The City of London

18 B I 19 The City of London

The City is London’s most ancient quarter and a global ﬁ nancial centre that has been closely connected with international trade and commerce for 2,000 years. The tightly built ‘Square Mile’ of small streets, crooked alleys, squares, courts, churches, civic buildings, o ces and high rises stretches from the Royal Courts of Justice in the Strand (Temple Bar) to Aldgate in the east and from the Thames in the south to City Road in the north.

ondon fi rst became a port of wealth and prominence under Roman occupation ( 43–410). In the 2nd century, the L TOWER OF Romans built a towering defence wall around LONDON the City, 20ft high and 8ft wide, as impressive HOUSES OF as Hadrian’s Wall in the North. It formed the PARLIAMENT foundations for the medieval city wall that was restored by King Alfred in the 9th century and remained standing until the 18th and 19th centuries. The legacy of this wall is that it loosely defi nes the perimeters of the City to this day and signifi cant remains may still be seen at Tower Hill, the Barbican and on the modern road called London Wall. After the Norman Conquest of 1066, William the Conqueror built three mighty for- tresses in the City to subdue its citizens (the Tower, o cially outside the City’s limits, is the only one that remains). However, William also recognised the City’s value to the wealth of the country and approved a London charter which upheld previous Saxon rights and privileges. In the 12th century, the City was granted the autonomy of self government, a privilege that continues today. Many of the City’s grand livery companies (see overleaf) were founded in the 12th–13th centuries. By the 15th century the City was home to fl ourishing trading fi rms and in 1600 the great East India Company was established. In 1565, Sir Thomas Gresham founded the Royal Exchange, opened by Elizabeth I. The Plague of 1665 reduced the population by one fi fth and then in 1666 the Great Fire razed fi ve-sixths of the medieval city to the ground, destroying 86 out of 107 parish churches and the halls of 44 livery companies. Although the chief architect, Christopher Wren, wished to restructure along more planned, Enlightenment lines, the urgent need to rebuild meant that the City was re-erected over its medieval foot- print, within the outline of the old Roman walls. CITY OF LONDON After the Fire many wealthy inhabitants moved west, but the City remained a great Sir Norman Foster’s Swiss Re Building (the ‘Gherkin’, 30 St Mary Axe) commercial centre. The Bank of England was founded in 1694 and this and other looms above the façades of an earlier era. 28 The City of London Blackfriars 29

blackfriars & ludgate hill

Map p. ???, ??. Underground: Blackfriars.

Blackfriars, the southwest corner of the City, occupies the area around Blackfriars Station, a major terminus with entrances on both the north and sound sides of Blackfriars Bridge. Blackfriars Millennium Pier is a stop for river bus services. Blackfriars takes its name from the Dominicans, who wore black habits and who established extensive monastic buildings between the Thames and Ludgate Hill. Edward I granted them the land in 1274 and allowed them to rebuild the City Wall around this area. It was