Locale Profile: Rock N Rye American Bar

On Saturday I headed to Rock N Rye on Atwells in Federal Hill to check it out and grab a few drinks. Formerly the location of the Grande French restaurant, Rock N Rye has taken the space and turned it into an old-fashioned bar. The Grande’s menu featured items like $500 bottles of champagne and $70 plates of chicken. Rock N Rye is pretty much the complete opposite of that, but not in a bad way.

This place all about being located in America. It’s so American, in fact, that the official name is Rock N Rye American Bar, and they have a country music night every week. With all this jingoistic lead-up, I was fully expecting it to be as in-your-face patriotic as Toby Keith. But the America-ness actually isn’t too overwhelming, and this place was definitely classier than I anticipated.

Rock N Rye goes for an interesting mix of high culture and pop culture. The playlist had everything from Bob Marley to house music, and chandeliers give the bar low lighting. Your eye is immediately drawn to two huge framed photos next to the door, one of Nirvana and one of Mike Tyson dressed up like a king. What’s more American than that? And pictured above the bar are enduring symbols of America like Eminem, Debbie Harry, the Stepbrothers guys, and the Prince of Providence himself, Buddy Cianci (although the pictures of Zeppelin David Bowie are a little suspect).

For entertainment, there are a two TVs in the dining area, which were set to Comcast Sports Network and Berry Gordy’s The Last Dragon, or to be more specific, the ending to The Last Dragon, then the DVD menu for a half hour, then the beginning of The Last Dragon.

Rock N Rye has a pretty solid drink menu, and you won’t need a credit limit to get a buzz on. The drink offerings include six drafts like Yuengling, Dogfish Head 60 minute IPA, and Brooklyn Lager, and some bottles and cans. They also have a menu with an impressive list of hot dogs including the Vinny Paz (Rhode Island style), the Trent Reznor, and the Kanye (a Dog with tomato and a pickle), all affordable, and a few equally affordable burgers. I tried the nachos, and they were spot-on.

But the centerpiece of the place seems to be their cocktail list, which is anchored by “The Famous Grande Xampagneria” (champagne, peach liqueur, triple sec, and orange juice), but also includes drinks like the “House of Pain Killer,” the “Gin Blossom,” and the “Hot for Teacher.”

Whether it’s the pregame spot or the destination, it’s a pretty affordable unpretentious spot, but don’t expect the type of service you may have received at The Grande. If your veins need a dose of the ol’ red, white, and blue without breaking the bank, a trip to Rock N Rye could be in order.

Rock N Rye, 224 Atwells Ave, Providence

Locale Profile: The Salted Slate

The new kid on the Wayland Square block, The Salted Slate, opened its doors in July. Occupying the former Farmstead location on Wayland Avenue and with Chef Ben Lloyd at its helm (a 10-year veteran of the Providence culinary scene), The Salted Slate’s menu reads like a who’s who of fabulous local producers and a what’s what of homemade delights.

I’ve been lucky enough to sample their brunch menu previously (FYI: it’s all about that chubby duckling), but heading out for dinner I couldn’t wait to try the evening offering.

The space is beautiful; I hadn’t been to the space in it’s former incarnation so couldn’t directly comment on the changes, but the final result is wonderful. The warm wooden floors and neutral walls are a natural-toned backdrop to the soapstone bar, chunky high tops on industrial metal stands and (surprisingly comfortable!) high-backed vintage-style barstools.

Awash with candlelight and adorned with eclectic seasonal flowers, the space feels honest, warm and incredibly welcoming.

We sat to the left of the bar, which, having sat at the section to the right of the bar for brunch, I have to say I prefer. Rather than the vintage, industrial-style high tops and stools, the area to the right of the open-shelved bar backdrop hosts traditional style tables and chairs. Should I have been visiting with family this would be ideal, but as a young couple our bar side location was spot on for us!

Having glanced over the menu prior to arriving, because obviously, I was really excited to try some of the sharing dishes. Normally the idea of sharing food brings me out in a rash. I’m fiercely protective of my portions and have only just started letting my husband nibble things from my plate. We’ve been together eight years. Sharing dishes, to me, should in fact be dishes you can actually share. There’s nothing worse than a menu extorting the virtues of its sharing menu, only to have some tiny little thing arrive. My hunter-gather instincts kick in and the red mist of food claiming frenzy descend.

