Mt. Vinson (16,067 ft/4,897 m) Planning Package

Photo by Dave Morton Climber Information

Photo by Dave Morton

Keep in Touch Flight Information

As a member of our Mt. Vinson team we encourage you to contact Given the nature of the flight, there may be delays getting in/ us with any questions as our intent is to provide personal attention out of . If we are delayed in Punta Arenas, those are to your preparation needs. While this document will answer many “free” days to tour the city. Alpine Ascents does not provide food, of your questions, we enjoy hearing about your specific interests transport and hotels during your stay in Punta Arenas. and look forward to making the pre-trip planning and training an exciting part of the journey. Please take the time to read this Flight reservations for your climb should be made as soon as document in full. possible. Alpine Ascents uses the services of Charles Mulvehill at Scan East West Travel: (800) 727-2157 or (206) 623-2157. He is very Alpine Ascents Seattle: (206) 378-1927 familiar with our International and Domestic Programs and offers competitive prices on all domestic/international flights.

Paperwork We highly recommend using our travel agent as he can best facilitate changes. Flights back to the USA usually need to be Please make sure you complete and return the following changed (as flights to/from Antarctica are subject to delay). If you paperwork as soon as possible. This information assists us in use our travel agent we may be able to call ahead via satellite procuring permits and making final hotel reservations. phone from Antarctica and make changes in advance, letting you reach home earlier. ⎕ Application ⎕ Passport Copy ⎕ Flight Itinerary ⎕ A.L.E. Forms (mail originals to Alpine Ascents) If you do not book with our agent, it may be more difficult to ⎕ Trip Evacuation Insurance Confirmation change your flight and you would have to wait until you returned to Punta Arenas. This generally requires physically walking into the Travel Arrangements Lan office in Punta Arenas. Please refer to your itinerary to determine correct arrival and departure dates. Flying to Punta Arenas, Chile Delays: Delays leaving Punta Arenas to Vinson will result in This climb begins and ends in the Chilean city of Punta Arenas, our additional lodging and meals costs. Please do not plan any departure point for the landing strip at Union Glacier, Antarctica. important business for the two weeks following the expedition. You are expected to arrive two days before the Antarctica flight Delays of 3–5 days are common (inbound or outbound) and to provide ample time to retrieve any lost luggage and to attend should be expected as part of the planning. Our schedule already a full briefing from Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions (A.L.E)., our includes 3 extra days for delays, and should our climb finish early, flight service. We will pick you up at the airport in Punta Arenas. our travel agent can generally arrange for earlier departure. Please ensure we have your flight schedule.Please Note: You need to pick up your baggage in Santiago, Chile and personally take For more information see Punta Arenas street maps below. it through customs en route to Punta Arenas. This is a common reason why luggage is delayed getting to Punta Arenas.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Climber Information 1 Expenses

Credit cards are accepted at our hotel and in most restaurants. In the chance that we are forced to move hotels, please note that some hotels do not accept credit cards but ATM machines are available. It is advisable to take at least $500 in cash along with your credit card. Additionaly, it is customary to tip your climbing guide. For guidelines we suggest $300 per climber for a great expedition, and $500 for an exceptional one. Tipping is not required and based on your satisfaction with the guides.

