The mark of industry inspiration & information August 2019

£7.50

That’s Showmanship! The buzz of IJL

A Responsible Option Working with Fairtrade Gold today

NAJ Awards Enter now… you know you’re worth it!

The National Association of Jewellers August 2019 Opinion 3 from The Editor

One of the extra-curricular features during the three-day exhibition at Olympia will focus on the many skills that make up our industry… something The Jeweller also regularly celebrates. On page 60 At the Bench turns its attention to professional wax carving; then on page 53 we catch up with artist, silversmith and master craftsman, Wally Gilbert – whose work sits in the Federation’s silver collection.

In 2011 Fairtrade gold was introduced to the UK jewellery industry, with a handful of designers and brands licensed to obtain and use what little there was of it at the time. Since then the desire to source, work and buy responsibly has gathered momentum, and as the THE TH MARCH CLUB supply of Fairtrade gold increases, making it available to more, we speak to some of the designers who are as committed as ever to the movement nine years on. (p56).

t time of writing (23rd July) I’m looking at an And while pondering reasons to be cheerful, let me remind you that unfamiliar, glorious blue sky and a heat haze across Christmas isn’t that far off, which means that the NAJ Awards (the harvest-ready wheat fields. Then things cloud good time that is had by all) is also moments away. I know, that you over with political ‘news just in’ and the Slough of know, that you, your team, your business, have earned recognition A Despond beckons! As you read this you’ll have had this year… so put pen to paper/finger to keyboard/face to camera… a month to adjust, but right now I’m calling on the Harlow of Hope, and tell us about it. Then get ready to party (we can practice that last “An exclusive range of bene ts and improved insurance cover the Chippenham of Cheer, the Wolverhampton of Wellbeing… to lift bit at IJL). for NAJ Members” my mood. See you soon. In fact, inspired by Nyasha Pitt’s Last Word in this issue, I’m working on positivity. To me September (new term, new teachers, new pencil case) always feels optimistic and exciting and as we tip headlong into INCREASED IMPROVED DISCOUNTS this new season, the promise of more newness to discover at IJL is spirit-raising. I hope that our preview of collections to be unveiled at Revenue Opportunities Insurance Cover On Products & Services the show (p24) will whet your appetite – we look forward to seeing many of you in the aisles, or perhaps on the NAJ stand. Belinda Morris, Editor Plus Many Additional Benefits... Contact TH March or the NAJ to find out more! pg pg pg www.thmarch.co.uk/NAJ 24 60 64

“Just a week away from the shopping and “Once you hear about the dangerous conditions “You'll need passion, dedication, concentration networking extravaganza that is IJL, we preview miners face daily it’s a no-brainer; as goldsmiths and patience… the rest will follow. Repetition is some of the new collections…” we have a duty of care…” the key to mastery…” @THMarchBiz

The Jeweller AD - AUG 2019.indd 1 18/07/2019 12:26 NAJ News 5

pg The National Association InsideBransom this Issue 50 of Jewellers The National Association of Jewellers 10 Vyse Street August 2019 Birmingham Stars B18 6LT 0121 2 3 7 111 0 November and December 2018 www.naj.co.uk

Bransom Award winners TRENDS NEWS Editor: Belinda Morris [email protected] 41 Gemstone Profile 08 NAJ News Sapphires – blue is not the only colour BUSINESS ADVICE Ready for IJL Advertising sales: [email protected] 11 Industry News 60 Fairtrade Gold 14 Member Benefits 0121 2 3 7 111 0 The designers committed to responsible sourcing Gucci’s new haute jewellery boutique Better Business Support and Copywatch

Designed & produced by: 12 NAJ News EVENTS & SHOWS 15 JET Business Network Senior Internet NAJ Awards 2019 – be in it to win it! JBN Congress – time well spent www.senior.co.uk 0115 838 9555 17 Industry News 18 NAJ Conference 22 Championing UK Manufacturing UK Jewellery Awards – the winners Be there… or be sorry you missed it! The NAJ’s new mark for UK-made jewellery Printed by: HPA Print Ltd 20 NAJ News 24 International Jewellery London 44 Education www.hpaprint.co.uk Meet the team A preview of new collections on show JET Practical Training Days 07525 011 589 52 Industry News 50 Couture London 46 Security Goldsmiths’ Fair 2019 The crème of haute jewellery Beware the hole in the wall Contributory writers: Ernie Blom, David Brough, Sarah Carpin, Danielle 54 NAJ News 53 CMJ Autumn Trade Event 49 Gold Market Report Chib, Delyth Du Plooy, Kerry Gregory, Nicole Verne Getting a steer on things Reporting from the show 67 Better Business Front Cover Image: 58 Shape Shifter The changing face of PR Les Georgettes by Altesse New Wallace Chan exhibition www.lesgeorgettes.com 68 Book Reviews Grant Murdoch +44 (0) 7898 135463 [email protected] Celebrating colour in jewellery PROFILE pg

The NAJ is responsible for producing The Jeweller and although every effort is OPINION made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAJ does not accept 40 KickStart’s 10th Birthday 41 liability, loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should Meet two KickStart successes always consult their own professional advisors. The NAJ accepts no responsibility for the content of any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone 03 Editor’s Letter having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine 57 From Our Silver Cabinet is printed using vegetable based inks on FSC certified paper produced from sustainable sources The working life of artist-silversmith Wally Gilbert 07 CEO’s Foreword

64 At the Bench Want a personal copy of ‘The Jeweller’ 42 The Kimberley Process All you need to know about…. wax carving delivered direct to your inbox? Ernie Blom on ‘the elephant in the room’

69 The Last Word… Complete the form at www.naj.co.uk/subscribe or 45 Education … goes to Nyasha Pitt send an email to [email protected] The latest Clarity and Success stars August 2019 Opinion 7 VIEW THE NEW foreword COLLECTIONS AT CEO’s INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON The resulting scheme gives every UK manufacturer and every retailer that stocks jewellery-related products made in the UK the STAND D�� opportunity to tell a new story to bring customers to, and through, their door. The NAJ and our colleagues across the sector will be playing their part by promoting the news, so we urge you to get involved now in order to reap the benefit.

For more details on the scheme turn to page 22 for an article that explains it in full detail, or visit International Jewellery London (Olympia, London, 1st – 3rd September) and attend our launch seminar at The Retail Theatre on the Monday.

If I don’t get a chance to see you at the show, and I’m guessing you and I will both be fairly busy, do come along to our free drinks at The Prince near West Brompton tube on the Monday night. The evening is being supported by IJL and Retail Jeweller (our thanks to both organisations).

Following on from IJL, we’re heading towards the NAJ’s annual Conference (14th-16th September, Loughborough) which is focused What a Long on adding value to your jewellery journey – I know those who attend really set great store by it, so do check it out. There is no other event in the UK calendar with such a concentration of jewellery experts under one roof, all ready, willing and able to share their expertise – Strange Trip I’d recommend every retailer and valuer to attend. We’re also happy to announce that the Association has introduced a Better Business ‘vault of resources’ for members to tap into. With an eye firmly on the various elements under the umbrella of it's Been ‘Compliance’, we hope that anyone needing, for instance, a legal, HR or tax hotline will make full use of this new member benefit. See page 14 for full details. To learn how the NAJ has all the interests of n 2nd September the NAJ fires its first salvo in its members at heart, turn to page 50 for notes on two recent steering the battle to move jewellery further up the list of group meetings… just to keep you in the loupe. discretionary purchases with the launch of its new scheme to mark goods created within the UK. The Have a great show! O first items are being struck from 1st January 2020 onwards to coincide with the latest date mark.

It’s taken a very long time to get here, and there have been quite a few hurdles for us to negotiate along the way. I’d like to single out National Committee member and F Hinds director Andrew Hinds and the NAJ’s industry ambassador Lindsey Straughton in particular for their support, guidance and patience while we pulled this together. Their forbearance was especially required following the news that we just couldn’t get a deal in place with Made in Britain, Simon Forrester CEO and had to go back to the drawing board to create our own scheme. National Association of Jewellers HONEST BRITISH CRAFTSMANSHIP

+44 (0)121 242 0042 – [email protected] www.hockleymint.co.uk 8 NAJ News The Jeweller NAJ at IJL

Hand engraver Esh Amram will be on the NAJ stand (E21) throughout the Sunday morning of A Modern Twist to the show to update the renowned and well-used Hand Engraving Style Guide, created originally by the NAG. Engraving Card in NAJ’s Esh, who is taking part in a hand engraving apprenticeship funded by the Benevolent Society, will introduce new typeface to the guide, as well IJL Line-up as update the NAG header to NAJ. The card currently details 37 different styles and is used to demonstrate to customers the range of fonts and styles that a hand engraver could employ. The new style guide will be on display on the stand from Sunday afternoon onwards, and available on the NAJ website following the event.

JBN, Better Business and Apprenticeships

Also taking to the NAJ stand on Sunday are members from the Association’s JET Business Network, which next year celebrates its 15-year anniversary. To its UK Manufacturing retail members, access to the network is a key part of their membership, with data sharing, store visits and online advice Launch... and more forums just some of the benefits on offer. Be there to learn more from the team.

Kicking off the activities on the NAJ In addition to the busy schedule, the The Better Business toolbox was launched stand on Tuesday morning will be NAJ’s volunteer and staff teams will be earlier this year, and attendees at the show our follow-up to the launch of the UK on hand to take you on a membership will be able to talk directly to the people manufacturing mark. (the Knowledge Hub ‘drive-thru’, explaining the benefits involved and complete the Better Business at 15.00-16.00, Monday) and the NAJ Live you’re eligible for – but might not be Health check on Monday morning. The garden party, that evening. The scheme, using. They will guide you on which toolbox, which is built on three pillars which champions British manufacturing, educational programmes and courses of compliance, profit and sustainability, is for both suppliers and retailers and would best fit your team and, crucially, enables companies to list duties and members can register interest in the register you for the NAJ Live party. approaches which must, should and could scheme and the forthcoming mark. Supported by Retail Jeweller and IJL, be done to make your business more the informal event takes place in the resilient. Closing the show for us on Tuesday will garden terrace at The Prince – previously be Synergy Print. The company powers featured in Vogue and GQ magazines For information on how Esh’s (and other) NAJ’s PrintShop, which offers members – just a two-minute walk from West apprenticeship models might work for a convenient means of personalising Brompton station. you, partners Interlearn will host drop-in and printing marketing, education and sessions on the Monday afternoon, again promotional collateral, which can be We’ll also be ready to scan your golden on the NAJ stand, before taking to the used to attract and educate customers. ticket (the band you had to break to open Inspiration Theatre to present at 11.15 UK 0800 1956771 | ROI 1800 625163 | [email protected] Representatives from Synergy will show this magazine) where you will enter a on Tuesday. Interlearn’s creatively-led www.curteis.com members the range of products available, free prize draw to win a Sage Barista approach allows apprentices to develop how to use them and will demonstrate Coffee Machine… don’t forget to bring it their portfolios detailing capabilities, exactly how the PrintShop works. with you! objectives and aspirations.

8005 Jeweller ISSUE17 Sept-oct MASTER inner_AW2.indd 4 28/09/2018 17:02 August 2019 Industry News 11 Peter Crump appointed chair of GC&DC

continuing its collective work to extend ambition over the past two years. the reach, profile and effectiveness of its This year Crump celebrates 40 years since annual competition, The Goldsmiths’ Craft founding Melton Mowbray-based Vipa, & Design Council Awards. which manufactures, supports and offers services to other jewellery businesses Speaking of his appointment, Crump including designer makers and retailers, said: “Wow! What an honour…! This is a and has been at the forefront of the ethical fabulous industry, and to be asked to lead making movement for over 15 years. Crump an organisation that consistently supports, also serves on the NAJ’s Education Steering promotes, rewards and celebrates the very Group, and judges on the Birmingham best of creative design, fine craftsmanship Jewellery School Design for Industry Panel. he Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design and talent is a rare privilege. I look forward Council (GC&DC) has appointed to building on the great work done by past He has asked fellow GC&DC Council T a new chair for the next two years chairmen, leading the Council to even member and Trustee Kathryn Bishop to be – Peter Crump, MD of UK jewellery design greater heights.” his vice chair for the next two years. With and manufacturing company, Vipa Designs. 14 years’ background working with the UK The Council, whose members are drawn trade Bishop is recognised as a business Taking over from retiring chair Andy from the UK jewellery, silversmithing and journalist for the jewellery and watch trades, Putland, Crump is excited to commence his allied trades, expressed its gratitude to and as a jewellery brand consultant. She new role and put plans into place to develop Putland, who remains as a Council member is also Research & Insights director for the the Council’s work and ambitions further, and trustee, for his enthusiasm, vision and Women’s Jewellery Network.

to “channel the spirituality of imperfection”. The first pays homage to classical emblems of eternal love; the second is an ode to the majesty of the animal kingdom, evoking mythic bestiary and ancient fauna; the third is centered on First high singular solitaires “redefined with maximalist allure”. In contrast to other Gucci boutiques globally, which are known for their distinct saturated hues, Place Vendôme is elegantly muted. Cabinets crafted from ebonised wood are lined in aqua-green satin and antique mirrors, complemented jewellery by brass details and the mosaic floor in black and white marble. This backdrop jewellery is a perfect foil for the gemstones – a spectrum of honey-hued imperial topaz, rosé topaz, green tourmaline, mandarin garnets, white diamonds, pink and plus new blue sapphires, opals and yellow beryls. boutique for Gucci

ast month Gucci debuted a high jewellery collection, which will be sold in its new 16 L Place Vendome, Paris, boutique. Designed by Alessandro Michele, Hortus Delicarium comprises more than 200 pieces, mainly one of a kind, with motifs revolving around a trio of themes and seen through the prism of a mythical garden.

Each gemstone is set in what Michele describes as “discordant symmetry”, ever-so-slightly mismatched 12 NAJ News

You have to be in it to win it… and there’s still time to blow your own trumpet. Tell us why you, your business or your team deserve industry-wide Public support for Fairtrade is at recognition. This year there are 11 an all-time high and reports show categories to choose from, so there’s that a third of consumers would something for everyone. choose to shop at stores that were concerned about how their gold is produced, while a quarter said they would buy Fairtrade Gold NAJ Awards even if it meant paying more*. We now stock • Round Wire 2019 (18ct Yellow and White) • Square Wire Christmas might seem some way off, but at NAJ HQ we’re already getting excited about (9ct Yellow, White and Red, the forthcoming NAJ Awards… a celebration of and 18ct Yellow and White) our talented and deserving membership, fund- raising beano and Christmas party all rolled into one! Held on 5th December, at The St • Sheet John’s Hotel, Solihull, during the British Allied (18ct Yellow and White) Trades Federation Benevolent Ball.

The NAJ would like to say a huge ‘thank you’ • Grain to the Sponsors of the Awards, who, as we go to (9ct Yellow, White and Red, press, have been confirmed as Parify (Service Provider), Presman Mastermelt (Workshop and 18ct Yellow and Fine Gold) Professional), Clogau (Designer) and TH March (Team). The team are always extremely grateful for their support, without which these • Loose Chain prestigious accolades could not be awarded. (9ct and 18ct Yellow)

Individual/ Team awards

Salesperson of the Year Designer of the Year Workshop Professional of the Year Team of the Year Visit visit naj.co.uk/awards for all the details on how to enter, check out the criteria and Organisation awards download the entry forms.

Service Provider of the Year Don’t procrastinate; entries must be Jewellery and/or Watch Supplier of the Year submitted (in writing or video) by 14th Retailer of the Year October. And of course, even if you’re not Innovation of the Year entering this year, we’d really like to see you Corporate Social Responsibility Initiative of at the not-to-be-missed party! Visit www. the Year thebenevolentsociety.co.uk/christmas-ball Website of the Year for details on tickets, including early bird * CAFOD, “ Good bling not bad bling says British public,” 2006 Physical Shop Front of the Year rates before 31st August, 2019.

8582 CG Fairtrade NAJ Ad_AW.indd 1 06/03/2019 14:44 14 Member Benefits The Jeweller August 2019 NAJ News 15

Being a member of the NAJ brings benefits in abundance, from legal advice to discounts on exhibiting at the biggest shows at home and abroad; we have the tools to help your business grow. JBN Congress The Perks of – Time Well Spent. Last month I attended my third Congress and Association guess what – it was once again time well spent… says Nicola Verne, store Design protection manager at Jeremy with Copywatch France Jewellers.

