NEIMAN’S FIELD NARROWS/3 BOOMERS’ FASHION DIVIDEND/10 WWDWomen’s Wear DailyWEDNESDAY • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 23, 2005 • $2.00 Sportswear Texture Messaging NEW YORK — Upholstery fabrics have their day in the sun as stylish, embellished looks turn up in rich, textured brocades and lush velvets. Here, Nanette Lepore’s haute bohemian acrylic, cotton, polyamide and polyester coat, silk and metallic blouse and rayon and silk skirt. Patricia Makena necklace. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

From Boho to Beading: India Draws Designers With Exotic Inspirations By Rusty Williamson E JESUS ritish fashion designer Matthew ANK D Williamson has traveled to India B36 times in the last 10 years and is eager to return. His fascination with the country is shared by , Monique Y STAYC ST. ONGE; STYLED BY FR ONGE; STYLED BY ST. Y STAYC Lhuillier, Etro, Roberto Cavalli, Gucci and Tracy Reese, among others, who have embraced colorful and embellished Indian style. This is expressed in the gypsy and bohemian looks; beaded,

ABIANA/WOMEN; HAIR AND MAKEUP B mirrored and metallic trims; embroidery; spicy colors, and tie-dye and ikat prints found in numerous collections. See Beyond, Page8 T ABC CARPET AND HOME; : F PHOTOGRAPHED BY CENTENO A TALAYA 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 WWD.COM Li & Fung Sets Sights on $10B by ’07 WWDWEDNESDAY By Scott Malone of them in the market,” he said. Sportswear He also noted that Li & Fung NEW YORK — Looking to extend recently took over the apparel their lead as the world’s largest sourcing operations of Mervyn’s GENERAL MAINSTREAM: Designers are taking inspiration from India, reflected in apparel sourcing company, Li & and Marc Ecko Enterprises. beaded and metallic trim, embroidery, spicy colors and tie-dye prints. Fung Ltd. executives have set an Li & Fung officials acknowl- 1 ambitious goal — to become a edged they hadn’t hit all the tar- Executives at sourcing powerhouse Li & Fung Ltd. have set an ambitious goal $10 billion firm by 2007. gets set in their last three-year 2 for the next three years: to become a $10 billion firm by the end of 2007. That would be a significant plan, which had called for 15 Nearly a week after the Neiman Marcus Group put itself on the selling jump from the $6.06 billion in percent compound annual sales 3 block, the field of potential buyers appears to be tightening. revenue for the fiscal year ended growth from 2002 through 2004. Dec. 31, a 10.6 percent gain from The actual growth rate for that SUZY: The Island of Marlon Brando…The Houston Grand Opera turns $5.47 billion a year earlier. Net period came to 13 percent. 4 50…Rachel Hunter: $70 million sets Rod free…Jerry Hall’s lullaby. income in the year was $196.5 However, Fung noted that mar- Fashion designers are drawn to the softness of velvet for fall, cutting it into million, up 25.1 percent from gin growth outpaced sales 6 everything from flowing dresses and skirts to romantic jackets. $157 million in 2003. (Figures are growth over that time. converted from Hong Kong dol- “While our top-line growth Classified Advertisements ...... 15-19 lars at the average exchange rate was not as spectacular as we had To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is for the periods.) hoped, it’s still in the double- [email protected], using the individual’s name. Li & Fung officials said they digit region, and in the face of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 aren’t counting solely on acquir- some severe price deflation, FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ing companies as the way to what we have done is manage VOLUME 189, NO. 61. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one drive growth, and as a sign of our expenses very well,” he said. additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL that plan to pay a $205.8 million Fung added that the company OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., dividend to shareholders. Our feeling at intended to continue to boost Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill “For a long time now, Li & margins by adding services, Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, “ Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- Fung has been a cash-rich com- this moment is such as design and logistics, and President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at pany, and to some extent we’ve by increasing its sale of licensed additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. been criticized for not having an that we probably branded products. In addition to POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR efficient balance sheet,” group Levi Strauss Signature tops and SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR are sitting on too DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is managing director William Fung Levi’s Red Tab men’s tops, Li & required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new said during a Tuesday news con- Fung sells licensed products subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production ference in Hong Kong that was much cash. under the Disney and Cannon correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild broadcast on the Internet. “We — William Fung,” Li & Fung brands. The firm projected its magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully were thinking maybe we were branded products revenues screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive waiting for a big acquisition. would reach $1 billion by 2007. these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED Our feeling at this moment is Zeeking. Bruce Rockowitz, Li & The company noted that dur- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND that we probably are sitting on Fung’s president and chief ex- ing the last three years it re- TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED too much cash.” ecutive officer, said the firm has duced its dependence on the TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE After the payout, the firm signed a memorandum of un- U.S., which represented 68 per- ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. will retain a $100 million war derstanding to acquire another cent of sales in 2004, down from chest, which Fung described as U.S. licensed apparel maker, 73 percent in 2002, and on soft “adequate to fund a very aggres- which he declined to identify goods, to 67 percent from 72 per- sive acquisition strategy.” since the deal has not been cent. Over that time, it grew its In recent months, Li & Fung completed. sales to Mexico and Canada, In Brief has acquired U.S. knitwear “We’ve set up a fantastic ma- and also increased its offering maker Ralsey, as well as chine to acquire medium and of hard goods, such as toys and ● GOODY’S DECLINE: Shares of Goody’s Family Clothing Inc. European suppliers BMB and small companies, and there’s a lot home decor items. fell 17.3 percent in Nasdaq trading Tuesday after the company said first-quarter earnings would be “significantly lower” than the 24 cents a share in last year’s comparable period. Robert Goodfriend, chairman and chief executive officer, said a variety of ills, including cold, wet weather and soaring gas prices, com- U.S.-Made Apparel Prices Dip in Feb. bined with an early Easter forced the firm “to be more promo- tional in an effort to stimulate sluggish sales.” The announce- By Kristi Ellis economy. The Federal Reserve Board, monitoring ment, made late Monday, touched off selling Tuesday that re- signs of inflation, raised the federal funds rate — duced the price of a share of Goody’s by $1.89 to $9.05. Goody’s WASHINGTON — Wholesale prices for U.S.-pro- the interest that banks charge each other — by a first quarter concludes at the end of April. duced women’s and girls’ apparel fell 0.1 in quarter point to 2.75 percent. February, but were up 0.9 percent compared with Stocks and bonds fell on the interest rate news ● HUMAN FACTOR: François-Henri Pinault, a day after taking a year ago, according to the Labor Department and word from the Fed that inflation had picked over as chief executive officer of PPR from Serge Weinberg, on Producer Price Index released Tuesday. Tuesday named Alain Luchez senior vice president of human re- Producer prices for all apparel were flat in sources of the French luxury and retail conglomerate. Luchez, February against January, but increased 0.6 per- Apparel prices are who will also become a member of PPR’s executive committee, cent versus a year ago. “ succeeds François Potier, who is leaving. Luchez, 52, was previ- “Apparel prices are falling or flat despite rising falling or flat despite rising ously senior vice president of human resources at PPR’s energy costs,” said Charles McMillion, president Redcat’s mail-order division. and chief economist of MBG Information energy costs. Services. “The reason that producers have very ” ● SAFEGUARD STAY: The U.S. Court of Appeals for the Federal little pricing power is because of increased pres- — Charles McMillion, Circuit has deferred until May consideration of the U.S. govern- sure from underpriced imports, particularly from MBG Information Services ment’s motion to stay a preliminary injunction that has suspend- China, and weakened demand growth.” ed its review of China safeguard petitions for more than two McMillion said rising prices for oil and other ma- months. The court is to hear oral arguments in the case at that terials boosted producer prices for synthetic fibers, up. The Dow Jones industrial average fell 95 time. The deferral was the latest development in a legal battle which rose 0.7 percent in February after going up 0.3 points, or 0.9 percent, to close at 10,471. The between importers opposed to safeguard quotas and challenging percent in January. By contrast, raw cotton prices Nasdaq dropped 18.17 to close at 1989. federal authority to impose them and the federal government. It were 28.1 percent lower in February than a year ear- Among the apparel categories showing signifi- is another disappointment for a coalition of domestic textile and lier and 0.1 percent lower for the month, he said. cant wholesale price changes in the month were fiber producers and organized labor that had hoped the appeals Wholesale prices for all finished goods rose 0.4 shirts and blouses, which fell 0.2 percent in the court would overturn the injunction and allow 12 threat-based percent in February, driven by food and energy month and year-over-year, and outerwear and petitions targeting $1.9 billion in Chinese apparel and textile ex- price increases, and after a 0.3 percent increase sweaters, which dipped 0.1 percent last month, ports to move forward. in January. Stripping out volatile food and energy but were 8.6 percent higher than February 2004. prices, the overall core rate in the PPI rose a Producer prices for underwear fell 0.2 percent modest 0.1 percent. last month and rose 0.5 percent against a year ago, “I expected a larger gain in the overall index,” while prices for nightwear were flat in February said Carl Steidtmann, chief economist at Deloitte and were up 0.2 percent year-over-year. Wholesale Research. prices for bras fell 0.1 percent and increased 2.1 Corrections “There are some inflation concerns,” he said, percent against a year ago. Richard Kestenbaum is a partner at Triangle Capital. His affilia- noting the year-over-year change in finished goods In another category tracked by the Labor tion was misstated in a story on page one, March 17. was up 4.7 percent. “Very clearly, we have seen a Department, wholesale prices for apparel made ● pickup in producer price inflation. A lot of that is in knitting mills fell 0.4 percent in February but Gwen Manto is executive vice president and general merchan- energy related.” were up 0.5 percent against a year ago. Prices for dise manager at Sears, Roebuck & Co. The company was misstat- The PPI, which has been creeping up in the knit shirts were flat and were up 5.3 percent year- ed in a story on page one, March 15. past year, is an early measure of inflation in the over-year. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 3 WWD.COM Quiksilver Shares Fall Neiman’s Reality Check

On Rossignol Purchase By Sharon Edelson she said. “They own Kate Spade and Laura Mercier, which they haven’t really focused on too By Melanie Kletter NEW YORK — Almost a week after the Neiman much. There’s potential there.” Marcus Group put itself on the selling block, the Others, however, see Kate Spade and Laura NEW YORK — Shares of Quiksilver Inc. tumbled more than 10 field of potential buyers appears to be tightening. Mercier being sold. percent Tuesday on the New York Stock Exchange after the surf Excitement over the announcement that the “Neiman executives feel they could pull out a apparel company confirmed it would acquire Rossignol Group upscale retailer — a prize for any high-end player product category or come up with a whole new con- SA, the ski and snowboard manufacturer. — is seeking a strategic investor or outright buyer cept,” said a department store official, noting that the The stock, which dropped $3.46 to close at $29.74, got hit has given way to the reality that the company will company is already working on several ideas. because Quiksilver is taking a gamble in the ski arena, where command a high selling price. Plus, some analysts Neiman’s tried to branch out in 1997 with gift and growth has slowed in recent years, analysts and industry execu- see significant growth in the U.S. as a serious chal- jewelry stores, but the shops weren’t successful. tives said. lenge. The firm has been val- Weinswig said the timing wasn’t Overall sales at specialty ski and snowboard shops fell 6.6 per- ued at between $4 billion and right and Neiman’s could try cent in unit terms and 2 percent in dollar terms to $1.37 billion $5 billion. again. “There’s always room to for the period of August to January, according to the SnowSports “Neiman Marcus will be a expand in the home market,” Industries America trade firm. difficult transaction,” said she said. “The single greatest challenge for Quiksilver management will Walter Loeb, retail consultant While U.S. retailers haven’t be the volatility and seasonality of the global ski and snowboard at the firm that bears his fared well abroad, Neiman’s, hardlines business,” Jeffrey Klinefelter of Piper Jaffray & Co. name. “There are very few which considered opening wrote in a research note. “The ski and snowboard hardlines busi- people who appreciate the full stores in , and ness has been growing slowly over the last few years, and at this value of the company. Its stan- Tokyo, could travel to Asia and point, we have no visibility for the trend to change.” dards are unique.” avoid competing with its Klinefelter said another challenge will be managing the sig- LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis resources on their home turf nificant exposure the combined entity will face with respect to Vuitton and Galeries Lafayette in Europe. the euro and other currencies. have been mentioned as possi- But there’s still work to be Robert B. McKnight Jr., Quiksilver’s chairman, attributed the ble bidders. In recent days, done here. “Neiman’s is not get- share slide to hesitation about the pace of growth in the ski indus- PPR has also been mentioned, ting as much as it could from try. He said he has confidence in the Rossignol business. although new chief executive the existing customer base,” “Rossignol has been around for 100 years and we see it as a officer François-Henri Pinault Weinswig explained. “Neiman’s long-term opportunity,” he said in an interview. denied any interest in making a does $550 a square foot in sales. The acquisition has been expected and came to fruition play for Neiman’s. Costco does $800. They want to Tuesday when the Huntington, Calif.-based firm said it would “Galeries Lafayette doesn’t reach out to customers that buy the French ski seem to make much sense,” spend $3,000 to $10,000 a year A look from the giant for $320 million in said Richard Perks, director of and hook them up with person- new collection cash and stock. retail research at Mintel, a U.K. al shoppers to get them to by Pucci and McKnight said the consulting firm, of the French Neiman’s is guaranteed to fetch a high price. spend more money.” Rossignol. move is the next step in retailer. “Neiman Marcus is Katherine Galligan, a Quiksilver’s evolution absolutely premium. Galeries is at the upper end of retail analyst for Aperion Group LLC, has a more as an outdoor sports the mass market. PPR itself is big enough.” skeptical view. “I don’t consider it a good invest- lifestyle company. Deborah Weinswig, a retail analyst at Citigroup ment,” she contended. “The company that buys “We see a lot of Global Markets, believes the buyer will be a con- Neiman Marcus would buy it because they really growth for Rossignol in sortium like Kohlberg Kravis Roberts & Co., Bain needed it.” other categories, and Capital and Vornado Realty Trust, which recently Galligan was hard-pressed to name such a com- the price was right,” purchased Toys ‘R’ Us. pany. She dismissed Federated Department Stores, McKnight said. Touk Sinantha, research analyst at Ariel which recently purchased May Co. for $17 billion, Quiksilver plans to Capital Management LLC, which holds about 5.7 saying it has “too much on its plate to digest.” Saks build up the soft-goods million shares, is looking for growth from Fifth Avenue Enterprises is busy launching initia- arena for Rossignol, sig- Neiman’s and believes a buyer could improve tives to rev up its performance. Meanwhile, nificantly increase its expenses and top-line performance. Nordstrom is not experienced in Neiman Marcus’ men’s and women’s out- “Management is exploring a smaller-sized box,” level of luxury, Galligan said. erwear business and eventually introduce technical mountain- wear with some of the other Rossignol brands. Brian Rowe, partner CEO Says Bulgari Retail Prices May Rise and managing director of investment bank By Amanda Kaiser of revenue growth. Sage Group, said, A lower tax rate and a tax refund of 2.8 million “Rossignol is a hard- MILAN — Bulgari reported a 17.6 percent jump in euros, or $3.5 million, also boosted Bulgari’s bot- goods brand heavily 2004 net profit as chief executive officer Francesco tom line. The tax rate for 2004 dropped to 10.5 winter-focused and Trapani warned that a strong euro would force the percent of pretax earnings from 15.4 percent a Quiksilver is a summer- jeweler to boost retail pricing. year earlier. focused soft-goods Net profit for the 12 months ended Dec. 31 rose Operating costs, excluding advertising and pro- label. The acquisition almost 18 percent to 108.3 million euros, or $134.3 motion expenses, advanced 7.4 percent to 297.2 will also give Rossignol million, from 92.1 million euros, or $104.1 million, million euros, or $368.5 million. Promotion and an injection of youthful- the year before. Full-year revenue, released in advertising expenses grew 19.5 percent to 96.4 ness and vibrancy.” January, grew 9 percent to 827.7 million euros, or million euros, or $119.5 million, as Bulgari Quiksilver, which $1.03 billion. Bulgari said sales gained 12.1 per- launched new products such as the Astrale jewel- had revenues of $1.27 billion last year, owns the Roxy junior cent, stripping out the negative effects of currency ry line, the Ergon watch collection and the Blu brand and 12 other labels and has been rapidly opening stores. exchange rates. Notte fragrance. Last year, it bought DC Shoes, a maker of skateboarding footwear Dollar figures are converted from the euro at Non-operating costs, including financial and apparel. the average exchange rates for the period to charges, losses on exchange rates and start-up Rossignol, based in Voiron, France, had sales of about $625 which they refer. expenses for the Hotel Bulgari project, grew 64.5 million in 2004. It owns the winter sports brands Dynastar, Lange Trapani told WWD that he is optimistic about percent to 13 million euros, or $16.1 million. and Look, as well as the Cleveland Golf label. The division will 2005. He said that barring any extraordinary mar- Sales figures, in line with preliminary numbers stay based in Voiron, McKnight said. Rossignol was founded in ket developments, full-year sales will grow 10 to 12 released earlier this year, showed double-digit jumps 1907 and for the last 50 years has been under the direction of its percent at constant exchange rates and profit will for the Americas and Japan and slower growth in current chairman, Laurent Boix-Vives, who has built the group increase at an even higher rate. Italy and the rest of Europe on weak tourist flows. through acquisitions and new ski technologies. “The figures we have from the first months of In particular, sales in the Americas gained 12.9 Boix-Vives will continue to have a “key advisory role” with the year are very encouraging,’’ Trapani said. percent to 122.8 million euros, or $152.3 million, Quiksilver and Cleveland Golf. The Boix-Vives family, which The ceo also said Bulgari will have to lift retail while those in Japan grew 24.1 percent to 206.5 mil- owns an estimated 45 percent of Rossignol and holds 63 percent prices in the U.S. and Japan over the next few lion euros, or $256.1 million. Revenue from Italy of its voting rights, will retain a portion of its direct ownership, weeks to protect margins from a strong euro to dol- advanced 3 percent to 108.7 million euros, or $134.8 about 35 percent, in Cleveland Gold, for at least 4 1/2 years. Boix- lar and yen exchange. He estimated retail prices million, and was flat from the rest of Europe at 189.6 Vive’s majority holding will be paid 70 percent in cash and 30 per- would go up 3 to 4 percent globally to account for million euros, or $235.1 million. cent in Quiksilver shares, and minority shareholders will be price boosts in those two markets. Sales in the Far East, excluding Japan, rose 2.7 bought out at 19 euros ($25.50) a share, for 100 percent in cash, Operating profit advanced 14.8 percent to 134.2 percent to 146.5 million euros, or $181.7 million, Quiksilver said. million euros, or $166.41 million. Bulgari said it while those in the Middle East and other countries — With contributions from Emilie Marsh, Paris managed to protect margins because most costs grew 15.7 percent to 53.6 million euros, or $66.5 increased at proportionally lower rates than that million. 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 WWD.COM The Island of Marlon Brando ● Back in Bloom ● Not Exactly Jerry Herman

