Les Guides De Haute Montagne Face Aux Effets Du Changement Climatique
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In Chamonix Ist Alles Ein Bisschen Höher Als Anderswo in Den Alpen
CHAMONIX DESTINATION 60 N Hohe 9 61 O O 9 9 Schule N Berge, Preise, Gefühle: In Chamonix ist alles ein bisschen höher als anderswo in den Alpen. Auf engem Raum hält das Mont-Blanc-Massiv alle Prüfungen bereit, denen sich ein Alpinist stellen kann. RALF!GANTZHORN erzählt, wie er nach Jahren des Büffelns das Alpin-Abitur doch noch absolviert hat. TEXT UND FOTOS: RALF GANTZHORN ALTE SCHULE Fritz Miller hat das große Orientierungs- Los gezogen und überprüft, ganz klassisch mit Kopie und Karte, Theorie und Praxis am Innominata-Grat. ALLMOUNTAIN DESTINATION Man kann es drehen und wenden wie tige Pracht final niederreißen. Tour man möchte, an Chamonix kommt man Ronde Nordwand – praktisch eisfrei. Zu- stieg zum Bivouac de la Fourche – nur nicht vorbei. Nirgendwo sonst auf dem noch durch Schutt möglich. „Schweizer- Planeten stehen so viele Berge, Spitzen, führe“ am Grand Capucin – der Berg- schrund wird sich kaum überwinden Türme und Nadeln von Weltruf, in lassen. Als Führerautor möchte man in keiner anderen Bergregion reiht sich auf so einem Moment verzweifeln. Seit fünf Jahren arbeite ich an einer Auswahl der so engem Raum eine Sehnsuchtstour an lohnendsten Touren im Südwesten des die nächste. Nicht zufällig also haben Alpenbogens. Und jetzt das! sich der Mont Blanc und seine Trabanten DIE!VERTE"!DAS!ALPIN-ABI zum weltweiten Mekka für Alpinisten Ein Jahr später sieht alles ganz anders aus. Der Winter 2017/2018 war endlich entwickelt. Chamonix quillt sommers mal wieder ein schneereicher. Die In- wie winters aus allen Nähten, ternetforen quollen über vor erfolgrei- chen Tourenberichten. Beste Verhält- Bergsteiger aus aller Welt bevölkern nisse am Walkerpfeiler; Innominata- Dorf und Granit oben drüber. -
031 Pointe Lachenal
031 Pointe Lachenal - Pointe Lachenal Traverse 150 032 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Négri 152 PREFACE 5 033 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Grisolle 154 INTRODUCTION 6 034 Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Mazeaud 156 GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION 10 035 Triangle du Tacul - Goulotte Chéré 158 TECHNICAL INFORMATION 12 036 Mont Blanc du Tacul - Normal Route 160 USEFUL CONTACTS 18 037 Mont Maudit - Tour of the East Ridge 162 ONE ORNY - TRIENT 19 038 Monte Bianco - Three monts Traverse 164 001 Gendarme d’Orny - Papa Paye Route 24 SEVEN ST. GERVAIS - LES CONTAMINES 169 002 Aiguille de la Cabane - Voie du Bon Accueil 28 039 Monte Bianco - Normal Route via the Aiguille du Gouter and the Bosses Ridge 176 003 Aiguille d’Orny - La Moquette 32 040 Aiguille de Bionnassay - Ridge Traverse 179 004 Aiguilles Dorées - Copt Couloir 36 041 Dômes de Miage - Mettrier Ridge to the East Dome 183 005 Aiguille Sans Nom - S Arête and half traverse of the Aiguilles to the E 41 042 Dômes de Miage - Traverse from East to West 186 006 Tête Blanche - N Face 46 043 Aiguille Nord de Trélatête - Normal Route of the NNW Face 189 TWO TOUR BASIN 49 EIGHT VAL VENY - SEIGNE 191 007 Aiguille du Tour - Normal Route to the S Peak 54 044 Aiguille des Glaciers - Normal Route 198 008 Aiguille du Tour - Couloir de la Table 58 045 Dôme de Neige des Glaciers - Lanchettes Ridge 201 009 Aiguille du Chardonnet - Forbes Arête 60 046 Petit Mont Blanc - Normal Route 204 010 Aiguille du Chardonnet - Éperon Migot 65 047 Aiguille Est di Trélatête - East Ridge 206 THREE -
Monte Bianco Inatuam Iam Ia Menteru Ridelarisqua Denis Perilli, Marco Tonello, G.A