One of the most valuable benefits for those who create their own collections or bespoke designs, is the NAJ’s design deposit scheme, Copywatch, run in he phrase ‘the knowledge is in conjunction with patent agents, Barker the room’ kept being repeated Brettell, and intellectual property firm, throughout the day after Elizabeth Royds Withy King. Particularly popular Bagger, the director general of theT Institute for Family Business, set up with designer and supplier members, the scheme helps to add another layer of an activity for each table to explore (and protection against design theft and can share) how to get through current barriers be of vital help if matters (in connection with regards to their own family business. Nicola Verne, Jeremy France I found this exercise really interesting, and Jewellers with Michael with theft) are escalated. Donaldson, JBN facilitator the experience Ian Cookson shared later in Copywatch should not be confused the day – how he and his staff colleagues with Copyrighting, as it is not a legal took over PA Jewellery in Sheffield through document, however this should not employee ownership – was something I’d deter members from taking advantage, not encountered before. as registering your designs provides a external agencies such as Whitehouse supposed death of the high street despite 53 Introducing your new Better Business paper trail that can be audited during an At Jeremy France, we actioned a voucher deliver a sale, including a closing down sale per cent of those who were surveyed in the investigation, building up the evidence in scheme idea that I learned about at one of – not that this particular activity is anywhere last five years bought jewellery or watches your favour. my JBN meetings, and over two promotions in our thoughts at Jeremy France, quite the online. The lesson from the report suggested Support Service it brought us a significant five figure sum opposite in fact. More relevant for us was retailers need to add ‘experience’ to their When registering designs, it is of the in extra sales. My experience tells me that the members panel who spoke about how offer – which led to a good discussion on how upmost importance to thoroughly in these types of activities it’s important PR and marketing through events was able other members in the network do this (the The NAJ is excited to welcome a host Since July, members have had access describe the aesthetics of the piece in to understand the ‘how’ and not just the to drive sales in a customer group. We also knowledge was definitely in the room for this). of new member benefits provided to unlimited free calls to Quest’s detail, rather than focusing on generics. ‘what’ – as this is often where good initial heard about how to make the most of the Second hand, ethical and sustainable products by Quest, which has been providing Association Advice Line, run by For example, you should avoid describing ideas can fall down. Out of interest, we took events through social media. Actually, the were also noted as opportunities according human resources and health and safety experienced advisors offering practical a design generically, as ‘a solid silver a poll at the Congress to see how much social media talk also went into the ‘how’ of to the presentation, which is something I’ve solutions for individual businesses and advice on HR, employment law, health bangle’, as there is nothing unique to set JBN members had made in 2018 purely being able to increase your profile online heard from other members. membership organisations throughout & safety, legal issues plus tax and VAT it apart from other designs of a similar down to ideas and suggestions from other more consistently between events, and how the UK for two decades. matters. nature. Instead, phrases such as ‘square JBN members… like the voucher scheme. to avoid some of the PR pitfalls. All in all, the Congress itself, as well as the shaped hammered silver bangle with It’s interesting that the poll results showed informal drinks reception, was time really Better Business aims to help members Members also have access to Quest’s rounded edges and engraved forest scene an average net income of £15,464.29 – that’s One thing I’ve brought back to my team well spent. JBN is about networking with ensure that their businesses are doing online portal, where they can find detail’ should be used. Don’t worry, if we 18 times the current fee to join the JBN at Jeremy France is the insight that was other like-minded jewellers and jewellery right, doing well and doing good, with over 700 free downloadable template think your description needs more detail, community! shared by Mintel – a consumer research businesses who are finding clever ways to these new services focusing on being documents on these four areas – an we will let you know! survey of 2,000 people to understand their grow. Some of the things I discover here are so compliant and lawful. Quest is providing invaluable resource to have access to. Last year it was voucher schemes, and this buying behaviour with regards to jewellery simple but have been so effective for us, and members with free access to four of Members can submit 25 designs for free year it was events, and how they make up and watches. The headline for me was that being able to understand what is being sold is its legal services, vital for ensuring To access the portal and Association per year, with a small fee of £2.50 for a practical means of retaining existing Chana, the presenter, argued against the information that isn’t available elsewhere. the smooth running of your business, Advice Line, members should contact each submission thereafter; designs that customers and attracting new ones. It whether you are a sole trader or a large the membership team on 0121 237 1110 are within one collection count as one was also good to understand what a real company. or email [email protected]. deposit. ‘sale’ event looks like financially, and how For more information on the JBN, visit naj.co.uk/JBN. Industry News 17

Julien Riad Sahyoun Rivoli Jewellers

Clogau It was another fun-filled, action-packed evening of celebration as 700 or so members of our industry came together to reward the very worthy winners of this year’s UK Jewellery Awards. UK Jewellery Beaverbrooks Awards 2019 This year’s Special Recognition Award went not to an individual but to a business. To the delight of the entire room, that business is Beaverbrooks, which this year celebrates its centenary. The Award pays tribute to – The Winners the work of the 71-store retailer and “all that it has done to make a difference… to colleagues… the industry… and the wider With Clogau as headline sponsor, and Jewellers (Best Retail Customer Event), community, which it supports through its the NAJ as supporter, the must-attend Beaverbrooks (Employer), Peter Jackson charitable work”. Chairman Mark Adlestone, event was held once again in the Artillery (Retail Sales Team), Ntinga (Jewellery/ who this year was named the new High Gardens in the heart of the City of London Watch Supplier), Burrells (Watch Retailer), Sheriff of Greater Manchester, received a – complete with funfair, sponsored by Clogau (Monobrand Retailer) and Mappin & standing ovation as he took to the stage. Garmin. This year’s chosen charity was the Webb (Retailer, six stores or more). And so the partying began in earnest… British Jewellery & Giftware Association Benevolent Society. The grand total raised was £3,360, including £220 from guests paying £10 each to have selfies with new celebrity host, actor Larry Lamb (!) and a further £1,000 pledged by Beaverbrooks. “I’d like to thank all involved with the UKJA and all of their guests, for their outstanding generosity. This sum will help us to be able to continue with all of our good works," says the Benevolent Society’s David Doyle.

The 20 Award categories saw many NAJ members taking to the stage – we congratulate them (and all winners of course) on their achievements. They include Julien Riad Sahyoun (Young Jewellery Designer of the Year), Parify (Service Supplier), Rivoli Jewellers (Bridal Jewellery Jacobs the Jewellers Ntinga Retailer) with Bond Jewellery & Diamonds highly commended, Daniella Draper (Best Multichannel Retailers), Jacobs the View the awards roundup video; www.naj.co.uk/UKJA2019 18 IRV The Jeweller Conference There’s just time to book your place at the NAJ’s most insightful, inspirational and informative event of the year.

By the time you have this copy of The Jeweller in your hand, the Association’s popular annual event, the Conference held in 2 19 Loughborough, will be just a few weeks away (14th – 16th September). It’s a must-attend for members of the Institute of Registered Valuers (IRV) of course, but is also hugely appreciated by anyone aspiring to become professional valuers/jewellers… or simply those who love the seemed… or was it just a dream that one could buy genuine, good industry in all its infinite variety. value, gemstones on eBay. Kerry will lead you through the fairy tale and the reality that has been her experience buying gemstones on This year’s diverse programme of main presentations, 90-minute eBay, in an attempt to answer her own question. workshops (two on Saturday, three on Sunday and one on Monday) and discussion sessions, offers a truly broad insight into our amazing Harriet Kelsall – Creating Value industry. For hands-on experience there are workshops, as well as sit- back-and-listen lectures; a CAT Pre-Exam Tutorial is always invaluable Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery has won and the now regular Welcome to Valuing sessions is an eye-opener for numerous national awards for design, retail, aspiring valuers… delegates are simply spoilt for choice. ethics and recognition of a business model bringing design-led bespoke jewellery to This year’s main guest speakers include: the high street. After telling the story of her journey growing a kitchen table creative start- up into a vibrant 40-strong team, she passes on her tips on starting Steve Carson – Decades of Design: and growing a business. During this illustrated talk, Harriet includes Jewellery of the Late 19th and Early 20th images of a few commission examples. Centuries

Steve’s illustrated presentation takes a Shirley Mitchell – The 2019 Monitoring detailed look at what were very exciting times Report for jewellery design. To whet your appetite, he will discuss topics such as the botanical Shirley, who is a moderator on the IRV’s obsession of the jewellery designer Oscar Massin; reveal some of Registration Panel, reports on the outcome of the experimental designs of Lucien Gaillard and look at the creative this year’s IRV Monitoring Programme. works of the House of Vever, to name but a few.

Rosamond Clayton – Jadeite Jade: Other Conference attractions will include exhibitors and a Beyond Adornment Gemstone Market. Rosamond discusses the politics, and, above all, the historic message of power, status, wealth and symbolism of, in fine qualities, one of the rarest gems, highly prized by The deadline for booking All business sessions on the Chinese and other Asian races. She will is 4th September; the fee to Saturday, Sunday and explain the continuing significance, value and increasing rarity in attend is £498 + VAT per Monday including tea/coffee today’s world of this complex stone: hard to assess in the rough, hard person, for NAJ members, breaks during mornings and to carve, hard to destroy and hard to value. and includes the following: afternoons.

Saturday, 14th NB: Delegates need to book Two-course lunch, Welcome Kerry Gregory – An eBay Experiment accommodation direct with the – Great Value Gems or Fraudsters’ Fun Reception, three-course venue as this is not included in House?! dinner with wine. the Conference fee. Suffering a bout of self-employed insomnia Sunday, 15th one night, Kerry found herself tumbling down Two-course lunch, three- For a brochure and booking the rabbit hole that is eBay. Like Alice before course dinner with wine. form please contact the her she found things there “curiouser and Conference organiser, Sandra curiouser”, and embarked on a journey to find out if the thousands of Monday, 16th Page on 029 2081 3615 or email gemstones for sale – both mundane and rare – were really what they Two-course lunch. [email protected] 20 NAJ News The Jeweller EXPRESS SERVICE IT’S NOT MACHINES THAT 7 DAY knowledge of compliance and think my years of management experience and practical thinking will stand me in good stead." MAKE GREAT CASTINGS...

New NAJ Staff Chloe Thorn joins as education officer; Safeguard having previously worked in a university Valuations In June the NAJ welcomed three new Katie Gillespie takes over the reins from environment for three years, she is well members of staff to the education, sales and Amanda White, joining the NAJ as versed in the education sector: “I am looking compliance departments. compliance and policy manager, returning forward to using this experience in a new to the industry after a 10-year hiatus: environment and learning all about the NAJ, Garry Lane has joined the Association as “I’m looking forward to expanding my the jewellery industry and its members." AnchorCert AnchorCert Birmingham Gem Lab Analytical Assay Office

sales manager. A former supplier and events ( B U T H E Y L P ! ) manager for the CMJ, Garry is no stranger to the industry and brings with him a wealth of knowledge and connections. He takes ...IT’S EXPERIENCE, PRACTICE direct responsibility for the development ™ of advertising media, events and education AnchorCert DermaKind Academy relationships: "I’m so happy to be back in AND KNOWLEDGE the jewellery industry. The Association is on an exciting journey and if I can help WE MAKE members and bring more people into that (AND WE HAVE OVER journey then great." WE PRINT 40 YEARS OF IT!) Left to right ~ Garry Lane, WE DRAW Katie Gillespie, Chloe Thorn TALK CASTING WE ARE... and FINISHINFindG out more online AT YOUR SERVICE 01583 www.anchorcertgroup.com431683 www.Jewellery CastingScotland.com T 0207 608 0058 E [email protected] Computer Aided Design and Manufacture Scotland wins NAJ [email protected] International Golf Tournament

The Association’s International Golf Club, it comprised 18 holes on one Takes just Tournament 2019, hosted this year by day followed by nine holes the next. WE WANT TO BUY YOUR2 minutes Scotland, was won – easily – by the home to assemble! team, with Wales in second place and The formal dinner on Monday was CLIENT’S LUXURY WATCHES England third. In fact Scotland virtually preceded by a minute’s silence and toast Over 30 years of experience buying & selling luxury watches cleared out all prizes winning the best to Malcolm Jopson, a strong supporter individual scores first and second place of the event who passed away earlier this NAJ PrintShop (Sunday), best for Monday morning year. The wine was provided by his widow and first and second for the main and son, so all could enjoy themselves as Allow your wedding collections to sparkle Costs just competition and Nearest the Pin. Only Malcolm would have done. FREE Valuation - No minimum order launches Tom Green for England stopped what from every angle in the best possible light £1499.99 would have been the first ever ‘clean The 2020 competition will be held in Free registration, no subscription fees using our Mobile Jewellery Showcase Exc VAT & Delivery featuring Linea LED Lighting. sweep’ of medals – well done to Scotland! Wales – venue to be confirmed. To No experience needed – we provide The NAJ has introduced a brand-new feature take part, or for further information, to its online platform: the NAJ PrintShop, knowledge and expertise ActivWhite technology is available The two-day networking event involves contact Frank Wood on golf@ on request, allowing you to control the which allows members to design and Immediate decisions and instant profi ts all sectors of the jewellery industry, with braithwaitesjewellers.com to be added to colour temperature of the in-cabinet purchase branded goods such as certificates all abilities welcome. Held in June this the golf database and kept informed of all with no risks and stationery. lights via the Smartlight App. year at the world famous Carnoustie golf matches held throughout the year. Speedy transaction – payment to you Includes: Once a member is registered, they can browse within the hour > Detachable legs & light bridge and order POS print, business stationery and Insured postage paid by BQW (insured up > Solid Oak Construction education materials, which will allow them to £15,000) to present their company professionally and > Weighs 27kg personally while demonstrating all-important > Fits on the back seat of most cars NAJ credentials. > High security lock & toughened glass > 4m cable & plug Retail support packs are also available to IT 01530REALLY 382500 IS THIS SIMPLE… so call or email us now order through the PrintShop, a popular www.progressivedisplay.co.uk toolkit for retailers to offer to consumers, [email protected] covering topics from Diamonds to Valuing Part of the Parify Group and Insuring – prices starting from £10 for We also buy: Call: +44 (0)203 538 5132 100 leaflets. Audemars Piguet, Breitling, Cartier, Franck Muller, Hublot, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Omega, Patek Philippe and other Luxury Watches. Email: [email protected]

