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A Year in Europe ayear IN Europe 'By WALTER W. MOORE, D. D., LL. D. President of Union Theological Seminary in Virginia THIRD EDITION RICHMOND, VIRGINIA QIIlP Pr?Bbgtmmt Qlommitt^f of ^ubltratton 1905 3 q^^ I NOV Copyrighted BY WALTER W. MOORE, 1904. Printed by Whittet & Shepperson, Richmond, Va. A YEAR IN EUROPE. TO /ID^ Xlraveling Companions This Book is Dedicated as a memento OF HAPPY DAYS IN THE OlD WoRI.D. FOREWORD. The only excuse I have to offer for the publication of these desultory and chatty letters in this more per- manent form is that a number of my friends have requested it. Many of the letters have already ap- peared in the columns of The Children's Friend, for which they were originally written, at the instance of the Presbyterian Committee of Publication ; but I have included in the volume several letters which were written for other periodicals, and a considerable num- ber which have not been published anywhere till now. Some of them were written hastily, and, as it were, on the wing, others with more deliberation and care. Some were intended for young readers, others for older people. This will account for the differences of style and subject matter which will strike every one, and which will be particularly noticeable when the letters are read consecutively. In some cases I have drawn the materials, in part, from other sources besides my own observations, the main object at times being not originality, but accuracy and fullness of information. In such cases I have endeavored to make full acknowledgment of my in- debtedness to other writers. As most of the letters were written for a denomi- national paper, they naturally contain a good many vi FOREWORD. references to notable events in the history of the Pres- byterian Church, and to some of the differences be- tween that church and others in matters of doctrine, poHty and forms of worship. But I trust that in no case have I felt or expressed a spirit of uncharitable sectarianism. If any reader should receive the impres- sion that I have done so in one or two instances, I request him to suspend judgment till he has read all the references to such matters contained in the letters. It will then be seen that if I have had occasion to make some strictures upon the Anglican and Roman Catholic Churches, I have not hesitated to make them upon my own church also, when I have observed, in her worship or work, things which seemed to argue that she was untrue in any measure to her principles ; and that if I have criticised the Anglo-Catholic and Roman Catholic systems as erroneous, I have recognized thankfully the great evangelical truths embedded in the heart of Anglican, and even Romish theology, though so sadly overlaid, and have rejoiced to pay my tribute of praise to the saintly characters that have been developed within those bodies in spite of their errors. Richmond, Va,, June i, 1904. — CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. A Cold Summer Voyage. A Pleasant Memory.—A Depressing Start.—Discomforts at Sea.—Life on a German Steamship.—The Unification of the World.— All's Well that Ends Well.— Arrival at Southampton, 9 CHAPTER n. A Visit to the Town of Dr. Isaac Watts. A Sheltered Harbor with Double Tides.—Historical Interest of Southampton : Canute, William the Conqueror, Wil- liam Rufus, Richard Lion Heart, the Pilgrim Fathers. The Chief Distinction of the Town.—Statue of Dr. Watts.—Sketch of the great hymn writer, i6 CHAPTER HI. Salisbury, Sarum, and Stonehenge. A Fascinating Cathedral Town.—Rural Scenery in Southern England.—Impressiveness of Stonehenge.—Other Things of Interest About Salisbury. — What the Bishop Said About the Presbyterian Form of the Early Church, 21 CHAPTER IV. Winchester Worthies : Alfred the Great, Izaak Walton, Thomas Ken. Memorials of Kings Good and Bad.—Memorial of the Gentle Fisherman. — Wit in Winchester College. — A Lovely Churchman.—Ken's Defiance of James II., 28 — viii CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. The Ugliness and the Charm of London. A Vast and Dingy Metropolis.—The -^Esthetic Value of Soot.—Brick versus Stone.—Scotch Cities Stately, but Gloomy.—Brightness of Paris.—Immensity and Multi- tude.—The Body is More than Raiment, 34 CHAPTER VI. The English View of the Fourth of July. Ambassador Choate's Reception. — Increasing Friendliness Between America and England.—How the English Now View the American Revolution.—A Fair Statement of the Question and the Conflict.—What England Learned from Fighting Against Her Own Principles.—The Monu- ment of Washington in St. Paul's Cathedral.—The Pos- sible Union of Canada and the United States, ^l CHAPTER VII. How the English Regard the Americans. Former Prejudices Passing Away.—The English Admit that America Holds the Future.—English Candor and Eng- lish Inconsistency. — A Sectarian Measure in Parlia- ment.—What Scotchmen Think of the Education Bill. Passive Resistance of the Nonconformists, 49 CHAPTER VIII. The British Republic and the House of Commons. The Real Ruler of the British Empire.