1 2 THE FROGGATT AREA Grit Staffs Edges Southern Curbar Froggatt Eastern Quarries Valley Burbage Stanage Edges Northern Chew Valley Kinder Bleaklow 3 4 S11 7TY Fox House Inn

A6187 Grit Staffs A625 Quarries Area Xxxxxxxx A6187 Longshaw (NT parking p&d) to Xxxxxxx Stanedge Pole B6001 to Xxxxxx B6521 Edges Southern S32 2JA A621 Xxxx Grindleford Station Rd and cafe N XXXX Peacock Inn XXX A625 B6054 XXXX Grouse Inn Curbar

XXXXX Froggatt River Xxxxxxx NT car park (p&d) S32 3ZJ M1 Grindleford B6054 XXXXxxx roadside parking

XXXXxxx White Gate A621 B6051 XXXXxxx kissing gate Eastern Quarries B6001 0 1km

Chequers Inn Froggatt Edge

AXXXX AXXXX Valley

Stoney Middleton Burbage XXJ XXX XXXJ XXX Froggatt AXXX AXXX Curbar Edge AXX AXX XXX XXX XXXX XXX Moon Inn AX AX

Curbar Curbar Gap parking BXXX Calver (p&d) Stanage S32 3YR Bridge Inn main road base Bridge Inn to XXX to XXX

B6001 Edges

A623 Northern Gardom’s Edge

A621 Baslow Chew Birchen Edge Valley minor road base DE45 1PQ Robin Hood Inn (p&d) B6050

Chatsworth Edge A619 Kinder A619 Bleaklow B6012 5 6

FROGGATT EDGE 20 mins Grit OS Grid Ref: SK 249 763 Staffs Altitude: 280m

Top-quality gritstone climbing, perhaps only Approach: There are two main approaches, Edges eclipsed by the mighty Stanage. With a rich both from the A625 The most popular ap- Southern diversity of climbing styles and grades, the nu- proach is along the path, which starts from merous classic lines offer an experience among the White Gate (OS Ref. SK 254 776) about the best to be found on gritstone. 500m south of The Grouse Inn on a long sweeping bend in the road. Parking is avail- The fine grit is of immaculate quality, with vir- able at the National Trust Pay & Display car Curbar tually every climb taking perfectly solid rock, park just below the Inn. Parking is also possi- Froggatt giving home to some of the country’s most ble alongside the road just north of the gate. sought after ticks. These range from protected Moderates to poorly protected E9s. With most From the White Gate, the track leads for of the routes clocking in at reasonable grades. 750m to a kissing gate; the crag starts 500m Arguably Froggatt’s greatest showpiece is the south of this gate, 150m after a left turn in

Great Slab, containing perhaps the high- Eastern the path, with an easy descent past Stra- Quarries est concentration of top-quality slab climbs piombo Buttress. An easier descent can be anywhere on grit. Whilst these are mainly made at the southern end of the edge down sparsely protected, there are plenty of better the broad gap between the Froggatt and protected slab, wall and crack climbs on offer Curbar Edges. at all grades. Valley

An alternative approach is via a footpath Burbage This southwest-facing magnificent edge stands starting just below the Chequers Inn. Up to proud above the Derwent Valley. It is a virtu- 6 cars can be parked in the small layby in the ally continuous face of clean and quick-drying bend 75m south of the inn. There is also an rock. Due to its sunny aspect, and excellent area immediately south of the Chequers Inn spread of routes, the crag is very popular where up to 6 cars can be parked. Important throughout the year. Though it can be very hot – please do not park in the pub car park, un- on summer afternoons and evenings. less you pop in to buy a drink. Although this Stanage is a slightly quicker approach, it is steeper and lacks the superb views of the top path. A good warm up on cold days, the path emerges beneath the Downhill Racer area of

the crag. Edges

Northern N Chew Pinnacle Boulders Valley 0 50m Chequers Buttress Chequers Buttress StrapadictomyStrapadictomy GreatGreat Slab Slab CaveSunset Are Slaba Tody’sTody’s Wa Wall ll to Chequers Inn Kinder Bleaklow The Pinnacle 7 | Froggatt Edge 8

STRAPADICTOMY BUTTRESS The crag starts proper with a bunch of confi- Grit

dent, rounded classics. Scrambling descemts Staffs are possible to the left and right..

