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Coastal Evolution of Soft Cliff Coasts: Headland Formation and Evolution on the Southwest Isle of Wight

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Coastal Evolution of Soft Cliff Coasts: Headland Formation and Evolution on the Southwest Isle of Wight University of Southampton Research Repository ePrints Soton Copyright © and Moral Rights for this thesis are retained by the author and/or other copyright owners. A copy can be downloaded for personal non-commercial research or study, without prior permission or charge. This thesis cannot be reproduced or quoted extensively from without first obtaining permission in writing from the copyright holder/s. The content must not be changed in any way or sold commercially in any format or medium without the formal permission of the copyright holders. When referring to this work, full bibliographic details including the author, title, awarding institution and date of the thesis must be given e.g. AUTHOR (year of submission) "Full thesis title", University of Southampton, name of the University School or Department, PhD Thesis, pagination http://eprints.soton.ac.uk UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHAMPTON FACULTY OF ENGINNERING AND THE ENVIRONMENT Energy and Climate Change Volume 1 of 1 Coastal Evolution of Soft Cliff Coasts: Headland Formation and Evolution on the Southwest Isle of Wight by Caroline Stuiver Thesis for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy October 2013 UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHAMPTON ABSTRACT FACULTY OF ENGINEERING AND THE ENVIRONMENT Coastal Geomorphology Thesis for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy COASTAL EVOLUTION OF SOFT CLIFF COASTS: HEADLAND FORMATION AND EVOLUTION ON THE SOUTHWEST ISLE OF WIGHT Caroline Shirley Stuiver The standard model of headland formation assumes a coastline with discordant geology, where the less resistant rock is eroded at a higher rate than the more resistant geology. The indentation of the coastline will continue to increase until variations in wave energy due to refraction balance with the variation in rock strength and beach volume. On soft cliff coasts, where no systematic variations in cliff lithology or strength exist subtle headlands are still seen. Several examples of this can be seen on the southwest coast of the Isle of Wight, a coastline of complex interbedded soft rock lithology. Its relatively straight planform is punctuated by three established and one potentially emerging headland. All of these headlands are fronted by locally elevated intertidal shore platforms. It was hypothesised that these platform potentially act in three ways. Firstly by reducing the amount of wave energy reaching the cliff base, thus reducing local cliff recession rates. The second may counteract the first by increasing the wave energy directed at the cliff base due to refraction, the balance between these two effects will determine if a headland will grow, be maintained or decline. Thirdly by blocking longshore transport of beach sediment, building a protective beach up-drift, while starving the downdrift coast of sediment, potentially accelerating erosion in that area. To test these three possible mechanisms, investigation into the geological and geotechnical properties of the cliff and platform, beach volumes and sediment budget, wave refraction, and historical recession rates was undertaken. The elevation of the shore platform is controlled by their resistance to erosion, which is related to aspects of their lithology and structural geology. These include clay content, mass properties, dip and strike in relation to the orientation of the coastline and the strength of the surrounding beds. Although two of the established headlands, Hanover and Atherfield Points act as a partial barrier to sediment transport the sediment volumes along the coastline were insufficient to significantly influence recession rates. The results of the sediment budget indicate that the low sediment volumes observed are likely to have been consistent over time due to the low inputs of beach grade sediment. Wave refraction modelling revealed that concentration of wave energy occurs towards the established headlands of Hanover and Atherfield Points this is reflected in the higher than average recession rates seen at these headlands. It is concluded that the major control of the formation and evolution of headlands on the southwest coast is the geological and geotechnical properties of the intertidal platforms. Once established these headlands exist in a state of dynamic equilibrium controlled by the persistence of the platform forming beds and the balance between refraction and attenuation of wave energy across the platform surface. These results may have widespread implications on soft cliffed sediment-starved coasts where similar processes are dominant. Contents ABSTRACT ............................................................................................................................... i Contents ..................................................................................................................................... i List of Tables ........................................................................................................................... v List of Figures ...................................................................................................................... vii List of accompanying materials ................................................................................... xxi DECLARATION OF AUTHORSHIP ...................................................................... xxiii Acknowledgements ........................................................................................................... xxv Definitions and Abbreviations .................................................................................. xxvii 1. Introduction .................................................................................................................. 1 1.1 Background ......................................................................................... 1 1.2 Study Area .......................................................................................... 2 1.3 Research Aims and Objectives .............................................................. 3 1.3.1 Aims ............................................................................................ 4 1.3.2 Objectives ..................................................................................... 4 1.4 Thesis Outline ..................................................................................... 5 2. Controls on Soft Rock Cliff Recession ................................................................. 7 2.1 Cross-shore Interactions ...................................................................... 8 2.1.1 Shore Platform vs. Cliff Recession .................................................. 8 2.1.2 Shore Platform vs. Beach and Surficial Sediment ............................ 9 2.1.3 Beach Size vs. Cliff Recession ....................................................... 10 2.1.4 Conceptual Model of Cross-Shore Interactions ............................... 12 2.2 Longshore Interactions ...................................................................... 14 2.2.1 Wave Transformations and Sediment Transport ............................ 14 2.2.2 Beach Levels, Littoral Drift Barriers ............................................ 16 2.2.3 Lithology .................................................................................... 17 2.3 Headland Formation .......................................................................... 19 2.4 Headland Evolution ........................................................................... 21 2.5 Summary .......................................................................................... 23 3. Methods ....................................................................................................................... 25 3.1 Research Design and Data Overview ................................................... 25 3.1.1 Historic Maps ............................................................................. 27 3.1.2 Aerial Photographs ...................................................................... 30 3.1.3 LiDAR ........................................................................................ 32 3.1.4 Swath Bathymetry ...................................................................... 32 i 3.1.5 Admiralty Charts ........................................................................ 32 3.1.6 Beach Profiles ............................................................................. 32 3.2 Historical Shoreline Analysis .............................................................. 33 3.2.1 Shoreline Analysis pre-1866 ......................................................... 33 3.2.2 Shoreline Analysis post 1866 ........................................................ 34 3.2.3 Analysis of Significance ................................................................ 36 3.3 Geological and Geotechnical Investigation ........................................... 36 3.3.1 Geological Cliff Sections ............................................................... 37 3.3.2 Cliff Behavioural Units ................................................................ 40 3.3.3 Geotechnical Assessment ............................................................. 40 3.4 Wave Refraction Analysis ................................................................... 43 3.4.1 Model Inputs ............................................................................... 44 3.4.2 Model outputs ............................................................................. 47 3.5 Beach and Platform Morphology and Sedimentology ............................. 48 3.5.1 Sediment Sampling
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