hearts out in concert. There will be a dinner and dancing in the grand foyer after the music. ● As for Elton John, he, Sting and Victoria and David Beckham are talking about starting a chain of boutique hotels. They already have their eyes on a nine- bedroom, $8 million beach house in a small village on the coast of South Africa. The three-story mansion has floor-to- ceiling windows and sweeping ocean views, perfect for a romantic getaway. Or so Elton John, Sting and Victoria and David Beckham hope. ● Sandra Bullock will reunite with Keanu Reeves, her co-star in her 1994 breakaway film, “Speed.” In their new flick, “Il Mare,” they will play lovers who meet at a mailbox. How absolutely twee. Costarring will be such superb actors as Jeremy Irons and Christopher Plummer. After that’s all done, Keanu will play a cop in the Spike Lee movie “The Nightwatchman,” and then he will follow in the illustrious footsteps of Douglas Fairbanks Jr. and Gene Kelly playing Sinbad, the sailor of song and story. He will be surrounded on his search for Aladdin’s lamp by beautiful enchantresses and mythical beings with magical powers along the way. I can wait if you can. John Travolta got an early introduction to the world of fashion and glamour. Blame it on his mummy. He says, “My mother would buy secondhand clothes. She said, ‘I can put my son in a Christian suit for $10 at the Church of Atonement. If I buy it brand new, that would be $300. Or I could buy a really cheap suit for $20 that will fall apart.’ All my clothes were beautiful because they were wealthy people’s hand- me-downs. My mother was a Lynn smart woman.” Yes she was Wyatt and it rubbed off on her son. ● Rachel Hunter wants $70 million to set Rod Stewart free so that he can make an honest woman of Penny Lancaster. This may explain why Rod, who keeps his money as close as he keeps Penny, has never gotten around to ridding himself of Rachel. Along those lines, Jude Suzy Sandra Bullock Law has replaced his divorce By Aileen Mehle lawyers because he’s upset that the proceedings are Marlon Brando’s dream of building a dragging out so long and resort on his precious Tahitian atoll of Kate Sadie Frost,the mother of Te tiaroa, uninhabited except for his 42- Bosworth his four children, might well eye® year-old son, Te i hotu, is about to come end up with a settlement true nine months after his death. The worth at least $20 million. Jude wants to set a date for pristine paradise with a crystal clear lagoon encircled by his wedding to Sienna Miller and he’d like it to take 13 tiny islets and a flourishing ecosystem that includes place before the end of the year. a sea turtle breeding ground and a designated bird ● sanctuary will become the home of 30 environmentally You will be thrilled to hear that Orlando Bloom and friendly villas. Brando fell in love with Tetiaroa and Kate Bosworth are together again after putting their bought it while filming “Mutiny on the Bounty” in the two-year romance on hold last January. The exact Sixties. The 13 cottages he built then have fallen into reason for the hiatus was unclear but it seemed to come disrepair. Marlon had been planning the project for the right on the heels of the release of some photos of last three years and — surprise to no one — the hotel Orlando dancing with a young blonde at the Dubai compound with be dubbed The Brando. The villas will International Film Festival. be nearly invisible from the water and the rest of the ● atoll will be set aside as a private nature preserve. This Although Jerry Hall has not written her project is scheduled to open in 2008 and Marlon’s family autobiography yet, she has written, sung and recorded a says it will be done exactly the way he wanted it. song called “Around This Table,” which is said to refer ● to the dining table at her home in England that she Big how-dee-do, superbig how-dee-do when the shared with . The lyrics include such Houston Grand Opera celebrates its 50th anniversary, adoring sentiments as “We make love on it/Our children the Golden Jubilee Gala, on April 30 in the Wortham scratch their names beneath/The fire lights our Theater Center. It has to be a pretty fancy party to live passion/And the wine has numbed our grief. You bring up to its invitation, which is an opulent thing of gold other women/While I’m out of town/And I can always ribbon, gold tassels and a lot of golden names taking see/When a stranger has sat down.” So pretty, so poetic. part. Lynn Wyatt, perhaps Houston’s most well known Jerry performed for a radio station in Austin, Tex., over and certainly most prolific hostess and socialite, is a big, the weekend. Move over, Stephen Sondheim. beautiful chairman and the honorary committee is just ● chock-full of such big shots as Nancy Reagan, Jesse I just love it when movie celebrities share their Norman, Barry Diller and Diane von Furstenberg,the opinions with the rest of us. Ashton Kutcher has been Duchess of York, Elton John, Roger Moore, Renee following his sweetie Demi Moore’s lead, getting Fleming, Carolina and Reinaldo Herrera, Prince Albert of himself in peak physical shape. The dear boy says, “We Monaco, ,theBritish Ambassador went to see ‘Troy’ and I’m sitting there and it’s just me Christopher and Lady Meyer and Houston’s mayor, Bill and Demi and a friend of hers. I think we’re going to see White. The Board of Governors and the Board of an action movie when actually we’re going to see a Tr ustees of the Houston Grand Opera are also hosting movie where is naked most of the time. And the gala. There will be all sorts of entertainment with Demi and her friend are making noises every time like, such artists as Renee Fleming, Elton John, Frederica ‘Ooh!’ and ‘Ahh!’ and I’m like, ‘Baby I’m right here!’ So I von Stade, Bryn Terfel and Denyce Graves singing their went out and hired Brad Pitt’s trainer.” Now, that’s love. BULLOCK PHOTO BY TITO ANTONIO/WIRE IMAGE; BOSWORTH BY JIM SMEAL/BE IMAGES BY TITO ANTONIO/WIRE IMAGE; BOSWORTH PHOTO BY BULLOCK WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 5 WWD.COM Anderson Takes on Role in AIDS Battle NEW YORK — Pamela Anderson up this month with the Humane addition, Urban Decay has the phrase: “We don’t do animal Saturday with the Genesis has a new gig: the latest spokes- Society of the United States to pledged to donate a minimum of testing. How could anyone?” Awards, an annual event hosted woman for the MAC AIDS Fund. launch a campaign in support of $25,000 to the organization. Zomnir, who has an 11-year-old by the Humane Society to raise The well-endowed “Bay- animal rights, called “How Wende Zomnir, co-founder black Labrador named Marley, awareness about animal issues. watch” actress will join four Could Anyone?” and creative director of the added, “We have always been The awards show pays tribute to other spokeswomen named last very into the whole animal major news and entertainment year — Missy Elliott, Christina The 11-year-old MAC AIDS Fund rights piece. We looked at a lot media for producing outstand- Aguilera, Chloë Sevigny and of different organizations, but ing animal rights-focused works Linda Evangelista. A fifth mem- is said to have raised more than [the Humane Society] has the in television, film, print and the ber of the team named last best ability to market our cause arts. This year’s show, which spring, Boy George, will become $40 million to date. and bring it to the forefront.” will air in May on the Animal an “honorary spokesperson” for Celebrities Nicole Richie Planet channel, will feature the fund, said a spokeswoman. One hundred percent of sales brand, noted that the “How and Brooke Burke have signed celebrity presenters such as John Demsey, MAC Cosmetics of a $2 purple rubber bracelet Could Anyone?” phrase is in- on to help promote the purple Alicia Silverstone and Bill president and MAC AIDS Fund featuring that phrase will be do- spired by Urban Decay’s origi- bracelet as spokesmodels. The Maher. chairman, is expected to hold a nated to the Humane Society. In nal packaging, which featured campaign kicked off last — Bryn Kenny BEAUTY BEAT

Pamela Anderson press conference next week to make the Anderson announce- ment. The 11-year-old MAC AIDS Fund is said to have raised more than $40 million to date. The money finances nonprofit Est. ’01 HIV/AIDS organizations and programs in a variety of ways —including paying for food, clothing or shelter, as well as funding services related to *May 2-4, 2005 health care and HIV/AIDS edu- cational efforts. Its chief fund- Javits Center, Manhattan raising vehicle, since its incep- tion in 1994, has been MAC’s Viva Glam lipsticks and Lipglasses. 700+ Lines of Anderson is currently Immediate Fall/Winter 2005 fronting lingerie (of course), contemporary, juniors’, jeans RTW and Accessories and accessories lines, and has Mon-Tue 9-6, Wed 9-5 also written a novelette called “Star.” She is also currently buyer: 800-358-7768 filming a new Fox-TV series, exhibiting: 877-907-3263 “Stacked.” The descriptively www.fameshows.com named series, also starring Christopher Lloyd and Tom Everett Scott, is expected to In May our show dates have to run Monday-Wednesday. NYC is hosting a citywide event, POW WOW, over market week and the premiere in April. *Javits Center has to accommodate them. POW WOW promotes tourism travel and rotates across the country. In May 2005, POW — Julie Naughton WOW is coming to NYC to help regain the city's tourism trade, and is endorsed by Mayor Bloomberg. We apologize for the inconvenience, and assure you that FAME is worth the trip! Urban Decay’s Fight Goes On NEW YORK — Offbeat cosmetics brand Urban Decay, long known FAME is a property of Business Journals, Inc. for its stance against animal testing in cosmetics, has teamed 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 Velvet

GoldmineNEW YORK — With its soft pile, velvet has always been a favorite fabric of bohemians. For fall, fashion designers are drawn to the material, too, and they’re cutting it into exotic looks, from flowing dresses and skirts to romantic jackets.

Calvin Klein’s rayon and silk jacket and Nanette Lepore’s wool, polyamide and polyacrylic skirt; Sanimi’s silk jacket and ’s silk skirt. Cynthia Rowley boots. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 7 WWD.COM

Cynthia Steffe’s silk top Alvin Valley’s silk burnout dress worn with Beverly and and Nanette Lepore’s acetate and Monika’s silk burnout rayon vest. Draugsvold earrings. dress. Delman Shoes.

Mint’s rayon and silk jacket and silk chiffon skirt and Black Halo’s silk and rayon burnout top and skirt. Draugsvold necklace. STYLED BY FRANK DE JESUS FRANK STYLED BY

A;

BCBG Max Azria’s silk cape and Le Full’s silk chiffon top and skirt. Draugsvold headband. Delman shoes. PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO; MODELS: FABIANA AND ROBERTA/WOMEN; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY STAYC ST. ONGE; FASHION ASSISTANT: JULIE SOLOVYEV ASSISTANT: ONGE; FASHION ST. PHOTOS STAYC HAIR AND MAKEUP BY AND ROBERTA/WOMEN; BY CENTENO; MODELS: FABIANA TALAYA 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005

In the Mainstream Beyond Beads and Bollywo

Former Aishwarya Rai is considered the reigning queen of Indian cinema.