1 Strapiombante 8m E1 5b «« A chunky, easily protected climb. Follow the zigzag crack on good holds. Make a tricky exit

leftwards, or finish direct. Highy satisfying. Edges

Dave Brearly, Paul Nunn, 1962 Southern 10 2 Strapadictomy 9m E5 6a ««« 7 6 11 One of the most unforgettable routes on grit. 8 Boulder up the cheeky arête to the break. Cru- 9 cify your way out to the flake on the arête and Benign Lives

pull desperately up into a layback position. Curbar Froggatt Now gun for the top. 7 Left Flake Crack 8m S 4a « John Allen, Steve Bancroft, 1976 The corner crack to the right is a fine test in 3 Strapiombo 9m E1 5b «« jamming skills but is sadly becoming polished. The classic roof crack is the scene of many a mêlée. Traverse stylishly outwards until the 8 Right Flake Crack 8m HS 4b The crack widens awkwardly towards the top. easier finishing groove is gained, with relief. Eastern Wilf White, Slim Sorrell, 1949 Quarries Don Whillans, Joe Brown, 1956 9 Parallel Piped 8m E3 5c « 4 English Overhang 9m VS 4c « The left arête of the slab has a couple of quick, The friable flake to the right is gingerly used to smeary moves. Easier for the tall. gain the flared crack, which is followed direct. Graham Hoey (solo), 1986 Dave Gregory, Charles Darley, 1978

10 Benign Lives 7m E6 6c «« Valley 5 Scarper’s Triangle 9m E1 5b « Burbage A good tick for people who can think on their Climb a steep groove in the middle of the feet. Smear up the middle of the slab direct outside face, then press on boldly, direct up a (harder) or using a flake on the right (logical). crack. Johnny Dawes, 1984 John Fearon, Dave Gregory, 1957 11 Mild 9m E4 6b « 6 Oss Nob 9m E4 6a « From the start of Benign Lives, tiptoe along the The bold arête, climbed on its right-hand side. Stanage slab then smear more easily up the arête. Colin Banton (solo), 1978 Julian Lines, 1992 Edges Northern

7 3 6 Chew Valley

4 5

1 2 Kinder Bleaklow Strapacictomy 9 | Froggatt Edge Froggatt Edge | 10

17 Turret Crack 10m S 4a « CAVE AREA The crack just right puts up a stern fight at its Sixty metres right, past a small square but- beginning and end. Grit tress, is the chunky Cave area, This features Don Chapman, Nat Allen, 1948 Staffs the slabby, bold technicalities of Sunset Slab and steeper, quarries challenges around the North Gully Descent: Immediately right of cave itself. Turret Crack the gully provides a polished way down, with just a slightly awkward move to start the descent. 12 Science Friction 12m E6 6a « 23 The left arête of the slab will appeal to lovers of 18 « Edges Slab and Crack 8m HD Southern long ground falls. The ramp in the corner to the right provides a Mark Miller, Bill McKee, 1980 worthwhile though polished outing. 26 Nat Allen, Don Chapman, 1948 13 North Climb 12m S 4a «« 22 24 It’s over 100 years since Puttrell first scaled this 19 Soul Doubt 11m E8 6c «« classic route. Go on, feel the history contained The incredibly bold sidewall, direct, passing 21 25 within this awkward crack. Curbar the base of the ramp. Froggatt James W Puttrell, Henry Bishop, C Douglas Yeomans, 1906 2000 Froggatt Cave

