sign in sign up
<<
Home , Birchen Edge, Bolsover Castle, Calke Abbey, Carl Wark, Chatsworth House, Codnor Castle

WALKING IN

by Elaine Burkinshaw

JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk © Elaine Burkinshaw 2003, 2010 CONTENTS Second edition 2010 ISBN 978 1 85284 633 6 Reprinted 2013, 2017 and 2019 (with updates) Overview map...... 5 Preface...... 7 First edition 2003 INTRODUCTION...... 9 Geology...... 10 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. History...... 12 Printed by KHL Printing, Singapore The shaping of present-day Derbyshire...... 22 Customs...... 28 This product includes mapping data licensed from Ordnance How to use this guide...... 30 Survey® with the permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office. © Crown ­copyright 2010. All rights reserved. THE WALKS Licence number PU100012932 1 ...... 31 2 Stone Circle...... 34 3 , Curbar and Froggatt Edges...... 36 Acknowledgements 4 and ...... 42 I would like to thank my family for their special contributions to this book, in ­particular my dad, Peter Mellor, who assisted with the maps. Thanks also to 5 and ...... 47 husband Andrew, mum and dad for accompanying me on many of the walks and 6 Hope, and the Navio Roman Fort...... 50 putting up with my conversations with my dictaphone. 7 Roystone Grange...... 55 8 Castleton...... 59 9 Hartington and ...... 65 Updates to this Guide 10 Dale and Locko Park...... 68 While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of 11 Chelmorton...... 72 guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime 12 Hartington and Beresford and Wolfscote Dales...... 74 of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the 13 Tideswell...... 79 Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/633/updates), so please check 14 Ashbourne...... 83 before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about 15 and Ashford in the Water...... 86 such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of 16 and Bakewell...... 94 way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about 17 and Crich...... 99 any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent 18 Longshaw Estate and Padley Chapel...... 105 by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, 19 ...... 110 Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal LA9 7RL. Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and 20 Castle...... 115 GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk. 21 Tissington...... 120 22 Eyam...... 125 23 ...... 131 24 Chatsworth House, Bakewell and ...... 137 Front cover: Chatsworth House (Walk 23) Overview map 25 Abbey and Staunton Harold Reservoir...... 143 26 ...... 148 WEST 27 Shipley Country Park ��������������������������������������������������������������������������153 YORKSHIRE 28 ...... 155 MANCHESTER 29 Magpie Lead Mine...... 159 30 Wirksworth and Middleton Top Engine House...... 163 31 Lathkill Dale and Bradford Dale...... 168 55 Der Rive 32 Winster, Elton and ’s Stride...... 172 SOUTH Glossop went r YORKSHIRE 33 Carsington and Brassington...... 176 41 34 Cromford...... 180 35 Pinxton Wharf...... 186 59 40 4 36 Shardlow...... 189 39 6 8 50 37 Belper...... 192 5 49 13 18 38 Monsal Head, Litton and Cressbrook...... 198 47 22 Ri 39 Peak Forest Canal and Torrs Riverside Park...... 203 ver 3 Wy 43 1 CHESHIRE e 38 Chesterfield 40 , Sett Valley Trail and Hayfield...... 208 56 11 24 29 15 23 20 42 41 Glossop...... 212 Bakewell 16 42 Three Shires Head and Flash...... 215 31 19 54 9 2 Matlock 43 ...... 218 53 32 12 57 44 Pentrich...... 221 7 30 34 51 33 35 45 and Country Park...... 224 Leek 21 58 60 17 44 52 NOTTS 46 Hall...... 228 14 Ashbourne Ripley 47 Errwood Hall and Goyt Valley...... 231 37 48 Osmaston...... 234 48 27

