Sabato, 22 Febbraio 2020 www.corriere.it Genius Nine creative designers for eight collections. An event in Milan to present the new way of thinking, designing, communicating. Moncler Genius, now in its third year, tells us about itself In the yellow tower, Moncler Genius logo, from left to top: JW Anderson, Sergio Zambon e Veronica Leoni, Sandro Mandrino, Simone Rocha, Craig Green, Matthew Williams, Hiroshi Fujiwara, Richard Quinn PROGIDA VINCENZO The idea that changed Moncler Poste Italiane Sped. in A.P. D.L. 353/2003 conv. L.46/2004 art. 1, c1 DCB Milano. Non può essere distribuito separatamente dal Corriere della Sera 2 Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 Corriere della Sera Moncler HISTORY THE TURNING POINT The interview Remo Ruffini: «My Team of Geniuses: Moncler Today» by Paola Pollo The president and CEO talks about the process that led him to stake everything on Genius: no more runways and no longer two creatives, but a team of resident stylists in his virtual building. «We needed energy, so I just started. At the beginning, everyone thought I was crazy, but then the intensity became contagious» lenge of Genius: no more run- felt like a kid. But not that day. ways and no longer two cre- It was a shock. I like being atives, but a whole team of with young people. Old, rich «geniuses»—resident stylists people bore me. The only one in a virtual building illuminat- I hang out with is Massimo ed by the light of Moncler. «I Piombo and now he’ll be mad was afraid of being boring and about the description». And boring myself. I felt absolutely he laughs, thinking about the no emotion at the end of a face of his life-long friend. emo Ruffini, born 1961, Como runway and I said to myself: if Now do you prefer Mr. Ge- Rborn and bred. Although now I don’t feel it, just imagine my nius or Mr. Moncler? he divides his time between consumer» he repeated ad in- «I’ve always thought of Ge- Como and Milan. «A deal with finitum to the sceptics who At the beginning, it was nius as the expressive side of my wife Francesca». He’ll be asked him why such a compli- Moncler. That’s it». 59 in September. The 27th, a cated revolution when he important to let this It’s just that people are Libra. Sign of people who are could bask in what he had al- wondering. creative. «No, being creative is ready accomplished. «We yellow tower emerge. «It’s part of our strategy. At a whole different thing». May- needed energy, so I just start- the beginning, it was impor- be a visionary? «Entrepreneur, ed. At the beginning, everyone We had to get into tant to let this yellow tower I’d say. Practical». The perfect thought I was crazy, but then emerge. We knew it wasn’t an self-description for someone the intensity became conta- people’s heads with a lot easy project, we had to get in- who, in 2003, acquired a gious». to people’s heads with a lot of brand others said was fin- When you look in the mir- of different names and different names and expres- ished, but filled with memo- ror today, what do you see? sions. It needed time. Two ries for him, and in 2013 he «An article appeared recent- expressions. Now, slowly years, but it paid off. Now, listed it on the Milan stock ex- ly and there was a photo of me slowly but surely, appearing change with a capitalization of in it. My hair was white. For but surely, on the patch [the original lo- €2.55 billion that rose to ten. the first time, I saw a gentle- go—eds.] is the yellow tower Two years ago, the chal- man. I always saw myself and the new logo is emerging [the new logo—eds.], it’s al- Moncler Corriere della Sera Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 3 ready in the new campaign». day, without electricity, we hand Moncler, this wasn’t ob- In 1954 Lino about this brand intrigues me. What is genius to you? would still be using candles vious. Given the errors of the Lacedelli and They’re fantastic. But I don’t «In our work, we need ge- and the world wouldn’t be in- previous owners, the most im- Achille buy down jackets, mostly niuses to have them interpret terconnected. No globaliza- portant thing was to interna- Compagnoni sportswear». such a different, sporty proj- tion, no perception». tionalize it. Not so much to conquered K2. Don’t you think fashion ect. For example Pierpaolo Is this also your approach sell more, but to understand The team was should ease up a bit? Includ- [Piccioli—eds.], a couturier, a to fashion? the consumer. The important equipped with ing prices? real creative. It was the most «I have never approached thing is to be part of the Moncler down «I think there should be re- successful Moncler media this sector from an artistic world, understand the multi- jackets, brought spect for the consumer, I’ve al- project of all time thanks to standpoint. I have always plicity of cultures and what to a high degree ways said this. I make a prod- the merging of two forces, looked for concrete, functional they want». of specialization uct that costs me 10 and I sell above and beyond the stock solutions. It’s just the way I What thrills you in a prod- by Lionel it at 50 or 70 all year, because concept of “commercial or I want to provide the am. Important designer, major uct? Terray, it’s the right thing to do. And non-commercial”. If you are brand, product consistency: «Simplicity. Being able to who was a key I assure the quality. Plus I re- able to do a couple of down jacket to the kid who these are my parameters. Ge- find the product immediately. character in the main faithful to my principle». evening dresses and make a nius is perhaps the first time Take J.W. Anderson, for exam- history of the And what principle is that? real impact on consumers snowboards and the I’ve let myself go a bit. But ple, now with us in Genius. brand. On the «Transversality. I want to around the world, even if they when I entered the tower and Whether designing Loewe, opposite page, provide the jacket to the kid don’t sell, it doesn’t really mat- manager who goes to the I saw all those different proj- Uniqlo or his brand, he always Remo Ruffini who snowboards and the ter. This is what genius is to ects but from the same roots, achieves incredible simplicity, manager who goes to the of- me». office wearing it over his I felt satisfied». despite the fact that he, him- fice wearing it over his busi- Geniuses from the past? But where did you get the self, is complicated». ness suit. The down jack for «People like Thomas Edi- business suit. The down idea to acquire a French Doesn’t it bother you that grandmother and grand- son, who invented something brand and give it Italian citi- one of your team designs for daughter alike. I love this chal- that made people’s lives bet- jack for grandmother and zenship? others? Even for a leading lenge». ter». «I believe that the world to- brand in “more for your But the young people you So no one in the arts? grand daughter alike. day is so transparent that we money” down jackets? are talking about have a hard «No, I connect it with in- shouldn’t think in those terms. «But I go to Uniqlo on time finding a job, their buy- ventions. In other words, to- This is the challenge I love When I began and took in- Broadway, too. Everything ing power is very limited. 4 Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 Corriere della Sera Moncler HISTORY THE TURNING POINT «It is a cultural more than a was pushed to get him to they are and what Genius is enjoy being around. I accept financial problem. Take Amer- reach the American consumer, and they have to be attracted people’s defects, but I never ica, which remains the most and I chose him because he’s a to each other in some way». like them 100%. You have to difficult market for us. Over lovely person. He has a good What is envy to you? Have find a balance, otherwise you the last 4-5 years following the presence, good principles. You you ever felt it or been the remain alone. What does the 2008-2009 crisis, it has grown have to know how to handle target of it? word friend mean? I still don’t a lot and today it is even celebrities or influencers. And «I think I am fairly envied, know, to tell the truth». helped by fashion. For exam- sometimes you give them five because of my personality. For Has success changed you? ple, the streetwear phenome- million to sell a nail polish myself, I’ve never been envi- «Many people ask me this. I non». and maybe you don’t even suc- ous, of anyone. I dislike people don’t think so. My life is the Would you like it if Greta ceed». sometimes, this is true. But for same as it was when I was 22, Thunberg wore one of your How do you choose your geniuses, creative people, I with the same friends I’ve al- down jackets? «geniuses»? feel respect.