Island Bushwhacker Annual 2007
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THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA VANCOUVER ISLAND SECTION ISLAND BUSHWHACKER 2007 ANNUAL VANCOUVER ISLAND SECTION of THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA SECTION EXECUTIVE – 2007 CHAIR - Jules Thomson SECRETARY - Cedric Zala TREASURER - Geoff Bennett MEMBERSHIP - Phee Hudson NATIONAL CLUB - Russ Moir SCHEDULE - Karun Thanjavur FMCBC - Mike Morley EDUCATION - Peter Rothermel MEMBERS AT LARGE Russ Moir Sandy Stewart Mike Morley Torge Schuemann ISLAND BUSHWHACKER EDITORS Viggo Holm Sandy Briggs Lindsay Elms Rob Macdonald Russ Moir DESIGN & LAYOUT Sandy Stewart SUPPORT POSITIONS EQUIPMENT - Mike Hubbard LIBRARY - Judith Holm WEBMASTER - Don Cameron LIST SERVER - Don Cameron ACC National website: www.alpineclubofcanada.ca ACC VI Section website: www.accvi.ca ISSN 0822 - 9473 The cover image is a mosaic of central Vancouver Island created from images taken by the Landsat 7 satellite. Source: Government of Canada, Natural Resources Canada, Centre for Topographic Information www.GeoGratis.gc.ca Printed on recycled paper Contents VANCOUVER ISLAND Moonlight Dancing - Mounts Cain and Abel Mike Hubbard ....................................................................................................1 Lucky Mountain - First Recorded Ascent Sasha Kubicek ...........................................................................................................2 Handsome Peak Sasha Kubicek ...........................................................................................................................................................3 Mount Frink - Castlecrag Traverse Dave Campbell ......................................................................................................................5 First Technical Route on El Capitan: ‘The Schnoz’ George Milosevich ...............................................................................6 Adder Mountain: Climbing By Braille Martin Smith ....................................................................................................................7 Mount Mitchell Peter Rothermel .........................................................................................................................................................9 Mount Hooper and Mount Buttle Lindsay Elms ........................................................................................................................ 10 Peak 5040 Miriam Davies ......................................................................................................................................................................11 Friday the 13th – Tempting Fate at Mount Colonel Foster Ken Wong ................................................................................12 Got Lucky! (Not the beer, eh, but the mountain!) Lindsay Elms ......................................................................................... 14 Mount Hall and Mount Toquart Lindsay Elms ............................................................................................................................ 15 Golden Hinde Area,... Almost Spanked On The Behinde! Peter Rothermel ................................................................... 16 Henshaw Creek Traverse: Flower Ridge to Shepherd Ridge Dave Campbell ................................................................ 19 Bonanza Range Lindsay Elms............................................................................................................................................................. 20 In Flower Ridge, Out Shepherds Ridge Lindsay Elms .............................................................................................................. 21 Comox Glacier Mike Hubbard ............................................................................................................................................................. 22 A Comedy of Errors at the Sooke Potholes Cedric Zala .......................................................................................................... 23 Perambulations on Vancouver’s Island – Chapter Twenty-Seven: In which our companions tackle Triple Peak, Richard vanishes, and Russell’s old friend appears. Rick Hudson ........................................................................................................................ 24 Pinder Peak Martin Smith .................................................................................................................................................................... 26 Conuma and Tlupana Peak* Lindsay Elms ................................................................................................................................... 28 COAST MOUNTAINS AND THE ROCKIES Exploring around Franklin Arm, Chilko Lake Dave Campbell ............................................................................................. 31 A Day Out in the Coast Mountains: Mount Joffre’s NE Couloir Rick Hudson ................................................................34 ACC-VI Summer Camp 2007: Stanley Mitchell Hut Cedric Zala ........................................................................................... 35 Tonquin Valley: Pixels for Paragon Russ Moir ............................................................................................................................. 37 Grandparents Day on Bugaboo Spire Chris Ruttan ................................................................................................................. 39 2007 PHOTO CONTEST WINNERS ...................................................................................................................................................... 42 SOUTH OF THE BORDER Black Butte and Castle Dome Martin Smith ................................................................................................................................44 Mount Rainer – Liberty Ridge Jain Alcock White....................................................................................................................... 45 North Twin Sister Tony Vaughn.........................................................................................................................................................48 Mounts Shasta and McLaughlin Martin Smith ........................................................................................................................... 49 Cinderella’s Ugly (Oregon) Sisters: North and Middle Sisters. Martin Smith ................................................................ 52 Mount Thielsen Tony Vaughn ............................................................................................................................................................ 55 DISTANT PLACES Mount Harston and the Falkland Islands: December 2005 Martin Smith ...................................................................... 56 Roraima, 2,810 metres - Venezuela Graham Maddocks ......................................................................................................... 58 Ecuador Tony Vaughn ........................................................................................................................................................................... 59 Ciudad Perdida - Colombia Graham Maddocks ......................................................................................................................... 62 Heilbronner Weg: A classic tour in the Bavarian Alps Albert Hestler ............................................................................... 63 Tour du Mont Blanc Albert Hestler .................................................................................................................................................. 65 Pyrenees Judith Holm ........................................................................................................................................................................... 67 Climbing in Arctic Sweden Don Morton ....................................................................................................................................... 67 Mount Fuji Tak Ogasawara ..................................................................................................................................................................68 Marooned in The Annapurna Wilderness Martin Smith ........................................................................................................ 69 Snow Picnic on Mt Kenya Rick Hudson .......................................................................................................................................... 75 Ode to a Banana Case Lisa Zala ........................................................................................................................................................ 78 Viggo A. Holm 1932 – 2007 Like all Viggo’s many friends, we in the Alpine Club were shocked and saddened to learn that there had been a motor vehicle accident on Monday September 10, 2007 on Highway 4 west of Port Alberni, and that he had not survived. We have lost a friend, a trusted companion, a dedicated volunteer, and a fellow mountaineer who, over a span of many years – including this year – impressed both the young and the not-so-young with his fitness and enthusiasm. In 2005 Viggo, along with Judith, was awarded the Don Forest Award for volunteer service to the ACC. We rec- ognize with thanks and admiration his many years as editor of the Island Bushwhacker newsletter, as well as his many other contributions to our Section. Friends comment that Viggo approached everything