WA Trails 01-06

Northwest Explorer A classic trek: Peru’s 28-mile Inca Trail EHER N takes hikers to the ancient city of ON J Machu Picchu. The high-altitude route Ancient Trails crosses three passes, each at elevations over 12,000 feet. (elevation 11,207 feet) several days before the hike to allow for acclimatiza- tion both to the altitude and the culture. Flying up from sea level, most of us developed pounding headaches and mild nausea within a few hours of arrival. We were advised to try the local cure—copious amounts of hot coca tea (reminiscent of green bean water, certainly an acquired taste). The evening before the hike, our guide joined us at our hotel and discussed equipment and answered our questions about the trip. The next morning our guide returned at 4:30 a.m. in a private bus to collect us for the several-hour trip from Cusco into the Urubamba River Valley. As the sun came up, we got our first jaw- dropping glimpse of the high Andes on the far side of the river. The pavement gave out at Ollantaytambo (where we briefly stopped to pick up our porters) and 8.5 miles later the residual gravel road dead-ended at the trailhead (elevation 8,528 feet). The trailhead can also be accessed by train from Cusco, but this journey takes considerably longer than by private bus. Our porters carried most of the camping gear while we “clients” carried just our ten essentials, plus personal items such as cameras and binoculars. Hiking to Machu Picchu The porters quickly disappeared up the trail to prepare a picnic spot for lunch on Peru’s Inca Trail while we got into line at the entry gate to gather our hiking permits (US $50 By Jon O. Neher commonly—as a trek in the classic style for the trail and access to the ruins). with a guide and porters. Excellent, With the appropriate papers finally in Peru’s Inca Trail extends 28 miles environmentally and socially respon- hand, we headed off. from the Urubamba River Valley (a.k.a. sible guide services, such as Enigma For the first 3 miles, the trail fol- the Sacred Valley of the Incas), crosses and GAP, are available on this route. lowed the Urubamba River down- over three breath-taking Andean passes, The trail is extremely popular, so access stream, while the railroad—which and finally descends into the ruins of has been limited and advance reserva- followed the river all the way to Machu Machu Picchu. For most travelers, it tions are necessary. Picchu—ran along the opposite bank. takes three or four days and may be Our group of six trekkers collected in Here the terrain was rocky and dry, done as a backpack trip or—more the delightful city of Cusco, Peru with cacti and scrub along the trail. January/February 2006 WASHINGTON TRAILS Northwest Explorer Local children on mountain bikes EHER occasionally coasted past, on their way N ON to school. The trail then turned up J Kusichaca Canyon as it passed a couple of modest-sized Inca ruins that were still being excavated. The trail gained elevation gently along a lively stream for 4.3 miles to the village of Wayllabamba (elevation 10,137 feet). This was the last commu- nity that we would encounter—and here we stopped for lunch. We were delighted to discover that our camp cook was also a chef in a respected Cusco restaurant during the off-season and so we were treated to the first of many excellent multi-course meals that incorporated local produce and meats. The porters who were not part of the lunch crew went on ahead to set up our Taking a break at camp for the evening. the summit of After lunch, we headed up a dry side Wamri Wañusca canyon out of Wayllabamba and the (“Dead work really began. The morning fog Woman’s”) Pass, cleared and the tropical sun came out elevation 13,776 in full force. The trail pitched steeply feet. Knife-edge upward toward the first of three passes, ridges, tremen- Warmi Wañusca, or “Dead Woman’s dous views and Pass”) We didn’t quite reach it on the bloodsucking first day. Here we saw the first evidence sand flies await of Inca handiwork on the trail itself. the intrepid hiker. Much of this section of trail was him still to play a spirited tune on his composed of rock steps and rock-paved break down camp and get ahead of us Andean flute. It was an amazing feat of trail wide enough for two people to all before we were even halfway to the endurance. walk abreast. (Note to WTA crew first pass. The steep slopes were Most of the rest of the day was