Food & Water

We are all aware of the potential monotony of expedition Visa & Entry Requirements food and Alpine Ascents makes every effort to have meals on the climb as enjoyable as possible. A valid passport is necessary to travel to Chile. There are currently This includes local shopping before each no visa requirements for US citizens. Citizens from outside the expedition, pre-planned meals and Unites States need to check with local Chilean Embassy. While dining as a group (in dining tent when there are currently no extra fees due upon arrival, in the past there possible). have been, so be prepared for any changes to entry policies. We take great care in our If you are a citizen from outside the US you are responsible for meal preparation while obtaining a double entry visa. Please check with your local Chilean understanding the Embassy for details. There are currently no health requirements for importance of enjoying entering Antarctica. your food and staying healthy. Alpine Ascents prepares all water by boiling. Emergency Contact Climbers will fill water bottles at all meals. The best way for family or friends to contact you in an emergency is through the Seattle office: (206) 378-1927. For emergencies after business hours, you may contact our Director of Programs, Gordon A.L.E. Janow at home: (206) 419-0097. (texting ok) A.L.E. or Antarctica Logistics and Expeditions has its own paperwork and Lodging protocols (follow the links below). A.L.E oversees our local hotel reservations and operates the in Antarctica. In Punta Arenas You must read, sign and return their paperwork to Alpine Ascents as soon as possible. The scheduled hotel for this expedition is the Dreams Hotel. (Please note: climbers pay for their own lodging in Punta Waste Guide Arenas). Hotel is subject to change before and after the climb. --- As Punta Arenas is a transition town to Antarctica, hotels can be Flight Service Medical Form unexpectedly full at the last minute. You may have a different hotel --- before or after your climb. We can help arrange shared rooms, Flight Service Personal Information Form please note your interest on the rooming part of the application --- and we will try and pair climbers. Alpine Ascents will make the Flight Service Waiver Form initial hotel reservations. --- A.L.E. Biosecurity & Equipment Cleaning Dreams Hotel --- O’Higgins 1235 A.L.E. Visitors Guide Punta Arenas, Chile (600) 626-0000 • www.mundodreams.com

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Climber Information 2 Cybercast

We are planning to cybercast your expedition on our website. If you have any objections to having your name included in the cybercast as a team member, please contact us as soon as possible.

How it works: Guides call in an audio report that is immediately posted to our website. Please let your family & friends know that the lack of a current cybercast does not indicate a problem with the team. The address for the cybercast is: www.alpineascents.com/climbs/mount-vinson/cybercasts/ Gear Follow us on Facebook Please review gear list at the link below carefully and contact us if you have any questions. We realize that you may have personal Like us on Facebook and see our latest news on your Facebook preferences and have tested gear and gear systems in the field, page. http://www.facebook.com/AlpineAscentsInternational but encourage you to contact us with any significant variations. Our lists are updated regularly, but some brands and models do change. Early Departure/Evacuation www.alpineascents.com/climbs/mount-vinson/gear-list/ If you need to leave the expedition early you are responsible for all You are required to bring every item on the list. We are happy incurred expenses (evac fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc). to work closely with you on finding the proper gear. Lastly, conditions can vary greatly in Antarctica and not all items may be used on your particular expedition. Guides oversee the gear list Trip Cancellation Insurance and we make every effort to have gear lists as concise and user friendly as possible. As there are many unforeseen circumstances that may occur during or leading up to the trip, we highly recommend trip You are required to bring every item on this list as described so be cancellation insurance. In many situations, this may be the as precise as possible when packing. Alpine Ascents rents quality only way to receive a refund for unused services. In brief, trip equipment at reasonable rates. In addition, gear is now available cancellation insurance may allow you to get reimbursement if you for purchase at the Alpine Ascents Equipment Store where need to cancel your expedition when you are not entitled to a climbers on an Alpine Ascents expedition will receive a discount. refund from Alpine Ascents. Alpine Ascents International offers a plan in conjunction with our travel insurance partner.

Recommended Reading • Our flight carrier for Antarctica requires insurance coverage for 7 days after your expected return date. The Endurance: Shackleton’s Legendary Antarctic Expedition • Detailed policy information will be sent upon receipt of your by Caroline Alexander, Knopf completed application, see website for complete details.

Let Heroes Speak: Antarctic Explorers, 1772-1922 Please Note: A.L.E. requires trip evacuation insurance. This can by Michael H. Rosove, Naval Institute Press be purchased through our travel insurance partner (as part of or separately from a Trip Cancellation Insurance package). Please To Everest Via Antarctica: Climbing Solo on the Highest Peak on email us a copy of your confirmation letter with policy number Each of the World’s Seven upon receipt.