customary in medieval cities for the two mendicant orders to set up houses close to the city walls. Thus the Dominicans were at Blackfriars, near Ludgate and the mouth of the Fleet river, while the Franciscans (Greyfriars) occupied the areas around Newgate and Aldgate. The Blackfriars buildings were used for state occasions and meetings of the Privy Council. A synod here in 1382 condemned Wycliffe’s teaching as heretical. It was also here that a decree of divorce was heard between Henry VIII and Queen Catherine of Aragon. The friary was closed in 1538, during the Dissolution of the Monasteries blackfriars lane and carter lane Queen Victoria Street, a wide thoroughfare created in 1867–71, sliced through many ancient streets and alleys and as a result created wedge-shaped sites on which trian- gular buildings were built. One of the last remaining is the Black Friar pub, opposite the station on the corner of New Bridge Street. The sculpture over the main door is of a rotund, black-robed friar smiling beatifically down on passing traffic. Built in the 1870s, the pub has a unique Arts and Crafts interior dating from 1905 (restored 1983) of polychrome marble slabs and beaten bronze bas-reliefs of jolly friars at work. In the restaurant, there are red marble columns, an arched mosaic ceiling and further decorative figures. From the pub, cross under the railway bridge and immediately on the left is Blackfriars Lane, leading into Playhouse Yard, where Richard Burbage’s theatre once queen victoria street stood. Further up Blackfriars Lane on the right is the Apothecaries’ Hall, dating Detail of the decoration of the Black Friar pub. partly from the 1660s, partly from the 1780s. It is built on the site of the friary guest house. Carter Lane, off Blackfriars Lane to the right, is an atmospheric street of mainly DOMINI NOSTRI JESU CHRISTI / PER QUEM MIHI MUNDUS CRUCIFIXUS EST pre-20th-century buildings with narrow alleys leading off it. It has so far managed to ET EGO MUNDO’ (But God forbid that I should glory, save in the cross of our Lord escape development and is favoured by TV crews when a location redolent of yester- Jesus Christ, by whom the world is crucified unto me, and I unto the world). year is required. The former St Paul’s Choir School (F.C. Penrose, 1874–5) at the In Dean’s Court itself, the former St Paul’s Deanery (1672) was designed by Wren. end of the street on the left, on the corner of Dean’s Court, has been a youth hostel The two-tone red-brick façade, with sash and dormer windows, is a vision of restrained since 1975. The neo-Renaissance building is reminiscent of an Italian palazzo and elegance. John Donne, when Dean, lived in the earlier house on the site. Since 1996, would not look out of place amongst the buildings commissioned by Prince Albert in it has been the official residence of the Bishop of London. From here you can either South Kensington. The sgraffito Latin frieze running along the first storey is from St continue up Dean’s Court to St Paul’s (see p. ???) or, from Carter Lane, go down Addle Paul’s letter to the Galatians, 6:14 ‘MIHI AUTEM ABSIT GLORIARI NISI IN CRUCE Hill and then Wardrobe Terrace to reach the church of St Andrew-by-the-Wardrobe 88 The City of London Eating and Drinking in the City 89

