May-June 1984 $2.00

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- I +QP May-June 1984 George Nigh, [, Governor Vol. 34, No. 3 \- 5 I Three itineraries for exploring the I COVER 10 Sooner State this summer--cityside, SAWDUST MEMORIES lakeside, countryside. From broadax to chain saw and skid mule to tractor, for more than 75 years the Fugate family has cawed a living from southeastern forests.

15 They were a strange, REBA people, the people who built the Spiro Mounds and then disappeared forever. A lot of country music fans are pretty sure Reba McEntire's the reason God made 32 Water spills through the Chockie, Oklahoma. OKLAHOMA PORTFOLIO I valley of Billy Creek in the I Ouachita National Forest. Visions of McCurtain County by 1 Photograph by David photographer Kym Wilson. I Fitzgerald. Inside front cover. I Redbud reflected in a still pool, 20 near Moon, Oklahoma. THE LURE OF FISHING 38 I Photograph by Kym Wilson. SOUTHEASTERN OKLAHOMA 1 Back cower. Thirty pounds of 21 (OR SO) REASONS TO HEAD SOUTHEAST I catfish, caught by James Peek in The when, where and with what of a creek near the McCurtain fishing in Little Dixie. Choctaw celebrations. Scenery. Hang County Wilderness Area. gliding. Scenery. Civil War battle sites. Photograph by Kym Wilson. Scenery. Sawmill tours. Scenery. (You get the idea.) FEATURES 1A DEPARTMENTS THE HOUSE THAT PETER Today in Oklahoma ...... 4 CONSER BUILT Books ...... 4 Peter Conser was a lighthorseman in Letters ...... 5 the days of the Choctaw Nation. The man Oklahoma Omnibus: Bald Cypress ...... 25 and the nation he lived in are gone, On to Oklahoma ...... 45 but his home still stands. Entertainment Calendar ...... 46

Published by the Oklahoma Tourism and Recreation Department Okhhoma TODAY (ISSN 0030-1892) is published Sue Carter, Editor Abe L. Hesser, Exemcioe Director bi-monthly, in January, March, May, July, Sep- Kate Jones, Managing Editor Tom Creider, Planning d Development tember and November. Subscription prices: $101 Pat Shaner Laquer, Art Director Eugene Dilbeck, Marketing Setvices yr. in the U.S.; $13 ovlrseas. Copyright 1984 by 0hMoma.TODAY magazine, 215 NE 28th, P.O. Kevin Norman, Marketing Ken Flaming, Lodges Box 53384, Okiahoma City, OK 73152. 695) Karen Springer, Subscription Services N. Clay McDermeit, Parks 521-2496. i!Y. Geri Stevens, Accountant Chuck Woolsey, Administtaton Eydie Youngblood, Events Calendar .' Tourism and Recreation Commission Printed at PennWell Publishing Co., Tulsa Celia Rosenberger, Chiman Jarrell L. Jennings Second-class postage paid at Oklahoma City. Vice Chaitman Bob Hinton, Jim Pate ' Postmaster: Send address changes to Oklahoma James Durham, Semfaty W. R. "Dick" Stubbs ' ,, TODAY Circulation, P.O. Box 53384, Oklahoma R. A. "Bob" Hodder . r "7~lla ~ilcox City, OK 73152.

May-June '84 3 nating animals will soon be spreading out in a 2.5-acre open area with more than 100 trees, free-flowing waterfalls, a pond and natural rock ledges. Visitors will be able to view the primates as they would be seen in the wild, without buildings or other man-made obstructions. The ani- mals will make "the great escape" as soon as funds for the $2 million facility have been raised by the Oklahoma Zoo- logical Society. Mail donations to P.O. outheastern Oklahoma is pine-cov- all the folks about roads to travel and Box 18424, Oklahoma City, OK 73154. S ered mountains, free flowing, fish- interesting events and things to see in +Oklahoma TODAYs transition from four filled streams, the smell of fresh-cut southeastern Oklahoma, she had trouble to six issues a year is a little confusing for lumber from small and large lumber stopping long enough to write. Although everyone. And Karen Springer, who mills and mist rising from dammed-up she lists 21 places to go, and then some, works hard at keeping our subscriptions reservoirs. The area is famous for dog- beginning on page 38, she says there are straight, has asked me to explain that our wood and redbud scenic drives earlier in plenty more, and she's ready to continue Winter issue was the first for 1984, the the spring and foliage tours in the fall. Its exploring. next was MarcidApril, and the third is history is interwoven with that of the +As a special insert to this issue, you'll this MayIJune issue. The JulyIAugust, Choctaw and Chickasaw Indians. find three different vacations for you to SeptemberIOctober and NovemberlDe- This issue of Oklahoma TODAY fo- consider this summer. One is for those cember issues round out the year. Okh- cuses on southeastern Oklahoma and who enjoy the excitement of a big city, Aoma TODAY didn't publish an issue samples some of its scenic beauty, its one is for those interested in history, and dated JanuaryIFebruary. So please don't intriguing history and its family one is a lake holiday in south-central give Karen a hard time-she'll make traditions. Oklahoma. So whether you prefer shop- sure you get all six issues.--Sue Carter Many families who have lived in the ping, water skiing or hunting for desert- same area for several generations main- ed gold mines, the writers have pulled tain close ties among uncles, aunts and together all kinds of activities in each cousins, all of whom may be involved in area, and we hope you have fun check- the same family business. A tradition ing them all out. The supplement is among some of the families is to sing designed to be pulled out and taken country and Western music, and at least along with you. Oklahoma Seminoles, Medicines, one well-known singer, Reba McEntire, +Several readers have mentioned enjoy- Magic and Religion; by James H. How- still lives there. ing the story on Indian flutes m the ard, with Willie Lena; Oklahoma Univer- Kathryn Jenson, who teaches business MarchIApril issue. Doc Tate Neva sity Press, Norman; $24.95. One fasci- communications at the University of Quaya, who was featured in the article, nating aspect of life in Oklahoma is its Oklahoma, is a longtime admirer of and his son, Edmond Neva Quaya, will sense of parallel lives-f echoes from Reba. Kathryn grew up in McAlester. be exhibiting at least a dozen flutes ancient cultures existing alongside An- Reba lives "just down the road" from they've made, at The Galleria in Nor- glo Saxon reality. This book on the there on a ranch near Chockie when she man June 4-30. state's Seminole population is proof of isn't recording or singing in Las Vegas or W The Oklahoma City Advertising Club just how rich those parallel cultures are. Nashville. Kathryn realized a longtime has awarded Oklahoma TODAY an Howard used many sources in this ambition to meet Reba when she inter- "Addy" for our 1984 scenic appointment study of the tribe's medicine, magic viewed her for the story that begins on calendar and an "Addy" Merit Award for and religious customs, but his main one page 15. Those who have enjoyed Re- the Winter 1983 issue. The calendar will was Willie Lena, a Seminole leader ba's hit records will have a chance to hear move into five- state competition in its who now lives in Wewoka. Born in her sing in person at 8 p.m. May 24 in category. (By the way, we still have cal- 1912, Lena was raised by his ultra- the Atoka High School football stadium. endars for sale at $2.95 plus $1 for post- conservative grandparents, who shield- Reba hasn't forgotten the home folks age and handling.) ed him as much as possible from the and is singing at a benefit for the Atoka $w The Oklahoma City Zoo, one of the white world, and he became a reposi- County Extension Service. nation's largest, is planning a new home tory of traditions and beliefs of his W Oklahoma TODAYs managing editor, for its gorillas and orangutans. Now people. Today he holds the position of Kate Jones, had so much fun talking to cramped in jail-like facilities, these fasci- chief of Tullahassee town.

4 Oklahoma TODAY In his introduction, Howard points volume of Cimamn Family Legends, and I read Roy Meador's article about T out that Lena has served as a bridge he finished it. From there, he began to Models and would caution anyone about between the Seminole and white reprint or start new titles." following cranking instructions as written worlds, learning English against his The company now offers 13 works- by Mr. Meador. The spark should be grandparents' wishes, and becoming a all but one about Oklahoma. (The other retarded, not advanced, for cranking. "culture broker," less close-mouthed is a reprint of a manual of "formulas, Advancing the spark put the Ford in an than his fellow traditionalists. He has recipes, methods and secret processes" advantageous position, and she usually made his peace with both worlds, and put out by Popular Medania in 1932.) responded by what was called kicking. carries out his duties as town chief from Their big sellers right now are Pirtol Pete Many who made the mistake of not re- his home, where he also produces tradi- and a novel, Come in 23, House by Helen tarding the spark before cranking ended tional Seminole craftwork. Dutton Russell. up with a broken wrist and maybe a Together, Howard and Lena present Books in the works include an Okla- thumb, too. a view of the tribe invisible to white homa history text for ninth graders, his- Disregarding the cranking instruc- eyes. The book opens with a biographi- tories of Woodward and Carney, a tions, I thought it was a very good cal sketch of Lena and a short historical reprint of a work on Cushing and a book article. treatment of the Seminoles. on Guthrie. G. L. Davidson The rest is divided into chapters that A new catalog should be out by now. Houston, TX cover traditional Seminole remedies- It lists all the Evans publications, plus herbal and non-herbal; magic and titles they distribute for EakindNortex witchcraft; ceremonies like the Green Press in Austin, including Glenn Shir- The author of "Tin Lizzy Turns 75" Corn Ceremony and nighttime dances; ley's Red Y6terday.r. To receive a catalog did a remarkable job of reporting, but he and mortuary practices. Another chap- or ask about ordering any title the com- left out the most important fact: H. Ford ter, "The Seminole World," describes pany carries, write P.O. Box 520, Per- was the first man in the nation to pay the "distinctively Indian" aspects of kins, OK 74059, or call Evans' toll-free employees $5 per day. the lives of the state's Seminoles. The number, 1-800-522-4677. 1am 83 years old. I started to work at entire book is illustrated with Willie the 900 W. Main Ford place in 1918. H. Lena's drawings and watercolors. C. Doss was the manager, W. H. Chase was the assistant manager, Gene Pipkin Evans Publications was the superintendent, Ben Torees was Everyone's heard of the University of LErnassembly-line foreman, and I was the Oklahoma Press, and the publications of inspector of the loading dock after the the Oklahoma Historical Society. But We wish to congratulate you and your "T" models were loaded into box cars. there are also smaller presses dotted staff on the new Oklahoma TODAY-the D. T. Phillips around the state that serve up Oklaho- format, type of material and photo- Oklahoma City miana each season. graphs, which are superb. I do not see Consider Evans Publications of Per- any reason why it shouldn't be a success. kins. Since 1978, Bob Evans, his wife, We enjoyed your '"Tin Lizzie" and Just a line to tell you I thought the Yvonne, and their staff have brought out "Tom Mix" articles in the MarcWApril MarcWApril issue was an outstanding titles that cover local history (Cimamn issue. We had a 1912 Model T Ford, edition, and I especially appreciated the Family Legends), (Stillwater: WhOkhho- which I learned to drive on my own; my David Fitzgerald scenic works. His ma Began); biography (Milton W. Reyn- parents never learned to drive. An out- "Quartz Mountain State Park" is a real olds' Kicking Bird and the Birtlrr of standing trip I remember was from Tulsa masterpiece, and I would like to see OkMoma and a reprint of Frank Eaton's to Joplin, Missouri, in 1912. I noticed in more panoramic views of other areas in Pktol Pete: Veteran of ofe OM W6t); Lu the "Tin Lizzie" article that the Geroni- the state displayed with the same com- Celia Wise's Oklb/roma Fim Lad%; and mo car was mentioned but not the Tulsa position and quality. even a cookbook-reprints of articles on Four, which was a short-lived product. I might say here that I am an Oklaho- area cooks from the PerRins Journal. LeRoy Thomas man by birth, born in Enid in '21 and According to Steven Gragert, Evans Escondido, California brought back to St. Louis when only two Publications' marketing manager, Bob years old. But occasionally I head my Evans got into book publishing some- "Tin Lizzie" Ford LTD down the old what by accident. "He sort of backed I have been interested in cars all my Osage trail (1-44) to visit my home state into it," Gragert says, "by buying the life. I am now retired after a career as a of Oklahoma. Perkins paper. The former owners had mechanic and 26% years with General Fred Wirth been putting together a book, the first Motors. St. Louis

May-June '84 5 6 Oklahoma TODAY HODGEN

e wasn't known as a great leader of his people or acclaimed for his artistic talents. Neither was he a decorated military man or a famous scientist or educator. Yet each year between 7,000 and 9,000 people visit Peter Conser's home, just west of Hodgen in LeFlore County. A respectable amount of interest for a home built by a man who was known only as a good husband, father, neighbor, citizen and friend.

hat sets Peter Conser, too, burned, Conser began the struc- seemingly like so many oth- ture that stands today. wer men of his time, apart When Amy died, leaving Conser from the rest? Enough apart to justify with a young daughter, he married a his home being listed on the National second time, to Martha Jane Smith. Register of Historic Places and re- Four more girls and four boys were stored and opened by the Oklahoma born, the last son dying with his Historical Society? mother in childbirth. Conser married It wasn't so much who he was as again, to Mary Ann Holson. They had what he did, in addition to his occu- no children. pations as a rural landowner, farmer The house where Conser raised his and sometime storekeeper. Conser, family is not a mansion as are many son of a Choctaw mother and French homes open to the public. It is an father, was a member of the Choctaw unpretentious, two-story frame farm- Lighthorse. house, typical of its time. The Lighthorse was a mounted One reason it was a good subject law-enforcement body for the Indian for restoration was the lack of structur- Nations. Conser served many years as al changes or modernization done to a captain of the Moshulatubbee Dis- the house over the years. For in- trict of the Choctaw Nation, a posi- stance, upstairs, visitors are often puz- tion compared in various writings to zled at a sign on the hallway door being a chief of police or a county leading out to the balcony porch. It sheriff. says "Guest Room," leaving visitors His home, built in 1894, stands as a Coinson apparently left the family to ponder the desirability of being a tribute not only to Conser and the not many years after Peter was born, "guest" in this home, especially in Lighthorsemen of the Choctaw Na- in about 1850 in what is now McCur- the winter. tion but to the Lighthorsemen of all tain County. His mother, Adeline, Further inspection reveals that the the Indian nations, who brought law died of smallpox when Conser was a guest had only to walk around the L- and order to the territory before Okla- boy, and he was left an orphan to look shaped balcony and enter a door to a homa became a state. after himself. bedroom. Although this room shares a Not much has been published The boy liked to visit and play in a common wall with another bedroom, about Conser. His father was named particular spot, covered with huge oak for some reason no connecting door Coinson (T. X., F. X. and T. N. trees, not far from where he lived. He was cut between the two. It would be seem to be authors' favorite choices remembered the place when he re- interesting to know why this arrange- for his first initials). It was said Conser turned to the area following the Civil ment was settled on. changed the spelling of his last name War, and he chose it as his homesite. The Conser house is L-shaped, because the French name was difi- Conser was married by this time to with tall cut-stone chimneys at the cult for him and others to pronounce. Amy Bacon, and they built a log ends of the north and east wings. The It has also been noted by a friend who house on the land. This house burned chimneys are attractively set off by knew him well that ". . .he couldn't in the early 1870s, and another log the bright white of the house's exteri- pronounce Conser very well, either!" house was built. When this house, or walls, the shade Conser liked to

