Sabato, 22 Febbraio 2020 www.corriere.it Genius
Nine creative designers for eight collections. An event in Milan to present the new way of thinking, designing, communicating. Moncler Genius, now in its third year, tells us about itself
In the yellow tower, Moncler Genius logo, from left to top: JW Anderson, Sergio Zambon e Veronica Leoni, Sandro Mandrino, Simone Rocha, Craig Green, Matthew Williams, Hiroshi Fujiwara,
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HISTORY THE TURNING POINT The interview Remo Ruffini: «My Team of Geniuses: Moncler Today»
by Paola Pollo The president and CEO talks about the process that led him to stake everything on Genius: no more runways and no longer two creatives, but a team of resident stylists in his virtual building. «We needed energy, so I just started. At the beginning, everyone thought I was crazy, but then the intensity became contagious»
lenge of Genius: no more run- felt like a kid. But not that day. ways and no longer two cre- It was a shock. I like being atives, but a whole team of with young people. Old, rich «geniuses»—resident stylists people bore me. The only one in a virtual building illuminat- I hang out with is Massimo ed by the light of Moncler. «I Piombo and now he’ll be mad was afraid of being boring and about the description». And boring myself. I felt absolutely he laughs, thinking about the no emotion at the end of a face of his life-long friend. emo Ruffini, born 1961, Como runway and I said to myself: if Now do you prefer Mr. Ge- Rborn and bred. Although now I don’t feel it, just imagine my nius or Mr. Moncler? he divides his time between consumer» he repeated ad in- «I’ve always thought of Ge- Como and Milan. «A deal with finitum to the sceptics who At the beginning, it was nius as the expressive side of my wife Francesca». He’ll be asked him why such a compli- Moncler. That’s it». 59 in September. The 27th, a cated revolution when he important to let this It’s just that people are Libra. Sign of people who are could bask in what he had al- wondering. creative. «No, being creative is ready accomplished. «We yellow tower emerge. «It’s part of our strategy. At a whole different thing». May- needed energy, so I just start- the beginning, it was impor- be a visionary? «Entrepreneur, ed. At the beginning, everyone We had to get into tant to let this yellow tower I’d say. Practical». The perfect thought I was crazy, but then emerge. We knew it wasn’t an self-description for someone the intensity became conta- people’s heads with a lot easy project, we had to get in- who, in 2003, acquired a gious». to people’s heads with a lot of brand others said was fin- When you look in the mir- of different names and different names and expres- ished, but filled with memo- ror today, what do you see? sions. It needed time. Two ries for him, and in 2013 he «An article appeared recent- expressions. Now, slowly years, but it paid off. Now, listed it on the Milan stock ex- ly and there was a photo of me slowly but surely, appearing change with a capitalization of in it. My hair was white. For but surely, on the patch [the original lo- €2.55 billion that rose to ten. the first time, I saw a gentle- go—eds.] is the yellow tower Two years ago, the chal- man. I always saw myself and the new logo is emerging [the new logo—eds.], it’s al- Moncler Corriere della Sera Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 3
ready in the new campaign». day, without electricity, we hand Moncler, this wasn’t ob- In 1954 Lino about this brand intrigues me. What is genius to you? would still be using candles vious. Given the errors of the Lacedelli and They’re fantastic. But I don’t «In our work, we need ge- and the world wouldn’t be in- previous owners, the most im- Achille buy down jackets, mostly niuses to have them interpret terconnected. No globaliza- portant thing was to interna- Compagnoni sportswear». such a different, sporty proj- tion, no perception». tionalize it. Not so much to conquered K2. Don’t you think fashion ect. For example Pierpaolo Is this also your approach sell more, but to understand The team was should ease up a bit? Includ- [Piccioli—eds.], a couturier, a to fashion? the consumer. The important equipped with ing prices? real creative. It was the most «I have never approached thing is to be part of the Moncler down «I think there should be re- successful Moncler media this sector from an artistic world, understand the multi- jackets, brought spect for the consumer, I’ve al- project of all time thanks to standpoint. I have always plicity of cultures and what to a high degree ways said this. I make a prod- the merging of two forces, looked for concrete, functional they want». of specialization uct that costs me 10 and I sell above and beyond the stock solutions. It’s just the way I What thrills you in a prod- by Lionel it at 50 or 70 all year, because concept of “commercial or I want to provide the am. Important designer, major uct? Terray, it’s the right thing to do. And non-commercial”. If you are brand, product consistency: «Simplicity. Being able to who was a key I assure the quality. Plus I re- able to do a couple of down jacket to the kid who these are my parameters. Ge- find the product immediately. character in the main faithful to my principle». evening dresses and make a nius is perhaps the first time Take J.W. Anderson, for exam- history of the And what principle is that? real impact on consumers snowboards and the I’ve let myself go a bit. But ple, now with us in Genius. brand. On the «Transversality. I want to around the world, even if they when I entered the tower and Whether designing Loewe, opposite page, provide the jacket to the kid don’t sell, it doesn’t really mat- manager who goes to the I saw all those different proj- Uniqlo or his brand, he always Remo Ruffini who snowboards and the ter. This is what genius is to ects but from the same roots, achieves incredible simplicity, manager who goes to the of- me». office wearing it over his I felt satisfied». despite the fact that he, him- fice wearing it over his busi- Geniuses from the past? But where did you get the self, is complicated». ness suit. The down jack for «People like Thomas Edi- business suit. The down idea to acquire a French Doesn’t it bother you that grandmother and grand- son, who invented something brand and give it Italian citi- one of your team designs for daughter alike. I love this chal- that made people’s lives bet- jack for grandmother and zenship? others? Even for a leading lenge». ter». «I believe that the world to- brand in “more for your But the young people you So no one in the arts? grand daughter alike. day is so transparent that we money” down jackets? are talking about have a hard «No, I connect it with in- shouldn’t think in those terms. «But I go to Uniqlo on time finding a job, their buy- ventions. In other words, to- This is the challenge I love When I began and took in- Broadway, too. Everything ing power is very limited. 4 Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 Corriere della Sera Moncler
HISTORY THE TURNING POINT
«It is a cultural more than a was pushed to get him to they are and what Genius is enjoy being around. I accept financial problem. Take Amer- reach the American consumer, and they have to be attracted people’s defects, but I never ica, which remains the most and I chose him because he’s a to each other in some way». like them 100%. You have to difficult market for us. Over lovely person. He has a good What is envy to you? Have find a balance, otherwise you the last 4-5 years following the presence, good principles. You you ever felt it or been the remain alone. What does the 2008-2009 crisis, it has grown have to know how to handle target of it? word friend mean? I still don’t a lot and today it is even celebrities or influencers. And «I think I am fairly envied, know, to tell the truth». helped by fashion. For exam- sometimes you give them five because of my personality. For Has success changed you? ple, the streetwear phenome- million to sell a nail polish myself, I’ve never been envi- «Many people ask me this. I non». and maybe you don’t even suc- ous, of anyone. I dislike people don’t think so. My life is the Would you like it if Greta ceed». sometimes, this is true. But for same as it was when I was 22, Thunberg wore one of your How do you choose your geniuses, creative people, I with the same friends I’ve al- down jackets? «geniuses»? feel respect. And of those who With Will Smith, ways had. I don’t hang out «I would be stupid if I said «There are people who ask are successful, I am more fas- with anyone famous». no. A young women of that me and I like them a lot, but cinated by their strategy than for the first time, But you hold a lot of par- age with such strong ideas maybe it’s just not the right the financial gains». ties. about such a sensitive issue. moment. Or I have to scout Why do you bring up your we are using «I always have. It’s just that But her extremism could both- and look for someone specific. difficult personality again? now, with Instagram, you see er some». I pay a lot of attention to gen- «Because people say it a celebrity in our ad everything. I like being around You’ve never relied on in- erations and tastes. There’s a about me. But if I don’t like a fun people. Young people». fluencers. team that works on this». person, it’s true, for me they campaign. I was pushed What is the thing that hurt «We try to be involved, but Have you all ever sat down don’t exist». you most? we’re not fixated. With Will to eat together? You often talk about to get him to reach the «The report by Milena Smith, it’s the first time we do «Not this year. Last year we friendship. Gabanelli. I was tortured by a campaign with someone fa- did. It was interesting, it even «It’s important, the way it is American consumer, those photos. I made one of mous. I met him, he’s a very, led to friendships. I have al- for everyone. You have to un- my many resolutions and for a very nice person, I like him a ways noted tremendous re- derstand who your friends are, and I chose him because year I didn’t touch meat. But lot. We sat down and it was spect among them. It’s also if they are those who enjoy I’ve never understood why she more a chat than a strategy. I true that they all know who being around you or those you he’s a lovely person went after me, there were a lot Moncler Corriere della Sera Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 5