To register visit naj.co.uk/printshop Follow us: Facebook / Twitter / Instagram BQ Watches, BQW House, 1 Back Lane, Edgware, Middlesex HA8 0HS | [email protected] | bqwatches.com

etheewellect1.in 1 10201 02201

8005 Jeweller ISSUE17 Sept-oct MASTER inner_AW2.indd 29 28/09/2018 17:04 22 NAJ News The Jeweller August 2019 NAJ News 23

which may either accept or refuse the goods as well as share the success stories of the scheme, but the mark may also be applied for marking or, if unsure, give the licensee initiative through its own communication via laser. the option (at their expense) of the NAJ channels such as The Jeweller and various taking further advice either from Trading social media channels. Standards or a lawyer before making a final decision. The NAJ officially launches the initiative What it Costs on 2 September at IJL in Olympia, with the This scheme is an additional annual We explicitly acknowledge that there will be first items being struck from 1st January subscription cost for NAJ members, which grey areas – but the NAJ will err on the side 2020 onwards to coincide with the latest is £195 per year, with those registering from of caution. If unclear, the presumption will date mark. September onwards not having to renew be that a product does not qualify, as it is until January 2021. Those who have joined important for the long-term integrity of the scheme that it does not include products of the scheme and been audited in advance of questionable origin. The Mark December will be pre-authorised to have the mark struck on items from January 2020, It was agreed to use the image from allowing them to be the first to achieve the NAJ’s collective registered mark to this, and hopefully gain some significant How It Works create a monochrome struck mark clear publicity. enough to be used on jewellery, silverware Similar to Fairtrade Foundation’s mark and associated products when reduced The sum of £395 is chargeable to non- for Fairtrade Gold, the NAJ will license considerably in size. The mark could be member companies to become licenced. jewellery makers and manufacturers, who struck on precious metal items by any of At time of writing, the NAJ is still in will pay an annual fee to the NAJ for this the four UK Assay Offices as an additional negotiation with the four Assay Offices to and would undertake to: mark to go alongside the hallmark. Initial establish a common pricing structure for · Request the mark on qualifying products sets of commonly used punches will be held marking products – check the NAJ website only by the Assay Offices in order to kickstart the for further details. · Provide written proof of compliance · Check with the NAJ if in any doubt as to whether a specific product qualifies and accept the decision of the NAJ (as the interpreters of the ‘spirit’ as well as the letter of the rules) as final Andrew Hinds, director of F Hinds and a member of both the NAJ National Committee and the British Hallmarking Council (BHC), has · Sign up to a Code of Conduct been a key player in the development and implementation of the mark. · Agree to be audited to ensure compliance with the criteria “While Brexit is a cause of uncertainty and concern in some areas, it · Accept sanctions if in contravention, has provided a timely moment for the launch of this initiative. I would including potentially public removal from hope that we could ride on a wave of national pride which could be a the scheme. Any self-certification scheme positive outcome for our industry and the manufacturers in it,” he says. needs to be operated on a zero-tolerance basis if it is to retain credibility. “The mark will also have cachet in many overseas markets, especially UK Making and Section 36, “goods shall be deemed to in high-end goods,” he adds. “A combination of the lower exchange have been manufactured or produced in Self-policing will be encouraged within the rate helping affordability and a scheme to strengthen the branding of the country in which they last underwent industry through a whistleblowing function. exports of UK jewellery can only be good news.” a treatment or process resulting in a From January 2020 a list of licenced Manufacturing substantial change.” The term ‘substantial companies will appear on the NAJ website change’ is not defined in the Act, although www.naj.co.uk via an advanced filter in the an Order made under it explicitly states that search facility to help highlight products the process of silver-plating stainless-steel crafted within the UK both within the trade cutlery does not constitute a substantial and consumer sections of the website. If n May 2016 the NAJ outlined plans the Crown Dependencies of the Isle of Man, change. Generally, therefore, the meaning the NAJ receives credible intelligence to implement a Made in Britain plus the Bailiwicks of Guernsey and Jersey, Simon Forrester, NAJ CEO said of the initiative: of this phrase is left to the manufacturer to regarding non-compliance, it would mark – a voluntary, additional all of whom would have been excluded from determine but legally it would ultimately be investigate the company concerned without mark, applied by the Assay Offices, the MiB scheme. “This is our first salvo in the fight to move jewellery up the list of for a court to decide, taking account of “the notice. to qualifying products. While this man on the Clapham Omnibus’” perception discretionary purchases. We now have a Consumer Focus Steering project has taken some time to The NAJ will license any companies of circumstances surrounding individual Group devoted to this very task, and will be launching further Ibe realised, the NAJ is ready to launch a and individuals in jewellery and related cases. initiatives alongside the mark. While not every NAJ member can scheme in order that jewellery, silverware industries manufacturing and/or reselling Spreading the Word benefit directly from the mark, we believe it’s another great way of and related products such as pewterware, jewellery products that meet the relevant For example, placing a finished product into starting a conversation with existing and potential customers. created in the UK can be marked and criteria, including but not restricted to NAJ a gift box, or carrying out a simple finishing The NAJ and licensees can use relevant promoted as such. members. These companies would then be process such as polishing, would probably artwork on appropriate products, packaging, It should also be pointed out that there’s strong research on the able to use the NAJ’s intellectual property not constitute ‘substantially changing’ the websites, exhibition stands, etc. Licensees importance of provenance – it’s now the third or fourth reason for Sadly, following many months and years of to promote their products. nature of the product. Conversely, creating can buy products sold by NAJ such as purchase… and this can only grow.” negotiations, the NAJ was unable to secure a piece from imported precious metal badges, tags, POS tent cards, posters, etc. a deal with Made in Britain (MiB), therefore components would be considered to result in via the NAJ website, and pass these out the NAJ took the decision to create its own such a change. for use by retailers – we encourage every mark for use by the UK jewellery industry. What products will qualify? retailer to ask for promotional materials Manufacturers in doubt about where their from their supplier. This also means that the NAJ’s scheme now The mark may only be struck on to products goods originate under this definition must To find out more visit www.naj.co.uk or attend our seminar at 3pm on includes anyone manufacturing jewellery that were made in the UK in accordance consult the NAJ (as the equivalent of the The NAJ will feed the consumer and trade or related products in Northern Ireland and with the Trade Descriptions Act (1968) courts for the purposes of this scheme) press with good news stories from members Monday 2nd September at IJL www.jewellerylondon.com 24 IJL Preview The Jeweller

Calvin Klein The ambassadorial role of Jeweller of the Fair this year goes to award-winning artist jeweller John Moore, renowned for his original Just a week away from the design and craftsmanship. Meanwhile, the shopping and networking Spotlight on… feature, which last year focused on the Birmingham Jewellery Quarter, looks at extravaganza that is another jewellery hot-spot for 2019… Sheffield, International Jewellery in association with the Sheffield Assay Office. London, and to whet your Workshop Live will see the skills, craftsmanship and talent that goes into appetite, here’s what the creating jewellery, taking centre stage at this show has in store. year’s IJL – everything from setting and casting to original painting and high-end goldsmithing will be demonstrated across the show.

The Inspire Seminar Programme – from lab- grown v. natural diamonds, to online v. high street, this year’s programme includes talks and panel debates; chances to discuss issues that matter. For instance Jonathan Kendall of De Beers will be ‘in conversation’ and The ircle of Love™ Fairtrade Foundation will talk about Fairtrade Gold. IJL’s trends editor, jewellery futurist Paola de Luca will look at new directions, which will also be translated on the daily catwalk shows.

Kohinoor Check out our 10-page Look Book over the Jewellers page for a preview of just some of the new collections on show. Showmanship! he aisles of established brands, offer the opportunity to gain recognition for makers and designers aside, IJL is contributions to a forward-looking global T proud to work with strategic partners, jewellery industry and recognise the best in including the NAJ, to ensure new talent is international talent from across the trade. exhibited each year. 2019 marks the 10th The winners, revealed at the exhibitor party anniversary of the KickStarter initiative and on Sunday, will be showcased at IJL 2019 15th anniversary of the Bright Young Gems. and beyond. Six up-and-coming designers will showcase their jewellery with the former, while four The Gem Empathy Award returns… with a final year students and recent graduates, will twist. The Gem-A/IJL competition, usually sit alongside them as Bright Young Gems – open to exhibitors only, now gives visitors Ro Copenhagen all can be found on the Design Gallery level. too the chance to win a gemstone – this year a 12.9ct sustainable coral cabochon – for At the front of the show are bridal/diamond their jewellery design, sourced from Enzo jewellery brands and suppliers – such as Liverino 1894. The design showcasing the Gemex, Hockley Mint, Domino and Ro coral in the most innovative, imaginative Traceable to the Canadian mine of origin in the Northwest Territories. Copenhagen, a London-based Danish brand Need to Know way wins the Award… announced on Monday Tracked individually from the rough diamond crystal to the stunning polished diamond. focused on diamond and gem set 18ct gold on the Gem-A stand. Along with the gem, jewellery. Also front of house is the Watch the winner will receive a voucher to put Date: 1st-3rd September, 2019 Each Canadian diamond is laser inscribed with a unique tracking number District, featuring names such as Calvin towards the creation of their piece and will Venue: Olympia, London W14 8UX to verify its Canadian origin and comes with a certificate of authenticity. Klein, Elliot Brown and Festina as well as be featured in Gems&Jewellery magazine. The British School of Watchmaking. Times: Sunday 1st: 10am-6pm All Canadian diamonds are set with Canadian Certified Gold™. Launched at IJL 2018, Uniquely UK Monday 2nd: 9.30-6pm Things wouldn’t be the same without returns this year thanks to the team at Tuesday 3rd: 9.30-5pm accolades to hand out and happily IJL the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design council, 2019 won’t disappoint. The inaugural which has selected a group of designers For full details visit: International Leading Lights Awards is a to highlight the skills of UK silversmiths, www.jewellerylondon.com collaboration between IJL and online trade goldsmiths, jewellery designers and industry www.mapleleafdiamonds.com title Jewellery Outlook. Eight categories professionals. [email protected] | tel.: 01299 832813 26 IJL Preview The Jeweller August 2019 IJL Preview 27

2. Gemex 6

Gemex unveils new, exclusive and extended ranges of its successful diamond set halos, shoulders and trilogy platinum engagement rings – set with GIA or IGI certified centre stones from 0.20 carats to 1.00+. Check Gemex’s award-winning box showcasing bestselling samples and free state-of-the-art CADCAM service. (D30) 6. Sheldon Bloomfield

2 An expanded diamond range sees around 100 new items, including larger pieces LOOK plus commercial lines that can be repeated pre-Christmas – like the Bubble range, Shimmering Diamond line and new platinum Art Deco rings. New dress rings feature quality gems like aquamarines, sapphires, emeralds and rubies. (C81) BOOK 5 7

3. Picchiotti

Italian diamond jewellery brand Picchiotti, has added to its Xpandable range, and now 2 019 3 features new designs of rings and bracelets. (D100) 8 7. UJT 5. 4 Domino After last year’s successful launch of an Fusion is a new line of interlocking diamond expanded tennis bracelet range, UJT rings that can be flipped to create layered is introducing a new diamond bangles looks, while Art Deco-inspired Empire collection. Available in 1.00ct increments is a new contemporary bridal range with up to 4.00ct with GH-SI diamonds, these are diamonds set to create the silhouette of available in 14ct and 18ct yellow and white different stone shapes. New Anthology gold. Manufactured in-house, prices are sees 10 collections of neck- and wrist-wear, affordable: from £950. earrings and dress rings. (D50) (D60) 8. H Tankel 10. Hockley Mint 4. Protea Diamonds Following a request to create very 1 inexpensive diamond rings – bright, with Highlighting new plain and diamond- Protea Diamonds (UK) LTD is a wholesale good colour and clarity – Tankel has set Initial pendants, plus refreshed Pure company supplying fine jewellery in the extended the line with coloured clusters. Wedding Rings sample box, and new pieces UK. From South African roots planted over “We’ve been able to source these diamonds inspired by an entwining loop motif. The 50 years ago, Protea Diamonds UK and and gemstones well below what we’d expect latter comprises around 70 Wedfit® ring associated Protea Diamond companies now to pay for this quality; a sign of the current mounts and 30+ matching pendant and stud trade in many parts of the world. economic times,” says Tony Tankel. earrings for engagement, wedding day and Bridal & Diamond (A71) (C38) anniversary markets. (D90) Jewellery 9. Giloy

Hatton Garden diamond jewellery supplier Andre Michael is showcasing premium 10 1. Bass Premier Group wedding bands from German maker Giloy. Using state-of-the-art technology and Alongside loose polished diamonds (melee systems, it offers branded wedding bands to 8ct) and fancy coloured gems, will be in 9 and 18ct gold, platinum and palladium, Diamonds for Today fine jewellery, made in plus silver sample bands. the Hatton Garden workshop, plus new Far (B71) East-made Diamond Perfection budget-priced jewellery. Check also rings with lab-grown pink diamonds, and sensuous FlexiLink bracelets. 9 LOOK (C70) 3 BOOK 2 019 28 IJL Preview The Jeweller

3. FerrariFirenze

The Tuscany-based workshop specialises in hand crafted gold and diamond jewellery, ranging from everyday to extraordinary pieces for the grandest occasions. Soffio is one of the many collection showing – soft, fluid and moveable it is feminine as well as visually graphic. (B59)

1 2 3 4. RE Morrish

This Birmingham-based manufacturer specialises in antique reproduction jewellery – around 7,000 different products covering periods from Roman and Medieval to Art Deco. In 9ct and 18ct gold, gold vermeil, and silver, the products include rings, earrings, pendants and bracelets with diamonds and gemstones. Gold Jewellery (B61)

1. Cara Tonkin 2. Mark Milton

Cara’s Icarus Collection sees layers of Mark Milton will be adding new classic textured vermeil feathers hang and glimmer. ‘80s inspired pieces, such as this lariat- 4 Inspired by the tragic myth of Icarus who style necklace, chunky chain bracelets dared to fly too near to the sun on wings and hooped earrings to its successful of feathers and wax, elegant, overlapping gold collection, plus new additions to the elements move playfully when worn. birthstone collections. (V78) (D80)

5. Unique & Co 6. MANU Schmuck

As part of its anniversary celebrations The focal points of MANU’s unmistakable last year Unique launched its 9ct Gold design in sterling silver with 18ct gold, are collection. Now it’s further investing into the sleekly elegant shapes and matte textures, range with many new styles to develop and sometimes accentuated through the complement existing pieces; designs are inclusion of brilliant-cut diamonds, coloured inspired by reinvented classics and feature gemstones or pearls. freshwater pearls and high shine with CZ. (V99) (E61)

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7. Elements Gold at Gecko

Gecko refreshes Elements Gold with 39 new pieces, with inspiration taken from Venice. Weightier gold pieces, increased diamond count and larger gemstones add to the luxe feel and there will also be a gold version of its alphabet and birthstone ranges. Elements 5 Silver includes around 70 new lines. (D71)

JEWELLERY SUPPLIER OF THE YEAR

LOOK 6 Stand B81 at IJL BOOK 2 019 [email protected] • www.ntinga.co.uk • 0208 959 6550 • #journeyofcolour 30 IJL Preview The Jeweller August 2019 IJL Preview 31

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8 9 10 Gem & Pearl Jewellery

1. Matt Aminoff

As the trend for coloured gems continues, so too the demand for vibrant pearl jewellery. Long pearl/diamond chain ‘by the yard’ 8. PJ Watson necklaces include mixed colour Tahitian and Akoya pearl with rose gold. Yellow gold PJ Watson will be launching a range of one 9. Sunshine Exim cultured pearl/gemstone necklaces give a show of a kind pieces, all designed around the of colour with amethyst, citrine and blue topaz. best possible quality coloured gemstones. Sunshine Exim will be showing full range of (C99) (D100) various colour stone jewellery with emerald, ruby, sapphire, aquamarine, amethyst, fancy sapphire, yellow and pink sapphire. It will also introduce 2 & 3. Ntinga 10. Pomegranate new range of wedfit rings at the IJL show. 2 (C68) Ntinga continues its colour journey with an 5 Pomegranate returns with its latest extensive range of gemstone jewellery. Core collections of gemstone jewellery, including collections allow customers to choose a many new pieces from Katie’s latest trip to 11 . XSJ 11 design and a gemstone, available in various Jaipur including multi-stone pendants and cuts and colours. Semi-set mounts make 5. SJ Pearls carved aquamarine and fluorite earrings – The newest collection incorporates baroque bespoke pieces possible using either their all one of a kind and handmade. grey South Sea pearls and diamonds set own stones or selecting from Ntinga’s loose 4. Ungar & Ungar From the UK’s oldest pearl importer comes (F62) into 18ct gold, for contemporary pieces, stones. this pair of fabulous South Sea pearl including sunglasses chains. Also new (B81) These amethyst and ruby rose gold earrings earrings set with Ceylon sapphires and are 18ct yellow gold initial charms and are a nod to the Belle Epoque era with a diamonds. Check also a traditional three- gemstone charms. rich combination of featured stones offered. row Akoya pearl necklet with fancy 18ct (D101) Interlocking rings include three-coloured diamond clasp and a uniquely shaped South undulating stacking bands, in rose, white Sea pearl pendant set in 18ct white gold. 12 and yellow golds, with 0.50ct of diamonds (B109) 12. Fei Liu Fine Jewellery each – perfect as a set and delicate when worn individually. A refined vintage chic feel is created in the (C59) 18ct gold Victoriana collection, comprising octagon and emerald cut stones: white gold with blue topaz and blue sapphire, yellow gold with citrine and diamonds and rose 4 gold with amethyst and pink sapphire. (V120)