Sharing dishes are supposed to evoke feelings of piled plentifully high and apportioned with gay abandon. The Mac and Cheese and Waygu Meat Balls did just that, with options on portions size depending on your appetite and ability to share, these two were the first dishes we knew would end up in our tummies.

Wanting to test the slate for its integrity when it comes to local ingredients and homemade produce, we also ordered the Blackbird Farm Tartar and their [Our] Own Ricotta.

The comfortable atmosphere made the wait for the food zip by, a gentle hum of good conversation wafting from tables packed with friends, couples and families, the dusk outside turning the space into a glowing hub on Wayland Avenue.

The space is one that I would happily bring anyone to, be it an easy afterwork drink with colleagues, showing off the city to visiting family or, as we were that evening, on a date with someone you really, really fancy.

Our starters arrived, quite aptly, on great organic rectangles of natural slate, seasoned with cloudy crystalline flakes of sea salt. Rather than a nod at its moniker, this was out and out whiplash; however, far from feeling gimmicky, the simplicity of the components and of the restaurant’s name itself made its presence subtly whimsical and raised a smile from us both.

Topped with a plump, bright quail egg, the Blackbird Farm Tartar looked incredibly impressive, the soft, tender beef delivering a buttery, rich flavor, pricked here and there with tastebud-waking pinches of sharp caper. The accompanying giant potato crisps, cooked to a dark brown, were earthy with a satisfying and substantial crunch.

As a contrast to the richness of the tartar, the Our Own Ricotta was light and sweet, creamy but not heavy. Its artichoke pesto partner was zingy and fresh, the pair sitting atop the home-baked sun-dried ciabatta slices beautifully.

The portions were generous, something I find can be lacking when the ingredients are of such high quality and the craftsmanship so invested, but not so that we had that stab of regret over the imminent arrival of our entrees.

We didn’t have to wait long for the heaping pile of Waygu , sat in a rich puddle of taleggio polenta, and the piping hot plate of Mac and Cheese in the form of bacon and four-cheese-stuffed jumbo shells to arrive.

We opted for the smaller versions of each so as to allow for maximum taste testing. I did it all for you dear readers, honest. The presentation of the meatballs atop a handled wooden board made for easy sharing; the taste, however, did not. The minute that Waygu passed my lips I knew I would struggle to share.

Rich and meaty, with a wholesome texture, those meatballs certainly lived up to the standard their Japanese provenance set. You could be forgiven for worrying that a was not the place for such a cut of meat, but their form did nothing but make me want to make balls a much bigger part of my life.

The Mac and Cheese was what mac and cheese for grown-ups should look like. Bold with its four cheese stuffing and seasoned perfectly by the crisp bacon, this was not your average mac.

Whilst the clean, fresh flavors of our two incredible appetizers were delicious, I find myself more impressed by the skill it takes to elevate the time old classics of meatballs and mac and cheese to a level of excellence Chef Lloyd has. To so do while retaining the comfort food style and not deconstructing it to oblivion is even more impressive.

Our meal was topped off with a battle of forks over Nanny’s Pineapple Cake, served alongside a not overly sweet burnt sugar ice cream, and seasonal pear and ginger chutney.

The Salted Slate has done a storming job of shooting up my list of ‘must visits’ in Providence. With its easy atmosphere, honest menu filled with ingredients of exceptional provenance and quality, plus a check so reasonable I feared we were doing a dine and dash, I’m steadfastly the slate’s newest and biggest fan.

186 Wayland Avenue, Providence. 401-270 3737, saltedslate.com

Gracie’s Continues its Star Chef’s Dinner

Gracie’s in Providence will host a Star Chef’s Dinner Monday, October 20, featuring Chef Taylor Knapp. Gracie’s Star Chef Series began in 2007 and has been a great success, inviting chefs from all over to come share their craft with the Providence community.

