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Chile & Easter Island 11

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Chile &

Norte Grande p143

Easter Island Norte Chico (Rapa Nui) p190 p401

Santiago Middle p44 p88

Sur Chico p220 Chiloé p277

Northern p297

Southern Patagonia p338 Tierra del Fuego p379

Carolyn McCarthy, Cathy Brown, Mark Johanson, Kevin Raub, Regis St Louis PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Chile...... 6 ...... 44 Cajón del ...... 83 Chile Map...... 8 History...... 45 Tres Valles...... 86 Chile’s Top 20...... 10 Sights...... 45 Activities...... 61 MIDDLE CHILE. . . . . 88 Need to Know...... 20 Courses...... 62 Valparaíso & If You Like ...... 22 Tours...... 63 the Central Coast...... 89 Valparaíso...... 89 Month by Month...... 25 Festivals & Events . . . . . 64 Sleeping...... 65 Viña Del Mar...... 101 Itineraries ...... 28 Eating...... 68 Valley Wineries...... 106 Chile Outdoors...... 33 Drinking & Nightlife...... 72 Quintay...... 107 Travel with Children. . . . . 38 Entertainment ...... 74 Isla Negra ...... 108 Shopping...... 75 Regions at a Glance. . . . 40 Parque Nacional Around Santiago ...... 81 la Campana...... 108 Maipo Valley Wineries. . . . . 81 Valley. . . . . 109 Pomaire...... 82 Los ...... 109 BAS VAN DEN HEUVEL/SHUTTERSTOCK © LARYLITVIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

SANTIAGO’S BELLAVISTA PARQUE NACIONAL NEIGHBORHOOD P70 HUERQUEHUE P242 STEVE ALLEN/SHUTTERSTOCK© JOSE LUIS STEPHENS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

COLCHAGUA VALLEY P112 IGLESIA SAN FRANCISCO DE CASTRO P289 Contents

Portillo...... 110 Salto Del Laja...... 134 Reserva Nacional Southern Heartland. . . . 111 Los Angeles...... 135 Los Flamencos...... 158 Colchagua Valley...... 112 Parque Nacional El Tatio Geysers...... 160 Matanzas...... 115 Laguna del Laja ...... 135 Calama...... 161 Pichilemu...... 115 Angol ...... 136 Chuquicamata ...... 163 Curicó...... 118 Parque Nacional ...... 163 Nahuelbuta...... 137 Parque Nacional South of Antofagasta . . . . .166 Radal Siete Tazas...... 119 Archipiélago Juan Iquique...... 167 Fernández ...... 138 Maule Valley ...... 120 East of Iquique...... 174 San Juan Bautista...... 139 Reserva Nacional Pisagua ...... 176 Altos de Lircay...... 122 Parque Nacional Archipielago Juan Arica...... 176 Chillán ...... 123 Fernandez...... 142 Around Arica...... 185 Termas de Chillán & Route 11...... 185 Valle Las Trancas...... 125 Putre...... 186 Coastal Towns...... 127 NORTE GRANDE. . . . 143 Parque Nacional Concepción...... 128 San Pedro de Atacama...... 146 ...... 188 DANITA DELIMONT/GETTY IMAGES ©