1 collana rock&ice 1 RINGRAZIAMENTI Consulic astrum sentiem, ut quis cae incul vivehent. Gli autori ringraziano tutti gli amici che direttamente o indirettamente hanno contribuito alla realizzazione Intra nius sultum restuss inprora di questa guida, sia con l’accompagnamento in alcune serei peredem Romandit aur, fac fors salite che fornendo alcune fotografie. Si ringraziano spiem cons nonductatum tabus audam in particolare, in ordine alfabetico: G.A. Gino Battisti, Fulvio Caldini, Alessandra Cammilli, Marco Di Nonno, monte bianco inatuam iam ia menteru ridelarisqua Denis Perilli, Marco Tonello, G.A. Marco Zambelli Franz, omnique ribusquost grat iam nos G.A. Giacomo Cardini. Un ringraziamento speciale Marco Romelli estilne scidemn equamdiem in Itam va agli amici che hanno condiviso tanto le facili pas- classico & plaisir seggiate quanto le più difficoltose scalate, agli amici coneque es cam inatu il condi, quam che non ci sono più, alle pazienti mogli e compagne, liciturbi simunt, nonsuam quem all’editore Francesco Cappellari che ha reso possibile questa guida e a tutti gli Alpini e soldati di un tempo Marco Romelli senteme cauctus rem corus, nes, se che tanti sentieri e arditi percorsi su queste cime han- nonsus? quo Cas publiniam pris octum no tracciato. L’ultimo ringraziamento va alle Montagne, maestre e te non talius, nirmihinte inat, que nos compagne di vita, di sogni e di libertà... bon silii scioncla omne publis. Abem none inam halinticae civas forum Sandro Caldini inatiferi se potes sendum am dente, Roberto Ciri plaisir & classico -
3-D Reconstruction of a Collapsed Rock Pillar from Web-Retrieved Images and Terrestrial Lidar Data – the 2005 Event of the West Face of the Drus (Mont Blanc Massif)
Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 17, 1207–1220, 2017 https://doi.org/10.5194/nhess-17-1207-2017 © Author(s) 2017. This work is distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License. Brief communication: 3-D reconstruction of a collapsed rock pillar from Web-retrieved images and terrestrial lidar data – the 2005 event of the west face of the Drus (Mont Blanc massif) Antoine Guerin1, Antonio Abellán2, Battista Matasci3, Michel Jaboyedoff1, Marc-Henri Derron1, and Ludovic Ravanel4 1Risk Analysis Group, Institute of Earth Sciences, University of Lausanne, Lausanne, Switzerland 2Scott Polar Research Institute, University of Cambridge, Cambridge, UK 3Bureau d’Etudes Géologiques SA, Aproz, Switzerland 4EDYTEM, University Savoie Mont Blanc – CNRS, Le Bourget du Lac, France Correspondence to: Antoine Guerin ([email protected]) Received: 27 September 2016 – Discussion started: 7 October 2016 Revised: 6 June 2017 – Accepted: 12 June 2017 – Published: 18 July 2017 Abstract. In June 2005, a series of major rockfall events 1 Introduction completely wiped out the Bonatti Pillar located in the leg- endary Drus west face (Mont Blanc massif, France). Ter- The Drus (3754 m a.s.l.) is a mountain with emblematic sum- restrial lidar scans of the west face were acquired after this mits of the Chamonix valley situated in the Mont Blanc mas- event, but no pre-event point cloud is available. Thus, in or- sif (France). Since the middle of last century, the Petit Dru der to reconstruct the volume and the shape of the collapsed west face (1000 m high, 3730 m a.s.l.) has been affected by blocks, a 3-D model has been built using photogrammetry intense erosion which has significantly modified the mor- (structure-from-motion (SfM) algorithms) based on 30 pic- phology of this peak (Ravanel and Deline, 2006, 2008; Fort et tures collected on the Web. -
Water/Eau Air
TERRITOIRES D’AVENTURES TERRITOIRES D’AVENTURES TERRITOIRES D’AVENTURES Roches Glaces Rock& Ice Water/Eau Air Aventure ...by Evolution 2 Aériennes ...by Evolution 2 Alpinisme, Randonnées Glaciaire, Alpinism, Glacier Hikes, Rafting, Hydrospeed, Rafting, Hydrospeed, Parapente, Vols Panoramiques Parapente, Helicopter flights, Escalade... Rock Climbing… Canyoning, Canoraft... Canyoning, Canoraft... Hélicoptère, Montgolfière… Hot Air Balloon… Engagements Guides • Mont-blanc Private Guides • Mont-blanc Découvrez l’aventure en eaux vives au fil des Enjoy adventures on the most beautiful rivers Découvrez le pays du Mont Blanc Get a bird’s eye view of the valley… Journées découvertes • Stages d’alpinisme… Discovery days • Via Ferrata… plus belles rivières du pays du Mont-blanc. of Mont-blanc. en prenant de la hauteur… Booking is so easy! Booking is so easy! Booking is so easy! Points de vente Evolution 2 Points de vente Evolution 2 Points de vente Evolution 2 Tél. : 04 50 55 90 22 / e-mail: [email protected] Tél. : 04 50 55 90 22 / e-mail: [email protected] Tél. : 04 50 55 90 22 / e-mail: [email protected] Air Water/Eau Roches Glaces Rock& Ice PARAPENTE PARAGLIDING EAUX VIVES WATER RANDONNÉES GLACIAIRE HIKES ON GLACIER Réalisez le plus vieux rêve de l’Homme : A “must do” in Chamonix ! You will fly in RAFTING RAFTING DÉCOUVERTE & ACTION DISCOVERY & ACTION volez et profitez d’un panorama exceptionnel sur tandem with one of our qualified parapente pilots Sensations, émotions, frissons… mais aussi et Discovery rafting as a family or group on an easy Mer de Glace, Glacier d’Argentière, Vallée blanche. surtout rigolade, baignade, un bon moment dont on river or take the wildest rapids in the alps! Mer de Glace, Glacier d’Argentière, Vallée blanche. -
