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A Responsible Option NAJ Awards The mark of industry inspiration & information August 2019 £7.50 That’s Showmanship! The buzz of IJL A Responsible Option Working with Fairtrade Gold today NAJ Awards Enter now… you know you’re worth it! The National Association of Jewellers August 2019 Opinion 3 from The Editor One of the extra-curricular features during the three-day exhibition at Olympia will focus on the many skills that make up our industry… something The Jeweller also regularly celebrates. On page 60 At the Bench turns its attention to professional wax carving; then on page 53 we catch up with artist, silversmith and master craftsman, Wally Gilbert – whose work sits in the Federation’s silver collection. In 2011 Fairtrade gold was introduced to the UK jewellery industry, with a handful of designers and brands licensed to obtain and use what little there was of it at the time. Since then the desire to source, work and buy responsibly has gathered momentum, and as the THE TH MARCH CLUB supply of Fairtrade gold increases, making it available to more, we speak to some of the designers who are as committed as ever to the movement nine years on. (p56). t time of writing (23rd July) I’m looking at an And while pondering reasons to be cheerful, let me remind you that unfamiliar, glorious blue sky and a heat haze across Christmas isn’t that far off, which means that the NAJ Awards (the harvest-ready wheat fields. Then things cloud good time that is had by all) is also moments away. I know, that you over with political ‘news just in’ and the Slough of know, that you, your team, your business, have earned recognition A Despond beckons! As you read this you’ll have had this year… so put pen to paper/finger to keyboard/face to camera… “An exclusive range of bene ts and improved insurance cover a month to adjust, but right now I’m calling on the Harlow of Hope, and tell us about it. Then get ready to party (we can practice that last the Chippenham of Cheer, the Wolverhampton of Wellbeing… to lift bit at IJL). for NAJ Members” my mood. See you soon. In fact, inspired by Nyasha Pitt’s Last Word in this issue, I’m working on positivity. To me September (new term, new teachers, new pencil case) always feels optimistic and exciting and as we tip headlong into INCREASED IMPROVED DISCOUNTS this new season, the promise of more newness to discover at IJL is spirit-raising. I hope that our preview of collections to be unveiled at Revenue Opportunities Insurance Cover On Products & Services the show (p24) will whet your appetite – we look forward to seeing many of you in the aisles, or perhaps on the NAJ stand. Belinda Morris, Editor Plus Many Additional Benefits... Contact TH March or the NAJ to find out more! pg pg pg www.thmarch.co.uk/NAJ 24 60 64 “Just a week away from the shopping and “Once you hear about the dangerous conditions “You'll need passion, dedication, concentration networking extravaganza that is IJL, we preview miners face daily it’s a no-brainer; as goldsmiths and patience… the rest will follow. Repetition is some of the new collections…” we have a duty of care…” the key to mastery…” @THMarchBiz The Jeweller AD - AUG 2019.indd 1 18/07/2019 12:26 NAJ News 5 pg The National Association InsideBransom this Issue 50 of Jewellers The National Association of Jewellers 10 Vyse Street August 2019 Birmingham Stars B18 6LT 0121 2 3 7 111 0 November and December 2018 www.naj.co.uk Bransom Award winners TRENDS NEWS Editor: Belinda Morris [email protected] 41 Gemstone Profile 08 NAJ News Sapphires – blue is not the only colour BUSINESS ADVICE Ready for IJL Advertising sales: [email protected] 11 Industry News 60 Fairtrade Gold 14 Member Benefits 0121 2 3 7 111 0 The designers committed to responsible sourcing Gucci’s new haute jewellery boutique Better Business Support and Copywatch Designed & produced by: 12 NAJ News EVENTS & SHOWS 15 JET Business Network Senior Internet NAJ Awards 2019 – be in it to win it! JBN Congress – time well spent www.senior.co.uk 0115 838 9555 17 Industry News 18 NAJ Conference 22 Championing UK Manufacturing UK Jewellery Awards – the winners Be there… or be sorry you missed it! The NAJ’s new mark for UK-made jewellery Printed by: HPA Print Ltd 20 NAJ News 24 International Jewellery London 44 Education www.hpaprint.co.uk Meet the team A preview of new collections on show JET Practical Training Days 07525 011 589 52 Industry News 50 Couture London 46 Security Goldsmiths’ Fair 2019 The crème of haute jewellery Beware the hole