tokyo FEBRUARY 2013
Since 1970 weekenderJapan’s premier English language magazine
NAGASAKI Exploring the goto islands + 6 dishes you must try
KIMONO HOW TO PULL IT OFF
OPINION BEHIND JAPAN’S ORGAN SHORTAGE
EDUCATION READY FOR TOMORROW’S WORLD?
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: Top news from Asia Daily Wire, the future for online fashion, winter sports, movies, events and much more... Tokyo weekender-Ocak 2013.pdf 1 13.12.2012 12:08
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www.mandaraspa.com/hawaii FEBRUARY 2013 CONTENTS 16
THE HIDDEN CHRISTIANS On the Goto Islands, west of Nagasaki, we found a history not to be forgotten.
22 26 35
HUIS TEN BOSCH KIMONO GIRL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS The Netherlands has an intriguing outpost A little help getting it on, please? One Classroom robotics, “Tiger Mom” and the in an unlikely location near Nagasaki. school in Hiroo makes it easy. Tokyo educators looking to the future.
11 Asia Daily Wire 28 A Brush with History 46 Movies A roundup of all the top APAC news of the Who knew modern make-up techniques Top movies finally hitting the screens in past month. owed so much to Japanese traditions? Tokyo this month.
12 Hearts of Gold 30 The Future of Online Shopping? 48 Agenda Why is it so difficult to get a heart When a flash sale site leads the way in Some of the best nights out, art shows transplant in Japan? fashion, where are we heading next? and events this month. 20 Eating Nagasaki 33 Skiing with Kids 50 Back in the Day It’s not all about Castella and noodles There are many resorts around Japan A little look at how the Weekender saw down in Nagasaki. that make it easy for families... Valentine’s Day back in 1988. FROM THE EDITOR FEBRUARY 2013
tokyo sking around, Publisher Bulbous Cell Media Group FEBRUARY 2013 it was harder Chairman Ray Pedersen Since 1970 weekenderJapan’s premier English language magazine than I had Valentine’s Day Executive Producer Asi Rinestine thought it NAGASAKI EXPLORING THE GOTO ISLANDS would be to Editor Matthew Holmes + 6 DISHES YOU MUST TRY find friends or colleagues Art Director Liam Ramshaw KIMONO A HOW TO PULL IT OFF who’d already been to Designer Ayako Fujiwara Photographer Maaserhit Honda OPINION Nagasaki. Making my second BEHIND JAPAN’S ORGAN SHORTAGE trip there this month (lucky Media Director Kotaro Toda me) was something quite Account Executives Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa special and actually slightly Ohad Elbaz unexpected. It really is Masaya Okamoto a great city to explore and just stroll around – truly it’s Media Consultants Mary Rudow
EDUCATION somewhere you can get lost Society Bill Hersey READY FOR TOMORROW’S WORLD? without a guidebook and Marketing Ingrid Dubreuil ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: Top news from Asia Daily Wire, the future for online fashion, winter sports, movies, events and much more... always find something of interest around the next corner. We were seeking a story, though, and Film Christopher O’Keeffe key to that was actually doing some planning, getting off the mainland and heading to the gorgeous Goto Islands, home not only to the so-called Editorial Associate Vivian Morelli ‘Hidden Christians’ but also some of the most incredible landscapes - Matthew Hernon and seascapes - I’ve ever seen in this country. On our travels we met Asia Daily Wire Mace Bertumen many locals who taught us of the persecution of Christians I had some knowledge of and crucifixions I never knew had happened in Japan. We IT Manager Nick Adams met an American priest (look out on tokyoweekender.com for more on Development Manager Stephane Boudoux that story) and we spoke with passionate people directly connected to Finance & Admin Takako Nakahara history about how they are helping to keep traditions alive. Oh, and we DBA Iryna Sundutova also ate a lot of noodles... Take a look on pages 16-24 for more. I really do hope you have time to think about going there yourself. We know and speak to many of our readers who have children with them here in Tokyo and at this time of year, however old they are, many are thinking about their education and their future. We wanted EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 to meet some of the people who are innovating and doing things the Published by Bulbous Cell Media Group right way in some of the best international schools in town, and we www.bulbouscell.com think we actually found some interesting stories on the way. Whether that was the robotics classes we watched or the interesting angle on Published monthly at the Regency Shinsaka Building, 5th floor the “Tiger Mom” philosophy we heard, we think there’s something for 8-5-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 everyone; even if you don’t have kids. And if you just want to forget (03) 6846-5615 / (03) 6846-5616 (fax) about homework and the like, there’s always the Weekender guide to [email protected] skiing with the kids – on page 33. To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call Here’s a more serious question: what’s going to happen to your (03) 6846-5615 or email: organs after you die? It’s a question that we might not be as comfortable [email protected] with as we should be. Henry Watts writes on page 12 about the difficulty getting a transplant many people in this country face when illness or disease forces doctors to take the ultimate step. Some Japanese patients For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6846-5615 or email: even have to travel abroad – raising a lot of money privately to do so – [email protected] but does it have to be like that? There might be an answer. What with kimono classes, a discussion about the future of online www.tokyoweekender.com shopping with experts in Japan and more of the usual movie, event and society news, I really feel this issue is packed with content and we hope Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not you enjoy what we’ve put together for you. Lastly, to friends and readers necessarily those of the publisher running in the Tokyo Marathon this month, good luck – many of us will be there watching on Sunday 24th!
Follow Tokyo Weekender on Twitter: @weekenderjapan
Like us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/tokyo.weekender How about something a little special this Valentine’s Day
Grand Hyatt Tokyo is pleased A Valentine Amore accommodation plan is available starting 1 to feature a line-up of delightful February, allowing couples to enjoy a romantic stay while indulging offerings this Valentine’s Day, a with a bottle of chilled champagne, chocolates and fresh strawberries special time of the year to share in the comfort of one of our stylish guestrooms. This plan can also love and appreciation. Whether include a sumptuous dinner at Fiorentina. Our restaurants and bar looking for a romantic stay or a will also feature specials to enhance the romance. At Fiorentina, an charming chocolate gift, Grand Italian Valentine menu designed for couples offers a sumptuous Hyatt Tokyo will offer options dinner including welcome drinks, appetisers, pasta and a main dish, perfect for charming your loved all finished off with a delicious chocolate dessert. If you are looking for one. From 1-14 February at Fiorentina Pastry Boutique an a special lunch, try The Oak Door’s Valentine’s lunch with a welcome array of delicate desserts will be available, making perfect drink and a rose for the lady. For diners seeking a relaxed and Valentine’s gifts. The “Quore”, a sphere of chocolate filled with luxurious setting for the evening, bar Maduro’s delightful Valentine’s heart shaped sweets, debuts this winter, created by pastry chef Box will feature a 6-box plate with enticing tapas, dessert and 4 Kanako Yoshida, winner of the Boiron Pastry Competition 2012. beverages which can be enjoyed while listening to smooth live music.
ASIA DAILY WIRE | NEWS | 11
sia Daily Wire is your go-to place for all the latest news from across the Asia Pacific region. Covering business, culture, entertainment, Malala discharged from sports and breaking news, Asia Daily Wire is updated round the hospital, father clock in real time and picks and chooses the best headlines from vows to return Asources across Asia—doing all the hard work for you. Here is a roundup of home after some of the ADW Editor’s picks from the past month... recovery Malala Yousafzai, the 15-year old Pakistani Japan North Korea activist shot in the head by the Taliban, withdraws to allow has been discharged from a hospital in employees foreigners to the UK after making “excellent progress.” from Algeria bring their She will stay in the UK before undergoing amid rising mobile phones reconstructive surgery on her skull, the Queen Elizabeth Hospital in Birmingham death toll Foreigners said in a statement. Japan was the foreign country to suffer the visiting North Korea can now take their heaviest confirmed loss of life in the Islamist own mobile phones into the country in Journalists militant attack on a gas plant thought to a move that could see the reclusive state criticize Chinese have claimed a total of 69 lives. Outraged opening up after years of virtual isolation. censors in rare calls for answers came after the Algerian It was also reported that a mobile internet protest army stormed the complex without warning service will soon be available for visitors. Chinese journalists foreign governments. Boeing 787s openly criticized Workers hold grounded censors after an editorial calling for political managers worldwide reform was altered into a tribute to the hostage over after Japan Communist Party. Sixty journalists from the 2-minute toilet emergency influential Southern Weekly issued a letter breaks landing expressing their outrage over the changes and describing the censors as “tyrannical Hundreds of The Federal Aviation Administration ordered and stupid”. outraged Chinese factory workers held the indefinite grounding of all Boeing 787 their managers hostage for a day and a Dreamliners until the risk of possible battery China orders half in protest over timed bathroom breaks fires is fixed. Two major safety incidents children to visit and fines for being late. “They demanded linked to possible faulty batteries forced aged parents the scrapping of ridiculously strict ANA and JAL to suspend the use of their new Officials have requirements stipulating workers only have fleets as investigators looked for answers at a ordered adult two minutes to go to the toilet,” a security factory in the UK. children to visit guard said. Kim Jong- and take care of their parents “often” or risk China to un sends being taken to court under an amendment abolish “birthday to China’s law on the elderly. Legislators controversial candy” to each added a clause allowing parents who feel labor camp child in North neglected to sue their children. Earlier this system Korea month, a son reportedly forced his 90-year old mother to live in a pigpen for two years, China’s hugely Kim Jong-un has reportedly sent 1kg of state media said. controversial forced labor camp system will sweets to every child in the country to be abolished this year, a senior legal official mark his birthday, continuing a tradition said on Monday. State media quoted officials carried out by leaders before him. saying that a key meeting had agreed to Youngsters “exploded with joy” at the For all the big news of 2013 tightly limit the use of the scheme – known as “birthday candy” which was airlifted to all updated live, visit: laojiao – until it could be scrapped by China’s children under 10, said the North Korean www.asiadailywire.com parliament in March. Central Broadcasting Station. 12 | OPINION | HEALTH
returns to his rural hometown in Yamagata and gets a job dressing up the dead for the so- called “gate to the next stage.” Some of these rituals, although more prominent in rural areas, are still prevalent in Japan. But as comes with the all-inclusive nature of Shinto and Buddhism, there is no telling whether the Japanese follow these rituals merely out of deference to tradition, or because they really wish to make offerings to gods seemingly more preoccupied by the purity of souls than the plight of the living. Of course, discussions on the soul are a murky business at the best of times. Beliefs in animism, such that can be found in Japan, Why did a Japanese baby have to raise claim the existence of souls in animals and even inanimate objects – posing problems for dieticians and mechanics alike. over $1.8 million to live? Religious speculations aside, the brain death criteria can still be hard to take for by Henry Watts many. Any grieving family would naturally ast month, Aoi Yoshida, a 21-month- At the core of the skepticism felt in Japan resist being told to give up on a loved one old girl with dilated cardiomyopathy, towards the practice is a discomfort with the that looked alive. They would see the beating weakening and enlarging her heart, diagnosis of ‘brain death’ (death due to the heart and not the machine pumping it. Of exceeded the ¥165 million target irreversible loss of brain stem function) course, this is true anywhere and does (approx. $1,840,000) needed for or death even though the body not, on its own at least, offer Lher to travel to the US and get the transplant is kept warm and the heart an explanation for Japan’s that would save her life. No, that’s not a typo. is sustained by mechanical particular resistance to In fact, she finally received roughly $2 million support. This diagnosis brain death criteria. in donations, mainly from charities and is critical for organ The public backlash philanthropists in Japan. The leftover money will transplants because most against the first (and probably not be returned to sender, but will likely organs, including the most notorious) heart be passed on to other children in Japan who, like heart and liver, start to transplant in Japan in Aoi, must rely on foreign organs for even a slim deteriorate after the heart 1968 might explain chance at life. stops beating, reducing something though. With the 2010 abolition of laws that the chances of an organ After Dr. Juro Wada disqualified children under 15 from becoming surviving a transplant. diagnosed a patient as organ donors, there is admittedly more hope for Biomedical ethicists brain dead, he ended up Japanese children now than there was previously. in Japan, Atsushi Asai in a murder trial, accused But in the two years since the change in law, et al, have written of how of cutting short medical only two children in Japan have received organ culturally unacceptable the care in order to harvest transplants at home. In reality, organ transplants brain death diagnosis is for Japan. organs. The case was eventually remain limited to those Japanese families who They cite Shinto conceptions of life and death dismissed on the basis of the opinions of can afford to cut in line overseas, or those who and the animistic belief that gods reside in all medical experts and due to inadequate can arouse enough public sympathy to things. For many Japanese, he claims, medical records, but what followed was a win massive donations. the possibility that a soul might be 30-year moratorium on cadaveric organ Japan’s 2012 figure of located in an “alive” body (even transplants and a clear expression of distaste 303 organ transplants is an if artificially alive) is reason at the whole procedure. improvement, but is tiny in enough to deny the diagnosis Since permitting the brain death diagnosis comparison to other developed of a legal death and the and extending it to children (in 1997 and 2010 countries. In the UK, for subsequent harvesting of respectively), it seems Japan is moving in the example, there were 3,960 that patient’s organs. right direction, albeit at a typically glacial transplants during 2011-12. In their Arguments pace. Cases such as Aoi Yoshida’s must surely In Japan, only 115,377 people Against Promoting Organ do more than open up Japanese wallets. are registered as organ Transplants from Brain Dead There are thousands of people worldwide on donors, compared to over Donors, Atsushi et al point the waiting list for organ transplants, and it 18.5 million in the UK. out that the Shinto tradition of is becoming increasingly urgent that people It’s not for lack of demand Mogari prohibits transplants and everywhere make a decision regarding the – there are estimated to be subsequent autopsies, even if future of their organs after they have passed. over 13,700 people currently cardiac death occurs, because “it Whatever your belief system may be, know on the transplant waiting list is necessary to observe the corpse that this is a real and invaluable chance to here in Japan. Of course, most for a period of time to confirm the save a human life. countries struggle with their own lack complete departure of the soul.” of supply for organ transplants, but the Such ritualizing of death in Japan For more information in English see the scale of Japan’s deficit and the relative lack can been seen at its most rigorous in Japan Organ Transplant Network: of awareness on the issue is something very the 2008 Academy Award-winning Japanese www.jotnw.or.jp/english peculiar to Japan. film, Departures, which is about a man who
