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Flores and Komodo: Two Islands of Northern Nusa Tenggara ATTILA SIMAY, TAMAS ZALAI & ZOLTAN ECSEDI

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Flores and Komodo: Two Islands of Northern Nusa Tenggara ATTILA SIMAY, TAMAS ZALAI & ZOLTAN ECSEDI BirdingASIA 11 (2009): 59–63 59 BIRDING HOTSPOT Flores and Komodo: two islands of Northern Nusa Tenggara ATTILA SIMAY, TAMAS ZALAI & ZOLTAN ECSEDI Introduction quality woodlands outside national park areas. The Lesser Sunda Islands (Nusa Tenggara) stretch Komodo is famous worldwide, first because the for some 1,800 km eastwards from Lombok to Timor entire island is a well-run national park, and second and beyond in the region of Wallacea (Coates & it is home to the Komodo Dragon Varanus Bishop 1997). They include the “dry tropics” of komodoensis, the largest lizard in the world. Little Indonesia, and indeed the arid nature of islands such information has been published about Flores and as Sumba, parts of Flores, Komodo and Timor Komodo in recent years (Jepson 1997, Bostock & contrast sharply with the lush habitats of the rest of Sujanika 1993, Verhoeye & Holmes 1999) and we the Indonesian archipelago. Wallacea is, from a hope our notes will be of assistance to visiting biogeographical point of view, a transitional zone birdwatchers. between Asia and Australasia. This duality is also characteristic of its birdlife, since families of Asia as Logistics well as Australia can be found here. Its western border Travelling to and between remote and practically is designated by Wallace’s line, which lies between tourist-free islands of Indonesia has proved difficult the islands of Bali and Lombok, and its eastern for birdwatchers, owing to frequent unexpected boundary is marked by the Tanimbar islands. Nusa airline schedule changes, with many flights Tenggara comprises four biogeographical regions departing a day earlier or several days later than (Stattersfield et al. 1998). Of these, Northern Nusa advertised! Our group, however, did not have any Tenggara includes the islands of Lombok, Sumbawa, serious problems, maybe because the travel Komodo, Flores and Alor. arrangements were made by a local travel agent, The threat of destruction to natural habitats is who notified us of all flight changes and provided a serious problem in Indonesia and on many islands a car and a driver as well as a guide, on request. forested habitats are now restricted to areas Booking flights and renting a vehicle yourself is designated as national parks. Unfortunately this is only recommended if you have plenty of time on generally true in the Lesser Sundas and only tiny your hands. Roads on the islands are narrow and forests confined to protected areas which are not meandering and very bad in the hills, so that travel always well managed have survived. In Flores the is very slow. We suggest renting cars with drivers, situation is somewhat better, and there are good unless you speak the local language, since roads Plate 1. Komodo Dragon Varanus komodoensis, Komodo, August 2007. ALL PLATES: ANDRÁS MAZULA 60 Flores and Komodo: two islands of Northern Nusa Tenggara are badly signposted, and if you get lost, locals are usually unable to help you, however hard they may try. The local population is exceptionally friendly and we had no problems throughout the trip. Meals are excellent; we always tried the local specialities without any problems. Bottled water is widely available in the villages, but beer is not available everywhere. A trip to the Lesser Sundas following the “classic” route should be scheduled as follows: Sumba requires three days, whilst it is worth devoting eight days to Flores, two of which can be spent visiting Komodo. Those who want to include Timor should allow a further six days. The time periods given above are more than enough to find the important bird species, but allow for the unreliable domestic air service mentioned above. You must be ready to reschedule the itinerary at any time throughout the journey. Plate 2. Wallace’s Scops Owl Otus silvicola, Kisol, Flores, August Flores specialities 2007. The birdlife of Flores is exceptionally rich: 27 Lesser Sundas endemics may be seen, five of which are it is known to occur only on Flores and Sumba. not found elsewhere—Flores Lorikeet Trichoglossus Finally, two further Lesser Sundas endemics, weberi, Wallace’s Hanging Parrot Loriculus pusillus, Chestnut-backed Thrush Zoothera dohertyi and Flores Scops Owl Otus alfredi, Flores Crow Corvus Five-coloured Munia Lonchura quinticolor, may be florensis and Flores Monarch Monarcha seen on Flores. sacerdotum. Fourteen endemic species are found in the western Lesser Sundas, of which ten are Birdwatching sites found on Flores and Sumbawa only, and four are If possible, book a flight to Labuhanbajo, the additionally shared with Lombok (marked with an westernmost settlement in Flores, since this town asterisk): Flores Hawk Eagle Spizaetus floris*, is the best starting point to explore the island and Flores Green Pigeon Treron floris*, Wallace’s Scops you can also hire a