49 and River Derwent...... 237 48 10

50 Hathersage and ...... 241 45

51 Holloway and Dethick...... 244 36 52 Midland Railway Centre and Castle...... 248 26 53 Tissington and High Peak Trails...... 252 River 46 54 Caudwell’s Mill and Stone Circle...... 254 Trent 25 55 Upper Longdendale Valley...... 259 56 Buxton and its Country Park...... 262 LEICESTERSHIRE 57 Matlock and Matlock Bath...... 267 58 ...... 273 59 Derwent Dams...... 276 WARWICKSHIRE 60 ...... 280 APPENDIX...... 284 5 Walking in Derbyshire River Lathkill, Walk 31 PREFACE Walking in Derbyshire is my third provide comprehensive coverage of walking guide, following Walking in the whole of the county or of south Sherwood Forest and the Dukeries Derbyshire in isolation – a part of the (Cicerone) and Discovery Walks in county that adds an extra dimension North East Derbyshire (Sigma Press), in terms of scenery and completes a which were both inspired by a desire number of links in chains of tourist to explore new local walks as an alter- attractions identified in this guide. native to the , to which the All the walks in this guide are majority of walkers living in Sheffield easy to moderate in terms of the dif- are automatically drawn. Although my ficulty of the terrain or length, as I husband, Andrew, and I currently live have avoided the more challenging in , we are only 200 geography of the moor- metres from the Derbyshire border and lands. This is partly due to my own very close to Nottinghamshire. Indeed, scenic preferences and partly because I have lived all my life in and around I would describe myself as a rambler Sheffield and Manchester. rather than a serious hiker or moun- This search for a change led to a taineer. In addition, this has enabled very pleasant surprise as I had simply me to include with each walk various not appreciated the scenic quality or tourist attractions, to encourage fami- historical interest sitting on my door- lies, new and infrequent walkers, and step, and I wanted to share this with those seeking to explore more of what others and hopefully persuade them Derbyshire has to offer. to dip their toes into fresh soil. So for With this aim in mind I had little several years I did not set foot in the difficulty in compiling 60 walks set Peak District, and I must admit I genu- against the backdrop of the uniquely inely did miss it, and Andrew would contrasting and outstandingly beauti- often echo my thoughts. I was ready to ful Derbyshire landscape and cover- return to some familiar favourite spots ing an extensive range of themes. in the Peak District and to discover the Indeed, the problem was not what hidden delights of south Derbyshire, to include but what to leave out in which was virtually unknown to me. the space permitted. For example, Numerous walking books have there are remnants of ancient civilisa- been written on the Peak District, tions, fine market towns and villages, Britain’s first and most visited Derbyshire customs and traditions, national park, which covers roughly caverns and mines, castles, grand half of the county of Derbyshire. country houses and parklands galore, Comparatively few guides, however, craft centres, factory shops, gardens, 6 7 Walking in Derbyshire

Eagle Stone, Walk 3 INTRODUCTION Without doubt Derbyshire is one things in Derbyshire as noble as in of the most picturesque counties in Switzerland or Greece’. , renowned for its varied sce- Derbyshire is situated at the nic beauty ranging from wild sombre crossroads of England where high- moorland in the north to sparkling land meets lowland. Many people rivers laced with delightful deep dales tend to think of Derbyshire and the in the central area and gentle rolling well-known Peak District (1437sq km/ countryside further south. Derbyshire 555sq miles, created as Britain’s first has it all, except for a coastline and national park in 1951) as virtually one natural lakes. The poet John Ruskin, and the same thing, but this is totally whose work was heavily influenced incorrect, as the bulk of the Peak by his many visits to the county, District sits in the north of Derbyshire described it as ’a lovely child’s first and overlaps into several other coun- alphabet’ because ’in its very minute- ties. Another popular misconception Georgian and Victorian spa resorts, Before I wrote this book my fam- ness it is the most educational of all about the Peak District is that it is a industrial heritage and transport his- ily and I already had a real love for the districts of beautiful landscapes region of ’peaks’. Surprisingly there tory, adventure and theme parks for the exceptional beauty of Derbyshire, known to me’. Another poet inspired are few hills over 610m/2000ft, and the young and much more. All of this but through my research our appre- by Derbyshire’s countryside was , which is the highest at in the Heart of England with excellent ciation of the county has been greatly Byron, who in a letter to the Irish 636m/2088ft, is a plateau as opposed accessibility from all parts of Britain enhanced. It would give me great plea- poet Thomas Moore said ’there are to a peak. The name is derived from and within an hour’s drive for half the sure to share this with as many other population of England. families as possible. Happy walking. Carl Walk and , Walk 5 Elaine Burkinshaw