of us in the same boat. There’s tening—it’s more like a limits? Collections born studying the practical solutions no question that the system thinker or preacher than a «Omnipotence. I’m terrified from the Moncler to keep things under control, needs to be monitored and businessman. of it. I have my own brain and Genius project, but also start up again as soon this helped me to create the «If you don’t know the mar- way of thinking and try to ride which has seen as it is over. Of course, you procedures to stay calmer». kets, if you don’t know the with them, but I also try to the brand involve can’t close stores and then It’s being said that Jean world, for a company like ours, listen to everyone. I know too ever-changing open them again in three Paul Gaultier will be design- you can’t expect to keep up many people who, with suc- talents in terms of months». ing for you... with the times. I’m concrete, cess, have been overtaken by origin, training And how are things with «No. He isn’t one of the four this is what my business is omnipotence and have become and sensitivity. your shareholders? that we will be presenting over based on: understanding the deaf and blind. This is what Fron the left: «I always tell them exactly the next few days». consumer and creating a really scares me and it is a limit Moncler what I’m thinking. Without The new «challenge», in strong brand. Of course the I don’t want to cross. And it Grenoble, Simone preconceptions or influences Ruffini-style? My goal is to give the product is extremely impor- isn’t easy». Rocha, Craig dictated by the market. At the «Give the consumer a real tant, it’s my daily work, but for So no more financial wor- Green, Pierpaolo beginning, I was sceptical be- say. We will be starting this consumer a voice. We’re the label to be charming, it is ries? Piccioli, Moncler cause, as a norm, they look to with the Rimowa project. Cus- the brand that wins out over «Let’s say I’ve tried to man- Noir, Alyx 9sm growth as a thing in itself, but tomers can create their luggage starting with the Rimowa the product. In the end, today, age that aspect of my life by then they began to understand the way they want. I want them one of our most popular items basing myself on a solid com- and today we have a good rela- to communicate, to express project: customers can on the market is a jacket we pany». tionship». themselves. I want to open an- have made for 29 years, since China today will probably If you were to sell (in De- other real dialogue with the create the luggage they 1954. This is an example of keep you awake. cember there was talk of ne- consumer. That’s what people what I’m saying. A garment «I don’t even want to think gotiations with Kering) and are looking for and do on Ins- want. I want to open that I didn’t make, I only im- about the disaster, for every- the new owner said no to Ge- tagram. It’s the way people proved the fabric and the cut, one. Even if, as a corporate nius? think today. And now the time another real dialogue with and yet it is the most popular strategy, we are always plan- «What I have always tried to has come to put it into prac- in the world. What does this ning for an emergency. And do is find people who could tice. Just imagine how many the consumer. Just imagine mean? That the brand is stron- among everyone, we are one of take the ‘next step’ with Mon- new ideas could arrive». ger than the product». the lucky ones because ours is cler, always». Communicating and lis- how many ideas we’ll have Do you set yourself any a seasonal product. We are © RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA 6 Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 Corriere della Sera Moncler
THE NINE DESIGNERS THE PORTRAITS Jonathan Anderson New entry into the Genius group for the 1 Moncler JW Anderson Designer drew on his personal archive. «Young people today are calling just about everything into question. Even male and female clothing»
tswear seem to be giving way to more formal fashions. What role does the down jacket have in this new panorama? «The collection we created for Genius precisely involves this new idea of layering. The onathan Anderson is one of down jacket becomes stre- Jthe new names that entered etwear if it is combined with the 2020 Moncler Genius jeans and trainers, it depends project. Remo Ruffini is es- on what you pair it with. Ma- pecially proud of this colla- terials and silhouettes are im- boration, intrigued as he is portant, but, increasingly, by the sophisticated creativity styling is what makes the dif- of this 36-year-old designer ference». who reaped critical as well as When you designed your commercial success with his collection, whom did you collections designed for the have in mind? brand that bears his name, «For everyone, to be worn JW Anderson, and as the cre- every day». ative director of the Spanish Do young people really house, Loewe. Born in 1986 want gender fluid fashion? in Northern Ireland, he stu- «I think that young people died menswear at the College today are asking themselves of Fashion in London, where many questions. They’re cal- he currently lives, and in Fe- ling just about everything in- bruary 2019 he was asked to to question. I think this is sit on the board of the Victo- exciting and important for ria and Albert Museum. society. They are asking «Jonathan has an approach themselves what it means to to luxury that is completely dress like a boy and a girl». different from other desi- What is your vision? The gners», his patron Ruffini ex- same garment to be sha- plains. A «pop approach» red, or the same model in that draws on local craft- two silhouettes? smanship to create so- «When you create fashion, mething unique. A purist you also have to interpret the who respects manual labour, style trends people are ready you could say. to accept. We have created For the Moncler collection, different silhouettes in the he created wearable garmen- collection. It’s your choice ts for both men and women, about which to wear». «very simple in terms of desi- In his words: «Luxury gn, but strong on a concep- isn’t about a purse. It’s the tual level» as his manager ex- experience tied to the plained. object». What is the expe- Mr. Anderson, what con- rience tied to Moncler? vinced you to say yes? «Here, luxury is the quali- «I have always been very «I blew up ty. Uniqueness». struck by Moncler as a brand Another thought: «I wan- and what Ruffini has done ted to create a closet that with the Genius project is was highly desirable». Ac- amazing. When I was con- the down jacket cording to Anderson, what tacted, I had no hesitation, I is desirable today? felt honoured». «I like things that are What was the inspiration exclusive, outside the main- for your collection? stream. You stop and look at «I had the idea to expand In my style, them and maybe you’re not my archive. I selected a num- sure... but they make you ber of basic JW Anderson think». pieces and I ‘blew them up’ Remo Ruffini’s idea is using the Moncler magni- there are no rules» that fashion must become fying glass and its team of more collaborative because experts». «if you stay in your own What surprised you in space, you’re not relevant particular about this Italian enough». Do you agree? clothing and accessories «Yes, totally. Since I started company? purse, a detail that impacts porary? working in this sector, I’ve «At Moncler I found craft- on the form and creates volu- «I wouldn’t use the adjecti- been asked to collaborate a smanship and truly incredi- me. It seems easy, but it’s a ve contemporary. I would say number of times. I think you ble know-how. Their approa- complicated construction». that it is in line with the JW can learn a lot working with ch to design is simple: eve- You are very popular with Anderson style which doesn’t other people, or when you rything is possible, so- your generation, also for always follow the norm. Ac- take a step out of your mething absolutely amazing. your provocative androgy- tually, I would say that it comfort zone». They were able to create a nous designs. What makes challenges it». Maria Teresa Veneziani quilted down interior for a your down jacket contem- Street style and spor- © RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA Moncler Corriere della Sera Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 7