May-June '84 7 HODGEN

Beeast bedmom, downstain, was Conser's own. It sti//t.ontui/rs hir ro~ker,his lit^ kitchen came to the historiral soriety with an antique range. fie table, chain mantel c/ock and his Bib/e, j//ed with fami4 chronology. and many of the utensils also were /dt b~the fa mi!)^. - keep the home during his lifetime. horses used to have the run of the likeable man," so he would no doubt The front of the house has an L- large field across the road to the north approve of the gentleman who has shaped front porch with matching bal- of the house. Since he was the cap- taken his place at the family home as cony porch above. Another large tain, Conser's house was used as a "host." porch is in the back of the house off headquarters for his troop. Curator Bob Crawford and his wife the kitchen. Sometimes a little startling to first- have lived in a modern brick home The house is especially eye-catch- time visitors is the family cemetery, just a few hundred yards from the ing in the spring, summer and early planted with cedars, in the front yard Conser house for six years now. Be- fall. As the visitor rounds a curve on of the house. Family burying grounds fore that, they lived for many years in the gravel road from Hodgen, there near rural homes were common dur- Heavener, just seven miles away. In sits the house, on a rise to the south of ing the years the Consers lived on this addition to being curator for the the road, the white paint gleaming land, and this is an especially attrac- Conser home, Crawford is southeast against the bright green of the hills tive one. regional co-ordinator for the historical and mountains to the south and west. Conser died in 1934, and in 1967 society. The house faces north, and from the house was donated to the histori- As regional co-ordinator, he over- the front porch the land falls gently cal society by a granddaughter, Mrs. sees several other historic sites in his downhill to Conser Creek. As a Lewis Barnes. The house has been part of the state, but Crawford's favor- Lighthorseman, Conser appreciated restored to its 1907 condition. ite place to be is the Conser House. good, well-cared-for horses, and it is Conser has been described by "I guess it's unusual to be able to said that the Lighthorse colts and those who knew him as a "friendly, have a job about which you can say

8 Oklahoma TODAY nal with the family but represent the communig of Hodgm. Sipwi//show

placed on the animal stalls inside and a few other minor things. For the

May-June '84 9 SAWDUST MEMORIES

By Jim Etter Photographs by Jim Argo

here's a certain music in the whir of a south- years," he continues, taking a package of chewing to- eastern Oklahoma sawmill. bacco from his pocket. "When they were hewed they It's there, at least, for the ears of a family lasted longer. Now, they use chemicals." that has a tradition of nearly 80 years of Today, the Fugate business, after both good times carving its living and its lifestyle from the and bad, is still whirring-a sawmill not too unlike the Tforest. family's first one remaining the center of activity at the A family like the Fugates. moderately prosperous Fugate Lumber Co. It's now Ambrose Fugate, a native Missourian handy with an operated by Don and two other of Reuel's sons, plus ax, started it all a few years before statehood by cutting four other family members. and shaping oak crossties for the new MK&T (Katy) Grandpaw Ambrose, a tough man long used to the Railroad line that ran southward through Indian many minor injuries and dangers of his trade, finally fell Territory. victim to a fatal accident more than 50 years ago. He Like other settlers in the timbered hills, he contin- died, when about 60, of lingering injuries suffered ued making his living by harvesting the useful pine and when a load of lumber fell from a tram and crushed his hardwood. He finally bought some land from the Indi- leg. ans, and he and his 7-year-old son, Reuel, were eventu- Reuel died a few years ago at age 82. ally-in about 1918-to start their own sawmill. Don, who's 60, operates the business with younger The "Fugate Sawmill," while one of many in that brothers Ralph and Dale. Others in the operation are time and region, was to outlast many of its neighbors John Fugate, Don's son; Keith Fugate, Dale's son; and become so ingrained in history that Fugate would be Frank Buchanan, Don's ~e-aaw;and 64-year-old Er- the name of a rural community listed on county maps, nest Walthall, a cousin. pointing out the business and cluster of Fugate homes Many things besides crosstie cutting have changed in about nine miles east of Stringtown in Atoka County. the industry since Ambrose came, beginning with the "When Grandpaw Fugate came, ties were hewed by way the trees themselves are cut. The crosscut saw a hand ax. A good broadax man in about 15 minutes eventually gave way to the gasoline-engine chainsaw. could just hew that 7-by-9 tie right out," says Don Ox teams once were used to haul logs from the Fugate, a smile on his face as he sits in an office woods. The oxen later were replaced by horses and adorned with mounted deer heads and fish and several mules, and these later replaced by trucks, the Fugates fiddles hanging here and there on the walls. say. However, "skid mules7'-used to drag logs from "The railroad company wouldn't buy a sawed tie for the cutting site to the trucks-were used until

10 Oklahoma TODAY FUGATE

Above. men ofthe F as~ill. L& m rigit, John Fugate; cousin Ernest term for his task is 'Fling the saw." Above, right. Logs waiting fLthe sm Walthall; Don Fugate; Frank Buchanan; and Raw, Keith and Dale Fugate. T2e Fugates do some logging Iemsekes, on their own 1,0011 ams and on other Above, left. Don Fugate shaqens one of the milfs two sawblades; the OM-time land, and also buy cut timber from private sources.

May-June '84 about 1%0, when they were replaced by the mills still look pretty much the same, Some changes took place in the 1960s tractors. their mechanism slowly pulling the logs that put many small sawmills out of busi- Early sawmills were powered by one by one to the cutting blade, their ness-including the Fugate mill tempo- steam engines, usually shipped in on the power sources have changed, first to gas- rarily. Ralph says federal standards Katy from St. Louis, Ralph says. While oline, then to diesel, he says. regarding smoke (usually from the bum- Who Owns the Trees By John Burwell

ny region relies on its natural resources to thrive. In from Oklahoma's forests is more than 72.8 million cubic feet of southeastern Oklahoma, the gift most in evidence has wood each year. A been timber. From the days of the Choctaw Nation, the Small sawmills and wood-using industries contribute signifi- forest has been a mainstay of the state's rugged hip pocket. cantly to the state's economy, but perhaps more important are The region's people depend on the woodland around them for their contributions on a local level-providing employment, local recreation, clean water, forage, wildlife and, of course, wood. But markets for standing timber and taxes to support local government. the ring of trace chains and the slow buzz of crosscut saws have Today, though, businesses like the Fugates' are harder and harder given way to sophisticated machinery and methods of managing to find. Surveys show a rapid decline in the number of sawmills in and harvesting the forest. A change in terminology reflects the the state over the past 12 years, particularly the number of small change in technology: The business now goes by an industrial- operators (those producing less than 3 million board feet per year). strength title, the "forest products industry." In 1972 there were 103 sawmills counted in the state. By 1975 Three major forest industrieeweyerhauser, Nekoosa Papers the number had dwindled to 83, and at the time of Oklahoma's and Arkansas Kraft Gorp.--own a substantial amount of the com- last survey, in 1978, only 66 sawmills were in operation. mercial forest lands in southeast Oklahoma. Each of these compa- Sawmilling is a tough business in every sense of the word. It nies has a large papermill that draws wood from the region-two in requires keen business sense, an ability to predict or see trends Arkansas and one at Valliant, Oklahoma. Weyerhauser Company's and an optimistic outlook. The manager must know the ins and Valliant plant, which makes the brown "kraft" paper used for outs of a complex lumber market. If the market for lumber is grocery sacks and corrugated boxes, and its Wright City sawmill down, for instance, he needs to be ready to shift production to combine to make McCurtain County one of the top forest-product crossties-r vice versa. And the hardwood market jumps around producing counties in the U.S. like the stock market, changing from week to week. The United States Forest Service is another large landowner, He also has to be enough of a bureaucrat to cope with regula- controlling some 218,800 acres of forest and range land in McCur- tions covering air and water quality. employment, taxation and tain and LeFlore counties. The Ouachita National Forest is man- commerce. On top of all that, he must have the soul of a mechan- aged for a variety of uses, ranging from developed recreation to the ic: A thorough understanding of headrigs, carriages, edgers and production of timber. The bulk of the trees harvested from the other machines used in lumber production is required to stay "up national forest go to smaller sawmill operators in both Oklahoma and running" and avoid costly down time. and Arkansas. In short, the operator of a small to medium-sized sawmill must By far the largest owners of southeastern Oklahoma forestland, be a well-rounded businessman, with an affinity for hard work and however, are the small private a lore of his trade. In light of M~,,I~once mwed on whm hirsmdusr mounruins gm, roo large. roduy, who the Fugate se// the dust, mkfy to hone-mnm and nuneqmen. today's competitive market- lectivelv control some 56 ~er- / lace and technoloeic- ad- cent of the area's 3.1 million vances by major sawmilling acres of commercial forestland. enterprises, there is little won- From these ownerships, and , der the number of small saw- from public lands, flows most mills is decreasing. of the raw material that keeps Yet, through all the bad the saws whirring in smaller times and all the good, there is sawmills, like the Fugates'. little doubt that there will al- The forest products industry ways be a few meeting the ranks ninth among all Oklaho- challenge, who long for the ma's industries in terms of em- ringing sound of a circle saw as ployment, with an annual it carves a once-mighty oak payroll of more than $91 mil- , into "green" lumber, and who lion. Value added to the econ- love the sweet musty smell of omy is over $195 million sawdust in the air-people annually. Total production with sawmilling in their blood.

John Burwe// is a staff forater for he Foratry Division of the ORIahoma Department of Agngnm/hlre.

12 Oklahoma TODAY FUGATE

Above. &mat ~a/i%a//andDonFugate cut n'mber inm 8 x 8 logs for log-cabin Don Fugate in the company's mn'c ofice. Above. right. POSLY,stral& from the hma-fht on thm sida, rounded on one. i?e Fugates rut around 7,000 to treatment piant. fi?e plant pressure-treats wood produrrs with chemicak and oil 8,000 board feat a day; a rea//y big sawmi// may handfe 100,UtW. Above, lef. in order to guard them againct mt nnd tmites).

May-June '84 FUGATE

ing of bark, slabs and sawdust) brought tion-needed to power the wood-treat- But some of them left impressive about modifications that some compa- ment operation. But, says Don, it's also memories. nies couldn't afford. "an antique." It was built in the 1920s, "There used to be some poor, simple But for a time before that, the small when it represented a popular power and tough people here," Don says. "I family sawmills were scattered about the source for municipalities, and the Fu- remember one ol' boy-I better not give wooded regions, the harvesting of wood gates bought it from the town of Spiro his name-he went barefooted all the being as common as cotton farming in about 25 years ago. Don remembers time, and when he rolled a cigarette he'd other areas. when he and others proudly went to just lift his foot up and strike the match "In this country back then, it was ei- Spiro to get their new tool, which weighs on the bottom of it. ther sawmillin' or moonshinin'," says somewhere between 15 and 20 tons. It "And dances. Everybody'd put on Ralph, grinning and speaking above the took two big trucks to haul the disman- their good shoes and play them fiddles whine of the saw several yards away tled engine and kept them busy for two and pick them guitars and drink that where the others are working. days and nights. white lighu~in'whiskey and have a good Many sawmillers and mill workers, of- Like many others in rural areas, the time. ten poor, left little behind when they Fugates worked hard at their own busi- ''The girls were just as pretty then as quit and left. Sometimes fire bricks, ness and other jobs to weather the Great they are now-they just didn't have as pieces of iron where a blacksmith shop Depression in the 1930s, and for several nice of clothes." stood and perhaps the sunken remains of years lived and worked without electric- There was plenty of laughter over a cellar still tell where a family once ity and public water supplies. simple things, too, laughter that still ech- worked and lived. Their business suffered a major set- oes in the hills occasionally. The com- There have been many change+pos- back when, while temporarily cutting munity was once also called "Greezy itive ones and setbacks, too-within the and milling timber in New Mexico about Bend," Ralph says, and the name arose Fugate operation itself. 30 years ago, their sawmill burned up. from a dance at someone's house. The business has grown to fill about a "When we got back here we were com- "They had just killed hogs, and had dozen buildings on 1,000 acres that hold pletely wiped out," Ralph remembers. some grease in a 25-gallon lard can," he the office-a former country store build- "We had to start all over." remembers. "Well, somehow during the ing-several pieces of equipment, stacks War, too, affected the Fugate sawmill dance it got tipped over on the floor- of pine logs, the omnipresent sawdust business. "The Korean War gathered me and you can imagine what a mess with all pile as high as a house and even a small up and took me off," says Ralph, who that stompin around. airstrip used by Ralph, who several years spent a hitch in the Army during the "So they just started callin' the place ago took up flying as a hobby. 1950s, "and Don hadn't been back that 'Greezy Bend."' The business involves cutting trees by long already from World War 11." Regardless of changes in both working both the Fugates themselves and con- Normal business recessions since that and social lives, the Fugates obviously tractors, the building of homes and barns time have occasionally put the Fugates' believe in the community-and appar- and selling products ranging from cut operation at a near standstill. "You can't ently plan to stay for another 80 years. lumber to utility poles. sell anything, and you just sit and sit and "I've been all over the world," Don The business also includes a wood- sit," Ralph says of those lean times. says, recalling his travels while in the treatment plant-ne of the most impor- Last fall, the surprising cold spell Army and later vacations abroad with his tant parts of the operation and something caused the block of the Fugates' prized wife, Alma. "And I've never found any- highly symbolic of the Fugates' old electric plant in the wood-treatment place I like better than right here. resourcefulness. building to freeze and burst. There were "I could be in Las Vegas shooting dice The treatment plant, which involves costly slowdowns and repairs. or down in Mexico in Acapulco, but two vessels four feet high and more than The cultural changes, too, have been there's no place I'd rather be than stand- 50 feet long in which many of the wood apparent in the area, which still has some ing out there sawing that lumber and products are "pressure treated" with of its remote, wild look, lying next to a watching that sawdust fly." chemicals and oil to protect them against 900-acre state public hunting area and He put it another way: rot and termites, is now powered by its surrounded by such picturesque areas as "I guess if I was on my way to the own electric plant. And the electric plant Potapo Creek, Peacock Hollow and Bug- doctor and passed a sawmill, I'd stop first itself has a history nearly as fascinating as aboo Canyon. and watch 'em saw a few." the Fugate company's. "This whole country used to be full of It's a two-cycle diesel engine about 10 people," remembers Don. "But when Bod Jim Emand Jim Argo work for he feet high and 16 feet long that provides World War I1 came they left here just OkMoma Publishing Co., Argo as a the three-phase electricity-otherwise like a covey of quail-to California, most phozognapher and Etter as a state unavailable at the Fugate firm's loca- of 'em."