Route symbols on OS map extracts (for OS legend see printed OS maps)

route SCALE: 1:50,000 route direction 0 kilometres 0.5 1

0 miles 0.5 1 way point

8 9 Walking in Derbyshire Geology

Anglo-Saxon times when a local tribe Hall, , Kedleston Hall, and from Edale, Walk 4 known as the Pecsaetans called the , Wingfield Manor, area Peacland. , Shipley Hall and The Peak District National Park Elvaston Castle. Taken as a whole, receives an estimated 22 million vis- Derbyshire has not only a memorable its a year, which makes it the second natural splendour but also a great most visited national park in the world array of tourist attractions spread lib- after Mount Fuji in Japan. Its magnetic erally across the county and provid- quality is assisted by the fact that half ing endless interest for all the family. the population of England lives within 100km/60 miles of the Peak District GEOLOGY borders, in areas including the con- The changing topography of urbations of Manchester, Sheffield, Derbyshire can be explained by its Nottingham, Stoke and Derby. The geology as the county has four main horseshoe shape so that, for exam- moorland, gritstone escarpments and latter is the county city of Derbyshire, distinct regions. This varied geology ple, along its eastern edge there is rugged gritstone tors. and home to the car and aero-engine is also reflected in the building mate- a dramatic 20km/12 mile gritstone South of the of manufacturer Rolls Royce and to rials and styles of in the edge running along the Derwent the Dark Peak is the carboniferous . The various towns and villages of the Peak Valley. Today these crags are often limestone of the , or the south of the county receives far fewer District. teeming with rock climbers, but in as it is also known, tourists and remains less well-known In the north of the county, in the past this rock was used to make which runs roughly from Ashbourne despite its outstanding natural beauty what has become known as the Dark millstones and grindstones and has to Castleton. In the Dark Peak, as and a wealth of historic houses and Peak, there are sandstone moor- become known as millstone grit. mentioned, shales underlie the mill- parklands. This book visits many of lands. The sandstone, more com- Examples of discarded millstones stone grit. Shale outcrops can also be these properties, including Hardwick monly known as gritstone, forms a can be found in the Hathersage area found on the fringe of the limestone below Stanage Edge and around White Peak. Shale splits very eas- Mam Tor, Walk 8 Bolehill Quarry. Its most frequent ily when exposed to frost. As a fri- use, though, has been as a building able material often interbedded with stone. sandstone, it is vulnerable to landslip. Millstone grit is insoluble but Mam Tor is a good example of this porous, so it absorbs water which problem, where the A625 has now often seeps through the grit to the been closed for a number of years less porous shales below, producing due to landslip. springs. Grit and shales are less hard Limestone has fissures and is than the limestone of the southern slightly soluble in water, therefore the Peak District, known as the White rivers have been able to carve deep Peak, so the rivers here have worn narrow valleys, which has resulted much wider valleys. The acid soil and in some of the most spectacular riv- harsher, wetter weather in the upland erside scenery in this country, such Dark Peak provide their unique land- as in Dovedale. Sometimes the riv- scape of bleak and windswept peat ers have found a route underground, 10 11 Walking in Derbyshire History

At the end of the Ice Age Britain east in the winter. It is now believed was still connected to the conti- that fires once thought to be acciden- nent, and nomadic man, who was a tal were in fact created deliberately hunter-gatherer, would follow herds to clear what was then forested land to Britain at certain times of the year. for grazing and crop growth. This Creswell Crags on the Derbyshire/ land management may even explain Nottinghamshire border is recog- the lack of trees in the Dark Peak and nised as the most northerly known the development of the peat bogs at inhabited place from the Palaeolithic a later stage. Evidence of period (Old Stone Age) between man can still be found in the Dark 45,000 and 10,000 years ago. As the Peak today where it is possible to find ice melted, Britain became an island microliths, which are tiny flakes of around 8000 years ago. flint from hunting tools. The years 8000 to 4000bc are The final period of the Stone Age, known as the Mesolithic period the Neolithic period (New Stone Age) View from Monsal Head, Walk 38 (Middle Stone Age). After the Ice from 4000 to 2000bc, saw the gradual Age nomadic man came in increas- transition from hunter-gatherer to creating caverns and leaving dry Derbyshire has developed as a result ing numbers to the Dark Peak. By farmer, and permanent settlements valleys behind. At Winnats Pass near of its vast underlying coal mea- 4500bc man could be described as began to appear in the White Peak Castleton it is believed that a cave sures and the growth of the associ- semi-nomadic, visiting the Pennine around 3000bc. The fertile soil and system has collapsed to produce a ated industry during the Industrial uplands in the summer and moving abundance of springs provided an deep narrow gorge. Revolution. In the Peak District any The limestone of the White Peak coal measures found were only near is all around you in the drystone walls the surface and the coal was of very dividing the fields, the crags along poor quality, so all such mining the deep dales, the weird rock for- ­activity had ceased here by the early mations in the valleys and the many 20th century. quarries which have extracted (or still South of Derby and Ashbourne are extracting) stone for commercial is an area of clay and sandstone, use. Unlike the Dark Peak the much ­providing a much more gentle softer White Peak is able to support country­side. ­grassland used for farming, and an abundant range of flowers and plants. HISTORY Northeast Derbyshire has a This outline of Derbyshire’s history belt of magnesian limestone run- is designed to show how the various ning along its eastern edge by the walks in this book fit into the overall Nottinghamshire border, which has picture of the county throughout the resulted, for example, in the gorge centuries, reflecting its changing eco- and caves at Creswell Crags. Much nomic activities and cultures over the Hardwick Hall, Walk 19 of the remaining part of northeast years. 12 13 Walking in Derbyshire History