Gracie’s will welcome Chef Taylor Knapp from First and South in Greenport, New York, who is known for his dedication to fresh ingredients and new ideas. He’s often found with wet shoes from foraging for seaweed or black-walnut-stained fingertips. Gracie’s says that the chef asks us to “think about what we’re eating, where it comes from, and the history behind the ingredients.” He believes that food “should be given as though it were a gift, prepared with care, love, and thought, just as you would prepare a meal for a loved one. Slow down. Simplify. Focus on the things we’re putting on the plate.” Knap will soon open Peconic Escargot, the only domestic escargot greenhouse and source of fresh escargot in the United States.

The event will involve fresh canapés, a five-course tasting menu and a wine menu provided by the Savory Grape in East Greenwich. The dinner will feature fresh ingredients from the Eastern end of Long Island as well as Rhode Island’s local resources. Tickets can be purchased by calling Gracie’s at 401-272-7811 or email [email protected].

Seasonal Recipes for October

Fall is certainly in the offing, with chilly nights and crisp days fast becoming a meteorological norm.

October heralds the full force of the apple and pear season plus the readiness of beautiful shelling beans such as borlotti (also known as cranberry) and butter (also known as lima). Beautiful roots such as the sweet, aromatic parsnip also make their debut, doing so well as a sweet or savory ingredient.

My recipes in October start to have have touches of warming spices and chili heat, some rich sweet hints nestling well with a lovely cup of tea or warm cider! To find more seasonal recipes and bakes, pop on over to hollylikestocook.com.

Apple and Pear Chips

I love playing with the perceptions of sweet and savory. These fruit chips are the perfect example of my love of playful flavors. Doused with a little crunch of sea salt, these fruity chips are lovely alongside cheese — the apples with some sharp, crumbly cheddar and the pears crying out for a strong blue. Apple

Pear

Sea salt

Each fruit yields about 10 chips. You can make a large batch and store them (once completely cooled) in an airtight container for future autumnal evening nibbles.

Use a mandolin or sharp knife to finely slice the fruits into slices about a tenth of an inch thick. You can core the fruit before slicing but, honestly, at this thickness you won’t notice the core, just pop out the pips.

Lay out on baking tray lined with waxed paper and sprinkle with coarse sea salt.

Bake at 300F for about an hour, turning half way through to get an even bake. When golden brown, remove from the oven and pull from the baking sheet to cool so that they don’t steam against the paper and go soggy.

Parsnip and Chai Spice Cake

Chai is well known among the seasonal latte drinkers, its sweet spiced aroma evoking undeniably comforting feelings.

A twist on the traditional carrot cake, the parsnip substitute in this recipe adds another aromatic dimension.

Cake

1 cup margarine/shortening

1 & 1/4 cup light brown sugar

4 eggs, beaten

1 & 2/3 cup all purpose flour, sifted

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 cup finely grated parsnip

1 cup chopped walnuts

1/2 cup sultanas

1 orange, juice and zest

1 chai spice tea bag

Syrup 1 cup water

1 chai spice tea bag

1/2 cup white sugar

Icing

3/4 cup salted butter, softened at room temperature

1 & 1/4 cup confectioners sugar

Zest of 1 orange

Handful walnut halves

Pre-heat the oven to 365F.

Zest the orange, and roll the orange around on a hard surface to release the juice within before cutting and squeezing the juice into a mug with the zest.

Pop the chai spice tea bag into the juice and warm it in the microwave for 30 seconds, or on the hob very gently, until the juice is warm but not too hot to touch. Leave the tea to steep in the juice and flavor it with the spices.

Cream together the margarine/shortening and sugar until light and fluffy, then add in the remaining ingredients. Fold together gently until well combined.

Line two round 9-inch baking tins and pour in the batter. Bake in the pre-heated oven until golden brown atop and set within. Check with a thin by piercing the thickest part of the cake. If the skewer comes out of the cake clean, it is done.

Set aside to cool.

In a small sauce pan, combine the water and white sugar, add the chai spice tea bag and bring to a boil. Once boiled, turn down the heat, remove the tea bag (give it a good squeeze first) and allow it to simmer until the syrup has reduced by half. Turn off the heat and leave to cool.