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THE HIDDEN CHRISTIANS OF NAGASAKI by Matthew Holmes
nly a few hundred yards away from the ferry The name of the area literally means “five islands” and that has brought us to Nakadori Island we find though we are on the largest of the group, as we meander ourselves out of its sight, driving along with thick towards our first stop around a new coastal road, in and out forest to our right and the ocean to our left. of natural harbours and inlets with aquarium blue waters OThe Goto Islands lie around 100km to the west of Nagasaki that only uninhabited islands and the nets of yellowtail city and it has taken us around two hours to get here. The farmers interrupt, it is clear there are many more. In fact, journey, passing signs of local culture, history and industry we learn as we drive that there are 140 – some mere rocks, and underneath Megami Ohashi, the longest suspension some covered in vegetation. Small boats chug in and out in bridge in Kyushu, led us away from the spectacular coastline calm waters that are rich, we are told, with all manner of and out into the open water with nothing on the horizon shellfish and that are the lifeblood of the area. but the occasional tanker, perhaps heading back to the Finally we reach Fukaura bay, part of the reason we’re Mitsubishi shipyard for repairs. A scattering of people here. We want to learn why the so-called Hidden Christians heading to do business joined us but our companions on – the kakure Christians – had come here when disguising the ferry had mostly been families returning home, some their faith lest the rulers of Japan kill them. snoozing with their cars beneath in the hold, and a young Francis Xavier introduced Christianity to Japan in 1549 girl with a box of Kentucky Fried Chicken as souvenir of and Jesuit missionaries soon spread the word further than the mainland. We sure knew we were heading somewhere the area around Nagasaki that had become the doorway to remote, with a people far removed from the city. explorers. In 1614, though, the Tokugawa Shogunate, after NAGASAKI | TRAVEL | 17
1 Sakai shows us the book – it’s tucked under the boat’s helm. He reads aloud from Latin script written in Katakana but doesn’t need to
look at it to know 2 3 4 his place
Hideyoshi Toyotomi had expelled missionaries, Photos 1 and 3 courtesy of Kamigoto City outlawed a flourishing Christianity. Believers were persecuted, many were crucified and as the sakoku policy (which prohibited private trade with foreign countries) intensified, priests were suppressed, depriving remaining believers of any leadership. Until the Meiji government lifted the ban on Christianity some 250 years later, there was thought to be no public worship. But when, in 1865, Christians visited Oura Cathedral, in Nagasaki City, they told a tale that would Below: Statue of Ryoma Sakamoto looks out to sea 1 Kiri Church and Bay shock. Many had lived secret lives, disguising 2 Mr. Sakai explains the Oratio 3 Kashiragashima Church, the only stone their religion – sometimes with statues of the church in Nagasaski 4 Takahama beach, Fukue Island. Virgin Mary disguised as a Buddhist deity – and practicing underground. These were the hidden Sakai holds on to inherited statues of when he is 60, I will pass it on to him and I hope Christians, and they numbered many. Rosario and of Jesus that will not see the light he will remember the time he was three and my We met Yoshihiro Sakai, the last in the line of of day in public. “They are almost 500 years father in law took him on his rounds.” His son kakure Christians who spent generations on the old,” he tells us. “It was only when my relatives seems resistant, Mr. Sakai says, to allow these facts Goto islands after many fled here in secret, and he passed them to me that I really knew. My into the open. When he inherits the priesthood he agreed to take us out on his fishing boat and tell father-in-law did not speak of his faith. After will once again shield it. us more. I found out I realized why he’d had so many We spend two days exploring the island by The hidden Christians are thought to have visitors on Sunday mornings over the years!” In car, visiting many of the 29 remote churches numbered about 3,000 in 1797, in the late Edo some ways, though, Sakai has led a more open – World Heritage sites amongst them – that period, each living their lives publicly as farmers life than his forefathers. serve communities to this day. The quiet, and fishermen but privately devoting their He tells us of the Oratio – the Christian modest buildings, fusing Japanese and western prayers and indeed lives to Christianity. Mr. prayer that has not changed since the architecture, are said to reflect the hardships of the Sakai took us to an isolated “Christian Cave” on missionaries brought knowledge of it in the periods of persecution. We visit martyrdom sites Shirasaki, Wakamatsu Island in which one family 1500s. Sakai knows it by heart but worries that and learn of a culture unique in the world, not only had hidden amongst rocks, fearing persecution it cannot now be so easily passed on so has done in Japan, hearing many stories on the way. until smoke from their fire gave them away. something that until now would have been A wild boar scuttled out of the bushes as we A statue of Jesus looks out from the spot, unthinkable: he’s written it down. Sakai shows walked down from the oldest church on the island which receives many visitors and has us the book – it’s tucked under the boat’s helm. to the cemetery by the beach and our guide tells us become a sacred site. He reads aloud from Latin script written in that the creatures outnumber people on the islands. Sakai married into the family. He Katakana but doesn’t need to look at it Around 20,000 humans live here and we go on to tells us that his father-in-law “was a to know his place. He explains discuss more the area’s current relationship with priest for around 50 or 60 years, he that in the knowledge Christianity. There are around 5,000 Christians was a veteran. And he was a seventh of this prayer many on the island – around 25% of the population – a generation hidden Christian.” He Christians, who could number that is particularly surprising when lived his life as a yellowtail farmer in not obtain sacred images compared to the ratio in the rest of Japan, around the bay but when he reached old age or iconography, found their 1% is the figure most often officially used but it is could keep his secret no longer. “He faith could continue. thought to be lower. passed it to his relatives but when His son is now 33 and he hopes In 2015, the 150th anniversary of the “discovery they reached their mid-80s they the family line of priests will be of Christians” the Churches and Christian Sites came to me and asked if I could allowed to continue with him. For in Nagasaki will, locals hope, be inscribed as a inherit the tradition as my son was now, though, he is working and often UNESCO World Heritage Site. Something that was too young, and I accepted.” not on the island. “When he retires, once so secret and hidden should never be lost.
www.tokyoweekender.com FEBRUARY 2013 18 | TRAVEL | NAGASAKI
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3 1 The hotel’s lobby welcomes 2 Suite room with an ocean view 3 The spacious dining room at Sky & Sea Crossroads 4 Sunset from the spa.
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Sunrise to Sunset At the Margherita, Goto Islands Resort Hotel
t didn’t take us long to realize that our trip to the Goto options are plentiful and you can choose between Japanese or Islands would be worth more than a couple of days. When Western style breakfast to get you going in the morning. The we found Margherita – a newly opened resort hotel that dining room at the restaurant, called Sky & Sea Crossroads, has sits, with the ocean on both sides, on the southernmost the feel of a country kitchen and its furniture, we hear, was peninsula of mountainous, crucifix shaped Nakadori styled on the simplicity of that in a nunnery; whatever it was Iisland, 100km west of Nagasaki city – we found even more they’re aiming for, it worked for us. reasons to stick around. Walking through the hotel we found the whole aesthetic to We loved the small details – the first we spot when all checked be fairly minimal but somehow warm and inviting. Boutique- in is a cute note on the pillow with sunrise and sunset times: nice style wooden fittings surround a cozy corner between the to know should we have had time to head to the open-air spa for lobby and our rooms that serves as a lounge/library, holding the latter, but as it happens, we had dinner plans and proper many English books on design and travel. Again there is rustic, relaxation would wait until the next day. country-style furniture and the area seemed a perfect place to Firstly we wanted (and needed after an enjoyable but tiring sit and contemplate, or perhaps plan the next day’s activities. day of exploration!) to find out more about the Italian inspired Floor to ceiling windows throughout draw the eye towards dishes – made almost exclusively with ingredients from the local the ocean, which seems just a few steps away, and with each Kamigoto area – our hosts had promised. Local even down to, room or suite having a balcony from which to admire the view again, the small details; even camellia oil chef Masahiko Kumagai at closer quarters over coffee, this really felt like our home on had drizzled on our lightly cured ham was made from the seeds the island – one we’d return to in an instant. of flowers from the island. We chose one of the fine looking set courses: grilled Goto beef was the culmination of a well rounded Margherita, Goto Islands Resort Hotel selection involving two fish courses as well as a sharp soup, home Address: 1074-1 Kogushi-go, Shin-Kamigoto- baked bread and perfectly tangy seafood pasta – each dish doing cho, Minamimatsuura-gun, Nagasaki its best to remind us where we were whilst clearly showcasing Tel: 0959-55-3101 (8:30–18:30) the talents of the Italian-trained team behind the pass. A la carte Web: www.margherita-resort.jp
FEBRUARY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com NAGASAKI | TRAVEL | 19 THE CITY WHERE EAST MEETS WEST hile we think a trip to Goto Islands is more than worth the relatively in 1571 and many British, Dutch and Chinese visitors have traded produce, easy flight from Tokyo to Nagasaki (and scenic ferry ride) we are knowledge and culture over the years. Among major attractions there are Wsure that should you make the trip you’ll spend a fair bit of time many secrets a walk around the city’s streets will reveal and from wherever on the mainland. Nagasaki city has an atmosphere removed from every other you stay you’ll be able to find something of interest within just a few minutes. city in Japan thanks to years of foreign influence – the Portuguese first visited Here are some of our highlights:
DEJIMA Memorial to the 26 uring the 200-year martyrs period of national ite of the Martyrdom of the 26 isolation Dejima was D Saints of Japan. The cruxifixion a window for foreign trade; of 20 Japanese Christians and six it was built in 1636 to isolate S foreign missionaries occurred on this Europeans and prevent the hill near what is now Nagasaki station spread of Christianity. Now Nagasaki has enveloped what was once in 1597. The Pope would later canonize an island but the city has restored most of the buildings (in an ongoing them – in 1862 – and in 1962 Jesuits project) and each of the houses, warehouses and guard stations now built a monument and museum here in holds fascinating period reconstructions and museum pieces. their memory. Churches and Oura Cathedral he old belfry of the now rebuilt Urakami Church sits where it smashed down to Tearth during the catastrophic events of 1945 and walking around the whole area is a constant reminder of the past. There is hope, though – consider a trip to Sanno Shrine and you’ll see a one-legged torii arch that has been restored retained as a reminder. Oura Cathedral (pictured) was built in 1864 and is the oldest wooden Gothic style church in Japan.
Glover Garden nce home to the pioneers of trade with Japan. They made their money and chose perhaps the best perch in the city to build Otheir western-style houses – the first of their sort in Japan. The complex is full of fascinating windows into the past and wonderfully restored architecture of the day. It’s a great spot from which to learn the history of Nagasaki and its part in the planning of Japan as an open nation. Thomas Glover (his house is pictured) was a Scot and amongst other things brewed beer. His brewery was the predecessor of the Kirin Beer Co. and some say the ‘moustache’ that you can across the face of the dragon-like beast on the label of today’s cans is ‘his’.