River Derwent at Baslow, Walk 3 Wark, and Burr Tor provide two forts and other forts around the the main examples. It was also previ- region. The centre of Roman lead ously believed that they were entirely production is thought to have been defensive structures for the Lutudarum, and this name has been Brigante tribe who inhabited most of found on Roman pig or ingots of lead. but they were proba- The location of Lutudarum has always bly also used for other purposes. They remained a mystery but is thought may well have offered a summer place to be in the Wirksworth/Carsington to watch over the herds of livestock area. When Carsington Reservoir and provide a tribal meeting place. was being constructed in the 1980s The Romans moved north of the some archaeologists felt that they had River Trent to secure their northern uncovered the elusive site but the evi- border in early ad70, and this also dence is far from conclusive. allowed them to exploit and protect Military settlement by the Romans for themselves the rich lead deposits in Derbyshire was followed by an ele- ideal combination for growing crops best-preserved remains are of a settle- of the Peak District. They established ment of civilian settlement but there and grazing sheep, cattle and pigs. ment on in the Derwent two forts for military purposes at were no grand luxurious ­ such During the late Neolithic/early Bronze Valley where the Nine Ladies Stone Brough (Navio) in the Hope Valley as the ones established ­further south. Age, man built a number of stone cir- Circle can be seen. Another impor- and at Melandra near Glossop at Civilian settlements grew up around cles in Derbyshire and also earthwork tant site is on the opposite side of the the entrance to the Longdendale the two forts, and the Romans dis- barrows, which usually contained a Derwent Valley on the gritstone edges Valley. A road network was also built covered the warm thermal waters at stone chambered tomb below it. around Curbar, and more recently a across the Peak District linking these Buxton and established a spa resort At this point it is worth mention- site has come to light at Swarkestone ing one of the paradoxes of the Peak on the Trent. Most of the stone circles Typical house at Ilam, Walk 58 District, where tumuli carrying the and round barrows in Derbyshire suffix ’low’, from the Old English relate to the early Bronze Age. It is hlaw meaning burial mound, actually estimated that there are some 500 denotes a high point. Derbyshire’s barrows in the Peak District, many most impressive Neolithic monu- of which were somewhat clumsily ment is Arbor Low, the ’Stonehenge excavated by Victorian archaeologists of the North’. provides such as Thomas Bateman, although an excellent example of a chambered his collection has been saved and can tomb from this period. be seen at Sheffield City Museum. The Bronze Age from 2000 to Until recently it was thought 700bc is known for its emergence that the remains of hill forts scattered of the Beaker people, whose culture around Derbyshire’s Peak District is hallmarked by their highly deco- were mainly from the Iron Age rated pottery and bronze. The Beaker period of 700bc to ad50 but it is now people settled widely up the valleys thought more likely that they date to of the Derwent, Wye and Trent. The the late Bronze Age. Mam Tor, Carl 14 15 Walking in Derbyshire

