■ INSIDE ■ NEWS ■ FILM Letters 2 Paolo Shoes A Filmmaker’s Street Talk 3 Crime Watch 4 Gets a Reprieve Coff ee Passion New Neighbors 5 Lease on a key corner Premiering this month, Film 7 extended for two years a story born on Fillmore Home Sales 14 PAGE 3 PAGE 7 THE NEW FILLMORE
SAN FRANCISCO ■ APRILJUNE 20142010
The Story OF THE Fillmore Th ree Cataclysmic Events Transformed the Neighborhood
By Gary Kamiya
geologist would call the block of Fillmore Street between Post and Sutter a A“triple junction.” It’s one of those three- way collisions where a swanky part of town crashes into a seedy one, while a completely diff erent quarter sideswipes both of them. In 1974, my cousin Jonathan and I were house-sitting four blocks away at Pine and Buchanan, in a majestic, decaying Victorian with a big psychedelic mandala painted in an alcove. We didn’t know it at the time, but our building was a weird precursor to the Summer of Love. In 1965, that stretch of Pine Street had been a pre- Haight hippie scene, with half a dozen houses fi lled with longhairs and deal- ers. Th e downstairs unit had been home to the legendary hippie newspaper the Oracle. Across the street, at 2111 Pine, a rooming house once stood; some of the itinerant musicians there played in a vanished after-hours jazz club three blocks away called Bop City. Th e room- ing house was managed by a guy named Bill Ham, who invented psychedelic light shows. Our block was mostly black and pretty run-down. We used to walk down to Kim’s Market at Pine and Fillmore (now a Kiehl’s, which sells $50 bottles David Johnson’s classic 1946 photograph captured the intersection of the Fillmore and Japantown at Fillmore and Post Streets. of shampoo) to buy our daily $2 ration of sausages, carrots and potatoes. If you Th ose fi ve Victorians were not built turned right on Fillmore, in a block you Th e Western Addition is 160 years old. A more suitable name, there. Th ey were saved from the wreck- would come to California Street, the considering the way the city has treated the neighborhood ing ball, raised up from their original city’s great north-south dividing line. sites and plunked down on Fillmore. California was and is the unoffi cial and its residents, might be the Western Subtraction. Th e block felt weird because the set- border of Pacifi c Heights, the swanki- backs were too deep. est neighborhood in town. Turn left started to become disheveled, a no- Sutter. I remember being subliminally It is appropriate that this line of Vic- and you would quickly end up in the man’s-land traversed by Japanese, blacks aware that there was something odd torians stands out. For one of its build- unswankiest neighborhood in town. and a few confused tourists looking for about the east side of the street. Its feng ings has a history so rich and strange Past Kim’s Market, as you walked Japantown. Once you crossed the ugly, shui was wrong. In particular, there was that an entire book could be written toward Bush, the block was a grab bag, multi-lane Geary Expressway, you were something weird about a row of fi ve about it. Th e house at 1712 Fillmore with a venerable Japanese restaurant in the heart of black San Francisco. stately Victorians. But I couldn’t put is San Francisco’s version of Joyce’s rubbing shoulders with a jumping jazz Some years after I moved out of my fi nger on it. 7 Eccles Street. It is a universe on a and R&B joint called Minnie’s Can-Do the neighborhood, I happened to fi nd It took me a few decades, but I 27½-by-93-foot lot. Club. In the block after Bush, things myself on Fillmore between Post and fi nally learned why that block felt off . TO PAGE 8 X LETTERS The art of fashion is my life. Save Shell Auto Repair Now I can devote to the editors: the opportunity to voice their opinions am really, really upset to learn in meetings in the neighborhood. Th ank myself to it. that Shell at California and Steiner you. is seeking to close my service sta- Sally Cancelmo Ition [“Shell Station May Add a New ■ Convenience Store,” May]. I have been lease do whatever you can to taking my car for rep0air there for many keep the Shell Auto Repair from years. Th is neighborhood needs the being turned into yet another repair shop. Puseless and sterile “mini-mart.” I live We need Doug and Chelsea, who are within sight of this establishment. reputable, honest and skilled, and who We need this useful auto repair ser- serve the local community. Th e very idea vice in the neighborhood. We don’t need that a repair service, vital to the neigh- another over-priced fast food place. borhood, will be bulldozed and replaced Steve Lerner by a Loop store is ludicrous and infuri- ■ ating. Groceries are available within 100 e were upset to learn that feet at Mollie Stone’s, plus coff ee can be the auto repair services at had up and down Fillmore Street. the Shell station at the cor- Living on Sutter Street just blocks Wner of Steiner and California are threat- Gonbee Tanaka doesn’t follow trends. He starts from Fillmore Street for 30 years, I have ened with closure. Th e plan to create an them. This former fashion designer, who currently seen so many small businesses and mer- enlarged food emporium on that site teaches at the Academy of Art University, lives at chants leave or be forced from the dis- would incorporate the entire building The Sequoias. And he finds it to be just his style. trict because of high rents and chang- next to the gas station. Th e auto repair Gonbee likes the friendly people, cultural diversity ing demographics. I always shop local facility, run by two highly competent and try to support small businesses, but mechanics, serves countless car own- and his spacious two-bedroom apartment with an that has become increasingly diffi cult as ers in our Fillmore neighborhood. Th ey amazing view. And he loves not having to worry new upscale clothing and design stores perform much-needed services that about cooking, cleaning, or access to medical care. take the place of hardware stores, phar- would be taken away from local resi- Does all this sound like your style, too? macies, coff ee shops, stationery stores, dents, who are still adjusting to the loss Call Candiece at (415) 351-7900 to learn more. bookstores, etc. — businesses that serve of a hardware store, a stationers, a mail the people of the neighborhood. house and countless other useful busi- Must we drive our cars on San Fran- nesses. An expanded food shop at the