Pobierz Fragment – Plik
Hilary Sharp Przewodnik dla aktywnych Wydawnictwo Sklepu Podróżnika 2018 SPIS TREŚCI Legenda do map ................................................................................. 8 Mapki przeglądowe opisanych tras ...................................................... 9 Plan Chamonix .................................................................................... 12 WSTĘP ............................................................................................. 15 Informacje o regionie .......................................................................... 17 Lodowce ............................................................................................. 19 Fauna i flora ........................................................................................ 19 Jak się to wszystko zaczęło .................................................................. 25 Górskie przygody ................................................................................ 27 Pozostałe aktywności........................................................................... 33 Kiedy się wybrać .................................................................................. 36 Jak się tu dostać i poruszać po okolicy ................................................. 37 Zakwaterowanie ................................................................................. 38 Informacja turystyczna ........................................................................ 40 Język ................................................................................................. -
Revue De Géographie Alpine, 107-4 | 2019 Mountain Guides Facing the Effects of Climate Change
Journal of Alpine Research | Revue de géographie alpine 107-4 | 2019 Varia 2019 Mountain guides facing the effects of climate change. What perceptions and adaptation strategies at the foot of Mont Blanc? Emmanuel Salim, Jacques Mourey, Ludovic Ravanel, Pietro Picco and Christophe Gauchon Electronic version URL: https://journals.openedition.org/rga/5865 DOI: 10.4000/rga.5865 ISSN: 1760-7426 Publisher: Association pour la diffusion de la recherche alpine, UGA Éditions/Université Grenoble Alpes Electronic reference Emmanuel Salim, Jacques Mourey, Ludovic Ravanel, Pietro Picco and Christophe Gauchon, “Mountain guides facing the effects of climate change. What perceptions and adaptation strategies at the foot of Mont Blanc?”, Journal of Alpine Research | Revue de géographie alpine [Online], 107-4 | 2019, Online since 26 August 2019, connection on 21 September 2021. URL: http://journals.openedition.org/rga/5865 ; DOI: https://doi.org/10.4000/rga.5865 This text was automatically generated on 21 September 2021. La Revue de Géographie Alpine est mise à disposition selon les termes de la licence Creative Commons Attribution - Pas d'Utilisation Commerciale - Pas de Modification 4.0 International. Mountain guides facing the effects of climate change. What perceptions and ad... 1 Mountain guides facing the effects of climate change. What perceptions and adaptation strategies at the foot of Mont Blanc? Emmanuel Salim, Jacques Mourey, Ludovic Ravanel, Pietro Picco and Christophe Gauchon Acknowledgements The authors would like to thank A. Barberis for his support in translating the survey into Italian. They also thank E. Motta and J.-P. Fosson (Fondation Montagne sûre) for their attentive proofreading of the manuscript. -
20 Years 2020 Trip Dossier | 3 Countries Summits £1199