14 Oklahoma TODAY

N is calm as Daddy slams the door on the hone tderand climbs into the driver's seat ofthe car. The only boy in the family is asleep on lris staked claim, the widow /eke above the back seat. 728 oldest girl is stretched out on the b& seat itseg her rnndputed propeq. The smallest and youngest of the four dilh, both girl, are settled down on the floorboardr, with the dbve-

s/a@ hump a small mountain separating- their two tee- A /ris tobes. A place for everyone, and everyone in or irer p/acey Daddy pulls the car out ofthe dese~ed,dusty failgrocndr where this night's rodeo has taken place andhead it toward the next one on de circuit. Rc he drives down Main Street of lis blink-and-yor'll-miss-ittown, the one trafic light turn red and he puts on the brakes. Pake tumbles down on to Alice, and they bol mN of on top of Susie and Reba. It's Katie bar the door as the bloody boundary wan begin. nis may not seem a particularb unusual family travel scene, but the resalt of tk fondly recalled llproar offlying ahis and leg was unusual. As Reba rememben it: "When we were on the road with Daddy Those early songfests in the back seat took a series of slow steps. Formal train- rodeoin', it was us four kids in the back 1 developed in the McEntires' next-to- ing was sparse before Reba left the ranch seat wrasslin', pinchin', arguin' and youngest daughter a love of music and a and went off to college at Southeastern fightin'. And Daddy's temper couldn't desire to be a country-music star like her Oklahoma State University in Durant. last too long. So it was Mama keepin' us idols, Loretta Lynn, Connie Smith and She took piano lessons for a while in kids quiet by gettin' us to sing and play Dolly Parton. "Mama had an old record third grade and sang in the country-mu- games with songs." player in her bedroom," she remembers, sic group in her high school, too small for Clark McEntire's short temper and "and me and Susie would get in there a regulation marching band, but that was Jacqueline's peace-keeping tactics start- after we did our chores if Daddy was about it. Even in college, where she had ed the conversion of the brawling McEn- gone. Daddy was real strict on us kids. excellent all-around vocal training, she tires into "The Singing McEntires." He didn't approve of playin' cards, coun- majored in elementary education and Reba has climbed from the bottom of tin' money, watchin' TV in the daytime minored in music. The rancher's daugh- this pile of brother and sisters to the top or primpin'. 17rat was all idleness. We ter's horse sense told her that even of the Country and Western charts. She's were supposed to be makin' up the beds though her dream was to be a star, she'd

got two number-one records and three or workin' doin' something. Anyway, me better prepare-. a second, more stable ca- major music award nominations under and Susie would get into Mama's room, reer just in case. the belt buckle she wears, big as a 'dozer get an old hairbrush and mirror, turn 'em Lucky for country-music fans, Reba blade; the little girl from Stringtown has upside down to use the handles as micro- has never had to fall back on her degree. become a big name in Nashville. phones, and pantomime to 'Only You' N'hen she was just 19 and working on According to Reba, Daddy and Mama and other records." it, Clark McEntire suggested that since are responsible for her success in other From playing performer to being one she was always going to watch the Na- ways as well. Of course, her own sweet tional Finals Rodeo, she night just as and strong voice, charm and red-haired well try to earn her way by singing the beauty have had a little something to do 1 was so insecure uboar national anthem there. Reba called gen- with it. However, Mama passed on her what to wear and afraid ley eral manager Clem McSpadden, and he love of music and talent to the kids. And to approved what has become a minor tradi- Daddy? Well, he supplied the work eth- were goin' link I was a tion at the biggest rodeo of them all. ic, discipline and "volume," which Reba Rid from the sticks. Which I At her 1974 debut, Reba met Red claims he developed from calling in the was. Whid I am." Steagall, who called her to Nashville in cows on the home ranch. I early 1975 to record a demo tape for

16 Oklahoma TODAY Even loud Reba No matter how fancy McEntire has made it 7 ,.~7stage costumes get, to rAc Nashvilk big time, she r~badnda them in wid a stays close to her home ranch - mphy bucRle. She wore one her near Cjr,ockie, as open as she can. I,,, I ,--'dy earned as world-champion mailing admsfor the Reba McEntin steer roper till she lost (and found) it Intentational Fan Club is 'Star Route, twice. Nw she wean one with a National Stringtown, Oklahoma." --- Finah Rodeo theme, custom made for her. Mercury Records. Reba and Mama ing success of her marriage despite the gal'' whose freckles showed and whose packed up the family car and made for enforced separation that her life on the hair had a mind of its own. But, she Music City. She recalls that she was road brings. In fact, Charlie is becoming claims, "I walked out of that meeting scared to death at the idea of leaving her increasingly involved in the business end and said 'In my due time. 1'11 grow the rodeo "family'' and entering the music of Reba's career. He joins her on the way I want to grow.' And I did." business. road as often as his duties at their large For years, too. she wouldn't sing any "All the rumors I'd heard about it was ranch outside of Stringtown allow. songs whose lyrics she found objection- that it was filled with cutthroats, back- Reba's clearly a woman of definite able. This, as you can imagine, cut way stabbers, liars and cheats," she says now. ideas. She firmly declared she'd pursue a down on the number of Country and "I told Mama goin' down that if I had to career in music only if she could succeed Western songs she had to choose from. do something against my morals, we without compromising her morals, and She says, "When Charlie and I first got were leavin' and headin' back to she married a man despite her much- married, there was a long time that I Chockie. I took a whole back seat full of loved family's hesitations. She also made wouldn't record a cheatin' song, because clothes because I was so insecure about early decisions about who Reba McEn- I didn't want anybody to think I was what to wear and afraid they were goin' tire, Country and Western Star, would cheatin' on Charlie. And I durn sure to think I was a kid from the sticks. be. Taken to Chicago to meet with those didn't want Charlie to think I was chea- Which I was. Which I am." she calls the "big wigs" of Mercury Re- tin' on Charlie. But here lately, I've fig- She may perceive of herself as a kid cords, she remembers they told her to do ured out that people want to hear what from the sucks, but she sure doesn't act her hair, change her way of dressing and their lifestyles are, and they aren't associ- like one. At 28, she's a married woman generally fur up her image. She admits ating the song with me. So it was easier of seven years with two stepsons aged 13 that she was a "scrubby lookin' little 01' for me to record a song like 'You're the and 16. She met her husband, Charlie First Time I've Thought About Lea- Battles, while she was racing barrels and vin'.' I wouldn't have done that for he was wrestling steers on the rodeo "Daddy was real strict on nohin' five years ago." circuit. He's been a world champion vs kid. He didn't approve of Reba's growing success has its draw- steer wrestler several times. Her family's playin' card, cozlntin' backs, of course. She and Charlie initial concern over Reba's marrying a haven't yet found the right time to pro- man "10 years and 19 days" older than Inoney, watc"rn9 TV in the duce a child of their own. And though she, one who had two young sons to she loves what she's doing, Reba doesn't boot, has disappeared with the continu- I love being away from home for up to a May-June '84 17 For N ''kidJkottt I~Psfi(k?;,"KI)INI:F (/OIIP P.P//, zifh l/l~h'.c;/N/:nroYr &' n ji,ttli/J ioncprv. H~~.F//UII(/(;hor/if 771~':yit~gitlg.Ik.fi:l1N'mvgot tfgtfhfr ilg~itl(It the #I hits, 'Can't Even (;er the B/UPS"@ 'You're Banles is invohed in the barinas end, and tier sister /ast Nations/ Finah Rodeo, when Puke, Reba and the Fint Time I've Ever Thought About Lemin'." Susie Luchsinger mns her ranch-house ofice. Susie a// entertained at a late-ni@t dance. month at a time with only short visits la rendition of "Empty Saddles in the be a little more selective these days, as back between road trips in her custom Old Corral'' didn't leave a dry eye. The she puts it, "While I'm popular and bus, "Old May." Her biggest complaint simple beauty of this last tribute to a they're wanting me, I've got to go." about the busy summer of 1983 was that cowboy friend who'd made his last ride Go she does, but she always comes her new carpet and drapes were installed got to the singers as well; they all choked home to her large and closely knit family for two weeks before she could get home up and couldn't finish the last few bars. as soon as she can and for as long as she to see them. In tribute to her, Reba's friends have can. They all live within a 40-mile radius With a list of friends in what she now lined her up to send them off. Her of what Jacqueline McEntire calls the sees as her music "family" that reads like schedule of future funerals is almost as "weanin' shack atop a hill in Chockie. a Top 10 of Country and Western mu- full as her schedule of more conventional Each of the kids has passed through this sic-Sylvia, Janie Fricke, John Anderson concert dates. Reba has mixed feelings small country house with his or her and George Strait-Reba doesn't forget about this compliment: "I used to sing at spouse and children before moving on to the less well-known but equally impor- a lot of funerals, but only for real close more spacious lodgings. Susie, the last in tant home family of friends. Although people anymore because it hurts so bad. the line, lives there now with her hus- she swears she ages three years on each After Junior's, I said 'That's it.' But band and new baby boy. road trip and longs to lock the gate over there's . . . ." And she goes on to provide Oklahoma may have to share Reba the cattle guard when she does make it a list of local loved ones who have with the rest of the world, but her home home, she doesn't always do so. When begged and threatened to come back state darn sure won't ever have to give friends call on her to perform local bene- and haunt her if she doesn't perform. "I her up completely. She asserts in a tone fits, she tries to oblige. The last time I tell them," she continues, "to stick that leaves no room for argument, one saw her perform, she was singing up a around because I don't want to sing at she probably learned from her daddy, "I new gym for her alma mater, Kiowa any more funerals. I ask them to put it don't ever want to live anywhere else. It High School. off as long as possible." couldn't make that much difference."m Thefirst time I saw her was in the old Reba's not afraid of work, and she Kathryn Jmon, who teadm businas gym there. Reba, Pake and Alice were know's she has to get it while she can in writing at OU, was born in Henryetta and singing at the funeral of Junior Winslett, a business as fickle as hers. In addition to lm year published a book of a county commissioner whose list of her regular concerts and those funerals, "Okkzhomiana" titled Redneckin'. Stme friends made the gym's seating capacity she's done proms, weddings, shopping Skney, a veteran of 10 years as a a necessity for the service. The reuniting center openings, stock auctions and even ntwspaperphotographer, now works at OU's of The Singing McEntires for an a capel- tractor pulls. Although she can afford to Computing Semica.

18 Oklahoma TODAY

OF FISHING SO1 In that portion of the state boanded by Intentate 40 on the no~h and State Highway 48 on the west, fishermen can find some of the best fishing not jllst in Oklahoma, but anywhere in the corntry.

r..S!,,',., , , . , , W V ' , .' / p,"\', , , , . . I . . py,:.,:: / 1 , , ,..'!, ' ,.5 :,;: ,' I h$4 p:. , ,.. . , : , ,lY,, l

outheastem Oklahoma's terrain gurgling riffle -and planning tomorrow. tle giant still offers excellent crappie of pine-clad mountains, blue That type of a combination fishing fishing in early spring, good black bass streams and clear lakes offers and camping trip, in the midst of an water in both early spring and late fall endless chances for good fishing Oklahoma summertime, is still one of and one of the state hot spots for striper to the adventuresome angler. our favorite outings. But in this section fishing now, too. In my job as outdoor editor for the of Oklahoma, you can find the best of all Although Lake Eufaula does not have Tulsa World, I have been fortunate possible fishing worlds. striped bass in it, those increasingly pop- enough to see and enjoy some of the If you like big-lake fishing, perhaps ular fish migrate up the Canadian River headiest, most exotic angling in the zooming across a vast expanse of water in by the millions each year. Anglers fishing world, literally. a sleek new bass rig, southeastern Okla- below Eufaula dam catch as many strip- And as that saying goes on the current homa has more water than you'll be able ers as anywhere in the state-and some TV beer commercial, "it just doesn't get to fish in a lifetime. of the biggest. any better" than sitting in a camp chair Giant Lake Eufaula and its 102,000 Nearby Kerr Lake remains good bass on the banks of the Glover River, toast- surface acres of water, spilling over into water, too, if you spend some time get- ing another splendid day on the stream, four counties, has made a real comeback ting to know its rough and tough fishing when the fighting smallmouth bass were on the fishing scene in recent years. Ap- expanse. Kerr, a 13-year-old lake on the busting a topwater lure at the head of a proaching the 25-year-old mark, the gen- Arkansas River Navigation System, pro-

O~ositepage. Evety Oklahomafisherman knows that Tncoma is home to the sea-goingstrip. But fwo southeastern lakes-or, rather the hen beyond their dams- abo hold striped bass: Luke Eufaulu and Hugo Luke. Above. Bank fishing beside one of the southeast's smaller impoundments, Clayton Luke.

May-June '84 21 duces some of the heaviest strings of stocked with rainbows, and a few brook deep, rocky lake, looking much like Bro- bass seen in the area, late each spring. trout, by the Oklahoma Wildlife Depart- ken Bow in some areas. It's located in a~uiteeasily one of the most popular ment. The trout can survive there be- extreme northern Pushmataha County, lakes in the entire southeast, for its size, cause of Broken Bow's extremely cool, with the town of Clayton just a few miles is beautiful Broken Bow. Our extreme deep and clear water. south of the damsite. southeastern lake, Broken Bow draws Broken Bow's trout fishing occurs pri- Sardis has been as heavily stocked by huge crowds of anglers months before marily in mid- to late summer, as anglers the wildlife department as any new lake other lakes are producing fish. anchor boats right at the cable line in in state history. It has good populations Broken Bow impounds the rugged, front of the dam, then fish at extreme of largemouth, smallmouth and Ken- rocky Mountain Fork River, and the lake depths. Lots of lights are needed to do tucky bass, and it should also be a great reminds many of scenes of Canada. Nu- well on these trout, which feed best at crappie and catfish lake. , merous pine-clad islands are located in night. They will hit either live earth- Anglers thinking about giving Sardis a the lower regions of the lake. You can worms or small, lively minnows. look this spring should keep one impor- get lost on this one, if you're a newcomer Rainbows up to the five-pound class tant fishing regulation in mind. Like all and don't carry a good lake map. are being taken there each summer now new lakes coming on the state scene, it This lake usually has tremendous by anglers who know how to play this carries the 14-inch length limit on black black bass fishing in what is still winter- relatively new ballgame. bass. Kerr Lake in this southeast region time for most of the state. Broken Bow also has that rule, which requires that all i+' In this fishing season of 1984, gets "hot" as early as mid-February, and fPt ough, the lake that is going to be dis- bass measuring less than that length be anglers who hit it just right can take cussed in more fishing camps, and be on released immediately. impressive strings of bass by working the more anglers' minds, than any other is steep points, off the old river channel. Sardis. Casting a deep-running lure in crawfish This is Oklahoma's newest lake, it's Fishermen who are per- color patterns is a sure ticket to taking a approximately three-fourths full, and it's haps unfamiliar with this good string of bass here at this time of already producing some sensational bass corner of Oklahoma and year. fishing. You may hear fishermen refer- would like to test the new Oklahoma even has some excellent ring to this one also as "Clayton Lake." waters of Sardis or areas of lake fishing for trout now, too. It's not That was its original designation, but the older lakes such as Eu- well known outside the area, but in re- name was later changed to Sardis at the faula, will of course be well advised to cent years Broken Bow has been heavily request of area residents. It's a big, hire a guide.

22 Oklahoma TODAY as a super sla6 crappie lake in very early spring. Doodle-socking live minnows around brush and flooded pine trees is a sure way of collecting a fish basket full of big, tasty crappie at that season. Hugo Lake is another good crappie and bass lake. It's a big, timber-filled impoundment that would also be worth the cost of a local guide, if you're fishing it for the first time. It produces some huge bass each spring, and many savvy anglers have long expected another state record largemouth to be caught there. In recent seasons there has also been some great striped bass fishing in the Hugo area. Local anglers are fishing be- low that dam, primarily in early spring and then on into early summer, to take big strings of stripers, which are coming up the Kiamichi, out of the Red River. Although the stripers run much smaller there, five- to 10-pounders are still a handful on medium-weight tackle.