AHU TONGARIKI P413 ON THE ROAD

NORTE CHICO. . . . 190 La Serena ...... 192 /GETTYIMAGES © Elqui Valley ...... 201 Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt. . . 208 Huasco Valley...... 209 Parque Nacional Llanos de Challe...... 211 Copiapó...... 211 Parque Nacional . . . . . 214 ...... 214 GEYSERS DEL TATIO P148 ...... 215 Bahía Inglesa ...... 217 Ensenada...... 263 Chaitén...... 304 Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar...... 218 Parque Nacional Futaleufú...... 306 Vicente Pérez Rosales. . . 265 La Junta...... 309 Cochamó...... 266 SUR CHICO...... 220 Puyuhuapi...... 311 Río Cochamó Valley. . . . 268 Parque Nacional La Araucanía...... 221 Río Puelo...... 269 Queulat ...... 312 Temuco ...... 221 Puelo Valley...... 270 Coyhaique...... 314 Parque Nacional Puerto Montt ...... 270 Reserva Nacional Conguillío...... 226 Río Simpson...... 320 Curacautín...... 228 Parque Nacional Reserva Nacional CHILOÉ...... 277 Cerro Castillo...... 320 ­Malalcahuello-Nalcas . . . 228 Ancud...... 279 Villa Cerro Castillo. . . . . 320 Melipeuco ...... 230 Monumento Natural Puerto ...... 230 Islotes de Puñihuil. . . . . 283 Ingeniero Ibáñez...... 321 Pucón...... 234 Quemchi ...... 283 Chile Chico ...... 322 Parque Nacional Isla Mechuque ...... 285 Reserva Nacional Villarrica...... 240 Dalcahue...... 285 Lago Jeinimeni...... 326 Río Liucura & Isla Quinchao ...... 286 Puerto Río Tranquilo. . . . 326 Río Caburgua Valleys. . . .. 241 Peninsula de Rilán. . . . . 288 Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Castro...... 289 Laguna San Rafael...... 327 Huerquehue ...... 242 Parque Nacional Cruce el Maitén ...... 328 Curarrehue ...... 243 Chiloé...... 294 Puerto Guadal...... 329 Los Ríos...... 243 Parque Tantauco . . . . . 295 Puerto Bertrand & Valdivia...... 243 Quellón...... 296 Río Baker...... 329 The District. . . . . 249 Parque Nacional Patagonia...... 330 ...... 249 NORTHERN Parque Nacional Cochrane...... 331 Puyehue...... 252 PATAGONIA...... 297 Caleta Tortel...... 333 Frutillar...... 254 Hornopirén ...... 300 Puerto Yungay...... 334 Puerto Varas...... 256 Parque Nacional Villa O’Higgins ...... 335 Pumalín...... 302 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Chile Today ...... 418 ENCRIER/GETTYIMAGES © PHOTON-PHOTOS/GETTYIMAGES © History...... 420 Life in Chile...... 432 Literature & Cinema . . . 434 The Natural World . . . . . 437 National Parks . . . . . 443

SURVIVAL GUIDE MUSEO NACIONAL DE GREY P363 BELLAS ARTES P53 Directory A–Z...... 446 Porvenir...... 382 SOUTHERN Transportation ...... 455 PATAGONIA...... 338 Parque Nacional Yendegaia ...... 384 Language...... 463 Magallanes Region. . . . 340 Isla Navarino...... 384 Punta Arenas ...... 340 Index...... 471 Cabo de Hornos & Última Esperanza. . . . 349 Surrounding Islands . . . . 388 Map Legend...... 478 Puerto Natales...... 349 Argentine Tierra Cueva del Milodón...... 357 del Fuego...... 388 Parque Nacional Ushuaia...... 389 Bernardo O’Higgins. . . . 358 Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego...... 398 Torres del Paine...... 358 Tolhuin & Argentine Patagonia. . . 367 Lago Fagnano...... 399 El Calafate...... 367 Río Grande ...... 400 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (South)...... 372 EASTER ISLAND El Chaltén ...... 374 (RAPA NUI)...... 401 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (North)...... 377 ...... 402 Parque Nacional Rapa Nui ...... 411 SPECIAL TIERRA DEL Understand FUEGO...... 379 Easter Island...... 413 FEATURES Chilean Tierra Survival Guide ...... 415 Chilean Wine...... 130 Del Fuego...... 382 The Natural World . . . . 154 Argentine Patagonia ...... 367 Argentine Tierra del Fuego...... 388 National Parks. . . . . 443 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 28

Itineraries •#

BOLIVIA

El Tatio Geysers •# San Pedro de Atacama •# BRAZIL •# PARAGUAY Valle de la Luna ÷# Reserva Nacional Los

É Flamencos

É CHILE

É É •# Portillo

•##_

Valparaíso SANTIAGO URUGUAY D É Easter Island Pucón •# PA C I F I C Puerto Montt •# O C E A N Chiloé •#