Designer Matthew Williamson makes frequent trips to India. PHOTO COURTESY OF MIRAMAX FILMS OF MIRAMAX PHOTO COURTESY

Continued from page one ice infrastructure, widespread poverty and rising HIV rates. Indian-inspired fashions are proving to be salable at retail and a reason to buy for The end of international apparel and textile quotas has created a new realm of many women bored with basics. Retailers from Target to Henri Bendel have opened fashion business possibilities for India, which is expected to increase its share of the in-store shops devoted to India and its kaleidoscope of offerings. $248 billion global fashion market to 6.5 percent by 2008 from 4 percent this year, ac- “India is a creative assault on the senses: The colors, the people, the land, the culture cording to the Fashion Design Council of India, which will stage its fall fashion shows and the unique crafts and arts, from beading to Bollywood, are all incredibly alluring to April 20-26 in New Delhi during Lakme Fashion Week. me,” said Williamson, who produces part of his collections at Indian factories. “I fell in The event will include 40 shows, 70 exhibition stalls and an interactive panel dis- love with India when I was 18. The incredible range of great things found in India lend cussion. Designers will show collections in categories such as Indian, Indo-Western themselves to much positive interpretation and are having a big influence on the worlds and Western. Fashion week draws international buyers and is getting more media at- of fashion and the arts right now. And, in many ways, I think it’s only the beginning.” tention. This year’s visitors are anticipated to include and Williamson’s sophisticated collections are often exotically embellished and opu- Donatella Versace, who is to award the winner of a design reality show an internship lently colored as homages to India, renowned for its textiles and handicrafts, burgeon- with Versace in Milan, according to the FDCI. ing fashion and home furnishings, as well as the megawatt film industry Bollywood. “India is on a roll, and there’s no turning back,’’ said Arnold Aronson, managing di- In January, Target Corp. rolled out a new merchandising concept to all its stores rector of retail strategies at Kurt Salmon Associates, who recently returned from a for six weeks called Global Bazaar, with decorative accessories and furniture from trip there. “India is second only to China in terms of its strength as a production and India and Asia, Latin America, Africa and Europe. The Indian presentation featured export giant, but India has unique strengths that China doesn’t have: the handiwork items evoking India’s British Colonial past and more exotically inspired crafts and of its artisans and craftsmen and all the beautiful textiles. handiwork made by local artisans. “India is an important and growing source of exports to the U.S. and the world, but Jewelry designer John Hardy is based in Bali, but finds inspiration from India. He it also is poised to do more importing of American and global goods as the Indian shot his upcoming fall advertising campaign in the desert region of Rajastan, an area population gains wealth and becomes more and more concerned with status brands, known for its historic palaces, forts and colorful mirrored clothing. which we’re already seeing happen,’’ he said. “They’re going to want to spend money. “Interest in the exotic, colorful designs of India has traveled from Mumbai to Main Within the next five years, India is scheduled to construct at least 200 new shopping Street, U.S.A.,’’ said Cindy Morris, chief operating officer at the Market Center, centers in anticipation of its consumers’ demands for global merchandise.” parent of FashionCenterDallas and the new India Pavilion, a wholesale boutique Manufacturers who produce in India said they can’t get the same level of handiwork mart. “The popularity of Indian and Indian-influenced style is pervasive, from fash- in China, or anywhere else, but they concede that the turnaround time can be slow. ion to home and garden. We see retailers from small towns and large metropolitan “The whole Indian-fashion craze is just exploding now, not just in America but areas equally interested in these unique products.” throughout Europe and Asia,” said Sameer Ramani, vice president at New York- Among designers, Lhuillier said her fall 2005 collection of sparkling evening dress- based Contrepoint Industries, which produces moderate and better sportswear col- es was inspired by the private gemstone collection of an Indian maharani. lections, many of which have Indian inspiration. Ramani’s family owns fashion pro- “I was influenced by the exotic beauty and rich colors of Indian jewels, and the op- duction facilities. ulent way of dress and extravagant lifestyle of Indian royalty,” she said. “We have the “What you see coming out of India is what China can’t do — India has the edge majority of our beadwork and embroideries done in India. The craftsmanship is over China because of its wealth of artisans, craftsmen and beautiful textiles and beautiful. Their components are very interesting. The only downside is the eight- to prints that aren’t found anywhere else in the world,’’ Ramani said. “We’re seeing big 12-week turnaround time.” increases in our annual volume thanks in great part to the Indian trend. Designers who produce in India stress that it’s mandatory to have a quality control “The fashion microscope is on India and its influence on the style scene is defi- and quality assurance team onsite to monitor each step of production, but that overt nitely growing,’’ he said. “The styles and especially the embellishment, prints and col- mistakes aren’t common. They said slight or quirky variances in individually hand- ors are becoming staples and constantly revisited by designers. Look at the current crafted items with beading and embroidery are valued for their uniqueness rather rage for gypsy and bohemian chic and the silhouettes, such as long tunics and peasant than being machine-made and following a static prototype. dresses. It’s yet another reinvention of chic that goes back at least 40 years.” India’s cultural cavalcade of creative inspirations isn’t limited to fashion. Take a Adam Lippes, who owns the sportswear, T-shirt and innerwear business walk through any major shopping mall, surf the Internet, glance through a fashion Adam+Eve, based in New York, described Indian style as “cool, easy and sexy. It fits magazine or make a trip to an art movie house, and it’s clear that India is reaching right in with the concept of American sportswear being relaxed and highly wearable.” out to the world with assets that are waiting to be tapped. Lippes has much of his collection embellished in India, and he will start sewing The world’s second most populous nation, with 1.1 billion, India is successfully complete garments there in 2006. courting multinational businesses with cheap production and shipping costs, a “I learned a lot about the beauty of India handiwork and embellishment from plethora of indigenous crafts and people known for a strong work ethic and being Oscar de la Renta, where I was a creative director for a few years,’’ he said. “So customer friendly. when I launched my line a year ago, I knew I wanted to go there for the exquisite Still, even as more Indians enter the middle class, challenges and questions linger detailing. Now, thanks to the relaxed quota system, I think we will start actual pro- over profiting and prospering in post-quota India, which has an archaic public serv- duction there very soon.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 9 WWD.COM ood, India Inspires Fashion

Silk Threads, a Dallas-based dress and sportswear business that spe- An Indian-inspired fall look cializes in native Indian wedding dresses, sportswear and home furnish- from Monique Lhuillier. ings, is starting a line for fall with Western styling and Indian embellish- ment, said Ruby Bhandari, owner and designer. “We’re launching 30 styles of dresses, jackets, shirts and blouses with an exotic feel and lots of Indian detailing,’’ said Bhandari, who has been in business 14 years and also owns production factories in India. “Wholesale prices are $34 to $150. The ethnic-inspired look is becoming almost a classic fashion niche that’s not going to go away, but get stronger. So we’re combining the best of Indian embellishment with highly wearable Western styles.” Apparel sales in India are projected to hit $16 billion this year, accord- ing to the Fashion Design Council of India, with double-digit growth pro- jected for the foreseeable future because of the surge of international in- terest in Indian style and manufacturing, along with growth in volume at established Indian design firms. By comparison, U.S. women’s apparel sales were $95 billion last year, up 5 percent from $90 billion in 2003, according to The NPD Group, a market research company in Port Washington, N.Y. Total U.S. apparel sales in 2004 were $173 billion compared with $166 billion in 2003. “I produce my fashion line in India because it’s not affordable to do such handiwork in America,” said Charlie Brown, a multiline sales repre- sentative and also owner of the Karlie juniors’ and contemporary sports- wear line, based in Dallas. “India offers novelty and unusual detailing at a great price. You have to really pick and choose carefully the factories that you do business with and keep a close eye on production to make sure you get what you ordered, but I guess that’s the rule anywhere. “The turnaround time isn’t fast, either, so you have to do lots of advance planning,’’ he said. “Overall, the Indian population is extremely polite and great to do business with. And it’s just the place if you want embellished items, which everyone seems to be doing.” India’s infatuation with fashion, style and the media can be linked partly to the youthfulness of its population — the median age is 24.4 years. Media-savvy Indians can’t seem to get enough of MTV, fashion mag- azines and films. Bollywood, India’s film industry, has long captivated moviegoers with its formulaic plots that typically involve a love triangle that ends in a happy marriage and/or a broken heart. Dazzling song-and- dance segments are often metaphors for passion. For many Indians, Bollywood productions are a respite from personal troubles, a chance to dream of a better life and savor a hot potato samosa, spicy peanuts or mango ice cream — all for a few rupees. At least 25 per- cent of the Indian population lives at or below the poverty line and only about 60 percent of homes have electricity and running water. Still, India produces almost 1,000 movies a year. Each costs about $1.5 million and the industry annually sells almost 4 billion tickets, with gross revenues of about $2 billion. Hollywood produces about 800 movies annu- ally at a cost of about $47.7 million a film, selling 3 billion tickets that generate a $51 billion gross. But the Indian film industry is growing at a rate of 13 percent annually while Hollywood is gaining 6 percent. The av- erage ticket price at an Indian movie theater is about 70 cents compared with about $10 in the U.S. Significantly, Bollywood actresses are the style icons and have so much impact on Indian lifestyles that women often view movies before going

LHUILLIER AND DE LA RENTA PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY LHUILLIER AND DE LA RENTA shopping so that they can dress like their favorite star. Families routinely turn to Indian cinema, including a classic movie such as “Pakeezah” or a Oscar de The Indian flavor of newer blockbuster such as “Devdas,” before making a wedding sari pur- la Renta Contrepoint as chase so that the bride is certain to wear the latest trends. Indian wedding for fall. seen in the Boston saris are almost always red and heavily encrusted with gold, jewels, exotic Proper catalogue. beads and mirrors. Bollywood star Priyanka Chopra is credited with the rage for colorful Punjabi-style shalwars, which are long tunics worn over pants. In fact, according to the Fashion Design Council of India, Bollywood has more impact on apparel buying habits that any other source. It is is expected to inspire at least $4.5 billion in retail fashion sales during the next two years. Indians idolize stars such as leading men Shahrukh Khan, Hrithik Roshan and Amitabh Bachchan, and heroines Kareena Kapoor, Bipasha Basu and Aishwarya Rai, a former Miss World, who is considered the reigning queen of Indian cinema. Rai, who is trying to cross over to Hollywood with several English-language films in the works, stars in the current “Bride and Prejudice,” a Hindi-flavored, English-language ver- sion of the Jane Austen novel. She is also negotiating a production deal with Michael Douglas, the actor and producer, who announced in February that he’ll start producing movies in India in 2006, starting with “Racing the Monsoon,” the installment of an adventure trilogy preceded by “Romancing the Stone,” and “Jewel of the Nile.” Other producers have brought Indian-based or -flavored films to American screens with some commercial success, including “Monsoon Wedding,” “Lagaan,” “Bend it Like Beckham,” “A Touch of Pink,” “Bollywood Queen” and “Vanity Fair.” The musical “Bombay Dreams” ran on Broadway from last April to Jan. 1 and received Tony Award nominations for Best Costume Design and Best Orchestrations. And rock ’n’ roll diva Tina Turner is said to have agreed to star in a new Merchant-Ivory film called “The Goddess” to be filmed in India during the next year in which she will sing in Hindu and Sanskrit. “India is playing a huge role in entertainment, fashion and lifestyle,’’ said Contrepoint Industries’ Ramani. “It’s a revolutionary change.’’ 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 WWD.COM Marketing Mothers of Fashion Reinvention