Peace Park/Nagasaki Gunkanjima Atomic Bomb Museum his is actually Hashima, though the abandoned island looks so much like a he iconic Peace Statue, designed by local sculptor battleship, particularly in silhouette, that Seibo Kitamura, forms the centre of the park and T many know it by its nickname. In 1974, after points towards the sky to “symbolize the nuclear T petroleum had destroyed the viability of coal menace.” Its flat, outstretched other hand allows us to mining across Japan and work beneath the island consider “eternal peace” and slightly closed eyes express stopped, scores left and for 35 years nobody a prayer for the souls of each of the victims. Around returned. Now, tours to viewing platforms on the 70,000 lights illuminate the minimalist Memorial Hall edges of the island from Nagasaki port are easy to nearby; the same number of people lost their lives after arrange. See it to believe it, but this was once said the bombing and up until the end of 1945. to be the most densely populated area in Japan.
www.tokyoweekender.com FEBRUARY 2013 EAT Nagasaki 6 dishes you have to try in Nagasaki
ou’ve got to eat. And in Japan you won’t go far without someone proudly telling you – or hundreds of colorful signs exclaiming – just what their local speciality is. NagasakiY and its surroundings are of course no exception, so we have rounded up six dishes (each a key local meibutsu – famed local products of a region) you must try while you’re there, and some reasons why we loved them!
Goto udon “It’s like a kind of wafu (Japanese style) carbonara,” says our local companion of one of the ways we’re taught to dip our thin local udon noodles on Nakadori Island. As we watch them boil in a cast-iron pot in the middle of the table we mix finely chopped negi (scallions) with katsuobushi (fish flakes) and an egg in the small pot that awaits their arrival a few minutes later. Then dip them we do – the steaming noodles kind of half cook the egg and, with a dash of soy sauce we found each mouthful to be satisfying and creamy, with a more delicate flavour than expected. Yes, it kind of is like Carbonara and definitely one to try and replicate back home. Try it at: Lunchtime for us on Nakadori Island meant a trip to Yumezanmai (428-31 Arikawago, Shinkamigoto-cho) and we were advised there’s nowhere better to try the dish. The restaurant was busy with regulars and fishermen as well as the odd local tourist and the adjacent gift shop has what seems like hundreds of options, each made by a different local farmer/maker, for those wishing to take some noodles home. Local stock made from flying fish – calledagodashi – is also popular.
Shippoku Ryori
hat do you get if you cross European, Chinese and Japanese cooking? In Nagasaki, the answer is Shippoku, a blend unique to the city. The local cosmopolitan character and history of welcoming immigrants is usually Wevident throughout what seems a fairly Chinese style banquet setting; courses are presented at once and guests are truly treated well. You could spend a fortune or go for something mid-range but whichever you choose, you’re in for a feast. Steamed snapper may come with egg dumplings in soup, you’re likely to see sweet beans, crispy fried shrimp toast, pickles, sashimi and plenty more in your lacquer ware dishes. Often the star of the show, though, is kaku ni, a well-marbled square of pork belly that at first looks pretty Chinese but which is simmered very slowly with Japanese staples – the mirin/soy sauce/dashi/sake combo – and served with a sharp portion of karashi mustard to cut through the fat. Try it at: Hamakatsu (Tel: 095-826-8321; www.sippoku.jp) which will cater to your hunger/budget with whatever kind of course you fancy. We visited early on a Friday evening and its large tatami room was full of locals - always a good sign.
FEBRUARY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com NAGASAKI | TRAVEL | 21
Nagasaki Champon CASTELLA
EAT Nagasaki h, noodles in a broth. What part of Asia doesn’t efore you taste it, you might have its version? Each area has put its own spin see keyrings, mobile phone on the classic combo and Nagasaki is, famously, straps, T-shirts, mascots and no exception. The mid-Meiji period saw a glut plenty of pictures devoted to of Chinese students heading to the city and one the celebration of castella – on restaurantA – so it says – saw the opportunity to create a cheap Bthe steep hill you’ll walk up on your way and filling meal for them; Shikairō in fact still exists butis to Glover Garden there’s even a Castella slightly more likely to cater to crowds of tourists at the Glover Shrine. All this for what is basically just Garden than those seeking authenticity. Cooks shred and a sponge cake seems a little over the top spread cabbage, bean sprouts, mushrooms, pink and white but it really is rather nice, and you can’t kamaboko (fish paste) and plenty of other seasonally available come without at least taking some home seafood and meat (usually shrimps, sometimes shellfish such as the must have Nagasaki omiyage. You’re as oysters and often both chicken and pork) and place it all right if you think the name sounds more atop noodles that are cooked in the broth itself. Try it at: There European than Japanese – it comes from are many great spots around the city. Word of mouth led us to the Portuguese spoken by merchants from an enjoyable lunch at Mantoku, on the outskirts of Chinatown that country who first brought the bread/ near Nishihamanomachi streetcar station and we were later cake that inspired it in the 16th century. pleased to have discovered that even Botan, at Nagasaki Airport, was not simply catering to a captive audience – it was SARA UDON good, with an earthy soup (was that the mushrooms?) that made us want to stay a few more days. plate of noodles, literally. So what’s so special? In the whole grain wheatiness of the crispy noodles that sitA under various stir-fried Chinese style vegetables and seafood staples we found a hearty and satisfying lunch. These are almost as popular as champon (in fact you can substitute for the thicker noodles usually in that broth for a kind of hybrid in many places) and it’s not difficult to spot a good location. Ever seen Ringer Hut in Tokyo? The chain hails from Nagasaki, serves both of these dishes and is named after Fredrick Ringer, an Englishman who was influential in the booming Nagasaki of the late 19th century (he helped develop a mechanical flour mill, petroleum storage and a steam laundry system). His Ringer House – with a roof the Hut mimics – was built within the Glover Garden in 1865. If ever you can dine at a chain without feeling you’ve copped out... Try it at: See above!
European & American
ll this European influence is not necessarily mixed with Asian cuisine. Nagasaki is a great place to eat non-Japanese food: from fairly traditional trattoria serving pizza and the like to French style bistros taking advantage of their location with a focus on fresh seafood to go with imported wine, most visitors will find somethingA they like. There are many upscale hotels in the city, some of which have restaurants with a view over the harbour from high-rise buildings or their perches on the hills surrounding the city and a string of seafood restaurants overlook the port nearby Nagasaki Prefectural Art Museum. Try it at: NY Dining at the Best Western Premier offers courses using famous Nagasaki beef cooked either western or Japanese style in a Manhattan-inspired setting overlooking almost the whole of Nagasaki bay. Have a plan: many restaurants close earlier than in Tokyo or will be full by the time you head for dinner if you go out much after 7pm. (Pictured, steak at Margherita – see p. 18)
www.tokyoweekender.com FEBRUARY 2013 22 | TRAVEL | NAGASAKI
Huis Ten Bosch The Netherlands Come to Nagasaki
by Matthew Hernon
ichael Palin, star of Monty visiting one of Europe’s most popular destinations, Python, said of Huis Ten Bosch but it sure is remarkably close and does give people – a huge waterfront theme park in this country an opportunity to get a small taste in the southern part of Sasebo, of a different culture without having to travel Nagasaki that is modeled on a thousands of miles. An interesting concept no 17thM century Dutch town – “this is the apotheosis of doubt, but how exactly did a place like this end up the Japanese talent for imitation and creation.” It’s being built in such a remote area of Japan? easy to see why. It was following a visit to Europe in 1979 that When taking a walk around the place, even founder, Yoshikuni Kamichika, first came up with just looking at these pictures we see European- the idea. The beauty of the Mediterranean Sea style architecture, colourful gardens with seasonal apparently enchanted him and he was reminded of flowers, iconic windmills and quaint canals, and a place much closer to home, called Omura Bay, that visiting the area feels almost as if you have been he felt was being underused and indeed wasted. It transported to the picturesque rural Netherlands. was a perfectly scenic location and he wanted to It might not be quite the same as actually take advantage of it. NAGASAKI | TRAVEL | 23
1 facilities for children, such as the haunted house and mirror maze. The Thousand Sunny Cruise, meanwhile, allows children to have their photo taken with popular members of the animation series, while feeling a sea breeze on deck. On top of all the kids and historical stuff, there is also a range of classical and modern museums, a number of speciality goods shops – including a Dutch cheese market – as well as an assortment of other attractions that you may be surprised to find. It really is quite an eclectic mix, meaning that whatever your age or interest, you 3 should find something you can enjoy at Huis Ten Bosch. Huis Ten Bosch is constantly adding new attractions so be sure to check them out for yourself nearer the time of your visit.
ILLUMINATIONS Until March 10 (and between autumn and spring every year) you’ll be able to enjoy The Kingdom of Light. More than 10 million
1 The Kingdom of lights 2 Hotel Europe at night 3 light bulbs illuminate the park, European style cuisine is available in the Club Lounge. covering windmills, flower fields 2 and buildings and lining the canals Intrigued by the Netherlands and exhibits from around the world giving you a spectacular reason its tradition of reclaiming land along with Japan’s largest mural to visit Huis Ten Bosch in winter. from the sea and developing it, dome, which took renowned Dutch Check the website for more details he decided to create a Dutch style artist Rob Scholte and his team four of the many other seasonal events. town in Omura Bay that would pay years to complete. homage to the unique historical ties Other standout imitations in Where to stay Nagasaki had with the Netherlands. the park are the De Liefde, the There are a number of hotels During the Edo period, an artificial first Dutch ship to arrive in Japan, within the grounds of Huis Ten island named Dejima was built in and the Domtoren (Dom Tower) of Bosch. Hotel Europe is an elegant Nagasaki and for a time only the Utrecht, which is the tallest tower canalside hotel steeped in pride Dutch were permitted to trade with in Holland, standing at 105m, and and tradition, Hotel Amsterdam Japan during its period of national which has an 80m observation is refined hotel built to look like isolation. It was a partnership that platform providing panoramic a middle age Dutch town and the proved profitable for both parties. views of the bay. Forest Villas are a home-away- Following the construction It is easy to soak up the culture from-home with lakeside views. of “Nagasaki Holland Village” in and architecture and forget you 1983, Kamichika decided that he are at an amusement park. There For more information, please wanted something on a grander are, though, a vast number of visit: english.huistenbosch.co.jp scale, leading to the opening of Huis Ten Bosch in 1993. Translated into English as the “House in the Forest,” it was named after Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands’ official residence, with a grand replica of her palace forming the centerpiece of the park. Built with special permission from the Dutch Royal family, it is a truly remarkable reproduction of the original Huis Ten Bosch. Baroque gardens with a variety of flowers – including of course tulips in spring – surround the Palace. Once inside you can see various
www.tokyoweekender.com FEBRUARY 2013 get up early enough to head to the 15th floor, a wonderful view of sunrise over the city to start your day in style. Dinner on the same floor, in the New York Dining grill restaurant and bar, could include anything from local steak to seafood and of course cocktails to round it all off perfectly. The hotel offers a shuttle service to the Mt. Inasa ropeway, about 1km away, which gives access to unrivalled views of the city and bay and can also arrange for you to visit an onsen on the same mountain. Mt. Inasa is worth a trip in the early evening; at the top of the ropeway, over 300m above the city, you’ll find a park and small visitor centre but the star of the show could well be the glass-walled viewing hall and café near the summit. The hotel is part of an exclusive group that is able to offer a discount card for sightseeing facilities in the city – ask at reception when you arrive and staff will advise you of the many offers, including half-price entry to most top tourist sights in the city.