Icicle Mountaineering Ltd | 11a Church Street Windermere | Lake District | LA23 1AQ | UK Tel +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 | [email protected] Website: www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Online: shop.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk 2020 trip dossier | 3 Countries Summits £1199 Website link | http://www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk/alpine%2Bsummits.html Key features • Climb your first peak, in a Chamonix based climbing week • 5 days guiding (Monday - Friday), and Chamonix B&B accommodation (Sunday - Saturday) • NO previous experience is required, as you are taught everything during the course • Led by top qualified guides (IFMGA), 1:3 ratio maximum. • All technical equipment (e.g. B3 boots, crampons, ice axe etc.) can be hired from Icicle • 2020 dates; 26 Jul - 1 Aug, 16 - 22 Aug. Icicle® is the registered trademark of Icicle Mountaineering UK registered company 413 6635. VAT 770 137 933 20 years established in 2000 ‘inspirational mountain adventure holidays’ Icicle Mountaineering Ltd | 11a Church Street Windermere | Lake District | LA23 1AQ | UK Tel +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 | [email protected] Website: www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Online: shop.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Course overview § This is a week of summit bagging, designed for those who want to progress from an Alpine Intro style course, with more nights in mountain huts, and a full week of Alpine mountaineering routes on glaciated terrain. The course is based in Chamonix, and you have a couple of two-day mini expeditions with nights in mountain huts, and an extra day for acclimatisation / flexibility / training / contingency, as required. § During the week, you frequently get the opportunity to climb in three different Alpine countries, as a couple of the routes in the itinerary straddle the borders. -
Alpine Courses Instruction Booklet
Alpine Courses Instruction Booklet by Sarah Hodgson & Kingsley Jones Photo: climbing Cascade Lillaz, Val de Cogne Booklet copyright 2014, www.icicle.co.uk 2: Basic Alpine Ropework – Knots This section covers the key knots that you will require in the Alps. You only need to know the knots pictured below, and there is an explanation of the situations in which you would use each one. In all the diagrams the rope is either a half or full rope (8-11mm), and the thinner ropes (bottom three diagrams) are prussic cord which is 7mm in diameter. Figure of 8 Doubled Figure 8 Bowline This diagram is just so that you This is the preferred way to tie on, A quick method of tying on, but it can ensure that you can make the as it is essentially two opposing is not as easy to check as a initial figure of 8 to start tying on, figure of 8 knots tightening Double Figure of 8. It must be before retracing the shape with against each other. A stopper used with a stopper knot, and it is the loose end of rope. knot on the end is optional. easy to undo after a fall. Stopper Knot Clove Hitch Italian / Munter This knot is to be used if you have For locking off a rope at a belay This hitch is clipped onto a tied on with a bowline, or two can stance, this knot is the best karabiner, and is used to either be used against each other to method. It is very adjustable, so lower off or belay. -
Mont Blanc Summit Course 2014 Courses Detailed Itinerary & Notes
Icicle Mountaineering, Ski & Adventure www.icicle.co.uk 0845 058 98 78 Copyright 2014 © by Icicle Mountaineering Mont Blanc Summit Course 2014 courses detailed itinerary & notes Photo: Jo and Jonathan on the summit of Mont Blanc 4810m, via the Gouter route So you want to climb Mont Blanc? It is a dream, but not for dreamers… There is a lot of information around on the internet, and in books and magazines, about climbing Mont Blanc. Some articles say it is ‘nothing more than a hard walk’ while others say it is ‘extreme altitude climbing’. So what is the truth? Well the honest answer is that we have been running Mont Blanc courses for a decade, and every single client is different, and would have answered the question differently. Some have arrived with no experience, yet had great balance and been incredibly fit, and have run up the mountain. Others have arrived with loads of experience and struggled. The answer must lie somewhere in the middle; altitude affects everyone in different ways, you are not going to be 100% acclimatized in one week, the weather and conditions must play their role, and then there are the two greatest variables of fitness and ability on steep ground with crampons. Some people are fast learners, others need more time. Mont Blanc is not an ideal first 4000m peak for anyone, but if everything goes in your favor, it is often a possible summit. So yes, it is a realistic goal, but be realistic in your preparation, and accept that nothing in the mountains is guaranteed. -