É AT L A N T I C O C E A N

Parque Nacional ÷# Puerto Torres del Paine •#Natales

4 WEEKS Best of Chile

Skate through Chile’s amazing diversity in one month. From Santiago, feed your imagi- nation exploring boho Valparaíso. In winter hit nearby powder stashes at top Andean resorts like Portillo. Then turn up the dial with desert heat. Fly or bus to the highland village of San Pe- dro de Atacama. Absorb ambience visiting the moonlike Valle de la Luna, the steaming and strange El Tatio Geysers and the stark Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos. Wind up days of hiking, horseback riding or volcano climbing with mel- low evening bonfires and star-stocked skies. Or skip the desert to hop a plane to Easter Island (Rapa Nui) and puzzle over its archaeological treasures for five days. Head south to delve into temperate rainforest in Pucón, where rafting, hiking and hot springs fill up your Lakes District dance card. From Puerto Montt, detour to folklore capital Chiloé, or cruise on a four-day ferry ride through glacier-laced fjords to Puerto Natales. By now you are probably in top shape for Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Take three days to a week at this world-famous hiking destination. 29

Zapallar •#

Maitencillo •# É

•# Valparaíso •# Viña del Mar Casablanca

É Valley •# É SANTIAGO TRIP YOUR PLAN #_•#Viña Cousiño Macul •# Viña Santa PA C I F I C CHILE Rita

O C E A N É It

Pichilemu •# i nerar É

•# Santa Cruz •# Colchagua Valley ARGENTINA

i es É

Maule Valley •#

2 WEEKS La Capital & Wine Country

Explore Chile’s vibrant wine scene with urban vinotecas and vineyards in the shadow of the Andes. In Santiago, stroll around the historic center, break for a seafood lunch in the clam- oring Mercado Central and tour , Pablo ’s home. Sip champagne at Bocanáriz or catch experimental dance at the Centro Gabriela Mistral. Big-bodied reds are crafted in Santiago’s outskirts; in the Maipo valley, visit the wineries at Viña Santa Rita and Viña Cousiño Macul. Sample the whites of Casablanca Valley, where aspiring pickers can join Viña Casas del Bosque’s March harvest. Tren Sabores del Valle offers train service from Santiago to Santa Cruz with wine tastings. On to funky Valparaíso to roam steep hills and ride antique elevators. Admire open- air graffiti, step into Neruda’s La Sebastiana getaway and feast on freshly caught fish. Then hit nearby resort cities Viña del Mar, Zapallar or Maitencillo for a quick beach getaway. Finish in Chile’s best-known wine region, Colchagua Valley. Overnight in Santa Cruz with a morning visit to the Museo de Colchagua before a carriage ride at Viu Ma- nent, or a world-class prix-fixe lunch at Lapostolle. Surf in relaxed Pichilemu or visit the lesser-known wineries of Maule Valley. 30

Puerto Montt •# É Parque ÷# Nacional Pumalin •# Futaleufú ARGENTINA

É

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É

•#Puyuhuapi ÷# Parque Nacional Queulat

•# Coyhaique É É Chile Chico •#•# Parque Los Antiguos PA C I F I C Nacional ÷# AT L A N T I C It Patagonia

O C E A N É i nerar O C E A N Villa •# O'Higgins

É •#El Chaltén i es Parque Nacional ÷# •# Los Glaciares El Calafate É Parque Nacional ÷# Torres del Paine •# Puerto Natales