Access: Nagasaki seems a small city and whether you arrive by bus, train or boat you can either walk around five or ten minutes to the hotel or take a short taxi ride to the front door where staff will welcome you. The hotel is ideally placed for visitors to access many top sites in the city, rom the moment you step inside the on the streets of Japan’s ancient capital, there’s whether that be by streetcar – the Takaramachi impressive marble-floored lobby of the a Japanese garden and pond outside – yes, stop is right outside – or on foot. Best Western Premier Nagasaki to the we’re still on the fifth floor – and also Kaname, moment you arrive at dinner on the 15th a restaurant with adjacent sushi bar that serves Best Western Premier Hotel Nagasaki Ffloor and take in the spectacular view, you’ll know local seafood and seasonal Japanese specialties. Address: 2-26 Takaramachi, Nagasaki you’ve made the right choice. The Japanese rooms on this floor are fit for tea Tel: 095-821-1111 | Email: [email protected] Each room, too, boasts a great view of the ceremonies and you’d never know you were Web: www.bestwestern.co.jp/english/nagasaki city – those facing south will look over towards the sitting in a modern building, such is the tranquil harbor and bay area towards Glover Garden on atmosphere and detail of traditional decor. the hills opposite and those facing north will be If you choose to stay in the hotel’s Executive able to spot the Peace Park and its surroundings Floor, though, everything will feel up to date. The leading up to the mountainous backdrop the city chic suites offer everything one would expect is so famous for. from a top class hotel, its rooms are spacious, There is a traditional western quality to the relaxing and perhaps most important, homely – hospitality throughout the hotel, but not so on the with more than a few touches of class. fifth floor. Take a walk down its corridors and you’ll A buffet style breakfast shows off local feel as if you are in Kyoto; the aesthetic is modeled dishes as well as western favourites and, if you NAGASAKI | TRAVEL | 25
www.tokyoweekender.com FEBRUARY 2013 26 | CULTURE | KIMONO KIMONO GIRL My Kimono Journey
by Vivian Morelli A kimono is in fact so intricate and complex that special classes any who come to live in Japan can are required to learn how to put explain why they were drawn to one on – don’t expect to just take the culture -– whether it was an it out of the closet and wrap it early interest in manga and anime, around you! martialM arts, or the language. For me, though, it When I signed up to try a was never quite that clear. kimono-dressing course, I had no I had always been attracted to Japanese idea what I was in for. Little did I culture, but I could not pinpoint my interest. Was know that it would take over an hour, it the mesmerizing photographs of Mount Fuji, several layers, about twenty different or of kimono-clad women I had seen in books? ties and two very kind and patient ladies Maybe the latter – fashion and clothing always to help me out. What I learned during that appealed to me, and the elegant ladies dressed in single session would normally take about kimono proved to be a source of fascination. twelve lessons or more to master, but despite how elaborate (and constricting!) the kimono can Kimono 101 be, it only made me want to learn even more and ankles without quite grazing the floor. Originally, kimono was the Japanese word do it all over again. Just when I thought as I was done after interchangeable with our ‘clothing’. In more recent nearly an hour and several tight ties later, it years, the word has been used to refer specifically So how does it feel to wear a kimono? was time to put on the obi - the most difficult, to traditional Japanese clothing worn mostly I had always wondered what women wore under but perhaps most beautiful part. The obi for special occasions: weddings, tea ceremonies their kimono but was too shy to ask. Thankfully, is a sash usually made of brocade, and the and other formal events. Sumo wrestlers also the lovely instructors at Inspire Space in Hiroo women’s obi is a very conspicuous accessory, wear kimono when appearing out in public and, made me feel so comfortable and they answered sometimes even more so than the kimono although they may not be quite as graceful as all my questions. I quickly found out that the robe itself. A fine formal obi might cost more those older women I sometimes see and admire dressing process begins with a special two-part than the rest of the entire outfit. This was the around the city, the garment is nonetheless a undergarment, in the form of a long, narrow most physically challenging part, as it requires gorgeous cultural token. skirt-like cloth and a loose-fitting top to coordination (which I lack) and strength to crisscross. After stripping down to pull it over your head and tie it at the back my underwear and putting on the by yourself. Learning how to tie the obi is Little did I special kimono underwear and another set of a dozen lessons, but luckily I know that it would tabi socks (ankle-high, divided- benefited from a peek at the technique. take over an hour, toe socks), I was ready to pile on all the other layers. At last, kimono-clad several layers, about Interestingly, the kimono The final knots and tucks were quite difficult, as twenty different ties silhouette requires a straight they secure and hold everything into place, but figure, so a few towels were the final result was absolutely stunning – I had and two very kind used around my waist to pad never felt so elegant in my whole life. Wearing and patient ladies to things up a little and conceal the kimono literally completely changes your the gap between my hips and demeanor. I felt so graceful and sophisticated help me out waist (I remember thinking at that and, to be honest, wearing such a rigid piece moment that I should freely indulge of clothing requires or rather generates those in more cakes, as I needed to fill out the qualities. There is even a special way to pose kimono!) Yet cakes may not be the best idea with the feet – slightly pointed inwards, even before putting on the garment, as everything has while walking. to be really, really tight. What ensued was a series Did you know there is even a special way to of layers, and about nine different ties (fundoshi), walk or even use the bathroom while wearing special butterfly knots and tucking procedures, the kimono? Luckily I didn’t have to find out, as and trying my best to follow and play copycat to I strutted around the room for a few minutes, the skilled instructor. Thankfully I had a stylist almost welling up at the thought of having to to my disposition and both instructors were take it off. The kimono had become a part of extremely patient, so everything went smoothly. me, after all the hard work and intricacy, and I With a kimono, it’s all about symmetry: from wanted to take it home. The experience was not the way the stitches touch one another when you only culturally enlightening, but also generally close the flap, to the way the patterns connect, or lifted up my spirits that day. I genuinely wished even the collar, which has to be pulled out just I could wear a kimono every day. enough to match the back. There’s lots to learn – for example one significant step to keep in Many thanks to Reiko Sito (owner) and Yayoi mind is the side on which you fold the garment; Richards from Inspire Space Hiroo. For more it should be the left over the right, unless you are information on the kimono dressing course, attending a funeral. The length of the kimono is or even for kimono rental or simply dressing, also of the utmost importance; it should cover the please visit: www.ishiroo.com
28 | CULTURE | CRAFTS A BRUSH WITH HISTORY Makeup from the City of Brushes
rofessional makeup artists Nowadays, despite modernization meaning effectively. To achieve the required brush around the world love them, the public wants more makeup than tip shape, workers use wooden holders but did you know that brushes calligraphy brushes, Kumano is still a called koma. Next comes the assembly, from makers such as Mizuho (if place where the hands of experienced when shaped hair is inserted into the you know make up, chances are craftspeople work with their ferrule (a fastener), then glue is Pyou’ve likely used one at some point) and hands to make brushes one applied to attach the ferrule Hiroshima Artist Brush Manufacturing are by one. Continuing with and hair tip solidly, and upholding traditional techniques passed brush-making techniques Makeup the brush is thoroughly down between craftspeople for hundreds of inherited from artists particularly washed. The last step years? generations of Kumano involves attaching fully The beginning of brush production in makers, Mizuho has covet Kumano cosmetic dried brush tops to the Kumano, Hiroshima prefecture, dates back become the most well brushes. They hold handle. The brush is to the Edo period, when farmers left the area known manufacturer inspected to ensure no to find work during the off season. When the and it handles all powder and apply loose or inferior hairs farmers returned home for the rice-planting stages of production remain, and is finally season, they were said to have bought writing from attaching hairs it onto skin very ready for the market. brushes and ink in the Nara region and made to handles, to their smoothly Makeup artists profits by selling them on the way home. inspection. Created as purely particularly covet Kumano These farmers then came up with the idea of a manufacturing company cosmetic brushes. They hold producing and marketing writing brushes of – most of its items are marketed powder and apply it onto skin very their own. and sold under other names – it recently smoothly, are soft to touch, comfortable to The techniques of brush making celebrated its third decade in the business, handle and deliver results. The brushes flourished in Kumano, which after a time creating quality handmade brushes that are for facial cleansing lather up very well – became known as the City of Brushes – at home in the hands of world-class artists synthetic hair can’t quite match this – and but this is not simply due to its industrial and that international brands recognize create extremely fine bubbles with a creamy heritage: even today locals produce 80% of all and recommend. smoothness. The brushes for cleansing painting, calligraphy The process has numerous steps: around the nose are perfect for wiping oil, and now make up starting with the task of combing hairs gently but thoroughly, from an area where brushes made neatly (many kinds of animal hairs pores are prone to becoming clogged. in Japan. are used in the Hiroshima Artist Brush Hiroshima Artist Brush Manufacturing Manufacturing brushes pictured, including and Mizuho brushes are a staple in the horse, weasel, deer, raccoon, pine squirrel, toolkit of professional makeup artists and goat, water badger, sable, and pony) beauty-savvy women, as a long history of and blending different types to achieve craftsmanship has evolved into a product customers’ requirements – think soft and of superb quality. This in turn has meant round for cheek definition, or precise and that the people of Kumano-cho, Hiroshima flat for eye shadow smudging. Once tips prefecture, can to this day thank brush have been carefully combed to remove loose making for much of the success of their local hairs – with a small knife called a hansashi economy. – experienced hands assure quality control and are able to recognize and remove loose by Vivian Morelli or inferior hairs. Although arduous and lengthy, this important step ensures that only the highest quality brushes reach market. The essence of the quality of a hand- made brush made in the traditional way, as JCRAFTS specializes in teaching you the opposed to by machine, is in its tip, which requires a high level of craftsmanship. One history and provenance of traditional of the secrets behind the brushes is that the products. To find out more, take a look at ‘natural’ tip of each hair is uncut, allowing the website. it to get into pores and remove dirt and oil Web: www.jcrafts.com/eg/shop WEEKENDER | ADVERTISING | 29
www.tokyoweekender.com FEBRUARY 2013 30 | BUSINESS | FASHION
are more likely to buy it again in the future. It is not an alternative to buying from a high street store.” Glusker describes it as being like “a conversation with brands.” Customers provide contact information so storeowners can follow-up with him/her in an attempt to make them regular shoppers. This is where Gilt has an advantage over a site like Groupon. The ‘deal-of-the-day’ company, which spurned the $6 billion advances of Google in 2010, has seen its stock price deteriorate rapidly in recent times (it is said to have lost 80% of its value since its initial public offering over a year ago), and one of the main reasons for this is that while it provides great deals for its users, it doesn’t offer much for merchants. As well as taking 50% of the sale, it doesn’t give any information about people that use the site meaning fewer retailers want to do business with them. THE FUTURE OF While Groupon struggles, flash sale sites such as Gilt Groupe thrive. Profits may not be increasing at the pace they once were and the initial buzz may have worn off, but long- online shopping? term prospects remain positive. According to Glusker, “there is further room for growth in ith shoppers becoming “We launch our sales at 9pm every Tuesday the industry as long as companies like ourselves more and more comfortable here in Japan and 75-80% of our products are continue to evolve.” Gilt has already expanded online, competition in the sold in the first 90 minutes,” says Gilt Japan in to homeware, travel and men’s and children’s e-commerce industry has President Peter Glusker. “It is first-come, first- fashion; it even has a gourmet food site called inevitably intensified in served and there is a time limit on how long you Gilt Taste. And it isn’t only customers who are recent years. Companies are constantly searching can hold things in your basket so there is no time W happy with the service: it was again Forbes that for innovative ways to give customers a good for hanging around.” noted Gilt’s success coming at just the right time experience while also – in an ever wallet-watching “Customers value it because it is an for retailers, who see their model as offering “a world – hoping to help them save cash. entertaining way to shop,” he adds, explaining brand-sensitive way to capitalize on the massive Amazon and eBay led the way in the late the system of email-announced sales. “It is a inventory supply glut following the onset of the nineties and 2000s and remain the two most different shopping experience to what people are recession.” powerful marketplaces in the world, whilst here used to as there is an element of surprise to it.” The evolution of the model and diversification in Japan, Rakuten – with around 80 million users This style of shopping has proved to be both and brand stretching that all businesses know is – is as much of a household name as any iconic enticing for customers and extremely profitable. necessary is as important as ever. We wonder department store. Competing with giants like these According to IBISworld estimates, the top US flash what will be next? may seem like a tough task, but that hasn’t stopped sale sites generated more than $2 billion in sales a whole host of smaller sites starting up over the last year. At the same time, things aren’t looking so by Matthew Hernon past few years to offer niche services and products. rosy for bricks and mortar shops, with a number The popularity of fashion ‘flash sale’ sites, in of high profile businesses having closed shops in particular, has flourished. Brands that some would 2012, particularly those in competition with the have seen as too expensive to buy at stores are now new breed of online rental and entertainment affordable and accessible thanks to the emergence companies. In January, high street music giant of companies such as Gilt Groupe, Ideeli, RueLaLa, HMV went in to administration and global rental Beyond the Rack and Haute Look. These sites offer chain Blockbuster placed its UK subsidiaries into a new online experience, with a limited time to the same state. find top-end items at heavily discounted prices. As financial concerns continue to grow, Customers compete with others, each desperate to more and more people turn to the web, where get their hands on that elegant party dress or must- they expect bargains. Retail expert Phil Wrigley have bag at a knockdown price. argues that the situation has become so bad It was New York fashion startup Gilt Groupe for high street stores that they have become that pioneered the business model in 2007 with “almost completely moribund,” and that they are a concept Forbes magazine says was driven by currently in the middle of a “real, genuine and “building a community of high value consumers irreversible crisis.” Glusker, however, disagrees. around limited-time, members-only ‘privates He believes there will always be a need for high sales’ for designer apparel at steeply discounted street stores and that his company can actually prices.” help rather than hinder their growth. It wasn’t long before the site opened up to the “They (high street shops) are not going to general public, and membership soared into the suddenly die out,” says Glusker. “If people really millions. There are now more than 100 flash sale need something like a suit, they are going to go sites, including Amazon’s new platform, MyHabit. to the shop and buy it. That isn’t going to change. While each has its own unique style, the basic What sites like ours offer is a marketing vehicle premise on each site is the same. for people to get excited about the brand so they
FEBRUARY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com
32 | WINTER TRAVEL | SAPPORO
The city-centre is just a short walk away, giving you a chance to enjoy the city’s nightlife without having to worry about getting a taxi or worry too much about the cold. If the weather is bad.