A Life Care Community cisco’s increasingly clogged streets to a station is not needed, what with a major 415.922.9700 | sequoias-sf.org service station in another part of town? market and several restaurants less than 1400 Geary Boulevard Neighborhoods that have merchants a block away. who know and serve the residents are We urge Shell to reconsider and to essential to maintain a strong commu- allow highly effi cient, highly regarded
This not-for-profit community is part of Northern California Presbyterian nity. Shell Auto Repair to remain. Homes and Services. License# 380500593 COA# 097 Please make sure this community has Peggy and Lee Zeigler
THE NEW FILLMORE newfi llmore.com
2184 Sutter Street #202 ■ San Francisco, CA 94115 ■ 415.441.6070 editors@newfi llmore.com
Editors | Barbara Kate Repa & Thomas R. Reynolds Production Editor | Ginny Lindsay Copy Editor | Donna Gillespie
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Connecting the neighborhood Every month, 20,000 copies of the New Fillmore are delivered to homes and businesses in the Fillmore, Pacifi c Heights and Japantown. We thank you for your support and encouragement and welcome your ideas and suggestions.
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2 NEW FILLMORE June 2014 ■ STREET TALK NEIGHBORHOOD NEWS Paolo Shoes Is Staying on Fillmore By Chris Barnett
he rancorous lease dispute between Paolo Shoes and its land- lord has been resolved out of court, Tand the custom Italian shoemaker won’t be taking a hike from the corner of Fillmore and Pine for at least two more years. New nightclub opens Th e clash between the two San Fran- in the jazz district cisco real estate dynasties was recently settled as Paolo Shoes and Webco Group “We made amends A showy new nightclub featuring LLC and their lawyers met in the halls and settled on a DJs, dancing and bottle service rent that is twice opened May 9 at 1538 Fillmore, of the courthouse awaiting a mandatory what I am paying the former home of Rasselas jazz settlement conference of a lawsuit based on now, but still below club. ORIGIN BOUTIQUE NIGHTCLUB, a disagreement that had dragged on for 10 market,” says Paolo owned by the founders of the months with neither side budging. Iantorno, owner of Grand Nightclub south of Market, is “We made amends and settled on a rent Paolo Shoes. offering weekend previews on Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30 p.m. that is twice what I am paying now, but still to 2:30 a.m. To get on the guest list, below market,” says Paolo Iantorno, the DANIEL BAHMANI visit originsf.com. tenant and owner of the store. Under terms ■ of the agreement, he will pay $10,000 a close what precisely brought the factions not meet a deadline in the existing lease. MORE FASHION: Fillmore’s newest month rent for the fi rst year and $10,500 to an agreement. But he hints that his dad [See “Getting the Boot,” February 2014.] fashion boutique is now open. a month in the second year. Previously, he made certain amends and pointed out that Both sides hired lawyers and spent the JARBO, which specializes in was paying $5 a foot for the 1,000-square- Paolo had been in the storefront for 10 fall and winter haggling. European-infl uenced designs for women, has taken over the space foot storefront at 2000 Fillmore Street. years and in the Fillmore neighborhood for Th ese days, Paolo Iantorno, who has at 2408 Fillmore that was formerly Patrick Szeto, a member of the family 15 years and had been a good tenant during two other retail stores in Hayes Valley — home to Erica Tanov. They’ve also that owns Webco Group and American those years. including one called Duke et Duchess that recently opened in Palo Alto and Realty and Construction Co., did not “For Patrick, I now understand that sells its own line of jeans and accessories, Beverly Hills . . . Almost ready to return calls or respond to an email seeking it was business and not personal,” says — is spending most of his time working open is a French fashion fi rm, THE comment. Iantorno. “We settled our diff erences — for the family real estate business, Realty KOOPLES, coming to 2241 Fillmore, formerly home of Clary Sage. “We met for four hours in the halls and despite the fact that he had a prospective West. He is doing hands-on renovations of
■ we each had our lawyer with us,” Iantorno tenant ready to move in and pay $15,500 apartment complexes and mixed-use retail A FAN FAVORITE: The one-of-a-kind says. “Th e mood, to be honest, was fi ne. to $16,500 a month.” and residential properties. fashion shop ASMBLY HALL at 1850 Very constructive. Th ere was no anger or Th e amiable resolution was a 180 degree Iantorno says he is grateful his Fillmore Fillmore, owned by the husband- emotion and we talked everything out.” turnaround from earlier this year when Street hassle is behind him. and-wife team Ron and Tricia Still, both sides were at an impasse and Paolo Shoes faced eviction on Valentine’s “My dad and I were talking,” he says. Benitez, was the readers’ choice for favorite small business in S.F. by ready to go to trial until Iantorno’s father, Day when his lease expired. Webco would “Maybe there is some way our two families readers of the weekly Bay Guardian. Sergio Iantorno, showed up and acted as not extend the lease, claiming Iantorno’s can work together on a deal. I would like unoffi cial mediator. His son will not dis- request in July 2013 for an extension did that.”