Southeastern Oklahoma will remain special to many fishermen, though, for its fabulous stream

The Glover, our last major undammed river, and the Moun- tain Fork, Little and upper Kiamichi riv- ers all still provide unsurpassed stream action-at the right time of year. Primarily, that means going very early in the spring, before streams get too low for good floating. Smallmouth bass have come back tremendously in the Glover, particularly in the past couple of years. Stream fishing is a type of angling that really calls for a good guide-a man who Bmken BGW is more than just one of Ok/ahoma'spmmkt /aka-ir's filed with dire and hiark bas.^, crappie, has the boats to fish the water and the catfib and men rainbow trout, which su&e thm became of dae /ake'.r deep, roo/ water. knowledge of just where to launch such Relatively few fishing guides operate Broken Bow, Sardis, Hugo and Pine a venture. in this part of the state. A few more try it Creek. Two guides specializing in float trips each season, but most quickly find that work in the Broken Bow area. Doug making a living this way can be very Walden lives in Broken Bow. John tough. Pine Creek and Hugo are Benge operates a floating-fishing service A quick poll of several guides in this two other large southeast on the upper stretches of the Mountain area showed that the average daily fee impoundments that annu- Fork River, and can be reached out of is now $100. There are a few men in ally offer their own special Smithville. the area who will be taking clients for brand of fishing. Pine Regardless of whether you personally trips on several different lakes, such as Creek is known by locals prefer fishing the big lakes for bass, cat-

May-June '84 A Fkhermans Fact Sheet

Area Best Time to Fish Species Best- Lures, Baits ------

; ~~b &&& hfmh, &dl, Edsy, '-. bl&k bass, white bbns spinnerbsrim for bkk bs;mall CE& Sepwmbber, f3m.d~~ swiped bass, emppie, baits for wirjw h j&p and kcW for stripers; like minnows fa mappie

Kerr Lake May, June, October, black bass, catfish, spinnerbaits and jiglchunk for black November striped bass bass; live shad and topwaters for stripers

Lake Wister M%J, June, July :wrch fafor flathead carfih; mnows for cmppie

Atoka Lake ApriL May, June,July c~appie,catfw _ minnows for crappie; various prepared baits for catfish

' wiay, jun smr uw plx-e W~W, October ~SS dee :&bait9

Kiamichi River April, May, September smallmouth bass, catfish, spinners, shallow-running crankbaits; panfish popping bugs for panfish

i 1G.Bpgg.. .,- E&e Matah, April black , crrtppie, large white spimerbaly aFad @h&fqE. .7- - bas dmmws far m+). jij~1fax I qrri

Little River May, June smallmouth & largemouth small crankbaits and jiglchunk for bass; bass, panfish tiny spinners and small crankbaits for panfish

: Pine Creek Lake February, Mad, blwk bass, jiglchunk and phstic warn hr bass; April, Octobes, crappie, r;at%wh jigs for mpp& %we -4 pg&dbigi~ November for catfish

Glover River April, May, August, smallmouth bass, shallow-running crankbaits and tiny September panfish spinners in spring and fall; live grass- hoppers in summer for all species

r Apnl, May, July, August, smallmouth ba same as Glover RNer lures September

Broken Bow Lake February, March, April, black bass, crappie, deep-running crankbaits and plastic August, September, catfish, white bass, worms for bass; live minnows for October rainbow trout crappie; tiny spinners for white bass; live earthworms for trout

- fish and crappie--or the streams for anywhere, and it still does. But it has ning a fishing trip to this region now may brown bass and a wide variety of sporty also changed over the years to a land- be deciding exactly where to go. panfish-it can all be found down in this scape dotted with big, man-made sampwe~~,OuhOreditor a he ~~l~~ varied water wonderland. lakeesome of the best in the CountV. World for 14yean, & a na&e OkIahoman The rugged, mountainous region once The choices open to the fisherman are who spend part 4eaui year fihing and boasted some of the finest stream fishing many, and the toughest part about plan- hunting in he souheastern part of he state.

Oklahoma TODAY

variety of Allied and foreign more about the American In- HEAD field artillery weapons. dian than in Anadarko. The SOUTHWEST Just a few blocks from National Hall of Fame for the museum are the graves of Famous American Indians INTO Quanah Parker and other and the Southern Plains Indi- Plains Indian chiefs at the an Museum are open daily. HISTORY Chiefs Knoll in the Post *The Anadarko Philomathic Sheila Samples Cemetery, and the famous Museum, a collection of re- Hunting for vacation chief Geronimo lies buried Cannon Walk, Fort Sill gional antiques and artifacts, is adventure while driving 55 on the east range in the open every day except miles an hour down a Apache prisoners' ceme- holidays. turnplke and peering myo- tery. Brochures on these and As August winds down, pic%I/y through a dusty other historical sites are at the area pauses just long windshield is one way to the Old Post Corral Gift Shop. enough to cook up a last- see Oklahoma. uring Au- fling summer blowout that ex- But if you're an "off the gust's third plodes over the Labor Day beaten path" person, it isnY I week, weekend. your way. And ifyou're a crowds throng from around the Cache, 15 miles west of true history buff, your way world to the annual Indian Lawton, gets down with its will take you south- Exposition in Anadarko's Indi- annual Frontier Days Cele- west--to Lawton, Ana- an City, USA, 40 miles bration and Rodeo. It's a darko, Cache, Meem, north of Lawton. Thousands three-day, non-stop hoe- historic Fort Silk11 within toMuseumrive Lawton's southof of Southern Plains tribes down at Eagle Park, just west minutes of the ancient, the Great Plains. 601 Ferris, come home to their "village" of Cache on Highway 62, sprawling Wichita L where a 300-ton steam loco- for tribal dancing, horse rat- and it's the Old West as it Mountains. motive and early-day agricul- ing, mud wrestling-and to really was. Your vacation doesn't tural machinery are parked display their arts and crafts. Old and new merge un- have to be just one long series outside. A fortified trading You can double your fun der dense purple shade and of museum tours-though post will be completed this by camping out at Randlett brilliant sunlight at Eagle the Southwest boasts some of summer. Inside, museum ex- City Park on the west edge Park. An amusement park and the state's finest collec- hibits depict the human of Anadarko, where there are skating rink nestle side by tions. The Army's largest mu- history of the Great Plains. 50 free campsites, lighted side with a 1902 Frisco depot, seum, at Fort Sill, is August is a big month in and patrolled at night. While an 1886 Indian trading housed in several buildings the Southwest, especially for you're waiting for the eve- post, an old newspaper office, from the original post. You those interested in history. ning's pow wow to begin, you the home of outlaw Frank can see a vast array of displays, Lawton, founded in 1901, cel- can swim, picnic, play soft- James and the infkmous "Star including a half-hour multi- ebrates its birthday for the ball and fish. House" built by Comanche media unfolding of the post's entire first week in true pio- Nowhere can you learn chief Quanah Parker. history. neer style. You'll be caught Field artillery exhibits up in parades, displays, square Museumof the Great Plains. Lawton and artifacts from both the dancing in the streets and Civil and Spanish-American four nights of top-flight rodeo. wars are there. The famous Lawton's own pioneer Half Section, a vintage women, decked out in bon- WWI field piece drawn by six nets and bustles, will invite horses, the only one of its you to a 6 a.m. country break- kind, is also at Fort Sill. War fast at the L.O. Ranch east history enthusiasts will de- of town. There you'll feast on light in the Cannon Walk, a griddle cakes, thick slabs of promenade past a striking "hawg," homemade biscuits and gravy, grits and mounds of just-gathered eggs.

2A Summer '84 stand in line on creaking wooden floors for places at rickety, unmatched tables and chairs. They sit under a water-stained ceiling, sur- rounded by 70-year-old signs and 45-year-old calendars, broken plowshares-even an ancient, hand-cranked gas- oline Dump. 1 ~ltkou~hMeers is listed in the National Reg- ister of Historic Places, it's not the atmosphere that draws crowds. It's the food. There's nothing fussy about a Meersburger-it's just plain, simple fare. But it fills an eight-to-10-inch plate, and it's made of real hamburger. "Real meat, off of a cow, with nothing added," one cus- tomer beamed. "I'd almost forgotten what one tastes like." There are also fat chunks of country-fried potatoes, fried . . -.-. onion rings and bulging Outdoor barbecue, Even the tawnv mountain Hollow Trail, a part of the homemade apple and pecan homemade ice cream, feath- lion has been gimpsed high in National Recreation Trail Sys- pies. ered and spangled dance- the refuge wilderness. tem, and trails at French Meers owner Joe Maran- hall girls and do-or-die You'll crawl over the Lake, Boulder, Lost Lake and to's specialty is great slabs of buffalo-chip throwing con- same peaks and hills as long- many more. The Elk rib-eye steak. "We bring tests keep the days hopping, ago hardrock miners. You'll Mountain Trail is really two the whole loin out to the table while rugged rodeo action poke around forgotten mine trails, with one leading and a customer marks the lasts into the night. shafts; discover desolate, from the Quanah Parker Lake thickness he wants," Maranto crumbling fireplaces, cobbly dam to the summit of Little said. Cost for the steak is ore grinders and shattered Baldy Mountain. $1 an ounce. Meersburgers wagons. range from $3 to $3.95, and A well-planned jaunt be- Maranto says if you can eat gins at the Quanah Parker Vis- three of them, they're all itor Center, east of Quanah free. ut if you Parker Lake. There, you'll At the end of a South- want to escape see a variety of wildlife ex- west adventure, sated with ' into natural hibits and get information o visit to scenery, weighty with his- history, head for the wonder- about the entire area. If the Wichitas is tory (and Meersburgers) you ful world of the Wichita you're a hard-core backpacker, complete can amble along back roads Mountains Wildlife Refuge. you must get a permit at without a stopover at the gold- home. Because you've seen an This takes planning and, if the headquarters for from one mining town of Meers, near Oklahoma that freeway you're not going to camp out, to three days in the Char- the base of Mt. Sheridan, just travelers always mis-ne a "home base" in Lawton ons Garden Wilderness Area. north of the refuge. Meen that lies just beyond those at a motel. where you're almost guar- is still thriving, although it's double-barred lines on the The refuge teems with anteed not to see another liv- tumbled from a metropolis highway maps. wildlife, from herds of huge, ing soul. . . . of 7,000 in 1907 to a pictur- shaggy buffalo to the classic The refuge has 15 miles esque old store that in- Longhorn and thundering elk; of hiking trails, with signs cludes a post ofice and cafk. to deer, beaver, squirrels clearly designating each The place is falling and birds of every description. one. There's the Dog Run apart--even junky. Yet hordes

May-June 3A birds, a chimpanzee park designated areas on the park their hands at Texoma's fa- ON and a petting park. Free rides grounds. bled striper fishing can set off (ANDOFF) on the paddle boats that Prices, per couple, start with a $5.75 fishing license, glide across the wilderness at $49 in the lodge; the one- valid in both Oklahoma and THE lake, plus half-price dis- and two-bedroom cabins, Texas waters. counts on the park's two- which sleep four to eight peo- Less experienced fisher- WATERFRONT men may want to hire one of Margaret Dornaus humped camel rides, are ple, are slightly higher. RV camping ranges from $5.50 to the resort's guides, who It's called lake Coun- also included in the ticket price. $s. know where to catch the salt- ffy, appropriately enough-- water transplant, a big the 10-county area that brother to the white bass. lies between Oklahoma City Guided day trips cost and the Texas border- around $150 but include ev- and it surrounds the oldest erything-boat, tackle and as well as the most pop- tour. Box lunches are sold at ular of Oklahoma's state re- the lodge for such sorts, Lake Murray and I ust down I the road is expeditions. lake Texoma. Send the luds off on a But Lake Country of- Turner Iing room hobo hike with the recreation fers more than just a broad Falls, a recreation area that next morning offers a chance specialist. After cooking variety of water activities. tempts thousands of visitors to meet ~exoma'scelebritv hotdogs over a tin-can fire, he You can also ride a cam- each year to linger in the Ar- waitres+spry 87-year-old ~ir- will help them catch a fish, el, swim beneath a waterfall, buckle ~ountainarea, gie White. Since her televi- and if it's big enough, the stroll through beautiful where Oklahoma's highest wa- sion appearance on Real Peoph flower gardens and visit the terfall cascades 77 feet to last year, Virgie has attract- lodge chef will cook it for dinner. historic Choctaw Nation form a natural swimming pool. ed attention from lodge new- Spend the afternoon swirn- Skiing lessons are also Headquarters and the Chicka- comers, although Texoma ming in one of the falls' two available from one of the mari- saw Council House. regulars have known her ever pools, spelunking in one of na's pros, or you can swim Begin your vacation with since the lodge opened its three caves or exploring its either in the pool or the lake. a leisurely afternoon drive more than 30ve& ago. Al- rare geological formations. At lunch time, a snack down Interstate 35. The ways ready to klk, vYrgie dusk approaches, shop near the water offers first stop on a trip to Lake As has more than her share of sto- head north again to the Cedar- hamburgers, hotdogs and Texoma Resort: the Ar- ries to tell about Indian vale Garden Restaurant, a soda pop, but many choose to buckle Wilderness, a 400-acre Territory, where she was born short distance from ~umer cook on one of the park's wooded parkland filled and reared. Falls, for a wide selection Most folks will want to grills. with some 2,000 Golfers will want to trv exotic animals that lies just of succulent trout dishes. spend the day ahead on the Hamburgers can be ordered out the resort's expanded and east of the interstate at the lake, where water sports for the children, and the fam- upgraded 18-hole course. Turner Falls exit near run the gamut4ock fishing, ily can enjoy their meal Carts and clubs can be rented Davis. sailing, boating, skiing, amid beautifully landscaped at the resort's pro shop. Driving along the eight- swimming. Anglers itchy to try gardens. The novice might want to try mile road that runs through With supper finished, a few rounds at the park's the park, you can gaze at continue down 1-35 to Ard- miniature golf course, instead. antelope, buffalo, camels and more, then east on U.S. 70 And. of course. there's al- even kangaroos roaming ways horseback riding. Adja- freely. The $5.95 adult and to Lake Texoma Resort. Here lodge accommodations cent to the park is a riding $3.95 child admission fees overlook the 93,000-acre lake stable that sponsors trail rides, also give visitors access to the that spreads through this cookouts and small rodeos landscaped walkway that part of Oklahoma and north- every Saturday night. features an aviary for large em Texas. In addition to After an active day in the the lodge's 97 rooms, Texoma sun, cross the Highway 70 visitors can choose to stay at bridge to Naifeh's Steak one of 67 cottages, all with kitchenettes, or camp in

Summer '84 rhere you can get a breath- aking view of surrounding :ountryside from Tucker rower, a tall WPA structure. Cap off your day with a ~unsettour of Lake Murray on I boat rented at the lodge's narina before returning to rexoma for a light dinner lnd a good night's rest.

where the lingering- - aroma Iof 1,000 magnolia trees fills the air at Southeastern Oklahoma State Universitv. Or you may want to plan II your trip to coincide with the I-,, .,.toma Resort Renaissance Fair and the Oklahoma Shakespearean House, where the Naifeh fam- Highway 78, the historic land- was built in 1838 and used by Festival on campus ~~l~ 5- ily has been serving up pit mark has the distinction of the Chickasaws' first gover- 15. barbecue, fresh homemade being the only fort built to nor, Cyrus Harris. West of the campus is rolls and Lebanese delica- protect the Indians from the Choctaw Nation's Head- cies for two generations. Past- other Indian tribes. quarters, where tribal busi- ries are also homemade and Built in 1842, the fort ness is conducted in a historic include peanut butter and protected the Choctaws and building once known as strawberry pies and hot ap- Chickasaws from warring Oklahoma Presbyterian Col- ple dumplings. Plains Indians who roamed the lege. This is a good place to Get back by 8 p.m. for territory. Later, the fort op- caving Ti- buy souvenirs of your south- an old-fashioned hayride and erated as headquarters for shomingo, central Oklahoma stay- sing-a-long that usually Southern troops who fought drive west handmade crafts in the center ends with carving up a water- in the Battle of Honey on 1-70, arriving at Ardmore in ope,ted by the tribe. melon. Or you may prefer a Springs, the largest Civil time to relax over lunch at In downtown Durant, moonlight cruise on the War battle waged in Mazola McKerson'~restau- snap family pictures in front of lodge's houseboat, which Indian Territory. Today, rant, The Gourmet, located the uworld9slargest pea- sometimes has a band on an interpretative center tells off 70 West at 1606 McLish. nut," a monument to the ar- board. the fort's story, and several For under $6, You can dine ea's largest cash crop. historic buildings dot the on a wide variety of salads and And if you're there June acreage. entrees prepared with ho- 12-16,you can whoop and hol- From here, follow a sce- mestyle attention. Leave room ler at an outdoor rodeo, nic drive on 78 through the for dessert, though, for Ma- country dance and barbecue, Tishomingo Wildlife Ref- zola is famous for her fresh- part of Durant Western uge area and turn west at State baked delicacies that Days, and a lively way to wind ne next Highway 12 to include buttermilk pies, straw- up your vacation in Oklaho- day, explore Tishomingo. berry-covered meringues ma's Lake Country. I some of the Visit the original council and an irresistible torte-like surrounding countryside with house of the Chickasaw Indi- concoction called 1 a trip to nearby Fort Washi- ans, a restored cabin that "Fantastic." ta. Located 12 miles north- Lake Murray lies just west of Durant on State nine miles south of Ardmore.