When the cakes have cooled and the syrup is not hot but just warm, return the cakes to their tins, pierce each cake with a thin skewer 10 to 12 times and pour over half of the syrup. Leave to soak in and cool completely.

Make the icing by creaming together the butter and confectioners sugar until fluffy and pale, drizzle in the completely cold remaining syrup little by little, whipping until combined.

Once the cakes are completely cooled, dollop half of the icing into the top of one cake and spread over, place the second cake atop, then cover with the remaining icing. To finish, crush a handful of walnut halves by hand over the top.

Smashed Shelling Bean Dip There is no denying that hummus is among dip royalty. This dip uses lovely season shelling beans for its body and has an herby, spicy zing.

Beans are an incredibly tasty, affordable source of protein, which makes this dip a fab standby recipe for autumnal entertaining.

1 & 2/3 cup cooked and cooled (or tinned) borlotti/cranberry beans

1 & 2/3 cup cooked and cooled (or tinned) butter/lima beans

Small bunch fresh cilantro

Dried chili flakes, to taste

3 tablespoons sesame seeds

2 cloves garlic

3 tablespoons lemon juice

A few generous glugs of olive oil

Salt and pepper

If you are using fresh beans, they will need to be cooked and cooled first. Fresh beans straight from their pods take about 40 minutes to an hour of simmering to become tender. This will entirely depend on your bean, the time of the season, the amount of beans, your star sign… It’s best to prepare your beans ahead of time. Otherwise this simple dish will take a rather lot longer than a simple whizzing.

If you are using dried beans, they will need an overnight soaking before cooking. Allow more time!

The other option is to use tinned beans. I know this somewhat defeats the idea of this being a seasonal recipe, however tinned beans are always available and give the opportunity to simply and quickly try out this recipe before committing the time to make the more involved version.

Once your beans are prepared and cooled (or your tin has been opened and your beans drained) pile into a shallow dish with chopped cilantro and chili flakes (start with a quarter of a teaspoon then add more to taste when it’s been smashed together).

Finely chop the garlic and fry in a little oil on a low heat, just to take the very sharp edge out of it. When the garlic has soften a is slightly golden, add the sesame seeds and turn off the heat. Turn the seeds in the residual heat of the pan for a few moments then pour into a pestle and mortar. The heat of the pan will have softened the seeds enough to make then easier to smash them into a paste in the pestle with the garlic.

Add the sesame garlic paste to the beans, a couple of glugs of olive oil and the lemon juice. Use a potato masher to smash the beans into a lumpy paste, keep some whole beans and half beans amongst the smash to add some lovely chunky texture. Add a little more oil if you prefer a looser dip, though this is meant to be a really meaty, chunky recipe so don’t blitz it into oblivion! Season with salt, pepper and chili to taste, then serve up with some lovely crispy flat bread crackers or mini crostini.

Opened/Closed

We’re kicking this month’s openings off with yet another spot on 800 Allens Ave. Formerly Cactus Grille, The Barstow, and Cafe Ole within an 8-month span, the spot now welcomes Brass Monkey, an American-fare, bar-centric, more casual eatery than its predecessors. Fourth time’s a charm. In other much anticipated PVD food news, Pizza J, Julians on Broadway’s sister pizza place, is just about to open. For the central RI pizza lovers, Wescott House has opened in Coventry serving up pizzas in-house and to go along with a full bar and other pub grub. Keeping in the realm of bar food, Barrett’s Ale House opened its second location in Attleboro. On the upscale side of nightlife, ROCKnRYE has moved into The Grande’s old location on The Hill offering up the kind of class you’d expect on Atwells Ave. with an alternative, House of Blues-esque flare. After keeping its doors shut for about half the year, The Sunnyside in Warren finally re-opened as Simone’s. The former breakfast dive is revamping its menu with dinner service as well.

[closed]

This month we say goodbye to another Federal Hill spot, Romeo’s Kitchen and Cocktails. Taste Trekker’s 2014: The Culinary Tourist’s Delight

Do you want to learn about the best wine pairings in Spain? Experience the flavors of Miami? Explore the geography of Greek food — all while savoring delectable samples and listening to international experts share their knowledge (in lovely foreign accents)? Then you won’t want to miss Taste Trekkers 2014 Food Expo coming to Providence October 3 – 5. It will be the chef’s, the foodie’s, the culinary tourist’s weekend delight.