June 2014 NEW FILLMORE 3 CRIME WATCH
Stolen Vehicle handgun. Th e suspect was transported to he was “just outside playing the fl ute.” and took her bag, which contained an iPad, Washington Street and Van Ness Avenue Northern Station. He claimed the laptop belonged to phone and wallet. Th e woman saw the sus- April 16, 4:40 a.m. him. Offi cers asked him where he bought pect was wearing a mask as he fl ed south Offi cers on patrol ran a computer check Vandalism to Vehicle, it. First he said he found it, then said a on Divisadero. Passersby recovered the bag on a motorcycle and learned it had been Theft from Locked Vehicle school janitor had given it to him. Th e and a notebook, and returned them to the reported stolen. When they approached the California and Steiner Streets offi cers ran a computer check and found woman. Th e suspect was described as a two riders, the female put her helmet on April 23, 7 p.m. outstanding warrants. Police were unable black male, 19 to 23 years old, wearing a and jumped onto the back of the bike. Th e A witness reported seeing three men to locate either the 911 caller or the owner black windbreaker. male started the bike and drove off . Police peering into cars in the parking lot. Th ey had of the laptop, nor did they fi nd any damage broadcast the incident to assisting offi cers, already broken into one vehicle and taken to trees in the area. Th e man was booked at Aggravated Assault, Stalking who located the fl eeing suspects a few items from it. As the police arrived, the sus- Northern Station. Sacramento and Steiner Streets blocks away. Th e woman jumped off the pects were loading their vehicle with stolen May 18, 3:55 p.m. bike, threw aside her helmet and attempted property. When the three saw the offi cers, Possession of Stolen Property, A woman who was returning home to walk away; the bike fell onto its side. they crouched down inside the car. Th e wit- Burglary Tools found a man wielding a knife standing in As the police closed in, the driver tried to ness had taken video footage of the suspects Buchanan Street and Pacifi c Avenue front of her house. She waited around the pick up the motorcycle and start it. When breaking into cars, which he turned over to May 3, 4:32 a.m. corner for a time, then tried again to enter he failed, the offi cers put him in hand- the police. Th e three men were booked at Offi cers met with a security guard who her home, believing the man had left. But cuff s. Police found a small bottle of liquid Northern Station. Offi cers located the cars’ saw a man break the window of a Toyota she ran into him as she walked around the heroin in the driver’s pocket. He stated his owners and returned their property. Prius. Th e security guard shouted at the corner and he prevented her from getting friend had given him the motorcycle and suspect, who fl ed. Th e police saw a box on inside. She asked a passerby for help, but he was just having fun driving his girlfriend Narcotics the back seat containing snow gear. the suspect brandished the knife and chased around the city. But when offi cers examined Washington Street and Presidio Avenue Near the scene of the break-in, offi cers the person away. She eventually managed the motorcycle, they discovered its ignition April 26, 6:30 p.m. found two women crouching behind bushes. to get inside, but the suspect forced his way had been punched to make it start. Th ey Offi cers stopped a bicyclist for a mov- Th ey were carrying ski goggles along with into the building. Police searched the build- contacted the bike’s owner, who told them ing violation and discovered an outstand- a fl ashlight, a set of shaved keys and tools ing and found the man hiding in a closet. it had been stolen several days ago. Th e two ing warrant for his arrest from Alameda typically used to break auto glass. He was charged with aggravated assault, suspects were booked at county jail. County. Th ey then searched the suspect Th e security guard said the women were burglary, false imprisonment and stalking. and found methamphetamine in his not the suspects who broke the car’s win- Carrying a Concealed Weapon, pocket. When shown the narcotic, the dow. Because they were on probation for Robbery with a Gun Traffi c Violation bicyclist responded, “What’s that? Th ese auto burglary and had attempted to hide Post and Broderick Streets Franklin and Greenwich Streets are not my pants.” Th e man was charged from the offi cers, they were handcuff ed May 20, 12:10 a.m. April 20, 5:40 p.m. with a narcotics violation. and transported to Northern Station, then A man walking down the street was A motorist fl agged down offi cers and booked at county jail. approached by two other men, one of stated he had just been in an altercation Outstanding Warrant whom was armed with a shotgun. Th e men with another driver who pointed a gun at Webster and Post Streets Robbery told the pedestrian to give up his bag; he him, then drove off . He gave the police a April 27, 10:32 p.m. Washington and Divisadero Streets complied. Th en they told the man to run good description of the man. Th ey found Offi cers received a complaint about May 9, 7:50 a.m. for his life, which he did. Inside the bag him several blocks away. When offi cers a man defacing a tree with a large A woman was walking down the street were his iPhone and wallet. Th e suspects spoke with the suspect they spotted an knife. When they arrived, they found the wearing headphones when a man grabbed were described as two black males; one open bottle of beer and a white pill on the suspect holding a laptop. A pat search her from behind and wrapped his arms wore a ski mask and a black hooded sweat- passenger’s seat, which they identifi ed as for weapons revealed he was carrying a around her. Th e assailant ripped the head- shirt, and the other wore white tennis shoes Oxycodone. Beneath the driver’s seat they 15-inch-long knife. When offi cers asked phones from her ears and demanded her and a hooded sweatshirt. Th e matter is still found a fully loaded, cocked, 45-caliber him what he was doing with it he said that property. Th en he forced her to the ground under investigation.