option while Serena, which doubles up as a cafe and restaurant, has a more European feel. For those wanting to relax after their food, the Sky resort Spa ‘Pulau Bulan’ (the island of the moon) is definitely worth visiting. Taking up the entire 22nd floor, here you can enjoy air bubble baths, saunas with aromatic scents and a natural hot spring with water that began flowing from an underground source below Sapporo station’s southern entrance when discovered as recently as 2000. There are a variety of therapeutic treatments available with prices starting at ¥5,500 for the 30 minute JR TOWER HOTEL Nikko Sapporo refreshment course. JR Tower Hotel Nikko Sapporo prides itself With its breathtaking views of one of Japan’s most exciting cities, on being a great place to stay, particularly for guests who like to relax when away from home. top-class restaurants and state-of-the-art spa facilities, JR Tower A dedicated Guest Relations Manager Hotel Nikko Sapporo is a resort which offers something a little is always on hand to advise you about local wintersports options and local events. On Feb special while being ideal for both business and leisure travellers. 14 the hotel hosts the City Jazz Cruize, featuring ‘Jaja’. If you’re in town for the Snow Festival, irectly connected to Sapporo Hokkaido’s seasonal produce to create dishes the hotel is directly connected to the park by station, inside Hokkaido’s tallest that have made this one of the most celebrated underground passageway. building, the hotel couldn’t be French restaurants in the city. more convenient. The city-centre Another recommendation is Sky J, a JR Tower Hotel, Nikko, Sapporo is just a short walk away, giving restaurant with a wide range of Western and Address: 5, Nishi 2, Kita 5, Chuo-ku, Sapporo youD a chance to enjoy the city’s nightlife without Asian dishes. From 8pm it becomes a cocktail 060-0005 (inside JR Tower) having to worry about getting a taxi or worry lounge with live music. For a quieter, more Web: www.jrhotels.co.jp/tower/english too much about the cold. If the weather is bad traditional Japanese style meal Tancho is a good Tel: 011-251-2510 – you might be glad of the snow if you’re hitting 1 2 the slopes but want to stay in the warm at night – you don’t even have to step outside as the Tower Building has a great selection of restaurants, cafes and places to shop, including the Daimaru department store and Bic Camera. Its guest rooms are situated from the 23rd to the 34th floors, approximately 100-140m above ground, and allow views towards famous spots such as the iconic Sapporo Tower. The style is 3 chic and simple and all rooms are comfortable and clean –with the added bonus of those spectacular views. The same can also be said of the restaurants on the 35th floor. There are many options including Japanese, French and classic Western 1 Beat the cold in a relaxing onsen 2 Spacious suite cuisine, with Mikuni Sapporo the pick of the with amazing views 3 Enjoy a traditional Japanese meal in the comfort of your room. bunch. Chef Kiyomi Mikuni makes the most of
FEBRUARY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com THE WEEKENDER GUIDE TO Skiing with the Kids
With spring just around the corner (so some of us hope, anyway!), there’s Hakuba not much time left to enjoy Japan’s ski slopes. Japan’s winter resorts are Also in Nagano, the six ski resorts in Hakuba Village all offer fantastic powder and beautiful famous for fabulous powder and après-ski hot springs and also offer a range views of the Japan Alps. Hakuba also offers of family-friendly options and services. Here we round up a few places that some of Japan’s best outdoor adventure options will allow you to hit the slopes with your little ones. for English speakers, thanks to the Evergreen Outdoor Center. Gunma: Katashina Kogen Gala Yuzawa also has a daycare room offering English-speaking staff at the center offer For young kids completely new to skiing, Katashina childcare for kids from two to six years for kids’ ski and snowboard lessons at the Happo Kogen in Gunma prefecture is a good option. This ¥1,200/hour. Advance reservations are required. One ski resort. They also offer daycare for kids skiers-only resort is close to Tokyo, cheap, and Gala Yuzawa is a three-hour drive from Tokyo from 18 months at their facility at the base of family-friendly. It even has a Miffy Bunny snow on the Kanetsu expressway, or a 90-minute ride on Happo One for ¥5,250 (half day) or ¥9,500 (full park. This may not the place for seasoned snow the Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo or Ueno to Gala day). If you want more snow adventure, they bunnies, but a great place for little beginners to get Yuzawa station. Japan Rail offers one-day bullet also offer back country guiding, snowshoe tours the hang of things. train and lift ticket packages for ¥13,000 (adults) and cultural excursions. Katashina Kogen offers ski lessons for kids and ¥6,850 (kids); book at any JR View Plaza travel Hakuba has a range of accommodation from age four to twelve who can speak basic agency. options, from small pensions to larger hotels and Japanese. Lessons cost from ¥3,000 to ¥5,500. You www.galaresort.jp/winter/english (English) Japanese inns. The village’s tourist information can also book a ‘Kids Snow Debut’ package, which office can help you book; call 0261-72-7100 or includes a 4-hour lesson and equipment and snow Shiga Kogen email through their website. wear rental, for ¥10,000 per person. Younger kids For a ski resort that’s not only kid-friendly but There are a few ways to get to Hakuba. You from ages two to four can frolic in the snow at the also offers some of the best snow in Japan, head can take the bullet train from Tokyo to Nagano resort’s ‘Snow Kindergarten’ (¥3,000/half-day and to Shiga Kogen in Nagano prefecture. (90 minutes), then by bus (another 70 minutes). ¥5,000/full day, including snacks). This network of 21 ski areas and 70 lifts Or, take a combination of express and local Katashina is a 2hr30min drive from Tokyo on offers daycare for kids from three months old, trains from Shinjuku to Hakuba, via Matsumoto the Kanetsu expressway. Orion Tours also offers children’s ski lessons and English-language (about 4.5 hours). Chuo Taxi, mentioned above, return bus and lift ticket packages for around support. Nearby Jigokudani hot springs offers also offers direct charter service from Tokyo to ¥6,300 per person (cheaper on weekdays). the chance to see Japanese macaques lounging Hakuba. www.katashinakogen.co.jp (Japanese) in outdoor baths. There are 18 ski schools and www.evergreen-hakuba.com www.orion-ski.jp (Japanese) about 100 hotels and Japanese inns in the area www.happo-one.jp/english and nearby Yudanaka/Shibu Onsen. vill.hakuba.nagano.jp/english Gala Yuzawa For details, check their English website or Gala Yuzawa in Niigata Prefecture is easily accessed contact the English-speaking staff in the Shiga Plus: by bullet train, has great snow and hot springs, Kogen Tourism Office at english@shigakogen. If you are already offers childcare and kids’ ski lessons, and has gr.jp or on 0269-34-2404. Access Shiga Kogen by on your way to English-speaking staff. taking the Nagano Shinkansen from Tokyo or Hokkaido, make The snow is usually great, and getting there by Ueno stations (90 minutes), then transferring sure you stop by train is hassle-free. The resort offers Sponge Bob to a direct bus at Nagano station (another 70 the Sapporo Snow Snow Camp ski or snowboard lessons for kids aged minutes). Festival, one of the four or older with basic Japanese skills. Lessons You can also charter a car with Chuo Taxi largest events of its cost between ¥4,500 to ¥9,800; call 090-2433-2302 to take you directly to the resort from Tokyo for kind in the world. It will this year take place (Japanese) to book. ¥12,400 per person. Contact them at otoiawase@ from February 5th – 11th. The festival has been Gala Yuzawa can also organize private lessons chuotaxi.co.jp or on 026-282-7777 running for 64 years now so if you miss out this in English, depending on instructor availability; www.shigakogen.gr.jp/english time you’re sure to get another chance in 2014. email: [email protected] or call 025-785-6442. www.chuotaxi.co.jp/ (English) Our advice? Book early! ince opening to the public in 1934 (after Prince Chichibu with a view, Garden Dining Waraku is a great option, providing a suggested a Western-style hotel in the area) it has sophisticated menu with authentic Japanese cuisine within sight of the provided a temporary home-away-from-home to guests stone garden just outside the windows, particularly popular in spring including the Emperor and visiting heads of state, earning when ducks raise their young in the pond. Kokaku, another great its reputation as the premier hotel in the prefecture. option, fuses a New York diner style atmosphere with Chinese cuisine. TheS smart and simple design combines classical traditions with a On top of all that, there are three bars, more than 20 banquet modern style and is ideal for both couples and families. For an even halls, wedding facilities, a conference room, and a concierge service more luxurious experience, it is highly recommended to book a in English, making Sapporo Grand Hotel one of the best venues for room on the Comfort Floor, where the beds are specially designed foreigners in the area. to help you sleep better or, for the discerning business traveller, the Located in the heart of the city, it is one of the most convenient executive floor. All rooms have recently been refurbished. places to stay in Sapporo with the JR and subway station just a For further relaxation it is worth taking a visit to Healing short walk away. Also nearby is Odori Park, a recreation spot that is Court Rennox, where you can enjoy a sauna, a stone bath and or known as the ‘Heart of Sapporo’ and is famed for its seasonal events, the training gym. Other facilities in the hotel include the Grand particularly the world famous Yuki Matsuri, (Snow Festival). The Arcade, with a variety of cosmetic, craft, jewellery and import shops, hotel and its Japanese garden can both be reached through one of Chapel Cana and the Memorial Library where you can take a look at Sapporo’s weatherproof underground passageways. photographs and mementos of VIP guests, such as a thank you letter from Margaret Thatcher and the lunch menu used by the New York Yankees in 1955. Nishi 4-chome 1-jo Kita Chuo-ku Sapporo, There are a number of dining options at the hotel offering a Hokkaido 060-0001 variety of Western, Japanese and Chinese food for breakfast, lunch and dinner. You can enjoy a wide selection of local delicacies at the Web: www.grand1934.com/english Node 43° and Hokkaido Dining restaurants. For those like to dine Tel: 011-261-3311
Weekender February.indd 34 28/01/2013 14:57 OPINION | EDUCATION | 35
GREAT EXPECTATions THE BATTLE HYMN oF THE TIGER MOTHER
By Brian Christian, Principle of the British Hymn of the Tiger Mother made fascinating they are capable of delivering. It’s not about top School in Tokyo reading. I was Principal of an academically grades or gold medals, but – as the Tiger Mother selective school in Singapore at the time of its herself explains – it is about believing in your child oes the name Sophie Chua- publication, one of just three schools licensed to more than anyone else. Rubenfield ring any bells? Her father educate both Singaporeans and international Sophie Chua-Rubenfield appears to be a is Robert R. Slaughter, Professor students; this afforded me a privileged vantage pretty good advertisement for her mother’s of Law at Yale and the best-selling point from which to observe the reactions of parenting approach. The fact that she made her Dauthor of two smash-hit mystery thrillers, but very different types of parent. Interestingly, it debut as a concert pianist in Carnegie Hall at the it is to her mother that Sophie owes any real tended to be the Asian mothers (and fathers) age of 14 and is now in her second year at Harvard claim to fame. Amy Chua is the eponymous who picked up on the very significant elements may have more to do with her genes than her Tiger Mother of the provocative Battle Hymn of self-parody in the book, while our western upbringing but, for such a prodigy, she seems essay (Why Chinese Mothers are Superior) that parents seemed to take it at face-value and to have grown up into a surprisingly grounded, caused such a stir a couple of years ago. Do you saw Ms Chua as some sort of “monster mom” normal young woman. Let me leave her with the remember it? This was its opening manifesto: practising child abuse of the cruellest kind. I final words: Here are some things my daughters, Sophie wondered how so many of them could fail to What does it mean to live life to the fullest? and Louisa, were never allowed to do: attend a see that the self-styled Tiger Mother was, at Maybe striving to win a Nobel Prize or going sleepover; have a playdate; be in a school play; least to some extent, poking fun at herself – skydiving are just two sides of the same coin. It’s complain about not being in a school play; watch even when she expressed disappointment at all about knowing that you’ve pushed yourself to TV or play computer games; choose their own the lack of ambition shown by the family dog the limits of your own potential. You feel it when extracurricular activities; get any grade less than or admitted defeat in her attempts to interest you’re sprinting, and when the piano piece you’ve an A; not be the No 1 student in every subject her daughters’ pet rabbits in a programme of been practising for hours finally comes to life ince opening to the public in 1934 (after Prince Chichibu with a view, Garden Dining Waraku is a great option, providing a except gym and drama; play any instrument self-improvement. beneath your fingertips. You suggested a Western-style hotel in the area) it has sophisticated menu with authentic Japanese cuisine within sight of the other than the piano or violin; not play the piano I suspect that it had something to do with feel it when you encounter provided a temporary home-away-from-home to guests stone garden just outside the windows, particularly popular in spring or violin. those two dark spectres familiar to any parent: a life-changing idea, including the Emperor and visiting heads of state, earning when ducks raise their young in the pond. Kokaku, another great The essay and subsequent book certainly guilt and self-doubt. Am I spending enough and when you do its reputation as the premier hotel in the prefecture. option, fuses a New York diner style atmosphere with Chinese cuisine. aroused some strong feelings. I remember there time with them? Am I doing the right thing? something on your TheS smart and simple design combines classical traditions with a On top of all that, there are three bars, more than 20 banquet modern style and is ideal for both couples and families. For an even halls, wedding facilities, a conference room, and a concierge service being particular outrage about an anecdote How come everyone else makes it look so easy? own that you more luxurious experience, it is highly recommended to book a in English, making Sapporo Grand Hotel one of the best venues for recalling her birthday when she threw her I suspect too that there was a sense that there never thought room on the Comfort Floor, where the beds are specially designed foreigners in the area. daughters’ hand-made cards back at them might just be a glimmer of truth in Amy Chua’s you could. If I to help you sleep better or, for the discerning business traveller, the Located in the heart of the city, it is one of the most convenient because they simply weren’t good enough. assertion that we can ask more of our children died tomorrow, executive floor. All rooms have recently been refurbished. places to stay in Sapporo with the JR and subway station just a Mothers of a more liberally-minded persuasion than we typically do and that true self-esteem I would die For further relaxation it is worth taking a visit to Healing short walk away. Also nearby is Odori Park, a recreation spot that is raised their hands in horror when they read has to be earned. knowing that Court Rennox, where you can enjoy a sauna, a stone bath and or known as the ‘Heart of Sapporo’ and is famed for its seasonal events, that she threatened to burn all of Sophie’s Today, as Principal of the British School I’ve lived my the training gym. Other facilities in the hotel include the Grand particularly the world famous Yuki Matsuri, (Snow Festival). The in Tokyo, working with children of almost 60 whole life at Arcade, with a variety of cosmetic, craft, jewellery and import shops, hotel and its Japanese garden can both be reached through one of stuffed animals after one less than perfect piano Chapel Cana and the Memorial Library where you can take a look at Sapporo’s weatherproof underground passageways. practice, but it was the “Little White Donkey” different nationalities, I believe that we should 110%. photographs and mementos of VIP guests, such as a thank you letter episode that drove many readers over the edge. assume strength rather than weakness in our from Margaret Thatcher and the lunch menu used by the New York That’s the name of the violin tune that Sophie’s children and that we are right to have high Yankees in 1955. 7-year-old sister Lulu was made to repeat for expectations of them. Young people never cease Nishi 4-chome 1-jo Kita Chuo-ku Sapporo, There are a number of dining options at the hotel offering a Hokkaido 060-0001 hours on end — right through dinner into the to amaze me with their capacity to respond to variety of Western, Japanese and Chinese food for breakfast, lunch night, with no breaks for water or even the a challenge, and I feel certain that the greatest and dinner. You can enjoy a wide selection of local delicacies at the Web: www.grand1934.com/english bathroom, until at last she mastered the piece. disservice we can do them is to expect less than Node 43° and Hokkaido Dining restaurants. For those like to dine Tel: 011-261-3311 For an educator of more than 30 years’ experience and the father of three fairly laid- back boys who, I have to admit, were brought up in a very different regime, The Battle