4 WEEKS Pioneer Patagonia

If you wish to travel only back roads, if you desire getting dirty, almost lost and awe- inspired, look no further than this four-week plan. Following the Carretera Austral, this route crisscrosses its little-known offshoots and gives you plenty of time on the hoof. Summer, with better connections and warm weather, is the best time to go. From Puerto Montt, ferry to Parque Nacional Pumalín and explore ancient for- ests and climb to the steaming crater of Volcán Chaitén. Ramble the Carretera Austral to Futaleufú, for stunning rural vistas and heart-pumping white . Check out the hot-springs options near Puyuhuapi or camp under the hanging glacier at Parque Nacional Queulat. Coyhaique is the next major hub. After making connections to Chile Chico on the enormous Lago General Carrera, hop the border to Los Antiguos and travel Argentina’s classic Ruta 40 to El Chaltén for hiking around the gnarled tooth of Cerro Fitz Roy. Take two days to visit El Calafate, spending one under the spell of the magnificent gla- cier Perito Moreno in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. While you’re there, feast on giant steaks and bottles of peppery Malbec. From El Calafate it’s an easy bus connection to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine via Puerto Natales. Hike the ‘W’ route or go for the full weeklong circuit. By now you’re in prime hiking shape – enjoy passing others on the trail. Return to Natales for post-trek pampering, namely hand-crafted beer, hot tubs and thin-crust pizza. With time, return to Puerto Montt via the Navimag ferry. With an extra week, an alternative route would be to skip Chile Chico and follow the Carretera Austral to its southern terminus. Spend a few days hiking in Parque Nacion- al Patagonia, a new world-class park, refuge to scores of guanaco, puma and condors. Reach Villa O’Higgins and the end of the road to fish, hike and ferry to the O’Higgins glacier on the southern ice field. From here, a rugged boating and hiking combination can get you across the border to El Chaltén. 31 DANTEBUSQUETS/SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es BAS VAN DEN HEUVEL/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top: Valle de la Luna (p159) Bottom: Putre (p186) 32 32

PERU

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Putre Parque •# Nacional Lauca ÷# É Arica •# Reserva PA C I F I C Nacional ÷# Las Vicuñas

O C E A N É Monumento ÷# Natural Salar de Surire

It

É É

i nerar Parque P

a Nacional ÷# n Volcán a

m

Pisagua •# e r i

i es c

a É n

a

•# Humberstone Iquique •# É •# Santa Laura

1 WEEK Desert Solitaire

How about a few days sleeping under star-crazy skies and following condor shadows along desert mountaintops? You’ll need a 4WD and plenty of food, water and extra gas. Start with a surfboard in Iquique to sample the swells of Playa Cavancha and Playa Huaiquique, then jump off a cliff on a tandem paragliding jaunt. With the adrenaline rush in place, slow things down with a contemplative wander around nitrate ghost towns Santa Laura and Humberstone, where you can poke around the creepy aban- doned buildings of these once-flourishing spots and explore their crumbling grandeur. Head north, with an optional stop in the isolated coastal town of Pisagua, once a bustling nitrate-era port, then a penal colony and today a nearly abandoned and strange- ly lyrical place where algae gatherers work alongside the ruins of busted mansions; don’t miss the windswept old cemetery sloping forlorn on a nearby hill. Cheer up in sunny Arica, where plenty of surf awaits below the dramatic headland of El Morro and remarkably preserved Chinchorro mummies lie in situ at the small museum just below the hill. From the coast, head inland via Hwy 11, passing geoglyphs, colonial chapels and misty mountain hamlets, to the pretty Andean village of Putre. Take a day or two here to catch your breath, literally, as Putre sits at a dizzying altitude of 3530m. Once you’ve adjusted to the height, head to nearby Parque Nacional Lauca, where you can take in the perfect cone of Volcán , wander through the tiny Aymara village with the same name and walk around the lovely Lago Chungará, all paired with awesome wildlife sightings in this Unesco Biosphere Reserve. Further south, the remote Reserva Nacional Las Vicuñas shelters thousands of these flighty creatures and few interlopers to spook them, so go easy. Heading south on tough terrain past dazzling landscapes and through the isolated salt flat of Monumento Natural Salar de Surire with its three species (best seen between December and April), your reward for an adventurous ride is reaching the ultra-removed Parque Nacional Volcán Isluga, before looping back to Iquique. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 469