in the wall Contributory writers: Ernie Blom, David Brough, Sarah Carpin, Danielle 54 NAJ News 53 CMJ Autumn Trade Event 49 Gold Market Report Chib, Delyth Du Plooy, Kerry Gregory, Nicole Verne Getting a steer on things Reporting from the show 67 Better Business Front Cover Image: 58 Shape Shifter The changing face of PR Les Georgettes by Altesse New Wallace Chan exhibition www.lesgeorgettes.com 68 Book Reviews Grant Murdoch +44 (0) 7898 135463 [email protected] Celebrating colour in jewellery PROFILE pg The NAJ is responsible for producing The Jeweller and although every effort is OPINION made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAJ does not accept 40 KickStart’s 10th Birthday 41 liability, loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should Meet two KickStart successes always consult their own professional advisors. The NAJ accepts no responsibility for the content of any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone 03 Editor’s Letter having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine 57 From Our Silver Cabinet is printed using vegetable based inks on FSC certified paper produced from sustainable sources The working life of artist-silversmith Wally Gilbert 07 CEO’s Foreword 64 At the Bench Want a personal copy of ‘The Jeweller’ 42 The Kimberley Process All you need to know about…. wax carving delivered direct to your inbox? Ernie Blom on ‘the elephant in the room’ 69 The Last Word… Complete the form at www.naj.co.uk/subscribe or 45 Education … goes to Nyasha Pitt send an email to [email protected] The latest Clarity and Success stars August 2019 Opinion 7 VIEW THE NEW foreword COLLECTIONS AT CEO’s INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON The resulting scheme gives every UK manufacturer and every retailer that stocks jewellery-related products made in the UK the STAND D�� opportunity to tell a new story to bring customers to, and through, their door. The NAJ and our colleagues across the sector will be playing their part by promoting the news, so we urge you to get involved now in order to reap the benefit. For more details on the scheme turn to page 22 for an article that explains it in full detail, or visit International Jewellery London (Olympia, London, 1st – 3rd September) and attend our launch seminar at The Retail Theatre on the Monday. If I don’t get a chance to see you at the show, and I’m guessing you and I will both be fairly busy, do come along to our free drinks at The Prince near West Brompton tube on the Monday night. The evening is being supported by IJL and Retail Jeweller (our thanks to both organisations). Following on from IJL, we’re heading towards the NAJ’s annual Conference (14th-16th September, Loughborough) which is focused What a Long on adding value to your jewellery journey – I know those who attend really set great store by it, so do check it out. There is no other event in the UK calendar with such a concentration of jewellery experts under one roof, all ready, willing and able to share their expertise – Strange Trip I’d recommend every retailer and valuer to attend. We’re also happy to announce that the Association has introduced a Better Business ‘vault of resources’ for members to tap into. With an eye firmly on the various elements under the umbrella of it's Been ‘Compliance’, we hope that anyone needing, for instance, a legal, HR or tax hotline will make full use of this new member benefit. See page 14 for full details. To learn how the NAJ has all the interests of n 2nd September the NAJ fires its first salvo in its members at heart, turn to page 50 for notes on two recent steering the battle to move jewellery further up the list of group meetings… just to keep you in the loupe. discretionary purchases with the launch of its new scheme to mark goods created within the UK. The Have a great show! O first items are being struck from 1st January 2020 onwards to coincide with the latest date mark. It’s taken a very long time to get here, and there have been quite a few hurdles for us to negotiate along the way. I’d like to single out National Committee member and F Hinds director Andrew Hinds and the NAJ’s industry ambassador Lindsey Straughton in particular for their support, guidance and patience while we pulled this together. Their forbearance was especially required following the news that we just couldn’t get a deal in place with Made in Britain, Simon Forrester CEO and had to go back to the drawing board to create our own scheme.
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