#MONCLERJWANDERSON @jw_anderson
When you create fashion, you also have to interpret the style trends people are ready to accept. We have created different silhouettes in the collection. It’s your choice about which to wear
Model Kaia Gerber (top) wears 1 Moncler JW Anderson collection (also on the left) during the Moncler Genius event in Milan. On the opposite page the portrait of Jonathan Anderson. Collection available in store from Avril 8 Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 Corriere della Sera Moncler
THE NINE DESIGNERS THE PORTRAITS Sergio Zambon e Veronica Leoni He planned the menswear line, she created the womenswear collection for 2 Moncler 1952, which reimagined the original down jacket for the young generations. New silhouettes, a stretchy bag of feathers and a relaxed spirit
roles because it’s one of the sectors that isn’t just evolving, it’s a continuously expanding magmatic mass». Zambon has imposed a style that features his gen- derless vision: is this what the future holds? ts name is 2 Moncler 1952 be- «For 2 Genius Moncler 1952 Icause when Veronica Leoni I only do menswear, but and Sergio Zambon were when I’m out and about I see asked by Remo Ruffini to rei- even girls wearing my pa- magine the down jacket for tchwork cape and the pop yel- the new generations, they low down jacket, and I like started from the origins of the that a lot. My style has had brand created at Monestier- across-the-board appeal. I de-Clermont, a ski resort near start from the historical cha- Grenoble, by René Ramillon racter of the great classics, and André Vincent. Here we without losing sight of the actually have two Geniuses: street style that I prefer to de- Leoni, with a degree in Litera- fine as everyday contempo- ture (and a previous life as an rary; it can be inspired by a expert on Céline) who is in musical trend or a sport. One charge of the womenswear li- of the concepts that I ampli- ne, and Zambon, multitasking fied in this project: your war- designer born in Egypt to a drobe consists of a white t- Croatian mother and Italian shirt, one of those Chanel ba- father (studies at the IED and gs with the chain, a pair of experience at Fendi), in char- Levi’s and a blue Moncler ge of menswear. down jacket». Veronica, how do you How do you explain this make a down jacket look fe- return of the down jacket? minine? «It’s extremely contempo- «I tried to develop more rary because it combines waist-hugging, sculptural si- unexpected style with practi- lhouettes, also drawing inspi- cality, function – an aspect ration from classical tailoring. that the great fashion desi- We finally succeeded thanks gners have always held in hi- to stretch bags of feathers. gh consideration —. At any And there is also a more fluid rate, for a designer there is part of the collection with a nothing that pleases us more combination of special fibers that finding people on the and ultra-feminine materials street wearing designs that like velvet». we were the first to present in When is it okay to wear a a fashion show. Nowadays, I down jacket and when is it don’t see the down jacket as verboten? street wear, but simply as the «The greatest challenge for symbol of contemporary 2 Moncler Genius 1952 was fashion, which is what every- just that: we wanted to try to body is looking for». overcome the classical stere- What is «out» now? otype of the down jacket to «Style referred to the age of take it beyond the obvious. I the person. There used to be tried to make it as universal as many different styles for as possible in the feminine war- many occasions. The cultural drobe, ideal for every situa- revolution has annihilated our tion». obsession with age, at least». Ruffini says that fashion What has surprised you? has to be more collaborati- «Genius is having «The natural, organic way ve. Moncler has of developing «At the industrial level, I ideas. There’s a very young think it’s essential to be con- approach and an opening nected. We need to exchange a holistic vision toward new ideas without the information, to pool the old style drama of classical know how that ensures the fashion. This is perhaps also advancement of the supply the secret of Los Angeles, a chain. And we have to be in- city with a relaxed spirit that volved on every level, also (because designing is is my inspiration for the col- from the geographical stan- lection, collaborating with dpoint in a global dimension, four local artists, designers to be as open as possible in and graphic artists. This way order to involve the consumer no longer enough)» of working is the future». more and more». What would you say is the So who is the Genius to- function of social networks day? in fashion today? «There was one woman «They are an ideal support who we could say anticipated for communication and free- the whole Genius concept, fashion. It was her sense of replies Zambon —. It used to dom for their rapidity. I use and that’s Vivienne Westwo- responsibility that made her be the creator, the designer Instagram a lot instead of od, whose values I absolutely authentic and able to offer a with the name. Now there are WhatsApp to send messages share. She was always a femi- pure contribution, without many different roles, it might and make appointments. We nist, and a designer with a bending to commercial logi- be the creative director who geolocate and zero in on one social and cultural outlook. cs». has a holistic vision: he un- another right away in any ci- As the outsider she is, she And for Sergio Zambon, derstands how to oversee a ty». contextualized her style in the who is a Genius? project and promote a stra- Maria Teresa Veneziani terms of a cause greater than «Things have changed — tegy. Fashion needs all these © RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA Moncler Corriere della Sera Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 9
#MONCLER1952 @veronicaleoni (for women collection) @sergiozambon (for men collection)
At the industrial level, I think it’s essential to be connected. We need to exchange information, to pool the know how that ensures the advancement of the supply chain. And we have to be involved on every level
The 2 Moncler 1952 (by Veronica Leoni e Sergio Zambon) collection during the Moncler Genius event in Milan. On the opposite page the portrait of two designer. Collection available in store from September 10 Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 Corriere della Sera Moncler
THE NINE DESIGNERS THE PORTRAITS Sandro Mandrino 3 Moncler Grenoble is the most high-performance of the Genius collections. It has been designed, since 2010, by a stylist who believes in reinterpreting the fundamentals of mountain gear to make it «ordinary daywear»
asons. «At this time I think freedom is one of the most important concepts of fashion. Freedom to interpret garments according to our mood, but also to the occa- sion». In the case of this Gre- noble collection for Genius he roll call of resident desi- how did you approach this? Tgners of the new Genius «The line consists of both Project couldn’t fail to inclu- masculine and feminine de the name of Sandro Man- items also because, depen- drino. Since 2010 he has hea- ding on the use for which ded the creative direction of they were intended, two dif- Moncler Grenoble, the skiwe- ferent types of apparel were ar collection which made its needed, in relation to the fit, debut in New York, a mem- designed to ensure optimum ber of the fashion group performance. And once off launched by Remo Ruffini the slopes, these garments devoted to the world of ski- transform, so it’s possible to ing and mountain life. And use them in a completely much more as well. New universal way». York, with the high peaks of It is no coincidence that its skyscrapers and its fa- Mandrino has always chosen mous skyline quickly became unusual fabrics for his Gre- the other face of the brand. noble creations, if one thinks Since their debut, the Greno- of typical high-performance ble collections were designed apparel for skiing. «Even in for performance on the ski the past, I have always ten- slopes, but at the same time ded to use fabrics like wool featured elements of style and velvet that were certainly that would permit them to not typical for this type of inhabit a metropolitan war- apparel, so I guess I’d have to drobe and be worn every day, consider that a sort of calling like traditional jackets and card for my style». coats. From freedom of move- «Moncler Grenoble is the ment on the ski slope to ex- only part of the Genius col- treme creative freedom, and lection that already