,' I Extension Folder 244 ®
TESTING THE
IN MUSLIN
Athelene Scheid
AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERv1cP UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA (D
· In making a coat or suit the pattern is first tested in mi.1slin. A muslin test garment allows one to check thebecomingness of a style and to make the needed ·alterations before the ac tual garment is cut from the fabric. Muslin The muslin fabric selected should be firmly woven and similar in weight to the fabric which will be used for the garment. It need not be preshrunk. Other fabric choices in plain color, besides muslin, are broadcloth, Indian head, denim, and ticking. Before laying the pattern, press all creases from the muslin fabric and straighten it so that lengthwise and crosswise yarns lie at right angles. Laying the Pattern The body pieces, sleeve, and under collar will be used for cutting the muslin. Omit facings, pockets, and other extra pieces. Make only known and proven lengthwise alterations on the pattern at this point. Lay the pattern on the muslin fabric grain line as accurately as you would on a valuable fabric. Otherwise, testing in muslin will not serve its full purpose. On fitted coats and jackets increase seam allow ances to I inch on shoulder seam, center back seam, side seam, and other lengthwise body seams. This extra allowance is sometimes needed in fitting. Mark these new seam allowances with pencil. In cutting out the garment, cut exactly on the cutting line and cut notches outward. Marking All pattern markings are transferred to the mus lin. Tracing carbon or pencil may be used. These markings are made on the right side of the muslin: • Lengthwise grainline, full length of each pattern piece. Always mark center front and center back. • Crosswise grainline, full width of pattern piece. Each pattern piece will have one or more cross wise markings. Place a crosswise grainline marking 5 inches below shoulder on front and back pieces. Place a grainline marking across sleeve :Y2 inch below armhole seam. Mark where a pattern piece is to be length ened or shortened. I I
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If a pattern piece is large, mark a second cross wise grainline to break space. Position so front and back grainline markings coincide at side seam. • Location of buttonholes, pockets, pleats, other details. • Balance points indicating such things as waist line, placement for ease, ends of collar. • Turning line for hems. 111111~1i1im~~111rn11l1~11i1i1~1i1l1~1l1i~11 111 3 195 1 D01 928 519 Z ~ / 1/ 1/ 1/
I 1 1 . These markings are made on the wrong side of t~~:~:!in: I.I LJ 1 :1 • Seamlines Where allowance was increased from 1/s to 1 inch. Where seamlines cross - example: lapel and collar corners.
Making Model The test muslin is machine basted ( 6 to 8 stitches per inch) following instructions on the guide sheet of the pattern. Each step is made ac curately and pressed. Staystitch the neckline edges of the garment, the under collar, and other places indicated on the guide sheet. Turn under and machine baste seam allowance on the outer edges of the under collar and the front edges of the garment. Turn up hem allowances and pin in place. Pin in shoulder shapes ( shoulder pads) if they are used. The entire muslin test garment is completed before trying on or fitting any section. A well-made test muslin will have a "finished" look. It may even tempt you to wear it.
Athelene Scheid is a professor and extension clothing specialist, University of Minnesota. Issued in furtherance of cooperative extension work in agriculture and home economics, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Roland H. Abraham, Director of Agricultural Extension Service, University of Mi nnesota, St. Paul, Minnesota 55101. SM - 9-68