By Valerie Seckler of $21.5 billion in 2003, according to the NPD Group, a research firm in Port Washington, N.Y. Those purchases NEW YORK — The fashion business soon may be on the accounted for 23.3 percent of the spending on women’s receiving end of a revitalizing shot in the arm from lead- apparel in 2004, which totaled $94.5 billion, and was off ing-edge Baby Boomers. slightly from the 23.9 percent share it represented a year The majority of Americans ages 40 to 58 do not plan to earlier, when spending on women’s apparel amounted to retire before age 70, according to the Merrill Lynch New $90.1 billion. Retirement Survey. Many Baby Boomers, or 42 percent, Perhaps the biggest single opportunity for apparel intend to cycle between work and leisure in the next stage marketers will fall in workwear, but those items are like- of their lives — from ages 50 through 70 — rather than ly to be more comfortable, with a more leisure flavor and entering a period of traditional retirement marked by better-quality fabrications than before, experts said. leisure and the end of work. Beemer predicted Boomer women ages 60 to 70 would More than three-quarters of the country’s largest gener- probably spend as much on apparel as they did when ation ever, or 62 million people, plan to do some work, while they were in their 50s. only 17 percent intend to never work again for pay. About 36 Sweet spots for apparel brands aiming at Boomers work- percent aim to work on a regular basis, whether in full- or ing later in life won’t be limited to job-related garb, howev- part-time roles, or starting businesses of their own. er. As that cohort continues to expand its range of activities The Merrill Lynch poll was based on responses from — from travel and education, to entertainment, exercise 3,488 adults, ages 40 to 58, and conducted by Harris Inter- and work in their communities — demand will climb for a ▲ Apparel players aiming at Baby Boomers may need to step up active and Ken Dychtwald, a psychologist and gerontologist broader range of fashion items, said Marian Salzman, a con- who specializes in the effects of aging on about 80 million targeted marketing to compete with luxury travel and high-end sumer insights specialist at J. Walter Thompson. Baby Boomers. The study done online and by phone from electronics. Here, an upcoming ad from Eileen Fisher and a “There will be more outputs in the closet as they work Feb. 5 to March 1, yielded a representative sample of Generations of Style ad from Brooks Bros. 40-hour rather than 60-hour weeks,” Salzman said. “Lives Boomers, including 1,100 who either have annual incomes are becoming more social for people at this stage. There’s of at least $100,000 or assets of at least $500,000. been a reinstitution of a cocktail hour at 6:30 or 7 p.m. The first-time finding of a generation’s desire to embark Projected Changes in Growth of This is a group that will be looking at clothes for cock- on a period of cyclical retirement will be a boon for the U.S. U.S. Population: 2000-2020 tails, clothes for yoga and clothes for work.” economy, said Dychtwald, who is president and chief exec- Brands already wading into these waters include Ralph utive officer of San Francisco-based consultant Age Wave. Lauren, Donna Karan, Stella McCartney for Adidas, Yohji “If Baby Boomers were to retire on the same day, it Age Group % Increase/Decrease in Population Yamamoto for Puma, Gap and Old Navy, marketing execu- would be a dark day for the world’s financial markets,” 65+ +54% tives said. “I expect Calvin Klein to start doing the same said Dychtwald, whose firm’s name refers to the genera- 55-64 +73% soon,” predicted David Shah, publisher of Dutch-based, tion’s sizable impact on American life and the consul- trend specialist View Publications. “This is a whole new 45-54 +3% tant’s efforts to promote a more positive concept of opportunity for the leisure brands to trade up and for aging. “But Baby Boomers will retire like a lava flow: 35-44 -10% designers to offer a different activewear, worn more as slow and gradual. And if Baby Boomers intend to keep 25-34 +7% sports leisurewear.” earning, as the study shows, then the contribution to the 15-24 +8% In addition, marketers anticipate burgeoning demand economy could be quite robust.” Under 14 +7% by maturing Boomer women for more form-fitting appar- One such contribution is starting to take shape in the el, rather than items marked by a looser fit that once generation’s emerging role as a catalyst for rejuvenating characterized Boomer-targeted brands like Chico’s and SOURCE: U.S. CENSUS, 2000 products and services, including well-fitting yet comfort- Eileen Fisher. able fashions; beauty items; foods, and treatments that ▲ In the next 15 years, the number of Americans ages 55 and older “Older shoppers become aware their clothes can de- help Boomers feel and appear youthful, Dychtwald said. is projected to grow nine times faster than those 34 and younger. fine their age,” pointed out Candace Corlett, a principal The apparel business appears poised to benefit from partner in WSL Strategic Retail and a specialist in the a significant lift because when a person retires their are increasingly focusing on how they can use their 40-plus consumer. clothing consumption typically drops by 40 to 45 percent, wealth to fund hopes and dreams; how those experi- In their next life stage, leading-edge Boomers, now said Britt Beemer, chairman of Charleston, S.C.-based ences will feel, and how they spend their time versus ages 50 and beyond, will be lured by fashion that marries America’s Research Group. By Beemer’s estimates, 70 their money, Dychtwald observed. form with function and is age appropriate without being percent of Baby Boomers, or 60 million people, will need The decision of Boomers to cycle between periods of dumb, said Jill Glover, president and executive creative to work until the age of 70 in order to maintain the stan- work and leisure may begin in their middle years, rather director at ad and branding agency Glover Group. dard of living to which they’ve grown accustomed. than north of age 60, the Merrill Lynch survey found. Such styles will likely be competing for Boomers’ dol- Dychtwald said 56 percent of Boomers ages 40 to 60 “Boomers sense they no longer have to prove themselves,” lars with a range of other temptations, particularly high- indicate they will reinvent themselves for new jobs. Dychtwald said. “They may pursue work that interests them end indulgences such as luxury vacations, second homes, “They are thinking about how to create the most youth- instead of the high-pressure jobs they’ve held. Today, the automobiles and consumer electronics. If the generation’s ful and current version of themselves to remain the most highest achievers retire later — a flip from 20 years ago.” consumption of high-ticket items continues into their relevant and contemporary in the workforce,” he noted. Thus the stage has been set, Dychtwald and other retirement years, Beemer noted, “It may deter apparel In fact, a worker shortage is anticipated over the next experts said, for new opportunities in American busi- from benefiting more.” five to 20 years because of the relatively small size of ness, including the apparel sector. Apparel players can Indeed, in 2004, the average age of a Porsche purchas- Generation X (ages 28 to 39), which numbers roughly 42 cater to a 55-and-up population whose ranks are project- er was 49, and the average age of a person buying a million, could create demand for Boomer employees in ed to expand nine times faster than those 34 and younger, Harley-Davidson was 51, Shah said, citing data from the their 60s and beyond, said Humphrey Taylor, chairman of in the next 15 years. During the Nineties, the number of Organization of Economic Cooperation and Development. the Harris Poll. Americans 50 and older surged by 12 million, while the As they approached age 60, Shah recounted, Boomers’ Paradoxically, these shifts are forecast as middle- number of 18- to 24-year-olds declined by nine million. parents largely stopped thinking about being serious con- aged Americans are generally less concerned than ever Consumers ages 50 and older purchased $22 billion sumers and started saving. about how much wealth they accumulate. Instead, they worth of women’s apparel last year, nearly flat with sales “Boomers will be spending,” he said.

The reasons include staying mentally active, cited by about 70 percent of women Boomer Mind-set: Open Says-a-Me and 67 percent of Boomers overall, and remaining physically active, named by about 60 percent of women and 57 percent of the broader group of 40- to 58-year- NEW YORK — An openness to new ideas is the trait that most Baby Boomers say de- olds studied by Merrill Lynch. Women in that age range are approximately seven scribes them. times more likely to share control of household finances as their counterparts in This is good news for apparel marketers who traditionally have faced consumers in- previous generations, with 33 percent doing so in 2004, compared with 5 percent in creasingly set in their attitudes — and fashion sensibilities — beginning in their mid-50s. 1962, according to the Gallup Poll. In fact, openness was a characteristic named by 99 percent of respondents to the Further, females in their middle years are seen placing a greater priority than Merrill Lynch New Retirement Survey, conducted by Harris Interactive and Ken men on work and self-worth between the ages 50 and 70, while their male contempo- Dychtwald, president and chief executive officer of San Francisco-based consultant raries are anticipated to focus more on their relationship with their life partner, Age Wave. It was followed by an inclination to put others first, cited by 98 percent; marking a reversal of traditional gender roles, the Merrill Lynch research revealed. family orientation, 97 percent; self confidence, 95 percent, and optimism, 91 percent. Activities Boomers are looking forward to a great deal include having more fun, “Historically, when people have retired they’ve tended to become more set in noted by 46 percent; traveling, 41 percent and simplifying life, 34 percent. their ways and more frugal as they become more anxious,” Dychtwald said while As for what the generation most fears, financial and health issues lead the way: presenting the study’s results this month. 36 percent said it was not being able to afford health care coverage; 33 percent, Boomers are evolving into a fusion mind-set marked by a youthful openness and going to a nursing home, and 32 percent, Social Security cutbacks or elimination. vitality, balanced by their experience and perspective. Consequently, much of the In contrast, 5 percent voiced a great deal of concern about becoming less con- generation plans to work till around age 70, for reasons that stretch beyond econom- nected with modern culture. ic need, a concern described as very important by 37 percent. —V.S. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 11 WWD.COM Analysts Wary on Saks Stock Upgrade By Vicki M. Young and would have difficulty meeting a larger department store’s return requirements.” NEW YORK — Wall Street analysts are gen- Dana Cohen, analyst at Banc of America erally impressed by strategic initiatives put Securities, maintained her “neutral” rating in place by the new Saks Fifth Avenue on Saks’ stock, noting, “There are clear signs team, but not quite enough to upgrade their of improvement, but upcoming changes ratings of the stock. could have rough spots. Furthermore, the Several pegged their unchanged rating to [SDSG] division faces challenges, not least the drag on Saks Inc.’s overall performance of all in reducing expense levels.” from the still-beleaguered Saks Department Her take on the changes is that there has Store Group as well as possible short-term been “some progress” in the strategy re- bumps arising from the SFA initiatives. garding service, marketing and presenta- SFA executives revealed the plans in a tion. However, there are also some bumps, conference call on Monday and pointed out such as the one involving excess inventory that the new focus zeroes in on upgrading that occurred in the fourth quarter. “We customer service, a move that also changed think new processes and systems have 16 general manager positions, eliminated 35 longer-term benefits, but could generate management posts and added 430 new sell- choppiness near to medium term.” ing positions to the chain. The rating of shares of Saks also was kept “We believe management has a solid plan “neutral” at Merrill Lynch. Keven Boler,

PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY in place, with a focus on personalized service, Merrill’s analyst, in a note on Tuesday point- From left: Tom Murry; Abbey Doneger; Marnie, Laura and John Pomerantz; Joyce new and unique brands and merchandise and ed to certain changes in the SFA strategy, Brown, and Gilbert Harrison beneath the Al Hirschfield caricature of John Pomerantz. younger, more energized marketing,” wrote such as a review on how to structure sales Robert Drbul, analyst at Lehman Brothers, in commissions to encourage associates to sell a research note on Tuesday. “As the luxury re- merchandise from more than one depart- Pomerantz Helps FIT Raise $89K tail market continues its strong growth, we be- ment, as well as the SFA focus on the 25- to lieve [SFA] should be pointed to deliver im- 34-year-old customer with a household in- NEW YORK — Writing a check is one thing, rousing friends and supporters proved results in 2005 and beyond.” come of more than $200,000. for a 7 a.m. breakfast is another. John Pomerantz managed to do both Among the highlights he pointed to from Yet the rating on Saks’ shares remained Tuesday for the Fashion Institute of Technology’s new Fashion the presentation and store tour of the Fifth unchanged because the SDSG division was Merchandising & Management Department. Avenue flagship were management’s evalua- “not expected to turn around in [the] near As guests lingered over coffee and mimosas, Pomerantz, chairman of tion of capital projects for the flagship — in- term.” He also noted that the SEC’s infor- FIT’s Educational Foundation for the Fashion Industries, reveled in his lat- cluding the possibility of opening up the in- mal investigation — earlier this month Saks est feat — headlining an event that raised $89,000 for the department. terior of the store, utilizing the basement Inc. said it would restate certain earnings Some of the money will be used for a creative presentation room that stu- levels and procuring the air rights above the periods because of accounting errors in dents will use to show their work in video, trend boards or other formats. building in order to add new levels — and leased departments and because it improp- “Right now we have a really sad runway, no sound system and two spot- the restructuring of management teams. He erly collected up to $21.5 million from ven- lights,” said Robin Sackin, chairwoman of the FMM department. also noted SFA’s shift in focus from “safe” to dors — could act as a cloud over the stock. The funds also will be used for scholarships. More than anything, the modern, with product that is unique and Deborah Weinswig at Citigroup Global department aims to enlighten students to the importance of the business consistent across price points. Markets reiterated her “sell” rating on the side of fashion, especially merchandising. Drbul maintained the firm’s “equal weight” stock. While she wrote, “We were encouraged “If you don’t understand business, it doesn’t matter how pretty your de- rating on the stock as well as its “neutral” rat- by the progress that has been made” at SFA, signs are,” Sackin said. ing on the sector. Lehman has three ratings: the analyst also pointed out that Saks Inc. has Pomerantz has been lending his business savvy to FIT for decades. overweight, equal weight and underweight. “not yet experienced improvement at SDSG. Standing beneath an oversized caricature Al Hirschfield drew of him According to Drbul, there are possibili- We believe the shares are fully valued at cur- when he produced Broadway shows, Pomerantz said he is committed to ties to create “shareholder value” that rent levels and we reiterate our sell rating.” the school partly because so many graduates get jobs in their respective would serve as downside protection to Saks’ Weinswig also wrote that the “long-term fields. With his 50th college reunion from the Wharton School at the stock at current levels. Those options in- viability of the company’s strategy and ini- University of Pennsylvania approaching, he understands that today’s grad- clude spinning off one segment to create two tiatives remain to be seen” as SFA contin- uates face different challenges and curriculum. distinct entities or selling one or both to a ues to operate in a highly competitive high- Tuesday’s event was in the building that the younger Pomerantz estab- strategic or financial buyer. The analyst also end retail environment. lished in the name of his father, Fred. concluded, “We do not believe SDSG would Shares of Saks closed at $15.56, down 31 Arnold Cohen, chairman of Mahoney Cohen; Abbey Doneger, president of be as attractive to a strategic buyer, mainly cents, in trading Tuesday on the New York the Doneger Group; Joyce Brown, president of FIT; Tom Murry, president because many of SDSG’s markets are small Stock Exchange. and chief operating officer of Calvin Klein Inc., and Gilbert Harrison, chair- man of Financo Inc. were among those honoring Pomerantz, who attended the event with his wife, Laura, principal of PBS Realty Advisors, and daugh- ter, Marnie. “I’m surprised so many people came,” he said. “I don’t have any customers, retailers or suppliers.” — Rosemary Feitelberg PEI Earnings Climb 59.4% for Year NEW YORK — Higher costs took the wind Revenues generated from sales increased out of fourth-quarter earnings for Perry 18.2 percent to $165.9 million from $140.3 Ellis International Inc., but surging sales million, while royalties shot up 21.8 percent lifted the company to double-digit gains for to $6.2 million from $5.1 million. the year. “The increase during the quarter was Tom Ford to Get SCAD Honor For the three months ended Jan. 31, the primarily attributable to our men’s wear Miami-based firm saw earnings retreat 3.2 business as well as an increase in royalty in- NEW YORK — Far from the European runways percent to $8.2 million, or 83 cents a diluted come,” George Pita, chief financial officer, where he made his mark, Tom Ford will be hon- share, compared with $8.5 million, or 93 said during the call. ored in Georgia’s first city at the Savannah cents, in the year-ago period. The earnings- “The Perry Ellis brand continues to per- College of Art and Design’s annual fashion show. per-share decline stemmed from the higher form well and experienced a strong quarter Uncharacteristically following in the foot- number of shares issued in a secondary driven by the sportswear collection, dress steps of Oscar de la Renta, Karl Lagerfeld and stock offering in May, the company said. shirts and dress pant sales,” Oscar Miuccia , Ford will receive the André Earnings for the year surged 59.4 percent Feldenkreis, president and chief operating Leon Talley Lifetime Achievement Award. He is to $21 million, or $2.15 a share, compared officer, said during the call. to pick up the prize on May 20 from its name- with $13.2 million, or $1.59 a share, in the The only segment that failed to perform sake Talley, Vogue’s editor at large and a mem- previous year. Total revenues advanced 29.8 well was swimwear, George Feldenkreis said. ber of the college’s board of trustees, and school percent to $656.6 million from $505.9 million. In the coming year, management is de- president Paula Wallace. Sales vaulted 30.9 percent to $633.8 million pending on new Perry Ellis denim offerings Tucked away in historic Savannah, the college from $484.2 million, while royalties gained 5 and the continued success of the Original is building a following with some of the more es- Tom percent to $22.8 million from $21.7 million. Penguin brand to fuel growth. tablished designers. Last year the school gave Ford “We remain focused on expense control “[Original Penguin] has received re- Diane von Furstenberg an honorary degree and and continue to improve the synergies related sounding support from the media, entertain- presented Zac Posen with the André Leon Talley New Look Award. to the Salant and now the Tropical acquisi- ment and celebrities as well as the retailers Ford’s own college career started with art history classes at New York tion,” George Feldenkreis, chairman and chief and consumers,” Oscar Feldenkreis said. University. He shifted gears to focus on architecture at Parsons School of executive officer, said during the company The company plans to introduce a premi- Design in New York, and while enrolled there studied in Paris. conference call. “We continue to invest in in- um line of Original Penguin men’s and Since his exit from the Gucci Group last year, Ford has kept a fairly low frastructure to drive down operational costs.” women’s denim this spring. Two additional profile. The college plans to let his fans log on to a live Webcast of the an- Total revenues for the fourth quarter Original Penguin stores are slated to open this nual fashion show. rose 18.4 percent to $172.1 million from year, bringing the total up to five locations. — R.F. $145.4 million in the year-ago period. —Ross Tucker 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 WWD.COM Metro Group Net Up — The Metro Group continued to grow Girlshop Gets Real earnings and sales in 2004, buoyed by expansion in Eastern Europe and the strength of its Metro Cash By Cate T. Corcoran & Carry, Media Markt, Saturn and Praktiker retail divisions. NEW YORK — Girlshop, an early Internet fashion Group net profit rose 10.7 percent to $1.16 boutique and one of the first retailers to turn a profit billion , or 933 million euros. Earnings before online, is opening its first real-world store today in interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization the Meatpacking District here. gained 13.9 percent to $3.70 billion, or 2.98 billion As on the Web site, it’s all about creative chic, with euros, and operative earnings before goodwill a focus on unknown designers and glam decor fash- amortization rose 13.8 percent to $2.24 billion, or ioned from eBay finds. 1.81 billion euros. Group sales increased 5.3 Girlshop president Todd Richter has wanted to percent to $69.94 billion, or 56.4 billion euros. open a boutique for years, and founder and chief German sales reached $35.71 billion, or 28.8 executive officer Laura Eisman first wanted to find billion euros. All dollar figures have been the right location. They think they’ve got it at 819 converted from the euro at average exchange for Washington Street, on a block filled with the sound of the year. hammering as several stores prepare to open across Metro, the world’s fifth-largest retail company, from what will be Andre Balazs’ The Standard hotel. is active in 30 markets, and foreign sales “We felt it was important to have a physical pres- accounted for 49 percent of its 2004 group sales, up ence, so customers can relate to a real live place,” from 47.2 percent in 2003. said Eisman, who launched the Web site in 1998 when Metro’s Kaufhof department store division Lands’ End was one of the few retailers selling appar- continued to feel the impact of price sensitivity el over the Internet. and consumer reluctance in Germany. Sales She said the store is likely to attract tourists from dipped 1.3 percent to $4.71 billion, or 3.8 billion the hotel, who can shop the Web site once they’re euros, while Kaufhof Warenhaus AG posted an home. Girlshop has a mailing list of 30,000 in the New EBITA decline to $69.6 million, or 56.1 million York area, and the site has a loyal following. The euros, versus $123.4 million, or 99.5 million euros, site’s unusual viewpoint and tone has spawned shop- in the year-ago period. Metro attributed the drop ping tours, a personal shopping service, designer to declining sales and one-time expenses for the sample sales in its corporate offices and a book called restructuring of the company’s headquarters and “The Girlshop Guide to NYC Shopping.” its portfolio of locations. “It’d be great to have our store in our fabulous “Kaufhof ’s key strategic goal for the current book, right?” Eisman laughed. fiscal year is to improve its earnings situation,” Eisman and Richter, who Metro said. are married, expect the store On the other hand, the division’s 15 Inno to do about $1 million the first department stores in Belgium grew sales by 3.2 year, or $900 a square foot. percent to $318.2 million, or 256.6 million euros. Girlshop Inc., which also Metro achieved its goal of raising earnings per includes sister sites Totshop Girlshop’s Todd Richter share by 6 to 10 percent. Before goodwill and Guyshop, pulled in $4.7 and Laura Eisman. amortization, earnings per share increased 7.7 million in 2004, up from $3.8 percent to $3.14, or 2.53 euros. million the year before, said Excluding one-time expenses for the Richter. Ironically, Girlshop’s The Girlshop space is dominated by a consolidation of the Extra supermarket inability to attract venture vintage Lucite chandelier found on eBay. locations portfolio, earnings per share went up capital during the boom years 10.4 percent. probably saved it from closing —Melissa Drier down, and it became prof- itable in 2000. The vintage The store’s merchandise pineapple and won’t be identical to the Web Mylar wallpaper site, but both focus on up-and- sets off a lilac hat. Dress Barn Net Falls coming designers. “It’s our duty” to find things under the radar, said Eisman, who added that she doesn’t believe On Acquisition in dictating trends. As on the Web site, most of the clothes will be sold on consignment. Prices will range NEW YORK — Dress Barn Inc.’s second-quarter from $80 for a T-shirt to $800 for a coat; prices on the earnings fell 66.1 percent as costs related to the Web site are lower, from $30 to $400. company’s recent acquisition of Maurices Inc. The store, which was filled on Tuesday with cut into profits. embellished tops and dresses and ornate jewelry For the three months ended Jan. 29, the com- from lines such as Kenneth Jay Lane, Plenty, Lotta pany earned $1.6 million, or 5 cents a diluted Stensson and Cigana, also carries a selection of men’s share, compared with $4.8 million, or 16 cents, in and children’s clothing. the year-earlier period. Dress Barn acquired the One of the areas in which the store distinguishes 470-store Maurices chain on Jan. 2 and earnings in itself is its approach to denim. Instead of carrying the quarter reflect the negative impact of $2.1 mil- every style of ubiquitous lines like Seven and Citizens lion for integration costs, the company said. of Humanity, buyer Candace Mohr, a veteran of Excluding acquisition-related costs, Dress Barn Patricia Field and Bond 07 by Selima, has picked a said it would have earned $3.7 million, or 12 cents. few key silhouettes, such as trousers, pegged and Total quarterly sales increased 17 percent to $200.1 cropped jeans styles from newcomers Nudie, Lowfli, million, while same-store sales were up 2 percent. Fins and Pam Capone. “We are particularly encouraged by the “Denim at this point I think is overwhelming,” strong early selling of our spring transitional said Eisman. “I can’t go to Barneys or Bloomingdale’s merchandise, which continued to strengthen because I feel overwhelmed by the selection. I feel into February for both Dress Barn and Maurices our job is to edit. I would like to present something stores,” Elliot S. Jaffe, chairman of Dress Barn, different.” said in the statement. He said the company is Lucite fixtures, vintage pineapple and silver Mylar “cautious” on the spring selling season because wallpaper from Secondhand Rose, mirrored tables, and of “the potential effect of an early Easter.” plenty of mix-and-match damask-patterned upholstered In the first six months of the fiscal year, Dress pieces lend the space a tongue-in-cheek glamour. Barn reported earnings of $8.8 million, or 29 Eisman tracked down most of the furnishings on eBay, cents a diluted share, representing a 24.3 per- including a gigantic Lucite chandelier that once graced cent decline from $11.6 million, or 39 cents, in a Lane Bryant store in a Tennessee mall. The chrome the year-earlier period. Total revenues rose 9.3 and turquoise Plexiglas counter was an entertainment percent to $397.3 million. The company said center from ABC Carpet’s warehouse that Eisman cus- results in the previous year were adjusted tomized. The clothing racks are inexpensive, standard because of changes in the way it accounts for “black beauties,” usually used in back storerooms, to store operating leases. which Eisman added copper paint and shelves. Dress Barn, based in Suffern, N.Y., operates Eisman and Richter had a daughter in August. 775 Dress Barn and 473 Maurices stores. Their next project will probably be another store. They —Meredith Derby are eyeing Las Vegas and hope to sign a lease this year. PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY The executives who make news in the boardroom get their news here.