May-June 5A tality but big city sophistica- TRAVELING tion. It has East Coast ON energy but a West Coast TULSA casualness. TIME Connie Cronley When vou want to aet

you enjoy the climate, scen- I 1 ery, sense of history and out straight pea-. with the compass, but Main When you want activi- Street, surveyed by a rail- Formal garaens at PnllbrooK AR center, lulsa ty, you go to the city. That's road engineer to run at right where you enjoy the arts, angks with the railroad, cre- Boulder, cut short-literally- in 1836. This great oak stood shopping, sports, restau- ates a "cattywampus" down- by the Depression, was de- at the southeast corner of rants and maid sewice. town, full of one-way signed to be 13 floors, but con- the Creek Indians' town All cities have special streets. struction stopped at three. square. features. Kansas City has Streets east of Main are Westhope, a private residence Woodward Park and Mu- baseball, jazz and named for cities east of the at 3704 S. Birmingham nicipal Rose Garden, 21st and steaks. Dallas has Neiman- Mississippi (Boston, De- Ave., by Frank Lloyd Wright. Peoria. The terraced rose Marcus and Six Flags. troit); those west of Main are When the architect's ex- garden is award-winning and Tulsa, though, is full of Western cities (Denver, perimental roof kept leaking, breathtaking, but also dis- surprises and quiet charm. I Cheyenne). the owner said "Well, cover the tiny Anne Hathaway came to Tulsa from a small The contemporary glass that's what we get for leaving a herb garden, look into the Oklahoma town 20 years ago. office buildings downtown work of art out in the rain." Tulsa Garden Center (espe- I've been discovering new would outdazzle Dallas, Everybody wants to see cially the striking black art- facets of the city ever since. but the nugget of Tulsa's dis- Oral Roberts University, 7777 deco bathroom) and find the I've shown the city to tinctive skyline was built in S. I,ewis, with its ultra- serene arboretum, perfect former Tulsans like a proud the 1920s with jazz-age tem- modern Prayer Tower (avail- for languid picnics. parent ("See how it has pos, oil-boom extravagance able for touring) and the Feed the ducks at Swan grown!"). I've displayed it to and art-deco tastes. 60-foot-tall Healing Hands at Lake, 17th PI. and Utica, visitors like a magician Art Deco to look for: nearby City of Faith. which was, once upon a yanking surprises out of a hat. flamboyant Zigzag style to time, an amusement park or, I've explored its history- make skyscrapers look the outskirts of Tulsa. scars and all-with young peo- taller. Colorful Terra Cotta For more vigorous exer- ple ("You should know ornamentation. Streamlined cise and great peoplewatching, your roots"). 1930s style with sleek try River Parks, especially ' I suspect the person who curves and black glass, sym- or Tulsa's the east bank of the Arkansas has enjoyed it most has been bolic of speed. The solid real roots, see River near 21st Street, busy me. PWA Classic Style of the the Creek with joggers, bicyclists, skat- Tulsa is a city that prides Great Depression and New Council Oak, 1730 S. Chey- ers, dogs and Frisbees. itself on its beauty and makes Deal for an enduring look. enne, where the city began This is the finish line for the up slogans like a perpetual Art Deco examples: Bos- Great Raft Race on Labor campaigner: "Oil Capital of ton Avenue Methodist Day weekend and for extrava- the World," "Terra Cotta Church, 1301 S. Boston, gant fireworks the Fourth City," "America's Most Liv- Tulsa's art-deco cathedral, of July. Under the 21st Street able City." represents praying hands. Bridge, Francis Ford Cop- It has a small town hospi- Christ the King Church, 1530 pola filmed part of his movie S. Rockford, with stained- "Rumblefish." glass windows like woodcuts, Summer evenings are among the best in the nice at Bell's Amusement world. (For really unusual Park, 21st and New Haven stained glass, see the Dam- between Harvard and Yale, nation Window at Trinity where the very brave ride Episcopal Church, 501 S. the Zingo roller coaster. Bell's Cincinnati. The decorative is part of Expo Square, siteof Pythian Building, 423 S. the Tulsa State Fair in the fall.

6A Summer '84 "I've been to Buckingham Palace, but it hasn't anything r on Waite Phillips' house." 4 Inside are outstanding collec- tions of American Indian baskets and pottery, Italian Renaissance paintings and sculpture and Chinese jades. Outside, the 23 acres of for- mal gardens are a work of art in themselves. Thomas Gilcrease Insti- tute of American History and Art, 2500 W. Newton, is a national treasury of Western art (works by Frederic Remington, Thomas Moran, Charles M. Russell) and famous anthropological and ar- chaeological collections. The Gilcrease collection was begun in 1912, when a part-Creek, 22-year-old mil- lionaire bought a romantic painting, "Rural Courtship." Next door is his home, where Gilcrease lived with his bride, Norma Smallwood, Miss America of 1926. The Gilcrease grounds come alive with history at the annual Gilcrease Rendez- vous in May, patterned after the fur traders' spring rendezvous.

Night view of Tulsa skyline

Tulsa Ballet Theatre, Tulsa Harvard, Yale or Sheridan Opera and Tulsa Philhar- to 36th Street North, where a monic. For more casual enter- new living museum has ing, try the tainment, Discoveryland, transformed a nice zoo into he Indian 10 miles west of Tulsa on something very special, Lyon's Indian Store down- Ballerina stat- West 41st Street, presents with live displays of the arctic town at 702 S. Main. Wil- ue (beside "Oklahoma!" in an outdoor tundra, Southwest desert liams Center Forum, Second WilliamsY Plaza Hotel on Third and more. In August, the Tul- and S. Main, is a three-lev- amphitheater. The old- Street between Boston and fashioned melodrama "The sa Pow Wow, the world's el shopping center built Cincinnati) is a tribute to Drunkard" has been play- largest with more than 100 around an ice skating rink. Oklahoma's five Indian ing for more than 30 years at tribes represented, is held Charming Utica Square shop- maidens who became interna- the Tulsa Spotlite Theater, on the 2,800 acres of natural ping center at 21st and S. tionally famous ballerinas. 1381 Riverside Dr. Some- woodland at Mohawk. Utica includes the fashionable A block away, see the where in the city, a curtain If there are jewels in the Nicole's for lunch. Stone- outdoor mural "Trees" at First is probably going up on one of city's crown, they are the horse, 3509 S. Peoria, features Place, Fourth Street and Tulsa's theaters, which pre- museums. Chubby's chocolates and Main. sent everything from Shake- Philbrook Art Center, Gallery 26 for original art. For an evening of fine- speare to musical comedy. 2727 S. Rockford, is a Renais- Woodland Hills Mall, 71st arts entertainment, check the One fine summer after- sance villa and former pri- and S. Memorial, offers block- performing schedule of noon, visit Mohawk Park, at vate home. Will Rogers said, buster fashion and depart-

May-June ment stores. The elegant "The only thing we ever keep Maybe that's what Tul- fashion store Sakowitz, the is that which we give sa's slogan should be: A City only one in Oklahoma, I away." of Many Gifts. opened in February and cost $8 million to build--even ulsa's rise without merchandise; it is to glory began adjacent to the swank Shera- I June 25, ton Kensington Hotel, 2250 1901, when the state's first E. 73rd St. commercially important oil Dining out in Tulsa of- well came in across the river at fers a wonderful variety of res- Red Fork. Part of the taurants. For Chinese, try City's character was shaped by A -- the Mandarin, 1695 S. Yale, Tulsa's famous and infa- with spicy Szechuan cui- mous people and events: en- Remember how much fun sine. For steaks, Jamil's, 2905 tertainers Jennifer Jones, it was when YOU were a kid E. Slst, is the granddaddy Tony Randall, Anita Bryant, to find a map and pretend to of steakhouses; close contend- Leon Russell; worldcham- look for buried treasure? The ers are Eddy's, 3310 E. pion poker player Bobby Bal- "Oklahoma Vacation Guide" I dwin; lVestern Swing's 31st, and Freddy's in neigh- is your map to all sorts of real boring Sapulpa. Mexican royal family of Johnnie Lee 1 food is great at El Rancho Wills and his brother Bob; vacation "treasures" that fl Grande, 7879 E. 71st or Olympic wrestling champion glisten like jewels all across 1629 E. 11th. Pennington's Terry McCann; Oklaho- Oklahoma. Drive In, 4235 E. Peoria, is ma's polio doctor, Dr. Ian With this guide you can 1 a Tulsa landmark, famous for MacKenzie; Arizona Clark plan your trips around special fried shrimp the size of "Ma" Barker and her boys. ping pong paddles. Other fam- The Drexel Building events, attractions and fun ous eateries are the dinky downtown is gone. There, on places to stay. a Coney Island downtown, 108 May 30, 1921, an incident Chart your next vacation W. 4th, and Nelson's Buf- sparked the Tulsa Race Riot voyage to Oklahoma. Clip R fateria, 514 S. Boston, for sen- that destroyed the black and send this coupon today, sational chicken-fried commercial district of Green- steak. For unbelievable des- wood Avenue, known as along with $2.00, for your I serts, lunch and Sunday "Negro's Wall Street." "Oklahoma Vacation Guide brunch, there is Sally Lunn's, Gone, too, is Hotel Tul- & FREE Highway Map. 1621 S. Cincinnati, a barely sa, 4th and Cincinnati, the oil- transformed two-story house. man's headquarters 1912 to -- To put on the ria, try La 1927, where Josh Cosden ?-I, Cuisine, 5800 S. Lewis, for wrote a $12-million check, 2- spectacular chicken Kiev where J. Paul Getty became on pasta, or the cosmopolitan known as the "world's rich- Chalkboard, 1325 S. Main. est man'' at age 23, where After hours there is Harry Sinclair and William Western dancing at Cowboys G. Skelly talked business, and where one Tulsa oilman 7 Dance Hall and Saloon, 6060 S. Sheridan, and Chis- wore a $10,000 bill as a holms, 5000 E. skelly Dr., boutonniere. - The Sun Company Tul------>g or try Charlie's Nostalgia, 3340 Mail to: Vacation Guide S. Peoria, a 1950s club. sa Refinery on the west bank The Oklahoma Tourism & Recreation Dept. Many of the luxury ho- of the Arkansas River offers 215 N.E. 28th St. Oklahoma City, OK 73105 tels have clubs with live enter- free admission and group tours tainment, such as Barristers to see one aspect of a still- Please enclose $2.00. in Williams Plaza Hotel (Wil- active oil business. liams Center Downtown) or Evidence of oil philan- Name Picasso's in the Excelsior, 606 thropy is everywhere in Tulsa. W. 7th. Schools, universities, Address churches, hospitals, museums and parks were all built with the generosity of oilmen. As Waite Phillips said, State Zip

8A Summer '84 OKLAHOMA OMNIBUS The BdZd Cypress By Kate Jones Photograph by David Fitzgerald

When the Choctaws came to the years, that wood has been used for ev- mand is still there, but the cypress land promised them in the Indian Na- erything from boats and docks and aren't. In the last 20 years, I don't think tions, one reminder of their Mississip- bridges to shingles, paneling and even I've seen a mill that cuts more than a pi homeland stood to greet them-the caskets. few thousand board feet a year." bald cypress. Demand for cypress is still high, If the big stands of big trees are Buttressed and ridged, surrounded about gone from Oklahoma, cypress can by knobby knees in swampy ground, the still be seen-along the Mountain cypress seems more a part of the Fork in Beavers Bend State Park, for Deep South than Oklahoma. In the instance, and its tributary, Buffalo state, its range is limited to the Little Creek, near Smithville. Great stumps and Mountain Fork rivers and their trib- also line the creek-the remains of utaries, in our small patch of the trees cut down at the turn of the century. Southern Coastal Plain. The cypress trunk used to make The bald cypress, Taxohm &ti- the sculpture that stands outside the For- drum Rich., is kin to the redwood; ances- est Heritage Center at Beavers Bend tral cypresses covered North was donated by Buck Scott, who owns a America millions of years ago. Today's stand of the big trees along Buffalo Taxodium didchum looks like an ever- Creek. But the tree he gave had been green in summer, with its fringe of light- felled years ago by honey-hunters, green needles in featherlike rows. In and Scott, who's dedicated to preserving autumn, though, those needles turn his cypresses, gave it in lieu of one golden-brown and fall, stripping the the center asked for-a 650-year-old tree tree and revealing its true nature as a still standing on his land. deciduous conifer. Oklahoma's most famous cypress, Cypresses can grow tall, wide and for years listed as the state's largest tree, handsome40-100 feet (sometimes as also still stands, near the Gardner tall as 150 feet), with trunks 2-5 feet Mansion at old Eagle Town, east of Bro- across (sometimes 10 feet or more). ken Bow. The venerable tree, some They're also long-lived, commonly 2,000 years old and 45 feet around, surviving for several hundred years. guarded the old Bethabara Crossing Their natural home is in swamps but the supply of mature trees has fallen on the Mountain Fork, where many and along streambeds, where they can't mightily, in Oklahoma and the rest of Choctaws passed into their new na- put down deep roots. One anchoring its range. Cypresses are as slow growing tion in the 1830s. Legend has it that system is the buttresses around their as they are long living, and don't Eagle Town's name came from the bases. Another, scientists believe, is reach marketable size for some 100 eagles that roosted in its top. the weird "knees" that rise from the years. Loggers cut many of the state's That top doesn't reach so high to- ground around them: hollow, cone- large trees long ago, and dams along the day. On May 12, 1982, lightning shaped projections that may also help Mountain Fork and Little rivers have knocked down most of its branches the roots breathe in the soft, mucky drowned big parts of the trees' habitat. and a huge hunk of its main trunk. The soil. In the late 1800s, the Choctaw Na- tree lost about a third of its height; The early Choctaws used cypress tion could make money charging a royal- what remains stands only about 90 feet knees as bodies for drums, made canoes ty of $3 per thousand board feet of tall. The worst is that the owners, from their trunks and used the bark to cypress milled. Today, cypresses are still Frances and Lewis Stiles, say the tree cover their dwellings. In the Choctaw logged, a tree here, a tree there. But, appears to be dead. Still, Frances Nation after the Civil War, cypresses according to John Bunvell Sr., president Stiles says, "We have no plans to cut it were logged for the durable, rot-resistant of the Oklahoma Forestry Association down. We'll keep it as long as nature heartwood of the old trees. Over the and longtime area timberman, "The de- lets it stand."

May-June '84 25

TREASURES OF OKLAHOMA'S mST WORLD I By John Davis Photographs by Steve Sisney

re Cdurnbw-a bmd

'Today, u n d e ~ people~ ia much like looking at a jigsaw pdewith m d the pieces mi-. Many piecesl were destroyed by oomrcid pot huntem in the dy19309. They d~ into the mounds in a gdd-fwr hnzy, tumUed them through and through, uddynamite, UIMOV* hoards sf artifacts, but de- stroying many dwm in daeir hte. Craig Mmnd, largest af the mounds and one of the greatest

I ------Spire artifacts from OVs StovaU Museum. Cloehd~efrom lefi: "Pipe stteuker" eB@ pipe, made of bauxite; a #rip~)dwmel qf clq; a conch siwfl e~graved with a tattoaed ma*; two ear apoolj; crud a rriumvirafir of spear points. Above. lZe Spim Mound, in a bend of the Arkansas River in pment-day LeFlore Coung, are not espen'alb impmsbe to look at. But tlre site, which hbeen called 'heof tlre most important anhaeological sites in the United States," was the renter of a comph dure that influenced the entire Southeast between A.D. 900 and 1450. Preceding page. E?e figures shown are fmm a mural executed during the fint contmlled exravationr ofthe Spim Mound, which spanned 1936-1941.