existed thus even freedom in the before the project was even sources of inspiration. «I’m a conceived. Being present at very curious person by nature the beginning and then con- and I use everything I have at stantly within this creative hand. Including the social platform is stimulating». media». So you consider For Mandrino, this is the them an important referen- third edition in which he has ce? «They are the current had a leading role. He was mode of communication, a able to take advantage of all rapid tool developed for a the background acquired in particularly vast audience. previous years, merging his They arrived on the scene as past experience (he had been an addition to existing forms in charge of the menswear of communication and took lines at both Gucci and Pra- over, becoming fundamen- da), with that of developing «Graffiti for my tal». the Grenoble collections. Widespread appeal, total «They were technical collec- independence in the creative tions, above all. But the tech- choices and in the inspira- nical aspect became at the sa- technical apparel tion for collections with close me time synonymous with a ties to the natural world, the new stylish quality embed- wide open spaces, the moun- ded in the very function of tains and the ski slopes. How the garment. It is just that do you feel about the threats across-the-board appeal that, (for ski slope to the ecosystems and the I think, makes the line parti- consequent and burning is- cularly contemporary». sue of sustainability? «There Mandrino brings this same is no question that the issue contemporary quality to the and city street)» of sustainability is currently Genius Project, translating it at the forefront of our consi- into graphic solutions with deration. It is of vital impor- high impact. «The apparel tance for us to recognize that designed for this third collec- an epochal social change is tion draws inspiration from taking place. My response, the graffiti we saw everywhe- of the Isère region. And since over the past years I have season after season, has been re in the Nineties. It is the its debut almost a decade tried to find stronger esthetic to create collections of appa- common denominator of the ago, Mandrino has focused solutions for high perfor- rel that can last for a long entire line, from the jackets his approach on key elemen- mance apparel». time. That is my way of res- to the ski jumpsuits. Accesso- ts like performance and tech- Without ever losing sight, pecting the environment and ries, too». The Grenoble le- nology, comfort and light- either, of the value of extre- responding to the changes gacy is linked to the pure ness. «Performance is funda- me freedom of action, an im- under way». sports vocation of the brand: mental for my collection. portant facet of the creative Gian Luca Bauzano it was named after the capital Thanks to my experience focus of fashion for these se- © RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA Moncler Corriere della Sera Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 11
#MONCLERGRENOBLE @sandromandrino
There is no question that the issue of sustainability is currently at the forefront of our consideration. My response, season after season, has been to create collections of apparel that can last for a long time
The 3 Moncler Grenoble collection by Sandro Mandrino during the Moncler Genius event in Milan. On the opposite page the portrait of the designer. Collection available in store from October 12 Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 Corriere della Sera Moncler
HE NINE DESIGNERS THE PORTRAITS Simone Rocha The Irish designer is at her fourth collection 4 Moncler Simone Rocha. «I design clothes that are practical and feminine, modern and beautiful. Luxury? To me it means having time, including the time to enjoy a dress and take it with you all your life»
enjoy a dress and take it with you all your life». The street style has evol- ved in recent years and the trend is heading toward a return to a rather more ele- gant look. How to you turn a down jacket into a chic ancing and movement, femi- garment? «Dninity and imagination. «By working on the pro- Think of the clothes in a Fe- portions, materials and craft- derico Fellini film. I imagined smanship». different ways of adapting And these, then, are the this concept to the Moncler basic points of the Moncler codes». Simone Rocha de- collection realized by Simone scribes her womenswear col- Rocha, thinking of the war- lection (the fourth) for the drobe of a «creative woman». project Moncler Genius 2020. Femininity, she tells us, is ex- «I captured the collection in pressed in a profusion of ruf- a movie made with Petra Col- fles; the designer loves ruffles lins, director and photo- and uses them to embellish grapher of women, famous the fronts of her parkas, but for her dreamlike images. also skirts, shorts and flee- She interpreted perfectly the ces, even her hoodies worn lights and shadows, imagina- under helmets. The floral in- tion and suspense, femininity spiration is another key ele- and fragility: all the elements ment of the collections: pan- I want to convey through my sies, little daisies and roses fashions», the designer ex- reproduced with a range of plains. Born and raised in different techniques to create Dublin, daughter of the desi- the idea of a garden in full gner John Rocha, she is 33 bloom, from embroidery to now. She studied at the Na- embossing and prints, even tional College of Art and De- three-dimensional appliques. sign in Dublin and at the Her fabrics include micro- Central Saint Martins in Lon- taffetas, fine nylon with a cri- don, and from the outset was sp weft and sparkling surface acclaimed by the critics for for the lightweight between- her ability to achieve a per- season garments (what she fect balance between si- calls «transition garments»). lhouette and artisanal orna- Puffy sleeves are a theme of ment, to create new forms of the collection that also inclu- femininity. des leather and nylon fo- How would you describe otwear and features the fresh your style to an alien from tints of spring: ivory, pink, another planet? red, lime, baby blue, beige, «I design practical, mo- black. Then there is the tren- dern, beautiful femininity». ch coat, which has become Function has become an one of the icons of Simone essential aspect of fashion, Roche’s style and that this ti- indispensable in a down me echoes the military uni- jacket. And what about form «representing power esthetics? and discipline» but turning it «Esthetics and practicality into a sophisticated feminine are contrasting elements that coat thanks to the rounded Moncler juxtaposes to extra- «I want to create links proportions, bulky fabrics ordinary effect». and luxurious embellishmen- What is the role of ts. Even the logo is a patch fashion today? decorated with crystals. «It’s a form of expression». A field of wildflowers Your flowers are a refe- How do you make rence to nature, what do fashion desirable in a wor- you think is the role of ld crowded with objects fashion in responsibility where everything is imme- toward the planet? diately old? in bloom is something «I think the whole world «By remaining authentic has to become consciously and coherent with my vi- sustainable and each of us in sion». our own small way can con- In the vision of Remo that really thrills me» tribute». Ruffini, the Moncler Ge- She has almost 250,000 nius event at the Milan followers on Instagram. Fashion Week also served What do you see as the in- to create a connection fluence of social media? between the virtual world «I’m on Instagram to share and the real one. Is there a «Someone who has a lot of vative spirit, the stimuli that my process, my inspiration need to get back to expe- self-esteem and serenity. one can find in the history and my vision». rience? However I think that genius and experience of Moncler In the sign of connection, «I’d like to create links is also represented by a col- and of the other creative also among consumers, a between people and to do lective». minds». community that engages in that I try to create clothes Like the group of Mon- What does luxury mean communication and the that trigger emotions». cler designers? for Simone Rocha today? exchange of information. Can you trace the iden- «What fascinates me most «To me it means having ti- Maria Teresa Veneziani tikit of a Genius today? about the project is its inno- me, including the time to © RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA Moncler Corriere della Sera Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 13
#MONCLERSIMONEROCHA @simonerocha_
Genius today is someone who has a lot of self- esteem and serenity. However I think that genius is also represented by a collective. I’d like to create links between people and to do that I try to create clothes that trigger emotions
The 4 Moncler Simone Rocha collection during the event in Milan. On the opposite page the portrait of the designer. Collection available in store from March 14 Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 Corriere della Sera Moncler
THE MAP