The organ, one of the oldest in the country, was a gift from Thomas Whiting in 1676 and is attributed to Renatus Harris (see p. ???). Thomas Bray, founder of the SPCK co.uk. Map p. ???, ??. able pizza, salads and pasta dishes. and SPG, was vicar here from 1708–22. William Symington, pioneer of steam naviga- Jamaica Wine House. Originally Swift, efficient service. Decent wine. tion who built the Charlotte Dundas, died here ‘in want’ in 1831 and is buried in the a coffee house, now a pub known Open at weekends. Close to the church (tablet on west wall). In the south aisle is a finely carved panel of David playing familiarly as the ‘Jampot’, a popular Barbican. 125 Alban Gate, London the harp which, together with the lectern, dates from the early 18th century. Jeremy City lunch spot. Downstairs at Todd’s Wall. T: 020 7600 8880, pizzaexpress. Bentham was christened here in 1747. The fine peal of eight bells was cast in the 18th Wine Bar you can sit over a full meal com. Map p. ???, ??. century at Whitechapel bell foundry (see p. ???). Daniel Defoe was married here in or a trencher of tapas. Good wine list. The Ship. Tiny old pub in Hart St (see 1683: he mentions Aldagte and its church frequently in his Journal of the Plague Year. Closed weekends. St Michael’s Alley p. ??? for details). Map p. ???, ??. (off Lombard St). T: 020 7929 6922. Simpson’s Tavern. ‘The oldest chop Map p. ???, ??. house in London’, in business since The Mercer. Angels on horseback, 1757 and still serving traditional eating and drinking in the city bubble and squeak and spotted dick? English food (roast beef and Yorkshire If your mouth begins to water, then pudding, Lancashire hot pot, ham During the working week, the City is a hubbub of activity. Bars and restaurants the Mercer is for you. Large, airy with parsley sauce). Open Tues–Fri are crowded and lively at lunchtime and the streets are filled with cafés and sand- space serving good old British scran. for breakfast and lunch, Mon lunch wich bars. Getting fed is not a problem. The situation is less easy at weekends: Lunch and dinner. Closed weekends. only; closed weekends. Ball Court (off the streets are more tranquil and better for sightseeing, but the weekday work- 34 Threadneedle St. T: 020 7628 0001, Cornhill). T: 020 7626 9985, simpson- ers’ watering holes are shut. The list below includes traditional weekday haunts themercer.co.uk. Map p. ???, ??. stavern.co.uk. Map p. ???, ??. as well as a handful of places that cater to weekenders. New Street Wine Shop. A wine Sweetings. Classic fish restaurant, ‘shop’, technically, but big wooden in business since 1889. Delicious pot- 1 Lombard Street. Modern European Map p. ???, ??. tables, dozens of great wines by the ted shrimps. Lunchtimes only, closed bar and brasserie in the heart of the Duck and Waffle. Brasserie with glass, and simple charcuterie and weekends. 39 Queen Victoria St. No City. Popular with bankers at lunch- excellent views. Open almost round sandwiches for sale. Closed weekends. reservations. sweetingsrestaurant.com. time but a hearty greeting is extended the clock (6am–5am). 40th Floor, 16 New Street (off Bishopsgate). T: 020 Map p. ???, ??. to all. Superb food. Closed weekends Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate. T: 020 3503 0795, newstreetwineshop.co.uk. Viaduct. Historic tavern close to St 1 Lombard St. T: 020 7929 6611, 1lom- 3640 7310, duckandwaffle.com. Map Map p. ???, ??. Paul’s and Smithfield Market. Bar bardstreet.com. Map p. ???, ??. p. ???, ??. One New Change. Plenty of places food served at lunchtimes (they are Black Friar. A member of the Grand Café. Occupying the court- to eat and drink in this shopping proud of their roast beef sandwiches). Nicholson’s group of pubs. Wonderful yard and upper level of the old centre, and all are open daily, which Open for drinks until 11pm. Closed Arts and Crafts interior (see p. ???). Royal Exchange are the Grand Café, makes it a possible solution if you weekends. 126 Newgate St. T: 020 Pub food. Open daily. Some outdoor with brasserie-style food, and the are visiting the City at a weekend. 7600 1863, viaducttavern.co.uk. Map seating. 174 Queen Victoria St. T: 020 Restaurant Sauterelle (‘Grasshopper’, Among the many options are Searcy’s p. ???, ??. 7236 5474. Map p. ???, ??. named after the Gresham emblem; Champagne Bar (also offers snacks Ye Old Cheshire Cheese. Historic Bonds. Bar and restaurant in an see p. ???), offering a Provençal- and lunch), Gordon Ramsay’s Bread pub on Fleet Street (see p. ???) offering old banking hall serving ‘modern’, influenced menu midday and evening. Street Kitchen, which serves ceviche atmosphere, good cheer and edible award-winning cuisine (ingredients Closed weekends. Royal Exchange. T: (the 21st-century East Ender’s equiva- pub food. Open Mon–Fri lunchtime combined in previously unthought- 020 7618 2480, royalexchange-grand- lent of the jellied eel?) and Jamie and evenings. 145 Fleet St (entrance of ways). Good wine list. Restaurant cafe.co.uk. Map p. ???, ??. Oliver’s Barbecoa, where meat is on Wine Office Ct). T: 020 7353 6170. open Mon–Fri, bar open daily, serving Imperial City. Good Chinese res- seared and grilled in a variety of ways. Map p. ???, ??. sandwiches and snacks at weekends taurant under the Royal Exchange. 1 New Change. onenewchange.com. from 3pm. 5 Threadneedle St. T: 020 Closed weekends. Cornhill. T: 020 Map p. ???, ??. 7657 8090, bonds-restaurant.co.uk. 7626 3437, orientalrestaurantgroup. Pizza Express. Better than accept- 102 The Tower of London Tower Bridge / St Katharine Docks 103