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TRIPLE FIVE SOUL WAL-MART YVES SAINT LAURENT* 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 WWD.COM WWD West Los Angeles Contemporary Market in Flux

By Nola Sarkisian-Miller produces the Brighte event, said she expects to do an April show because of a softer market. LOS ANGELES — Two isn’t necessarily better than one “Traffic patterns weren’t there,” Kroll said. “A number when it comes to market weeks in Los Angeles. of our vendors did well, but it was an incomplete market.” The new Los Angeles Contemporary Market was A number of retailers shopped the market, including staged three weeks earlier and split off for the first time Nordstrom and Barneys New York, as did specialty from the April edition. The goal: to get a jump on the fall stores, some of which appreciated the market’s new selling season, streamline the sourcing process and bet- schedule. ter coordinate with European vendor deadlines. “It’s the perfect timing for us, because we like to work Still, the change left many participants insistent that late into the season,” said Stefani Greenfield, co-owner the division must not be repeated for the market’s spring of the Scoop stores, who was buying a lot of summer rendition in October. immediates such as sexy T-shirts from Fifi and Cadeau, Showroom owners from the California Market Center silk camis from Gold Hawk and private label beach pants to the Cooper Design Space said that the dual markets and cotton voile skirts from Tysa for her Hamptons and disrupted buyer traffic and doubled the workload. Many Miami locations. “We go to Europe and the shows and couldn’t predict retailer attendance, especially those then come back and write orders here.” showrooms at the market center, which also catered to Greenfield said she planned to return in April as does updated misses’ clientele. Jaye Hersh, co-owner of Intuition in West Los Angeles. “We saw Southern California buyers, but what was miss- “For me, [the show was] fine and I picked up some ing was the rest of the country,” said Michael Gae, co-owner great new handbag lines,” Hersh said. “But all the ven- of the Rep et Trois showroom at the market center. dors were complaining.” Missy Arko, owner of the Fille showroom at the Cooper Hersh had denim on her mind and reordered from Design Space, said, “It’s frustrating. A lot of the buyers Antik, Stitch’s and 575. who were here came for D&A [the Designers & Agents Denim’s omnipresence at D&A didn’t subside with show] and said they’d visit the showrooms in April.” the launch of new lines, some begun by already estab- To the relief of many, Ed Mandelbaum, co-founder of lished players such as R U Blue, a western-influenced the D&A show and one of the organizers of the new mar- line by Blue Cult. Others made debuts by breakaway ket, said a split market isn’t likely to be repeated in the designers, including Robin’s Jean, a new line of denim fall. He said a show announcement is expected as early by Robin Chretien, a former designer with Hudson as this week. jeans. Former Von Dutch owner Michael Cassel with “We have every indication to believe that there will business partner Michael Paradise also came out with a be a unified market in October,” said Mandelbaum, who line called Stronghold, using selvage shuttle denim. said traffic fell 7 percent to about 1,717 people compared Stronghold was a denim line around Los Angeles at the with the D&A show last year. turn of the 20th century. The showroom owners at the New Mart building, such “Authenticity sells itself,” Cassel said. as Ginny Wong and Circle 5, reported healthy business. Giving the denim business legs this season was a “We’ve been writing orders like there’s no tomor- heavy dose of embroidery, studding and hand-painted row,” said Wong, who noted strong buyer interest in the details as seen during Brighte at Switch USA and Tart line’s raw-edged wrap dresses and cotton sweats, Streets Ahead, a onetime line of accessories that now and Lu Lu Lame’s delicately jeweled camisoles and vel- includes ribbed tanks, blue jeans and a new collection vet shrugs. of active sets emboldened with chunky jeweled crosses Officials at the market center, a cornerstone of the fash- and fleur-de-lis. Studded styles from Streets Ahead. ion district that couldn’t provide meatier marketing sup- And the addition of such bling bling has raised prices. port of the new, earlier date because of budget constraints, Streets Ahead jeans wholesale from $97 to $397, but no said they hoped the two markets would produce a traffic one seemed to mind. level at least equal to last year’s single April event. “They can’t get enough of it, and the blingier the bet- “To split and/or fragment market dates within a spe- ter,” said Michelle Sack, co-owner of the line. HOT TRENDS cific geographic area is to dilute the effectiveness of Men’s wear looks offered a sedate complement to the ● Embellishments from studded jeans and furs to heavily each of the markets and is a show of disrespect for our flashier styles. San Francisco-based Paola showed embroidered T-shirts and denim retailers’ greatest commodity when they go to market — schoolboy pants in tweed fabrications with striped shirts ● Open-work crocheted styles from tunics to shrugs time,” said Cecil Strickland, executive director of retail laced with Lurex. ● Men’s wear styles in tweeds and plaids relations at the market center. Eager to tap into the affluent U.S. shopper, foreign lines ● Richer fabrications such as jacquard and tweed ● Elyse Kroll, president of ENK International, which represented a strong resource base at D&A and Brighte, Wood accessories in bracelets and layered chains

such as Paris-based Nell & Me, Amsterdam-based 10 Feet A look and Belgium-based Mist, despite the weak dollar. Mist, from which was selling dressier styles, such as sequined satin Mist. tanks, V-neck dresses with tulle overlay and silk turtle- necks with flutter sleeves, said it wasn’t meeting resistance to its wholesale prices of $130 to $280. “We’re not seeing any negative impact; we just got picked up by Barneys New York,” said Mist production coordinator Hanne Strobbe. Tokyo-based Moyuru offered a rich collection of earth-toned knits, wools and silks in drapier fits, such as turtleneck dresses, wraps and coats, with wholesale prices ranging from $40 to $250. “Buyers are appreciating the less-clingy fit the line offers compared to most contemporary brands,” said Aziza Chorsi, owner of American International Traders, Moyuru’s U.S. distributor. Another trend on prominent display was the use of brocade, jacquard and men’s wear fabrics. A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz used the fabric in its jeans for embel- lishment, for cuff and lapel trim on jackets and striping on its men’s wear corsets. Jacquard jeans-style pants and jackets by Gasp were paired with crinkled silk camisoles and tanks with appliqués. Bohemian flair lent itself to gypsy chic with flowing knits and distinctive crocheted styles. Sunner was a new line at D&A offering crocheted tunics with racerbacks and easy-fitting linen cotton dresses with crocheted details. Lilja Designs at D&A was selling briskly with its alpaca dresses in lace stitches and mohair dusters. T- A look shirt line My-Tee was offering open-work crocheted from shrugs with gold sparkle closures. Gasp. — With contributions from Michelle Dalton Tyree, Los Angeles PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 15

DESIGNER Warehouse/logistics mgr to $135K. Current exp in apparel Women’s Missy Clothing co required. Supervise 10. Los Angeles based company Five different public ware- is interviewing for a designer houses in LA. 500 million dol- lar Co. Ability to improve distri- Merchandiser / Designer for Women’s Missy Clothing. bution procedures essential. Three Dots seeks a talented team player for our creative staff. Applicant should be profi- Call 973-564-9236 JARAL Must have extensive exp. in women’s contemporary sweaters, cient in designing sweaters, Fashion Agency. knits and wovens. Must possess a great style sense. Offshore knits, woven sportswear & experience required. Able to accurately identify emerging dresses. At least 3 years trends, shapes, colors and prints. Proven track record from experience is necessary. development to retail sell through required. Responsibilities include: merchandising, trend direction, retail market research, Please fax resumes to strategic planning & presentations. Min. 3 yrs. exp. 213-228-1911 Position is based in Orange County, CA Email resumes to: [email protected] Fax: (714) 698-1365

Sales Associate Well Est. Men’s & Women’s SALES DIRECTOR hi-end fashion company ORGANIC BEAUTY COMPANY seeks very experienced & Ayoung and fast growing Organic Beauty company is looking motivated Sales People for for a Sales Director that will have primary responsibility for Beverly Hills location the U.S. top line sales revenue. Our products are sold in prestige Fax resume 310-247-0627 stores and upscale natural food stores. Responsibilities include development of the sales strategy, achieving sales revenue goals and managing the sell through of the products. Direct reports include (2) Account Reps. and part time demonstrators. We are looking for an entrepreneurial personality that is passionate about Organic Beauty products. This person must have experience in meeting top line revenue goals and have experience in strategically planning sales, forecasting sales and developing quality relationships with key accounts. This director will report directly to the CEO of the company and will involve travel through-out the US. Compensation: Base Salary, Commission Structure and the possibility of an Equity Package. Please forward resume, Attention: Tracy Moran Fax: (415) 457- 4605 or E-mail: [email protected] 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005

PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Furniture 4 Sale PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Showroom Closing! Furniture, includ- ing 10 solid wood armoires, fixtures, PRODUCTIONS tables, chairs, and more. Call for an Full servcie shop to the trade. appt. 212-730-4379, 260 W. 39th. Must Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Menswear be taken by Mar 30. Designer LFUSA currently seeks an exp’d Menswear Designer to join our Levi’s Signature Team. 3-5 yrs exp in wovens. Knowledge with yarn dyes TURN YOUR UNWANTED and constructions. Denim & CLOTHING and wet processing exp. Expert ACCESSORIES INTO CASH level with Illustrator & Asafashion executive you probably have Photoshop. acloset full of clothing and accessories that you no longer wear. So why not Weprovide outstanding education in job turn it into some real cash? DoubleTake training, basic skills and work force de- is the country’s premiere upscale con- velopment. We are currently seeking a T-Shirt/Graphic signment boutique and because we have F/T instructor to join our state of the art thousands of customers with an insatia- FASHION DESIGN & APPAREL Designer ble appetite for designer fashions, you’re TECHNOLOGY DEPARTMENT LFUSA currently seeks and guaranteed to get the greatest return. Position is tenure - track starting Fall exp’d designer to create and Call Liz (973-564-6464) now to arrange 2005. Deadline extended to close for a free pick-up and before you know 4/4/05. Part time position also open execute graphics. Familiar it you’ll be getting your checks. (closes 4/18/05). For application materials with multiple printing, appli- www.edoubletake.com & information please visit: http://www.wvmccd.cc.ca.us/wvmccd/hr/ que & embroidery techniques. West Valley College, Saratoga, CA MUST go from concept to entire T-Shirt presentation. Expert Photoshop/Illustrator. All Fabrics & Trims Wanted Send resume to: Immediate payment. We come to you. [email protected] or All quantities. We are nice people to RASKIN EXECUTIVE SEARCH fax to 646-366-0288 deal with. Call Frank Levy: 717.761.3259 Exclusive to the Fashion Industry www.lifung.com Ileen Raskin 212-213-6381 No Phone Calls please. EOE Nancy Bottali, Accessory 212-213-6386 Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 Fax: 609-448-8248 www.raskinexecsearch.com Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Call CLOTHES-OUT: (937) 898-2975

Industry Specific Executive Search Our clients are seeking SKILLED APPAREL DESIGNERS ACCOUNT EXECS(High end) .60-150K FABRIC RESEARCH & DVL...... 95-120K (tech & creative), MERCHANDISERS (including VISUAL), SALES/PROD DVL CHILDRENS 90-120K SALES (technology and apparel) DESIGNERS (Sr. & Asst) ...... 40-100K and APPAREL INDUSTRY EXECUTIVES in all areas. 50th Avenue, LIC TECH DESIGNERS (All areas) .40-90K PLANNING (All areas)...... 40-90K Please send resumes to [email protected] SAVVY INVESTMENT OPPTY SWEATERS (All areas) ...... 40-85K For open positions, go to: PRODUCTION (MGR) ...... 60-85K Mint Multi-Family Bldg EXECUTIVE ASST. (4 positions).....50-70K http://www.walterwilhelmassoc.com/exesearch.htm •Four 2 BR Apts• Roof Lease TRIM ASSOC ...... 40-50K •Prof. Space•New Construction •10’Ceils•1 Subway Stop to NYC ASSISTANT •High Inc•15 yr Tax Rebate BUYER $3,200,000 (low carry) MERCHANDISER Novelty and lifestyle co. seeks creative METROPARK USA D. Dickinson 212•639•9716 Many other oppty’s Temp & Perm individual for multi-tasking. Responsi- Men’s Asst. Buyer foxresidential.com ID#152413 Call: 212-986-7329 Fax: 212-986-7708, bilities include identifying emerging Email: [email protected] trends and hands on sourcing. Must be Metropark is a new chain of mall-based organized and self motivated. 2 years specialty stores offering contemporary, Administrative Assistant exp. A MUST. FAX: 212-643-0684 multi-brand apparel & accessories for For Head of Sales at est’d manufacturer young men & women. We are looking of branded and private label clothing. ASSOCIATE MANAGER for a professional & driven individual to join our buying team. Resp. will Men’s apparel mfr. seeking a Financial Strong communication, computer and RETAIL & SPA DEVELOPMENT organizational skills are required. Must include assortment planning, order Partner or Company for joint venture! Clarins USA Inc. seeks an Associate mgmt., allocation, vendor relations, Have tremendous license. Will do $6M be able to multi-task and help out during Manager, Retail & Spa Devel. to join our busy market weeks and the corresponding trend research. Min. 1 year in buying in sales next 12 months, $10M following Marketing Dept. Responsibilities incl: office exp. req’d (Men’s exp. preferred), year. Cannot handle this financially. follow-up. 2+ years industry experience. Develop programs (special events/local Please fax resume to: (212) 221-8135 proficient in Microsoft Word & Excel, Have everything else in place except marketing); Act as liaison with retail analytical, detailed & organizational you. Only principals may call. No factors and spa sales manager & staff for clear skills required. or brokers please. WE NEED YOU! communication & smooth execution of Administrative Asst. Visit us at www.metroparkusa.com Call: (800) 955-0805, Ask for Mr. S Help in managing A/R & A/P, invoicing, programs; Act as point person for all retail & spa activity (coordinate with Please forward resume with RTV, imports, and working with the factor. salary requirement to: Must be computer literate and have some Paris office, Institute Development Manager and all Clarins USA internal [email protected] bookkeeping exp. Should know Excel; No phone calls or recruiters please Word / PeachTree Acct. a +. Fax/E-mail to: support groups); Analyze retail & spa DESIGNER 212-719-0111 / [email protected] competition & sales; Manage retail & spa promotion budget as well as Over- ASSISTANT DESIGNER 1407 BROADWAY ADMIN SINCE 1967 see operational requirements. College Contemporary Designer Co. seeks a SHOWROOMS/OFFICES W-I-N-S-T-O-N degree, 3-5 yrs relevant exp. including Cutting Room Manager creative and well organized assistant TREBOR MGMT at least one of the following: marketing, Must be organized, knowledge of all designer. Must be good with specs, prints Steven Lambert 212-944-6094 APPAREL STAFFING retail, special events & public relations. fabrics & basic pattern skills. Bilin- and embroidery and layouts. Must be DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Flexible, creative, entrepreneurial spirit gual Spanish speaking a plus. Located proficient in Illustrator & Photoshop. For Space in Garment Center ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION &team oriented. EOE. Email resume w/ in NJ. Fax resume to: 212-398-1661 Excellent opportunity for the right in- Helmsley-Spear, Inc. (212) 557-5000 F:(212) 986-8437 salary history to: [email protected] dividual! Fax resume to: 212-239-2409 212-880-0414 Apparel Spec Designer BI-LINGUAL CHINESE SLEEPWEAR DESIGN ASSISTANT Showroom, Loft-Expert-Sublets Production Coord $50K Fast growing Newborn/Infant co. seeks Designer SOHO - 30’s - 50’s All Sizes Create Tech Packets for Woven & Knits. Work w/Factories in China Communicate with overseas factories. awellorganized and highly motivated Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 team player with a good color sense. Assistant Embroidery Search- www.manhattanoffices.com Must evaluate Fit & Construction. Web PDM or comparable program. Resp. include: production packages, Designer Highly organized person. Minimum BOOKKEEPER F/C sample request forms, details on art- Fast paced sportswear and dress company Showroom / Office / Retail work and designs, specs, and color We find you space-best deal-no fee of 2 yrs. exp. Salary is based on exp. A/R, A/P, G/L & Bank Records. seeks embroidery designer with min 2 Please fax resume to: (212) 481-7498 Experience & knowledge of Quickbooks cards. Must be proficient in Illustrator. yrs exp in imports. Should be able to sublet 525 7th/ready Fax resume to: 212-279-0131 Garment Center Real Estate required. Fax resumes: (212) 661-2398 prepare product packs for Asia and follow Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 up on all design details. Must have ex- Are your Samples cellent sketching skills. SOHO - 10 Greene Street Designer Assist $35K Fax resume to Trina 212-302-3318. 1,200 sq. ft. Retail Space Disappearing? Must have flat sketching, Illustrating Covert video surveillance and other [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 services offered. (917) 783-5066 www.dumann.com www.industrialoptions.com Designer ARTIST NEEDED Patterns/Samples/Beading Associate Designer Versatile Graphic Designer needed to Large childrenswear company is seeking Duplicates Cut & Sew work variety of exciting projects: Must adesigner to do infant/toddler boys. Fast & Full Service- Production have exp. with: production packages, Must be able to sketch, and do prints. Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 exp. with prints, create original artwork, DESIGNER/ASSISTANT Knowledge of product development a repeats, color separations, embroidery Contemporary company needs plus. Will work closely with entire de- Market Week PATTERNS/SAMPLES etc. Photoshop & Illustrator skills a organized, responsible designers, sign team. Individual must have good Space available at 1407 Broadway. PRODUCTIONS must. Must be fast & detail oriented. minimum 3 yrs. experience. Must be MAC skills and must be proficient Table, chairs, racks and grids included. 257 W. 38th Street, 3rd Floor Fax resumes to 212-695-0203 able to multitask. with Photoshop/Illustrator. Call: 347-242-0807 Ph: (212) 921-8100 or email: [email protected] Fax: 212-391-2485 Fax resume 212-239-2766 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 17