I’d never heard of a “culinary tourist” until I spoke with Seth Resler, the mastermind behind Taste Trekkers 2014 and creator of the nation’s first food tourism conference, and realized I AM one. I’ll illustrate with an example.

The other day I was talking to my supervisor after work, and the topic of gelato came up. Without hesitation, I started recounting my all-time favorite flavors, beginning with Rhode Island hotspots and moving to international bests: Amarena Cherry in London on the West End; Hokey Pokey (a Kiwi original) from a place called Lick in New Zealand; and Panna Semifreddo from a tiny shop in Bassano del Grappa, Italy. After a moment’s pause, my supervisor said, “How do you remember all of this? I can barely remember what I ate last week.”

This obsession I have with food (and gelato) and traveling the world to eat it is what defines the culinary tourist. Apparently there are other people in this world who plan their vacations around where they want to eat — a special breed of foodies. But every foodie has his way. As Resler pointed out, “There are two types of foodies: those who cook, and those who dine.” This conference will satiate every foodie’s appetite, and anyone who’s interested in preparing food, eating food, or traveling to eat food won’t want to miss it.

Here’s the line-up:

October 3: Industry Day (sold out). This is for professionals (e.g., beer brewers, culinary students, food tour operators, chefs, food bloggers) to learn the ins and outs of the food tourism industry. Panel discussion and mini-talks fill the afternoon, and a networking cocktail reception follows at The Dorrance (a great choice for cocktails, if I might add).

October 4: Foodie Day! This is the day to remember! Log it into your calendars right now. There will be food. There will be passion. There will be wine. This main event takes place at the Biltmore Hotel in downtown Providence and is open to the public. The morning is divided into three rounds of “Edible Sessions,” where experts will guide you on specialty cuisines, and you’ll get to sample them while learning about the history and traditions that surround them. And there are SO. MANY. OPTIONS. New Zealand, Peru, Greece, Spain, Cape Cod, Vermont, Maine, honeys, wines, lamb, ham, breads, pizza, cheese. To reserve a spot in your preferred session, purchase tickets in advance ($50; $65 at the door).

Following the sessions, everyone will reconvene to feast on dozens of food and drink samples from local restaurants. And if you’re anything like me (that person who insists on snapping pictures of her food), photos are encouraged! Tweet your favorites using #2014TTExpo. The day ends with extended hours at JWU’s Culinary Arts Museum. Oct 5: Downcity Scavenger Hunt: Snap selfies at all the correct locations to win hundreds of dollars worth of prizes. Meet at noon at the Providence Arcade and grab a list, a group of friends and a camera to try to be the first to win. Prizes will be announced after a special showing of Farm-City, State at the Cable Car Cinema.

If you’re wondering, “Why Providence?” one good reason was that it was voted the #1 City for Food/Drink/Restaurants in America by Travel + Leisure in 2012. I also learned some history surrounding the event from Resler, whose name and voice you might recognize from his days at 95.5 WBRU. He’s a 1999 Brown graduate who created the social dining group, “Mystery Meet,” in Boston four years ago. It began as a flash-mob-meets-dinner-party and turned into a nationwide social gathering for adventurous foodies. (Strangers who share a love of food sign up to dine, but they aren’t given the location until 24 hours in advance, hence the “mystery” of the “meet.”) From there, Seth started the “Find Dining Podcast,” an interview series featuring chefs and food bloggers from St. Louis to Greece, helping listeners find the best places to experience local culture through local cuisine. He believes there’s an importance to understanding food within a place, and how that place shapes and informs food. This concept is evident in his execution of Taste Trekkers, which combines eating with informative, expert-led sessions.

I asked Seth if he’s always been so fond of food, and his answer involved a different kind of love. “I once dated a foodie. Her family would get together just to talk about food, and I was baffled. I had always been good at eating food, but not talking about it. I realized this is a passion for people, and I’ve always been interested in people who view what they do as an art.”

From master chefs to food bloggers to gelato enthusiasts, passion will meet pleasure at Taste Trekkers 2014.