the blue line on the pavement to the final part of the tour, the Victorian Engine Rooms, which are situated on the south side of the river (Shad Thames). Here one can see the enormous pumping engines, accumulators and boilers that were originally used to raise the bascules. An interactive model of the bridge allows you to raise the bascules via both steam and modern hydraulic methods. Exit via the gift shop. You can either explore the south side of the river from here, where there are plenty of riverside places to eat (see p. ???) or return across the bridge to St Katharine Docks.

st katharine docks

Map p. ???, ??. Underground: Tower Hill; DLR: Tower Gateway.

Since the 1990s, the area of the Thames known as the Upper Pool, which stretches from London Bridge to just below Tower Bridge on both sides of the bank, has been enjoying a revival and the area thrives once more, albeit in a 21st-century guise. The riverside walk has been opened up, new buildings have been built and old warehouses and wharves have been converted into living units, offices, shops and riverside eating and drinking establishments. tower bridge St Katharine Docks were the first of London’s docks to be regenerated into commercial and leisure space after the demise of London’s shipping industry. Today the The resulting combined suspension and bascule bridge took eight years to build and serene waterside expanse houses accommodation, offices, restaurants, shops and an its 11,000-ton steel core is clad in Cornish granite and Portland stone. The carriageway exclusive marina: it makes a good place to go for a drink or a bite to eat after visiting between the towers is composed of two bascules (or drawbridges), which are raised to the Tower. allow tall ships to pass through. The original steam pumping engines used to provide hydraulic power to raise the bascules were replaced in 1976 by electric motors. The history of st katharine docks two high walkways between the towers were constructed to allow pedestrians to cross A dock has existed here since 1125. In 1147–8, a hospital and priory were founded on uninterrupted when the bascules were in operation. However, pedestrians preferred the land under the patronage of Queen Matilda, wife of King Stephen, who referred to to cross at road level and the walkways became the haunt of unsavoury characters, it as ‘my hospital by the Tower’. The priory escaped dissolution thanks to Katherine leading to their closure in 1910. Although river traffic in this part of the Thames has of Aragon, by then its patron. She remained in the role, even after her divorce from diminished since its 19th-century heyday, the raising of the bascules is still an impres- Henry VIII, until her death. By the end of the 18th century some 3,000 people lived sive sight (a timetable of bridge lifts may be found on towerbridge.org.uk). and worked in the precincts of the ancient hospital and church and thousands more continued to settle here, turning the area into a densely-built slum. In 1825 the area visiting tower bridge was taken over for development as a dock and the inhabitants were unceremoniously Entry to the Tower Bridge Exhibition (open April–Sept 10–6, Oct–March 9.30–5.30; evicted. admission charge; shop; T: 020 7403 3761, towerbridge.org.uk) is via the North Tower St Katharine Docks as they exist today opened in 1928. They were built by Telford and visitors are taken up by lift. The two walkways (now covered, and which also serve as two connected basins accessed via a lock at the entrance to the Thames. A range of as exhibiton space) afford impressive panoramic views of London; worth the entry warehouses by Philip Hardwick lined the quays so goods could be unloaded straight fee alone. London’s historic landmarks increasingly jockey for position with its new into them; the docks specialised in wine, brandy, tea, rubber, marble, ivory, sugar skyscapers. UNESCO and English Heritage are concerned that these giant edifices are and other valuable commodities. After fire damage in the Second World War, and unsympathetic and recently the World Heritage status of the Tower of London and also because modern steam and container ships were unable to enter the docks, they Westminster was called into question. After a short film in the South Tower about the finally closed as a commercial enterprise in 1968. Their redevelopment is seen as a bridge’s construction, you are transported down by stairs and lift to road level. Follow model for urban regeneration. 136 Westminster and Royal London Westminster Abbey 137

