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The Digital Media Phenomenon of Youtube Beauty Gurus: the Case of Bubzbeauty

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The Digital Media Phenomenon of Youtube Beauty Gurus: the Case of Bubzbeauty The Digital Media Phenomenon of YouTube Beauty Gurus: The Case of Bubzbeauty Florencia García-Rapp TESI DOCTORAL UPF / 2017 Directors de la tesi: Dr. Carles Roca Cuberes Department of Communication This thesis is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Spanish (CC BY-NC-SA 3.0) License. The images presented here have been made available to the public and are included as third-party material in a new work for the purpose of criticism and/or review. The images are directly referenced and critiqued, thus fair dealing applies, and their use falls under this copyright exception. The publications included are copyrighted. Copyright has been transferred to the respective publishers. To Aiti and Heims Acknowledgments Gracias a Dios, por las bendiciones y la vida. A mi familia. A mi abuela Lidia, la mujer más chiquita pero la más grande. Por tantas risas contagiadas. A mi esposo Heimo, por su incansable ayuda y compañía. Por darme lo más lindo de la vida: Aitana. Con ella en mi panza viajando a conferencias y escribiendo en casa. Con ella a todos lados dándome energía y motivación para alcanzar mis objetivos. Éste, como todos mis logros, se lo dedico a ustedes dos. A Carles Roca, mi director, quien me motivó a hacer la tesis por compendio, le agradezco la paciencia, el confiar en mí y, por sobre todo, la libertad. Many thanks to Alice Marwick for her guidance and warm welcome during my research stay at Fordham University in New York and for reading many drafts. Thanks to Sean Redmond, Toija Cinque, and David Marshall, who gave me my first office, for their encouraging words during my visit to Deakin University in Melbourne. A todos esos compañeros y amigos académicos de todo el mundo que, por estar, hacen de las conferencias viajes inolvidables y momentos entrañables. Abstract This thesis is submitted as a compilation of five publications. With the aim of contributing to the theorizing of digital media culture and practices, I explore the current phenomenon of online popularity as exemplified by influential personalities like YouTube beauty gurus. The study focuses on a popular beauty content producer, Bubz, and her channel Bubzbeauty. Looking at content, meaning, and interactions through qualitative, ethnographically-oriented research, the thesis sheds light into the politics of success of YouTube’s beauty community. I examine content characteristics and affordances for the creation and maintenance of viewers’ attention. I conceptualize community-specific norms that guide practices, particularly those related to self-presentation and identity-management and their implications for everyday celebrity practice. In addition, the value of her celebrity position as well as the uses of her content for the purposes of inspiration, creativity and identity work are thematized. Keywords: online popularity, vlogs, beauty tutorials, YouTube beauty gurus, online communities, legitimacy, authenticity Resumen Esta tesis es depositada como un compendio de cinco publicaciones. Con el objetivo de contribuir a teorizar culturas y prácticas en medios digitales, exploro el actual fenómeno de popularidad online tomando como ejemplo el caso de personalidades influyentes como gurús de belleza de YouTube. El estudio se centra en una reconocida productora de contenidos de belleza, Bubz, y su canal Bubzbeauty. Se analizan contenidos, significados e interacciones a través de un estudio cualitativo, desde una perspectiva etnográfica, y buscando entender las ideas implícitas sobre popularidad de la comunidad de belleza. Examino características y funciones del contenido audiovisual para la creación y continuidad de la atención de la audiencia. Conceptualizo normas específicas de la comunidad que guían prácticas como la presentación y el manejo de la imagen propio de la gurú y sus consecuencias para la performance diaria de celebrity. Además, se explica el valor de su posición de celebridad y los usos de su contenido para inspiración, creatividad e identidades de usuarios. Palabras clave: popularidad online; vlogs, tutoriales de belleza, gurús de belleza en YouTube, comunidades online, legitimidad, autenticidad According to the normative established July 7th, 2010 and modified in October 13th, 2015, the following thesis is presented as a compilation of publications. The requirements as set by the academic commission of the doctoral program in Communication are as follows. Alternative A: • The thesis must present three academic articles (published or accepted for publication) in journals indexed by Web of Science (ISI) or Scopus. • The PhD candidate must be the first author of all articles. • At least one article must be in English I am hereby submitting five publications in English: four articles (published) and one book chapter (accepted for publication, in press). Extended abstract This thesis is submitted as a compilation of five publications. With the aim of contributing to the theorizing of digital media culture and practices, I explore the current phenomenon of online popularity as exemplified by influential personalities like YouTube beauty gurus. Looking at content, meaning, and interactions through qualitative, ethnographically-oriented research, the thesis sheds light into the politics of success of YouTube’s beauty community. The study focuses on a popular beauty content producer, Bubz, and her channel Bubzbeauty. The first and second articles examine the affordances of the guru’s uploaded videos for achieving and sustaining online popularity through subscriptions and views. The first publication introduces a basic (tutorials and vlogs) content typology and the second a more developed one (content-oriented, market-oriented, motivational and relational videos) as well as a viewer typology (casual viewers and loyal fans). I argue that her market value as a renowned guru is built through her know-how expressed in straightforward tutorials. Conversely, her social value as an interesting, trustworthy personality is fostered by intimate vlogs, which renew attention and help maintain the interest first generated by tutorials, leading to treasured subscribers. In addition, I assess the role of views and subscriptions as platform-based commodities. The third publication arranges the proposed content typology in a scale of increasing intimacy and considers user reactions to her most personal videos. I contend that Bubz’s videos foster the activation of three different types of intimacy along the reception and user engagement with her content. With the fourth publication, I aim to conceptualize central community-specific dynamics and practices, particularly those related to self-presentation and identity-management and their affordances for legitimized online popularity. I explain how the guru’s successful online persona is based on a performative blend of relatable, down-to-earth values paired with a more aspirational and worthy of emulation side. The fifth publication addresses issues of legitimacy, expertise and merit, as well as local expectations regarding online self-presentation, according to implicit and explicit community norms as disclosed by viewers in comments and portrayed by Bubz’s own visual and textual narratives. It examines the relevance of authenticity for a deserved celebrity position. The article underlines the importance of performing and living by a certain community-defined authenticity that leads to, and sustains, a legitimized popularity position. To finalize, I argue against the banalization of online production and reception practices as displayed by the analyzed community of interest. In contrast to cynical, reductionist approaches to popular culture, I highlight instead the relevance of user-centered approaches where entertainment and information are legitimate reasons to produce and engage with online beauty content and personal vlogs. Table of Contents Introduction: Sustained Popularity in the Age of Viral Videos................1 Objectives.................................................................................................6 Research Questions..................................................................................7 Theoretical Framework............................................................................7 New celebrities on social media.......................................................................................11 Tutorials and vlogs on YouTube.....................................................................................12 Audience and performance...............................................................................................13 Effort and the success myth.............................................................................................14 Hierarchy and the balancing of tensions.........................................................................16 Uses of celebrity..................................................................................................................17 Definitions of key concepts..............................................................................................17 Methodological Considerations and Methods........................................19 Research paradigms, epistemologies, and ‘a particular sensitivity’..............................19 ‘Being there’: Particularities of studying YouTube........................................................24 Data collection, analysis and interpretation: How I proceeded...................................25 Publication List.......................................................................................31
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