To purchase tickets and find out more information, visit Tastetrekkers.com.

Locale Profile: Table – You’ll Definitely Want a Seat at This One Last week I headed to Barrington to profile the new restaurant Crepelicious. To my dismay (and a product of my clear lack of preparation), Crepelicious is nothing more than a “coming soon” sign and a partially empty building. Disappointed, I drove through the town in search of some good eats. As I passed the fairly new Coastal Commons Plaza, I spotted a sign that read Table. Was this a store selling expensive sporks and holiday linens, or a new dining option in the East Bay? As we pulled into the parking lot I noticed some outdoor seating. Now this looked promising.

From the moment we walked in the door, I knew I stumbled upon something special. The restaurant is quite small, giving it the feeling that you’re eating in someone’s home. In the center of the room is a large table that seats about 10, which is used for either large parties, or smaller parties that don’t mind getting friendly. Around the perimeter is some bench seating, along with a couple of four-tops. Like I said, this place is small.

The décor is rustic-modern with lots of reclaimed wood and retro light fixtures – very homey and comfortable. Our server handed us the lunch menu, which had a handful of thoughtful items. Following the farm to table trend, this restaurant offers only fresh, local ingredients. The menu, therefore, changes often to accommodate the flavors of the seasons and the chef’s whim. We lucked out and got the end of summer menu.

After commenting on the attractiveness of the waiter no less than five times, my dining companion ordered the open-faced chicken salad with cranberries and walnuts on multi-grain bread. I opted for the burger: pimento cheese, fried green tomatoes and greens served on a buttery brioche bun with pomme frittes and homemade ketchup. This was no ordinary lunch. Every item was spectacularly delicious. The burger, though messy, was juicy and flavorful; not at all overshadowed by its condiments. The chicken salad was fresh and delicious, as was the locally made multi-grain bread. For dessert we tried the coconut blueberry pot de crème. If you’re in the mood for something sweet, this probably isn’t be the best choice, as the flavors are subtle. I, however, can’t resist anything with coconut and loved every bite.

After lunch we chatted with the restaurant’s friendly proprietor, Claude Lochet. Table opened for business almost a year ago and is developing quite a local following (evidenced by the lunch crowd, all of whom seemed to know Claude by name). In addition to serving lunch and dinner, the restaurant occasionally hosts wine dinners and private events. As we perused the full menu, he urged us to return and give dinner a try. I looked around this wonderful place and thought to myself, “Fantastic food, cozy, inviting ambience, and some decent eye candy? Of course I’ll be back!” The unique dining experience that Table offers makes the drive to Barrington worthwhile, even for a Rhode Island native.

Table is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday. Dinner reservations are highly recommended so make sure to call ahead, especially on the weekends. 8 Anoka Ave., Barrington.

Flavors of Fall

It might not quite feel like fall, but the beginning of September heralds our autumnal arrival. I love September. Whether it’s the geeky girl in me who loves those ‘back to school’ trips to Staples or the redhead who’s totally over sunburn, September has always been my favorite month.

Each new page on the cook’s calendar brings new ripening vegetables and fruits, and September also marks the start of a new season. That’s when the newly available produce gets really exciting. The sweet, light flavors of summer are starting to peter out and the earthy, wholesome ones of fall are beginning to sneak their way onto menus. While not completely in comfort food mode yet, it’s lovely to be able to start including some rich, warm flavors in my cooking. Here are some of my favorite early autumn, September recipes:

Celeriac Mash Will generously serve 2 or modestly serve 4

This ugly root might not scream tasty when you see its gnarled, hairy sprouts tangling at the bottom of the muddy white bulb, but it’s a seriously tasty little chap.

1 celeriac – an average 1-1½ lb. root yields about 1 cup when peeled and chopped drizzle of olive oil 1/4 cup butter 1/2 cup half and half 1 teaspoon of horseradish – either fresh grated or the creamed condiment variety salt and pepper

Use a sharp knife to cut away the tangle of fiddly roots at the bottom of the celeriac, then again to peel away the rough skin.

Cut into rough chunks about a inch cubed, toss in olive oil in a baking dish and season with salt and pepper.

