Activation of Grape Production for Wines in Yamanashi Prefecture and Expansion of Japanese Wine Industry
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
特論Ⅰ Activation of grape production for wines in Yamanashi Prefecture and expansion of Japanese wine industry Hisayoshi KOGA, Kaori MARUYA, Yoshinori IMAMURA, Rumi IDE, Shiwei WANG, Ryosuke INOUE 2014/01/31 Index 1. Background ................................................................................................................... 3 1.1 Wine production and consumption in Japan .......................................................... 3 1.2 Characters and quality of Japanese wine ............................................................... 5 1.3 Major production area “Yamanashi” and “Koshu” wine ......................................... 5 1.4 Decrease in production of grapes for wine in Yamanashi ....................................... 6 2. Purpose of this research ............................................................................................. 8 3. Interviews ..................................................................................................................... 8 3.1 Interview with wineries .......................................................................................... 8 3.1.1 Chateau Sakaori Winery @ Kofu( http://www.sakaoriwine.com/ ) ................... 8 3.1.2 Marufuji Rubaiyat Winery @Katsunuma ( http://www.rubaiyat.jp/ ) .............10 3.1.3 Grace Wine Company @ Katsunuma ( http://www.grace-wine.com/ ) ............. 11 3.1.4 Ktsunuma Jozo @Katsunuma ( http://www.katsunuma-winery.com/ ) ........ 11 3.2 Interview with farmers ..........................................................................................12 3.2.1 Mr. Hosaka (farmer and JA stuff) @Nirasaki ..................................................12 3.2.2 Mr.Ohno (farmer) @Katsunuma ......................................................................13 3.2.3. Mr.Ishii ( farmer) ............................................................................................14 4 Proposals .......................................................................................................................14 2 1. Background 1.1 Wine production and consumption in Japan Wine production started in 1870’s, just after the Meiji restoration in Japan. The new government encouraged the production of wine and opened grape farms all over Japan. However, Japanese lands were contaminated by phylloxera since 1884. Furthermore, due to the Japanese traditional eating habit, the wine wasn’t familiar with Japanese consumers. Therefore, in the Japanese market, real wine was replaced by sweetened wine called “kanmi-budoshu”. It was around 1970’s that Japanese consumers were able to appreciate real wine because of the change of dietary pattern. For example, Tokyo Olympic Games of 1964 and Osaka international exhibition of 1970 might have an effect on the increase in consumption of real wine. In these 25 years, the wine consumption in Japan has changed rapidly. Through the increase of consumption influenced by the red wine boom due to the French paradox in 1997 and 1998, the consumption of wine has reached the level of 2,500khl. Despite the consumption decreased once after finishing the red wine boom, then it has substantially increased in the past few years. The wine consumption in Japan in 2011 was about 2,900khl. Now, the wine is integrated in Japanese daily life, and the market will expand continuously. However, in the respect of production of wine, it was very difficult to increase the production of grapes to offset such increasing wine consumption. The reasons of the difficulty were poor experience and poor technique of growing wine grapes under Japan’s climate conditions. Therefore, a large part of supply has been provided by the import wine and the production of wine made of imported materials. The market share of import wine is around 66%. And the import of wine which provides both ordinary wine and quality wine has been increasing. The wine made of imported materials makes up around 24% of the total supply. It was continuously improved by large wineries, and it had a big effect on increasing wine consumption as the ordinary wine. The last 10% of the supply is the wine produced by Japanese grapes. This type of wine is called Japanese wine. 3 Figure 1 Transition of wine consumption in Japan Source: Mercian web site Figure 2 Ratio of consumption of domestic wine and imported wine Source: National Tax Agency Statistical Survey 4 1.2 Characters and quality of Japanese wine As the consumption of wine has been increasing for these 25 years, consumers have accumulated the knowledge about the taste and the culture of wine. As a result, instead of imported wine or blended wine made from imported juice, there has been an increasing interest