14 Sunset Slab 14m HVS 4b ««« 20 Beau Geste 11m E7 6c ««« 23 6 Cave Crack Indirect 12m HVS 5a « down and rightwards to reach slanting finger Deservedly one of Froggatt’s most famous Jonny Woodward’s era-defining ascent of the Climb Hawk’s Nest Crack to the chockstone, slots in the centre of the wall. Long moves on routes. The first and the easiest in a long line of big left arête of the buttress really set the stage then traverse delicately right to finish upCave good slopey edges, direct up the wall, remain. bold slabs along the crag. Follow the curv- for hard gritstone climbing. Fiddle up the Phil Burke, Paul Nunn, John Sheard, 1980 . An enjoyable little combo.

Crack Eastern

ing crack until it peters out. A smeary traverse Quarries groove in the arête (RPs) to the break. Cams Dave Fooks, Alan Haigh, 2005 leftwards leads to the base of a blind flake, out right. Move left and make a desperate 29 6 Greedy Pig 13m E5 6b «« up which faith and friction will be your only stretch for the tiny crack above. Slap up the 24 Cave Crack 11m E2 5c ««« A right-hand start to Brightside. Battle up the friends. pumpy arête above. Summon all your reserves! This strenuous steep thin crack before scurrying into Bright- Joe Brown, Tony Hyde, Wilf White, 1948 Jonny Woodward, 1982 route is a thuggish way up the archetypal side at the earliest opportunity. gritstone roof-crack leaving the left side of the Paul Mitchell, 1981 15 Sundowner 12m E2 5a « 21 Holly Groove 11m VS 4c « cave. Easy if you can do it, desperate if you 30 Valley A cracking bold finish toSunset Slab on smears The twin-cracked corner is a fine climb. Avalanche 11m E2 6a « Burbage and poor pockets. HVS with side-runners to Slim Sorrell, Nat Allen, 1948 can’t; either way, a massive cam is useful. The square-cut groove is tough for 6a. Get- Joe Brown, Slim Sorrell, 1950 the right. ting your feet over the mid-height roof gives 22 Hawk’s Nest Crack 11m VS 4c ««« John Allen, Neil Stokes, 1972 25 Cave Crawl 16m VS 5a «« a despicably technical crux, fortunately well A fabulous frolic. After a slippery start, the protected by small wires. 16 Deep fun. Starting from the back left-hand cor- Sunset Crack 10m HS 4b «« well-positioned crack, past a chockstone, is E Emery, (aid), 1967. FFA, John Allen, 1975. ner of the cave, layback up to gain a ‘Journey The thin crack is well protected throughout. a steep test of jamming technique. From the to the centre of the Earth’ type passage leading Once over the crux bulge at the beginning the large ledge, the flying flake on the left gives an Avalanche Descent: The rocks to the right Stanage into Swimmer’s Chimney. From just below the rest should be plain sailing. optional, exposed climax. allow a scrambley descent starting beneath a Len Chapman, Bob Tomsett, 1948 Joe Brown, Slim Sorrell, 1948 top of this, squeeze back leftwards to finish. capping boulder. Best soloed.

26 Cave Wall 11m E3 5c «««

A bold and balancey climb, top of the grade, a Edges

Whillans special. Surmount the bulge to gain a Northern 15 small ledge. A hard move brings easier climb- ing but no protection. From the ledge move off rightwards, or tackle the direct finish (more 5c) 18 through the intimidating roofs. 17 19 Don Whillans, 1958 28 Chew Valley 27 Swimmer’s Chimney 12m S 4a « 12 16 The polished chimney is quite a classic of its 20 type and not easy at all. James W Puttrell, 1900s 30 14 28 Brightside 14m E2 5c «« 29 27 13 A great wall climb with good protection. Go Kinder

up Swimmer’s Chimney for 3m to small gear Bleaklow Sunset Slab in the arête. Step down and make thin moves Brightside 11 | Froggatt Edge Froggatt Edge | 12