1 MONCLER 2 MONCLER 2 MONCLER 3 MONCLER 4 MONCLER 5 MONCLER JW ANDERSON 1952 MAN 1952 WOMAN GRENOBLE SIMONE ROCHA CRAIG GREEN Moncler Corriere della Sera Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 15
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6 MONCLER 7 MONCLER 8 MONCLER POLDO MATE BIKE RIMOWA 1017 ALYX 9SM FRAGMENT RICHARD QUINN DOG COUTURE INSTALLATION WALL INSTALLATION HIROSHI FUJIWARA 16 Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 Corriere della Sera Moncler
THE NINE DESIGNERS THE PORTRAITS Craig Green This British designer has been part of the Genius team since the project began. “Each year, it’s as if Moncler calls itself into question through the voices of others. This way is 5 Moncler Craig Green
mony with Green’s irrepressi- ble desire to receive and give emotion. In harmony and sy- nergy with the Genius Project. Where he was able to take advantage of his magnificent obsession for worker jackets. «I worked on my new collec- raig Green put challenging hi- tion for Moncler Genius 2020, Cmself as the priority right focussing on structures that from the beginning: the pro- are protective, but at the same tagonists on the runway coul- time very light. And also sim- dn’t only be the clothes, as ple, but the fruit of an elabo- excellent as they were. «Emo- rate creative process». tion needed to be brought Listening to him talk about back to centre stage in the the experience, tremendous creative process». It immedia- enthusiasm for this challenge tely became his creed. But can be heard in the voice of this was no surprise, looking this London designer. Also at Green’s DNA. Born in 1986, because Moncler did not im- in London, in his birthplace pose any restrictions, leaving he studied at the Central Saint him total creative and deci- Martins, the legendary sion-making freedom. «Every fashion institute, and with an designer who has been or is equally legendary teacher. part of it has been able to Professor Louise Wilson, work autonomously. The known and venerated by all projects have been able to de- the fashion greats, not only velop in total freedom, for her exceptional teaching without having to following skills, but also her own talent any pre-set direction». and encyclopaedic knowledge The strength of Genius, of materials, as well as her Green stresses, is the «conti- incisive comments and unfai- nuous development of propo- ling eye in identifying future sals over the year [his capsule talent. It’s no accident that collection will be unveiled this Alexander McQueen was rai- coming July—eds.]. They are sed under her wing. the different facets of a shared And so was he. Green also vision». A creative project that benefited from his illustrious also has a strong impact from colleague. Today, his creativi- the standpoint of communica- ty is centred around some ba- tions. Naturally, social media sic cornerstones: fantasy, is also involved, the mixed form, content and emotion. blessing of our contemporary His obsession is worker jac- world. «Today, a quick and kets, work uniforms, the re- fundamental tool. Also, be- sult of his family history. His cause we are not talking about father was a plumber and his a collection that is tied to a mother nurse, and both wore particular moment or season, uniforms. His has transfor- but a world in continuous med them into simple gar- evolution, it is precisely throu- ments with an ethereal ap- gh social media that the end proach. Focus of his men’s li- consumer can perceive the ne, created in 2012, his 2015 «My parents and constant change through the summer collection brought various points of view and, him international fame. Since even more, the innovative then, his runway has been charge». Collaboration, creati- one of the most eagerly-awai- the obsession vity and experimentation is ted at London Fashion Week. what a garment must contain. And when in June 2018, as a The ethereal garment from special guest at Pitti Immagi- which this designer initiated. ne Uomo, his nocturnal per- And from its cradle: London. formance in the Boboli Gar- for uniforms Is it still a creative reference dens became the event of the point? «London has a strength Florence show. in having young creatives, Moncler patron Remo Ruf- strong fashion education. Bril- fini was immediately aware of and work clothes» liant support network that al- this complex and protean cre- lows people to show and de- ative universe. He asked him velop their business. London’s to collaborate as the creator of strengths have always felt like two fragments connected the creative voice». Even bet- with the brand, and in 2018 as ter with Green’s ethereal tou- one of the protagonists in the seen». And, frankly, he could to develop, without having to ch. It is no accident that in first edition of Moncler Ge- truly be called the doyen of follow previously marked 2015, The New York Times de- nius. «In today’s fashion wor- the Moncler «geniuses». «It is traks. Each year, it’s as if it fined him the last of prodigal ld, what significance do ge- stimulating taking on the he- calls itself into question child of fashion. Actually, nius and ingeniousness have? ritage of a brand such as this through the voices of others. Craig wanted to be a sculptor. Precisely a project such as Ge- one. Not just for me. But for This way, its heritage is re- Just what his garments have nius. A dynamic meeting pla- Moncler itself: encourages flected in ways that are always also become. ce where a series of different experimentation and creative different. It offers new pers- Gian Luca Bauzano creative points-of-view can be ideas had maximum freedom pectives». Precisely in har- © RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA Moncler Corriere della Sera Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 17
#MONCLERCRAIGGREEN @craig__green
London has a strength in having young creatives, strong fashion education. Brilliant support network that allows people to show and develop their business. London’s strengths have always felt like the creative voice
The 5 Moncler Craig Green collection during the Moncler Genius event in Milan. On the opposite page the portrait of the designer. Collection available in store from July 18 Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 Corriere della Sera Moncler
I NOVE CREATIVI I RITRATTI Matthew Williams Born in Chicago, he grew up in California and now he lives in Ferrara. «I want to make clothes that last and thus respect the environment. Contemporary means building a bridge between luxury and tech» 6 Moncler 1017 ALYX 9SM
2017, with Alyx: the fol- lowing year the company be- came 1017 Alyx 9SM (1017 is his birth date – October 17 – and 9SM the address of his first atelier at 9 Saint Mark’s Place, New York). From having been the cre- he story of Matthew Wil- ative director for stars of this Tliams, the creative mind for level, the designer clearly felt the brand 1017 Alyx 9sm, was drawn in more than one way tangled up in that of Moncler to the world of music (Wil- even before he started colla- liams creates almost all his borating with the brand. «I designs while listening to was a fan of the brand even music) and social networks. back when I was living in Ca- «I feel a powerful attraction lifornia: but it was only after for the potential of the social I came to Italy that I realized media and I’m very active on that for this country it was Instagram, where I create a actually an institution». Wil- lot of stories. It’s a world liams shares the same values where fashion is contamina- and vision as Remo Ruffini: tion and continuous evolu- like the CEO of Moncler who, tion». in 2013, transformed a brand Following the motto of established as a producer of Moncler Genius «One Hou- sleeping bags in the moun- se, Different Voices» Wil- tain town of Monestier-de- liams has succeeded in brin- Clermont (of which Moncler ging together all the many is the abbreviation) into an threads of his creative vision: international icon, Williams the metropolitan attitude is turned his love of fashion in- reconsidered with warmth to a brand that has anticipa- and natural ease, giving life ted many of the concepts in to down jackets, padded vogue in the fashion system parkas, lightweight windbre- today, such as that of sustai- akers, sleeveless vests and le- nability. ather coats; he manages the «It’s been a fixed idea of task of harmonizing the mine since the beginning: I many different genotypes of started out using a process brands smoothly, creating an called “recovery”, where swa- expression of sustainability tches of unused fabric were with leggings and knits in recycled, cut and woven to- Econyl, recycled nylon made gether with plastic». Then ca- from waste materials like the me materials that used no plastic recovered from the water for the dye process: the oceans. Even his accessories color was applied by means are designed thinking of so- of a procedure called «covera- mething new for Moncler: ge» to save the tons of water that is the origin of the that are usually necessary for backpacks with incorporated this step. «My idea was to vests or caps, and the neo- produce clothes that last and prene boots with