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13. Prism Design

6. Raw Pearls This year sees the launch of exciting new 15 boulder opal designs for its Milburn & Celebrating a year of launches, awards and Ley brand, which also features multi stone new product lines, Raw Pearls is offering a combinations. The new Ti2 Titanium collection 15. Di Perle ‘monumental’ stock clearing at IJL – at least combines swirls, waves and graffiti patterns. 25 per cent savings on freshwater, Akoya (V100) The German pearl jewellery brand is and Tahitian pearl pieces with silver, yellow unveiling an extended finished jewellery and white gold fittings. line – over 600 different varieties of 7 (A70) pearls, from loose strands to finished pearl 14 jewellery pieces and clasps. New designs include stainless steel wire necklaces with 7. Mounir ‘floating’ pearls and keshi hanging earrings. (E81) In celebration of its 30th anniversary, Mounir 14 . Martin Guthmann is launching a 30-piece collection of best- 6 sellers from the past three decades plus new The Pforzheim manufacturer Martin pieces, including classic and contemporary Guthmann has produced jewellery with great pearls. Art Deco ‘Gem Delight’ designs will attention to detail since 1906. 18ct gold and contrast with grey and black rough diamonds Sterling silver jewellery with precious stones set in 9ct and 18ct gold. and traditional fire enamel will feature. LOOK (V80) 13 (V31) BOOK 2 019 jewellery Trusted retail leader systems in 32 IJL Preview The Jeweller

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Silver & Fashion Jewellery

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1. Sif Jakobs 2. Curteis

Alongside brand new collections for From classics with a contemporary slant to on-trend A/W, the Danish brand will be showing designs, layering wrist wear, silver studs and hoop new versions of its award-winning, multi- earrings, ID bracelets, neckwear and rings will be coloured Antella Collection, featuring among the affordable, stylish pieces. Also unveiled baguette-cut CZ stones for earrings, rings will be 9ct gold handmade, hinged bangles and and pendants. additions to the St Christopher pendants. (D91) (B21)

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3. Les Georgettes by Altesse Don’t sit on the fence

Among the new collections of cuffs, bracelets, earrings, rings and pendants from it’s time to make that decision the French brand, is the Fontaine collection featuring petal-like forms and CZs. 4 Available in three finishes with signature “You mean records When the time comes to change retail sales, stock monitoring interchangeable leather backs. and management system providers, discuss your options with (D31) 5 can be transferred 5. Isabella Liu Pursuit. It’s not just the quality of our software that’s made us from multiple shops 4. Yulan Jewellery Isabella’s new silver and CZ Twilight the market leader, it’s the effi ciency of the service behind it. collection is inspired by her travels to Egypt without re-entering And service begins at the beginning. Rather than you having to Brightening Yulan’s stand of new silver and in particular the moon and its many collections, will be a reiteration of ‘Meadow’ phases (believed to symbolise the female manually?” manually re-enter sales, stock and customer records, we can – now in colourful anodised aluminium. form and cycle of life). Bangles, rings, do it for you – and typically in a matter of a day. And the good There are bangles, rings pendants and earrings and dear cuffs take the form of full earrings… all with and without silver wire. and crescent moons. news extends to cost. Pursuit can offer full system provision with Trade prices start from just £7. (V108) (V68) inclusive support on a monthly payment basis. Like to talk? For effi cient systems and responsive support, call Pursuit now + 44 (0) 1603 263800 6. Lucy Quartermaine

Focusing on her Be Unique campaign – Follow us involving alternative ways to wear jewellery – each piece of Lucy’s jewellery is hand @PursuitSoftware finished in sterling silver or rose gold vermeil and highly polished to reflect the @PursuitSoftware LOOK individuality and personality of the wearer. (E48) integrated multi-shop and online sales and stock performance monitoring BOOK 6 2 019 www.pursuit.co.uk

Untitled-2 1 05/07/2019 10:13 34 IJL Preview The Jeweller August 2019 IJL Preview 35

3. Ora Pearls 4. Unique & Co Men’s 3

Luxury British cultured men’s and women’s Unique builds on the success of its matt, Silver & Fashion pearl jewellery brand offering fresh, fashion- brushed finishes, with new designs inspired forward designs and branding. Affordable by architecture and engineering, combining

8 fine quality cultured pearl jewellery, innovative materials (titanium and tungsten Jewellery handmade in Chelsea, London by Bibi as well as steel) with attention to detail. Southwell. Other styles feature lacquered wood and (V30) shell inlays. (E61)

7. Collette Waudby

Following the success of last year’s Gingko

Collection, Collette has substantially 4 extended the line using her trademark 7 techniques. Slightly smaller in scale, the 9 timeless pieces dovetail seamlessly with past ranges. (V70) 10. Clogau 9. Nova Silver Inspired by swirling seas and the turning 8. Unique & Co Silver Following strong interest and demand, of the tide, Ebb and Flow features abalone’s Norwich-based Nova Silver is expanding its blues and greens, with touches of purple Over 50 new styles across silver include capacity for manufacture of trade customers’ and white, enhanced by luminous iolite. 2 designs inspired by nature and organic forms own designs – a service that was introduced Known as water sapphire and the Vikings’ and often feature pavé, rhodium or vermeil in 2016. The brand continues to create its compass, iolite was used to navigate highlights. own sterling silver, fashion-led collections. through stormy seas. (E61) (F64) (D61) Watches

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1 1. Calvin Klein

Squarely is just one of the key themes for Calvin Klein watches… along with the off- beat Offsite and laid-back Fraternity. Strong statement jewellery pieces complement 3 many of the lines. 11 . CW Sellors (D81)

Inspired by the North Yorkshire coast and its handcrafting of Whitby Jet, CW Sellors’ Sea Life features unique jewellery 2. Festina and Lotus @ Unique designed around ocean wildlife and animals. The octopus designs feature intricately coiled tentacles and hand-cut and A new Swiss Made range of his and her, polished jet cabochons set into chosen pieces for extra life. three-hand models join Festina. The 11 (D40) stainless steel-cased watches, with Swiss movement, sapphire glass and 100m water resistance, also feature a gold PVD model with leather strap. On-trend Lotus addresses a young, modern audience with sporty-yet- elegant chromos. Men’s Jewellery (E61)

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2 1. Anchor & Crew 2. Tribal Silver 3. Elliot Brown

The latest collection is ‘Dinghy’ – cool, Men’s bracelet specialist, Midhaven The British adventure watch brand will sophisticated simplicity. Made of natural is launching its new range of fully unveil two new RNLI special edition models, hide leather and available in Raven interchangeable sterling silver bracelets. each with faces influenced by the iconic Black, Mocha Brown, Azure Blue, Shadow Beautifully crafted and hand finished, this Lifeboat colours with white and blue 12h Grey, Racing Green and Bordeaux Red ‘mix & match’ range comprises five bracelet markers. For each watch sold Elliot Brown – complementing new mixed-beaded styles and 70 feature clasps. will donate £35 in support of the RNLI, bracelets. (F79) whose anchor features on the case back. LOOK (V91) (D21a) BOOK 2 019 August 2019 IJL Preview 37

1 KickStarters

1. Hannah Blackwood

Tempus Fugit is inspired by the Memento Mori of the C15th - 17th – modern pieces that remind the wearer to live for the moment. The pocket watch – the perfect symbol of this as it marks the passage of time – is translated with sapphires and rubies replacing internal watch workings. 4. Lukas Caspar

This fine jewellery brand, founded 3 by third-generation jeweller Lukas Grewenig, combines a romantic sensitivity influenced by traditional British jewellery with a modern aesthetic and technical innovation. A patent pending surface makes hidden images appear under certain light conditions; specially designed gem cuts bring out unexpected reflections in sapphires, garnets or tourmalines.

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3. Bine Roth 2. Becca Macdonald Trained as a jewellery designer in Germany, Every silver stroke of Becca’s 'Brushstrokes' Bine holds an MA in Textiles Mixed collection is hand-painted. The ‘Paint Media where she combined traditional Pot’ pieces capture the residue from a materials with contemporary techniques. painter’s pot. The transient nature of her Her knowledge of craft and materials, with making process makes each piece unique. new technologies as research, inspires her “A fleeting movement is permanently designs, many characterised by strong preserved and transformed into a striking shapes with the lightness of movable chains. piece of wearable art."

6. Aurelie Dellasanta

Aurelie’s latest collection, Urban Animals, showcases a series of precious metal animals adorned with human elements inspired by punk culture. She finely handcrafts mohawks, spikes and dangling charms to give these cute creatures a unique edgy style and turn them into timeless 5 fairytale-like treasures. 4

5. Vanessa Pederzani

Inspired by the Italian saying ‘mordere la vita’ (to bite life), the Kiss collection advises seizing life’s opportunities without fear, reaching goals with all our potential and grit. 6 In 18ct gold and precious stones, it translates its message by aggressive open mouths of LOOK killer whales, lions and shark teeth. BOOK 2 019 38 IJL Preview The Jeweller The complete solution Bright Young Gems for today’s jeweller

The four winning designers of Bright Young Gems 2019 are: Isla Gilham, Eloise Kramer, Lingjun Sun, Wen-Ju Tseng. Along with the 2019 KickStarters, be sure to visit their stands while you’re at IJL.

Now in its 14th year, the Bright Young Gems project selects talented designers Isla Gilham who are recent graduates or current students of UK jewellery schools. These future star designers have the chance to exhibit their work at IJL, as well as benefit from With a workshop in Somerset Isla creates dedicated mentoring from jewellery experts before and during the event. pieces with playful twists… often ‘good enough to eat’. She hand-carves ‘bites’ from The winners include an expert cutter and opal-specialising gemmologist based in juicy gemstones, setting them in vermeil, Australia (Lingjun Sun), a previous winner of Solange Azagury-Partridge award which also appears to have been tasted, (Eloise Kramer), a designer who focuses on hand carved gems (Isla Gilham) and scattered with crumbs and twisted a jewellery designer challenging societal expectations (Wen-Ju Tseng). All four studied at Central Saint Martins, University of London (CSM).

This year the calibre of the entrants was so high, there were also four highly commended entrants: Chih Ning Li (Birmingham University), Naomi Scott (Glasgow School of Art), Caroline Wellesley (Sir John Cass School – East London) From industry leading 3D CAD software from Gemvision, to the unparalleled quality of and Sarah Christian (Hereford College of Arts). They will receive free entry to IJL and be invited to networking opportunities within the show. EnvisionTEC 3D printers and the world's favourite laser welding and engraving solutions from Coherent-Ro‘ n, GVUK Design has the complete solution and toolbox for your business.

DESIGN & PRESENT PRINT & MANUFACTURE CUSTOMISE & REPAIR Wen-Ju Tseng

Wen-Ju scrutinises an individual’s role in modern society by challenging how societal expectations create a worrying trend to commodify everything we do into unrealistic values. Wryly humorous, ENVISIONTEC VIDA HD CDLM COHERENT-ROFIN her collection ‘How Valuable Are You?’ A new dimension to Gemvision’s 3D PRINTER EASYJEWEL LASER ENGRAVER diagnoses modern neuroses by taking advanced CAD solutions. everyday objects as the basis for her The latest technology in Laser marking and engraving jewellery. The status of familiar objects, 3D jewellery printing of rings or – at components gives like a credit card or condom, is elevated by the level of customisation and crafting pieces in precious materials. The most cost-e ective personalisation required by the printer on the market discerning customer without Cost-e ective 3D design software Full build in around 1 hour compromising on quality. for retailers and online jewellers. 90% wax prototype models in under 1 hour Lingjun Sun COHERENT-ROFIN DESKTOP 7004 LASER WELDER Having worked for 10 years as an Opal Eloise Kramer cutter in Australia, Lingjun has recently Laser welding of precious metals completed a two-year MA Jewellery Design o ers high quality invisible joining Eloise tells romantic, whimsical stories project in CSM. His understanding of opals NEW and repair in platinum, palladium, through jewellery, balancing figurative reshapes the value of the parent rock in ONLINE VERSION gold, silver, titanium and other elements inspired by art and nature which most boulder opals are found, the Edit your designs from with clean lines and colour. She enjoys opal itself forming a liquid skin across the anywhere on any device, precious metals. with new monthly experimenting with unusual combinations surface of the rugged bespoke ironstone payment plans of materials and processes, whilst being cuts he devises. This material mixes and respectful of the heritage and craftsmanship unusual colour palettes creates plays on of jewellery. proportion and scale.

LOOK The Benevolent Society will provide each BYG winner with a £200 for travel and accommodation. WWW.GVUKDESIGN.CO.UK | T: 0113 389 9710 | E: [email protected] BOOK YOUR GEMVISION, ENVISIONTEC AND COHERENT–ROFIN SPECIALIST DISTRIBUTOR FOR THE UK AND IRELAND 2 019

0020 ll ae dertly 201921029mm2.indd 1 002019 08:38 40 Profile The Jeweller August 2019 Spotlight on a Gemstone 41

kickstart I needed, and I’ve gone on to do September’s birthstone, Cara Tonkin the show every year since. sapphire, is one of the most (2014) popular gemstones in the UK… “Business is growing year-on-year. I sell “I’d wanted to do a trade show for a while mostly to the trade, bringing out a new and blue isn’t the only option, but felt daunted by everything involved. But collection annually, which works well for my says Delyth Du Plooy, FGA I needed to get my jewellery seen by more stockists. I also take part in retail shows and buyers, and IJL is London’s main event for DGA, of Ruppenthal UK. exhibitions, and sales through my website the trade, so where better to start? I’d heard have increased throughout the years. about KickStart and known jewellers who Images courtesy had done it previously – it provided stepping of Ruppenthal. stones into the industry with press coverage “Is KickStart still as relevant today? A tricky and help with planning and preparation. question. Fewer buyers visit trade shows I was also impressed with the creativity these days and instead find people through and quality of the work selected – it was an platforms like Instagram. So, while nothing exciting part of IJL to be involved in. beats getting out there and showing your work, you need to cover all bases and have “I had a really good experience; I gained a strong online presence. The industry has 10 new stockists which I was thrilled about. seen a tough time over the last couple of Being a KickStarter really helped boost my years, but I think it’s improving. I hope that show presence. Even though I was new to the industry, I think it added a certain accolade brands don’t become despondent – we need and helped gain the trust of buyers who to encourage people to attend shows – talk, might otherwise be a bit nervous of working interact and share, especially with new Sapphirea stone of many colours with start-up businesses. It gave me the designers. So yes… it’s relevant.”

