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Hofmann-De Keijzer R Et Al. 2013.Pdf Kapitel 6: Expertenberichte 6.1 Die Farben und Färbetechniken der prähistorischen Textilien aus dem Salzbergbau Hallstatt Chapter 6: Analysis reports 6.1 The colours and dyeing techniques of prehistoric textiles from the salt mines of Hallstatt REGINA HOFMANN-DE KEIJZER, Maarten R. van BOMMEL, INEKE JOOSTEN, ANNA Hartl, Art NÉSS PROAÑO GAIBOR, ANDREAS G. HEISS, Robert KRALOFSKY, RUDOLF ERLACH, SUZAN DE GROOT Die blauen, gelben, grünen, olivgrünen, Blue, yellow, green, olive-green, red-brown, rotbraunen, dunkelbrauen und schwarzen dark brown and black – the textile finds from Hallstätter Textilfunde der Bronze- und Eisenzeit Bronze and Iron Age Hallstatt display the sind Zeugnisse der Farbenvielfalt prähistorischer colour diversity of prehistoric textiles. These Textilien. Dank der konservierenden Wirkung des objects and their colours have survived due to Salzes und des im Salzbergwerk herrschenden the preservative effects of salt and the constant konstanten Klimas blieben die Textilien und ihre climatic conditions in the mines. They allow Farben erhalten. Sie ermöglichen einen Blick in throwing a glance on the beginnings of textile den Anfang der Textilfärberei im europäischen dyeing in Europe. Raum. The Hallstatt textiles first underwent dye Im Jahre 2001 fanden die ersten analysis in 2001 (WALTON ROGERS 2001). farbstoffanalytischen Untersuchungen an Subsequently, between 2002 and 2012, various Hallstatt-Textilien statt (WALTON ROGERS interdisciplinary research projects examined 2001). Zwischen 2002 und 2012 widmeten coloured Bronze and Iron Age textile fragments sich verschiedene interdisziplinäre Forschungs- from the Hallstatt salt mines. The projects projekte der Untersuchung von farbigen bronze- brought together the Natural History Museum und eisenzeitlichen Textilfragmenten aus dem Vienna, the University of Applied Arts Vienna, Salzbergbau Hallstatt. Dabei kooperierten the Cultural Heritage Agency of the Netherlands, das Naturhistorische Museum Wien mit der and the University of Natural Resources and Universität für angewandte Kunst Wien, der Life Sciences Vienna. The dyeing techniques Cultural Heritage Agency of the Netherlands of the Hallstatt textiles were investigated in five und der Universität für Bodenkultur Wien. projects (Table 1). The project team published Die Färbetechniken der Hallstatt-Textilien the results in HOFMANN-DE KEIJZER et al. wurden in fünf Projekten untersucht (2004 ff.), in BICHLER et al. (2005), in JOOSTEN (Tabelle 1). Das Projektteam publizierte die et al. (2006), in GRÖMER (2007) and in JOOSTEN Untersuchungsresultate in HOFMANN-DE – VAN BOMMEL (2007). Publications of the KEIJZER et al. (2004 ff.), in BICHLER et al. HallTexFWF research results in international (2005), in JOOSTEN et al. (2006), in GRÖMER journals are in preparation (HARTL et al., (2007) und in JOOSTEN – VAN BOMMEL forthcoming). 136 Regina Hofmann-de Keijzer et al. Project Period Internal reports and PhD thesis HallTex1 2002 – 2004 Hofmann et al. 2004 HallTex2 and HallTex2BZ 2004 – 2006 Grömer 2007 HallMetTex since 2005 Pichler et al., forthcoming HallTexFWF 2008 – 2012 Hofmann-de Keijzer 2012c CinBA 2011 – 2013 Hofmann-de Keijzer 2013 Table 1: Projects on the dyeing techniques of Hallstatt textiles / Projekte zum Thema Färbetechniken von Hallstatt-Textilien (2007). Publikationen in internationalen 6.1.1 Research goals and methods Fachzeitschriften über Forschungsergebnisse aus dem HallTexFWF Projekt sind in Vorbereitung The most important research aim was to (HARTL et al., forthcoming). determine whether and to what extent prehistoric textiles had been dyed, and what factors might 6.1.1 Untersuchungsziele und Methoden have led to subsequent colour changes. From 60 coloured Hallstatt textiles, 79 samples of woollen Das wesentlichste Forschungsziel war, threads ranging from 0.5 to 1 cm in length were herauszufinden, ob und in welchem Ausmaß in taken, and analysed using microscopic and der Urgeschichte Textilien gefärbt wurden und chromatographic techniques. welche Faktoren später zu Farbveränderungen Reflected and transmitted light microscopy geführt haben könnten. Aus 60 farbigen Hallstatt- were used for studying the homogeneity of Textilien wurden 79 Proben von Wollfäden mit colour in fabrics, threads and fibres. Scanning einer Länge von 0,5 bis 1 cm entnommen und electron microscopy with energy-dispersive mit mikroskopischen und chromatographischen X-ray analysis (SEM-EDS) was applied to Techniken untersucht. investigate the fibres, their contamination and Das Forscherteam verwendete Auflicht- und condition, and the chemical elements which Durchlichtmikroskopie, um die Homogenität may have originated from mordants. The dyes der Farbe in Geweben, Fäden und Fasern zu were analysed by high-performance