rubber so- in that way respect the envi- les. The color palette is ba- ronment», explains the desi- sed on black, gray and white, gner, born in Chicago, who with touches of red and grew up in Pismo Beach, Ca- orange. lifornia. The collaboration with For his collaboration with «High technology Moncler is one of the many Moncler, also, the inspiration Matthew Williams has cho- was to create fashions that sen to cultivate, along with were environmentally frien- capsule collections for Nike dly using natural materials. «I and recovery: and Mackintosh, for which was excited to be asked to he has developed a limited create fashions, for the se- edition using fabrics made cond time, for a brand with by Tessitura Majocchi, a such a strong vocation to company based in the pro- quality and technology: I love my idea vince of Como, famous for working with organic mate- using high-tech machinery rials and I was able to do just and for its commitment to that, creating high perfor- use sustainable materials. «I mance jackets that are warm of sustainability» work with brands that make but super light. To my way of products we could never cre- thinking, contemporary me- ate with our own powers ans looking toward the futu- alone», says Williamson. For re, building a bridge between the future, he dreams of a luxury and technology». less wasteful world, where Now the designer lives in His career as a designer from Chicago, and the part- things are more durable and Ferrara where he manages started at the age of 21, with nerships grew: Alexander stay in our wardrobe for ye- his company 1017 Alyx 9sm an outfit designed for Kanye McQueen, Kim Jones for Dior ars: «A genial person is reco- (the name is a tribute to his West (who wore it to the and Lady Gaga, his ex-fiancé, gnizable even at a glance, daughter, sister of Cairo and Grammys 12 years ago). It for whom he designed the when you get an immediate Valetta). He founded the was the turning point for outfits she wore during her sense of intimate sharing of brand with Luca Benini, who him: the rock star decided to first world tour in 2009. His the most important values». had already founded Slam continue his collaboration first official catwalk in the Michela Proietti Jam. with the young designer Paris fashion week came in © RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA Moncler Corriere della Sera Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 19
#MONCLER1017ALYX9SM @alyxstudio @matthewmwilliams
I was excited to be asked to create fashions for a brand with such a strong vocation to quality and technology: I love working with organic materials and I was able to do just that, creating high performance jackets, warm but super light
Neutral colors for 6 Moncler 1017 Alyx 9sm collection by Matthew Williams during the Moncler Genius event in Milan. On the opposite page the portrait of the designer. Collection available in store from December 20 Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 Corriere della Sera Moncler
THE NINE DESIGNERS ITHE PORTRAITS Hiroshi Fujiwara Record producer and designer, he is the creator of the 7 Moncler Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara. «Today, people wear only practical, comfortable clothing, both on the street and at concerts. How boring»
«There are a lot of ways to fluential friends, like Vivien- dress. For example, I like to ne Westwood, Malcolm buy new things and put them McLaren, the manager of the away for a few years, then Sex Pistols, and Shawn Stüs- take them out again to com- sy, he contributed to brin- bine the old and the new». ging to the Tokyo youth sce- Hiroshi Fujiwara’s take on ne punk and hip hop styles fashion today. This Japanese that did away with conserva- musician, record producer tive tastes. and designer has been con- Unquestionably, music firmed by Remo Ruffini for moulded the designer. But Moncler Genius 2020. today, things have changed, His Moncler Fragment Hi- the connection between mu- roshi Fujiwara is part of the sic and fashion is becoming collective project presented looser. «In the ’70s and ’80s, during Milan Fashion Week if you wanted to go to a punk (Genius garments will be on concert, you had to wear a sale with monthly launchin- uniform if you didn’t want to gs, starting in March). be beaten up... Today, people Born in 1964 in Mie, «whi- wear practical, comfortable ch is basically rural», at 18 he clothing, both on the street moved to Tokyo «because if and at concerts». Something you want to do something in this designer DJ finds «a bit fashion, it’s the place to be». boring». «It’s only natural, He made a name for himself minority tribes no longer in street fashion which he exist. My collection attempts combined with hip hop, a to unite once again these two musical genre he discovered creative forces», he stresses. during his trips to New York And so the covers of Kool & and which he helped make the Gang, a US R&B and funk popular in Tokyo as a DJ. group from the ’60s and ’70s Fujiwara is a genius of of Wild and Peaceful, repro- console remix, a genre he al- duced on T-shirts and spring so experiments with in jackets, including in bright fashion and which esta- colours like prune and mu- blished him as a pillar of stard. street style globally. And now The collaboration conti- it is Italy that is inspiring nues with the Pokémon for him. the images in black and whi- What is the thing you te on the imposing down jac- liked most about this kets, as well as the tees, that project? play with the contrast betwe- «The excellent Moncler te- en glossy and matte. Comple- am. It is unified and works ting the collection are the le- hard», says this designer ather jacket created together who is parsimonious with with Lewis Leather and the his words. He tells us that the custom Converse trainers. inspiration for this collection What is the newest as- «was born by combining the pect in fashion? technology of the Remo Ruf- The Japanese «I would say materials, fini brand with ideas that al- current innovation is very in- so came from my archives». teresting, even if sometimes How do you explain the fashion would not have that success of the down jacket Remix Guru much need for it». that seemed on its way out But in terms of the Mon- and, instead, has been re- cler Fragment project, even a born more beautiful than purist like Fujiwara admits ever and even wooed by all that it is the result of the luxury brands? «In music combination of his archive «For the everyday use you and the technology of the Ita- make of it and because it’s lian brand. fine for any occasion», an- You have been called a li- swers the pragmatic Fujiwa- as in fashion» ving Internet because of ra. your ability to channel and According to Remo Ruffi- transfer information and ni, «fashion needs to beco- trends. How do you, me more collaborative. If Fujiwara, see social media? you remain in your own «I think they are very im- exclusive field, you’re not there’s an opportunity, I’ll do tion well before the Internet. portant and cannot be igno- relevant enough in this mo- it. In the meantime, I like the In the early 1980s, this red. However, my inspiration ment». Do you agree? idea of having my own instal- already-legendary designer still arrives from the street, «I concentrated on my vi- lation and sharing an atmo- and musician began to tran- from the people I meet, from sion of a down jacket and sphere with other creatives sfer clothes, records (and sty- the films I see and the music nylon fabric. The idea of col- during the Moncler Genius le) from London and New I listen to. I’m on Instagram, laborating with a designer to 2020 event in Milan». York to Ura-Harajuku, acting but I don’t follow anyone». create something together Hiroshi Fujiwara worked as a bridge for intercultural Maria Teresa Veneziani doesn’t bother me, and if with the concept of connec- exchange. Supported by in- © RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA Moncler Corriere della Sera Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 21
#MONCLERFRAGMENT @fujiwarahiroshi
I concentrated on my vision of a down jacket and nylon fabric. I like the idea of having my own installation and sharing an atmosphere with other creatives during the Moncler Genius 2020 event in Milan
The 7 Moncler Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara collection during the Moncler Genius event in Milan. On the opposite page the portrait of the designer. Collection available in store from June 22 Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 Corriere della Sera Moncler
THE NINE DESIGNERS THE PORTRAITS Richard Quinn 8 Moncler Richard Quinn is the collection created by the British stylist who even had Queen Elizabeth sitting in the front row at his show. «Taking part in Genius was an electrifying experience»