The stone is a particular favourite for In fact pure corundum is colourless. relevant, are extremely rare and not engagement rings, for the pragmatic reason Chemically it consists of aluminium commercially viable! that it is the second hardest mineral after oxide and the colour variations are due to diamond – it will resist abrasion from daily combinations of trace elements – including Specific colours are often associated with wear better than most other gemstones. That iron, titanium and vanadium – contained Ten years ago the NAJ/IJL’s particular localities: Australia, Thailand doesn’t mean sapphire cannot be damaged within the trigonal crystal structure as KickStart was born and since though – all jewellery should be kept in their impurities. and Nigeria tend to produce dark inky then has seen many talented new boxes when not worn, to keep the stones in blue varieties, while by contrast Montana pristine condition. The majority of sapphires are heat-treated – sapphires occur in a full range of colours, KickStarter jewellery designers achieve success, gem quality sapphires which don’t require usually of a more pastel hue. The pale steely thanks to this launchpad. Two past Thanks in no small part to the media, treatment are incredibly rare and valuable. bluish green colour is highly prized and KickStarters tell their stories. jewellery lovers are very familiar with this Usually carried out at the mine, heat unique to the area. Success Stories beautiful blue gemstone, and are aware of treatment has been used for hundreds of the high value of sapphires worn by the rich years to improve the colour, remove colour A large proportion of sapphires on and famous. The Duchess of Cambridge's zoning and improve clarity. fabulous sapphire and diamond cluster the market today are from Sri Lanka, engagement ring, previously owned by Inclusions are not all bad though – star Madagascar and Mozambique. As is Princess Diana, is a classic design that is sapphires contain tiny needle-like inclusions the case with the majority of coloured was elevated further after I won the KickStart remains a very popular choice today. of rutile, which create the effect of a white gemstones, sapphires are traded Imogen Belfield ‘Stylesight’ Award. internationally and (2012) Corundum is the mineral name for sapphire “Since KickStart, I've continued to present change hands many and ruby. The Latin word ‘saphirus’ and my jewellery at trade shows in the UK and times before arriving in “I decided to apply for KickStart as I had the Greek word ‘sapheiros’, both meaning internationally, including USA, Dubai and the jeweller’s window, been a part of Bright Young Gems the blue, is where the name is thought to have Hong Kong. In addition to this we do a lot of year prior, and it seemed like the perfect originated, although many ancient cultures making origin very custom and bespoke designs, including bridal progression for my brand. did not have a word for ‘blue’, therefore difficult to determine. and couture jewellery design. There have also green, brown, yellow and blue varieties of been collaborations and partnering with films "We received a day of mentorship ahead corundum would all have been referred to as The demand for and TV shows to create jewellery for actors on of the event, which was a great intro sapphire. the screen. coloured gemstone into how best to merchandise stock and jewellery is on the Today all gem quality corundum, other than look at pricing structures, as well as “I think for a brand wanting an introduction increase – which the red variety we call ruby, is referred to digital materials to prepare for press and into international markets, with the support must be a cause for as sapphire. The description of the colour buyers. Susanna Hammond, who headed and mentorship of an amazing team, including celebration! And up the press team for IJL at the time, forms part of the name, and so we have the NAJ’s Lindsey Straughton, then KickStart sapphires with their was incredibly supportive of my work, pink sapphire, green sapphire and purple is definitely one to go for. It prepares you well sapphire. star that appears to float over the surface of array of fabulous colours and their superior including the designs in their mail-outs and and gives the opportunity to take your product the stone when it is moved under the light. durability, make an excellent choice, for catalogues for the show. into the commercial market, engaging with One of the most highly prized ‘fancy’ colours The phenomenon is known as asterism and statement, fashionable jewellery as well as key press and international stores. It also is Padparadscha sapphire, a stunning, being relatively rare these stones are greatly “The KickStart stand was really well placed helps new designers by lowering the costs to engagement rings. It’s also worth noting rare, pinkish-orange variety named after sought after. that in Medieval times sapphire was within the show arena, and meant I received take part, making it incredibly competitively the Sinhalese word for lotus blossom. believed to protect the wearer from harm, several orders from new stockists. Press priced compared to many other trade shows.” This particular colour is unique among Sapphire is found in many different locations gemstones and was the much-admired around the world including the UK, although while also representing trust and loyalty… choice of stone in Princess Eugenie’s before you set off to dig up your garden, perfect for those who value a touch of If you'd like to see how NAJ can help develop your jewellery business, contact Lindsey Straughton [email protected] engagement ring. these occurrences, although geologically spirituality alongside beauty and rarity. 42 Opinion The KP Elephant in the Room Has to be Dealt With

The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme It should come as no surprise to anyone in Southern Africa that the enthusiasm to (KPCS) Intersessional Meeting in Mumbai comply with what is perceived as new a form of economic colonialism is pretty limited. completed its half yearly meeting recently. It gave When countries are asked to make rules, us some time to reflect on why the KPCS agenda which could hurt them immediately once agreed upon, it’s difficult to find common is moving so slowly, says Ernie Blom, president, ground.

World Federation of Bourses. The dilemma which they face is even stronger. Old Roman law was based on the principle of ‘Nulla poena sine lege’ – ‘no penalty without a law’. In modern times, it’s a ndoubtedly, the KPCS is one of strongest possible control mechanisms to basic requirement of the rule of law – one of the great accomplishments of the guarantee that the diamonds imported into the most widely held value-judgments in the worldwide diamond community their countries are not tainted by any form entire history of human thought. of the last two decades. Since the of abuse. UWFDB-IDMA Congress in Antwerp in 2000, If KP Participants are faced with ‘prima facie’ enormous steps have been made to create a The same is also true for producing nations. judgments by large corporations and feel safer, conflict-free diamond trade. They are entitled to protect the interests the enormous commercial consequences in of their natural resources. So, what should their supply chain – and this without any At the cradle of the success was an inspiring producers say – in the interest of their written rule or law – then one should not cooperation between NGOs, governments and, be surprised at their particularly, the World Diamond Council, with reluctance to have a huge debt owed to the first WDC president, a rule adopted in a Eli Izhakoff. Without his wisdom, political formal manner and skills, warm personality and engagement to included in the KP bring about the betterment of African lives, all Core Document. this would not have been possible. In our opinion, there Today, diamonds are a very well-controlled should be a rule in the commodity. More than 99.5 per cent of the current definition of diamonds produced fall under a certification conflict diamonds that regime. includes any systemic violence. At the same Yet, for many years, real progress on a few time, the objective important issues seems to have been stalled. analysis of facts should Is it because there isn’t enough debate? Are be the cornerstone the matters at stake not clear enough? Or is of verification of there an elephant in the room that no-one allegations, and ‘trial wants to acknowledge? by media’ cannot be part of that solution. A lot of water has gone under the bridge nation – when large retail companies make discussing the definition of conflict diamonds. an announcement that certain countries’ This is the elephant that the Indian KP chair The WFDB wholeheartedly supports the production isn’t allowed to be sold through has to ride. If he can do that successfully decision of the WDC that the definition be them? and neutralise what is perceived as a real expanded to include all forms of systemic threat of becoming excluded, he will have violence. Any decision taken at the KP or elsewhere accomplished what many have failed to affects the entire diamond industry – from achieve in the past 10 years. From the World But we also believe it’s time to name the mining to the manufacturers and dealers as Federation of Diamond Bourses, we wish elephant in the room. Of course, consuming well as to the smallest retail shop – which Shri Alok Vardan Chaturvedi much luck in nations have the right to demand that the affects the lives of tens of millions of people. this major task. 44 Education The Jeweller Education 45 JET Practical The Latest Clarity & Training Days Success Award Winners

hen it comes to education there are various aspects to be learnt in order to do the best backed my own desire to learn more. From W job – these include knowledge, JET courses to supplier training sessions, skills and behaviours. For example, to be they ensure all employees are well versed in a good jewellery salesperson you need jewellery knowledge. Knowledge is power, product knowledge – about different types and regardless of my experience, there will of jewellery, diamonds, coloured gemstones always be new things to learn. and hallmarking. You also need skills such as how to take a ring size, maybe how to “My final assignment involved an use a microscope and a refractometer. You engagement ring sale, explaining and using will need to develop certain behaviours like the 4Cs to ensure the client is confident sales and customer care. While product to close the sale; assessing repairs; knowledge can be learnt from academic repairing/restoring an antique piece, and study – reading a book or study materials or Rebecca Baethge the alternatives available, like creating a new piece. This was a fun topic! So much Catherine Jones attending a talk or presentation – skills and Galio (March) behaviours need a more active approach to to learn and talk about! Jewellery-wise, Pravins (May) learning, learning that requires you to `have diamonds are my absolute favourite subject! “When I lived in the US I managed a shop a go’ and practising how to do something. “I walked past Pravins for years before for a large jewellery retailer. Moving to the “I really enjoyed learning and exploring my job interview – jewellery wasn’t on my UK, I wanted to get back into the trade as The NAJ is excited to announce that as convention marks, how and why they are radar. Two years later it’s a passion! Pravins soon as possible! I love the unique designs, applied. Coming from the US, it was an of Autumn 2019 it is re-launching its JET Marion Wilson from the is a family business that takes pride in its lthough ideal for students on luxurious atmosphere and jewellery quality unfamiliar subject. I really love how you can Practical Training Days, which will provide Birmingham Assay Office says: passionate, expert team. I’m tasked with the JET Certificate or the JET at Galio and have been working here for trace a piece back to the supplier, when it an invaluable opportunity for colleagues to Learning & Development for newcomers. A Diploma, the JET Practical over two years. was hallmarked, etc, just by a few symbols. get hands-on with some of the theoretical “Our industry needs people who are Training Days will also be JET has been very useful to me, the lessons knowledge that is contained in the JET knowledgeable, enthusiastic and motivated of interest to anyone who wants a hands- “Teaching about diamonds meant I felt well- “Owners Sarah and David Gillow, really qualifications. For example, there will be and topics will come up in the work-day… no more than ever before. We are pleased on introduction to identifying coloured encourage education and training and have ‘if’, only ‘when’.” prepared for writing about them. They’re the chance to identify coloured gemstones, to cooperate with the NAJ in delivering gemstones, diamonds, diamond simulants fascinating – so many intricacies that a diamonds and diamond simulants, using the these practical sessions. Previous interactive and hallmarks. client should consider before choosing their relevant tools. Participants will also learn days offered by the Birmingham Assay perfect diamond, so going in-depth for this how to read and interpret hallmarks Office received fantastic feedback and we project was a lot of fun. The most enjoyable We are delighted to be teaming up with the “Joshua’s guidance and knowledge has are confident that delegates will find these topic was on palladium; I wasn’t familiar UK Assay Offices in London, Birmingham courses really worthwhile.” helped ease me into the industry and and Sheffield, to offer these days – a the results have paid off – an A for each with it… and it’s really interesting – where it collaboration with Edinburgh and Dublin assignment! I’m so grateful for that. JET 2 is comes from and how it became considered Assay Offices is also on the cards. Not only Emma Paragreen from the next on the agenda. precious. will participants have access to a training Sheffield Assay Office adds: day in their area, but they will also take a “The most enjoyable part of the course was “JET has been immensely useful. Each tour of the hallmarking floor, learn more “The JET Practical Training Days will be of Forthcoming dates are: learning about gemstones. It’s fascinating to assignment has massively contributed about the amazing history of hallmarking great benefit to anyone working in the trade. discover the history and varieties. I also liked to my understanding of jewellery – my and see first-hand the new techniques that Sheffield Assay Office is delighted to be confidence in dealing with a wide variety Birmingham: the assignment discussing the 4Cs, and how are now being used. hosting one of the training days and looking each attributes to a diamond’s value. of topics has skyrocketed. I’ve loved forward to facilitating a tour of the premises, Thursday, 3rd October 2019 showing my team my assignments and enabling participants to see first-hand how Christopher Cristoforu “I would certainly recommend JET to others what I’ve learned and seeing them use this the office assays and marks precious metals.” Sheffield: Stanley James (April) – It’s an excellent base to start from if you’re information. Thursday, 23rd January 2020 thinking of a new career within jewellery or “I’m really looking forward to my second Adam Phillips from the “I was introduced to the trade by Joshua want to develop your skills further. Doing London Assay Office says: London: Krett, the owner of Stanley James and I the course has given me a better idea of JET course – it covers an even wider array of subjects. I’m also planning to take JET Wednesday, 18th March 2020 have worked here for three years. It is a what I would like to do once I complete JET “Even with the wealth of information available wonderful feeling to see a customer smile. I 2, which would be diamond grading. I also for Professional Jewellers’ Management; my on multi-media platforms there is nothing want each experience to be memorable, and want to learn more about Swiss watches and goal is to manage my own store and play a better than to gain hands-on experience will do whatever it takes in order to meet perhaps design my own pieces of jewellery key part in developing an incredible team from people whose wealth of know-how their needs. in the future.” of people.” enables them to answer any question you To book visit naj.co.uk/short- have immediately, giving you the necessary courses, email education@naj. understanding behind the processes.” co.uk or call 0121 237 1135. Is your team 'JET powered'? For more information including the new JET Essentials programme, visit naj.co.uk/qualifications. 46 NAJ News The Jeweller WE WANT TO BUY YOUR Here are 10 practical hints, tips and questions you should consider: CLIENT’S LUXURY WATCHES 1. Ask yourself: are there any movement 7. If you have a security fogging machine, detector blind spots in the premises, is it connected to the intruder alarm Over 30 years of experience buying & selling luxury watches possibly caused by showcases or other detection as well as to the personal The furniture? attack buttons? 2. Are any detectors blocked by items on 8. The intruder alarm detection which shelves or on top of cabinets? triggers security fogging should not be on the entry/exit route on the alarm 3. Have new furniture or display cabinets system. been added to the premises after the Hole original alarm was installed? It’s so 9. Even if a room or loft space is empty it easy to inadvertently create blind spots still needs alarm detection equipment. with furniture and fittings that were The sooner an intruder is detected the not present when the alarm detection sooner the police can be called. Also system was originally designed and unalarmed, vacant spaces can be utilised installed. by intruders to lie in wait for premises owners to open up in the mornings. in the 4. Is it possible to install vibration detectors on the walls of the premises? 10. Finally, if you’re next door to an unoccupied premises, or a neighbouring 5. Almost all alarm systems are set up to premises becomes unoccupied, even require two independent detectors that if only for a short time, check daily the must be triggered before police are security of the unoccupied premises. able to respond. If a safe is against an Wall Where possible, look for signs of a break- external or party wall with neighbouring in as this is often a precursor to a ‘hole premises it needs to have a safe limpet in the wall’ attack on a neighbouring and a vibration detector on the wall (possibly YOUR) premises. How secure is the to protect against safe attack through the wall. There have been a number of structure of your attacks into the rear of safes, which have *The entry/exit route is the area of the premises, premises? Asks not been picked up by alarm detectors. which the business owner enters prior to de- activating the alarm. Police will not be called if the 6. Do you have any target goods such as Neil McFarlane of detectors on the entry/exit route are the only alarms jewellery and watches on the *entry/exit triggered nor will the security fogging machine go insurers TH March. route of the alarm? Hopefully not! off if only entry/exit route detectors are triggered.

here are a growing number of burglaries where unlawful entry to premises is gained through the walls of the building and not via Tthe more usual route of doors and windows. Both external and party walls connecting to neighbouring properties have been breached. This is a worrying trend. However, there are plans you can put in place to mitigate the threat.

It is of course vitally important to spot any intrusions as soon as possible with alarm systems and where installed, monitored Come & Visit us: CCTV. Unfortunately on a couple of recent CMJ - August Trade Event IJL - Olympia London occasions, alarm systems have not activated. 4 - 5 August 2019 1 - 3 September 2019 This has been because intruders have made use of alarm blind spots in retail and other areas where counters and furniture have blocked the view of alarm detectors. FREE Valuation - No minimum order / Free registration, no subscription fees / No A regular review of all premises security and procedures is crucial and in light of experience needed – we provide knowledge and expertise / Immediate decisions and the growing trend for entering premises through walls, particular attention should be instant profi ts with no risks / Speedy transaction – payment to you within the hour paid to space and perimeter alarm detection. Insured postage paid by BQW (insured up to £15,000)

The above points are a general guide. If you’re unsure about any aspect of your alarm protection coverage, contact your insurance broker or alarm company for advice. Visit TH March and the We buy & Sell: NAJ at IJL on stand E21 Should you decide to make any alterations to security at your premises or make changes Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Breitling, Cartier, Franck Muller, Call: +44 (0)203 538 5132 to your alarm provider, please contact your local TH March account executive to ensure Hublot, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Omega, Patek Philippe and compliance with your insurance policy terms and conditions. other Luxury Watches. Email: [email protected]

Follow us: Facebook / Twitter / Instagram BQ Watches, BQW House, 1 Back Lane, Edgware, Middlesex HA8 0HS | [email protected] | bqwatches.com

etheewelleu1.in 1 010201 1042 August 2019 Gold Market Report 49

old traded below six-year highs Geo-political tensions triggered by trade Gold touched $1,438.63 an ounce for the in mid-July, supported by conflicts, and heightened tensions in the first time in six years in June, supported G expectations the US Fed (Federal Middle East, could further bolster gold by expectations of a rate cut by major Reserve) would cut interest rates, while prices. central banks and concerns about the global sterling risked further falls against the dollar economy. What to Expect due to fears over a possible ‘no-deal’ Brexit. Financial market uncertainty and accommodative monetary policy will For UK jewellers and manufacturers, the A rate cut in the world’s biggest economy continue to support gold investment cost of restocking dollar-denominated would make gold, which has no yield, demand in the short term, a study published gold may rise if the pound continues to fall from IJL 2019 relatively more attractive to investors by the World Gold Council (WGC) in July against the dollar, especially if a no-deal Awards, talent, brands & inspiration compared with alternative assets. showed. Brexit becomes more likely. Other central banks also appear more likely In its mid-year gold outlook for 2019, the Boris Johnson, the new Conservative prime to cut rates due to growing concerns about industry body said that price momentum minister, appears to have set in stone the outlook for global economic growth, and structural economic reforms in India Britain’s exit from the EU by 31st October, fuelled by trade disputes between the and China, will be key drivers of demand for whether or not Britain reaches an agreement United States and some of its trade partners. the precious metal. with the bloc.