37 Tody’s Wall 18m HVS 5a ««« 42 ««« TODY’S WALL AREA Three Pebble Slab 10m E1 5a Another of Froggatt’s classics – never has grov- To the right is a tall clean buttress peppered One of the great slab climbs on grit, guaran- elling been so much fun. From the centre of teed to give you a buzz. The route is at the Grit

with good slab climbs across the grades. The Staffs the bay climb to a projecting block. Somehow routes are deservedly popular, with some bottom of its grade, although the top 4c slab gain the top slab and finish with whatever famous low and mid-grade classics. can easily reduce strongmen to tears and raise dignity remains up the fine crack above. muttered calls for top ropes. Climb up the Joe Brown, Slim Sorrell, 1948 lower slab to a weird pocket (runner). Delicate 34 C.M.C. Slab 10m HVS 5b « 38 Motorcade 10m E1 5a «« crux moves lead up and right to a sloping The narrow eliminate slab right of the arête is Brilliant slab action that can be combined shelf. Pad straight up to finish.

Joe Brown, Wilf White, Tony Hyde, 1948 Edges 33 gained awkwardly, and climbed up its centre with the start of Tody’s to give one of the best 32 Southern by great moves, placing gear in the next route E1s on the edge. From the ledge on the right, 43 Four Pebble Slab 9m E3 5c « (E2 without side-runners). climb the centre of the slab. Protection feels The sister route is considerably harder, and just Members of the Castle Mountaineering Club, 1960s distant when tackling the maze of slopey pock- as dangerous. Climb rightwards (but not too 31 35 Heather Wall 16m HVD 3c ««« ets towards the top. far right) through the steep ground, before D Warriner, G Johnson, 1969 Terrace Crack A classic and perhaps the most popular routes gathering your thoughts, moving leftwards

and pressing on up the committing upper Curbar on the edge. A good start for beginners learn- 39 Silver Crack 10m HS 4c « Froggatt 31 Mean Streak 12m E6 6b «« ing the art of jamming. Climb the thin lower Starting just right, climb directly to the forked- slab. The Direct Start is E4 5c, involving a The centre wall demands. After a protectable crack, then blast up the joyous crack just to the lightning crack which is followed on ever- Tody’s Wall-type manoeuvre. John Allen, Neil Stokes, 1972. Direct, Gary Gibson, 1978 crux, move rightwards and soldier on up the right. Once over the polished crux bulge at the widening jams and joyous thrashing. imposing wall on gradually improving holds. start the rest is simply delightful. James W Puttrell, 1890-1902 44 Grey Slab 13m HS 4a «« Dominic Lee, 1981 Dick Brown, 1940s 40 Soft Option 10m HD Butch moves on big holds lead up the right

32 «« Eastern The Gully Joke 15m E3 5c 36 Ratbag 9m E2 5b « Climb the extreme left-hand side of the slab side of the slab until a large ledge is reached. Quarries Climb the flake and groove, usually with a Another bold slab climb. Step out from and the upper wall. Nothing special. The crack above is difficult to protect, difficult side-runner in Terrace Crack. From a ledge Heather Wall and climb the slab between the to climb, but seems even more difficult to fall 41 « place small wires in the crack on the right and arête and the upper crack of Tody’s Wall. HVS Two-Sided Triangle 11m E1 5b out of! Jack Macleod, Freda Rylett, 1940s launch out leftwards and up on hidden holds. with side-runners. Climb the slab immediately right of the shallow John Allen, Steve Bancroft, Mark Stokes, 1975 John Allen, Steve Donnelly, Steve Bancroft, 1974 groove using some shallow slopey pockets. Gary Gibson, 1978 Valley