—The House of Par- liament.—Getting into the Lower House.—The Debate and the Debaters.—Harcourt, Bryce, Campbell-Banner- man, Lloyd-George, John Dillon, Arthur Balfour.—The Incongruity of a Presbyterian Prime Minister.—English and American Oratory, 55 — CONTENTS. IX CHAPTER IX. Cambridge and her Schools. The Cathedral Route.—The Two University Towns.—Cam- bridge More Progressive than Oxford.—The Presby- terian Element.—The Two Most Learned Women in the World. — Westminster College. — The Same Difficulties About Candidates for the Ministry, 6 j CHAPTER X. From England to Scotland — The Eastern Route. The Land of the Mountain and the Flood.—Melrose, Abbots- ford, and Dryburgh.—The Wizard of the North.—Edin- burgh.—Temporary Residence in Auld Reekie.—Public Worship in Scotland. — Organ, Choir, and Congrega- tion.—Bibles in the Churches, 6S CHAPTER XL Some English and Scotch Preachers. Dean Farrar in Westminster Abbey.—Mr. Haweis and Dr. Wace.—Spurgeon, Parker, and Hughes.—Moravian Mis- sion House.—General Booth.— Scottish Mind and Scot- tish Heart.—Dr. Marcus Dods.—Dr. George Matheson. Dr. Whyte and Mr. Black.—Interview with Professor Sayce.—The Inevitable Subject, 75 CHAPTER XII. Echoes of a Spicy Book on Scotland. A Unique Prayer for Prince Charlie. — Church-Going in Edinburgh.—The Bibles, the Sermons, the Prayers, the Music.—Jenny Geddes and her Stool.—The Disruption in 1843.—A Sermon-Taster with a Nippy Tongue.—Scot- tish and American Repartee, 87 CHAPTER XIIL Is the Scottish Character Degenerating? "Mine Own Romantic Town."—The Seamy Side of Edin- burgh.—The Cause of Her Wretchedness.—Not Lack of — X CONTENTS. Native Ability, nor Disregard of the Sabbath, but the Curse of Strong Drink.—Appalling Statistics.—A Lesser Menace, loo CHAPTER XIV. Stirling, the Lakes, and Glasgow. The Wallace Monument.—Memorials of the Martyrs.—Mar- garet Wilson.—The Covenanters.—The Author of "The Men of the Moss Hags."—Aberfoyle, The Trossachs, Loch Katrine, Loch Lomond.—Lord Overtoun's Garden Party. — Rev. John McNeill. — Scotch Humor. — Glas- gow.—The Cathedral.—Lord Kelvin, 107 CHAPTER XV. Oban, Iona, and Staffa. Rude Seas off the West Coast.—A Difficult Landing.—The Presbyter Abbot, Columba.—The Evangelization of Scot- land from Iona.—The Burial Place of the Scottish Kings. — The Basaltic Columns of Staffa. — Fingal's Cave.—Nature's Cathedral.—The Caledonian Canal, .... 119 CHAPTER XVI. Inverness and Memories of Flora Macdonald. A Clean and Comely City.—The Statue of Flora Macdon- ald.—The Career of a Royal Adventurer.—A Fugitive in the Hebrides. — A Woman to the Rescue. — Feminine Courage and Resource.—Flora Macdonald as Prisoner. Her Marriage.—She Entertains Dr. Johnson and Bos- well. — Moves to North Carolina. — Misfortunes in the New World.—Her Return to Scotland and her Last Days, 124 CHAPTER XVII. From Scotland to England — Western Route. In and Around Perth.—Quhele, Shoe Heel and Maxton. Crieff and Drumtochty.—Loch Leven.—Ayr and Robert —— CONTENTS. xi Burns. — Dumfries, Keswick, Skiddaw. — The English Lakes.—Chester.—Lichfield and Dr. Samuel Johnson. The Shakespeare Country.—The American Window at Stratford. — The English Language as Spoken in the Birthplace of Shakespeare and Elsewhere, 133 CHAPTER XVIII. A Visit to Rugby and a Tramp to the White Horse Hill. Tom Brown's School Days at Rugby.—The Rugby of To- day.—Our Expedition to Tom Brown's Birthplace.—The Highest Horse we Ever Mounted.—The Roman Camp. King Alfred's Defeat of the Danes.—The Manger and the Dragon's Hill. — The Blowing Stone. — The effect upon our Appetites.—The Tea we did not Drink.—Return to Oxford.—London Once More, 142 CHAPTER XIX. The Most Interesting Building in the World. The Birthplace of the Shorter Catechism.—The Coronation Postponed.—Westminster Abbey Still Closed.—The As- sembly of Divines.—The Two Places of Meeting.—The Two Types of Worship. — Interior of the Jerusalem Chamber.—Exterior of the Jerusalem Chamber.—Con- nection of Henry IV., Sir Thomas More, Joseph Addi- son, and Sir Isaac Newton with the Jerusalem Cham- ber.—Architectural Glory of Westminster Abbey.—Its Historical Interest.—Coronations.—The Stone of Scone. —Burials.—Monuments.—Pagan Sculptures in a Chris- tian Church, 151 CHAPTER XX. The Royal Chapels in Westminster Abbey, A Hard-Hearted Verger. — A Courteous Sub-Dean. — The Wax Effigies.—Mutilated Monuments.—Monuments De- nied to Notable Persons.—The Objection to Milton. General Meigs and President Davis.—The Vindication of Cromwell.—Treatment of his Dead Body.—History of his Head.—His Statue at Westminster, i63 — xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXI. The Cathedrals versus The Gospel. Original Significance of the Cathedrals.—Their Esthetic In- fluence.—Their Romanizing Tendency.—Their Charm for the Greatest of the Puritans.—A Half-Reformed Church. —Relics of Romanism.—Effect of Cathedrals on Pres- byterian Worship.—Superior Impressiveness of Protes- tant Simplicity, 177 CHAPTER XXII.
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