Join us to see proposed plans for UCSF’s future
LRDP COMMUNITY MEETING LRDP COMMUNITY MEETING UCSF has published the draft of its 2014 Long Range – MISSION BAY – PARNASSUS Development Plan (LRDP), which will guide the university’s physical development through 2035. Community involvement is Monday, June 16 Wednesday, June 18 a key facet of this planning process, and community participation 6:30 PM 6:30 PM at UCSF’s seven LRDP workshops helped shape the LRDP’s UCSF Genentech Hall UCSF Millberry Union proposals for further development of its campus sites. th th (at 4 & 16 Streets) Conference Center Join us at an LRDP Informational Meeting to learn about UCSF’s th 600 – 16 Street 500 Parnassus Avenue proposals for its future development. UCSF’s neighbors and the public will be able to review and provide feedback on the draft For more information, contact: For more information, contact: Michele [email protected] Christine [email protected] LRDP through the end of September 2014. The draft LRDP is 415/476-3024 415/476-8431 available at www.ucsf.edu/LRDP.
The UCSF Mission Bay Campus is The UCSF Parnassus Campus is on The public will also have the opportunity to comment on the accessible using the MUNI T-Third light rail MUNI lines 6, 43, 66, N-Judah. If you LRDP’s draft Environmental Impact Report (EIR), which line. If you must drive, please park at no must drive, validated parking is available considers the potential environmental consequences of cost in the surface lot next to the Third in the UCSF public parking garage for implementing the 2014 LRDP. The Draft EIR is expected to be Street Garage, this lot can be accessed by $1.75. published late summer/early fall 2014 and will have a 60-day taking 16th Street to 4th Street. public comment period.
Complimentary parking is not available in To review the LRDP, please go to the garages. ______www.ucsf.edu/LRDP
If you would like to be on our email notification list, please email UCSF fully ascribes to the Americans with Disabilities Act. If at any time you feel you [email protected], specifying the campus site(s) of interest: have a need for accommodation, please contact UCSF Community & Government Parnassus, Mission Bay, Laurel Heights, Mount Zion, San Francisco Relations at 415.476.3206 or [email protected] with your suggested accommodation. General Hospital.
4 NEW FILLMORE June 2014 NEW NEIGHBORS
Small on Space, Big on Style Velvety Nails and Beauty Spa now open on Sutter
on’t expect to stop by Velvety on Sutter near Pierce, near a number of Nails & Beauty Spa for a quick new businesses beginning to thrive. fi x. Lu Lu, the owner of the In transforming the space, she got help neighborhood’sD newest spa at 2183 Sutter from a friend, Kevin Lau, a longtime con- — which off ers manicures, pedicures, hair tractor. removal and eyelash treatments — believes “I want people to feel glamorous when that quality cannot be hurried. they walk in,” he says. “Th is place is small, “We take a whole hour to do a pedi- but it has the feeling of bigness. It’s really a cure,” she says. “After cutting and shaping good size and shape for this business.” each toenail, we put the two feet together In addition to a menu of nail and eye to make sure the nails are the same size and treatments, Velvety off ers sugaring — shape,” a step skipped a method of hair in most nail salons. removal that’s touted She also asks Vel- as more natural than vety’s fi ve employees to waxing, and avail- The new Velvety Nails and Beauty Spa, located at 2183 Sutter Street, offers a wide array speak quietly in Eng- able in only a hand- of high-end nail polishes and other unique treatments in a small but elegant setting. lish with clients and ful of salons around to refrain from talking the city. Sugaring on the phone or eating practitioners must be while on the job, pre- specially trained and emptively warding off certifi ed. a few common peeves of spa customers. “Sugaring takes off the hair from the And she puts each employee through a follicle and doesn’t burn the skin,” Lu says. tryout before hiring and then gives them “And afterward, new hair grows out softer more individual training, even those who and thinner.” have many years of experience in other Lu will still perform waxing on lips and spas. “I want a diff erent skill,” she says. brows for clients who prefer it. “I want people who are gentle, especially Additional specialized treatments Vel- when doing things like pushing back cuti- vety off ers include eyelash perms for those cles — and who know to ask clients what who want their eyelashes to appear more they want and to listen to them.” pronounced, plus eyelash extensions to At Velvety, nail clients can chose from a augment short or skimpy lashes. wide array of high-end polishes not found Tinting is also off ered to make brows in many spas, including Chanel and Lipp- and lashes more prominent — although Lu mann. “We don’t charge extra, so they can steadfastly refuses to do black brows, insist- feel special,” she says. ing on a softer and more natural brown. “I When searching for a spot to land her want to make sure everyone comes out of new business, Lu was taken by the location here beautiful,” she says. PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN NG Your primary care. Our primary goal.