33 Terrace Crack 13m HS 4b «« Burbage The crack to the right provides a juggy start and thought-provoking finish and some good protection. Well worthwhile, despite being sandy in parts. Freda Rylett, Jack Macleod, 1940s Stanage

38 34 Edges 36 Northern 35 43

44 39 37 Chew Valley

42 40 41 Kinder Bleaklow Tody’s Wall Three Pebble Slab 13 | Froggatt Edge 14

47 Oedipus! Ring Your Mother RIGHT-HAND AREA «« The right-hand area is the showpiece of the 9m E4 6b Proctor’s bold testpiece. From the gully, make a Grit

crag, where a hundred metres of quarried Staffs fierce, fingery traverse leftwards along the thin walls and slabs hold a peerless collection of break to good holds near the arête. From here, testpieces across the grades. This starts with climb the blind flake in the wall above, with an the famous Froggatt Pinnacle, perhaps the ankle-worrying stretch for the ledge. Finish up finest pinnacle on grit, then past many slabs Valkyrie. The direct start is easier. climbs, both bold and safe, and finishing Tom Proctor, 1968 with the last natural hurrah by Chequers But- Scramble down the Edges tress. All routes are clean and quick-drying. Pinnacle Gully Descent: Southern gully at the back of the pinnacle then slither There is a convenient scrambly descent be- down the final rocks. hind the pinnacle and a very easy one at the end of the crag. Back of the Pinnacle: The next routes start

by scrambling up the start of the gully. They

are based on the backmost arête, opposite Curbar 45 Valkyrie 20m HVS 5a, 5a ««« Froggatt Narcissus. ‘The’ essential mid-grade tick on the crag with two contrasting pitches and a wonderfully po- 48 Chapman’s Crack 11m HS 4b « sitioned belay. Pummel up the jam-crack then From the arête, traverse a shelf leftwards to a hand traverse right to a belay on the arête. mantel leading to a tricky finishing crack. Step right again and go up to a short crack, Len Chapman, Bob Tomsett, 1948 Eastern then move left on to the sloping nose and Quarries more easily to the summit (bolt belay). 49 Route One 8m VS 5a « Joe Brown, Wilf White, 1949 Henry Bishop’s original route goes direct from the start of Chapman’s Crack via an awkward 46 Narcissus 9m E6 6b ««« mantel. The lower arête of the pinnacle is home to Henry Bishop, Douglas Yeomans, 1912 one of the best routes of its grade on grit with Valley sustained, hard bouldering all the way. Finish 50 Diamond Crack 8m HS 4b «« Burbage up Valkyrie or traverse off. The polished cracks in the centre of the wall Steve Bancroft, 1976 are climbed by some fierce jamming, with increasing difficulty, but excellent protection 48 49 throughout. Henry Bishop, Douglas Yeomans, 1913

51 Corner Crack 9m HD Stanage The corner-crack from a crux start. Edges Northern Chew Valley

47 45 46 50 51 Kinder Bleaklow Froggatt Pinnacle 15 | Froggatt Edge Froggatt Edge | 16

55 Sickle Buttress Direct 9m VS 4c « 62 Gamma 12m HD « 69 The Great Slab 19m E3 5b ««« From the ledge, continue directly up the wall A great beginer’s route following the crack. Joe Brown’s sweeping line – first soloed on with some fine climbing. Nat Allen, Wilf White, 1951 sight in Woolworths’ pumps (think about that Grit Nat Allen, Don Chapman, 1948 Staffs 63 Allen’s Slab 19m S 4a «« on the crux) – remains the classic of the slab. 56 Performing Flea 9m HVS 5a « A great climb – technical and balancey – just Trend rightwards up the slab to a small, all-too- 55 The bold right arête tackled on either side. don’t expect too much protection. From comfortable ledge. Cool your boots here, and Matt Boyer (solo), 1985 Gamma follow the diagonal break to a ledge. grasp rightwards along a line of well-used foot- 54 Continue delicately right to finish on good holds (crux) until awkward but juggy holds 57 Congestion Crack 10m HS 4c lead to the top and a great feeling of euphoria. The slim groove bounding the steep slab. holds just left of Trapeze Direct. Nat Allen, Wilf White, 1951 Joe Brown, Wilf White, 1951 Edges