Right. Some of he smaller-.rca/e objects re- mmmedfmm Spim: mo ranch-.&// faces, each about an inch and a quarter in diameter, and an otject of cawed quam, the so-called Yorust boatstone," a wk&t for an aclatl, or thmw- ing spear.

treasure houses of pre-Columbian art ever found in the United States, was left looking like a bombed-out hill in No Man's Land. An archaeologist who visited the site shortly after the pot hunters were gone found ancient fur and feather textiles littering the whole area. For hundreds of square yards he couldn't take a step without scuffing up broken pieces of pottery and engraved conch shells and beads of shell, stone and bone. Not only were artifacts destroyed but the context of their discovery was lost, and it's from this that archaeologists read the history of a prehistoric people. Many of the artifacts, fortunately, ended up in museums, such as the Smithsonian, Harvard's Peabody, the Gilcrease and Philbrook in Tulsa, Woolaroc near Bartlesville, the Oklahoma Historical Society, the Kerr Museum near Poteau and the University of Oklahoma's Stovall Museum. Many other pieces of the puzzle are still buried in that mysterious field now contained within the Spiro Mounds Archaeological State Park, on the south bank of the Arkansas near Spiro. Among intriguing features yet to be excavated is what may be a burial pit in Brown's Mound. "What it is we don't know," says Don G. Wyckoff, director of the Oklahoma Archaeological Survey, "but it could be a shaft tomb for someone very special to his society and could contain perishable material-baskets, cloth, carved wooden bowls, bows and arrows, cane matting." 'The drawback is lack of funds for excavation. The pit is below ground- water level, and the water would be a problem. And the perishable material would have to be treated immediately, for once exposed to air it would

28 Oklahoma TODAY Above. 7L Spim site contains the remains of a village and I I eurthen mounds. 7bhy the ureu is Oklahoma's on(y state archaeologirul pork, which inrludes an interprerive renter, trails-and a reconstmction of a Spiro house. 7Ke or@- nals had wa//s built with upright logy and cane frames, which wew plastered with clay and fired to make the cluy hard, then thatched.

Left. A .rhe/l go*, infised with stylized human hands. Hands wew a popular motif, nor on4 at Spim but throughout the MisSjSSippi- an culture of whir6 tSpiro wa.i a part. (Other Mis.rissippiun sires: (:a/20k~am St. L,ouis and Efmah in Ceoqia). Cows like thrs one wew worn ty the rulturei clite; note the fwo holes at its top, thmugh which a thong could be strun& ruin. Lack of funds has long plagued the Spiro project. Controlled excavation was done by Oklahoma University, with the University of Tulsa, the Oklahoma Historical Society and WPA work crews, between 1936 and 1941. No further work of consequence was done for almost 40 years until the Oklahoma Tourism and Recreation Department helped fund excavations for the summers of 1979-1982. The work will be resumed when funds are again available. The puzzle pieces that do exist give a fairly detailed view of the Spiro people. They were farmers, living principally on corn, beans and squash, but gathering wild plant food, too, and hunting deer and small game. They'd come up from the south about A.D. 600, settling on the Arkansas, Canadian and Grand rivers, pushing as far west as Eufaula and as far north as Miami. Spiro was the richest of some 15 ceremonial centers in Oklahoma. 'The Arkansas River was the gateway between the South Plains and the Missis- sippi Basin. By controlling the river, the Spiro people controlled trade between the buffalo-hunting tribes of the Plains and the advanced Indian societies of southeastern United States. Once settled on the rich bottomlands, they had time to develop into skilled traders and obtain both raw materials and elaborate articles from throughout eastern North America: engraved conch shells from the Gulf coast, copper plates from the southern Appalachians, carved cedar masks and effigies from stone, fabrics woven from animal hair, excellent pottery. They also developed an elite ruling class of priest-chiefs who collected

May-June '84 29 Above. An arrhaeological tragedy occurred in 1933, when a pup calling itself the Porola Mining Co. ledCraig Mound, the site's largest, and excm~atedit for artifacts. Dr. Robert E. Bell, then a young anhaeologit and later curator of the Stmall, witnased the destruction: "7ktreasure hunten dug haphazardly, eu- etyonefo//m~inghis own doire and hoping for a lucky find. The mound surface was a series of deq pits, potholes and dirt piles. .. . The digen were interested only in the money from selling the nlirs they discovered, not in learning about the Indians themselves. No records were ktpt and they were very serretive about where relirs were found as there might be others ma*."

Right. A reramrr bottle wrth rnnsed detr., and another ear spool. 77re spertarular works of art commonly assonated wtth .Yprm were ar- cumulated by the ruling elztenot rts rommon people, whose merydajr objerts included pot- tery bowls andjan, bone GWLF,bows and amws and stone heads for hoes.

Far right. A cedar mask, originally roe>ered these artifacts as symbols of their wealth and power. When these godlike with ropper, inlaid with shell eyes, ear spools and teeth. Ear spook were worn in stretrhed ear chiefs died, they were carried to burials on cedar litters piled with en- lobes and wwe a sign of wealth and power. graved shells, copper plates and stone effigies. Usually, the ritual objects were broken so they could not be used again before dirt was heaped over them. The mounds were built in connection with the rituals, some as burial mounds, some to support temples or mortuary houses, some to cover mortu- ary houses that were ritually burned. Spiro now contains the remains of a village and 11 mounds, the mounds built over hundreds of years by Spiro people hauling dirt by the basket load. From designs on their artifacts, they were a strange and fierce people. Their artifacts show violence and raw power-an armed warrior holding aloft a severed human head. Or a grotesque creature with a snake's body, the claws of an eagle and a human head-sprouting antlers. There are no remains of fortifications at Spiro as there are in mound-communities in the south- eastern U.S. The Spiro people apparently were afraid of no one. But about 1250 something happened that radically changed their life. Perhaps it was a long, severe drought. People living on the western and northern frontiers abandoned their villages and moved back to southeast- ern Oklahoma, where rainfall is heavier. A large community developed at Spiro about 1250. Most of the graves in Craig Mound, the treasure-house mound, date from this time.

30 Oklahoma TODAY Getting There

l2e Spiro Mounds Archaeologica/ State Pad rafi in a deep bend in the Arkan- sas herjust nodeast of the town of Spiro. To reach the park from the Interstate 40, take de Sallisaw exit, trzwel I6 miles south on U.S. 59 to the intersection wih State Highway 9, theastward to the pud, tight mila east of Spiro. nepark and its Interpretive Center are open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Saiurday and 1-5 p.m. Sunday. No fee is chu~ed.A wa/hay a mile and thr~-quafierslong leads around the mounds, and the Interpretive Center gives a concise history of the Spin, people and mmples of tkarCifacfs. Call (928) 962- 2062 for more infodon. Visitors may also want to see the fine collection of am$cts in the nea& Km Mu- seum, six miles southwest of Poteau on U.S. 271. Ok/ahoma Unicmi@'sStovall Muse- But by 1450 the mounds had been abandoned and the priestly class had um and the Oklahoma Archaeological Sumq vanished. And the descendants of Spiro became seminomadic again, part- hawe put together an exhibit on Spiro time farmers who hunted buffalo and adopted many of the ways of the Mounds, which will tour the state for the next hree yean. Titled "ne Spiro Culturn: Plains Indians. Prehistoric Gatmay, Modm-day Enigma," Exactly what happened? No one knows for certain. But historically, the project ftum some 35 artifacts from powerful leaders have had a way of growing heavier and heavier on their Stwalfs col/e&'ons, including ej5figy pipes, people's shoulders. And when their people fall, there is nothing left to sM//goqets, copper plates and ponery . Most are high-quali@ repToductions of the support them. reaf things, since much of the original A possible scenario for their decline is this: material is too fragi/e to take on the road. Powerful priest-chiefs controlled the people, perhaps with their own nedibic, which also inc/udes nar- military force. At the end, when the society was fal~ering,perhaps they were rated slide-tape programs, will be at the Tahlequah Pubfic Library until May 19, busy embellishing themselves with expensive burial trappings. Perhaps when it will trzwel to the Chisholm Trail they were so wrapped up in their power they forgot to attend to their people. Museum in Kingfisher and stay from May With the lack of rain, problems may have arisen that the leaders could not 24 to July 28. It rounds out the summer at solve. Perhaps the people were asking why the corn did not grow. There was the McAlater Pubfic Library, Aug. 2- no rain, and the leaders with all their rituals could not change that. Perhaps the people found they had no need for leaders who could not make the rain fall. It is to this vanished society that the reconstructed Spiro Mounds and the artifacts the mounds have yielded afford dark glimpses. Dl

John Dmh Is a Norman-basedfree-hnce writer-.

May-June '84 31 OKLAHOMA PORTFOLIO KYM WILSON

Kym Wilson was born in Idabel on Nou 25, 1947 -and has been fascinated by photography just about ever since he can recall. '7started looking atphotography when I was a boy, andit amazedme. I couldn ?figure out howphotoahers did what they did "he says. 'Ygot a camera as soon as I was old enough -about I4 or 15 -and started trying to figure it out." Today he lives with hzj. wljceand two daughters on hisfamily 's cattle ranch in an area called the Redland community in southern McCurtain County, suwounded by the Ouachita National Forest. Kym came home about ezght years ago; before that he lived and worked in Cal@rnk and Nevada. "7 bought the good camera I have now with money I won gambfing in Las Vegas, "hesays. "That was the best investment I ever made." His work focuses on the natural beauty of southeastern Oklahoma, from mrj-ty sunnkes and rainbows to lzghtning, tker lilies and tarantulas. But he classzj?es himselfas an 'bveraller " "More and more," he says, '"ISn concentrating on experimentalphotography, on subject^ I can shoot when the llghtS not good enough for nature shots. . .. There? not a day I don't have a camera in my hand"

Tiger butterfly drying ~tswings Cactus in bloom. Redland commun~ty.McCurta~nCounty Goodwater commun~?/.McCurta~n County I 1 . --'" ".- OKLAHOMA PORTFOLIO AeovE Sunrise off the Wilson porch. Redlalid commun ty McCurtalr Codrty

34 Oklahoma TODAY ":$,j:.: .. ?#sic l~,lM'f?

p 36 Ra~nbowand cornf~eld p 37 HIS grandfather's tools Redland commun~ty,McCurtain County Redland commun~ty,McCurta~n County

May-June '84 35 OKLAHOMA PORTFOLIO OKLnHOMA PORTFOLIO - SOUTHEAST SOUTHEAST TOUR

As good a gateway to other corps-operated campground) and, For more information, call the hlcAl- the southeast as any after another sharp turn south, to the ester Chamber of Commerce, (918) 423- other is Lake Eu- Lake Eufaula dam site. 2550. faula, its 102,000 Tours of the hydroelectric facility acres spilling through (guaranteed to keep the kids quiet) start the hearts of two Monday-Friday at 10:30 a.m. and again counties and stretch- at 2 p.m.-a 20-minute trip through the If you're heading east ing from above Inter- workings of the dam, including the gen- from hIcAlester on state 40 south almost to Hartshorne. erators and control room, and a pretty U.S. 270, you'll pass The reservoir (it's too big to be called impressive elevator ride. (918) 484-5439. through Hartshorne, a "lake") offers a lot: fishing, boating, If you head on south after the tour, with its onion-domed scattered campgrounds maintained by toward Enterprise and Quinton, you'll Russian Orthodox the Corps of Engineerenot to mention soon reach State Highway 9, and can church, and past tiny two of the state's most complete resorts, loop back to Eufaula and Arrowhead. Gowen. (For trivia Fountainhead and Arrowhead. hunters: In Gowen once lived Lincoln Both resorts will cooperate for a Me- Perry, the Black character actor known morial Day weekend with a Western as "Step'n Fetchit" in the dark days of theme: cow-chip throwing contest, hay- This hlav RilcAlester, blatant stereotypes.) ride, barbecue-and the Spring Beauty south of Eufaula on If you turn north on winding State Volksmarch. Call Fountainhead, (918) U.S. 69, puts on two Highway 2, you'll reach Robbers Cave 689-2501 for more information. shows-one with a State Park, in the rugged San Bois On June 23 and 24, Arrowhead offers foreign flavor, one Mountains-a park with its very own the best seats on the lake for a regatta frankly patriotic. ghost story. that's the 1984 divisional championship Patriotism first: For Local legend has it that back when for Hobie Cat sailboats. The races, spon- Armed Forces Day, robbers roosted there, an admirer of sored by the Lake Eufaula Sailing Asso- May 5, the town, home to a tT.S.Army Belle Starr, "Fiddlin' Jim," was killed ciation, will draw 150-200 boats to sail a ammunition plant, puts on a two-day while he sat playing his fiddle at the triangular course completely in view of show that includes a large parade with cave's mouth. Some say that on moonlit the lodge's observation deck. artillery pieces, marching units, round- nights, he plays still. Three races will run Saturday, starting up clubs, Shriners.. ..A special event this Well, maybe. But there's no doubt at 1 p.m., and two on Sunday, starting at year is a visit from Secretary of the Army you can still scramble up the sandstone 10:30 a.m. John Marsh. escarpment to the old cave (now com- For reservations at Arrowhead (or any Now for the food: Pittsburg (hunty is pletely civilized); fish in Lake (:arlton, other state lodge), call toll free, 1-800- home to a sizeable number of Italian- formed when Fourche blaline Creek was 522-8565 in Oklahoma, 1-800-654-8240 Americans, whose ancestors came to dammed; camp out or stay in one of the in surrounding states. work the area's coal mines. The mincs park's cabins; and hike to your hcnrt's are gone, but the heritage lingers on, and content. ('I'he area is especially good for each May McAIester hosts an Italian fes- redbud and dogwood watchers.) tival to prove it-folk music, native cos- The park's number is (918) 465-2565. If you want to explore tumes, Italian games-and, of course, the late-spring beauty food. The festival, May 26-27 at Schiller of the Lake Eufaula Field on U.S. 69 Bypass south, will fill countryside without you up on pastry, pasta, sausage, cheese In the days of the risking getting lost or and bread-all Italian. Choctaw Nation, sev- ruining your shock If you're still hungry, the little town of eral roads crossed its absorbers, a good Krebs, just east of McAlester on State wild territory: the

L I jaunt is along what lo- Highway 31, is home to one of Oklaho- Texas Road, the Cal- cals call the Texanna Road, across U.S. ma's most famous restaurants, Pete's ifornia Road, the Fort 69 on State Highway 150 from Fountain- Place, a sort of Italian-style steak house Smith-Fort Towson head Resort. that stuffs you with pasta dishes before Mililary Road. This road, with some abrupt right an- your steak ever shows up. Also in town: But none has captured more people's gles, will take you past the Corps of an Italian bakery, Antonelli's, and imaginations than the old Butterfield Engineers' Belle Starr Park, the com- Mike's Grocery and Market, source of Overland Mail Line, which cut across munity of Texanna, Porum Landing (an- homemade Italian sausage. what is now Oklahoma between old

May-June '84 39 Skullyville and Colbert's Ferry, south- west of Durant, in the years 1858-1860. The building that housed one of the stops along the road, Edwards Store, eight miles northeast of present-day Red Oak off U.S. 270, still stands to mark the trail's passing. The oldest part of the structure (to the right of the breezeway) was built in 1850 of handhewn logs; the chimneys are na- tive stone, laid without mortar. Still owned by descendants of Thorn- as Edwards' wife, Nancy Hardaway, the house is no longer officially open to the public, but the drive past it through Bra- zil Creek Valley is still worthwhile. About three miles west of Edwards Store is the narrows, a scenic pass on the old Boggy Depot road. The best bet is to ask directions in the town of Red Oak.

