The Froggatt Area
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THE FROGGATT AREA THE FROGGATT 1 Grit Staffs Edges Southern Curbar Froggatt Eastern Quarries Valley Burbage Stanage Edges Northern Chew Valley Kinder 2 Bleaklow 3 4 S11 7TY Fox House Inn A6187 Grit Staffs A625 Quarries Area Xxxxxxxx A6187 Longshaw (NT parking p&d) to Xxxxxxx Stanedge Pole B6001 to Xxxxxx B6521 Edges Southern S32 2JA A621 Xxxx Grindleford Station Rd and cafe N XXXX Peacock Inn XXX A625 B6054 XXXX Grouse Inn Curbar XXXXX Froggatt River Xxxxxxx NT car park (p&d) S32 3ZJ M1 Grindleford B6054 XXXXxxx roadside parking XXXXxxx White Gate A621 B6051 XXXXxxx kissing gate Eastern Quarries B6001 0 1km Chequers Inn Froggatt Edge AXXXX AXXXX Valley Stoney Middleton Burbage XXJ XXX XXXJ XXX Froggatt AXXX AXXX Curbar Edge AXX AXX XXX XXX XXXX XXX Moon Inn AX AX Curbar Curbar Gap parking BXXX Calver (p&d) Stanage S32 3YR Bridge Inn main road base Bridge Inn to XXX to XXX B6001 Edges A623 Northern Gardom’s Edge A621 Baslow Chew Birchen Edge Valley minor road base DE45 1PQ Robin Hood Inn (p&d) B6050 Chatsworth Edge A619 Kinder A619 Bleaklow B6012 5 6 FROGGATT EDGE 20 mins Grit OS Grid Ref: SK 249 763 Staffs Altitude: 280m Top-quality gritstone climbing, perhaps only Approach: There are two main approaches, Edges eclipsed by the mighty Stanage. With a rich both from the A625 The most popular ap- Southern diversity of climbing styles and grades, the nu- proach is along the path, which starts from merous classic lines offer an experience among the White Gate (OS Ref. SK 254 776) about the best to be found on gritstone. 500m south of The Grouse Inn on a long sweeping bend in the road. Parking is avail- The fine grit is of immaculate quality, with vir- able at the National Trust Pay & Display car Curbar tually every climb taking perfectly solid rock, park just below the Inn. Parking is also possi- Froggatt giving home to some of the country’s most ble alongside the road just north of the gate. sought after ticks. These range from protected Moderates to poorly protected E9s. With most From the White Gate, the track leads for of the routes clocking in at reasonable grades. 750m to a kissing gate; the crag starts 500m Arguably Froggatt’s greatest showpiece is the south of this gate, 150m after a left turn in Great Slab, containing perhaps the high- Eastern the path, with an easy descent past Stra- Quarries est concentration of top-quality slab climbs piombo Buttress. An easier descent can be anywhere on grit. Whilst these are mainly made at the southern end of the edge down sparsely protected, there are plenty of better the broad gap between the Froggatt and protected slab, wall and crack climbs on offer Curbar Edges. at all grades. Valley An alternative approach is via a footpath Burbage This southwest-facing magnificent edge stands starting just below the Chequers Inn. Up to proud above the Derwent Valley. It is a virtu- 6 cars can be parked in the small layby in the ally continuous face of clean and quick-drying bend 75m south of the inn. There is also an rock. Due to its sunny aspect, and excellent area immediately south of the Chequers Inn spread of routes, the crag is very popular where up to 6 cars can be parked. Important throughout the year. Though it can be very hot – please do not park in the pub car park, un- on summer afternoons and evenings. less you pop in to buy a drink. Although this Stanage is a slightly quicker approach, it is steeper and lacks the superb views of the top path. A good warm up on cold days, the path emerges beneath the Downhill Racer area of the crag. Edges Northern N Chew Pinnacle Boulders Valley 0 50m Chequers Buttress Chequers Buttress StrapadictomyStrapadictomy GreatGreat Slab Slab CaveSunset Are Slaba Tody’sTody’s Wa Wall ll to Chequers Inn Kinder Bleaklow The Pinnacle 7 | Froggatt Edge 8 STRAPADICTOMY BUTTRESS The crag starts proper with a bunch of confi- Grit dent, rounded classics. Scrambling descemts Staffs are possible to the left and right.. 