Weekender February.indd 34 28/01/2013 14:57 36 | EDUCATION | INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
move on to higher education in universities all over the world,” Christian tells me. “We Shaping the Leaders are currently the only school in Japan that offers this progression to A-levels and at the end of the last academic year we saw BST’s of Tomorrow first ever cohort of graduates settling into the universities of their choice, it was a rewarding Why do parents who are non-British choose to give their children a British feeling! This year we are delighted that we will be sending our first student to Cambridge.” education, and why choose the British School in Tokyo? There are now 720 “My ambition is to see real development students attending BST and more on the waiting list in some year groups. and growth in the secondary school and Of these, about 50% are non-British. I was curious to find out why. to spread the word about the high regard universities worldwide have for the A-level course. Later this year we will launch an 1 3 exciting one-year foundation course, F1. This is aimed at bright young 15 and 16 year-olds with real leadership potential who wish to transfer from other educational systems onto the A-level programme.” “Of course,” Christian continues, “education is not just about academic achievement. Exam results mean a great deal but they’re not the be-all and end-all. Character development is at the heart of all that we do here, and I believe that this is 2 now more important than ever. We have a responsibility to help our young people to grow up into caring, considerate global THE ROBOTS citizens, and I am keen to push this more and more. I am determined that 2013 will be a year in which BST will make a significant difference to the lives of those who cannot enjoy many of the things that we are able to take for granted. January’s Ichi-en koka appeal will be 1 GCSE and A level students having fun in an art class 2 Students enjoy a science lesson 3 Principal, Brian just the first in a series of monthly initiatives Christian outside the school in Shibuya. and projects. Also, 2014 will see BST’s 25th anniversary so there’s a lot on the horizon. Let’s just say that whatever we come up with, By Mary Rudow It seems having the right elements not only it’ll be different and it’ll be exciting!” produces contented children but good academic rian Christian, Principal of The British results as well. Last year, the collective year- Brian Christian is an avid writer and keeps School in Tokyo, holds a master’s in end test results of all grades (primary and an extremely interesting and informative English Literature from Cambridge secondary) at BST far surpassed those of their blog on the BST website: www.bst.ac.jp/ University and has had more than counterparts at the independent and grammar principalsblog threeB decades of experience teaching in and schools in the UK. In the report of a recent running schools and colleges; 28 of those years inspection conducted by the Independent were in his home country – the UK. Schools Inspectorate, the school was described “I think many parents feel that their children as ‘Excellent’ – the highest grading need the structure and the sense of discipline that possible – in all eight standards. exists in most British schools – certainly in the Inspectors described BST private sector,” he tells me. “When expectations as a “dynamic, creative, are high and everyone knows where the educational community which boundaries are, things tend to run more smoothly; is successful in meeting its everyone ends up learning more and enjoying aims in delivering a world- that learning. This sense of connection and class, British education in mutual respect (between students and teachers) Tokyo to international leads to an encouraging, easy atmosphere in students from over 50 which real learning can take place, and where countries.” there is always room for creativity. Good schools “An A-level are built around good people; our teachers are programme [the dedicated and the children really enjoy being standard in the UK] around them. This doesn’t happen by accident – I was introduced just don’t think I‘ve ever been in a school where more over two years ago for care is put into the recruitment of capable and students in years 12 and qualified educators.” 13 who are preparing to
FEBRUARY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS | EDUCATION | 37
1 3 spotting what students are interested in, and what they have the ability and desire to pursue, and working out how to “facilitate that and serve it through what we offer,” says Eugene Witt, Director of Information Technology. When we meet Kevin Randall and the half of his High School robotics class who had stayed behind during recess to hone their more complex VEX robots, he told us that the problem solving process that happens when building and programming means learning happens “in context”. It’s not the case that they sit and learn 2 some formula and then go and enter it. They each have specific goals and will need different skills and levels of analytical and logical thinking to achieve them. And what could be more motivating than February’s VEX Robotics Competition? Walking out of the school we saw, amongst evidence of yearly Broadway musical 1 Middle school students working together on a spectaculars, the trophies and spoils of debate MacBook Pro 2 Kevin Randall with his High School championships and winning student journalism, robotics class 3 iPads are widely used throughout the the awards students won in previous Robotics elementary school. Competitions. Now that’s exciting.
RISE OF The Global Online Academy Ed Ladd, ASIJ’s Head of School, calls the school’s membership in the Global Online Academy, which means students can take online courses from a number of prestigious partner schools THE ROBOTS in both the US and other countries, “the A Glimpse Into the Future at The American School in Japan opportunity to further explore their passions and engage with their peers in other schools.” With a diverse range of courses – from ou don’t have to go much further than sits – literally – on command and a half built medical problem solving to Arabic (useful if the lobby at The American School in dumper truck awaits a new load of instructions. you’ve just moved to Japan from the Middle Japan to see its High School students This is a classroom where people want to be, East) – take-up in the program has been growing learning, though they aren’t in the a fact illustrated not only by the success and and there are high hopes. The idea plays into classrooms.Y And there don’t seem to be any books engagement of the students, but also by their the US college model (around 6 million students or teachers helping them. teacher’s clear pride and belief in the children in the US are taking e-learning courses) and They are perched on the edges of desks, in and their ability to be ready for a world in which reflects the world the students will grow into. the doorway of a classroom and even at the foot “the jobs they will do don’t exist yet.” When we look at what’s going on and of a stairwell and they are in deep concentration The approach to computers and technology trends in the world, and we see the positive and conversation about whatever it is on their in the classrooms at ASIJ marks a shift towards a reactions to how we are getting students to screens. What are they doing? Maybe they are focus on IT as not simply a set of skills for a job. think, says Eugene Witt, Director of Information working on a video for their latest Physics project, Many will remember IT classes being focused Technology, “I ask myself, why wouldn’t we do working together on potential plans for the VEX on office applications and word processing something like this?” Robotics Tournament or perhaps Skyping with aptitude; not so now. Students think nothing of students in another Global Online Academy their Mac being as important as a pencil case To find out more about the robotics courses school about their latest project? and gym kit to their school day, but what does and competitions and other goings on at The This may be one of the oldest international that mean for education? American School in Japan, see www.asij.ac.jp schools in Tokyo, but it certainly seems to be The idea to move towards an integrated looking forward with as much relish as it is approach to using hardware and software that celebrating the past. We took a walk through not only aids teachers and gets tasks done. some of the classrooms and met some of the It’s not just practical applications of new faculty members at ASIJ to find out more. technology. In part, using computers “It’s about giving the students the tools and iPads and talking about to become the next generation,” says Mike apps and videos as Moody, the elementary school’s instruction well as pencils and technology coach of his robotics club. “They books is about can create and think and design and be in control – they aren’t just answering questions but are responding to challenges and, really, the class is directed by them.” There’s a 3D printer in the corner of his room overlooking the elementary school playground and electronic cutting tools with a potential for detail that until recently was unimaginable on a table near the door. We listen to stories of fourth- and fifth-graders programming robots they have built with Lego to carry out ‘simple’ tasks; a ‘dog’ 38 | EDUCATION | INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
reverences the spiritual riches of all SEISEN CELEBRATES 50 Years of faith traditions. We have both a large preschool-kindergarten for little boys and girls and an Elementary, Middle and EDUCATIONAL EXCELLENCE High school for girls that offers a really special environment in which to become Seisen International School is Celebrating it’s 50th Anniversary – leaders of the future. Seisen is also part of a huge global network of schools run by We speak with Sister Margaret, Head of the School, to find out more the Handmaids of the Sacred Heart with a wealth of possibilities for networking. When did you come to Japan and what Seisen is celebrating its 50th anniversary brought you here? (2012-2013), what do you think What is your vision for Seisen? I was invited to join Seisen International contributes to its half century My vision for the future of School by the CEO at our headquarters in of success? How will you Seisen is: renew, enrich, Rome. I arrived in Tokyo on August 11th, celebrate? energize. We plan to 2012 from Pennsylvania, USA, where I was Our theme for this year – 50 expand our facilities with teaching theology in St Joseph’s University, years of love in action – sums the land we have acquired Philadelphia and running a Catholic up what we have been trying while at the same time Spirituality Center in Haverford, PA. to do for the past half century, offer a wider range of for example our commitment languages and sports for Tell us a bit about your background and to Habitat for Humanity. We our students. religious convictions. plan to spread out our celebrations, I was born in England and have worked in beginning with a Mass and reception in What do you do to unwind? many countries. I am a nun, or a Sister, who October, followed by a fun packed picnic for I watch sports – be it Seisen teams belongs to a Catholic religious family called all the students, their families and friends or English soccer or USA baseball. I the Handmaids of the Sacred Heart of and much more. love reading, especially international Jesus. Our group is dedicated to education espionage books – my favorite author is in 27 countries, particularly for girls and What sets Seisen apart from other David Baldacci. I also enjoy hanging out poor children. My firm belief is that God international schools in these parts? with friends. cares passionately for every person and Seisen is unique in that we are a Catholic wants us to do the same. International school which celebrates and Interview by Mary Rudow
OHANA NEW WORLD InTERNATIONAL InTERNATIONAL PRESCHOOL SCHOOL
he name Ohana, ew World which means ‘family International and friendship’ in School is a Hawaiian, reflects preschool/ Tthe community oriented Nkindergarten with a philosophy of this unique strong focus on play, international school located crafts and English in the heart of Azabu-Juban. communication. With Run by passionate founders Darren Winney and Shelley Sacks, a safe, fun environment treating children as individuals with who, with more than 40 years of experience in early childhood their own personality and development style, NWIS is a second education, believe in building the character of the students through home to its students and parents, offering many family events academic and life skills; this inclusive Tokyo preschool caters to including a Christmas Pageant, Sports Day, Family Day and children between the ages of 18 months and 5 years and is one of the more. only preschools in Tokyo where the owners are the teachers. A day at NWIS is filled with music, chants, gestures and Ohana’s learning program is designed to build on the strengths crafts allowing children to improve both motor skills and of each child. They aim to develop a “love of learning” in each child; linguistic abilities. With NWIS’ effective language curriculum, promoting his/her development in the areas of fine and gross motor NWIS students have an English ability equal to other native skills, speech and language skills, sensory skills, social and emotional English speakers living in Japan, read above their grade level abilities, and cognitive and academic abilities as well as learning and succeed in international elementary schools in Japan and/ about Japan and its culture. or overseas. Ohana offers a wide range of programs, both full and half-day. As a school devoted to your child’s physical, educational Before and after school care is also available. After school classes and emotional growth, New World International invites you to include: private tutoring; phonics; literacy, art, design and come and meet its teachers and students and imagine your own technology; Chinese; dance fusion and Japanese through songs. child learning and speaking English alongside them.