For more good reads, visit our Vinson website.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Climber Information 3 are two indigenous inhabitants. Local legend has it, that those who kiss ‘the native’s big toe’ are destined to come back to Punta Arenas.

The city features many mansions and other imposing buildings dating from the wool boom of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. As the best and largest port for thousands of kilometers, Punta Arenas attracts ships from the burgeoning South Atlantic fish industry as well as Antarctic research and tourist vessels.

Leave No Trace

Alpine Ascents International practices Leave No Trace principles on all expeditions. We believe that given the proper information most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment.

Please Visit: www.lnt.org/learn/7-principles

As guides, we spend time teaching the Cancellation & Refund Policy environmentally appropriate Leave No Trace principals and practices. There is Alpine Ascents must adhere to a strict refund policy on all nothing more beautiful than working expeditions. Please review your application, brochure and website hard to get high into the mountains, for current refund policy. Our refund policy also protects other come upon a pristine campsite, witness incredible views and have members who have committed their time and money to the the feeling that no one has been there before. expedition. Please visit our website for a full list of expedition cost inclusions/exclusions. Conversely, there is nothing more disheartening than working hard to climb a mountain, reaching a site and encountering trash, www.alpineascents.com/climbs/mount-vinson/price-schedule/ food waste and toilet paper. Please read the seven LNT principles, and call the office if you have any questions about what you can do to plan ahead. History of Punta Arenas

Punta Arenas lies on the western shore of the Straits of Magellan, in Chile’s southernmost region of Magallanes and Chilean Antarctica. Punta Arenas means Sandy Point, a notation, which appeared on sailors’ charts throughout the 1700’s. With a population of approximately 125,000, Punta Arenas is a small city with a remote, frontier character and quiet Sundays. The entire region has a population of approximately 150,000 of Spanish, Yugoslav, German, British, French and Italian ancestry. As in all of Chile, Spanish is spoken and it is essential to know some basic words as very few people speak a second language.

The climate can be harsh, with winds averaging 30-40 km/hr throughout the spring and summer, an annual mean temperature of 6.7ºC and an average yearly rainfall of 425 mm. The first European to reach the area was the Portuguese explorer, Fernâo de Magalhâes, who, like many navigators before him, searched for an easier route to the East in order to avoid the arduous trip around Africa. In 1520 he reached the sea passage later named after him: the Straits of Magellan. A monument to Magellan is Photo by Dave Morton found in the main square of Punta Arenas. At Magellan’s foot

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Climber Information 4

Preparing for Mt. Vinson

Photo by Dave Morton

A Training Program for Alpine Ascents’ Mount Most people will need to train specifically for their climb of Vinson Vinson Expeditioners for at least 4–5 months, building up from a solid baseline of fitness. During your training, you will need to progressively ramp up your By Courtenay & Doug Schurman of BodyResults.com hike time, distance and elevation gain (at roughly 10% per week) to safely and effectively build your climbing-specific conditioning. Introduction Trying to rush this will increase the risk of experiencing some sort of training injury and not being ready for your trip. Below are During this 18–day adventure to the summit of Vinson more details of how to incorporate these four priorities into your (16,067’) you will be carrying a backpack and pulling a sled laden training program. with 10 days’ worth of gear and food. Be prepared to face very cold temperatures despite full-time daylight. The climb requires use of ascenders and fixed lines between camp 1 and 2 over a 40° slope Climbing Conditioning for 1,800’, and you can expect a long 12 hour summit day, during which you will gain 3,600’ of elevation to reach the summit. Hike along outdoor trails, gradually increasing your pack weight until you feel comfortable carrying a 40–50 pound pack. If you In addition to solid alpine snow and ice climbing skills, you live where it is relatively flat, go up and down stairs or train on need strength endurance, high-altitude tolerance, and strong an inclined treadmill or stairmaster. Use whatever varied surface cardiovascular conditioning. Just because you exercise regularly terrain (i.e. gravel beds, sand dunes, river banks) you have access does not mean you have the conditioning needed to reach the to. A reasonable goal would be to ascend 3,000 feet carrying an summit of the coldest . Plenty of people who have the average pack of 45 pounds in a 3 hour period, or roughly 1,000 endurance to run a marathon fail to summit high-altitude peaks. vertical feet per hour. A good training option for pack weight Pure cardiovascular fitness is simply not enough. You should focus is to carry water in gallon containers or collapsible jugs, so you on building physical conditioning necessary to ascend 3,600’ of can dump water at the top as needed, to lighten the load for the elevation on successive days carrying up to 55 lbs. descent.

