Where to live VISIT THE French MARKET at

  A taste Entrée Burgundy-Franche-Comté

e begin our meal it consists of poached of home in Burgundy- eggs served with a Franche-Comté, sublimely aromatic red If the way to the heart is through the a paradise not wine sauce, lardons stomach, why not apply the same only for adventure and garlicky croutons. seekersW who go there to hike, cycle, Together with coq au vin and boeuf approach to finding your perfect location horseback ride or cross-country ski in bourguignon, it is one of three traditional in France? Paola Westbeek serves up a the Vosges massif to the north-east and Burgundy dishes infused with the regional the Jura mountains to the south-east, pinot noir. Two other great choices to generous helping of food for thought but also for gourmets and wine lovers start your meal would be a slice of chunky who delight in the region’s abundant jambon persillé (a parsleyed ham terrine pleasures of the table. made with aligoté and sometimes served One of the best ways to start a meal with Dijon mustard and tiny cornichons)  in France – and especially in Burgundy or escargots à la bourguignonne (snails rance’s culinary landscape is Because food is such an integral part of – is with a kir, the second most popular smothered in sizzling butter, parsley and extraordinarily diverse. Each French culture, getting to know France means apéritif in the country after pastis. generous amounts of garlic). For the latter, corner of the country boasts discovering its varied cuisine. Let’s take a It is traditionally made with one-third you can thank Antonin Carème, the grand delectable products and traditional culinary tour of four French regions and see blackcurrant liqueur (crème de cassis) and cuisinier who created the dish for a dinner dishes that reflect its terroir and what they have to offer. Our menu begins with two-thirds of the somewhat acidic aligoté hosted by Talleyrand in 1814 in honour of Fare part of its identity. Just think of a hearty wine-infused starters in Burgundy-Franche- wine produced in the village of Bouzeron Alexander I of Russia. choucroute garnie from Alsace, a fragrant coq Comté, continues with robust meat dishes in in the Côte Chalonnaise. Before leaving Burgundy’s bountiful au vin from Burgundy, a sunny ratatouille Nouvelle-Aquitaine, is followed by the bold While sipping a kir and perusing the table, make sure to stop at L’Hôtel-Dieu from Nice or a richly filled cassoulet from cheeses of Hauts-de-France and ends with restaurant menu in one of the many in Beaune. The former almshouse is Languedoc. All of these dishes are part of fresh and delicate desserts in Provence-Alpes- attractive cities such now a museum housed in an impressive France’s immense gourmet repertoire. Côte d’Azur. Allez-y et bon appétit! as Beaune, Autun or Gothic building with roofs boasting glazed Chalon-sur-Saône, you multicoloured tiles in extraordinary might be tempted to geometric patterns. Also noteworthy is order oeufs en meurette Autun’s Cathédrale St-Lazare. Dating to as a starter (see above the mid-12th century and famous for its

right). A classic in this magnificent sculptures and tympanum, it

part of the country, is one of the city’s most stunning icons. lain Doire/Bourgogne-franche-comté  A M a onnie C The kir was named after the mayor of Dijon, Félix Kir who, during his time in office, often welcomed visitors to the mairie with the fruity drink. ourisme; T © © illionaire/thinkstock;

40 Living France January 2018 completefrance.com completefrance.com January 2018 Living France 41 Where to live

   Plat  Dessert Nouvelle-Aquitaine Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur

o the west, our main dish et-Garonne back e culminate our direction you can be awaits in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, in 1999 was the four-course food tour sauntering through the largest region in France stunning scenery of France in the sun- Barcelona. We can and one of great geographical and relaxed lifestyle: drenched southern have the bright lights contrasts: from Poitou- “I love the rolling hills and picturesque region of Provence- and glamour of La CharentesT with its enchanting, fairytale-like historic towns with their traditional bars Alpes-CôteW d’Azur, a golden land of plenty Croisette in Cannes, or Marais Poitevin marshlands, to the rugged and restaurants,” she says. “Summer fields that entices the senses with spectacular more simply, tranquil landscapes of Pyrénées-Atlantiques, where are a gorgeous mix of fruiting vines, vibrant landscapes and sweet aromas. Private time exploring the the Basque Country proudly distinguishes sunflowers, stands of maize, wheat, and chef and food writer Mel Sinclair left her Estérel massif and the breathtaking itself with its own language, culture and of course, the regional cattle, Blondes native Orkney in 2007 and now lives in views. Every time I run at sunrise, I stop cherished traditions. d’Aquitaine, all set among oak woodlands, Mandelieu-la-Napoule with her French and think how lucky I am to live in such a In the heartland of this area, especially plum and hazelnut trees – just beautiful!” husband and two young sons. “PACA is a beautiful place.” in the departments of Dordogne and Lot-et- If duck does not appeal, head west very diverse area with When it comes to desserts, the Tarte Garonne, ducks and geese are the culinary to Bordeaux – the capital of Gironde and so much to offer. Tropézienne is a ‘must-try’ according to gems featured on menus of restaurants gateway to the region’s noble vineyards – and There are so many Mel. Consisting of a brioche cake filled serving regional fare. Entrées include silky feast on a succulent entrecôte à la bordelaise nationalities here and with vanilla cream and topped with pearl foie gras sprinkled with fleur de sel and served (rib-eye steaks with red wine sauce, shallots the proximity for sugar, it was first made in St-Tropez in 1955 on toasted brioche or crusty bread, while and bone marrow). Further south in the Pays travel is immense,” by Polish baker Alexandre Micka. Should duck specialities such as magret de canard and Basque, the region’s rustic cuisine gradually she says. “Within you be in the mood for a more delicate end confit de canard are offered as mains. Magret, gives way to colourful dishes generously an hour you can to your meal, try calissons (left), the pride eek; the breast, is grilled or pan-fried in its own fat seasoned with piment d’Espelette. Come the b be at the market in of Aix-en-Provence. The yellow and white, and best enjoyed medium-rare with a side of late summer, bunches of the bright Italy, within five almond-shaped sweets are made from parsleyed potatoes (pommes sarladaises). red peppers are hung to dry from the hours the other a paste of crushed candied melons and e-france

The rest of the duck is preserved as confit facades of houses in the pretty village d blanched ground almonds. ; Paola West ; Paola CRTA and utterly delectable with a simply of Espelette, before being ground d Fresh fruit, of course, is not a bad

dressed frisée salad and an elegant bottle into a delicately spicy condiment aillar option either. The region is famous G of Pécharmant, one of the 13 appellations used in regional classics such as The Tarte Tropézienne (right) for its succulent Solliès figs, 64/P T 64/P D of the Bergerac wine region. poulet basquaise and piperade. With C was served on the set of muscat du Ventoux grapes British expat Tina Raison, a jewellery tomatoes, onions and red and green the movie Et Dieu... créa and Cavaillon melons. ezienne.fr; region hauts- p

designer and artist based in the medieval peppers, these dishes reflect the e Prigent; la femme, starring Brigitte Considering the rich dishes d

village of Duras, counts magret colours of the Basque flag. The lau Bardot, who took a liking to that led to dessert, that may C

and confit as favourite dishes, addition of Bayonne ham, a regional just be the most sensible eek; it and suggested it be named b

but what attracted her to Lot- speciality, is quite common in both.  after the glamorous town. thing to do! lores; lores; latartetro

F ansWest  H intas intas C  © 

For our cheese course, we seafood, and in fact Boulogne- and the only one in Nord-Pas- orange rind. A ripe Maroilles cheese has an aroma reminiscent creation of a French version of head to Hauts-de-France in the sur-Mer is France’s largest fishing de-Calais to be granted AOC pairs exceptionally well with of hazelnuts and a slightly the cheese. To give Mimolette its north. The region is known for port. But with the colder, wet certification in 1976. The origins sliced pears and a well-structured toasted, caramel taste. Originating distinct appearance, it is coloured its historic cities graced with climate, the regional cuisine is of the brick-shaped cheese gewürztraminer, but it is also in the city of Lille, it has a history with either carotene or annatto marvellous architecture, wide mainly characterised by rich can be traced back to the 10th eaten for breakfast (dipped in that goes back to the Franco- (a natural pigment). Mites are stretches of fertile flatlands, sandy comfort foods and strong, gutsy century when it was first made coffee!), used in sauces and Dutch war. At the time, the part of the cheese’s ageing mites (‘cirons’ in French) are dunes, magnificent woodlands, cheeses that are particularly by Benedictine monks in the found in regional specialities French were quite fond of Dutch process. They are brushed on the harmless and probably long gone and spectacular coastlines with delightful either before or abbey of the eponymous village. such as the tarte au maroilles Edam, much to the disapproval surface and make tiny craters by the time you eat the cheese, handsome seaside towns such instead of dessert. Made from cow’s milk, the soft, Fromage and the flamiche. of King Louis XIV who not only that allow air to circulate through which is perfect with a juicy as Le Touquet-Paris-Plage and Maroilles is one of the most earthy cheese has a pungent, Another excellent cheese banned the import of Dutch the cheese paste and enhance bunch of grapes and a spicy, red Wimereux. There’s plenty of famous cheeses of the north heady aroma and a reddish- Hauts-de-France is Mimolette. The hard, round products, but also demanded the its flavour. But don’t worry – the Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

42 Living France January 2018 completefrance.com completefrance.com January 2018 Living France 43