spend leaders: if you want your trail to last covered with bunch grass and a curious losing and regaining altitude to reach 700 years, consider paving stones.) flowering shrub that attracted giant the second pass. The trail skirted a We arrived at our first camp 12 miles purple hummingbirds. Several snow- number of small but pretty lakes, a from the trailhead (Llulluchapampa, dusted peaks flanked both sides of the series of waterfalls and a well- restored elevation 12,589 feet) by late afternoon pass. When we asked our guide what Inca guard house that was probably and found all the tents up and basins of they were called, he said the locals did used to control the flow of people and hot water set out for us to clean up not bother naming peaks that were only goods along the road. Crossing over the before tea. Headaches and nausea had 15,000 to 17,000 feet high. second pass (Runkuraqay, 12,916 feet), returned for some, so we augmented We reached the summit of Dead the microclimate suddenly changed and our coca tea with acetazolaminde Woman’s Pass (13,776 feet) at about we found ourselves gently descending (Diamox). However, the subsequent 10 a.m. and from the crest could see into a cloud forest where we made dinner was delicious and as the alpine the Inca Trail’s second pass only about camp after logging about 8 miles for the glow died away, we enjoyed a great view 3 miles away as the crow flies. But day. of snowcapped Wayanay (17,866 feet) between us and the pass lay a 2,300- We were hiking in September, near on the opposite side of the valley. A foot descent and a 1,400 foot climb— the end of the tropical dry season. brisk wind blowing down from the pass much of it over well-engineered Inca Consequently, we encountered very ensured that we hit the sleeping bags as stone steps. As we stood there taking in few mosquitoes, but we had a difficult soon as the light was gone. the view and gasping for air, a porter time evading the other local blood We left camp soon after a hearty from another group literally jogged past sucking insect—the sand fly. Our camp breakfast. The porters managed to carrying a full pack with enough wind in WASHINGTON TRAILS January/February 2006 Northwest Explorer EHER rolled out a seven- itself. From the silent walls, many N ON course lunch. When we windows opened out onto views of J had slept that off, our dizzying gorges, lush hills and blue guide took us on a side Andean ridges rising one upon the trip to the Wiñay other to the horizon. I felt certain that Wayna ruins, notable the Inca—arguably the world’s best for its extensive terraces trail builders—must have enjoyed living and long chain of here. ceremonial baths. We wanted to stay longer, but the While the trekker’s tropical sun came out in force and camp boasted a lively eventually forced us to retreat. Grudg- lodge with libations and ingly, we hopped on the shuttle bus music into the wee down into tiny Pueblo Machu Picchu hours, our campsite for shade and refreshments and to wait was quiet by 8 p.m. for the train that would take us back to The last day of our Cusco. Contemplating our journey over trip, we were up before a few cold cervezas, I thought of giant dawn and stumbled purple hummingbirds and found myself along the trail by already missing being on the trail. flashlight. We showed our park permits to a Jon Neher is a WTA member from very sleepy guard at the Renton. last checkpoint. The Low-maintenance trails: dating back perhaps 700 trail then gently EHER years, the stone-paved trails created by the Inca are a N ON bit more enduring than those in Washington state. dropped J and was in a sheltered dry lake bed, there regained a few hundred feet was very little wind (like mosquitoes, as it approached Inti Punku sand flies are poor flyers) and DEET (the Sun Gate). We arrived was essential. at the small cluster of stone In the clear dawn air the next day, we buildings at 8 a.m., as the could see glacier-wrapped Salkantay first rays of the sun broke (20,601 feet), as well as many nameless over a distant jagged ridge. lower peaks on the northern horizon. We looked down into the From this point, the Inca Trail con- city of Machu Picchu, still toured along a series of knife-edge seven hundred feet below ridges with mile-deep valleys plunging us, just as it was touched by away on all sides, through several short the dawn.

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