Address: 2/3F, Park I, 2-17-8 Azabu-juban, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0045 Address: 182 - 0002, Annex 2 - 101, Sengawa Avenue, 1 - 24 - 38 Tel: 03-3451-0087 | Fax: 03-3451-0087 Sengawa - Cho, Chofu-shi , Tokyo Web: www.school-in-tokyo.com Tel: 03 - 3305 - 0573 | Web: www.newworldinternationalschool.com
FEBRUARY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS | EDUCATION | 39
www.tokyoweekender.com FEBRUARY 2013 40 | FACES & PLACES | PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES
Paramount Japan president Ichiro Okazaki, Mitsuhiko Okura, chairman of Japan Exhibition Association, Tom Cruise and Fuji TV personality Shinichi Karube at Paramount’s Jack Reacher press conference in Tokyo PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES Tokyo’s Longest Running Society Page, with Bill Hersey
ooking back, I was a bit concerned when I thought about Maria Teresa Lopez at the tastefully decorated embassy residence. I my decision to spend the Christmas and New Year holidays also saw a dynamic exhibition of photos taken by Japanese who had here in Japan this year. The holiday season, as you know, visited Oman at the Oman Embassy in Hiroo, an exciting program of was extra long for a lot of us and for some strange reason I traditional Indian dance sponsored by Min-on Concert Association thoughtL I would probably end up getting bored. I’m happy to say that at Nakano Sun Plaza and several intimate get-togethers hosted by never happened. diplomat friends who, like me, were in Japan for the holidays. With all the seasonal parties, marvelous cultural events, visits As always at this time of the year there were a lot for special TV to orphans’ homes, coffees with friends, lots of interesting people shows. Our British friends continue to do some amazing things and partying at the New Lex where you can often find me, a super the London production of Andrew Lloyd Webber’s The Phantom of schedule of TV shows and a little time to just lay back and think the Opera, which was filmed at the Royal Albert Hall in London, was how lucky I’ve been in the last year, I was sure kept busy. All that, musical entertainment at its best. A special finale bonus featured my plus a feeble attempt to get my apartment more organized; it’s like a favorite singer, Sarah Brightman, singing the show’s theme song. In museum, with evidence of my 50-years of shopping for interesting, his intro of her, Webber called her “The lady who makes music from funky things from all over the world and over 40-years worth of heaven”. Pick up one of her several dozen CDs on the renovated 7th photos and tear sheets from the many publications I’ve written for. I floor of Tower Records in Shibuya and I’m sure you’ll hear why he didn’t really get into that as much as I hoped I would and really have feels this way. I might add Sarah is not only a top talent, she’s a very to seriously start on that soon. Don’t many of us always think that nice lady (I met and had a party for her at the New Lex few years sort of thing this time of year? ago). For your info Tower has reopened its well stocked magazine Highlights of the busy two weeks included planning and helping and book shop which was on the 7th floor: it’s now on the 3rd, right set up my, the Weekender and Hilton Tokyo’s 15th annual holiday beside a nice looking café. party for Japanese orphans; packing and sending a half a dozen big Thanks to friends in show promotions also got to see local boxes of clothes and toys friends had donated for needy families in productions of both Cats and The Lio King. I had seen both of these the Philippines; and catching many of the special holiday cultural on Broadway and in London and really enjoyed the beautifully staged events at temples, shrines, parks, shopping malls and concert venues. shows here. Language aside, if you know the music you’ll enjoy them as Embassy events included a concert with Croatian pianist, Goran well. Tickets start at about 4,000 yen – a real bargain, I think, especially Filipe, hosted by his country’s ambassador to Japan, Mrs. Mira after talking to a friend in NYC who paid $300 to see the hit musical, The Martines and a colourful, traditional Christmas party hosted by Book of Mormon. He said tickets are really hard to come by over there.
FEBRUARY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 41
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Christmas party for orphaned children at the Hilton, Tokyo
1. Maali Siam from Palestine 2. Monia Kasri, Tuniusia 3. Abeer Ayche, Kitty – with Dewi Sukarno 12. Mika Nigitsch 13. George Inaki of American Oman 4. Amal Ketrandji, Algeria 5. Cecelia Risolo, Argentina 6. Kyoko Apparel 14. Matthew Ireton 15. Maria Teresa Lopez of the Philippines 16. Fujisawa of Yodobashi Camera 7. Shifa Haddad of Jordan and Jamiklah Singer, Moona 17. Yasmine Tsamados, from Lebanon, who is married to the al Otaibi from Kuwait 8. Lynn Lai and Itsumi Sano 9. Miyuki Shida and Greek ambassador 18. Lena Chikada 19. Mary Katayama of Aston Martiin her daughter Alisa of Shidax Karaoke 10. Ahmed and Shaima al Teraisi, 20. Dickie Comberbach of Zimbabwe. Bahrain 11. Tsuji, grandson of the owner of Sanrio – famous for Hello
www.tokyoweekender.com FEBRUARY 2013 42 | SOCIETY | PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES
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Christmas party for orphaned children at the Hilton, Tokyo (cont.) Samira Ali Abdelaziz (Sudan) and Shifa Haddad 14. Zimbabwe amb. Stuart Harold 1. Grace Saito 2. Lilo Maruyama 3. Hiroko Inayama 4. Kyoko Spector 5. Rosa Cardenas, Comberbach, his wife Dickie and archbishop Joseph Chennoth (Holy See) 15. The host, Colombia 6. Zahra al Nowais, UAE 7. Takako Bosman 8. Alix Guillot and Pia von Algerian amb. Sid Ali Ketrandji and French amb. Christian Massett. Waldau 9. Kim Soper of Hilon hotels and resorts Misc hilton kids party 10. Bill and Lilo take a break 11. Rene Thomasberger and Kiyohito Shinoyama from sponsors Escala’s Peruvian gastronomic festival at the Hilton Mercedes Benz. 16. Peruvian amb. Elartd Escala, his wife Cristina, Jamaican amb. Claudia Barnes, Mexican amb. Claude Hdeller and his wife Adela 17. Visiting chefs from Peru, Javier Algeria’s National Day Celebration Amparo, Cristian Mottee, Jose de Castillo and Fransua Robles 18. Michelle Nishiyama, 12. Tunisian amb. Elysee Kasri, Libyan Charge d’Affaires Ahmed A.S. Own and Qatari Susan Cardenas and Camila Gracia. amb. Yousef Mohamed Bilal 13. The hostess, Amal Ketrandji, Jamila Bilal (Qatar)
FEBRUARY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 43
On the lighter side, I really enjoyed partying with a group of The Hilton’s Marble Lounge had been transformed into a magical snowboarders from New Zealand in Roppongi. Our Kiwi friends do kingdom with a huge Christmas tree, balloons, decorations and a know how to have a good time: I really hope to get to their beautiful lavish buffet of all the kids’ favorite foods. It was a day of seasonal country some time this year. music (Matthew Ireton and Moona led the kids in song), great food, After New Year’s, I got together with a long-time friend, world making new friends, everyone enjoying themselves and the true spirit renowned art dealer Norman Tolman, for breakfast at the completely of the holidays. It pretty much ended with the kids and their partners renovated Palace Hotel. I had no time to check it all out but the light for the day dancing to the music of The Village People’s YMCA, but bright and big dining areas in the lobby area look fantastic. The many of the sponsors and children stayed on well past closing time. high ceilings are impressive, as are the fireplaces and the outdoor All the kids left with big bags of the kind of stuff kids love and bags dining area has heaters; it’s a great spot to watch the swans swim and boxes for their schoolmates who couldn’t be there that day, as in the Imperial Palace moat. I was out of Tokyo for the re-opening I said. The kids were really special and many of their partners said party but I will check it all out in the near future. Norman’s always they really wished they could take them home. In closing, I’d like to fun and he’s always busy, his big – and I do mean big – project now extend sincerest thanks to a few other friends who helped make it all is planning a series of events pretty much all over the world to the big success it was. Firstly, the members of the Guardian Angels, help the grand lady, super artist Toko Shinoda, celebrate her 100th who acted as interpreters and helped in so many ways. The same goes birthday (she’s still painting!) on March 28th. More, much more, on for National Azabu Supermarket’s GM, Dale Toriumi, Alef Saraie and, that later. of course, Hilton Tokyo’s super and always helpful staff. Many friends I’ve talked to the last month or so seem to feel that 2013 will be a year of change. Looking back on 2012, with Algeria’s glittering exotic national day reception natural disasters, the war in Syria, unemployment, many economic The beautiful Minami Azabu residence of Algerian ambassador, Sid Ali problems and mass murders let’s hope things do, for everyone, Ketrandji and his wife Amal, with its marble floors, arched doorways, change for the better. From the looks of things there’ll be a lot of stained glass windows, fountains and garden is a majestic venue for changes that are not so big but that will be important for many living any event. It was, as you can imagine, perfect for the celebration of here. It’s hard to believe but Roppongi Hills will celebrate its 10th Algeria’s 58th National Day, a special and truly memorable evening anniversary in a few months; an executive for the big complex told in every way. Amal wore a fantastic, custom-made Algerian dress for me there’s going to be a lot of renovation and some major changes. the occasion and looked like she had just stepped out of an imaginary Fans of Illy’s coffee shop there are not so happy, as the popular copy of “Arabic Vogue”. Long buffet tables had been set up in several hangout for foreigners did not renew its four-year contract and it’s of the residence’s many rooms and the food offered included many already closed. Muji’s light, bright and spacious shop in Midtown is delicious Arabic dishes I hadn’t seen before, as well as Japanese, also closed now but from what I hear they will be relocating and I’ll Chinese and Western favorites. The laid-back atmosphere gave the let you know exactly where as well as some other changes around many guests the opportunity to enjoy legendary Arab hospitality at our busy city as they happen. its best and was perfect for the occasion.