For the past 25 years the Chaps brand has been a leader in men’s sportswear market. With a tradition rooted in classic American styling, Chaps continues to provide for the needs of the contemporary man’s varied lifestyle. Chaps, a division of Warnaco Inc.,currently has a number of exciting opportunities for talented Associate & Assistant Designers to join our Chaps Sportswear and Denim design teams. As an Associate or Assistant Designer for the Chaps Brand you will work closely with all members of the design team to develop seasonal lines and as such must demonstrate a high taste level combined with a great sense of color and style. Knowledge of construction and fabrication is a must, along with a demonstrated ability to produce flat sketches and technical packages using Adobe Illustrator. Experience with Web PDM and the ability to generate graphics and trim are a big plus. We are seeking an Associate Designers with 1 - 3 years experience and Assistant Designer with approximately 1 year of experience. At Warnaco, we offer exciting and challenging careers for people who are passionate about our brands and are determined to succeed in a fast-paced, creative environment. We strive to continually attract and develop employees that reflect the diversity of our consumer base. Please fax resume along with salary requirements to (212) 287-8752 or e-mail as an MS SPORTSWEAR Word attachment to [email protected]. Prospective candidates should refer- PRODUCTION ASST: ence Chaps Design in the subject line when submitting resumes for consideration. DESIGNER Min 3-5 yrs exp with domes- DESIGNER tic manufacturing. Must be MERCHANDISER We are seeking a dynamic, able to work under pres- talented design pro with 4-7 yrs. Leading women’s apparel co. is BOSTON sure. Exp. w/ purchasing exp. to join our staff trim, writing cutting tickets, seeking a dynamic designer with We are proud to be an equal opportunity employer designing for a major public moderate and contractor follow up. 5-10 yrs exp. to join our NEW YORK contemporary co. Must have Must be detail orientated as design staff. Designing for a major background in updated knits and Office Mgr./Exec. Asst. well as computer literate. So- public contemporary co. Candidate Top-rated fashion & event production wovens for pants, skirts and jkts. Design cial occasion exp. Preferred. must have a strong background Bergen County based Children’s Co. specializing in infant company has F/T position available for Must be able to shop stores for in update knits and wovens for experienced Office Manger/Executive Please fax resume w/ sal- wear for better market, has excellent career opportunities Assistant. 2 years experience (college the newest trends. Strong pants, skirts and jackets and graduate preferred). Approximately knowledge of fabrics and an ary req to 201 558-9898 available to join our team. Seeking talented, creative, detail strong knowledge of prints and oriented professionals to fill the following positions: 50% of duties involve ensuring daily understanding of development (Attn: Sondra) or to fabrics. Must be able to shop smooth running of SoHo Office & bal- [email protected] ance of time working for managing time lines. Must be able to show stores for the newest trends and DESIGNER Director as Executive Assistant. Must collections to store buyers. have an understanding of devel- 3-5 yrs. related exp/Photoshop/Illustrator a plus have top-notch computer skills (mostly Excellent salary and benefits. opment time lines. Must be able MAC environment), facility with equip- Fax resume to HR: ASSOCIATE DESIGNER ment (must be able to manage all office DESIGNER-MENSWEAR to show collections to buyers. equipment & deal with vendors), excel- 617-332-3260 Expertise in wovens & Excellent Salary and Benefits 2-3 yrs. related exp/Photoshop/Illustrator a must lent phone demeanor, good written & cut and sew knits Fax Resume HR: organizational skills & a good work ethic. PREMIER public co. seeking talented, 212-827-0897 ASSISTANT DESIGNER $35K. Please send resume & a cover team player for leading, fashion retailer. 1-2 yrs. related exp/Photoshop/Illustrator a must letter to FAX: (212) 274-1773 Designer Must have exp. in designing collection of trend right product. Req. sharp eye ASSOCIATE DESIGNER for print, color & pattern, as well as, ARTIST Patternmaker shop market for inspiration. Responsible 1-2 yrs. related exp in Photoshop/Illustrator a plus 3+ years experience in Knits and Wovens. Women’s specialty catalog co. seeks First pattern through final pattern. highly creative & motivated Associate for tech packages, communication w/ Fax resume & salary requirements to Designer to help create/interpret, execute overseas offices and fabric research / Eveningwear Company Seeks: 201-327-2969 Attn: CW & illustrate a unique product assortment. development. Knowledge of Photoshop & DRAPERS & Production Asst Excellent technical and illustrative Illustrator is key along w/ garment fit/ Organized individual with good computer fashion drawings; strong computer construction & organizational skills. SAMPLEMAKERS JOBS JOBS JOBS Merchandise and follow up skills. Fax resume attn. Carmella knowledge (photo shop, illustrator, 10 Yrs Exp. Fax Resume 212-704-0462 *Artists: N/I/T-Girl-Boy-Jr.-Young Men ASSISTANT Both positions need to be bilingual Quark, Mac). Full understanding of 212-556-5462 *Designer-assists-assoc boy-girl-jr-yg men English and Chinese. garment construction; high-level com- *Designer Girls Better Holiday Dresses MERCHANDISERS Fax Resume with Salary Req. to munication and creative skills. *Designer Girls 7/16 JR. Driven Denim TAYLOR HODSON 917-510-9448 Attn. Rebecca Excellent compensation & benefits Designer *Designer-Junior Sweaters Immediate freelance-to-perm package. For consideration, please fax/ FULL CHARGE *Design/Merch Head Jr. Sweaters & C/S Knits opportunities avail w/ wonderful co’s. Patternmaker Assistant email resume, including salary history to: Technical Designer *Entry Levels: Technical-Design- Merchandise Degree in Merchandising and related Childrenswear company seeks experi- BOOKEEPER *Production Coordinator Walmart Exp. NYC swim mfr. Fax resume & salary (212)916-8320 exp. required. Positive ’tude a must! requirements to: (718) 433-1730 or enced Technical Designer with girls Designer Co. seeks bookeeper with cur- *Production coords - bilingual chinese Pls e-mail or fax resumes: [email protected] *Production:mgrs & coords & assists E-mail: [email protected] Visit us at: www.spiegel.com background. Must have knowledge of rent garment center experience. 2-3 days [email protected] flat sketching, grading, garment con- per days per week. A/P, A/R, B/R. Must *Production MGR Import Travel Sweaters (212) 924-9421 struction and Wal-Mart. Must be detail- be able to issue PO’s, be savvy with sales *Piece Goods assististant or coordinator PATTERNMAKER *Quality Control Inspectors- Car Needed Designer oriented and have good communication and commission reports and excellent Large sized womens outerwear mfr skills. Good salary and benefits. with quick books. Please fax resume to: *Sales assistant showroom experience-$ Hi located in N.J. seeks patternmaker w/ GRAPHIC/ACCESSORY Fax resume (212)202-7897 212-239-2409 *Technical Desgn & Assists & Entry level at least 5 yrs exp. Must have knowledge of *Technical Designer Leather Apparel--$Hi Merchandiser Assistant grading as well as women’s coat con- DESIGNER *Technical Designers Sweaters- - $ Hi struction. Pls fax resume to: 212-719-4616 Growing accessory importer seeks indi- Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) Updated sportswear & dress manufacturer vidual with min. 5 yrs exp. with strong DESIGNER seeks entry level asst. Must be able to background in backpacks, luggage, & multi-task, be highly organized, and PATTERNMAKER TRACY EVANS hard worker. Must be proficient in Excel, kids product. Must be proficient with Private Label div. seeks Designer w/ GRAPHIC ARTIST NORTH BERGEN, NJ LOCATION Mac, Photoshop, Illustrator, & knowledge Work, Photoshop, and Illustrator. Will Fashion forward fast paced sportswear product development exp. min of 3-5 Weareseeking an experienced, creative prepare production packages, line sheets, of Excel. Must be detail oriented, & years. Updated missy sportswear, individual with strong girls background. LICENSING MGR. manufacturer seeks 1st to production have good sketch skills. OVERSEAS and pricing. patternmaker. Must be able to work import & domestic. Able to complete Individual will work closely with our Secaucus, NJ based apparel co seeks Fax resume to Trina 212-302-3318 EXP. a plus. Excellent salary and benefits! projects on time, research fabric and design staff, translating concepts and detail oriented Licensing Mgr with min from sketch and drape. Extensive exp. Email resume to: [email protected] trim markets. Knowledge of gmt con- ideas to create and develop prints. 3yrsexp working with or for licensors. necessary in women, men’s & plus sizes. struction, able to direct patternmaker Working knowledge of Illustrator and Responsibilities include growing brand Must be extremely conscientious & &supervise sample execution. Must Photoshop necessary. business through aggressive communi- well organized. Excellent Opportunity! be organized and able to multi task. Please fax resume to (212) 239-2766 cation between licensors and our sales Please fax resume to: (212) 388-1901 DESIGNER E-mail resume to: force. Must be an organized self starter Merchandiser or Email: [email protected] Leading Private Label Producer of [email protected] with computer skills!Emailresume & Large childrenswear company is seeking a children’s woven bottoms seeks exp’d. salary history to: [email protected] EOE Merchandiser with girls background, Prod. Development Asst and creative designer. We are looking for sizes 4-16. Experience with mass mer- Womens Apparel company seeking experi- ateam player to work with sales/mer- chants is required. enced, detail oriented person to assist with chandising & have interaction w/buyers. Digital Colorist/ GRAPHIC DESIGNER Please fax resume 212-239-2766 all aspects of product development. Must Applicant must be well organized, detail Novelty and lifestyle co. seeks creative have good comm. & computer skills. oriented, and proficient in Photoshop CAD Designer individual w/ strong Illustrator skills MARKETING MANAGER Please Fax resume: 212-382-2421 &Illustrator. Experience working with Successful digital printing studio seeks and color sense must be detail Attn: Susan girls embellishments & strong market talented CAD Designer with strong color oriented with a minimum of 2 years exp. MAKEUP & SKINCARE Merchandiser/Sales awareness is a must. Please E-mail all sensibility. Must be able to color match Fax: 212-643-0684 French luxury company seeks an or- Production Assistant resumes to: [email protected] different color combinations, understand ganized and detail oriented individual Major import company seeks individual Large childrenswear company is looking different fabrications, motivated, detail to manage all aspects of makeup and with sales and merchandising exp. in for a production assistant to support oriented, organized and has the ability skincare marketing. Bachelor’s degree the women’s athletic market. Should Director of Sourcing. Responsibilities DESIGNER/Mdser-5+ yrs exp w/ a knit to multi-task. Basic knowledge of Photo- and previous makeup marketing expe- possess contacts in both the mid tier will be diversified. Individual must have gloves/cold weather accessories mfr to shop and Illustrator are essential. INVENTORY SPECIALIST $80K rience a must. Please fax resume with and specialty store distribution. Excellent excellent computer skills. build the line/mge-2/sm tvl. $90-100K Please fax resume to: (212) 852-4876 Retail Pro Software a Must! cover letter with salary requirements to: salary and benefits. Fax resume 212-239-2766 Les Richards Agcy; Call (212) 221-0870 or Email: [email protected] [email protected] 212-715-7379 Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005

Fast growing licensed apparel company seeks qualified individuals to fill the following positions: PRODUCTION MANAGER Hands on manager to run production for cut & sew and PRODUCTION sweater knits. Must know import and domestic production. • PRODUCTION ASSISTANT - Assist Production Manager The ideal candidate will be able to handle a multitude of re- in all aspects of import production. Good computer/ sponsibilities, be computer literate and able to guide team organizational skills. 1-2 years related experience. thru all phases of production from order inception thru to shipping. Thorough knowledge of T&A creation and tracking DESIGN is a must. This position requires a manager who is willing to • SENIOR DESIGNER - 3+ years experience in Junior "do it all" himself if necessary. Sleepwear or Junior Sportswear. Manage design, product development and merchandising process. MERCHANDISER • SENIOR DESIGNER - 3+ years experience in Girls Seeking dynamic merchandiser to join our team. The ideal Sleepwear. Manage design, product development and candidate will have experience in junior cut & sew knits and merchandising process. sweaters. You must be able to identify emerging trends and • TECHNICAL DESIGNER - Women’s/Girls. Must be very have a proven track record from design development to retail good with knits, prints and appliques. Wal-Mart CTL, sell through. Responsibilities include merchandising, trend di- spec and grading. rection, retail market research, strategic planning & presenta- • DESIGN ASSISTANT - Assist Designer with sample tions. Market contacts are a plus. development, calendar, etc., 1 year related experience. DESIGNER • GRAPHIC ARTISTS - Creative individuals with 2 + years Seeking creative, strong, hands on sweater designer with an in licensed and novelty design. understanding of the junior, kids & missy customers. Candi- • SALES ASSISTANTS - Minimum of 2 years experience date must know garment construction, yarn sizes, gauges with Major Department, Mid-Tier or Mass Accounts. and cloth construction. Please send resume referencing job position with SWEATER TECHNICAL DESIGNER salary requirements to E-mail: [email protected] You will be responsible for creating initial tech packs, technical sketching, issuing specs-junior, missy & kids, assisting in fit, approving pre-pro and production samples. Complete knowl- edge of machinery, gauges, yarns, garment construction, grading and proficiency in excel. Experience with mass mar- Production Manager ket and lectra gallery system a plus. 2(x)ist, a dynamic leader in Men’s Fashion underwear, seeks All positions require minimum 5 years experience. a qualified self starter with a minimum of 5+ years of pro- E-mail resume in confidence to [email protected] duction experience, as we continue our extraordinary growth. Must have the ability to work closely with overseas factories, drive and manage all aspects of product develop- ment from design to product execution. Candidate should be detail oriented, highly organized and motivated thriving in an environment where accountability and responsibility are mandatory. Able to develop, maintain and drive timelines in every area of production. Strong communication skills both written and verbal are essential. Must be proficient Established, edgy design driven t’ween company is looking to in Excel and Word. Overseas travel is required. Enjoy a fill the following positions: unique working environment with growth potential and full medical, dental benefits and 401K. Salary to commensurate DESIGNER- Senior Level, over 5 years experience . Must with experience. Email: [email protected] have strong junior or t’ween background in all classifications and be willing to travel. Knowledge of Illustrator and Photoshop essential. Technical Designers 90K+ Renowned Designer seeks exp’d tech ASSISTANT DESIGNER- Great opportunity for a design driven Successful Fast-paced Knitwear Co. designers for various Women’s Wear has the following positions available: Divs. Strong expertise in Sportswear / individual. Must have some junior background. Must be Dresses / Suits. Strong wovens knowl. proficient in Illustrator and Photoshp. Tech Designer Wovens-Bottoms Denim Asst Fashion Designer Wovens-sportswear. Call 212-689-3366 ORDER ENTRY/CUSTOMER SERVICE- Team Player, must be Energetic person to join our team. [email protected] willing to work in all areas of company’s operations. Great Responsibilities would include, but are Sourcing not limited to: creating line sheets, flat entry level opportunity. Retail Opportunities sketches, color ways CAD’s, scanning Technical Designers Tumi, Inc., the leader in high-end SENIOR and laying out prints and embellish- ALL IMMEDIATE HIRE SEND RESUME- Fax: 212-931-5709 or luggage and accessories, currently has ment patterns. Must have advanced *Tech. Dsgn Mgr-Exp. w/ Woven Bottom WGTS email: [email protected] openings for Store Managers, Assistant SOURCING MANAGER computer skills, as well as experience *Tech. Dsgnr-C.N.S Knits & Sweaters Managers & Sales Associates in New Tumi, Inc. seeks a Senior Sourcing with Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop. *Tech. Dsgnr-Woven Tops Exp. York City. Candidates should possess Manager to oversee the sourcing and Email: [email protected] *Tech. Dsgnr-Knits, Wovens, Denim-Phila. Loc Production Assistant PRODUCT MANAGER related retail experience, good sales production of our design forward or Fax: 212-764-3665, Attn: Angela *Tech. Dsgnr- Exp. w/ sweaters presentation and strong customer serv- collections. This position partners *Tech. Dsgnr-Childrenswear Exp. Major Sportswear Co. seeks organized, Fast-Paced Children’s Importer seeks with overseas suppliers, as well as our *Asstnt. Tech. Dsgnr-Cut N Sew Knits detail oriented person to assist with all Product Manager with 10+ yrs. product ice skills. Account Executive design and product development Seeking a proactive Account Executive *Asstnt. Tech. Dsgner-Sweater Knwldge aspects of production. Bi-lingual Chinese/ development & production experience Your commitment to the Tumi team teams to establish new lines and See other listings @ English req’d. Min. 5 years experience. of branded merchandise from Asia in will be recognized through a competitive with a minimum of 2 years department ensure timely product launches. store experience. The ideal candidate www.apparelstaffing.com or Fax or email resumes to: knits/sweaters for national branded compensation plan, including a bonus Responsibilities include releasing or- Fax resume to: (212) 302-1161 212-967-8018 / [email protected] line. Knowledge and experience in opportunity and a comprehensive benefits will be able to work with department ders to contractors, negotiating prices, store accounts, as well as one or more fabrics/yarns, knitting, garment con- package. Please fax your resume, refer- managing orders against capacity struction, printing, production lead encing "NY Openings" to (912) 538 1080 specialty store regions. This person Textile Cad Artist constraints and providing FOB will also have great computer and lan- Expert in Photoshop 2 + years times, etc. Must be able to direct and or email: [email protected] targets to meet margin goals. Periodic supervise staff. Travel exp. a must. guage skills (knowledge of Spanish is exp, textile design skills a must. Production Assist to $45K. Current exp in travel to the Far East is required. desired), excellent phone manner, and Sal + ben. Fax resume 212-947-4501 private label. Wovens. Testing of fabric & Fax or E-mail resume Attn: Eric TUMI, Inc. 212-658-9149 / [email protected] Werequire a minimum of five years developed sales skills. Private label garments. Costing helpful not nec. 38th St. We welcome diversity production planning or sourcing background is a plus. at 7th Ave. Call 973-564-9236 JARAL Agcy. www.tumi.comretail TEXTILE DESIGNER responsibility working with interna- Email: [email protected] Full time. Contemporary textile design tional branded consumer products or Fax: 212-764-3665, Attn: Melissa studio is looking for talented new Public Relations Rep companies. Prior direct interaction designers to create prints for the apparel Fashion Co. seeks PR Rep w/great Men’s with contractors in Asian markets, Entry Level Customer and home markets. Must know Photoshop PRODUCTION &Women’s Fashion & Press contacts; RETAIL PLANNER outstanding communication and Service/Sales Asst and /or Illustrator. Great opportunity for hip, innovative ideas; excellent commu- analytic skills, and excellent PC skills growth in our original design department! nication skills; self-motivation, and 3-5 Childrenswear Chain seeks Retail required. SAP a plus. Looking for a highly organized, eager COORDINATOR person to join our team. The ideal can- Recent grads OK. Good Benefits. years experience. E-mail info to: Inventory Planner. Experience req’ in Please e-mail resume to Established Pvt Label Activewear Co. Open-To-Buy plans by store. Minimum didate will have experience in daily Please call Stephanie @ 212-594-0777 seeks qualified individual to handle all [email protected] [email protected] or fax to for a portfolio review of 3-5 years experience required. (908) 756-8590 communication w/ customers, proper aspects of import production. Duties: Please fax resume to: (718) 373-7318 phone etiquette, PO maintenance, and issue P.O.s, coordinate production excellent follow-up skills. packages, correspond daily w/ overseas Quality Control TUMI, INC. We welcome diversity Email: [email protected] factories, retail compliance, track ship- NYWomen’s Spts Co seeks team player or Fax: 212-764-3665, Attn: Melissa ments and act as liaison between with quality control experience. Knowl- www.tumi.com Wovens/Sweaters/Knits design/technical/QC departments. Ideal edge of colors, specs, fabrics, better *TD/Sweaters-Better Collection Hse $85K RETAIL SALES SWEATER COORDINATOR *TD Foundation-Swimwear $60-$85K candidate should be responsible, self- garment construction and be totally Contemp dsgn firm seeks detail orient, motivated and detail-oriented w/ strong computer literate. Candidate should ANALYST *TD/Sweater-Biling Chinese $70K highly motivated, very organized swtr Must have knit pattern making communication & organizational skills. have focus, be detail oriented and ability Apparel company seeks individual with coord to work for design & prod depts. Fluent in Excel and Word. Min 5 years to multi task in a diverse environment. knowledge of apparel business and SPEC TECH *TD Wovens- BetterBridge $70-80K Fast paced, Private Label Co., seeks a Min 2 yrs exp, must know sweater *TD Childrens-Toddler/Preteen $75K experience. E-mail resume to: Benefits. Please fax 212 768 7773 or high volume accounts. Excellent com- specs, Costing & finan negotiations. [email protected] email [email protected] munication and Excel skills required. highly motivated individual to provide *TD Jeans/Denim $75K sketch & spec, fittings, and production Manage strict T&A cal, strong excel & *TD-Wovens & Knits $65K Walmart / RetailLink exp. a must. have contemp eye for Design. Pls Please fax resume to: (212) 202-7897 packages. Will also communicate with *TD/Knits & Wovens $65K RECEPTIONIST overseas factories. Bilingual Chinese a e-mail resume to: [email protected] *TD/Menswear Sweaters $55K plus. Please fax resume Attn: Mr. G *Spec Tech-Prod’n, Time&Action $35-53K Est’d childrenswear co seeks an *Spec Tech-Childrens Toddler/Preteen $35K Production Coordinator energetic and organized receptionist 212-869-2781 Large childrenswear company seeks TECH DESIGN ASST *Spec Tech-Sweaters $35K for fast paced office/showroom. If you [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 production coordinator to track deliveries are a reliable, out-going team player Sales Assistant Major intimate apparel manufacturer from overseas factories. Good computer with the ability to multi task, let’s talk. NY showrm-Fast paced growing acces- seeks tech design assistant for midtown and communication skills necessary. Also Good benefits package. sory co. to assist sales team. Exp req. location. Must be organized & detail seeking production coordinator for girls Pls fax resume: 212-695-3847 Attn: Jobs Comp. lit a must. Great Oppt. Sal/Benefits. SPEC TECH oriented. Responsible for fit approvals, division to communicate with factories. or email: [email protected] Email Res: [email protected] Fast Paced Women’s Spts Co seeks creating & revising specs. Fax resume Must be organized and detail oriented. exp/ professional spec tech. Excellent & cover letter including salary req. to: Fax resume 212-239-2766 knowledge of garment construction, Attn. Design (212) 684-3254 or email grading, fittings and ability to develop [email protected] Receptionist/Fit Model specs, a must. Candidate must be For Midtown denim manufacturer. Senior Designer $60-100K detail oriented, excellent communica- Duties to include basic clerical tasks, Girls 7-16. Young Edgy Look. Asia Exp A+ tor, organized, ability to focus, and be Tech Design Production Coordinator showroom reception & assisting during [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 a team player. Computer literate. Large childrenswear company has posi- market weeks as fit model. Measurement: Benefits. Please fax to: 212-253-5710 SR/JR TDS for Jr, tion available to follow up w/ Wal-Mart, 5’7”, size 8 - Bust 36 1/2, Waist 29 1/4 , Hip 39 1/4 Msy, Plus Sportswear Target, JCP accts and overseas Please fax resume to: (212) 221-8135 Woven & cut & sew knits with 3+ yrs factories. Must be familiar with CTL exp. Approve fit & construction, spacing, approval procedures. Bilingual in grading, follow-up, daily comm w/ over- Chinese/English preferred. 2-3 yrs exp. seas via fax/email. Maintain tech pack- Fax: (212) 967-8631 att: Rose RECEPTIONIST Major apparel company seeks well organ- ages concept through production. ized individual to manage the front Knowledge of pattermaking, Excel, desk and day to day administrative duties. Outlook a must. Must have excellent phone manner Production Development and desk appearance. Tech Design Asst Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Prepare design/spec sheets for fit ses- Assistant sions, In/out smpl tracking A/W spec Home textile import co. seeks Assistant sheets, daily follow-up and date entry. Lead Designer and Merchandiser in RETAIL OPPORTUNITIES!! Min 1 yr exp preferred. preparing & organizing presentations. Merch Planners - Nationwide to $100K Fast paced environment, knowledge of Product Devel Mgrs - NY to $125K Both positions require you to be organ- product development. Detailed strong HR/College Recruiter - NY to $80K ized and detail oriented team players. follow-up. Written & Verbal Chinese. Send Resumes to [email protected] Able to fit in a fast paced environment. Please fax resume to: (212) 481-2241 call 954-351-1112 Pls fax resume to Annie: 212-400-1288 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 23, 2005 19 WWD.COM