Journal of Alpine Research | Revue De Géographie Alpine , Varia 2019 Les Guides De Haute Montagne Face Aux Effets Du Changement Climatique
Journal of Alpine Research | Revue de géographie alpine Varia 2019 Les guides de haute montagne face aux effets du changement climatique. Quelles perceptions et stratégies d’adaptation au pied du Mont Blanc ? Emmanuel Salim, Jacques Mourey, Ludovic Ravanel, Pietro Picco et Christophe Gauchon Édition électronique URL : http://journals.openedition.org/rga/5842 ISSN : 1760-7426 Éditeur Association pour la diffusion de la recherche alpine Référence électronique Emmanuel Salim, Jacques Mourey, Ludovic Ravanel, Pietro Picco et Christophe Gauchon, « Les guides de haute montagne face aux effets du changement climatique. Quelles perceptions et stratégies d’adaptation au pied du Mont Blanc ? », Journal of Alpine Research | Revue de géographie alpine [En ligne], Varia 2019, mis en ligne le 26 août 2019, consulté le 28 août 2019. URL : http:// journals.openedition.org/rga/5842 Ce document a été généré automatiquement le 28 août 2019. La Revue de Géographie Alpine est mise à disposition selon les termes de la licence Creative Commons Attribution - Pas d'Utilisation Commerciale - Pas de Modification 4.0 International. Les guides de haute montagne face aux effets du changement climatique. Quelle... 1 Les guides de haute montagne face aux effets du changement climatique. Quelles perceptions et stratégies d’adaptation au pied du Mont Blanc ? Emmanuel Salim, Jacques Mourey, Ludovic Ravanel, Pietro Picco et Christophe Gauchon Remerciements Les auteurs remercient A. Barberis pour son concours à l’occasion de la traduction en italien du formulaire d’enquête. Ils remercient également E. Motta et J.-P. Fosson (Fondation Montagne sûre) pour leur relecture attentive du manuscrit. Cette étude s’inscrit dans le cadre du projet EU ALCOTRA AdaPT Mont Blanc (Adaptation de la planification territoriale aux changements climatiques dans l'espace Mont Blanc) financé par le programme Interreg V-A Italie-France 2014-2020. -
Chamonix Advanced Mountaineering Course
CHAMONIX ADVANCED MOUNTAINEERING COURSE 2022 COURSE NOTES CHAMONIX ADVANCED MOUNTAINEERING COURSE NOTES 2022 COURSE DETAILS Dates: CAMC 1: June 19–25 CAMC 2: July 17–23 CAMC 3: August 14–20 Duration: 5 days Departure: ex Chamonix, France Price: €3,500 for 1:1 guide to climber ratio €2,100 for 1:2 guide to climber ratio Traversing Aiguilles d’Entrèves. Photo: Olivier Baron Successful mountaineering at the top end is as much about judgment as it is about technical prowess. Our Chamonix Advanced Mountaineering course allows you to spend time with the specialists in the mountain environment and you will be able to accelerate your own pathway to bigger and better objectives. This course will take you beyond the intermediate level While building your independence and confidence we and aims to have you leading safely on technical alpine will introduce you to new areas and mountains and will terrain. The routes will typically be multi-pitch routes change the venue to achieve this if needed. from PD to D in difficulty, but the grade and routes will depend on the level of your experience and confidence. There will be an emphasis on developing independence and self-sufficiency in the mountains. We will focus on SKILLS COVERED safe decision making as much as technical skills. • Refreshing rope work and basic skills Throughout the course, you will be coached by our • Independent risk assessment excellent mountain guides with many years’ experience, • Making steep ground safe who will enable you to make the next major • Problem-solving in mountains breakthrough in your mountaineering.