Burdett-Coutts is commemorated (right) commemorate famous scientists, 1 Churchill memorial near the west door. In the centre of the among them Charles Darwin (d. 1882; 25 2 Unknown Warrior 26 24 westminster nave, further east, is the grave of David tomb in north nave aisle) and Lord 3 Livingstone Livingstone (d. 1873) , traveller and Lister (d. 1912). Matching lozenges in (3) 4 Lord Salisbury 27 22 23 abbey missionary in Africa. Across the front the pavement honour men associated 5 Charles James Fox 6 Ben Jonson 21 of the Belfry Tower is a bronze effigy with music, including Elgar, Vaughan 7 Wilberforce Lady Chapel 30 of Lord Salisbury (d. 1903) (4). On the Williams, Britten, William Walton, 8 Purcell 20 west wall is a bust of General Gordon Adrian Boult and C.V. Stanford. In the 9 Newton 29 10 Earl Stanhope (d. 1885), the defender of Khartoum, by next bay William Wilberforce (d. 1833) 11 Sanctuary 28 Onslow Ford. Among the crowded mon- (7), one of the chief opponents of the 12 Edmund Crouchback uments is one (east side) to Viscount slave trade, and Sir Stamford Raffles 13 Aveline of Lancaster 14 Aymer de Valence 19 38 Howe (d. 1758) by Scheemakers, erected (1759–1833), founder of Singapore, 15 Anne of Cleves by the Province of Massachusetts while sit pensive in effigy above the tomb of 16 Pitt the Elder 17 Abbot Islip Chapel 37 32 it was a British colony. Henry Purcell (d. 1695) (8), composer 18 36 39 18 St John Baptist Chapel 31 33 Chapter and organist at the abbey. 19 St Paul Chapel 35 34 House North aisle: Across the head of the aisle 20 Elizabeth I 21 ?Princes in the Tower 17 12 11 is a large monument to Charles James Choir and sanctuary: The choir screen 22 Henry VII Fox (d. 1806) (5). Floor slabs com- (1834, with medieval masonry) is the 23 Ludovic Stuart 14 15 40 24 Dean Stanley 13 41 memorate Ramsay MacDonald (d. 1937), work of Edward Blore. Set into it are 42 Lloyd George (d. 1945), Ernest Bevin (d. two impressive works by Rysbrack and Visitor North Poets’ Pyx Transept Chamber 1951), Clement Attlee (d. 1967) and the Kent commemorating Sir Isaac Newton entrance Corner 16 43 and Museum noted Fabians and admirers of Soviet (d. 1727) (9) and Earl Stanhope (d. 1721) Russia Sidney and Beatrice Webb (d. (10), faithful public servant of George I. 44 1947 and 1943), who were buried here It is in the sanctuary (11), the raised at the behest of George Bernard Shaw. space within the altar rails, that coro- 8 25 Royal Air Force Chapel 7 On the wall is a monument to Campbell- nations take place. The altar screen is 26 Anne of Denmark Bannerman (d. 1908). Dean Stanley by Sir George Gilbert Scott (1867). In 27 Duke of Buckingham 45 Great 28 Countess of Lennox Cloister (Arthur Stanley, the liberal churchman front is a beautiful Cosmatesque pave- 9 10 29 Mary, Queen of Scots 46 who was Dean of Westminster from ment of 1268, signed ‘Odoricus’; it is 30 Countess of Richmond 1864–81) called this part of the abbey thought to be by the hand of a mem- 31 Shrine of Edward the Confessor 32 Philippa of Hainault ‘Whigs’ Corner’. ber of the Roman Oderisi family. The 33 Edward III In the third bay, a small stone upright original brass inlaid letters specified 34 Richard II in the wall at the bottom, inscribed ‘O its intended cosmological significance: 35 Edward I 47 36 Henry III 3 Rare Ben Johnson’ [sic], marks the grave ‘Sphaericus archetypum globus hic mon- 37 Eleanor of Castile 6 of the dramatist and poet Ben Jonson strat macrocosmum’ (This round sphere 38 St Nicholas Chapel (d. 1637) . The memorial was made, represents a model of the universe): an 39 SS Edmund and Thomas Chapel (6) 40 Chaucer according to John Aubrey, ‘at the charge appropriate place for the coronation 41 Milton 2 48 of Jack Young (afterwards knighted) and anointing of a temporal sovereign. 42 Shakespeare 5 49 43 Duke of Argyll 4 who, walking there when the grave was On the left are three beautiful archi- 44 Thos. Richardson 1 50 covering, gave the fellow eighteen pence tectural tombs, dating from between c. 45 Thos. Thynne to cut it.’ 1298 and 1325. Buried within them are 46 John André 47 George Wade Jerusalem Chamber The north choir aisle has fine exam- Edmund ‘Crouchback’ Plantagenet, Earl 48 Abbot’s Pew ples of early heraldry on the wall. A of Lancaster (d. 1296) (12), second son 49 Portrait of Richard II series of medallions under the organ of Henry III and founder of the House 50 St George Chapel 212 Piccadilly Circus, St James’s and Mayfair The Royal Academy of Arts 213

the royal academy of arts

Map p. 603, E1. Underground: Green Park, Piccadilly Circus. Open daily 10–6 (until 10pm on Fri). Free guided tours of the Fine Rooms Tues–Fri 1pm. T: 020 7300 8000; royalacademy.org.uk. Admission charge. Restaurant/café.