in Japanese wine, which is high quality and represents the feature of grapes used in the production. In the meantime, the only way for Japanese wineries to survive in a global market was to produce high quality wine. For this reason, major winery companies started to experiment and research to grow grapes for European wine under Japanese climate and soil condition. Small wineries also started to grow grapes for wine, aiming at producing wine made from the grapes based on the production area. Gradually, it became well known that high quality wine requires high quality grapes, and thus, more and more wineries began to grow grapes for wine and decrease purchase from grape farmers. These changes have dramatically contributed to the quality of wine made from domestic grapes. Since 2003, a contest called “Domestic wine contest” targeting the wine made from just domestic grapes has been held. This event has accelerated the competition between regions and also brought the increase in the quality of Japanese wine. 1.3 Major production area “Yamanashi” and “Koshu” wine Yamanashi prefecture, which records the largest production of wine in 2008, is one of the major wine producing regions in Japan (Figure 3). Given that in Kanagawa prefecture, which stands second position in wine production, much of the wine is made from imported juice, it can be said that Yamanashi is the center of the wine production in terms of both wine and grapes. Yamanashi holds a grape species “Koshu”, which is peculiar to Japan and started to be grown thousand years ago. “Koshu wine” made from this species has a history of about hundred thirty years. It is said that it was not until Yamada Hironori and Takuma Norihisa applied the fermentation technique of sake to wine fermentation from “Koshu” in 1870 that wine fermentation in Japan started. Thus, Yamanashi has developed as a major traditional production area of both wine and grapes for eating raw. In addition to that, recently it has become clear that Koshu specie is a hybrid with European species (Vitis vinifera), not an American species (Vitis labrusca)1. In the environment of increasing interests in Japanese wine, this fact particularly has 1 In Europe, Vitis vinifera and Vitis labrusca are grown separately. The former is treated as a species for fermentation and the later is treated as a species for eating raw. 5 attracted people’s attention to “Koshu wine” made from grapes that are specific in Japan. For instance, in the domestic wine contest it has established “Koshu” category. Moreover, in 2010 OIV2 enrolled “Koshu” as a grape species. It means that “Koshu” has been recognized as a grape species for wine fermentation and that Japanese wineries have become able to export Koshu wine with a label “Koshu” to EU countries. Figure 3 Production of wine by prefecture Source: National Tax Agency Statistical Survey 1.4 Decrease in production of grapes for wine in Yamanashi However, despite the fact that Japanese wine has become popular, since 1991 production area of Koshu grape has been decreasing in Yamanashi. The reason of this decrease is said that while wineries find the increase in demand of wine and try to produce more Koshu wine, they face the shortage of Koshu grapes3. The decrease in production can be found not only in Koshu but also other species. On the other hand, looking at the grape production of each species in Yamanashi, one can find the increase in production areas for the species which are popular and demanded in the markets, such as Pione and Shine muscat. Figure 4 shows changes of the production of Pione and Koshu. In Nagano, Yamagata, and Hokkaido, there has 2 OIV stands for Organisation Internationale de la Vigne et du Vin, which is a governmental institution in France that tackles problems related to grape and wine production. 3 Since there are no data about the amount of production of Koshu grapes and how much of them is for wine, it is based on interviews to wineries 6 been an increase in the production area of grapes for wine due to the recent increase in demand for Japanese wine. Figure 5 shows the transition of the amount of the wine production in Yamanashi and the other domestic areas, including wine made from imported juice. It can be seen that though wine produced in Yamanashi accounts for about a half in 1981, it became 33.8% in 2007. With respect to quantity, wine production in Yamanashi has not experienced a large increase in these thirty years, though some increases can be observed with wine booms. 18000 16000 14000 12000 10000 甲州 8000 ピオーネ 6000 4000 2000 0 1975 1985 1971 1973 1977 1979 1981 1983 1987 1989 1991 1993 1995 1997 1999 2001 2003 2005 1969 Figure 4 Transition of production of Pione and Koshu Source: Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries “Statistics on Production and Shipment of Fruits and Nuts” Figure 5 Amount of wine