Roast in the oven at 390 degrees Fahrenheit for 25 minutes, shaking the pan after about 10 minutes to free them from sticking to the pan and re-coating them in the oil.

At the end of the cooking time, check to see that they are very tender to the touch with lightly browned edges. Tumble the cooked cubes into a food processor and add in the butter, half and half, and horseradish.

Blend into a smooth paste then season with more salt and pepper to taste.

This sweet, creamy mash goes really well with simple roasted chicken thighs, rubbed with a little garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper.

Endive, Grape, Goat Cheese and Honey Salad Ingredients listed are per person, multiply as needed

The slightly bitter, crunchy endive is a great base for the salty goat cheese with the sweet honey and grapes. This is a great salad that uses seasonal produce in a light, late-summer way.

1 belgian endive 1 oz. goat cheese 6 red grapes 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon honey salt and pepper

Prepare the endive by chopping off the stalk end and clicking the leaves away from the center. Though relatively ridged, they will crack, so try and keep the leaves intact as they create lovely natural bowls for the cheese crumbles and dressing.

Slice the grapes length-ways and arrange over the endive. Crumble over the goat cheese then drizzle over the honey.

Dress the salad with a simple dressing of the mixed oil and vinegar, then season with salt and pepper.

A great start to a heavier meal, the endive gives a robust base to the salad while the grapes keep the salad light and fresh.

Sunchoke and Cashew Soup Serves 4

Also called Jerusalem artichokes, this sunchoke soup is made deliciously creamy by the addition of raw cashew nuts.

3 cups sunchokes 4 cloves garlic 1 medium white onion 1½ cups raw cashew nuts 4 cups of chicken or vegetable stock olive oil salt and pepper

Scrub the chokes with a medium bristled brush to remove any dirt and rough patches of skin, then chop them in half. Cut any especially large chokes into quarters so that they are all equally about an inch cubed.

Toss the chokes in olive oil, salt and pepper, and tumble into a baking dish along with the peeled garlic cloves.

Roast at 390 degrees Fahrenheit for about 25 minutes or until tender.

Dice the onion and fry in a little oil in a large stock pot for about 10 minutes on a low heat until the onion is meltingly soft and unctuous. Use a low heat to keep the onion from browning; this will keep the flavor mellow and sweet.

When the sunchokes are tender, pour them, the roasted garlic and any pan oils into the stock pot with the onions. Add the stock and raw cashews, then bring to a high simmer for 10 minutes.

Use a stick blender to puree everything into a thick creamy soup.

Serve with a blob of creme fraiche or sour cream, a drizzle of oil and some fresh parsley as a tasty autumn lunch. Opened/Closed

[opened]

Fox Point’s beloved pizza joint, Fellini Pizzeria, just opened a second location in Pawtuxet Village, Cranston. Those on the other side of the bay no longer need to venture to Prov for their French fix — Crepelicious has arrived in Barrington serving up decedent crepe-themed desserts. A new cafe just opened on Federal Hill — Enoteca Umberto, meaning “wine library,” and is delivering on its claim with a wide selection of vinos in a small, classic, Italian-style bistro. Federal Hill is also seeing the opening of a casual, authentic Mexican cocina with Letty’s. New Bedford also has two openings this month. Ming Sushi, one of NB’s few sushi joints, is BYOB with an “All you can eat” special: bottomless menu items for a fixed price. Sold. NB’s waterfront is welcoming the appropriately named The Black Whale, boasting high-end cocktails and seafood. Barrett’s Alehouse opened in North Attleborough, serving up casual bar fare. Crosby’s Cafe, formerly Village Cafe, is East Greenwich’s latest addition, located off Main St. Tapas bars have been on the rise in RI since the spring. Another opened, this time in North Smithfield. Spark Grill and Tapas Bar offers small American fare plates, and now, a weekend comedy show. Only one opening in Newport this month. Parlor Bar and Kitchen is bringing the high-end menu we expect from Npt with a modern, comfortable atmosphere.

[closed]

The Cheese Plate in Warren has closed, potentially temporarily. It is rumored that it will re-open after changing ownership. This will be the fourth time it’s changed hands since its open last spring.