We’re committed to keeping you healthy. That’s why we’ve made booking an appointment with a primary care doctor easy with online scheduling. Visit sanfranciscomedicalgroup.org for an appointment.
June 2014 NEW FILLMORE 5 ELITE FINE JEWELRY
Custom Jewelry Designs Jewelry & Watch Repair Diamond Brokers Buy and Appraise Watches, Coins, Jewelry & Estates COURTESY OF KAISER COURTESY Rendering of the orchard of apple, pear and fi g trees growing at Divisadero and Geary. 2480 Sacramento (at Fillmore) | 415-931-9100 sffinejewelry.com | [email protected] Empty Lot Becomes an Orchard et a thousand fl owers blos- ago with an eye to future expansion. It paid som,” Chairman Mao suppos- more than six fi gures each to get longtime FOREST BOOKS edly said. tenants out of a deteriorating 21-unit pink “LKaiser Permanente has taken a similar apartment building and, with a group of Quality Used & Rare Books approach with the block-long empty lot local ministers, built 21 replacement apart- at Divisadero and Geary it fought — and ments across O’Farrell Street. paid dearly — to clear for a new medical “Kaiser came up with a lot of money — building, now delayed. a lot of money,” says Bush Street resident Just beginning to bear fi rst fruit in the Jan Bolaffi , a member of the task force. “By summer sun is a new orchard with four the time all that was done, the demograph- kinds of apple trees, three varieties of plum ics of the city had changed.” trees, plus a few fi gs, all chosen for this Kaiser decided its new medical building microclimate. Th ey’re planted in four huge should be in Mission Bay and put off plans stone planters and surrounded by hundreds to expand at Geary and Divisadero. of other plants and vines growing along an But what to do with the empty lot? estate-quality fence. “We’d heard that FUF was going to “We needed a solution that everyone, be planting these urban orchards,” says including the city, was going to be happy Jay Murphy, manager of capital projects with,” says Randy Wittorp, a spokesman for Kaiser, who served on FUF’s board Japantown Plaza | 1748 Buchanan Street for Kaiser. of directors for three years. “We thought, Th e orchard grew out of a collaboration what if instead of traditional landscaping 415-563-8302 | Open Daily Noon until 8 pm | forestbooks.net between Kaiser and Friends of the Urban we gave the community an orchard?” Forest (FUF), urged on by a community Th e trees will likely be moved at some task force. Kaiser bought the property years point when construction proceeds.
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6 NEW FILLMORE June 2014 FILM
A New Film About Coff ee, Birthed at Jane Th e fi lmmaker is a local, too
By Brandon Loper For his new fi lm about coffee, Fillmore fi lmmaker Brandon Loper (left) trekked up a mountain in Honduras, hile i’ve been a coff ee drinker for some where he met coffee producer David Mancia (above, time, it wasn’t until I moved from northern holding a cup of his own coffee). Alabama to San Francisco about 13 years Wago that I really became a “coff ee person.” In Alabama, I San Francisco for Stumptown, which also has coff ee bars drank Folgers from a Mr. Coff ee coff eemaker and doused and roasteries in Portland, Seattle, Los Angeles and New it with plenty of hazelnut-fl avored creamer. In my view, York. coff ee came in a can from Wal-Mart. Jane began having weekly “cuppings” — basically, tast- But one of the fi rst things that intrigued me after ings of diff erent seasonal coff ees — including Guatemala moving here was a little coff ee shop with a roll-up door Finca El Injerto-La Calaca, a high-end coff ee that sold located in an alley. It wasn’t a secret coff ee shop, but it for $125 for 12 ounces. I stood by the crowded bar as wasn’t trying too hard — and that seemed fascinating and others slurped and commented on how good — and how cool. It helped that the drinks were delicious. Th e place expensive — it was. I bought a single cup for $14. Th at’s was Blue Bottle Coff ee, which then featured “Misty Val- when I met Travis Hale, who had organized the cupping, ley.” Th ere was something diff erent about that coff ee: It and told him about my fi lm, which was then well under- tasted like blueberry cobbler and I couldn’t get enough. I asked the baristas at Jane a lot of questions. Th ey were way. Travis introduced me to the green coff ee buyer — Th at coff ee from Ethiopia sank its teeth into me, and I knowledgeable and friendly and would answer happily. I and the next thing you know I was on a plane to Kigali, had to know more. had my own personal Cheers, which plays a major role in Rwanda, with my production team. Th is was the missing I began trying diff erent coff ees all over the city. I didn’t a new fi lm I directed, A Film About Coff ee, which has its link in my fi lm and provided by far the largest chunk of care about atmosphere or attitudes; I was in search of San Francisco premiere this month. the story. delicious coff ee, something special. My passion for cof- Th e project started taking shape with a few interviews You never really know what can come out of connect- fee conveniently coincided with the opening of Jane on in San Francisco, a trip to Honduras with the green buyer ing with someone over coff ee in the neighborhood. Fillmore Street a few blocks from our apartment. If you from Ritual Coff ee and an extremely eye-opening trip to consider yourself a coff ee person, you get really intrigued Tokyo to explore the Japanese relationship with coff ee. A Film About Coff ee has its San Francisco premiere at when you walk into a coff ee shop and notice, “Oh, they’re During the production of the fi lm, I would hang out the Castro Th eatre on June 3. Doors open at 6:30 for free doing a pour-over.” Or, “Hmmm, brewing Four Barrel at Jane and try coff ees quite a bit, noting as they switched coff ee from Blue Bottle, Ritual and Four Barrel Coff ee; the today.” Details are king in specialty coff ee, and places live from Four Barrel to De La Paz to Stumptown. When they fi lm begins at 7:30. For tickets and more information, go to and, sadly, die by them. made the switch, they were the only wholesale account in afi lmaboutcoff ee.com.