1. Climbing Conditioning: pack–loaded uphill hiking, walking, In early season, start with a hike that gains up to 2000’ elevation and stair climbing over 5–7 miles round trip, and carry a 20-pound pack; each hike try adding 3–5 pounds until you are comfortable with a 40 - 45 2. Strength Training for the lower body and core pound pack, then begin increasing the total elevation gain and mileage. When you can gain 3,000 feet while carrying a 45-pound 3. Cardiovascular Training: including both aerobic and pack, start decreasing rest breaks and increasing speed on each anaerobic workouts without pack weight conditioning workout. A month from your climb, you should be comfortable hiking on successive days with at least 45 pounds on 4. Flexibility Training one of those outings.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Training Program 7 (Climbing Conditioning continued) Strength Conditioning Two training techniques that will be useful for high–altitude trekking are 1) interval training and 2) back to back training Training with free weights, bands, a backpack, bodyweight (discussed in more detail in “Putting it All Together” below.) To exercises, or gym machines will help you build overall strength, include interval training, find a steep hill or sets of stairs that will particularly in the core (lower back and abdominals), upper back allow you to climb steadily for several minutes. Push as hard as and shoulders, and legs. Developing strength in your upper you can going up, then recover coming down, and repeat for back and shoulders will help you with such tasks as carrying anywhere from 20–45 minutes depending on how close to your your pack and using trekking poles effectively. The calves, hips, climb you are. Gradually add weight to your pack (no more than quads, hamstrings and glutes are all involved in ascending and 10% per week) until you can carry 45 pounds the entire time. descending steep, hard-packed snow and ice slopes (up to 45 Another form of interval training that is useful for this particular degrees), and a great degree of strength endurance is required in climb is loading a children’s sled with weight or rigging up a all areas of the legs and hips, especially during those segments large rubber tire and dragging it back and forth across a lawn when you will be carrying a pack and pulling a sled. or snowfield will also show you what muscles you will want to strengthen for sled pulling up to 35 pounds. If possible, participate Training primarily with free weights will give you the functional, in as many hikes at altitude — and in winter conditions — as you climbing-specific strength that will help you most in the possibly can to learn how your body reacts in extreme cold and mountains. Free weight-training requires that you balance the above 13,000 feet elevation. weights as you would your own body, weighted with a pack, in three-dimensional space. When starting any strength conditioning program, complete two full-body strength workouts a week for 45–60 minutes each, focusing on compound exercises such as squats, lunges, step-ups, dips, pull-ups, rows, dead lifts, bench presses, pushups, and overhead presses.

In the beginning phase of strength conditioning, focus on building a foundation for harder workouts; to that end, keep the weight light enough to concentrate on good form and complete 2 sets of each exercise for 8–10 repetitions. As you continue to train, you will shift focus to building strength (generally lower reps 5–8 with heavier weight). 4–6 weeks before your climb, shift your training to focus on strength endurance (higher reps 10–15 with light weight) to turn the newly gained strength into greater strength endurance. Each training phase should vary the weight used, repetitions completed, number of sets, and rest intervals. Regardless of training phase, always be sure you maintain proper form in order to prevent injury or strain.

Cardiovascular Conditioning

Include spinal-loading aerobic training options 3–5 times a week. Appropriate options include trail running, walking on an inclined treadmill, doing stair stepping or step mill training, jogging, working on an elliptical machine, walking up and down hills, or participating in step aerobic classes. While biking, rowing and swimming are aerobic options for the earliest stages of training, be sure as you get closer to your trip that you include activities suggested above that load the spine and legs the same way that hiking will.