Nat Allen, Slim Sorrell, Wilf White, J Morgan, 1948 Southern 64 Trapeze Direct 15m VS 5a «« 70 Hairless Heart 16m E5 5c ««« 52 58 Long John’s Slab 11m E3 5c «« A popular VS lead, containing mainly easy An exquisite and haunting pitch with no hiding 53 A good introduction to the harder slabs, with a 56 climbing, with only one source of well-protect- places, guaranteed to scare the bejesus out of low crux. From the block, gain a narrow ledge you. From the little ledge on The Great Slab, then make crux pulls (very reachy) to better ed difficulty. Follow the large crack direct. Wilf White, Chuck Cook, 1948 move up to the blank left-facing flake. Smear holds. At the steepening, swing right to finish. up this then quickly exit rightwards. Curbar Paul Gray (1pt), 1968. FFA, Al Rouse, 1969 Froggatt 65 Trapeze 14m VD «« John Allen 1975 59 ««« Follow Trapeze Direct to the bulge, thank Downhill Racer 14m E4 6a 71 Artless 16m E5 6b «« Livesey’s infamous creation, tracing a lonely goodness you’re not heading straight up, and traverse right to a short left-trending groove. The bouldery slab has fabulous climbing, and and uncompromising line up the right side has the safest crux. Gain a small ledge then of the slab. From the right side of the slab, Excellent climbing through steep ground, on more than adequate holds. make a series of decisive moves up the ramp to 52 Left Broken 9m VS 5a « climb up and left to make desperate moves to Eastern

RE Davies, RA Brown, 1945 eventually gain the better holds at the end of Quarries Don’t underestimate the awkwardness of this get stood on a thin break. Follow better holds the traverse on The Great Slab. Finish up this. short, frustrating climb. Tussle with the initial along a ramp, until a final committing move 66 Nursery Slab 9m M « John Allen, 1976 groove/chimney before finishing more easily. to the top. The aptly named broken rocks at the left side Slim Sorrell, Nat Allen, 1953 Pete Livesey, Alex Livesey 1977 of the large expanse of slabs. 72 Toy Boy 15m E7 7a «« James W Puttrell, Henry Bishop, Douglas Yeomans, 1906 “A route with no holds and long reaches in 53 Broken Crack 9m VS 5a «« 60 Slab Recess Direct 14m HS 4b « between.” A ferocious solo.

Another Joe Brown route; a well-protected Determination is needed to overcome the 67 Heartless Hare 11m E5 5c «« Ron Fawcett, 1986 Valley brute. The slanting crack really packs its punch initial steep and polished groove. If the large Technically harder than Hairless Heart, but a bit Burbage in the top half, where a choice is to be made. upper groove is reached, climb this more easily less scary. After a few thin moves, a small posi- 73 Synopsis 13m E2 5c «« To jam or to layback, that is the question? to the top. tive edge leads more easily to the break. The once-pegged crack at the right side of the Joe Brown, Wilf White, Slim Sorrell, 1948 Joe Brown, 1948 Steve Bancroft, John Allen 1975 slab is a good climb, but with slightly awkward holds and fiddly protection. Awkwardly 54 Sickle Buttress 10m S 4a «« 61 Slab Recess 18m D «« 68 Jugged Hare 13m E6 6a «« smooth and high in the grade. Gain the halfway ledge in the centre of the The most popular beginner’s route on the From Heartless, a delicate move right on poor Nat Allen, D Carnell, R Handley, (Piton Route, 5 pts). FFA, Steve Stanage buttress, then move right through a scoop, to crag. Climb Gamma for a few metres before holds leads to an uncomfortable position at Bancroft, John Allen, 1974 finish in a groove on the arête. A butch route strolling leftwards to the base of a large flake. the break. Another very worrying move al- 74 Beta 12m VD « A short layback past this brings easier ground, lows better holds on the steep headwall to be for the grade. The deep chimney and broken corner are taken RE Davies, RA Brown, 1945 finishing leftwards. gained. Sandy Alton, J Morgan, 1948 Johnny Dawes, 1983 direct. Nat Allen, Wilf White, 1951 Edges Northern