STAND OUT FROM THE CROWD
ENROLL NOW AT CITY COLLEGE OF SAN FRANCISCO
www.ccsf.edu
June 2014 NEW FILLMORE 7 ■ THE STORY OF THE FILLMORE Th ree Cataclysmic Events Transformed the Neighborhood X FROM PAGE ONE Livingston in the Central Valley, soon followed by a col- labor and bloodthirsty tongs, is a menace to the commu- In or around 1895, a three-story Victorian, built in the ony in Cortez, near Turlock. My Japanese grandparents nity; but the sniveling Japanese, who swarms along the exuberant Queen Anne style that was the last hurrah of emigrated to the Cortez colony in the early 1920s; my streets and cringingly off ers his paltry services for a suit Victorian architectural excess, was erected at 1690 Post Nisei father was born in nearby Turlock in 1925.) of clothes and a front seat in our public schools, is a far Street, just east of Buchanan, in the Western Addition. Th e fi rst Japanese in San Francisco lived in South Park greater danger to the laboring portion of society than all Th e name Western Addition is a link with the Gold Rush and on Dupont (Grant) in Chinatown. Like many other the opium-soaked pigtails who have ever blotted the fair days, when the city did not even include all of Nob Hill. ethnic groups, they moved to the Western Addition after name of this beautiful city.” In 1851, San Francisco’s western limit was Larkin Street, 1906. Th e willingness of the neighborhood’s landlords, In February 1942, President Roosevelt signed Execu- a few yards west of my house on Jackson. A year later, many of them Jewish, to rent to Japanese did not sit well tive Order 9066, expelling “all persons of Japanese ances- the booming city extended its boundary 13 blocks west with many whites: In 1907, the Chronicle ran a scare piece try, including aliens and non-aliens,” from West Coast to Divisadero. Th e area north of Market Street between about the Japanese “invasion” of the Western Addition military zones. Every Japanese person in San Francisco Larkin and Divisadero became known as the “Western titled “A Greater San Francisco or a Lesser Nagasaki — was ordered to register and report at various sites for pro- Addition.” Despite the fact that the “addition” is now 160 Which?” cessing. Stripped of their belongings except for what they years old, the name has stuck. A more suitable name, con- Th e Western Addition was one of the most diverse could carry, they mustered at 2020 Van Ness and then sidering the way the city has treated the neighborhood neighborhoods in the country; writer Jerry Flamm calls were sent to “assembly centers,” mainly the Tanforan and its residents, might be the “Western Subtraction.” it San Francisco’s “Little United Nations.” Th e Japanese Racetrack in San Bruno. Most of San Francisco’s Japa- Th e Western Addition was a solidly middle-class and population was a mixture of older, fi rst-generation (Issei) nese residents, including Nippon Drugs co-owner Hat- upper-middle-class neighborhood. Streetcar lines carried immigrants, most of whom were not U.S. citizens, and suto Yamada, were sent to the Topaz internment camp in its merchants and professionals to their offi ces in down- their second-generation (Nisei) children, almost all of Utah, one of 10 hastily built “relocation” camps scattered town San Francisco. By 1900 its residents were mostly whom were citizens. For convenience, I will refer to them across the barren stretches of the country. (My father and native born, three-quarters of them to immigrant par- all as Japanese Americans. his family, from the Central Valley, were mustered at the ents from countries like Germany, Austria, Ireland and At some point after the quake, the majestic Queen Merced Fairgrounds, where my dad had once shown his France. A signifi cant number of them were Jews, mostly Anne Victorian at 1690 Post Street was divided into 4-H Club chickens, and imprisoned at desolate Camp from Germany, attracted by San Francisco’s lack of overt apartments. Sometime before 1920, the Nippon Drug Amache, offi cial name Granada, in Colorado.) By April, anti-Semitism and business opportunities. By the 1870s, Company opened on its ground fl oor. In 1930 the co- Japantown was empty. Jews made up 7 to 8 percent of the city’s population, the owner of Nippon Drugs was a man named J. Hatsuto Sometimes the silences left by cataclysmic events are highest percentage in any city west of New York. Yamada, who lived eight blocks away at Bush and Divisa- the loudest reminders. While researching the city direc- dero. tories, I compared the 1942 listings (compiled before the I. Earthquake & Fire By 1940, more than 5,000 Japanese Americans were internment order) from “Yamada” to “Yamazaki” with the living in Japantown. Th ere were more than 200 Japanese- 1943 listings. In 1942 there are 32 listings — Yamada, he first of the neighborhood’s three great trans- owned businesses. Some owned property; the exact per- Yamagata, Yamaguchi, Yamamoto, Yamasake, Yamazaki. formations was a result of the 1906 fi re. Displaced centage is unclear. Many worked as domestic servants, the In 1943, there are none. Th e names, and the people, are working-class people from the burned-out down- famous “Japanese houseboys.” simply gone. Ttown and South of Market areas poured in. Th e stately Japantown on the eve of the war was a bustling Th e forced removal and imprisonment of 