The stylist also brought his couture volumes and his «print-centric» flair, as the British press defined Quinn’s creativity, to his second per- formance in the Genius Project. «I began by thinking particularly about the volu- he new-generation stylist’s mes of the Sixties, but revi- Tcreativity took the catwalks by ved in a contemporary key. surprise right from the start, This is a crossover from my playing on a contemporary re- collection. Floral prints, re- interpretation of the couture interpreted also in paler sha- elegance of the Fifties and des». And of his Genius col- Sixties. In turn, British stylist lection, he particularly loves a Richard Quinn received an total black jacket, ça va sans even bigger surprise: Queen dire, also with a floral print. Elizabeth II was guest of ho- Flowers, nature. And this nour at his show, sitting in takes us right into the hot the front row next to Anna topics of climate change and Wintour, editor in chief of Vo- sustainability. Hot and fun- gue America. «When I saw damental topics, particularly her enter the room, sit down for the fashion system. «We among the guests, and when can no longer avoid paying she awarded me the prize at full attention to these issues. the end of the show, it was a I am very careful about how really funny moment». This is and where my collections are how Quinn recalls the mo- made. Produced in Europe, ment the Queen handed him and in particular in the Uni- the first Queen Elizabeth II ted Kingdom. Starting with Award for British Design, after the fabrics. And the people I his début show at London work with have to share my Fashion Week 2018. approach. I only want to In the same year, the stylist work with people who agree won another prestigious with my way of tackling the award, celebrated at the problem». Oscars of British fashion and Another byword is unique- winning the British Emerging ness: unique garments, a uni- Talent award for women’s que style. Or, as the British fashion. Made in London, would say, «iconic». «The class of 1990, graduating from Moncler Genius collections Saint Martins: you can’t get are linked to this concept. more British talent than that. These exclusive pieces have a «London really stimulates cre- contemporary appeal. And ativity. You can never tell what yet at the same time they are will happen in the style and able to be timeless, which gi- trend field, as things develop «London is ves them a highly individual and time passes. Quite the op- character». And if we look posite. Every season, you have beyond this Genius loci? to learn a new gameplay. The «Every stylists’ ability to cu- London catwalks have always my ideal city, stomise a pair of jeans as an reflected not only the city but accessory. This means that also social change». what you create becomes so- And of course, someone mething iconic». Is this the like Quinn just had to fall un- style of Queen Elizabeth II? der Moncler’s radar, involving every season it’s «Definitely. She has a very him for the second time run- clear sense of what style is, of ning in the Genius Project. what her own style is: her «An electrifying experience. monochromatic outfits, her The free rein every creative a new gameplay» inseparable square handbags, person involved in the project make her unique». has is extraordinary. With this Individuality in the social innovative platform, you can media era. Can the two co- show off and tell your perso- exist? «Platforms like Insta- nal way of creating in a very gram are essential for com- unconventional manner. Dif- oney’s brunette wife Amal is essential version: she arrived municating. Being a means ferent stylists, with very just one of the people who in London for the Fashion that, by definition, is very “vi- strong different viewpoints, know this very well: she tur- Awards 2018 (the same edi- sual”, they inspire originality. all work together». ned up at the Met Gala 2018 tion Quinn won an award at) Posting only what is worth Quinn’s viewpoint comes in wearing the London stylist’s wearing an asymmetrical mo- being seen by everyone. That the shape of strong, bright co- flower print dress with a del, again with floral prints, is a challenge for any creative lours and use of floral prints train. And the blonde actress but with softer colour shades person». that are the distinguishing fe- Naomi Watts followed her and covered in Swarovski cry- Gian Luca Bauzano atures of his style. George Clo- example, though with a more stals. © RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA Moncler Corriere della Sera Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 23
#MONCLERRICHARDQUINN @richardquinn
Platforms like Instagram are essential for communicating. Being a means that, by definition, is very «visual», they inspire originality. Posting only what is worth being seen by everyone. That is a challenge for any creative person
Print & mix of materials: the 8 Moncler Richard Quinn collection during the Moncler Genius event in Milan. On the opposite page the portrait of the designer. Collection available in store from April 24 Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 Corriere della Sera Moncler
LIFESTYLE #MONCLERRIMOWA @rimowa
Moncler and Rimowa together experiment new technologies to create products that invite travellers to send their own thoughts in real time. Alexandre Arnault: «We share the use of iconic materials» e bought his first Rimowa mo- lding history over the genera- Hre than 10 years ago at Le Bon tions». Marché in Paris, and never Why has Rimowa become imagined that one day he the most sought-after sui- would become the brand’s And now suitcases tcase? CEO. Alexandre Arnault, 27 ye- «We don’t consider our sui- ars old, son of LVMH’s CEO tcases to be the most sought- Bernard Arnault, who bought after, we believe that our effor- the luxury luggage brand in ts to create the most modern 2016, refers to Rimowa’s colla- brand for discerning travellers borations as «cultural conver- send messages have only just begun. Also, I sations». «They allow us to don’t think our customers see experiment and share new te- Rimowa as merely a suitcase: chniques, innovations and our qualified customer service projects with creative people and our innovative mentality from all over the world and How? «Durability and lightness and built to last». are what make the difference». from different sectors», Ar- «Reflection is a polished are the heart of our business. The characteristics of the When did the suitcase be- nault explains. «But above all aluminium case incorporating In today’s hyper-mobile world ideal suitcase. come a luxury item? they allow us to connect more a detachable LED screen on where people travel more «It’s a simple combination. «The more you travel, the easily with a younger audience the outside that displays stic- than ever before, our custo- Robust design, lightweight, te- more you want your luggage to and with people who may not ker-style messages in red capi- mers expect practicality. This chnically innovative and sophi- reflect who you are and the know us». tal letters: travellers can upda- means creating technically in- sticated. But that’s the easy type of travel experience you The brand, founded in Colo- te and customise the text di- novative products that are part: the difficult part is sup- want to have. Suitcases have gne, Germany, in 1898, and splayed on the case’s pro- easy to handle, lightweight porting our credibility and bui- always held a lot of charm for whose aluminium suitcases grammable LED screen». seasoned travellers, and Ri- have become iconic, is conti- Social media language is mowa has been meeting their nuously evolving: Dieter Mors- brought to a real dimen- needs for over 120 years. Now zeck, the company’s third ge- sion, giving people the op- the challenge is to exceed the neration and still at its helm portunity to communicate expectations of today’s travel- alongside Arnault, launched and connect to the people lers». the ultra-light polycarbonate around them. Which kind of travellers version in 2000. And to cele- «Travel is often a time choose Rimowa? brate the brand’s 80th anniver- when we enjoy sharing. Ra- «More than a suitcase for sary, the suitcases were re-de- ther than posting something those who want to see the signed by famous people, in- to a faceless digital audience, world, it is a tool for those cluding stylist Karl Lagerfeld we can send a message to the who want to change it». and film director David Fin- person opposite». What is never missing cher. What similarities are the- from your suitcase? Today, the Moncler-Ri- re between down jackets «Running shoes!» mowa Reflection project and suitcases? You wear Moncler, do you brings an innovative techno- «Rimowa and Moncler both have a favourite item? logical approach and a new use iconic materials: alumi- «For many years, long befo- way of managing digital nium and polycarbonate for re I met Remo Ruffini. It all communication. us, luxury down jackets for started with skiing, and then a «Both brands have combi- Moncler. Ultimately, we both more classic down jacket, and ned their know-how to create use high-quality materials that now I enjoy wearing several of the Reflection suitcase, with a help people to move comfor- the collection’s pieces. And LED screen that travellers can tably around the world». very soon I’ll have a new sui- use to send their thoughts in Lightness is a common fe- tcase». real time when they are on the ature of both Moncler and road, using a customised Rimowa: why is it important Michela Proietti app». to be «solid» yet light? © RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA Moncler Corriere della Sera Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 25
