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High Levels of Free Radicals in Suncare Products Induce Acne Aestivalis in Sensitive Subjects

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High Levels of Free Radicals in Suncare Products Induce Acne Aestivalis in Sensitive Subjects personal care | sun care High Levels of Free Radicals in Suncare Products Induce Acne Aestivalis in Sensitive Subjects K. Jung*, U. Heinrich**, H. Tronnier**, M. Schnyder***, B. Herzog***, T. Herrling* PROOF READ VERSION ONLY abstract he market segment of suncare products for protection of sensitive skin against photodermatosis is growing. Specifically, pro- Ttection against Acne aestivalis (“Mallorca-Acne”) is perceived as a strong claim for this product category. There is evidence that peroxide free radicals, deriving from certain formulation components, are involved in the induction of photo-toxic skin reactions. These UV-induced free radicals can be assessed by an ESR-based method called Radical Potential (RP), by exposing formulations to UV radiation. The aim of this study was to find a correlation between the amount of UV inducible peroxides of sunscreen products and the clinical symptoms of Acne aestivalis. Two sunscreen formulas (SPF 30) containing organic UV-filters only, with an identical protection in the UV B region and a comparable protection in the UV A spectral range, have been pro- duced. For both formulations the amount of UV-inducible free radicals was assessed by the RP (Radical Potential). In addition, both formulas were tested in a clinical study with subjects with a history of Acne aestivalis. Very different RP values (levels of UV-induced free radicals) and completely different skin reactivity have been obtained, where an excellent correlation between the in vitro-parameter (RP) and the clinical symptoms could be shown. To our knowledge these results for the first time provide direct evidence for a strong correlation between UV inducible free radicals of formulations and the potential to induce A. aesti- valis in sensitive subjects. Furthermore it offers a rationale for the development of low risk sunscreen formulations by selection of suitable filter systems combined with in situ ESR analysis. Introduction Cosmetic products may undergo oxidation, leading to rancid- formulation quality. Furthermore, the presence of hydroxyper- ity, discoloration, and destabilization. This oxidation process oxides and other peroxide free radicals is known to induce can be minimized by the control of raw materials quality, pres- photo-toxic/chemo-toxic skin reactions [1]. ervation, and appropriate storage times and conditions. Nev- Photo allergic dermatitis is affecting 1 to 2 % of the popula- ertheless, when applied on the skin, the product is exposed tion. One of the most common form of this UV-induced skin to enviro nmental factors as sunlight and oxygen, which can reaction is given by Acne aestivalis (also known as Mallorca easily and quickly start oxidation and rancidity processes. acne), a special kind of polymorphous light eruption. It is The rancidity process can be roughly divided into an initiation, a monomorphous eruption consisting of multiple, uniform, a propagation, and a termination step, with different radical red, papular lesions, reported to occur after sun exposure. species involved in each step. Acne aestivalis is a photo-induced severe skin reaction, be- UV radiation can lead to radical chain reactions inside the formulation. Some active ingredients inside the cosmetic formulation might trigger these radical chain reactions or might act as catalyzer: • Some organic UV-filters; • Photocatalytically active TiO2 (uncoated) • Perfume components containing hydroperoxides • Unsaturated lipids of natural oils Although these free radicals should not be harmful for the consumers (they will not penetrate into the living lay- Fig. 1 Case report of Acne aestivalis (Source: Institute Dermatronnier, [4]) ers of the skin), they can lead to a deterioration of the 2 sofwjournal | 142 | 03/16 sun care | personal care longing to the terminus “polymorpheous light dermatosis” (PLD), with immune- and autoimmune co-involvement. It is often correlated to sunscreens, since the affected skin areas are exposed to frequent sun irradiation, especially UV A ra- diation. There is evidence, that peroxide reactions are involved in the pathophysiologic mechanism. Antioxidants have been shown to ameliorate the symptoms, but the entire molecu- lar mechanism is still not understood. [2,3]. The aim of the present investigation was to find a correla- tion between the amount of UV-inducible free radicals inside a sunscreen formulation and the clinical symptoms of Acne aestivalis. Fig. 2 Example of free radical generation in a cosmetic formulation RP Method (Radical Potential) (placebo) spiked with natural oils or perfume oils (PO) A semistable spin probe PCA (2,2,5,5-tetramethyl pyrrolidine N-oxyl, 0.01 mM final concentration) was added to the di- Clinical Study luted cosmetic product. The samples are inserted in capillary quartz tubes, the concentration of the spin marker is moni- The test subjects, all being sensitive to Acne aestivalis, are