When first beginning a cardiovascular training program, begin

Photo by Dave Morton with three weekly workouts of 30 minutes of sustained activity at a moderate intensity, and build to 4–5 aerobic sessions of

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Training Program 8 (Cardiovascular Conditioning continued) somewhat lighter pack (20 pounds) for greater mileage or elevation gain on the second day to simulate the back-to- sustained effort for at least 45–60 minutes. Be sure to include a back requirements of long days on your trip. This will not only be 5–10 minute gentle warm-up before working at your target heart helpful physically but also prepare you psychologically for the rate for the day (for most workouts, choose a level of exertion challenge of repeat high–effort days without any recovery days in that allows you to connect a few words together in a phrase, but between. A sample week of training a month prior to your climb leaves you feeling comfortably tired at the end of the workout), might look like the chart above, in an effort to help you build as and cool down with 5–10 minutes of appropriate stretching of the much stamina as possible. muscles you use most in your activity, including lower back, calves, hamstrings, hips and quadriceps. Be sure to include at least one recovery day per week and listen closely to your body. Take the final week to taper or gradually reduce intensity and volume of training so that by the time Flexibility Conditioning you leave for your trip you are well rested and physically and psychologically up to the challenge. Be sure to include at least 5–10 minutes of targeted stretching following every workout, specifically for the hamstrings, glutes, hips, calves, forearms, lower back and quadriceps. If you have You can find additional training resources at BodyResults.com: any areas of concern early season, add emphasis to making sure • Training Articles you have normal range of motion about all your joints. This will • Training Books and DVDs become even more important as you add weight and distance to • Customized Online Mountaineering Specific Training your conditioners. Special discounts are available for Alpine Ascents Customers at: www.BodyResults.com/aai Putting It All Together This training information was provided by Wilderness Sports Roughly a month before your climb, you should be at the conditioning experts Courtenay and Doug Schurman of conditioning level where you are comfortable hiking on BodyResults.com. They are the exclusive conditioning resource for consecutive weekend days, what is referred to as Back-to-Back Alpine Ascents. They oversee all client training, are co–authors of training. This involves hiking with your target climb pack weight the book, The Outdoor Athlete (2009) and are creators of the Train (40-45 pounds) on the first day for at least 3,000’ gain, and a To Climb Mt Rainier DVD.

Weekly Workout Schedule

Type M Tu W Th F Sa Su

Hills, stairs 30lb sled Hike 8–10 miles, 40- drag 35–45 min., Hike 8–10 miles, 45 lb pack, gain 3,000 40 lb pack, Interval 40-45 lb pack, gain Climbing ft; at least 1 on snow level(short bursts 3,000 ft. with 30lb sled >65% Max HR)

Full body, 12–15 reps Full body, 8–10 reps Strength per set, 45–60 min. per set, 45–60 min.

75–90 min. no 45 min. no pack 30 min. recovery level pack distance level tempo level (75–85% Cardio (<65% Max HR) (65–75% Max HR) Max HR)

As needed to prevent As needed to prevent 10–15 min. at the end 10–15 min. at the end 10–15 min. at the end 10–15 min. at the end Flexibility stiffness stiffness

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Training Program 9 Mountaineering Physiology

Hydration Hypothermia

Humans are mostly water. Our brain is cushioned by fluid, our Hypothermia occurs when body temperature drops to 95° F or joints are lubricated by fluid, our blood is 90% water, and every lower. It can develop whenever heat loss exceeds heat production biochemical reaction takes place in water. Exercise causes water and is common during the wind, rain and hail of summer as well loss through sweating, breathing, and metabolism. When it is as the cold of winter. In order to prevent hypothermia it helps to warm we sweat to lose heat and when it is cold we lose water to understand the mechanisms of heat production and heat loss. moisten the cold air we breathe. Obviously maintaining enough water in our system is important, but how important? Heat Production