70 67 63 65 66 68 66 Chew 57 Valley

58 59 61 64 69 73 74 60 71 72 62 Kinder Bleaklow Downhill Racer Great Slab 17 | Froggatt Edge Froggatt Edge | 18

75 Straight and Narrow 14m E3 6a «« 79 Pedestal Crack 12m HVS 5a «« 84 Chequers Buttress 15m HVS 5a ««« 88 Jankers Crack 10m HS 4b «« Those liking ‘barn door’ laybacks will love the The long steep and awkward crack is climbed Pure joy, with exposure, protection and great Very good climbing which presents a series of direct. The innocuous crux arrives whilst pass- moves: a route you’ll do again and again. puzzles that can dispirit the unbeliever. Climb left arête. A committing move to reach the Grit half-height ledge brings much-needed protec- ing the overlap towards the top. Follow the ramp rightwards, then traverse the the blocky groove and wider undercut crack Staffs tion. The upper arête, on the right side, offers Joe Brown, Nat Allen, 1948 wall up and left until a long, move brings a directly above. Jamming ability is a big plus for huge jug on the arête into reach. The spectacu- this route. superb moves in an airy position. The left side 80 The Big Crack 14m E2 5b ««« is harder and bolder. lar finishing arête eases considerably. Joe Brown, Don Chapman, 1949 A fine outing up the steep wide crack in the John Gosling, Mike Simpkins, 1962 89 « 76 Brown’s Eliminate 17m E2 5b ««« headwall. Gear is reasonable, which is more Jankers Groove 11m VS 4c A great, bold wall climb from the Master with than can be said of the holds in the upper 85 Chequers Climb 18m VS 4c «« Follow the last route to the roof then step right section. Butch moves on good slots lead to the The original, and the true start of the Cheq- to take the next crack. If you keep your cool Edges thoughtful, crimpy moves which, although Southern bold, are still inside the safety net. From a few base of the deep, dark crack. This succumbs to uered history, combining the easy bits of this one is a real soft touch; if you bury yourself metres up the corner, traverse left to gain a big a somewhat different approach. Chequers Buttress and Crack with an exposed in the back of the climb and ignore your feet, Don Whillans (1pt), 1955. FFA, John Syrett, 1973 ledge (gear at foot level on the left arête). Thin traverse. From the ledge on the buttress trav- expect a struggle. erse under the roof to gain the delightful finish Joe Brown, Don Chapman, 1949 moves, that are showing sign of wear, allow 81 Stiff Cheese 13m E2 5c « the wall right of the arête to be climbed on of the crack. 90 Jankers End 14m VS 4b « The short crack is short, but definitely stiff. Joe Brown, Wilf White, Nat Allen, Don Chapman, 1949 Curbar slowly-improving holds. Worth placing the awkward protection before Continue the traverse of Jankers Groove until Froggatt Joe Brown, Slim Sorrell, Wilf White, 1948 committing to the crux moves onto the ledge. 86 Bacteria Cafeteria 12m E1 5b «« once round the arête. (A direct start limits the An eliminate line, but with good climbing. fun too much.) From here a shallow groove 77 Armageddon 14m E3 5c «« Finish up the easy groove as for the next route. Steve Bancroft (solo), 1974 The harder, but well worthwhile sister route to From the foot of the ramp, follow a tiny is climbed before stepping back leftwards to . A problem start left of the 82 groove, crossing the leftward traverse of finish up the slabby arête. Brown’s Eliminate Beech Nut 13m E1 5c « Slim Sorrell, Nat Allen, 1949 corner leads to the ledge. Continue in a direct A tough nut to crack. The increasingly difficult Chequers Buttress, to finish up cracks right of