Be Inspired “The Fed is expected to reduce interest “Together with flagging signs of a Analysts believe that if Britain were to leave Inspire Seminar Programme: The Inspire rates by 25 basis points at the Federal Open worsening global economic slowdown, the EU without a deal, the pound could fall Seminar Programme includes seminars and panel Market Committee meeting (held at the the WGC identifies a number of risks that further against the dollar and the Bank of end of July) and recent statements from could emerge in the coming months to force England could cut interest rates to close to debates, discussing issues that matter, and the trends that Fed chairman Jerome Powell would seem policymakers to loosen policy,” the WGC zero. shape jewellery and watches from across the industry. to support that assessment,” wrote Lawrie said. Williams, gold market commentator with “We expect the pound to continue Workshop Live!: bullion dealer Sharps Pixley. “These include increasing trade disputes weakening heading into the crunch autumn The skills, craftsmanship and between the US and its trade partners, Brexit period,” MUFG analysts said in a note talent that goes into creating jewellery will take centre Fed policymakers were scheduled to meet as well as the impact of Brexit and other to investor clients. stage, with everything from setting and casting Discover Trends on 30th-31st July. economic and political issues in Europe.” to original painting and high-end goldsmithing. SS20 Trends Catwalk: The catwalk will give Disclaimer: any opinions expressed in this “Should the Fed reduce rates by 50 basis Gold prices have risen more than 11 per article are solely those of the author. This visitors an in-depth and comprehensive review of points that would be hugely bullish for cent since hitting the year’s low of $1,265.85 article should not be seen as investment Jeweller of the Fair: The Jeweller of the Fair Spring/Summer 2020 jewellery trends, brought to you gold,” Williams wrote. per ounce in May, mainly on expectations advice. 2019 will honour Artist Jeweller, John Moore. Enjoy the by leading international trend forecaster, Paola De Luca. of aggressive monetary policy easing due opportunity to interact with his work across a wide range “If the Fed defies expectations and keeps to concerns over trade disputes, slowing The Watch District: interest rates unchanged at its end-of-month business investment and fears over David Brough is IJL’s precious Metals of platforms at IJL. Shop for leading watch meeting, we could see a big knock-back in weakening economic growth. & Gems editor. He previously covered brands at the Watch District, in a premium location precious metals prices, but given Powell’s commodity markets, including precious Leading Lights Awards: Designed to celebrate right at the front of the show. Featuring Watch brands recent statements we see this scenario as Spot gold was steady at $1,413.68 an ounce metals, for Reuters and is editor and co- unlikely.” on 16th July. founder of JewelleryOutlook.com the innovation, craftsmanship, design and distribution such as Elliot Brown, as well as The British School of fashion forward talent across the globe. The NAJ are of Watchmaking. sponsors of the Blogger of the Year award in its second year. Join the celebrations on Sunday 1st September Cutting-edge talent: Meet the up-and-coming from 6pm at IJL. designers selected as KickStart and Bright Young Gems at IJL 2019, as they showcase their cutting-edge jewellery on a collective stand in the prestigious Design Gallery. Make Connections Spotlight on: Sheffield will feature in this year’s Spotlight On programme. Discover the city as a jewellery centre and enjoy a showcase of the city’s past, present and future.

The best in industry: IJL is the pre-eminent annual destination for the best of British fine jewellery. Meet and do business with our carefully curated selection of industry-leading brands from across the globe.

Register for free at: jewellerylondon.com/attend 50 Fine Jewellery Show The Jeweller August 2019 Fine Jewellery Show 51

A recent exhibition brought Maria Kotsoni together a curated gathering of stunning high jewellery collections. Couture Sarah Zhuang

Nanis

XSJ London Leonori ey buyers, consumer and trade press, influencers and potential private customers were all on the guest list to attend the Ktwo-day event in central London in July. Following last year’s successful launch, Leonori Facets PR reprieved Couture London, this time with seven UK and international With gems as its core business, a beautiful brands and designers showcasing their Magerit stone is often the starting point of design for collections. Most were on hand to reveal this Italian brand. In white or rose 18ct gold, the inspirations and nuances of their the main collection revolves around florals pieces to visitors, who included buyers with pink sapphires and diamonds – a blend from Harvey Nichols and Kabiri. of traditional skills with modern design.

Samira Jafari Sarah Zhuang Maria Kotsoni Maria Kotsoni Nanis Samira Jafari With signature textures and organic looks, Handcrafted in 18ct gold, Fantasy Garden is Growing up in Cyprus, ancient cultures Samira’s work is inspired by 1960s designers inspired by bees, ladybirds and dragonflies, are key points of reference for Maria’s 18ct like Andrew Grima and her former teacher and is set with a palette of coloured yellow gold jewellery. Alongside the strong Alan Gard. Certain techniques arrive by sapphires for statement earrings, rings pieces, simple in their symbolism, is another accident (such as melted gold dropped into and necklaces. Other decorative pieces are hand-sculpted collection – Spiked – taking icy water to form little cup shapes) while themed around water, leaves and flowers. its inspiration from the ways that nature others employ ‘trade secrets’, like ‘plaster Already stocked in retailers in Hong Kong, protects itself from predators. Intersections and plasticine’ to create depth and 3D China and Japan, Sarah aims to expand her is a modern, geometric line of flat plains and effects. presence in the UK and internationally. Doric influences.

Nanis XSJ Magerit

Strong fashion looks combine with The new grey pearls and chain line features This Spanish brand handcrafts ultra- practicality in this luxury Italian collection. interesting new designs like necklaces for detailed jewellery in its Madrid workshop Multi-stone reversible earrings, lariat- holding sunglasses, with detachable clips to – miniature sculptures, with the female style necklaces to be worn multiple ways, create a regular necklace, or baby baroque form often the central focus to tell a story in gem-finished open bangles worn singly pearls on tassel-finished lariats. Also matt white gold with precious gemstones. or stacked, wearer-friendly clasps and new is a range of 18ct gold and diamond Meanwhile, Eternal tells the Romeo & Juliet dramatic, retro style pastel gem set pieces alphabet charms that clip-on to bracelets or story via ivy leaf designs with sprinkles of all feature in the collection. necklaces. diamonds. Samira Jafari 52 Industry News The Jeweller August 2019 NAJ News 53

Marie Walshe at Goldsmiths’ Fair 2019 Goldsmiths' Fair The CMJ and the NAJ have boosted cooperation, launching a joint task force aimed at increasing mutual sales and membership services. John Garland-Taylor and bespoke pieces. This year the Fair is celebrating ‘collectors’ and ‘collections’ encouraging everyone to ask, ‘What makes an object meaningful and why?’ What s part of the enhanced drives collectors to collect? A special collaboration, NAJ’s Jewellery exhibition showcases treasured items from Education Training (JET) the collections of six collectors, along with qualifications will be promoted interviews describing the inspiration that Aby CMJ, the UK’s largest jewellery buying compels them to collect. Holts is NAJ group, to its members. Another exhibition brings together CMJ members can now benefit from Maria Frantzi at examples of silver boxes from the Goldsmiths' Fair Conference reduced fees for JET qualifications, Goldsmiths’ Company Collection and including Jewellers Certificate and the Pearson Silver Collection. When master silversmiths take on the challenge Gold Sponsor Diploma, and the more specialist Business of creating a box, the results can be Development and Management Diplomas. The 37th Goldsmiths’ Fair, the fine jewellery unexpectedly magical. Holts Gems is confirmed as a Gold A new incoming JET essentials training and contemporary silver event, returns to Sponsor of the forthcoming NAJ programme is also eligible for CMJ Goldsmiths’ Hall, London (24th September Conference 2019 (14th-16th September, discount – companies can apply to the Most days, the Fair hosts industry Barnfather Designs – 6th October, closed 30th September) to experts in conversation on topics such as held at Loughborough University). Benevolent Society for full or part funding showcase extraordinary talent and celebrate sustainability, luxury craft, silver Judaica, Delegates at the event will be able for their employees. collecting. gemstones, craftsmanship and iconic to visit Holt’s stand in the Gemstone jewellery brands. Speakers include jewellery Market exhibition area of the hugely With 136 jewellers and silversmiths experts, gemstone specialists, jewellery popular Conference, as well as meet and showcasing their latest collections, expect editors, designers, master craftsmen, network with representatives from Holts innovative design, cutting edge techniques curators and industry trend watchers. over the weekend. NAJ-CMJ Task Force

“CMJ and NAJ both want the industry The Autumn Trade Event delivered a to sell more jewellery and watches,” CMJ schedule of experiences to help members consultant and interim business leader make new contacts and bolster businesses. Helen Dimmick said. “We’ll promote our Get Your Rocks On, was ‘speed dating’ mutual sales and services by focusing with a twist – match-making suppliers and our joint resources on providing industry retailers. Members had the opportunity to be solutions. The CMJ, which aims to ‘Lead, introduced to new areas of trade and those Engage, Enhance’, and the NAJ, will actively who made the most number of meetings promote each other’s businesses.” were rewarded with prizes.

CMJ will direct members to the NAJ for The Hall of Inspiration and Innovation Isabella Liu appropriate courses as they offer excellent showcased industry newness and hosted relevance, content and value. “In return, learning workshops offering expert advice we appreciate the NAJ will proactively on skills such as social media or how to champion the membership benefits of being dress a shop floor. Sales staff also attended Brigitte Adolph part of CMJ,” Dimmick added. training sessions on selling diamonds, gemstones, watches and pearls using real NAJ CEO Simon Forrester said: “It’s an stock to gain in-depth, technical knowledge. exciting time for both the NAJ and the CMJ. By identifying complementary The NAJ once again invited a select number products and services with a strong of its supplier members, some new to the relationship in place, I’m confident that we Event, to take stands. Isabella Liu, showed can work closely together to offer the best Twilight, inspired by the phases of the moon; service to our membership communities.” John Garland-Taylor’s handmade silver jewellery follows his signature fluid lines The enhanced partnership has already and includes form-fitting classics; Louise taken effect with the NAJ strengthening its Barnfather’s hand-crafted, textural, fluid presence at the CMJ Autumn Event held on silver jewellery, Alexander Davis’ minimalist, 4th-5th August and growing its attendance elegant silver and fine collection, inspired by at the CMJ’s regional meetings scheduled atomic bonds and German designer Brigitte this year. “Our regional meetings have been Adolph’s lace-inspired, feminine pieces in a huge success. The NAJ’s attendance, silver, black rhodanised silver and yellow input and contribution will be very welcome gold, including earrings featuring diamonds Alex Davis going forward,” Dimmick said. and coral drops. 54 NAJ News The Jeweller

Consumer Focus… but how? asks Danielle Chib – vice chair of the Consumer Focus Steering Group:

How do we understand more about what industry, which directly correlates with the When creating an industry analysis, we the customer is looking for, and more recent blog from NAJ chair Harriet Kelsall can become subjective quite quickly. importantly, actually buying? This group’s to get more people buying more jewellery, Craftsmanship and tradition fit comfortably remit is to stimulate demand for our more often. into ‘Strengths’, but for aspects like trust, experience and sustainability it’s not so We convened with more questions than clear-cut. I believe we can’t be so naïve as answers, duly throwing it all up onto the to merely focus on the group’s opinions, or board for a sensible starting point. It was even just the industry’s. We need to focus on abundantly clear that there’s a real desire to consumers and understand their thoughts work together to understand more about the and feelings – we wouldn’t be doing our consumer, both from the group members steering group’s title much honour if we and from those I’ve spoken to outside of didn’t! group conversations.

Right now, we’re building a comprehensive Clearly this isn’t going to be something SWOT (Strengths, Weaknesses, that’s delivered overnight, but I hope it will Opportunities and Threats) analysis, break new ground soon. We’ll need to liaise which we’ll streamline into a format from with the membership and organisations to which we can determine our strategy and help develop information and data, but I’d objectives. To support this, we’ve compiled like to invite you, the reader, to give us your recent industry research and will apply the opinions on what you think our objectives findings, while making our own mark on the should be. Our ideas plus your views should industry. reap great rewards!

The NAJ is led by its National Committee, which Getting a Steer in turn is supported by five steering groups, each focusing on different areas. Two recent group meetings on Things reveal a little more…

Member Kerry Gregory FGA DGA, keeping you in the ‘loupe’ about the PTSI Steering Group...

The World‘s finesT colours Firstly, what is it? It’s the Professional and unifying, inclusive organisation for all in We look forward to hearing more from you, Technical Standards and IRV Steering the jewellery industry, and our focus is on and working together to create a better InternatIonal trade faIr Group – responsible for looking after all ensuring that the strategy and vision works trade for us all. for gemstones, jewellery and gemstone objects members' interests by advising on and for all members, in all sectors of the trade. upholding the high standards for which the NAJ membership is known. "Have your say.” We therefore want to hear from you: what’s important to you, how 03. Oct. - 06. Oct. For an idea of what we discussed, our ethos can we best serve your businesses? Over and a few of the key points we looked the coming months you will be invited to at, here’s a few choice quotes from the have your say about the things that we can meeting... support you with. 2019

"I don't want an easy life!" (Frank Wood, "Stamping out hallmarking infringements.” new new new new new new chair). This quote has been taken entirely One key issue that came up time and time out of context, but typifies the group’s ethos. again was hallmarking; a general lack of We’re not looking for the ‘easy’ solution, understanding and lack of adherence to the we’re looking for the ‘right’ solution in Hallmarking Law by some aspects of the any situation. What is the right way to do trade, this is a key issue for our members. 3d Mining sales coaching interactive experience workshop jewellery Making something that will work in your businesses, We will be looking closely at practical ways while upholding the quality and standards we can support members with education, we all want to achieve? tools and creating a level playing field by ensuring those flouting the rules are INTERGEM.DE "We are the NAJ.” There is no ‘them’, there informed about any contravention, and is no ‘you’, there is ‘us’. The NAJ is the made to play by the same rules we all do.

190083heewellerctinal.indd 1 1019 11:10 August 2019 Profile 57

metal, Birmingham for 2008, sponsor mark WG (Wally Gilbert). Gross item weight 6,051.10 grammes.”

“I was working in an iron foundry in Wisconsin at the time,” remembers Gilbert, “and the experiences of my four-month stay in America inspired the design.” He recalls that the competition had no parameters, leaving the design direction completely open. Further experience at a bronze foundry (where he was inspired by figures) in Philadelphia and print making work in Vermont all played their influencing part in Gilbert’s winning design. “Bringing different techniques and materials together is something that I like and after those months in America I came back to chasing in Britain,” he explains.