Dovedale, Walk 58 WALK 1 Creswell Crags

Distance 9km/5½ miles Creswell Crags is a Start Creswell Crags Visitor Centre off the dramatic magnesian B6042 which runs between the A616 at limestone gorge Creswell and the A60 ­honeycombed with Map OS Explorer 270 Sherwood Forest caves, which bisects the Nottinghamshire/ Terrain Easy walking along fields, country lanes northeast Derbyshire and tracks border. The ­animal and plant remains Following the discovery of human remains by archae- found in the caves ologists in the late 19th century this ’miniature Cheddar provide a unique Gorge’ has become one of Europe’s most important sites time-capsule and for palaeontology and archaeology, ranking alongside tell the fascinating HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE Where appropriate, telephone num- Stonehenge and Hadrian’s Wall, although from the pub- story of the ­origins This book is a collection of 60 circu- bers and websites are provided for the lic perspective it is not as well known. Creswell Crags of human life during lar, easy to moderate, day or half-day tourist attractions so you can check Visitor Centre provides an interpretation and apprecia- the last Ice Age. walks from across the county. They opening times, ticket prices and so on. tion of the importance of the ravine in the evolution of range in distance from 4km/2½ miles A map of each route is included, man. to 15.5km/9½ miles and are suitable taken from the OS Explorer 1:50,000 for individuals and families. Each walk series and the distance, starting Creswell Crags includes famed beauty spots and attrac- point, relevant published map to tions and leaves plenty of scope to take with you and the terrain you explore some of the less visited areas. will encounter along the way are Each route is linked to a main described in the box at the start. It historical theme, and the walks have is strongly recommended that you been arranged in a rough chronologi- read the whole of the route instruc- cal order according to the selected tions before setting out on any walk theme, so that you are literally walking so that you are aware of the precise through layers of history and treading nature of the route, including any in the footsteps of past generations. steeper sections, stiles and so forth. Information on the theme of the walk There is also a route summary table and other points of interest precedes in Appendix A to help you choose the route instructions for each trail. your day’s outing.

30 31 Walking in Derbyshire Walk 1 – Creswell Crags

The entire gorge is a Scheduled Ancient Monument Turn left and then immediately right at a signpost and a Site of Special Scientific Interest. From the first 3onto a surfaced tree-lined track. Halfway down Victorian archaeologists, however, the crags have suf- this track on the right-hand side is St Winifred’s fered from poor and inappropriate management, such as Church, which is the private church of the Portland the use of dynamite to blast the caves and a road and family from nearby Welbeck Abbey. On meeting a sewage works built in the gorge. Over recent decades road leave the Robin Hood Way by turning right. there has been substantial development in the gorge and Walk through Holbeck Woodhouse and where the surrounding area to implement the higher standards of road forks bear to the right. At a T-junction turn management, conservation, infrastructure and interpreta- right and walk to another T-junction. Cross over tion that the site deserved to repair the damage done in the road and follow the signposted track in front of the last century. you which is hedged on both sides. This clear track takes you to the A616.

ROUTE INSTRUCTIONS At the road turn right and follow the footpath From the visitor centre car park, which is on 4 along the right-hand side of the A616 into 1the route of the Robin Hood Way, walk past Creswell. Shortly after crossing a road junction off the visitor centre and take the path off to the left to the right which leads to the Crags, turn right at signposted “To The Crags”. Turn left again over a signpost and head up towards Bank House Farm. a bridge into Crags Meadow. The Crags are sign- Follow the track around the right-hand posted to the right. There is a path down each side perimeter of the farm, which shortly becomes of the pond and either option may be taken. hedged on both sides. Turn left on reaching the At the end of the pond turn left and climb a B6042 and then right in 100m onto Hennymoor stile in a few metres. Continue uphill reaching the Lane. Continue past the driveway to Hennymoor brow of a hill and look for a redun- Farm and 100m further on turn right onto a green dant stile in the far left-hand lane and walk to the A60. Turn right onto this corner of the field. road and then right again in 30m onto a track by a lodge, which returns you to the visitor centre. Follow the wall 2 edge on your left which later becomes Refreshments Creswell Crags Visitor Centre a wire fence. The Toilets Creswell Crags Visitor Centre clear path then begins Key Features Creswell Crags and its visitor centre (www.creswell- to swing right to a stile. crags.org.uk, 01909 720378) Climb the stile and fol- low the waymarked path straight ahead across several fields until you reach the road in Holbeck.

32 33