#MONCLERDOGS #MONCLERMATE @poldodogcouture @mate.bike Poldo Dog Couture Mate.Bike Space-age ponchos from The electric two-wheeler the animal-loving designers More powerful than ever Riccardo Gardoni and Maurizio Azzimonti: Partnership to produce a folding bicycle «Moncler is our ideal partner» with an Italian logo and a Danish soul
he stroke of «genius» was introdu- are also both very ironic when it comes ore than just parkas and down jac- change. Moncler is making great strides Tcing dog accessories to luxury bouti- to presenting our collections». Mkets. Moncler Genius 2020 also tra- in terms of sustainability, and is bran- ques. Poldo Dog Couture, a made-in- Last year, the creative duo dipped vels on two wheels. Having set his ching out into new areas. We are con- Italy brand and the brainchild of Ric- into the Moncler archives, reinterpre- sights on new terrain, Remo Ruffini vinced that by making products intere- cardo Gardoni and Maurizio Azzi- ting classic items such as sleeveless ve- has entered into a collaboration with sting and desirable, we can pave the monti, two Milanese friends who sts, rain jackets, glossy nylon down jac- Mate.bike, the folding electric bike way for behavioural change. We want share a passion for dachshunds and kets – available in six different sizes – project launched by siblings Chri- people to see the e-bike not just as the other four-legged friends, signs a and even the knit-effect printed gilet, stian Adel Michael and Julie Kron- practical, green, or healthy-living solu- new collaboration with Moncler. evocative of typical winter jumpers. The strøm Carton in Copenaghen in 2016, tion, but as an expression of themsel- The four dogs «in the family» — items in the 2019-2020 collection, me- which became an instant hit on In- ves, as part of their identity — Julie dachshunds Poldo and Camillo, Gre- anwhile, draw inspiration from the diegogo, generating impressive sales. intervenes —. Our hope is that a stylish at Dane Brutus and French bulldogs space-age world of the Sixties and the The Danish managers explain the e-bike will convince more people to Ercole and Happy — are the inspira- spacecraft launched into orbit. «We de- collaboration with the Italian brand: abandon their cars, thus accelerating tion behind a couture line for dogs, veloped rainproof ponchos in fluore- «Mate.bike and Moncler both serve the green revolution». the focus of a style revolution in re- scent and foil-effect silver, in a handy extreme needs in the context of day- What are the features of Moncler format that folds up like a bag». The Mate.bike? sustainability line features a recycled «It is the most powerful model yet. It nylon down jacket, while the mini-me features a customised calibrated 1000W range includes a camouflage down jac- motor, with pedal-assist functionality ket, available in the main Moncler col- suited to hills and mountains. Speed lection, in a four-legged version produ- will be limited based on local regula- ced by Poldo Couture. tions, but a code can be entered, when Underpinning the venture is a strong on private property and in recreational animal-activist philosophy, which has spaces, to unlock the full potential of seen the entrepreneur-stylists sup- the Mate, which can reach nearly 50 plying the entire Bologna State Police km/h. We will also release a 250 W dog unit with down jackets in all sizes version for Europe. The e-bike features for dogs who spend the night out in global connectivity (integrated SIM the cold. They also support and encou- card) that, as well as enabling updates, rage the fostering of abandoned dogs. also serves an anti-theft function. We Social media is very important, and the can also provide a remote monitoring internet loves Poldo: much is known service and see if the bike requires sup- cent years. Sweaters, coats and rain- about his life, but the two creatives to-day urban life. The Moncler brand port». proof ponchos have all become part promise to produce more content to has been renowned for its exclusive Once again, the new Mate X was de- and parcel of the canine world, at satisfy their followers’ curiosity. clothing for 70 years, and Mate.bike veloped through crowdfunding, brin- least as common as collars and le- «Storytelling is a fundamental part of is building up a similar reputation in ging in an astronomical $13,381,963. ashes. The difference here, compa- the project: we are working on a social the bicycle industry: we make a per- «Crowdfunding is a tool that helps en- red to what was already on the media story that shows a typical day in fect couple», declares Christian Adel trepreneurs and creative types reach a market, is quality. the life of Poldo, from getting up, to a Michael. The Moncler logo is blazo- global audience for their ideas — ex- «We decided to create a luxury ride in the Mini (a collaboration with ned on one side of the frame. «We plains Julie —. This sort of funding is product, inspired by our own needs: the car company is on the cards), and saw an opportunity to create the ulti- gaining popularity all over the world: it we could never find what we were an afternoon nap». The Moncler Ge- mate Mate X model, with significant can allow start-ups with limited liquidi- looking for in the pet shops, and so nius launch will see Poldo trying his performance enhancements compa- ty at the beginning to avoid getting lo- we set about designing what we hand as a filmmaker, wearing a GoPro red to the previous model. It can ans from banks or other institutions, would like to buy», explained Mauri- camera on his head: as always, the bring you where no other electric while enabling invaluable input from zio Azzimonti, who has worked as a brand’s canine friends will be invited to bike has gone before. This narrative customers (backers) during the deve- window creative director for Moncler the launch. «Nobody ever thought of matches the Moncler Genius DNA lopment phase. I believe we will see for 15 years. Being «in-house» alrea- putting a dog at the centre of the com- perfectly, inspiring the concept of constant growth over the next few years dy made the collaboration easy. munications side of things: weren’t we Mate, Mountain & Moncler». in what is already a multi-billion dollar «Moncler was our ideal partner, be- clever?». What message do you want to industry». cause it shares our values: from pro- M. Pro. convey? Maria Teresa Veneziani duct excellence to sustainability. We © RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA «Design influences desirability and © RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA 26 Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 Corriere della Sera Moncler
LOCATION PERFORMANCE
2018
IPalazzo delle Scintille was the location chosen for the debut of Moncler Genius in 2018. The Moncler Genius Building was presented there for the first time on the evening of February 20, during the opening of the Milan Fashion Week. Real and virtual works moving in unison: an idea that became a location that invited actions of communication to become, at last, an actual physical universe. It was the first appearance of the building that contained different aesthetic visions and ways of thinking. On September 19, another step forward: from its location at via Orobia 15, Moncler Genius developed and completed the offering of the Moncler Genius Building with «The Next Chapter»: new collections that completed the previous ones to cover the entire year with a continuous program that, maintaining the uniqueness and legacy of the brand, contributed to the new vision of Moncler. A single maison that speaks to the consumer with different voices, pioneering a novel, contemporary strategy. Moncler Corriere della Sera Sabato 22 Febbraio 2020 27
2019
Genius also means Genius loci: care for and attention to the city’s cultural heritage. So, with the support of the City of Milan, Moncler contributed to the redevelopment project for Magazzini Raccordati at via Ferrante Aporti 9, near the main railroad station, and presented its collections there in February 2019, hosting an event attended by over ten thousand people. «It always brings us great satisfaction to see such effective collaboration between public and private sectors — the Mayor of Milan, Giuseppe Sala, observed at the time —. When the latter is at the service of the city, the benefits for the residents and for the local area are guaranteed. That is why I am grateful to Moncler: the choice of Magazzini Raccordati as the location for this event, during the long- awaited Fashion Week, and the redevelopment of the area are a concrete response to our plans for Milan».
Genius Paper Direttore: Luciano Fontana Vicedirettore vicario: Barbara Stefanelli Vicedirettori: Daniele Manca Venanzio Postiglione Giampaolo Tucci A cura della Redazione Liberi Tutti
Traduzione dall’italiano all’inglese studio Brindani
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