A Newcomer’s Amble Through Providence’s Finest

“This Friday my husband and the kids are out of town, so girls’ night is happening. Where can we go in Providence?”

This was the call I received from my friend who rescued me when I needed to know the go-to bars in her town of Warren, and now it was time for me to return the favor. She and another friend, also a Warren resident, wanted to hit the downtown streets of Providence, but didn’t know where to begin. I somehow became the knowledgeable expert, and even though I am a newcomer to Providence myself, I knew immediately where we should start.

The Eddy.

I developed a fondness for true mixology when I spent time in New Zealand watching UK-born bartenders muddle, swirl and shake fresh ingredients into masterpieces with the concentration and precision of artists. The closest recreation I have seen of this art form is at The Eddy. We arrived just before 9pm, having parked far enough away that I required Google Maps to get me back to Eddy Street, but we found the bar just off of Westminster, an unlit sign marking its location. The Eddy doesn’t need neon lights and fanfare because those who know of it are devoted fans, and they bring others, almost like initiation into a secret society.

The inside is small: four tables nestled near the front window, two hidden cubicles in the back, and a line of bar stools around the main attraction. The magic comes from watching the bartenders, so I suggested we sit at the bar, but there were only two empty seats. The other patrons, seeing our predicament, parted like the Red Sea to allow the three of us to sit together. We immediately felt a sense of camaraderie with our neighbors.

We were given tall glasses of water while we decided on cocktails. I ordered an Orange Julius Caesar, a frothy white rum drink that had less sugar and more elegance than its frozen namesake; Sarah ordered the House Punch!, a drink that was a good as its exclamation point suggested; and Carol ordered the Bartender’s Choice, a customized drink created from the bartender’s expertise.

“What do you like?” he asked.

“Not gin,” she replied. “Something summery and fruity, but not too sweet.”

“How about vodka?”

Approved. The result was something delicious.

Having overheard her distrust of gin, the couple sitting next to Carol made it their mission to convert her. Meanwhile, a Ukrainian man next to Sarah offered to read her palm and predicted she was an exotic dancer (“close … I’m a gym instructor and stay-at-home mother”). I joined in with the pro-gin argument, and after some convincing, Carol decided to try a gin drink, but the bartender modified it with his own ingredients, saying “Be careful; it’s boozy.” Operation success: Carol is now a gin believer. The cocktail was cucumber-y and refreshing (we all tried it), and we concurred: the man knows what he’s doing.

Our next stop, at the bartender’s suggestion, was the Rooftop Bar, around the corner and up the Providence G’s elevator. As soon as the doors opened, we were transported to a Vegas-like atmosphere: a glass canopy in the center, couches and high tops along the periphery, twinkling city lights, loud conversations, slinky dresses and suits. “Where ARE we?” I asked. If The Eddy was a secret society, the Rooftop Bar was a secret clubhouse for the cool kids.

We stood at the bar waiting to be served. The couple in front of us recommended drinks while the guy behind us drunkenly cursed about the service. I got something that tasted like a Pina Colada on the rocks, with the ratio of juice to alcohol largely skewed. At a whopping $42 price tag for three drinks, we wandered toward the edge of the rooftop to enjoy the view we paid for. When a couch opened up, we swooped in. After we poached the cushions, another girl wobbled over and pilfered what was left of a champagne bottle. It was time to move on.

Congress — the tavern, not the congressional body — was the place to end the night. It’s the epitome of an American pub: $5 beers and an easygoing crowd. We relaxed at an empty table, from which we admired a cute guy wearing a knit hat and carrying a man purse (definitely not Rooftop dress-code), and we discussed our evening. “It was a lot of fun, but this is the kind of place I feel most comfortable,” said Sarah, voicing all of our opinions. We sighed, happy yet fatigued, and decided to forego the dance club around the corner and head back to the car.

As we walked, we dreamed of cheap pizza, and behold: across the street from our car was a pizza-by- the-slice joint. We took our paper plates outside and rested against a cinderblock wall. First a police horse trotted by, then a gang of bikers. They waved. We waved back.

“Welcome to Providence,” I said, “where things get real after 11pm.”