Our basal metabolic rate is a constant internal furnace. Dehydration Shivering produces heat at a rate 5 times greater than our normal metabolic rate. Dehydration is often overlooked as a cause of accidents, illness, and injury in the mountains. With just a 2% fluid deficit we How We Lose Heat experience mental deterioration, decreased group cooperation, vague discomfort, lack of energy and appetite, flushed skin, Conduction: Direct contact between a hot and cold object impatience, sleepiness, nausea, an increased pulse rate and a 25% Convection: Heat loss to moving air or water loss in efficiency. Radiation: Infrared or heat radiation passing to a cold object. Evaporation: Through sweating and breathing How much water should we drink to stay healthy? Probably more than we usually drink. 3 to 4 liters a day is the minimum, with Signs & Symptoms another liter added for cold or high altitude conditions. Thirst is a poor indicator, alerting us to the fluid deficit after we are already Mental: Apathy, lethargy, slow and improper response to cold, dehydrated and indicating we are satiated before we are fully deterioration in decision making ability, increased complaints, rehydrated. Urine color and volume are helpful indicators; darker, decreased group cooperation more concentrated urine is an indicator of dehydration. This is a Physical: Shivering, loss of fine motor skills progressing to later sign, appearing after our body has decided to conserve fluid. stumbling, clumsiness and falling

Fluids must be forced to maintain hydration in the mountains. Treatment & Prevention

Drink early, anticipating fluid loss throughout the day. Remove yourself from the cold, dry off, insulate, and hydrate with Drink often, preventing mental and physical deterioration. hot drinks and food. With what we know about heat loss, we Drink more than you think you need. should never fall victim to hypothermia.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Mountaineering Physiology 10 Altitude Illness

Oxygen diffuses from the alveoli in the lungs into the blood because the gas pressure is greater in the alveoli than in blood. At altitude, diminished air pressure reduces the pressure in the alveoli and decreases the amount of oxygen diffusing into the blood.

Factors that can affect the incidence and severity of altitude illness:

1. Rate of ascent 2. Altitude attained (especially sleeping altitude) 3. Length of exposure 4. Level of exertion 5. Hydration and diet 6. Inherent physiological susceptibility

Signs & Symptoms

AMS: headache, malaise, loss of appetite, nausea, disturbed sleep, peripheral edema

Pulmonary Edema (fluid accumulation in the lungs): AMS, shortness of breath, fatigue, dry cough progressing to productive cough, increased heart rate and respiratory rate, rales (sounds of fluid in the lungs), ataxia.

Cerebral Edema (swelling of the brain): AMS, changes in level of consciousness, ataxia, severe lassitude, Frostbite headache, vision disturbances, seizures, hallucinations, etc.

As blood flow declines, cooling can progress to freezing. The Prevention & Treatment fluid between cells freezes forming ice crystals that draw water out of the cells, dehydrating them. A second phase of damage Ascend slowly, climb high and sleep low, high carbohydrate diet, occurs during rewarming. Damaged cells release substances hydrate. If you experience the symptoms of altitude illness, the that promote constriction and clotting in small blood vessels, most effective treatment is todescend as soon as possible. impairing blood flow to the tissues. Frostnip, Superficial frostbite, and Deep frostbite correlate to 1st, 2nd and 3rd degree burns. Causes of frostbite include cold stress, low temperatures, wind chill, poor insulation, contact with supercooled metal or gasoline, interference with circulation; cramped position, tight clothing, local pressure, tight fitting or laced boots, and dehydration.

Immersion Foot

A local, non-freezing cold injury that occurs in cold, wet conditions usually in temperatures of 30 to 40° F. It can occur with only ten hours of exposure to these conditions. Dry socks and feet provide total protection. Rotate socks as needed. Dry out socks on your body and in your sleeping bag overnight, and always sleep with warm dry feet.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Mountaineering Physiology 11