Vikings in Oklahoma? Well, many people believe that Norse- men not only jour- neyed down the Poteau River about A.D. 1000, but took , 1time to carve cryptic runes into the face of a rock slab at 'the foot of Poteau hlountain. Over the years, the runes have been Heavener Runestone State Park variously interpreted; the current favor- ite is that they stand for a date, "Novem- ber 11, 1012." M'hatever they say, they're now protected by their own building and surrounded by Heavener Runestone State Park, open 8 a.m. to dark, seven days a week. To find the park, travel U.S. 59 to the four-way stop- light at the center of Heavener, turn east and follow the signs. (918) 653-2241. Another runestone, this one a portable size, was found just north of Heavener in 1967; it's now in the Kerr hluseum, five miles south of Poteau, along with arti- facts from Spiro Mounds and a great barbed-wire collection. The museum is in the late Robert S. Kerr's palatial rock ranch home. Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m., sev- - en days a week. Kiamichi River Raft Race Other area attractions: Looming over

40 Oklahoma TODAY TOI

Poteau, off U.S. 271, is Cavanal Hill, back in the '30s. ' along the length of the mountain, and billed as "the world's highest hill"- Today, its 54 miles unwind like a travelers can watch the gliders float 1,999 feet, with five miles of rugged road pavement ribbon from Talihina to above them, or drive to the landing and up to it and a fine view from the top. Mena, Arkansas, through the Ouachita jump sites, easily reached from town. Lake Wister State Park, nine miles south National Forest, cresting Rich and of Poteau on U.S. 270, offers cabins, Winding Stair mountains and passing boating, fishing, picknicking and camp- convenient turnarounds like Horsethief ing. (918) 655-7756. Springs; Emerald Vista and its camp- South of State High- grounds; and the Kerr Arboretum, about way 1, north of U.S. midway along the drive, with its nature 271 and east of State center and three short interpretive trails. Highway 2, lies a After World War 11, If you'd like to walk a little farther, geological formation an odd little industry the Ouachita National Recreation Trail ; with the odd title of grew up in the hills has 40 of its 175 miles inside Oklahoma. around Spiro: the The trail crosses the Skyline Drive sev- rounded, heavily Localwooded"the legendPotato slopes saysHills." werethe making (or "hand eral times; shorter hikes include the Old drawing") of novelty Military Road Loop, 12 miles that trace namedLl by early settlers because they re- glassware-vases, part of the old Fort Towson Military sembled the mounds they formed over swans and other Road, and the Cedar Lake Trail, four their potato harvest to keep it through piece-made from glass swirled with miles to and from Cedar Lake Recrea- the winter. Geologists call them Oklaho- bands of color. tion Area. (Cedar Lake is also the center ma's oldest mountains. A number of small factories, with their of a network of horseback trails that head They're wild and rugged and easy to heaps of scrap glass and their "glory as far off as the Peter Conser House-a get lost in, but you can take a short, holes" (homemade furnaces) dotted the 15.6-mile round trip.) foolproof excursion into the Potatoes, area. Today only one remains. For more information on the road and the Round Prairies drive that loops from It's called Central Glass Company, the trail, write the Choctaw Ranger Dis- Albion to near Tuskahoma. It's a mail and it's run by Glynn Underwood, trict, Heavener, OK 74937. and school-bus route and in good shape, whose father started in the business 25 though it does ford a shallow stream or years ago, after being trained in the ar- two. It also has no junctions to confuse a ea's first plant, run by one 0. C. newcomer. Ask at Albion for directions. Hamon. Talihina does more In the streambeds of the Potato Hills Central Glass' offices and retail shop than just mark the are dense silicate rocks, red, green, yel- are a mile and a half east of Spiro on start of the Skyline low, brown, blue and white. If you'd like State Highway 9. The shop, which sells Drive--every Memo- to gather a few, check with local land- concrete yard ornaments and other gift rial Day weekend owners first. items as well as the distinctive streaky Saturday it hosts the glass, is open from 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Mon- Kiamichi River Raft day-Saturday. (918) 962-275 1. If visitors Race, which sends want to see hand-drawn glass in the home-crafted rafts charging down the Near Tuskahoma, making, they can get directions at the Kiamichi from a point near Albion, just north of U.S. shop to the company's plant in Pocola. southeast of Talihina on U.S. 271, to a 271, stands a tall, point near Tuskahoma. square building, built The last couple of years, around 100 of native brick and rafts have taken part; the modest entry timber-the last capi- Its official title is fee (about $10) includes a "sumptuous tol of the Choctaw "Talimena Scenic free" barbecue at the finish line on the Nation. Drive," and the road- riverbank. If you'd like to join in, contact k!!!The building was finished in 1884 and maps list it as "State the Taldina American, P. 0. Box 37, used until 1906, when allotment brought Highway 1," but Talihina, OK 74571; (918) 567-2390. an end to the nation. Today, tribal gov- most people still call Also in the area that same weekend, ernment is conducted in Durant, and the it the Skyline Drive, there'll be people from six states jump- old capitol is a museum. This year it the name the CCC ing off Buffalo Mountain, just west of celebrates its 100th birthday. boys gave the first rough road they Talihina, when a regional hang gliding To mark the date, the Choctaws are carved across the top of the Ouachitas meet comes to town. Highway 1 goes putting on a centennial celebration on

May-June '84 41 the site, beginning May 3 with a fast- pitch softball tournament; running through Friday night, May 4, with Indi- an dancing, a talent show and all-night gospel singing; and winding up Saturday noon with a traditional Choctaw dinner, featuring dishes like tandie Mona (corn with pork) and batzaha (commonly called "shuck bread," cornmeal with beans or vegetables wrapped in clean corn shucks and boiled). Visitors are welcome. For more information, call the Choc- taw Tribal Complex, (405) 924-8280. Just about any way you go from Tus- kahoma, you'll hit pretty scenery. Just west is new Sardis Reservoir-and tiny Pine Creek Reservoir Clayton Lake, with one of the cleanest, quietest recreation areas in the state, run with military precision by "Sarge" Welch. (918) 569-7981. Just south of Clayton Lake, you can turn off into the Kiamichi Mountains on State Highway 144, past the Little River and Nashoba to Honobia (Ho-nubbyor O- nubby, depending on who you talk to). Before linking up with U.S. 259, 144 passes a turnoff to Battiest. If you're feeling adventurous, Weyerhauser log- ging roads will wind you around in the valley of the Glover River, the area's last major free-flowing stream.

- The last sizeable stand of virgin forest in Oklahoma lies just I off U.S. 259-safe I I within the boundaries of the McCurtain County Wilderness Area. '51'The area, more than 14,000 acres of Kiamichi-Ouachita mountains, is un- touched except for a primitive road, one residence and some fences. The western chunk, west of Broken Bow Reservoir, is open for exploration on foot. The great majority of the reserve, however, is on the lake's far side and must be reached by boat with a guide. Tours leave from the west-side boat landing at 10 a.m. on Friday, 10 a.m. Italian Festival, McAlester I and 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday and

- - 42 Oklahoma TODAY SOUTHEAST TOUR again Monday at 10 a.m. The excursions history of the forest from prehistory to changed its name to "Eagletown" and (not for the lazy) let walkers see the today, by Henry Rossoll, creator of moved farther west-taking its post of- country as it was made-holly, blue "Smokey the Bear." All events are free. fice, the oldest in Oklahoma, with it. beech, sweet gum and red and white oak Pertinent phone numbers: Broken But the impressive steamboat gothic on the lower slopes, shonleaf pine, hick- Bow Chamber of Commerce, (405) 584- house built by Choctaw chief Jefferson ory and post and blackjack oaks on the 3393; Beavers Bend, (405) 494-6300. Gardner in 1884 still stands, and is open uplands. In spring, redbud, dogwood for visitors weekdays and Saturdays 8 and a vivid succession of wildflowers col- a.m.-5 p.m. and Sundays 1-6. Admission or the landscape, and animals from squir- is charged. (405) 584-6588. rels and possums to deer, bobcat and If you came southeast (For an update on the famous Gardner feral hogs-not to mention a wealth of to fish but haven't Mansion bald cypress, known for years birds-make the scenery come alive. gotten lucky yet, or if as the largest tree in Oklahoma, see p. For more information, contact Gene you're just tired of 25.) Woods of the Department of Wildlife eating Frito chili pies Conservation, (405) 241-5272. while you look at June 6-9, Idabel fills scenery, Redwine's up with high-school I%Hickory Inn, near cowboys when the Broken Bow, has a suggestion. "World's Largest Ju- If you prefer your na- Promotions for the restaurant, run by nior Rodeo" comes to ture just a little less Carroll Redwine, former music coordina- the town's arena, and naturai, south of the tor for Seminole Junior College, read teen-agers from 10 McCurtain County "Dining, Theater, Live Entertain- states compete for Wilderness Area, off ment." Since November, they've staged prize money. There's a parade the first U.S. 259, are two of three plays, including Chekhov's "The day, and the rodeo begins each night at 8 the state's prettiest Marriage Proposal," by the McCurtain p.m. Call the Idabel Chamber of Com- parks-Hochatown, County Players--and musical entertain- merce, (405) 286-3305, for more facts. on Broken Bow Reservoir, and Beavers ment from full-blown bands to piano and While you're in the area, you might as Bend, with the Mountain Fork River guitar duos and vocalists on other nights. well soak up a little history: Try the spilling through its grounds. (The place also boasts "a baking chef, Museum of the Red River, on the U.S. Hochatown offers fishing, swimming a steak and chops chef, a salad chef and a 59 Bypass, known for its collection of and boating-plus hiking, camping and barbecue chef," so we're not talking prehistoric Caddoan artifacts. Hours are golf on a nine-hole course on the lake- microwaved chicken fry and a little er- 10 a.m.-noon and 1-5 p.m. Tuesday- shore. Beavers Bend lacks the golf satz Tammy Wynette on the side.) Friday and 1-5 p.m. weekends. (405) course but offers all the rest-plus 50 Hours for the Hickory Inn, a mile and 286-3616. rustic cottages and a naturalist program. a half north of the intersection of state Further afield is the Harris House, Beavers Bend also hosts a McCurtain highways 3 and 7 with U.S. 259, are 5-10 near Pleasant Hill off U.S. 259. Built by County-wide celebration, the Kiamichi p.m. Monday-Thursday and 5-11 p.m. Choctaw Supreme Court judge Henry Owa Chito Festival of the Forest, June Friday and Saturday. To see what's play- C. Harris right after the Civil War, the 21-22-23. There'll be woodsmen's con- ing when, call (405) 584-6913. home is still lived in by his descendants. tests like ax throwing, log chopping, Filled with antiques and mementoes, it pulpwood sawing, log birling (riding a is open by appointment. Call Mrs. Ruby log that's on water) and choker setting Near the west bank Harris, (405) 245-1 129. (binding logs and hauling them out of of the Mountain Fork timber). Less woodsy pastimes include River, seven miles canoe racing, tobacco spitting, turkey east of Broken Bow West of Idabel, off calling and blowgun contests. off U.S. 70, is the site U.S. 70, two miles On Friday night, Tulsa's Billy Parker of "Old Eagle northeast of Miller- and his Country Cousins play in the TownV-one of the ton, is another site park's amphitheater, 7-9:30 p.m., and at first towns founded in important to the a dance, 9-midnight. Saturday, country the Choctaw Nation, site of the Betha- Choctaw Nation, headliner Moe Bandy plays 8-10 p.m. bara Crossing, where many Choctaws Wheelock Mission. There'll be a week-long art show in ended their Trail of Tears, and the mis- Scattered around a the Forest Heritage Center, where visi- sion founded there in 1832. leafy quadrangle are the remaining tors can also view dioramas that tell the The mission is gone, and the town has buildings of Wheelock Academy, found-

May-June '84 43 ed by missionary Alfred Wright in 1832. fort plans a celebration to go along with year, though--Showmen's Rest. A part In 1842, the Choctaw Council estab- the town of Fort Towson's homecoming. of the town's municipal cemetery is set lished a seminary for girls there, which Plans include mountaineers, a Civil War aside for old troupers only. Instead of the was destroyed in the Civil War, re- re-enactment group and the Indian Na- standard clasped hands or lilies, monu- opened in 1882 and closed for good in tion Gunfighters. Call the fort, (405) ments are decorated with leaping ti- 1955. 873-2634, for more information. gers.. .a hippopotamus.. .a performing Until recently, the academy buildings elephant.. .a circus tent. At the entrance is a special monu- seemed doomed to collapse, but today, If you're looking for ment, carved with both elephant and under a matching grant obtained by the one word to describe tribe, young Choctaw men and women tent, and the words, "A Tribute to All what's going on in Showmen Under God's Big Top." are doing critical work on the roof and southeast Oklahoma's Two good times to visit Hugo: May exterior of Pushmataha Hall, where forests these days, 31-June 1-2, for their 23rd annual PRCA boarding students once lived. the word would have rodeo and third annual homecoming, Also at Wheelock is a foursquare, stee- to be Weytdauer. and the third week in October, for Frisco pled limestone structure, Wheelock m The giant forest- Days, when you can tour the town's Church, built in 1846 and still in use- products company runs two operation* Frisco Railroad Museum, in "the largest the oldest church in Oklahoma. a sawmill at Wright City and a paper mill two-story brick depot between St. Louis at Valliant. Both offer tours. and Dallas." (The circuses should be To ask about tours of the Valliant mill, Between Valliant and home by then, too.) one of the world's largest producers of Hugo, U.S. 70 dips For more information, call the Hugo "kraft" paper (the stuff brown paper deep into history- Chamber of Commerce, (405) 326-75 11. passing close by both sacks are made of), call (405) 933-7211, the oldest house in or write P. 0. Box 890, Valliant, OK Oklahoma and the ru- 74764. Forest tours that show off the Just north of Atoka on ins of our second-old- company's logging operations and plan- U.S. 69 lies visible est military post. tations of pine seedlings can also be evidence of the Indi- The Choctaw Chiefs House, built for booked through that office. an Nations' bloody Chief Thomas LeFlore in the early Tours of the Wright City sawmill, Civil War days, the 1830s, holds the title of "oldest home which cover everything from the hard- state's only Confeder- still standing," though only one half of wood sawmill to the making of plywood, ate cemetery. Near- the dog-trot cabin is original. The house are booked by calling (405) 981-2211, or by, at the site of Fort lies in a green valley near Swink on a writing the mill at Star Rt., Box 100, Middle (or Muddy) Boggy campground, blacktop road; follow the signs. Wright City, OK 74766. All tours must a skirmish was fought in February 1864 The cabin, restored by the Oklahoma be scheduled in advance. between Union troops and rebel forces Historical Society, is open 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Nearby the Valliant mill, off U.S. 70 that included Seminole, Choctaw and Tuesday-Friday and 1-5 p.m. weekends. southwest of town, stands an old water- Chickasaw soldiers. (Southeast of Atoka, (405) 873-2492. powered grist mill. On the site, the near Boggy Depot on the old Texas Just down the way, a mile northeast of spirituals "Swing Low, Sweet Chariot" Road, another was fought April 24,1865 the town of Fort Towson, lie the ruins of and "Steal Away to Jesus" came into -15 days after Lee's surrender.) old Fort Towson, built in 1824. The site being. Also in the area: Pine Creek Though the cemetery is marked, it was headquarters for Confederate Maj. State Park. (405) 876- 3298. isn't easy to spot. A more reliable land- Gen. S. B. Maxey during the Civil War, mark is the Farmer's Market building; and it was at nearby Doaksville that the cemetery lies beside it. The market Cherokee Brig. Gen. Stand Watie surren- When the circus itself offers local produce and handmade dered in June 1865-the last Confeder- comes to Hugo, it crafts and is usually open 9 a.m.-5 p.m. ate general to lay down arms. After the comes home. Or at every day. (The market also houses the war, Fort Towson was abandoned. least that's true for Atoka Chamber of Commerce.) The site has been excavated, and re- two circuse-the Al If you visit Atoka July 24-28, you can covered items and the recently recon- G. Kelly and the Car- also take part in Atoka County's Western structed sutler's store are on view. son & Barnes (the Heritage Week-complete with arts and Hours: 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 3largest tent circus in crafts, a rodeo, a carnival and, on the 1-5 p.m. Sunday. the world), both of which winter there. 25th, a street dance on Armadillo Boule- A good time to visit both sites might There's evidence of Hugo's claim to vard. Call the Chamber, (405) 889-2410, be the weekend of June 9, when the old the title "Circus Town" that's around all for more information. Dl