the arête. Eastern line, in an increasingly serious position, but on Quarries crack saps your energy, before handing out Gary Gibson, Jon Walker, Paul Bird, 1979 reasonably good holds. E2 with side-runners. one final move to reach the ledge and easy Alec Burns, Andy Brown, T Wilkinson, 1977 finish up the groove. 87 Solomon’s Crack 14m VD « Don Whillans, Nat Allen, 1951 Follow the starting ramp of Chequers Buttress 78 Green Gut 13m S 4a ««« to it’s top. Finish up the corner above stepping The fantastic corner line gives honest and 83 Chequers Crack 12m HVS 5b «« classic bridging with a crux where it should A local testpiece. The smooth, though well right at the top. There are three harder varia- tions at around S 4a: the wide ‘Victorian’ crack Valley be – near the top. Can give a real tussle if you protected crack succumbs to a combination of Burbage don’t think. laybacks and jams. From a breather at the half- in the left wall; the overhanging top corner; or Nat Allen, Wilf White, 1948 way ledge, the delightful upper crack is cruised the deceptive slot on the right. on perfect jams. Don Whillans, Joe Brown, 1951 Stanage

76 84 Edges Northern

85 84 85 90 88 89 87 77 86 Chew 79 Valley 75 78 80 83 81 82 Kinder Bleaklow Brown’s Eliminate Chequers Buttress ISBN 978-0-903908-09-2 http://shop.thebmc.co.uk/ gritstone action. Get itfrom BMCshopfor the alifetime of the area of climbinghistory The definitive 130 shots full-colouraction 200 boulderproblems 2,200 routes from Modto E9 Featuring: Cliff). Leashaw Brow, Chasecliffe andShining joys ofBauston Tor, RobinHoodQuarries, shy the alongwith BlackRocks, (starring ing Tor),the Cromford andfinally Area (Eastwood, Turning Stone Cock Edge, Stanton Moor),TheAmberValley crags Hood’s Stride, EagleTor, Rowtor and Rocks Cratcliffe inthe gems Area (Cratcliffe, Robin Quarries), UpperMatlock andthe Quarry HallMoor Area Edge, (includingHarland Beeley-Matlock obscure inthe gems worth), ness, Baslow, Gardom’s, Birchen, Chats- (including Froggatt, Curbar, Yarncliffe, Teg- Area, problems oncrags from Northern the fullcoverage ofroutesWith and boulder who get bugandwant the to findout more. great numberofcrags for book usersofthis route crags onthe selected here aswell asa guide definitive for detailsof Pick upthe every in search ofsomething new, guidewillshow this way. the to givetogether alifetime’s perfectly ofclimbing.Whether you know worth whatyou want orare come andinformation Where inspiration the classicsandlocalswillfind endless surprises. find Here lays isaguidethat out myriad these joys asnever seenbefore. visitors will Where first-time desperates. classics to latest the nerve-testing tresses. From top-level circuits. bouldering highballsto From gentle tweed-wrecking Victorian classicsto ishere, tucked-away from bigleadsonmighty Everything onquiet wooded but ticks - varied collectionofoutcrops ongritstone. inthesouth,isarguably thefinestandmost to Rocks oddnessofBlack thefantastic The range ofcrags thatstretches from themighty andFroggatt Curbar inthenorth The definitivegritstoneguide rocks Froggatt toblack - Header | Header | 20

Kinder Chew Northern Stanage Burbage Eastern Froggatt Southern Staffs Bleaklow Valley Edges Valley Quarries Curbar Edges Grit