1 Strapiombante 8m E1 5b «« A chunky, easily protected climb. Follow the zigzag crack on good holds. Make a tricky exit leftwards, or finish direct. Highy satisfying. Edges Dave Brearly, Paul Nunn, 1962 Southern 10 2 Strapadictomy 9m E5 6a ««« 7 6 11 One of the most unforgettable routes on grit. 8 Boulder up the cheeky arête to the break. Cru- 9 cify your way out to the flake on the arête and Benign Lives pull desperately up into a layback position. Curbar Froggatt Now gun for the top. 7 Left Flake Crack 8m S 4a « John Allen, Steve Bancroft, 1976 The corner crack to the right is a fine test in 3 Strapiombo 9m E1 5b «« jamming skills but is sadly becoming polished. The classic roof crack is the scene of many a mêlée. Traverse stylishly outwards until the 8 Right Flake Crack 8m HS 4b The crack widens awkwardly towards the top. easier finishing groove is gained, with relief. Eastern Wilf White, Slim Sorrell, 1949 Quarries Don Whillans, Joe Brown, 1956 9 Parallel Piped 8m E3 5c « 4 English Overhang 9m VS 4c « The left arête of the slab has a couple of quick, The friable flake to the right is gingerly used to smeary moves. Easier for the tall. gain the flared crack, which is followed direct. Graham Hoey (solo), 1986 Dave Gregory, Charles Darley, 1978 10 Benign Lives 7m E6 6c «« Valley 5 Scarper’s Triangle 9m E1 5b « Burbage A good tick for people who can think on their Climb a steep groove in the middle of the feet. Smear up the middle of the slab direct outside face, then press on boldly, direct up a (harder) or using a flake on the right (logical). crack. Johnny Dawes, 1984 John Fearon, Dave Gregory, 1957 11 Mild 9m E4 6b « 6 Oss Nob 9m E4 6a « From the start of Benign Lives, tiptoe along the The bold arête, climbed on its right-hand side. Stanage slab then smear more easily up the arête. Colin Banton (solo), 1978 Julian Lines, 1992 Edges Northern 7 3 6 Chew Valley 4 5 1 2 Kinder Bleaklow Strapacictomy 9 | Froggatt Edge Froggatt Edge | 10 17 Turret Crack 10m S 4a « CAVE AREA The crack just right puts up a stern fight at its Sixty metres right, past a small square but- beginning and end. Grit tress, is the chunky Cave area, This features Don Chapman, Nat Allen, 1948 Staffs the slabby, bold technicalities of Sunset Slab and steeper, quarries challenges around the North Gully Descent: Immediately right of cave itself. Turret Crack the gully provides a polished way down, with just a slightly awkward move to start the descent. 12 Science Friction 12m E6 6a « 23 The left arête of the slab will appeal to lovers of 18 « Edges Slab and Crack 8m HD Southern long ground falls. The ramp in the corner to the right provides a Mark Miller, Bill McKee, 1980 worthwhile though polished outing. 26 Nat Allen, Don Chapman, 1948 13 North Climb 12m S 4a «« 22 24 It’s over 100 years since Puttrell first scaled this 19 Soul Doubt 11m E8 6c «« classic route. Go on, feel the history contained The incredibly bold sidewall, direct, passing 21 25 within this awkward crack. Curbar the base of the ramp. Froggatt James W Puttrell, Henry Bishop, C Douglas Yeomans, 1906 2000 Froggatt Cave 14 Sunset Slab 14m HVS 4b ««« 20 Beau Geste 11m E7 6c ««« 23 6 Cave Crack Indirect 12m HVS 5a « down and rightwards to reach slanting finger Deservedly one of Froggatt’s most famous Jonny Woodward’s era-defining ascent of the Climb Hawk’s Nest Crack to the chockstone, slots in the centre of the wall. Long moves on routes. The first and the easiest in a long line of big left arête of the buttress really set the stage then traverse delicately right to finish upCave good slopey edges, direct up the wall, remain. bold slabs along the crag. Follow the curv- for hard gritstone climbing. Fiddle up the Phil Burke, Paul Nunn, John Sheard, 1980 . An enjoyable little combo. Crack Eastern ing crack until it peters out. A smeary traverse Quarries groove in the arête (RPs) to the break. Cams Dave Fooks, Alan Haigh, 2005 leftwards leads to the base of a blind flake, out right. Move left and make a desperate 29 6 Greedy Pig 13m E5 6b «« up which faith and friction will be your only stretch for the tiny crack above. Slap up the 24 Cave Crack 11m E2 5c ««« A right-hand start to Brightside. Battle up the friends. pumpy arête above. Summon all your reserves! This strenuous steep thin crack before scurrying into Bright- Joe Brown, Tony Hyde, Wilf White, 1948 Jonny Woodward, 1982 route is a thuggish way up the archetypal side at the earliest opportunity. gritstone roof-crack leaving the left side of the Paul Mitchell, 1981 15 Sundowner 12m E2 5a « 21 Holly Groove 11m VS 4c « cave. Easy if you can do it, desperate if you 30 Valley A cracking bold finish toSunset Slab on smears The twin-cracked corner is a fine climb. Avalanche 11m E2 6a « Burbage and poor pockets. HVS with side-runners to Slim Sorrell, Nat Allen, 1948 can’t; either way, a massive cam is useful. The square-cut groove is tough for 6a. Get- Joe Brown, Slim Sorrell, 1950 the right.