44 Oklahoma TODAY MUUle Loaders sand sprlng Second Annual Indian Heritage Days, June kick the ball. Kick-off is 1 p.m. 1, 2 and 3 at the town's fairgrounds. Other events scheduled for Sunday in- Primitive dress and primitive firearms The event is sponsored by the Miami clude a 10 a.m. gospel sing and canoe and raft will be right on target at the 26th annual Chamber of Commerce, the Cherokee tribe races down the Neosho River, which runs Tulsa Muzzle Loading Firearms Matches and the eight members of the Inter-Tribal alongside the fairgrounds. May 25, 26 and 27 at the John Zink Range, Council-the Miami, Ottawa, Seneca-Cayu- For more information, contact the Mi- north of Sand Springs. ga, Modoc, Wyandotte, Quapaw, Eastern ami Chamber of Commerce, (918) 542-4481. Sponsored by the Osage Territory Muz- Shawnee and Peoria tribes. Hosts for the zle Loaders, the event will feature 31 fire- 1984 celebration are the Cherokees. arms matches in 11 categories, including a Indian Heritage Days actually begins Confederate Air Force Clinton splitting ball match. (Contestants in that ' May 31 with Camp Day-the day the Indian match hit two targets by splitting their tribes set up their tents in the camp- History flies in the skies above Clinton shot on a double-edged axe blade.) grounds adjacent to the fairgrounds. Tribes May 27, when the first Western Oklahoma The John Zink Range is located north from Canada, Mexico and throughout the Veteran's Air Show gets underway at the of Sand Springs on State Highway 97. Regis- U.S. are expected. Clinton-Sherman Industrial Air Park. tration begins at 10 a.m. May 25, with the On Friday morning, a three-day arts The main attraction of the air show, opening match starting at noon. The final and crafts show will open in the fairgrounds which is part of the Clinton Eighth Grade match begins at 2 p.m. May 27. For more exhibition building, featuring about 100 Memorial Day celebration, is a perfor- information, contact Clyde Good at (918) mance by the Confederate Air Force. This quixotically named group of pilots is dedi- cated to the preservation of aircraft used in World War 11, and squadrons are located rail of Tears Tsa-La-G throughout the country. I The CAF, also called the "Ghost One of the most popular musicals of all Squadron," will present a two-and-a-half- times, Annie Get Your Gun, opens June 13 at hour air show, flying planes that made the Tsa-La-Gi Theatre at the Cherokee aviation history from 1939 to 1945. The per- Heritage Center near Tahlequah. formance will include mock WWII "dog- The Rodgers and Hammerstein musi- fights" using simulated combat demolitions. cal featuring Annie Oakley and the Wild Flights begin at 1 p.m. West Show will be presented outdoors Before the show, visitors may view air- Wednesday and Friday evenings through Au- craft provided by the Confederate Air Force, gust 17. as well as the C-5 Galaxy, the world's On Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and largest aircraft; the C-141 Starlift; a T-37 jet Saturday evenings, the Tsa-La-Gi Theatre from Vance Air Force Base; and the F-4

will... continue...-.----- its-~- 15-vear-- tradition of ore- Phantom jet. senting the Cherokee drama, Trail of Tean, Admission is $5 for adults and $2 for in its outdoor amphitheater. The 1984 children 5 to 16. There is a discount for season marks the second presentation of the senior citizens, and no charge for Viet version written by James Vance. It was Nam veterans wearing an item of their uni- first staged in 1983, and covers a slightly form and naming their combat unit. (All different time period than that of Tsa-La- artists. Art on display will include Indian pot- spectators should bring lawn chairs or blan- Gi's earlier play, written by Kermit Hunter. tery, beadwork, hand-woven baskets, kets to sit on.) Trail of Tean opens June 9 and closes wood cawing, macrame, Indian ceramics, For more information concerning the August 18. dance shawls, silver-work and even hand- Western Oklahoma Veteran's Air Show, con- Adult tickets are priced at $6, $6.50 and made flutes. tact David Cleek at (405) 323-4884. $7. Children's tickets are half price. Curtain The celebration is also filled with danc- time is 8:30 p.m. For more information, ing. Gourd dances begin at 2 and 6 p.m. contact the Tsa-La-Gi box office at (918)456- Friday-and again at 2 and 6 p.m. Satur- 6007. day and 3 and 6 p.m. Sunday. Evening per- Next Issue: Meet some Oklahomans who formances of men's feather dancing and spend their time jumping off Buffalo Moun- traditional costume dancing-and buckskin tain. Learn why the Sooner State has some and cloth dancing by the women-begin of the world's most theatrical sunsets, and

each night- at 8 p.m. how you can catch them on film. Travel to Where can you go to experience an Sunday afternoon will set the men the Grant family's bluegrass festival in authentic Indian wedding, barbecued buffa- against the women in a game of Indian foot- Hugo-and to Freedom for the annual lo, gourd dancing, canoe races and Indian ball, in which the women are allowed to Chuckwagon Feed put on by the Cimarron football-all in one weekend? run and throw the ball to reach the goal post, Cowboys Association, for the pure pleasure 'I'ry Miami, Oklahoma, the site of the while the men must remain stationary and of listening to those cowboys talk.

May-June '84 45 1-20 "Romantic Comedy," Gaslight Dinner Theatre, Tulsa 4-7, 10-12 "Bus Stop," Pottawatomie County Production Co., Tecumseh MAY Diversity in Oklahoma's Historic Architecture, 10-27 "One Flew over the Cuckoo's Nest," Jewel Box Cleveland County Historic House, Norman Theatre, OKC Ivar Ivask Collages, OU Museum of Art, Norman 11-13, 17-19 "Seven Year Itch," Playhouse, Ponca City "The Spiro Culture: Prehistoric Gateway, 11-June 3, 15, 17-19 "Summer and Smoke," Lawton Community Modem-day Enigma," Public Library, Tahlequah Theatre, John Denney Playhouse, Lawton Incurable Collectors Sale, Philbrook, Tulsa 16-20 "The Glass Menagerie," Tulsa Alliance for Ceramics by Kathy Beesen and Paintings by Jim Classical Theatre, Performing Arts Center, Tulsa Fallier, Governor's Gallery, State Capitol, OKC 17-19, 25-26, "The Tempest," Gaslight Theatre, Enid Paintings by Frank McCarthy, Sculptures by Grant June 1-2 Speed, Gilcrease Museum, Tulsa 18-19 "A Raisin in the Sun," Community Theatre, 1984 Craft Competition, Five Civilized Tribes Failview Museum, Muskogee 24-June 24 "An Almost Perfect Person," Gaslight Dinner Botanical Illustrations 11, Stovall Museum, Norman Theatre, Tulsa 14-Aug. 14 Folk and Vernacular Architecture of the Southern 31-June 10 "Hot L Baltimore," Actor's Theatre, Tulsa Plains, Oklahoma Historical Society, OKC 15-July 29 "A Sense of Place: Photographs by Goodwin 1-16 "Bullshot Cmmmond," American Theatre Co., Harding and Bernard Plossu," Oklahoma Museum Brook Theatre, Tulsa of Art, OKC 1-16 "Amadeus," Theatre Tulsa, Delaware Playhouse, 20-July 15 "Nature's FormsINature's Forces: The Art of Tulsa Alexandre Hogue," Philbrook Art Center, Tulsa 1-July 1 "Accommodations," Gaslight Dinner Theatre, 24-July 28 'The Spiro Culture: Prehistoric Gateway, Tulsa Modem-day Enigma," Chisholm Trail Museum, 7-10, 14-17 "Sugar," Little Theatre, Muskogee Kingfisher 13-Aug. 18 "Will Rogers at Home," (Wed. & Sat. only), Rogers State College, Claremore 20-24, 27-30 "California Suite," Cabaret Supper Theatre, Fort JUNE 1-24 "Twenty-five Years of Collecting, I," OU Sill Museum of Art, Norman 1-July 5 Paintings by Mary Wilson and Sculpture by Bob Bell, Governor's Gallery, State Capitol, OKC I-July 15 Ida Kohlmeyer Retrospective, Oklahoma Art Center, OKC 4-30 Exhibit of Neva Quaya Flutes, The Galleria,. Norman MAY 5, 10 and 12 "Pirates of Penzance," Tulsa Opera, Performing 4-July 28 Native American Indian Art, Mabee- Gerrer Arts Center, Tulsa Museum of Art, Shawnee 6 "Fantasia," Bartlesville Symphony, Community 8-9 National Academy of Western Art, Cowboy Hall of Center, Bartlesville' Fame, OKC 6 "Cosi Fan Tutti," Cimarron Circuit Opera, 10-July 1 Trail of Tears Art Show, Cherokee Heritage Chickasha Center Museum, Tahlequah 7 Young People's Concert, Tulsa Philharmonic, 12-July 29 "Marjorie Strider: Ten Years, 1970-1980," OU Tulsa Zoo Museum of Art, Norman 9-13, 16-20 & 23-26 "Applause," Cabaret Supper Theatre, Fort Sill 10-12 "How to Succeed in Business without Really Trying," Community Theatre, Woodward DRAMA 10-20 "Jesus Christ Superstar," Oklahoma Theater I Center,. OKC 11 "Placido Domingo in Concert," Civic Center MAY 1-5 "Mass Appeal," American Theatre Co., Brook Music Hall, OKC Theatre, Tulsa 17 Classics Concert, Tulsa Philharmonic, Chapman Oklahoma TODAY Music Hall, Performing Arts Center, Tulsa Horse Show, Expo Center, Shawnee 17-19 "Cabaret," Community Center, Bartlesville 18-20 Heart of Oklahoma Futurity Horse Show, Expo 17-20 "Charlie Brown," children's performance, Theatre Center, Shawnee Tulsa, Delaware Playhouse, Tulsa 21 Enid Horse Show Assn. Open All-Adult Horse 21-22, 24-26 "Annie," Red Carpet Community Theatre, Elk Show, Fairgrounds, Enid City 25 Oklahoma Paint Horse Club Futurity and Maturity Race Trials, Ross Meadows, Ada JUNE 2, 9, 16, "Saturday Evenrng Live," Oklahoma Museum of 26 Golden Opportunity Horse Sale, Tulsa 23 & 30 Art, OKC 26-27 Indian Territory Appaloosa Club Horse Show, 9-10 "New York Debut Encore," Tulsa Ballet, Expo Center, Shawnee Performing Arts Center, Tulsa 9-Aug. 18 "Annie Get Your Gun," (Wed., Fri.), Tsa-La-Gi Theatre, Cherokee Heritage Center, Tahlequah JUNE 1-2 Mustang Roundup Club & Indian Territory 9-Aug. 25 "Oklahoma!", Discoveryland Amphitheatre, Tulsa Cowboy & Pioneer Assn. Rodeo, Oologah 12-23 "Annie," Lyric Theatre, OKC 2 Sunflower Classic Appaloosa Futurity and Maturity 26-July 7 "The Unsinkable Molly Brown," Lyric Theatre, Race Finals, Blue Ribbon Downs, Sallisaw OKC 8-10 Artillery Hunt Horse Show, Fort Sill 28-Aug. 12 "The Fantasticks," Saslight Dinner Theatre, 9 Shebester QH Futurity Race Finals, Blue Ribbon Tulsa Downs, Sallisaw 14-15 Poor Boy Paint Horse Show, Fairgrounds, OKC 14-16 Will Rogers Stampede Rodeo, Will Rogers Arena, FAIRS & FESTIVALS Clarernore 15 Range Riders Roundup Club Playday, Expo Center, Shawnee MAY Choctaw Capitol Centennial, Tuskahoma 15-17 Oil Capital Paso Fino International Horse Show, No Man's Land Pioneer Days, Guymon Expo Square, Tulsa Armed Forces Day Celebration, McAlester 16 Neil Gwaltney Quarter Horse Sale, Expo Center, 6th Annual Rendezvous, Gilcrease Museum, Tulsa Shawnee Art Festival, McClain Rogers Park, Clinton 21-23 Washita Valley Pioneer Days Rodeo, Pauls Valley Kolache Festival, Prague 21-23 4th Annual Trail Riders Rodeo, Cushing Blessing of the Animals, OKC Zoo 25 Oklahoma Paint Horse Club Futurity and Maturity Spring Arts Festival, County Fair Building, Race Finals, Ross Meadows, Ada Woodward 12-13 May Fair, Andrews Park, Norman 17-20 Mayfest, Downtown, Tulsa 18 Armed Forces Day Parade, Lawton 26 Kiamichi River Raft Race, Talihina 26-27 Italian Festival, Schiller Field, McAlester MAY 4 Landis & Company Magic Show, Community 31-June 1 & 2 Santa Fe Trail Daze, Boise City Center, Bartlesville 8-Aug. 18 Ancient Cherokee Village Tour, weekends, 1-3 Sunfest, Sooner Park, Bartlesville Cherokee Heritage Center, Tahlequah 1-3 Indian Heritage Days, Miami 16-19 Big Eight Baseball Championships, Fairgrounds, 1-3 Art Fest 9, Activity Center, Guymon OKC 2 International Life Celebration, Fuqua Park & 19 Oklahoma City Zoo Run. OKC Stephens Co. Historical Museum, Duncan 26 Western Bar-B-Q and Dance, Lake Murray Resort, 8-10 NW Oklahoma Harvest Days Celebration, Ardmore Woodward 27 Western Oklahoma Veterans Air Show, Clinton- 9-10 Canterbury Art Festival, Edmond Sherman Industrial Air Park, Clinton 14-July 1 Tulsa Shakespeare Festival, Alliance for Classical Theatre, Tulsa 21-23 Kiamichi Owa Chito Festival of the Forest, JUNE James C. Leake International Antique, Classic and Beavers Bend State Park, Broken Bow Special Interest Car Auction, Expo Square, Tulsa Oklahoma Summer Arts Institute, Quartz Mountain State Park, Altus Barbed Wire Show, Sooner Fashion Mall, Norman RODEOS & Gem and Mineral Show, Expo Square, Tulsa HORSE EVENTS Paper Airplane Contest, Omniplex, OKC "u ma Riverside Run, River Parks, Tulsa "Slim Goodbody Appears Live," Kirkpatrick MAY 1-6 Johnnie Lee Wills Stampede Rodeo, Expo Square, Center, OKC Tulsa Ringling Brothers, Barnum & Bailey Circus, 3-5 Western Days Rodeo, Jenks Myriad, OKC 6 Range Riders Playday, Expo Center, Shawnee Oklahoma Grand Prix, Western Hills Resort, 6 Sooner State Morgan Horse Assn. All Breed Horse Wagoner Show, Fairgrounds, OKC J. M. Davis Gun and Knife Show, J. M. Davis Gun 11-13 Oklahoma Paint Horse ClubNouth and Open Museum, Claremore May-June '84