Founded in 1768 under the patronage of George III, with the distinguished portraitist Sir Joshua Reynolds as its first President, the Royal Academy’s aim was—and still is— the promotion of art and design through its teaching Schools, its Summer Exhibition of contemporary British work (an annual event since 1769) and via the staging of international loan exhibitions. It is for the last that the Royal Academy (RA) is perhaps best burlington house known today, being one of the principal venues in London for major national and international shows. The RA has always been a self-governing institution, its President elected from its Burlington House body of Academicians (RAs) composed, since the 18th century, of leading painters, The present building, largely the work of Sydney Smirke (1866–76), encases a much sculptors and architects and, from the 19th century, engravers. As well as Reynolds, older one, begun c. 1664 by Sir John Denham, then bought and completed in 1668 by past Presidents include great figures such as Benjamin West, Sir Thomas Lawrence, the 1st Earl of Burlington. It was one of London’s foremost private mansions. In the Lord Leighton, Sir Edwin Lutyens and Sir Hugh Casson. early 18th century it underwent radical alterations: first by James Gibbs for Juliana, Duchess of Burlington; and in 1717–20 by Colen Campbell for the Duchess’ son, the sir joshua reynolds famous promoter of Palladianism, the 3rd Earl of Burlington (see Chiswick House, p. Joshua Reynolds (1723–92), the son of a Devon schoolmaster, was one of the pre- 476). The current façade, which faces you as you pass through the central archway, eminent society portraitists of his generation, first President of the Royal Academy has Campbell’s Palladian ground and first storeys and Smirke’s third storey, a heavy of Arts and ‘founder of the British School of Painting’. While on a tour of Italy as a addition with niches containing statues of British and Italian Renaissance paint- young man, he had beheld with awe the works of Michelangelo, Raphael and Titian ers and sculptors. The wings creating the courtyard, by Banks and Barry in Italian and returned home with the aim of raising the status of the artist in Britain. Renaissance style (1868–73), house learned societies: to the left, the Linnaean Society, Reynolds had a competitive relationship with other painters. He was more at home Royal Astronomical Society and Society of Antiquaries; to the right, the Royal Society with men from outside his field, the lexicographer Samuel Johnson and actor David of Chemistry and the Geological Society. The pleasant fountain jets in the centre of the Garrick among them. Indeed, he belonged, along with Johnson, to The Club, a group courtyard are placed, apparently, according to Reynolds’ horoscope. of a dozen or so men who met for supper and conversation at the Turk’s Head Tavern in Gerrard Street, Soho. Entrance hall Apart from his prolific output of pictures, Reynolds has left us hisDiscourses on Art The low-ceilinged entrance hall (ticket office), remodelled in 1899, contains ceiling (15 in total), which were mostly given by him at the annual prize-giving ceremony at paintings by West (in the centre, The Graces Unveiling Nature, with the Four Elements the RA. They are more a series of occasional essays than a coherent theory, touching around it) and roundels by Angelica Kauffmann Composition( , Design, Painting and on subjects ranging from colouring and the life model to art education and the work Invention) removed from the RA’s old meeting room in Somerset House on the Strand. of Gainsborough. Not a good speaker, he was inaudible to many who attended his The central grand staircase by Samuel Ware (1815–18) leads to the Main Galleries. lectures, and those who could understand him did not always like what they heard— Behind, past Sebastiano Ricci’s grand Baroque paintings (The Triumph of Galatea and or read: William Blake notoriously wrote on his copy of the Discourses, ‘This Man was Diana and her Nymphs; c. 1712–15) and Kent’s ceiling roundel of Architecture with the Hired to Depress Art’. portrait of Inigo Jones (c. 1720), are the Fine Rooms (see below). Reynolds’s chief inspiration came from the Old Masters of Italy. His final remark to the RA was: ‘And I should desire that the last words which I should pronounce to The Main Galleries and Fine Rooms this Academy, and from this place, might be the name—Michael Angelo.’ Suffering Smirke’s Main Galleries consist of a central octagonal hall giving onto a succession from loss of sight and acute deafness (a silver ear-trumpet was never far from his of large, grand spaces. These galleries have witnessed spectacular crowds, especially side), he died at the age of 69. He is buried in St Paul’s Cathedral. in the 1880s and ’90s during Leighton’s successful presidency, when 350–400,000