Bill Hersey, the Weekender and Hilton Tokyo’s 15th annual Peruvian Gastronomic Festival at the Hilton Tokyo holiday orphans party Our Sincerest congratulations to Peruvian ambassador, Elard Escala My sincerest thanks go to the many caring giving people who helped and his wife on the many special events the couple hosted as part at our 15th charity party at the Hilton. These included many of the of the celebration of their country’s 191st Independence Day. These spouses of diplomats and business leaders as well as several others included a very successful and enjoyable Peruvian gastronomical food who all took time out of their busy schedules to make it a very special festival at the Hilton Tokyo. They flew four of Peru’s top chefs in, and day for the children (what beautiful kids they were) they each believe me all four really knew their business. Peru has always been paired up with for the party. Our long-time collaborators include famous for its tourist destinations, its scenery, music and handicrafts. Coca Cola, Walt Disney Pictures, Warner Brothers Entertainment, In the past few years, it’s also been recognized for the quality, variety Sony Pictures, Toho Towa, Paramount Pictures, Lufthansa Airlines, and excellence of its cuisine. In addition to enjoying the amazing United Airlines, Mercedes Benz, Tsukasa Shiga and Sanrio’s variety of food at the opening party I also had the chance to meet Hello Kitty not only sent gifts for each of the kids at the many of the Latin ambassadors and their wives for the first party, they sent enough to give to all the children at the time. There were so many changes in diplomatic corps in six participating schools so that students who couldn’t 2012. Muchas gracias Elard and Cristina, you’re doing a be there that day didn’t miss out. commendable job of promoting your country.
There were so many happy faces on the kids Rene Bosman plays Santa Clause at the kids Drama student, Keita Nishi, was a big help on and helpers at the Christmas party Christmas party the night of the party
www.tokyoweekender.com FEBRUARY 2013 44 | WEEKENDER | EXPAT LIFE
FEBRUARY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com EXPAT LIFE | WEEKENDER | 45
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www.tokyoweekender.com FEBRUARY 2013 MOVIES Coming to a cinema near you in FEBRUARY
FEB 1 Jack Reacher om Cruise’s latest, Jack Reacher, is based on the character from Ta popular series of books by the author Lee Child, the first of which appeared in 1997. When Cruise was announced as the title character there was criticism from fans of the novels who felt that didn’t have the height and physical presence to play the statuesque Reacher. The author brushed aside concerns, believing him to have the acting chops to make up for what he lacks in height, and Cruise certainly has the experience for this action/thriller role. Based on the ninth novel in the series, ‘One Shot’, the action revolves around the case of a trained military sniper who is arrested for the murder of five people. The accused man claims his innocence and ex-military investigator Jack Reacher gets involved when he senses something isn’t right. The film is fairly formulaic and isn’t going to offer many surprises but fans of Cruise and his work on Mission: Impossible will get a kick out of its polished action.
FEB 1 Silver Linings Playbook FEB 14 he star of the show here is Jennifer Lawrence, who hit the big time with Tlast years box-office smash The Hunger Games after building momentum since impressing in her break out role, 2010’s Winter’s Bone. The film – nominated for Best Picture at the Academy Awards – follows Pat Soltano, played by Bradley Cooper, a troubled man who returns from The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel a mental health facility with the intention A Good Day to Die Hard of getting his life together and reconciling ritish comedy-drama The Best f you need a break from all that worthy with his wife. Upon moving in to his family Exotic Marigold Hotel opened to Oscars-fare, also out this month is the home with his father (Robert De Niro), Pat excellent critical acclaim and box fifth instalment of the Die-Hard franchise. B meets Lawrence’s Tiffany, a mysterious girl I office takings last year in its native country Bruce Willis’ second appearance this month with problems of her own. Pat and Tiffany and went on to prove a big success upon sees him return to his best known character, intend to help each other achieve their its international release. The film features John McClane, travelling to Russia to help out respective goals, but those begin to change a fine ensemble cast of older British talent his estranged son, Jack. Jack has wound up as a connection forms between them. including Judi Dench, Bill Nighy, Maggie in prison and when John turns up to help he Smith and John Wilkinson with support FEB 22 discovers his son is a CIA operative and the from young Slumdog Millionaire star, Dev pair get caught up fighting bad guys involved Patel. The older cast members star as a in a nuclear weapons heist. Jai Courtney, who group of retirees who move to a retirement came to fame through US television series hotel in India for a taste of the exotic and a Spartacus: Blood and Sand, and will also life of leisure. Upon arrival their plans are appear this month in Jack Reacher, plays Jack. shattered by the less than perfect state of The last instalment in this franchise was 2007’s hotel, however the new environment and Live Free or Die Hard and latest director John lifestyle soon open up the group to new Moore will be hoping for another hit addition experiences and ways of living. to the series.
FEBRUARY 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com SHOWING THIS MONTH | SCREEN | 47 FEB 8
> SCREENINGS Selected Cinemas
Jack Reacher: TOHO Cinemas (Roppongi, Odaiba) Moonrise Kingdom: Human Trust Cinema, Shibuya Zero Dark Thirty: TOHO Cinemas (Roppongi, Yurakucho/Hibiya, Shibuya) The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel 2: Human Trust Cinema, Shibuya Moonrise Kingdom A Good Day to Die Hard: TOHO Cinemas (Roppongi, Odaiba) Silver Linings Playbook: Human Trust Cinema, Shibuya he latest work from idiosyncratic auteur Wes Anderson is finally released here in Japan after receiving widespread critical acclaim, Tmany citing it as the director’s best, since it premiered at last year’s Cannes film festival. As usual, there is an eclectic cast, including Anderson regulars Jason Schwartzman and Bill Murray, along with Bruce > DVD/BLU-RAY This Month’s Releases Willis, Edward Norton, Frances McDormand and Tilda Swinton amongst others. Set in picturesque Rhode Island, 12-year-old Sam Shakusky, played FEB 6 Get the Gringo newcomer Jared Gillman, escapes from his scout summer camp to meet Mel Gibson is career-criminal Mexican authorities up and run away with Suzy Bishop (fellow-newcomer Kara Hayward). arrest and send to a tough prison for some tough When Suzy’s parents discover the girl’s absence, the events cause chaos on time – but for the help of a young kid (Kevin Hernandez) he might not be able to survive. the island as the parents, scout troop and local police try to track down the pair and put an end to their budding romance. If you’ve seen Anderson’s FEB 6 The Grey work before you’ll know what to expect but the child protagonists give Oil workers become stranded after a surviving the film a different slant and the sweet romance, wonderful characters, a plane crash in Alaska - but will Liam Neeson’s humour and warmth of the movie really make this one to watch. survival skills stretch to protecting the group from the packs of wolves that hunt them?
FEB 6 Rock of Ages Tom Cruise will be familiar to many readers of this FEB 15 particular issue – this film might not. It wasn’t the mega hit hoped for but perhaps still worth checking out if you are a Hollywood dreamer.
FEB 8 Iron Sky We can’t wait to see whether in 2018 Nazis really do return from their hidden base on the dark side of the moon and try once more to terrorize the world in pursuit of power.
FEB 8 World’s Greatest Dad Robin Williams attempts to cover up for a humiliating accident that has befallen his son with a phony suicide note, inadvertently attracting an overwhelming amount of media and community attention.
FEB 8 The Lady Zero Dark Thirty This film tells the story of Aung San Suu Kyi irector Kathryn Bigelow made history at the 2009 Academy and her relationship with her husband, British Awards by becoming the first woman to take away the Best writer Michael Aris, as she becomes the core of DPicture statuette for her film The Hurt Locker. She’s back again Myanmar’s democracy movement. with another Oscar nod and in familiar territory working with writer- FEB 20 Hick producer Mark Boal on Zero Dark Thirty. Bigelow’s previous effort took From Nebraska to Las Vegas was the dream for a place during the Iraq war and this new film concerns the hunt for the young teen (played by Chloë Grace Moretz) who, man many see as its catalyst, Osama Bin Laden. The film stars Jessica along the way, gets a whole lot more than she Chastain, herself no stranger to the Oscars – she was nominated in the bargained for. supporting actress category for her role in last year’s The Help and is up FEB 22 The Dictator for Best Actress this time around. Chastain plays Maya, a CIA operative Sacha Baron Cohen risks everything to ensure working as part of a team that has spent the last decade secretly working democracy can never set foot inside the nation he towards a single goal, finding and eliminating Bin Laden. The film has has oppressed with such care over the course of attracted controversy from some quarters for its alleged pro-torture his maniacal life. stance, it has been boycotted by actor Martin Sheen, amongst others, and been criticised by an ex-CIA agent for the revealing information it contains. What ever you decide about its morals it’s sure to be an This month’s movie previews were written by interesting, thought-provoking watch worth checking out for yourself. Christopher O’Keeffe. For more movie news and reviews visit www.tokyoweekender.com
www.tokyoweekender.com FEBRUARY 2013 AGENDA FEBRUARY 1
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1 FEB 12 2 FEB 15 3 FEB 1 - 28 4 MAR 5 Yeasayer Madlib Medicine Show Tokyo Fan Week Grizzly Bear Pshych-popsters from Otis Jackson Jr. is a hip- As if we need more If folky rock from New Brooklyn are in town on hop/jazz/disco producer, encouragement, this York is your thing, their way back from a series of sell DJ and multi-instrumentalist who is campaign aims to get us foreigners you won’t go wrong at this gig, out shows down in Australia. Will making a rare trip to Tokyo; surely nearer the heart of Harajuku and the band’s first in Japan since the they find the same in Japan? one not to miss. Omotesando with many events. beginning of 2009. Time: 18:00 (doors) | Tickets: ¥4,500 Time: 22:30 - late | Tickets: ¥3,500 Time: Various | Tickets: Mostly free Time: 18:00 (doors) | Tickets: ¥4,500 Venue: Unit, Daikanyama Venue: Sound Museum Vision More: Venue: Various Venue: Liquidroom, Ebisu More info: www.unit-tokyo.com www.vision-tokyo.com More info: www.tokyoweekender.com More: www.liquidroom.net
5 FEB 14 6 FEB 24 7 FEB 24 8 JAN 27 - MAR 3 Kitsune Club Night Tokyo Marathon Fun. Alan Johnston Celebrating the opening of Get up early on a Several Grammy A solo exhibition its new boutique in Tokyo Sunday morning to see nominations might of sketches, drawings, is French music/fashion label known the streets come alive with runners. have had something to do with watercolours and “Sumi “ shadow for top parties – free before midnight. Are you running? Good luck if so! these boys selling out the show paintings made during the artist’s Beatcue headline. Venue: Starting from outside the Tokyo and the venue upgrading them to a residency in Nagano prefecture in Time: 22:30 | Tickets: ¥2,000 Metropolitan Government Buildings, bigger hall. October 2012. Venue: Sound Museum Vision Shinjuku and ending at Tokyo Big Sight, Time: 17:00 (doors) | Tickets: ¥5,500 Time: 10:00 - 18:00 | Tickets: Free! More: www.vision-tokyo.com Odaiba. More: www.tokyo42195.org Venue: Studio Coast Venue: The Embassy of Luxembourg More: www.smash-jpn.com More info: www.tokyoweekender.com
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9 FEB 16 + 18 10 MAR 1-3 Ben Folds Five Tokyo International Reformed and back in Literary Festival Tokyo for a couple of Bookish readers may shows that simply have to be in the already have spotted this weekend, diary for many of a certain age. which brings JM Coetzee and other Pricey but worth every yen. prize winners to town. Time: Feb 16: 16:30; 18th: 18:30 Tickets: Time: Various More info: http:// ¥8,500 More info: www.udo.jp/Artists/ tokyolitfest.com/ (Also has English BenFoldsFive Venue: Showa Women’s Facebook page) Venue: Various University
11 FEB 7 - MAR 7 12 FEB 18 Plum Blossom Fest Japandroids A precursor to the big Brian King and David hanami events later Prowse are actually from in spring or a unique celebration Canada, but their brand of indie in itself? You decide. Dates are rock – and the name – will go down weather permitting. well in Tokyo. Venue: Yushima Tenjin Shrine, Bunkyo-ku Time: 18:30 (doors) Tickets: ¥5,250 Info: www.tokyoweekender.com More: www.smash-jpn.com Tickets: Free! Venue: Shibuya WWW
www.tokyoweekender.com FEBRUARY 2013 BACK IN THE DAY: FEBRUARY 1988 Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1988! You can read the rest of the article (issue 6, 1988) and view Weekender’s 42 year archive online. www.tokyoweekender.com/weekender-archives/