An artist and designer who can creatively and technically work across most ADDED WOW FACTOR disciplines, (making anything from jewellery to cast iron roof beams) Gilbert CREATING STANDARDS OF EXCELLENCE trained at West Sussex School of Art and Design and then at Chelsea College of VM and Events Ltd specialises in designing we have built a first class reputation within A dynamic visual theme for a store or event bespoke seasonal window themes, from the jewellery industry. By designing and doesn’t necessarily mean a big budget; design to manufacturing and installation. producing luxury vinyl materials, including often some of our inventive displays are Renaissance Man We work closely with clients to understand for windows and showcases, we can also the result of limited budgets where we can their needs and maximise the potential help you give a wow factor to your event, stretch our imagination in creative terms Wally Art. “My father and grandfather were both of their showrooms and, by creating eye with the latest branded imagery screening, rather than financial to support your needs. decorative applied artists, so I was brought catching displays that reflect your business, lighting and floral decorations to make For further information please contact up to believe that art was a job,” he says. we can help to ultimately increase footfall your event one to talk about! Mindful that Renaissance craftsmen were us on 07590 383445, email us at leading to higher sales potential. adept across multiple disciplines, he was Our services don’t stop there; we have our [email protected] or visit our nonetheless intrigued by silversmithing. Not only do we produce stunning visual own designated Christmas experts to turn website vmandeventsltd.co.uk “The levels of skills needed in silversmithing displays to draw the customer to your your showrooms and events into something Gilbert means that you can do almost anything, but products but we are experts in event magical. Whether it be branded corporate Recent reappraisals of key The silver wine coolers with bronze silver faces a problem in that its function dressing and, having worked with brands trees to magical winter wonderland angel handles were valued in 2014, the is going,” he adds. “How many people use such as Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, entrances and centre pieces we have NAJ regalia items have valuation description reading: “A pair of silver at the table these days?” Fope, Georg Jensen and Chopard, it covered! thrown light on other works Presentation Wine Coolers. Each consisting among the Federation’s of a cylindrical vase with a matt textured His approach to his work is set to inspire band at the top and bottom, enclosing a an exhibition at Goldsmiths’ Centre next assets. And, as one particular hammered/fluted body, with a hammered year – a showcase of work by silversmiths commission demonstrates, textured finish, each enclosing a removable (Brett Payne being one) who have gone we have a good eye for inner sleeve and each vase has two applied on to work in other materials using other patinated cast bronze harpies/fish/angels techniques and disciplines. Gilbert himself contemporary as well as riveted to the outside… Each with a lasered – who recently produced jewellery pieces traditional craftsmanship. hallmark to the base, sterling silver plus inspired by bridge parapets that he had made – has taken a surprising new ack in 2007 the former British direction recently. Jewellers Association (now “I’m fascinated merged with the NAG, by fabric – its B becoming today’s NAJ) ran a process is not competition to design a pair of silver wine coolers, which would be added unlike chasing, but to the Association’s collection of silverware. the effects are so different,” he says. The commission was bestowed on multi-

award-winning artist, jeweller, metalworker, “Interiors interest silversmith, teacher… Wally Gilbert, a me; I’m essentially Freeman of the Worshipful Company of an applied

Goldsmiths, whose name was put forward Drawing by artist. And, I tell by judging panel member and silversmith John Joyce students: ‘never Martyn Pugh. say no to a job!’” 58 Industry News

Memories, from Death to Life, is a skull formed of titanium Not to be missed, renowned and The Wallace Chan Porcelain.

jewellery artist and innovator, The exhibition will also include an intricately designed series of jewellery, including brooches titled Garden of Dreams Wallace Chan, is presenting his and Mind Puzzle, that beyond being beautiful objects also explore deep philosophical questions such as the origins of first solo show in London. the universe. The pieces shown incorporate a wide range of materials including titanium, the Wallace Chan Porcelain and a multitude of gemstones such as rubies, pearls, sapphires, hapeshifter: The Multiverse of Wallace Chan, is opals, amethyst, topaz and lapis lazuli. running from 14th-17th September 2019 at Asia House, London W1 and will feature 20 jewellery Wallace Chan said, “I always feel that I have a responsibility S pieces realised in the jewellery artist’s latest to innovate, whether through the invention of a new idea, groundbreaking innovation – a super-strength porcelain that technique, tool or material. My porcelain allows me to realise is five times harder than steel – and 10 titanium sculptures, many new creations that defy the limits of wearable art, just as titanium did in the past decade. Perhaps, like titanium, demonstrating his mastery of both materials. it will serve to inspire others to explore the possibilities of jewellery creations and sculptural art.” Craft Your Story • Create Your Style Tracing the development of his practice over the past 45 years, the exhibition showcases never before seen works and Chan’s curiosity and thirst for knowledge has led to the will demonstrate the self-taught Chan’s ambition to push creation of numerous innovations combining art, science boundaries through creative innovations. Highlights include and alchemy, including: the Wallace Cut, an illusionary three- a two-metre sculpture, Lotus Children, of a blooming lotus dimensional carving technique invented in 1987; the mastery flower made of titanium resting on a glass plinth. The flower’s of titanium; a patented jade technology; the invention of pistil is citrine, surrounded by four rotating figurines of elaborate gemstone settings without metal claws; and most small children symbolising each season. A second sculpture, recently, the Wallace Chan Porcelain.

SHAPE- Below - Hera Brooch and Ring SHIFTER The Multiverse of Wallace Chan

Left - Mind Puzzle Brooch. Bottom Left - Lotus Children. Below - A New Generation Ring,

9ct Gold • 18ct Gold • Platinum Diamonds • Bespoke Designs • Branded Collections

Lumiere House • Elstree Way Borehamwood • Hertfordshire • WD6 1JH email: [email protected]

Part of the Continental Holdings Group ccollection.com 60 Responsible Sourcing The Jeweller August 2019 Responsible Sourcing 61

Harriet Kelsall Anna Loucah: “At the beginning of my necklace and bracelet designs, but I hope to using recycled metal when possible, but career I had a lot of friends working see a bigger Fairtrade Gold chain selection being relatively new to the industry it felt in fashion and heard from them about available soon. More suppliers are now quite overwhelming and at times futile as I the ground swell of attention placed on offering Fairtrade Gold wire and sheet so it’s wasn’t yet part of any jewellery networks or environmental and humanitarian standards easier to come by, which is great.” communities. within their notoriously shocking industry. It led me to look at my own supply chains “When I heard of the Fairtrade certification and ask questions of my own.” Arabel: “Very difficult. Fairtrade hadn’t set scheme I signed up immediately – it has up Fairtrade Gold yet, so I started importing given many small business jewellers like gold from Oro Verde, a small cooperative of myself a platform for conversation and How difficult was it to source small-scale miners in Colombia, directly into awareness within the industry. Supply is Anna Loucah Fairtrade Gold initially? the UK. I imported enough metal to organise still not without its problems – you have to my own casting, and use in my designs. It be prepared to be a lot more ahead of the Harriet: “We started working with ‘fairly was quite a journey!” game when planning your pieces. You can’t traded’ gold before the mines were just walk into any bullion dealer and buy Fairtrade certified – we were excited about Anna: “Before Fairtrade I felt quite isolated traceable metal in any form, colour or carat what the Fairtrade Foundation and the in my wish to use more responsibly as with conventional metal – some things Alliance for Responsible Mining were sourced materials; there wasn’t really a you need to order a couple of weeks in The Rock Hound doing. [Once FT Gold was established] we conversation around it at the time. I was advance! had a couple of customers wanting to be among the first to have certified Fairtrade gold rings and were prepared to wait for the metal to be available. They had to wait a while!” Arabel Lebrusan Since Fairtrade Gold launched in the UK in Natalie: “I didn't find it very difficult to source grain – I was aware of the UK 2011 those licensed to buy and work with it suppliers offering casting in Fairtrade Gold. However, sourcing chain, sheet and have multiplied. So how’s the supply today findings was a challenge and still is to an extent. I use one of the only Fairtrade Gold and how great is demand? trace chains available in the UK in my Fairtrade Gold The Story So Far

Why did you want to use health of their children at serious risk. Once environment and landscape. It coincided “It’s frustrating when you have a deadline I heard about the life-changing impact with the Fairtrade Foundation launching but in many ways it’s helped me improve responsibly sourced gold? Fairtrade had for her and the community Fairtrade gold and I was one of the first planning and preparation… you know that around her, I knew I had to support this with jewellers to sign up for registration.” that's the deal. Plus, it’s great to ‘experience’ my jewellery.” Susi Smither, The Rock Hound: “I first the metal’s journey – it’s precious and heard of the Fairtrade Foundation in a Rachel Sweeney, Cox & Power: “When I precious takes time, as does change… “We always seek more school assembly over 20 years ago and have Harriet Kelsall: trained in the 1980s the idea that jewellery something that is certainly growing in responsible options – it’s part of our value sought out products with this certification could be a force for good was a dream momentum!” set. We work with newly re-cycled metal, ever since – it was a natural alliance for beyond the horizon. But the concept of re-use customers’ own gold and offer fair trade was planted in my mind through me. Once you hear about the dangerous Fairtrade gold – whatever customers feel is exposure to Traidcraft (later co-founders conditions miners face daily it’s a no- Has it become more plentiful important. The Fairtrade scheme guarantees of Fairtrade). An IJL presentation in 2011 brainer; as goldsmiths we have a duty of a minimum price for miners’ gold, so followed by a chance conversation at and is there a premium? care. I launched our first fully Fairtrade gold even if the global price drops below that Goldsmiths’ Hall with Peter Crump of Vipa collection in 2015: GoldRush. level, their income is assured. Fairtrade Designs reignited the spark.” Harriet: “It’s much easier now! The mines also pays a premium on top of the price, are more established and their output more Natalie Perry: “In 2015 I heard Ugandan which goes directly to the miners and their Arabel Lebrusan: “I didn’t want my predictable, and the gold is available in miner, Josephine Aguti, speak about how communities.” industry to be tainted by all the blood many more forms and in different alloys. she and Fairtrade were working together to diamond/mercury metal stories featuring Because we don’t mark up the Fairtrade improve the working conditions in her mine Erica Sharpe: “It was my exploration of the in the press back in 2000. So I challenged premium, we often find that the price – proper health and safety equipment and mining and production of another metal myself to create jewellery with a positive difference is less than customers expect. education, also a refining machine which that I use – Cornish tin – that made me and ethical story, and to show the jewellery Since it depends on the forms of metal made their jobs much easier. Josephine also research the production and supply chain world that we could use traceable gold from available to create pieces for individual told us about some of the harsh chemicals of the gold that I used. I went underground a responsible source, instead of not being customers, the cost difference is often in the Erica Sharpe which were used in mining – they didn’t in the deserted tin mines, and researched able to claim where that gold came from and manufacturing techniques we need to use realise they were putting the lives and the impact of the mining on the community, who took part in its mining.” rather than in the metal itself.” 62 Responsible Sourcing The Jeweller

MONTHS We make buying and Fairtrade Gold The Story So Far selling easy.

fact, even if the customers don’t mention it to us, it’s a topic that we’ll touch on with FREE them to ensure that they know that Fairtrade CARD TERMINAL Gold even exists and could be a possibility in their piece of jewellery. We find that 3RENTAL we are ‘converting’ a lot of customers to Fairtrade.

Susi: “Word is spreading about Fairtrade Gold and more jewellers are getting on board; so more consumers have awareness of the need for responsible sourcing. Social media is a powerful tool and consumers do Natalie Perry their research before they invest in jewellery. Often people who find us have already made the choice to use an ethical jeweller, Exclusive NAJ Member Discounts or if they’re simply lured by our gorgeous jewellery, they’re pleasantly surprised Rachel: “We are fortunate in creating hand- the next two years as currently the Fairtrade to learn about our responsible sourcing made, small scale collections and individual Foundation subsides the license fee. The practises and feel it’s a bonus.” £50 Towards NAJ Membership pieces so our demands for material are not system seems extremely complicated great and we can design with the availability and admin-heavy to me; I see this as a Rachel: “We’ve witnessed a slowly growing of materials in mind. The price is higher disadvantage to a working jeweller like me. awareness of the ethics of jewellery over No Minimum Monthly Charge than uncertified gold, with systems in place the past five years or so although we find to ensure a fair price for the miners plus a A jeweller doesn’t need a FLO ID to work in that interest – and demand – grows when premium (on sales for Fairtrade Gold and Fairtrade gold. There’s a scheme for those we begin to explain the provenance of our on purchases for Fairmined Gold) that producing small numbers of pieces yearly. jewellery and precious materials.” Low Transaction Rates goes back to the mining communities. Also But if you want your own hallmark, plus the licence fees to the certifying bodies.” Fairtrade mark, you need a FLO ID. I didn’t Anna: “I think that there’s a consumer-held want to produce one-off pieces in Fairtrade belief that if something is a ‘luxury’ product FREE Switching Service Susi: “Lots of progress now ensures Gold and either not be able to have the then it’s safe because the bad stuff only a consistent supply of Fairtrade Gold Fairtrade mark, or have the Fairtrade mark happens at the ‘mass produced’ end of the although there are still creases to iron but with a supplier’s mark rather than my market. It would be difficult to have that 24/7 Technical Support out. We started using Vipa for castings in own. This makes it costly and I see it as a conversation without killing the buzz and 2018, giving us a reliable source of yellow, drawback.” so I like to think of my service as providing white and red – we created our second fully a solution before any one knew there was a Fairtrade Gold collection: RockStars. There problem! is a ‘premium’ attached to Fairtrade Gold Has demand for it grown? bullion – 10 to 20 per cent depending on “The vast majority of customers that I’ve what form it’s in and the distributor. There’s Arabel: “Yes, definitely, and a lot of that is talked with about Fairtrade have been room for debate on pricing – this ‘premium’ down to increase in awareness. Consumers delighted to learn that such a thing exists should be thought of as a separate value, are asking more and more where everything and that their purchase will have some which sits outside the gold price, meaning is coming from, the mileage on it and the additional benefit beyond their original when stockists add on their usual markup resources used to produce it. So, it’s normal intention.” the premium isn’t amplified making ethical that they ask similar questions of their jewellery seem overtly expensive. This is not jewellery. As an industry we should be to be confused with the Fairtrade Premium ready to answer those question, instead of – an additional amount paid directly to the “I don’t know”. It upsets me to see the older mining communities of US$2,000 for every generation not bothering to understand kilogram of gold, giving the communities what the real issues are, or wanting to autonomy to invest how they want.” change the way things are done in the industry. Consumers will have the last word Erica: “It’s more plentiful and more and if we don’t change the industry as a suppliers are offering it. I can now have whole we’ll lose a big chunk of the market. components cast in it from several They will just dismiss jewellery all together, companies, and buy the bullion in different and we’ll all lose.” qualities, forms and colours. There’s a In partnership with premium: an extra cost per gram bought, Harriet: “Customers are more likely than Quote NAJ & Call FREE plus I pay Fairtrade on the grams that I ever to ask about the story behind the sell – done quarterly. I also have the annual materials we use in their jewellery. It often cost of registration and FLO certification. starts with a conversation about diamonds The overall extra amount is on average £15 – they’ve heard of conflict diamonds – then Cox & Power 0800 881 8104 per item, including licence fee and extra leads into a conversation about ethics payment on the gold. This will increase over generally and what’s important to them. In valitor.com 64 At the Bench The Jeweller August 2019 At the Bench 65

How and when did you get into wax mediocrity. Some of my students were ever appeared (and been given plenty to test carving? studying CAD but they also had to learn drive) but I pretty much stick to the basic how to make things manually in order to kit. We're doing a series of blog posts on our Russell: “It was by chance. I was looking for understand how to use CAD design. We all website about the essential tools.” something to do after leaving school, found agree that traditional wax carving skills and All You a City & Guilds evening class and ended up CAD could work hand-in-hand.” Trade-wise, who are your key doing a degree, where I was introduced to customers and for what types of wax. Up to that point I’d always wondered Russell: “I teach at Morley College and am items? how the figurative work by jewellers like about to trial a short beginner's course at Need Mark Lloyd's school in Hartlepool. There Lalique was produced; suddenly it was all Designers and jewellery brands, new and are other courses around, but it’s important very clear.” established; we can't say more than that. to find a really experienced tutor; there’s Mostly it’s figurative work – it's what we to Know certainly no-one like us in the South. Wax Danila: "As a child I was fascinated with specialise in and are best known for. We small, pretty objects, and the jewellery that carving is becoming increasingly popular; develop one-off pieces, commissions and my grandmother and mother wore. I made my courses are always fully booked with a entire collections. We’re still mostly found About… my first piece of ‘jewellery’ from discarded waiting list – it’s definitely a growing art. by word of mouth, but the website and social transistors when I was eight, then used media bring customers too. shells, beads and string. When I came to the “Many people had the idea that CAD UK in 1990 I enrolled in an adult education threatened wax carving, but this hasn’t When creating pieces for your own class in jewellery making, then NVQ and turned out to be the case. Twenty-five years finally a Jewellery Design degree at CSM. ago CAD/CNC milling machines appeared collection, what inspires you? I wanted to explore lots of different skills. and because they were milling wax, people Anything and everything. Nature, art, Eventually I met Russell at Jess James thought that there’d be rivalry. However, it's illustration, design history, comics, tattoos, while on work placement, and he said he become more of an alternative to traditional literature, history, mythology… We’re specialised in wax carving. That opened a mounting. Perhaps that's the way the particularly fond of applied arts, especially big door for me – I really love form and after software has been developed? There are a Victoriana, Art Nouveau, Baroque and Rococo. receiving some guidance I went for it.” few people using CAD for the type of work Wax we do, but not many. There's always some What qualifications and qualities who’ll prefer something sculpted by hand; are required? How long does it take there's room for both disciplines. We're busier than ever – we've even worked with to become proficient/skilled/a CAD people, sculpting figurative work onto master? mounts they've built.”