liquid beurteilen. Rasterelektronenmikroskopie mit chromatography with photo diode array detection energie-dispersiver Röntgenanalyse (REM- (HPLC-PDA). More detailed explanations of the EDX) diente zur Untersuchung der Fasern, analytical methods can be found in JOOSTEN et der Faserverunreinigung, des Faserzustands al. (2006). und jener chemischen Elemente, die aus During the HalltexFWF project, a reference Beizmittel stammen könnten. Hochleistungs- collection of dye plants and experimentally dyed Flüssigkeitschromatographie gekoppelt mit woollen yarns was created and analysed, which Photo-Dioden-Array-Detektion (HPLC- improved the interpretation of dye analyses PDA) wurde zur Farbstoffanalyse eingesetzt. (HARTL et al., forthcoming). The database Detailangaben zu den Analysemethoden findet developed under the same project (HOFMANN-DE man in JOOSTEN et al. (2006). KEIJZER et al. in prep.) served to document the Der Aufbau und die Analyse einer research results. Categories and symbols enabled Referenzsammlung von Färbepflanzen und quantitative assessment of analytical results and experimentell gefärbten Wollgarnen ermöglichte comparison of results across single samples. The im Projekt HalltexFWF die Optimierung data on dye, fibre and element analyses of the der Interpretation von Farbstoffanalysen investigated textiles are listed in the catalogue. In (HARTL et al., forthcoming). Die im selben the introduction to the catalogue an explanation Chapter 6: Analysis reports / 6.1 The colours and dyeing techniques of prehistoric textiles 137 Projekt entwickelte Datenbank HallTexFWF is given for special terms and the symbols for the (HOFMANN-DE KEIJZER et al. in prep.) diente following results: zur Dokumentation der Untersuchungsresultate. 1. Relative amount of dyes and coloured Kategorien und Symbole ermöglichen die components (Catalogue Tab. 1), quantitative Einschätzung von Analysedaten 2. Relative amount of chemical elements und den Vergleich von Analysedaten einzelner (Catalogue Tab. 1), Proben. Die Daten zu den Farbstoff-, Faser- und 3. Degree of fibre contamination (Catalogue Elementanalysen der untersuchten Textilien sind Tab. 1) and im Katalogteil aufgelistet. In der Einleitung 4. Degree of fibre degradation (Catalogue zum Katalogteil werden Fachbegriffe und die Tab. 1 and Tab. 2). Symbole zu folgenden Resultaten erklärt: 1. Relative Menge der Farbstoffe und 6.1.2 Research into dyeing of prehistoric farbigen Komponenten (Katalogteil textiles: possibilities and limitations Tab. 1), 2. Relative Menge der chemischen To improve knowledge on the European Elemente (Katalogteil Tab. 1), prehistory of textile dyeing, many dye analyses 3. Grad der Faserverschmutzung (Katalog- of that era are needed. The analysis of 79 samples teil Tab. 1) und from 60 Hallstatt textile finds from Bronze Age 4. Grad des Faserabbaus (Katalogteil Tab. 1 (ca. 1600–1200 BC; 11 textiles) and early Iron und Tab. 2). Age (ca. 850 –350 BC; 49 textiles) allows some initial conclusions on the materials and methods 6.1.2 Erforschung der Färbungen prähistorischer used. Additional evidence can be provided by Textilien: Möglichkeiten und Grenzen archaeobotanical finds of dye plants as well as ancient written sources. Um die Kenntnisse über die Textilfärberei der europäischen Urgeschichte zu erweitern, Analysis of dyes using high-performance sollten möglichst viele Textilien dieser Epochen liquid chromatography with photo diode array farbstoffanalytisch untersucht werden. Die detection (HPLC-PDA) Analyse der 79 Proben aus 60 Hallstätter During sample preparation, the dyes are first Textilfunden der Bronzezeit (ca. 1600–1200 extracted with a nonpolar solution (DMF) and v. Chr.; 11 Textilien) und Frühen Eisenzeit next by acid extraction. Afterwards, a solution (ca. 850–350 v.Chr., 49 Textilien) erlauben is prepared, which is injected into the column erste Schlussfolgerungen zu den verwendeten of the HPLC equipment. The column is filled Materialien und Methoden. Zusätzliche with a stationary (solid) phase. As soon as Hinweise liefern archäobotanische Funde von a mobile phase (mixture of solvents) passes Färbpflanzen sowie antike Schriften. through the column, the dyes advance with the mobile phase but are retained due to adsorption Farbstoffanalyse mit Hochleistungs- to the stationary phase. Due to differences in Flüssigkeitschromatographie gekoppelt mit adsorption, chromatographic properties and Photo-Dioden-Array-Detektion (HPLC-PDA) solubility in the mobile phase, the components Während der Probenvorbereitung werden die are separated. Each dye leaves the column at a Farbstoffe von der Textilfaser durch saure certain time, the retention time (Tr, in minutes). Hydrolyse extrahiert. Anschließend wird eine When a component is leaving the column, the Lösung hergestellt und
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