boat to Komodo. Our plane Owl Otus silvicola, White-rumped Kingfisher landed in Ende, so we spent nearly a day driving Caridonax fulgidus*, Flores Minivet Pericrocotus west to reach the first birding site. lansbergei, Russet-capped Tesia Tesia everetti, Species such as Yellow-spectacled White-eye, Brown-capped Fantail Rhipidura diluta, Bare- Black-fronted Flowerpecker and Flame-breasted throated Whistler Pachycephala orpheus, Scaly- Sunbird are widespread and common in suitable crowned Honeyeater Lichmera lombokia*, Golden- habitat, whilst Brown-capped Fantail and Scaly- rumped Flowerpecker Dicaeum annae, Black- crowned Honeyeater are common in upland areas. fronted Flowerpecker Dicaeum igniferum, Yellow- Timor Leaf Warbler is also common in suitable browed White-eye Lophozosterops superciliaris, habitat and well worth seeking out as the local race Crested White-eye Lophozosterops dohertyi and may acquire full species status. The same Thick-billed White-eye Heleia crassirostris. Flores consideration applies to Russet-backed Jungle and Timor share two endemics, of which Timor Flycatcher, which is fairly common in the forests Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus presbytes is found only near Poko Ranaka and may be treated as a full on these two islands, while Flame-breasted Sunbird species alongside the Sumba race in the future. Nectarinia solaris can also be seen on Sumbawa and Wetar. Three endemics are found on Sumba Kisol: Most birdwatchers stay at the local Catholic as well as on Flores and Sumbawa: Sumba Seminary, which is worth booking in advance. If it Cicadabird Coracina dohertyi, Russet-backed Jungle is fully booked, the hotel in Mborang the next Flycatcher Rhinomyias oscillans and Yellow- village is just as good. The beginning of the trail spectacled White-eye Zosterops wallacei. Mees’s may be reached by car from the accommodation. Nightjar Caprimulus meesi is a new distinct species, The trail itself runs along a short part of the eastern previously part of the widespread Large-tailed side of Gunung Pacandeki. Pedestrian traffic is Nightjar C. macrurus complex. The taxonomy is significant, but locals are friendly towards and currently still under review by BirdLife; if accepted patient with birdwatchers. BirdingASIA 11 (2009) 61 White-rumped Kingfisher is common along the trail and Elegant Pitta Pitta elegans may be seen in the undergrowth. Flocks of Flores Minivet, not uncommon in all wooded habitats, and the Endangered Flores Crow forage in the canopy. This is the best site for the latter and its strange song, similar to a crying human baby, has to be heard to be believed. The flocks of 10–15 birds are hard to see in the canopy. Along the first 100 m of the path it is worth looking for Chestnut-capped Thrush Zosterops interpres, although it is exceptionally difficult to get good views. You have a good chance to see Thick-billed White-eye here, although it is a species that is not easy to see. Two difficult Plate 3. Ruteng, Flores, August 2007. specialities of the island may be seen here: the Flores Green Pigeon can be chanced upon anywhere in the forests but is easier to hear than see (it is commoner in the east of Flores and on the island of Lomblen that lies between Flores and Alor), and a good place to observe the Endangered Flores Hawk Eagle soaring is from a fork in the main trail: bear right towards Gunung Pacandeki and find a clearing, from where you have a clear view of the hill. A few hours’ wait should be enough to reap the reward. Less than 100 pairs are thought to survive in the wild (see p.42). Night birding is also rewarding, since you can hope to find not only Mees’s Nightjar and Moluccan Scops Owl Otus magicus, but also Wallace’s Scops Owl. Located by its barking call it is possible to find, with persistence, at the forest edge nearest the village. Around Ruteng: There are no problems getting accommodation and meals in Ruteng. From here it is about an hour by car to the birding sites. Danau Ranamese is the most important site and on the shore of the small montane lake stands what was once a “research station” which provided accommodation; now most of the buildings are abandoned and derelict. Start birdwatching at the buildings and walk back along the road to Ruteng; Plate 4, White-rumped Kingfisher Caridonax fulgidus, Ruteng, specialities are Chestnut-backed Thrush which is Flores, August 2007. unusually confiding for a Zoothera species and Plate 5. Poco Ranaca, Ruteng, Flores August 2007. Russet-capped Tesia: this tiny bird is common and frequently heard in many habitats, but stays concealed close to the ground. Elegant Pittas are heard at many places and White-rumped Kingfishers hunt from perches on the overhead wires at dusk. It is easy to overlook the relatively rare Golden-rumped Flowerpecker, but the Bare- throated Whistler with its beautiful, far-carrying song, is impossible to miss. This is also the place to look for small flocks of the Yellow-browed White- eye and also the Crested White-eye, but the real attraction is the Flores Scops Owl.
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