tored by ESR spectroscopy before and after defined UV radia- irradiated using only UV A radiation, on 5 successive days. A tion doses. The PCA spin probe is photostable and resistant Solar Simulator (SOL 5, Hönle AG, Germany) was used. The to antioxidants, but it promptly reacts with the UV generated irradiation dosis was 20 J/cm2, far below the erythema thresh- free radicals inside the samples (mainly hydroxyl radicals, lipid old. The test formulations, as well as the positive and negative peroxides and lipidic radicals). The amount of UV generated control, are applied 10 minutes prior to the irradiation on the free radicals can be quantitatively detected from a calibra- décolleté area. The skin reactions are evaluated directly after tion curve and the results are expressed in percentage of UV- each irradiation and again after 24 hours, prior to the next inducible free radicals. irradiation dosis. The UV irradiation of the samples was performed with a UV A market sunscreen gel (SPF 30) served as a negative control, solar simulator 300 W Oriel (Newport). The irradiances as in- which has never provoked a skin reaction in sensitive subjects. tegrated value over the spectral ranges were E (UVB=280- A sunscreen formulation served as a positive control, which 320) = 23.5 W/m2 and E (UVA=320-400 nm) = 180 W/m2. provokes Acne aestivalis in disposed subjects. Increase of UV doses was achieved by increasing irradiation times. The emitting Intensity is controlled before each measurement. Results A cut-off filter 320 nm (ITOS W-NG-320, Schott) was used to obtain only UV A radiation. An example of RP data is given in Fig. 2. A cosmetic formula- ESR measurements were performed with a high sensitive X- tion was spiked with natural oils or perfume oils (PO). The band bench top Electron Spin Resonance Spectrometer Mi- Almond oil showed higher radical generation compared to niScope MS300, supplied from Magnettech GmbH Berlin, Olive oil, probably due to differences in the fatty acid compo- Germany [5]. sition and the oxidation grade. The two perfume oils showed AD 03/16 | 142 | sofwjournal 3 personal care | sun care very different reactions: PO “A” showed very low radical gen- The two sunscreens 12-1 and 12-2 were tested regarding eration (RP = 6.6 %), whereas PO “B” showed a strong radi- their capacity to induce Acne aestivalis in sensitive subjects: cal generation under UV (RP = 63.9 %). Sensorial properties had not changed. The added perfume oils differ with respect Positive Control to terpene composition, oxidation state, and especially in the content of hydroperoxide-terpenes, what is most likely the The most intensive reactions were observed after application reason for their different behaviours. of the positive control. This internal standard serves as a con- Two sunscreen formulations have been produced, both hav- ing an SPF of 30 and the same UVA/UVB ratio. The UV-filter composition differed (see Tab. 1). % of induced free % of induced free Formulation 12-1 contained only photostable UV-filters, where- Product radicals UVAB radicals UVA as formulation 12-2 contained also photo-unstable filters. The Radical Potential (RP) of both formulations was detected, using 12-1 0 ± 0,7 0 ± 0,1 the full spectrum UV light (280-400 nm), and the UV A region of the spectrum (320-400 nm) only, since Acne aestivalis is report- ed to be induced mainly by UV A radiation. Formulation 12-1 12-2 45,3 ± 1.0 21,9 ± 0.2 did not induce free radicals, whereas formulation 12-2 showed a high radical generation, both under full-spectrum UV and UV A Tab. 2 Relative amount of free radicals. N = 2 radiation (45.3 % and 21.9 %, respectively). (see Tab. 2). Phase INCI 12-1 12-2 Sucrose Polystearate (and) Cetyl Palmitate 3.00 3.00 Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosucchinate 1.00 1.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00 Lauryl Lactate 5.00 5.00 C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate 10.00 10.00 Dibutyl Adipate 10.00 10.00 A Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00 1.00 Ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS) 5.00 5.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM) 4.00 Diethylhexyl butamido triazone (DBT) 3.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) 2.00 2.00 Ethylhexyl triazone (EHT) 3.00 2.50 Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) 3.00 Aqua 44.60 39.10 Glycerine 2.00 2.00 B Xanthan Gum 0.20 0.20 Disodium EDTA 0.20 0.20 Phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid (PBSA) 2.00 C Aqua 5.00 Tromethamine 2.00 D Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) 3.50 E Undecan, Tridecan 2.00 2.00 Tab. 1 INCI of the two SPF 30 sunscreen formulas 4 sofwjournal | 142 | 03/16 sun care | personal care trol of the inducibility of Acne aestivalis in the selected test persons. Negative Control In the test areas treated with the negative control (market sunscreen gel- formulation) no skin reactions were observed in any of the subjects. (Reference for Positive and Negative control: confidential in- formation DermaTronnier) 12-1 In the test areas treated with this sunscreen formula, no Fig.
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