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No Longer Spotless

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No Longer Spotless by Steve Folkman, AHA director Despite unaccommodating weather and determined poachers, my ultimate hunting experience reached its pinnacle on Day 14. I was able to take a big, beautiful leopard. Standing in Tanzania, over Jill’s left shoulder is Rwanda and to her right is Uganda. A valley in the middle divides the two. s I sat in the grass leopard While the weather was typical As I lifted it to unchamber the This particular quest started blind, I couldn’t help but Africa — 90s during the day and round he whispered, “In the in Chicago on Sept. 21. Mom, A roll through my mind 70s at night — it rained every hole.” I had not sensed the Jill and I flew to Amsterdam the events that had passed afternoon in this beautifully approaching leopard. The bou and then on to Kilimanjaro during the last 14 days. I was green vegetative corner of bou birds cried in the distance International Airport in Arusha, starting to wonder if I was Tanzania, causing the leopards to and the weavers quickly left Tanzania, Africa. going to get an opportunity at a sit tight like barn cats in a storm. their perch above us. I slid the After two long flights, more leopard, any leopard, let alone The “boys” (safari staff) had rifle through the oval hole in than 23 hours of travel and eight a big one. I kept thinking about set bait the day before, and as the grass blind and focused hours of time change, we were what Raoul told me when we luck would have it, a hungry through the scope. off to Ibanda on the morning booked the safari. “If you hunt tom hit that night. So we built a There he appeared near of Sept. 23. This short 2½ hour hard and ‘Lady Luck’ is with you, grass blind and held out for the the bait in all his splendor — airplane ride took us over the you may get a leopard to hit bait, afternoon. Waiting and watching the leopard. Serengeti and Lake Victoria, and if you do, it will be a big cat.” the weaver birds in the tree This was the moment I had and then to the northwest We had baits hanging, 13 of above to pass the time, it looked long awaited. What started as a corner of Tanzania. Ibanda is them over a 100 square kilometer to be another dry run. Tomorrow desire 10 years prior and grew bordered by the Kagera River (sq. km) tract. Leopards had hit would be Day 15, and we would after an unsuccessful but eventful with Rwanda to the southwest a couple, but so had poachers need to move on Day 16 to first safari hunt seven years ago and Uganda to the northwest. taking the wild game as food get my wife, Jill, and my mom, turned into an obsession to Yes, we were within eyesight for survival. Lorna, to their photo safari. hunt what many consider to be at times of where the civil As the light faded and the the most cunning animal in the unrest in the 1990s occurred sun set, Webby, the professional world. The culmination of my in Rwanda. Webby told us that hunter, told me, “Get your gun.” hunting career was now. My shot it was a daily event to transport hit the mark. 100 women and children (that swam the Kagera to safety) to the United Nations’ refugee camp in Kibingo, some 25 miles to the 48 HEREFORD WORLD / January 2007 www.hereford.org The Oldoinyo Lengai, or “Mountain of God” volcano, is one of the many Serengeti National Park attractions that wowed Jill and Mom on their photo safari. One look at this guy and you know he’s serious. The lion truly is “King” of the Serengeti. We were fortunate to experience the Maasai culture in the Serengeti. The Maasai people are nomadic farmers, primarily of cattle and goats. east. The tens of thousands who Mozambique. The rift is a fault in lost their lives in Rwanda in the the Earth’s crust that dominates 90s and during Idi Amin’s Uganda much of Eastern Africa. This is regime in the 70s and 80s were where Jill and Mom were able in our minds as we enjoyed our to visually experience Africa, Ibanda stay. specifically Tanzania’s wildlife in This tremendously game-rich their natural environment. area that was shared with us has The Maasai culture is realized left an unforgettable impression, throughout the Serengeti, where from the herds of waterbuck, roan nomadic farmers graze their free- and cape buffalo to the baboons, range livestock and the young reedbuck, topi and wary bushbuck. men protect their herds from Then there were the sleek impala lions with spears. These wonderful and the oribi that seemed to people were recognized in their prance and bounce to the evasive colorful clothing as in National leopards all in an unfenced, free- Geographic magazine. ranging environment. It was also here that the Day 16 found us back at the “Circle of Life” was sensed when 10,000-foot grass strip, the same lions fed on zebras and plains one the Tanzanian Air Force took game, and elephants shielded over in the early 90s. We had to their young ones. catch a bush plane back to the From Ngorongoro Crater east where Jill and Mom would to the south where the last start their five-day photo safari of the black rhinoceros roam of the Tarangire, Lake Manyara to Oldoinyo Lengai (Maasai One of the most beautiful pictures captured on the photo safari was this of two zebras and Serengeti national parks for Mountain of God) to the in the Serengeti. We were constantly in awe of the amazing wildlife of Tanzania. and the Ngorongoro Crater area. north; the Serengeti is where I continued on south to hunt most Tanzanian visitors place other game. their attention. It is the largest farmland exists, producing Tanzania at its fullest, our safari Lake Manyara, where national park in Tanzania, some coffee, wheat, bananas and came to a close. While I have thousands of pink flamingos are 15,000 sq. km in size and noted tobacco. Arusha lies just west of fond memories of my hunt, it found, is located centrally in the for its annual migration of zebra, one of the Seven Wonders of the is the native culture that will Great Rift Valley, which stretches wildebeest and plains game. World, Mount Kilimanjaro. It forever remain with me. HW over 10,000 km from Turkey to The Serengeti is west of was here where we started and the mouth of the Zambezi River in Arusha where some of the richest after three weeks of experiencing www.hereford.org January 2007 / HEREFORD WORLD 49.
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