110,000 single-family Victorians were divided into rooms and enclave. It had 40 churches, 17 schools and kindergartens, people, most of them American citizens, for no reason fl ats. Th e neighborhood became more densely populated, a department store and dozens of small businesses. Cul- other than their race, was one of the great injustices in poorer and much more ethnically diverse. Large num- turally, it was a scramble: Th ere were four traditional baths U.S. history. But the sudden departure of 5,000 Japanese bers of working-class Filipinos, Mexican Americans and but also American-style diners serving hot dogs, ham and from the Western Addition proved a boon to another vic- Jews moved in. So did the two ethnic groups whose fates egg sandwiches — and fried noodles. timized group of Americans: blacks. would become entwined in the neighborhood, and in that wooden building on Post Street: African Americans and II. Japanese Internment orld War II was responsible for the great Japanese. infl ux of blacks into San Francisco. Before Blacks began arriving in San Francisco before the Gold hen came Pearl Harbor. After word got out, the war, the city had fewer than 5,000 black Rush, but never in great numbers until World War II. As hostile whites drove through the neighborhood, Wresidents. By the end of the war, 32,000 blacks, drawn by Albert Broussard notes in Black San Francisco: Th e Struggle staring creepily at its inhabitants. Th e authorities good-paying shipyard jobs and the opportunity to get out for Racial Equality in the West, 1900-1954, the lack of fac- Timmediately began arresting “suspicious” Japanese. An of Texas or Louisiana, were living in the city. tory jobs and the distance from the South discouraged incident reported in the December 9 Call-Bulletin reveals Th e jobs were there, but there was literally nowhere for black immigration, but so did the “politely racist” atti- the round-up-the-usual-suspects nature of this early ven- the newcomers to live. Some found housing in the apart- tudes held by many white San Franciscans. Th e early city ture into Homeland Security. Under the headline “Enemy ments that were quickly constructed in Hunters Point, had no racial covenants for blacks and no ghettos, but it Aliens Arrested Here,” the paper gravely reported that but thousands more units were needed. San Francisco was was only the fact that there were so few blacks that cre- three Japanese men had been arrested on suspicion of not an egregiously bigoted city, but many white landlords ated the illusion of unusual tolerance: Th e white citizens taking a photo of an army transport, “although no camera refused to rent to blacks, and overly racist actions were of San Francisco shared many of the racial prejudices was found.” not unheard of. of their fellow white Americans. After 1906, increasing “No camera was found” could have been the motto for In this charged situation, the empty apartment build- numbers of blacks moved into the Western Addition. By the entire hysterical, fear-and-race-driven episode that ings and houses in Japantown were a godsend. Because 1930, almost half of all the 5,000 blacks in the city lived followed. Californians in general and San Franciscans in the neighborhood was already racially mixed, its landlords in the neighborhood. particular had long viewed the Japanese as even worse — were happy to rent to blacks. Between 1940 and 1950, So did most of the Japanese. Th e fi rst Japanese immi- more ambitious, more evil, more underhanded — than the black population of the Western Addition went from grants arrived in San Francisco in 1869, establishing the the despised Chinese. Journalist and historian Carey 2,144 to 14,888. Citywide, the demographic change was fi rst and oldest Japantown in the United States. (One of McWilliams described the hostility as the “California- even more startling: San Francisco went from having the most infl uential early immigrants, a devout Chris- Japanese War.” In 1900 the San Francisco journal Orga- 4,846 black residents in 1940 to 43,502 in 1950. tian and future newspaper editor named Kyutaro Abiko, nized Labor opined, “Chinatown with its reeking fi lth and In one of the stranger urban transformations in Amer- established an agricultural colony of fellow Japanese in dirt, its gambling dens and obscene slave pens, its coolie ican history, the area around Post and Buchanan went
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8 NEW FILLMORE June 2014 Th e forced removal and imprisonment of 110,000 people, most of them American citizens, for no reason other than their race, was one of the great injustices in U.S. history. But the sudden departure of 5,000 Japanese from the Western Addition proved a boon to another victimized group of Americans: blacks. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS LIBRARY from being a Japanese neighborhood to a black one virtu- and hit the streets to drink, party and listen. Th e mile-long altoist Pony Poindexter soloing. Th e young man is leaning ally overnight. Maya Angelou, who as a 13-year-old had stretch of Fillmore and its side streets was packed with slightly forward, his eyes half shut, a slight smile on his moved into a building near that very corner, wrote: “Th e more than two dozen clubs. All the greats came: Charlie face. He is listening so intently, so gently, that his whole Yamamoto Sea Food Market quietly became Sammy’s Parker, John Coltrane, Miles Davis, Dizzy Gillespie, Bil- body seems to be a receptacle for sound. Th e young man Shoe Shine Parlor and Smoke Shop. Yashigira’s Hard- lie Holiday and Dexter Gordon, to name just a few. Even is John Coltrane. ware metamorphosed into La Salon de Beauté owned by Art Tatum, a.k.a. God, played the ’Mo. Bop City carried the torch for 15 glorious years. But Miss Clorinda Jackson. Th e Japanese shops which sold by the early ’60s, musical tastes had changed. Jazz was not products to Nisei customers were taken over by enterpris- n , the old Victorian at 1690 Post underwent as popular with either whites or blacks. Th e club featured ing Negro businessmen, and in less than a year became its strangest transformation yet. Shuttered-up Nip- more R&B. In 1965, owner Charles Sullivan closed it permanent homes away from home for the newly arrived pon Drugs reopened as Vout City, a club run by a down. Southern blacks. Where the aromas of tempura, raw fi sh Ijazz guitarist, pianist, composer and singer named Slim Sullivan was a remarkable man. He was born in Mon- and cha had dominated, the aroma of chitlings, greens Gaillard. Gaillard was a weird and wonderful character, roe County, Alabama, to an illiterate mother. He ran and ham hocks now prevailed.” a musician cousin of Lord Buckley. In addition to speak- away from his adoptive father at age 13 and made his Th e old neighborhood was gone, and overnight its ing eight languages, Gaillard made up his own, which he way to San Francisco. When the war broke out, he was new inhabitants made it their own. And the neighbor- called Vout — hence the name of his club. Jack Kerouac the only qualifi ed black machinist in California. He tried hood they created, before the city destroyed it, was one of immortalized Gaillard in On the Road. He describes to get a job at the shipyards, but the union refused to hire the most jumping places on the planet. It was called the going to see him at “a little Frisco nightclub” where “great blacks. Sullivan got 50 white machinists to testify on his Fillmore, a.k.a. the Harlem of the West. Or just the ’Mo. eager crowds of young semi-intellectuals sat at his feet behalf, but it took the personal intervention of President Within months, the Fillmore was exploding with and listened to him on the guitar, piano and bongo drums. Roosevelt to get the union to hire him. During the war life — and its crown jewel was its jazz clubs. By a coin- … He does and says anything that comes into his head.” years he began opening bars and liquor stores in the Bay cidence as exuberant as an Art Blakey snare drum roll, Shockingly, Gaillard turned out to be a terrible busi- Area, including a liquor store just down the street from the Fillmore’s incarnation as a black neighborhood at the nessman, and Vout City quickly folded. Th e building’s Bop City at 1623 Post. It was the fi rst liquor store in San beginning of World War II exactly coincided with one of owner, Charles Sullivan, had to fi nd a new tenant. Sul- Francisco to make free deliveries. Branching into enter- America’s great artistic achievements, a rival to abstract livan approached John “Jimbo” Edwards, one of the fi rst tainment, he became the leading black music promoter on expressionism: the birth of modern jazz, in its fi rst incar- black car salesmen in San Francisco, who decided to open the West Coast. nation — bebop. a cafe called Jimbo’s Waffl e Shop in the former Vout space. Th e same year that Bop City closed, Sullivan played a Th e virtuoso improvisational style created by Bird and When local musicians discovered it had an unused back key role in the birth of the music that would permanently Diz and Monk and Max Roach and Bud Powell ushered room, they started using it for after-hours jam sessions. relegate jazz to the high-art, low-audience niche. Sullivan in a new age of intense, deeply personal and harmonically Jimbo changed its name to Bop City, word got around, loaned his dance license for the Fillmore Auditorium to advanced music. It took serious chops to play bop. To use a and soon every jazz musician who came to San Francisco a young promoter named Bill Graham. Th e Airplane, the phrase coined by Mark Schorer, the great English professor started heading there. Dead, Big Brother, Zappa and other rock bands played across the bay at U.C. Berkeley, it was “technique as dis- Th e cover photograph of a book about the ’Mo’s there in 1966 and 1967, kicking off a musical revolution covery.” And what they discovered, during a thousand jam glory days, Harlem of the West: Th e Fillmore Jazz Era, by as profound as the one that created jazz. sessions, was an American soundtrack of genius and joy. Elizabeth Pepin and Lewis Watts, captures an indelible Sullivan himself met an unhappy fate. In August 1966 For more than 15 years, the Fillmore was the hottest moment. A heartbreakingly young, innocent-looking he was found dead near Fifth and Bluxome Streets, shot jazz, blues and R&B scene outside New York. Everybody tenor player stands on the stage. He and fellow tenor man in the heart. Th e case was never solved. in the ’hood and plenty from outside dressed to the nines John Handy and trumpeter Frank Fischer are listening to TO PAGE 10 X
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