Carving Russell: “No special qualifications are What do you need to set yourself up required; a basic knowledge of jewellery- making is useful. However you need good in business as a wax carver? eye-hand coordination and understanding Russell: “You need a space to work and Describe wax carving… in the of 3D forms. Initially it takes some time to Master wax carvers teach your brain to go from 2D to 3D, but good light. Tool-wise you can set up context of jewellery-making. for under £100: wax saw blades for your Russell Lownsbrough FIPG everybody can get there in the end. Find a good, experienced teacher and practice a piercing saw, a double-ended wax file, a ring (Institute of Professional Wax carving is a very old production lot. How fast you progress depends on your sizer, a set of wax carving tools, some wax method for jewellers and silversmiths – level of dedication, concentration and desire and you're away... Over time you find which Goldsmiths chairman) and around 6,000 years old. It’s like sculpture to progress. In 30 hours of tuition I can tools you prefer and develop your own too. for jewellery. The wax itself comes in I've bought pretty much every tool that's Danila Tarcinale FIPG, of make you proficient, if you apply yourself. several colours, which denote the working Some people attain a basic level and are Hatton Garden-based joint properties – for instance blue is a good happy to stay there if their work doesn't general wax, green is good for detail. It can require a greater skill level. That’s fine – you venture waxcarving.co.uk, be filed, drilled and lathed, but is mostly can always refer to specialists like us if you carved. The actual technique is more like need to create something more complicated. have the answers. scraping than carving. It's useful for those Becoming a master requires 10,000 forms that are difficult to produce by any hours. You'll need passion, dedication, other means, and lends itself particularly concentration and patience… the rest will How to Commission a Wax Carving well to figurative work. follow. Repetition is the key to mastery. Every job you do you're giving yourself an Usually, a piece of jewellery is carved in wax, upgrade.” 1 What is the object? For items like earrings, brooches, pendants, the fittings and the cast via the lost wax casting method, then way they attach are varied and significant, as are weight allowances. the casting cleaned up and fittings added. If it’s a one-off piece it may undergo further Where can you learn wax carving? 2 Provide accurate drawings or rough sketches and visual references. The more processes, if it's for production, it will then Is it a dying art or a growing one? provided the less we have to guess at or interpret. This will also save you money as have a mould made. And where does CAD fit in? reworking takes time. We can accurately draw your design for you – at a charge.

Moulds are traditionally made from Danila: “I’ve been teaching wax carving 3 Provide dimensions (length/width/height) vulcanised rubber. Several layers of (one-to-one or very small classes) for the unvulcanised rubber are placed around a last six years, day time and evening classes, 4 Give sizes of any stones to be set. metal master pattern inside a frame. The at BAJ and most of the students, all of frame and rubber are placed in a press and different age groups and skill levels show a 5 What’s your time-scale? Our time is booked in advance – first-come-first-served. compressed under heat. The resulting block great enthusiasm in learning to carve and Small jobs may be fitted into our schedule, but don’t depend on this. Think at least is cut open and the master removed. Wax some of them produce very good work with four weeks ahead of your deadline. If the job requires specialist work, setting, is injected into the mould and, when cool, the tips they learn from me in those few engraving, plating etc. allow more time. Ask for advice. removed. Multiple versions of the same item hours. It’s very important to be taught by can then be produced. a skilled teacher or you'll only perpetuate 6 Is the item a one-off or for production? August 2019 Business Advice 67

hat’s your first thought when advertisements – lack the depth and kudos of editorial is hitting a client’s target customer since 1890 you see the word PR? Posh, a placement that’s been ‘earned’. – for luxury brands far more important than W young blonde women drinking reach alone. prosecco with journalists perhaps. Or Your target audience will view earned media political spin masters tripping out fake news with more credibility than an ad because it’s on behalf of powerful masters? not blatantly selling them something. PR is a The changing face of PR very powerful influencing tool because it can A recent poll by PR Week revealed that help shape public opinion on your brand and How businesses reach end consumers 92 per cent of people questioned had no business. PR can be far more seductive and is changing fast. Fashion and luxury real idea what PR is (something to do with persuasive than an ad, and is more affordable magazines were once the primary lying?). PR is sadly mistrusted and widely and cost-effective. medium for jewellery and watch brands TOURMALINE misunderstood. But it remains a critical tool to communicate stories and products. Retailers have confirmed M U LT I C O L O U R for any business and is needed now more For example, we rate the coverage we achieve Television advertising was all-powerful and since installing Parify's than ever within the jewellery industry. for clients in Advertising Value Equivalents a huge investment. Both of these traditional Cerebra & Diamond Sparkle (AVEs) – what that piece of coverage would mass mediums are now losing audiences to downlights, sales of fine jewellery have cost if paid for. Simply based on AVE their online equivalents. have increased substantially. What IS PR anyway? values, our clients typically receive coverage worth more than four times the amount Twenty, even 10, years ago, target customers Now's the time to take action. Put simply, PR is being able to broadcast they’ve paid for our PR services monthly. would check magazines for shopping and Call for a free demonstration. your story to the wider world, and styling inspirations. Today it’s Instagram specifically to target potential new This is a very rudimentary way of showing feeds and Stories). Ten years ago, most customers. While advertising can reach return on investment. We also categorise people watched live, terrestrial TV t 01509 323 111 target customers, any paid placements – coverage according to reach (how many will programmes. Today, they’re more likely to consume Netflix, Amazon, YouTube; from billboards to programmatic pop-ups or see or read the coverage) and also that the e [email protected] or watch traditional TV on catch up, fast w www.parify.co.uk Ruppenthal uK ltd forwarding all the ads. London oFFice: +44 (0) 208 777 4443, [email protected] So today’s earned media, secured by PR, BiRMinGHaM & MidLands: is no longer confined to magazine and +44 (0) 7534 976906, [email protected] newspaper articles (which still have their Part of the Parify Group | Made in Britain place), but online features, YouTube 1 - 3 September 2019 broadcasts or podcasts, social media Olympia lOndOn influencer posts and celebrity placements. Visit us on stand F31 PR now faces the challenge of a world where The Changing consumers face a constant clamour of news and features on their screens. Under this bombardment of information, we’re all UNDERSTANDING WATCHES becoming more attention-deficit. Simply writing and sending out a press release, in IN A RETAIL ENVIRONMENT FaceFace of PR…PR… the old style of PR, doesn’t cut it anymore. A creative, consistent and authentic PR The new horological course for jewellers and communications strategy should be at the heart of every responsible business – … and why the jewellery industry needs it more than ever, The British Horological Institute is the leading UK training body for clock and especially in the jewellery industry, built on consumer trust and respect. watch making and servicing. Our new two-day course, Understanding Watches according to Sarah Carpin of jewellery specialist agency in a Retail Environment, has been specifically devised for jewellers and those Facets, in this first in a series on marketing. in the retail environment who want to learn about maintaining different types Why jewellery needs PR of watches. You’ll gain marketable skills including: Using test equipment • changing leather straps • removing and adding It’s this trust and respect that’s under bracelet links • replacing clasps and spring bars • opening different types pressure, along with changing consumer of watch cases • understanding tools and methods for watch maintenance behaviour and lack of consumer confidence. Jewellers face stiff competition, not just • removing and replacing batteries from within our industry but from the wider Tutored by an accredited and experienced watch expert, you’ll take on a wealth luxury world, particularly when targeting younger consumers, interested in investing of theoretical and practical knowledge. in experiences over things. How do we tell You will also have the chance to view the unique collection of the Museum the customers of the future that wearing of Timekeeping located here at Upton Hall. jewellery is as relevant today as it’s been for millennia and investing in, or gifting, Training Clock Dates: Tuesday 22 to Wednesday 23 October 2019 | Cost £250 jewellery is the antithesis to throwaway and Watchmakers Location: Upton Hall, Upton, Newark, Nottinghamshire, NG23 5TE fast fashion? That it’s a highly emotive, Since 1858 On-site accommodation is available at a small additional charge. meaningful purchase that can be treasured for a lifetime and handed down to the next generation? bhi.co.uk To book your place contact Zanna Through effective, impactful, well-crafted PR. That’s how. 01636 817603 • [email protected]

www.facetspr.com 68 Book Reviews The Jeweller August 2019 Opinion 69

Colour and Texture in Jewellery Then there are the various methods of 100 original pieces of high jewellery and achieving embossed, etched, engraved and precious objects is also a sumptuous By Nina Gilbey and Bekkie Ora Cheeseman heat-created textures. Colour photos show celebration of colour. Red; blue and green; (Crowood Press £27.50) clearly the results, with clear step-by-step white; green and black; green and red and the illustrated guides and exercises for the softer tonal shades are given the utmost This collaboration between two professional different techniques. Gemstones are an exposure via an exploration of the jewellery, the stones, the art world, design and colour Last Word... designer makers and teachers of jewellery obvious way to add colour and the book is self-explanatory – an exploration of includes an overview of stones and the inspiration, the contrast of tradition and goes to Nyasha Pitt. how colour and texture can be harnessed various setting methods. The bulk of the modernity and the history of Cartier itself. to bring ideas to life and add beauty. chapter looks at adding colour through Generously-sized, exquisite images that Tapping into the myriad techniques and many ways of combining metals, chemical reveal every last detail leap from the pages. methods, the authors share their wisdom colouring, enamelling and mixed media. and experience in an extremely accessible More beautiful effects that you could way, whether you’re a practicing jeweller, a possibly have imagined! Carnet By Michelle Ong of colour. She’s the our latest consumers, Millennials then student or a member of a retail sales team reason I know that I can Gen Z, are cognisant of these contexts and who’d love some in-depth knowledge. By Vivienne Becker, foreword by JAR do anything. She’s my constructs, and expect us all to do better. Coloratura – High Jewelry and (Thames & Hudson, £65) biggest inspiration and Change of the magnitude required won’t my loudest cheerleader. take place overnight, but I believe the An introduction to workshop and Precious Objects by Cartier equipment points out that with a few Founded by Michelle Ong over 20 years first step is being open to having those essentials it’s possible to create a great ago, the Hong-Kong-based jewellery house What led you to uncomfortable conversations. By Francois Chaille deal. But of course cheap tools won’t last Carnet has bedecked countless celebrities communications? (Flammarion £80) and the more tools… the more is achievable. with its multi-hued jewels. The one-off Was there an The process and development of design is What motivated you to join the creations – contemporary works of art – alternative career explained, along with annealing, soldering, Paying homage to Cartier’s most recent draw on the designer’s love of European Women’s Jewellery Network? pickling, riveting, finishing, filing, polishing… collection, this luxurious tome, with its path? culture and craftsmanship, as well as Aside from wanting to work with Victoria Chinese motifs and natural forms – from I’m a writer at heart. McKay and Kathryn Bishop, who I hold in sea shells and palm trees to peonies and I wanted to work in high regard, I believe in the mission. I want pomegranates. advertising from an early to do my part in making this world a better age; I was fascinated by place for everyone and ensure that I’m on This gorgeously lavish book illustrates her TV adverts – the clever the right side of history and in the right jewellery’s embodiment of the five elements word play, the bright corner of the debate. Equality is everything – wood, fire, earth, metal and water – as colours, the jingles... My and I believe the WJN is an excellent Colour well as its feminine sensuality and intense first comms role was conduit for change – driven by women who glamour. Spectacular, statement-making for Coventry Building want to be part of a global movement that pieces – earrings in particular – regularly Society, writing copy challenges the industry to act on the issues feature her favourite antique rose-cut for financial service of diversity and inclusion. diamonds as well as flat slices of dendritic products. I reckon that Celebrated diamonds and idiosyncratic colour if you can make savings When were you happiest? compositions. Ong, who opened her own sound sexy, you’re workshop in 2003 and boutique in 2007, probably really good at I don’t believe in regrets. I’ve had my fair anticipated the trend for women buying for copywriting. share of challenges and I’m fortunate that I am very resilient in that respect. I have great themselves. If not marketing, I’d have in Print bounce-back-ability. I’m at my happiest now definitely been a singer – because I know myself more today than I ith extensive PR, digital words and expression. I’ve always sung – in did yesterday. I practice gratitude daily; my marketing and executive choirs, in bands and solo. I can’t imagine a lot is far more positive than the generation communications experience; day without singing… before me and I’m thankful for everything Nyasha, communications W I have. And I love to laugh. I’ll always seek director of the Women’s What do you see as the main to be positive and surround myself with Jewellery Network, has worked in-agency challenges currently facing the NAJ? positivity. and in-house supporting B2B, B2C and

public-sector brands. She also regularly The NAJ reflects the trade in general, so provides editorial content to industry titles. it faces similar challenges; from rapidly Any trophies or awards? changing consumer demands driven by She’s fiercely passionate about diversity I’ve won solo and team awards in the societal change, to financial pressures, with and inclusion, regularly giving talks and Chartered Institute of Public Relations margins still squeezed across the board. It providing consultancy on the subject. She and Drum Awards. I’m a Networker of the also has the added challenge that it seeks to founded iDNetwork, a business networking Year nominee in the Midlands Business, represent all aspects of the trade, which isn’t platform for Black professionals in the Community & Charity Awards 2019. This always going to be easy. Midlands and is a seasoned panellist and year I was one of PriceWaterhouseCoopers’ energetic, engaging speaker. She’s also an 50 Inspirational People. With my singing, I accredited neuro-linguistic programming If you could have a heart-to-heart won Coventry’s Got Talent, and won £10,000 practitioner. with anyone in the trade, who on a Sky One singing competition called would it be? What would you ‘Don’t Forget The Lyrics’ a few years ago! Who has been the biggest influence discuss? on your life? What are you reading at the moment? There are some challenging conversations Without question, my mother. The older I that I’d love to have around diversity and I’m devouring new and old books at a rate of get, the more I appreciate her. In the last inclusion, with many across the trade. It’s knots. New is Natives by Akala – a brilliant, five years, she’s beaten breast cancer twice, fair to say that the jewellery sector has a well-researched historical book about the achieved a degree, completed her masters way to go in so many aspects. Diversity British Empire, from a Black perspective. My and run a half marathon. All of this in her is much more than gender, and inclusion ‘re-read’ is The Chimp Paradox – fantastic 60s and as a proud, independent woman is extremely challenging to achieve. Yet, on leadership/personal development. For more info visit nivoda.net

Online diamond marketplace has saved NAJ member Taylor & Hart more than £80k per year.

New market entrant, Nivoda, is catching the eye of forward- shipping from multiple suppliers around the globe is complicated and David MacDonald, Taylor and Hart’s buyer added: “We set up the and colour of inclusions. It’s our mission to make virtual buying better thinking Jewellers, retailers & suppliers, as it is set to change the takes a lot of organisation. That’s when I came up with the idea for API ordering with Nivoda so purchases are placed with suppliers as than buying physically and guarantee that buying through Nivoda is way companies source diamonds. Nivoda offers both an easier Nivoda; I wanted to automate this process with technology so that no and when our customers buy on the site. I’ve been able to reduce our always cheaper than buying directly from suppliers.” and cheaper way to buy diamonds that is very quickly becoming one has to think about it. When a sale is made, the stock just arrives.” payment and shipment costs by roughly 60%. Most importantly, I feel the new norm. In addition to the clear cost savings Nivoda provides confident with the team behind Nivoda; they are very responsive and Perhaps most noteworthy for our members is the fact that Taylor the industry, the significant work reduction has been particularly We spoke with Taylor and Hart CEO, Nikolay Piriankov who has just quickly deal with any requests.” and Hart - and other businesses that sign up to Nivoda - receive appealing to NAJ member Taylor and Hart, an online jeweller raised £3.6m in venture capital and asked why they chose Nivoda to consolidated parcels and invoices from one single trusted specialising in customisation. support their growth. Taylor and Hart has benefited from a more streamlined service in counterparty. several ways. All ordering is done automatically and zero time is spent We met with Nivoda CEO David Sutton and clients Nikolay Piriankov Nikolay: “David, the CEO at Nivoda, shared with me this vision to on confirming orders and arranging shipments. Nivoda offers full and David MacDonald from online jeweller Taylor and Hart (NAJ make diamond buying easy, and it became a process we stopped management system integration which allows for instant access to the Member) to find out more. worrying about in our company. With Nivoda’s team being based in latest order status, invoices, prices and shipment tracking. “It really is a gift for the Mumbai, London and Hong Kong, we decided to give the company a We asked David Sutton, CEO at Nivoda, how he came up with the trial and have been using them for all diamond purchases ever since. David Sutton, CEO of Nivoda said: “As of today we have circa idea. He said: “Many companies now sell stock that they don’t own I’d say it’s saved us roughly £80,000 in the last 12 months and has 750,000 stones listed on the site. We quality control on the ground in jewellery business,” and often this stock is in a different country to their customer. They allowed our buying team time to focus on getting the right deals with Mumbai and Hong Kong through simple “no bgm” and “eye-clean” want to offer their customers the best priced goods in the world, but the right suppliers.” checks, or further inspection including no open inclusions, position said Macdonald.