the U.S. and European Union to their cotton farmers make it difficult for Africa to compete in one of the few sectors where it has natural advantages, including large WTO Renews Trade Talks amounts of arable land and low wages. Anger over the issue had led a group of poor nations to walk out of the Cancún trade talks in September 2003, bringing that summit to a premature end. Following By John Zarocostas that meltdown, the WTO in July agreed to address the subsidy issue “ambitiously, ex- peditiously and specifically.” GENEVA — World Trade Organization talks on the role of cotton subsidies and their People familiar with the situation said the panel’s new agenda, due to be released impact on poor African nations got back on track Tuesday after the U.S. backed down this week, will focus solely on the subsidy issue. from a demand that the negotiations be broadened to include other textile issues. Samuel Amehou, Benin’s ambassador to the WTO, said in a phone interview, “What Early this month, the WTO ruled that the U.S.’s Step 2 cotton program, which in- is sure is that the U.S. and the EU have to solve this subsidies issue. If it’s not, we face cluded $2 billion in annual payments, was in violation of global trade rules that regu- a traumatic situation in West Africa on cotton.” late how governments use domestic and export subsidies. The African countries are The U.S. delegation did not take the floor to directly address the change, according pushing to abolish the use of all cotton subsidies by all nations. to sources. The negotiations had been in a holding pattern since last month, when the U.S. Separately, Benin — backed by Burkina Faso, Kenya and Senegal — blasted com- asked that the agenda be revised to include other aspects of textile trade. That re- ments by the EU delegation that the 25-nation bloc did not plan to contribute to a pro- quest provoked ire among some African negotiators, who want the issue of cotton sub- posed transitional cotton fund, which is intended to help the West African nations sidies to get prompt attention. Many African nations contend that subsidies paid by handle the effects of the subsidies as long as they remain in place.

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN Retail Sales Associate Madison Avenue Boutique seeks outgo- ing, bright, energetic individual for SALES ASSOCIATES retail store. Must have experience, Wearerecruiting Sales Associates for our strong selling skills, and be computer Flagship Store in New York with sales savvy. No phone calls please. Fax experience in high-end luxury shoes, resume/salary history to: 212-650-0469 accessories and apparel. Candidate will be responsible for meeting targeted SCOOP "The Ultimate Closet for Men/Women" is rapidly growing!! sales goals, customer development and We are seeking qualified candidates for the following positions: customer service follow through. Competitive compensation/benefits Womenswear Buyer, 3-5 yrs exp. High End Boutique package offered. Please send resume to: High end men’s and women’s boutique FAX: (212) 751-9126 Childrenswear Buyer, 3-5 yrs exp. in Meat Packing District is looking for Assistant Buyer, 2+ yrs exp. a sales associate. Responsibilities in- clude assisting customers and main- E-Commerce Creative Marketing Mgr, 3-5 yrs exp. taining daily store appearance. Good We offer a competitive Salary and Benefits Package. people skills and fashion sense a must. If interested, fax resume to 212.925.4440 or Fax resume to 212-924-3221 SALESPERSON The Chloe Boutique on Madison Avenue is email: [email protected] SALES ASSOCIATE looking for a dynamic and eager sales Leading French Designer seeks moti- person with excellent interpersonal vated, energetic, exp’d sales professio- and communication skills. A client nal for its Soho Flagship Store. Excel- book and two year’s experience in lent growth potential. Salary + Comm. designer retail is a must. Fax resume to: (212) 625-0553 Call Paula Pritchett @ (212) 717-8220

SALES MANAGER Tanzara International NYC based Int’l Beauty Company seeks •Tired of showing the same old Sales and Training Manager to drive National sales and training initiatives. line...? Position reports directly to Director of •Sick of hearing you can’t make Sales and Training. Travel is a Must. Please send your resume, cover letter the delivery or price work? of interest and salary expectations to: •Fed up with not getting your Fax: (212) 673-7402 or orders shipped? [email protected] Sport Bags & Women’s Handbags •Remember the days when you were excited to show the product? Sales Product Manager INDEPENDENT SALES REPS If you love to sell & have a minimum For garment related co. to coordinate of 5 years experience, we will approvals & relationships with clothing Tommy Hilfiger Handbags and Accessories, Inc. is retailers. Highly motivated & organized. Great Opportunity !!! provide everything else Exp’d but will train the right candidate. seeking experienced, Independent Sales Reps for our Est’d Imp Co. seeks aggressive/exp’d Hiring in Dallas, Miami and Chicago Sales Exec for Budget Price Missy/ (Missy/Petite/Large; all categories) 2005 Men’s and Women’s Sport Bag division. We are Plus Sizes Sptswr. Must have current We offer great Please fax resume to: (818) 444-4109 contacts w/ Speciality Chains/Mass Salary/Commission/Benefits! seeking enthusiastic and motivated individuals with Retailers and Pvt Label. Excellent broad specialty store contacts and regional market Sal/Comm & benefits. Please Fax your resume to Fred at: SALES PROFESSIONAL Please Fax Resume: 212-840-2796/ 212-921-1492 Email: [email protected] NEWPORT/JUNIOR WOMEN’S WEAR experience. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Major junior women’s wear Mfg Co., OTB jeanswear is seeking a highly moti- seeking a corporate sales executive Available territories include the Midwest, vated, energetic individual with 3-5 who has strong contact with Depart- REFERENCE POINT ment stores & Chain stores. Please fax years exp. in BOYS/ACCESSORY field. Jewelry Sales Reps Well established moderate junior knit- Northwest, Northeast and Southwest regions Individual must be organized & detail resume to: Mr. Kim @ 212-944-8319 or 50+ years fine jewelry designer / wear company seeks highly motivated e-mail: [email protected] oriented. Must possess strong selling manufacturer seeks Reps with showroom account executive. Must have exp with skills, good verbal and written commu- & strong following. References a must. department stores and chains. Fax Please E-mail resumes to: [email protected] nication skills. Some travel is required. Email: [email protected] resumes: 212-921-0097, Attn: Eddy or Please send resume and salary history to: email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Sales Fax: 212-629-7918 Public fashion co. seeks pro with 3 Outerwear SALES ASSISTANT year + experience selling bridge price or higher. Please email or fax resume to Up and coming Handbag Collection COUTURE SALES Major apparel company seeks sales asst. Independent Sales Rep. embraced by editorial press is seeking Couture Atelier seeking expert sales Sales Mgr./Merchandiser with 1-2 years experience. Individual will [email protected] / (212) 695-9483 Regional Sales Reps. Existing Specialty Minimum of 5 years experience. work closely with VP of Sales on man- Leading LA based textile co. with full representative with a strong clientele package capability seeking aggessive, Store relationships req’d. Commission following. Please fax resume to Strong relationships with dept. and aging retail accounts. Must have excellent Specialty chain stores. Excellent motivated person with good account based; TONS of opportunity for growth & (212) 239-3432 follow up and computer skills. SLS -KEY ACCTS -MODER GIRLSW’R to 75K revenue. High energy, excellent people Salary plus commission. Full Benefits. Fax resume (212)239-2766 relationship with manufacturers &/or Lge well respected co seeks sharp individ stores in the market. skills, and positive spirit are key! E-mail Fax Resume: 212-736-9265 or email to: resumes to: Exciting Opportunity!!! [email protected] to sell branded girls spts to department Please fax resume to: (213) 747-4149 [email protected] Established Women’s Handbag & Hat SALES EXECUTIVE stores. 4-5 yrs focused exp req’d. Accessory company seeks an aggressive, Better missy sweater co. seeks top-notch A.D. FORMAN ASSOC OUTSIDE SALES REPS experienced national salesperson. sales pro. with dept. stores connections 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 High - end eyewear co. seeks outside Please fax resume to: 305-596-4418 Private Label Sales and pvt label. Please fax resume to: Sales Reps for various US regions. CHILDREN’S 201-969-2844. Confidential. Must have exp. in the fashion or optical NY based Co. seeks highly experienced industry. Solid sales exp. travel req’d. FABRIC SALES aggressive seller for Private label sales. Sweater Sales Pro Fax resumes to (310) 452-9024 or Leading Basic & Novelty Circular Knit Co. Must have strong established contacts SALES EXECUTIVE Established Canadian Swtr Mfgr. E-mail: [email protected] seeks aggressive Salesperson. Must have with major retailers in newborn, infant Successful, trendy handbag co. seeks entering U.S. market seeks highly existing relationships that are looking &toddler. Ability to open and maintain self-motivated salesperson with chain/ motivated sweater exec. Must have strong Sales Rep - Jr/Contemp for custom fabric development. We offer new accounts. Strong negotiating skills. dept/specialty store knowledge. Min. of contacts with dept. stores and chains. L.A. based Jr & Contemp (woven & both domestic as well as imported solu- Salary + Commission + Benefits. 3-5 years exp. in handbag or related ac- Merchandising skills a plus. Great opp. for knit sweaters) mfr/importer seeking Production Manager tions to your customers’ needs. Flexible Please reply in strict confidence to: cessory sportswear market. Attractive the right ind. Salary commensurate w/ exp. sales rep in mod price range. All terri- Analysis: cutting, allocations. Schedule: compensation package. Fax resume to: Box #1021 WWD package with excellent benefits! Fax resume to 212-736-0165 or email tories are open. Please call Troy @ markers, fabric, factories. Costing, 212-564-0616 7 West 34th St., NY NY 10001 Fax resume to VP: 212-244-5897 [email protected] (213) 276-2237 or fax (213) 749-8126. trim, computer exp. Call 347-262-6159. WWDEXECTECH S.T.A.R. Power

Don’t miss being part of the First Annual Systems & Technology Achievements Retail Awards, presented by WWDExecTech and Retail Systems Alert Group.

WWDExecTech is now inviting nominations for the CIO/IT Leadership & Innovation Awards to be presented at the S.T.A.R. ceremony during Retail Systems Conference and Expo on May 25th in Chicago.

You can nominate an exceptional retail CIO or senior technology executive to be a S.T.A.R.

Who do you know who deserves to be recognized? Nominate him/her now! Log on to http://www.fairchildpub.com/tech to send us your nominations.

Deadline for Nominations: March 25

For more information on the awards, contact Denise Powers at [email protected]. For more information on advertising in the May issue, contact Tia Potter at 212-630-4844.