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS Cathy Brown I’d like to thank my kiddos for always being sup- Many thanks to the travelers who used the last portive as I take off to end-of-the-world destinations edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful and my dad for never missing a chance to make it advice and interesting anecdotes: known how proud of me he is for ending up a travel Alicia Metz, Camila Serrano Strancar, Chelsea Slade, writer. I’d also like to thank Juan and Ignacio of Tierra Daniel Aedo, Daniëlle Wolbers, David Peacock, Diana Turismo for friendship, great wine, Guns N’ Roses ka- Maddison, Doug Robertson, Elizabeth Rogers, Gabri- raoke, asados, magical lupine fields, Tolhuin random- elle Agosin, Grant McCall, Guy Cunningham, Hendrik ness and, basically, the best road trip ever helping Wiebel, Holly Houghton, Jana Alagarajah, Judit Pinter, me to get to know their beloved Tierra del Fuego. Kate Menzies, Katy Bowers, Luigi Fiorino, Margriet Rikkers, Mariyam Varley, Nana Mikkelsen, Nicole Mark Johanson Binkert, Philip Graham, Robert Hendrickson, Rutger Muchas gracias to all the Chilean and Rapa Nui Lange, Shirley Spring, Veronika Bikova, Wolfgang people who warmed my heart and filled my belly with Brueckl so much manjar and Carmenere that it was often im- possible to work. Thanks to Felipe Bascuñán, Megan Snedden, Vanessa Petersen and Carla Andrade WRITER THANKS for joining me for portions of the trip and offering Carolyn McCarthy expertise. Additional thanks go out to Paula Santa I am so grateful to my second homeland for its great Ana, Franz Schubert, Grant Phelps, Gonzalo Silva and people and unparalleled wilderness. It’s my good Sandra Luz La Torre for being fountains of knowledge fortune to see Patagonia grow into an even better along the way. place through conservation and the hard work of its inhabitants. For this trip, my deepest thanks to Kevin Raub Maija Meri, co-pilot extraordinaire. Gratitude goes to Thanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub – it’s been Trauko, Pati, Randy and Andres; Mireya and family a tough year. MaSovaida Morgan and my partners in and Mery and Mauricio; hiking partners Walter and crime, Carolyn McCarthy, Regis St Louis and Mark Estefania; and the kind strangers who fixed my flat Johanson. On the road, Britt Lewis, Cyril Christensen, in La Junta. Finally, thanks to pilot Vince for showing Juan Pablo Mansilla, Karin Terrsy, Alfonso Spoliansky, me the fragile beauty that is the southern ice field. Fernando Claude and Amory, Daniel Seeliger and 470 Silvina Verdun, Kurt Schillinger, Rodrigo Condeza, dalena and Genevieve, for tolerating my sometimes Ernesto Palm de Curto, Marie Brandt and Francisco long absences. Campbell, Natalia Hidalgo, Sirce Santibañez, Tracy Katelman, Vincent Baudin, James Graham and Kristin Kidd, and Annette Bottinelli. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Regis St Louis

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of I’m grateful to countless locals who helped out the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- along the way, in particular Manuel in Caldera; ogy and System Sciences, 11, 163344. Flavio and Patrizia in Putre; Aris in Iquique; and Cover photograph: statue, Easter Island, Priscilla in San Pedro. Thanks also to MaSovaida Randy Olsen/National Geographic Creative © Morgan for bringing me on board and to fellow writer Carolyn McCarthy for all her hard work. Thanks to my wife, Cassandra, and daughters, Mag-

THIS BOOK Carillet, Kevin Raub and Lucas Book Designer Clara Monitto Vidgen. This guidebook was Assisting Editors Katie This 11th edition of Lonely produced by the following: Connolly, Lucy Cowie, Andrea Planet’s Chile & Easter Island Destination Editors Dobbin, Kellie Langdon, Jodie guidebook was researched and MaSovaida Morgan, Bailey Martire, Anne Mulvaney, Kristin written by Carolyn McCarthy, Freeman Odijk, Charlotte Orr, Sarah Cathy Brown, Mark Johanson, Senior Product Editor Reid Kevin Raub and Regis St Louis, Saralinda Turner Cover Researcher Naomi and curated by Carolyn. The Product Editor Sandie Kestell Parker previous edition was written Corey Thanks to Hannah Cartmel, by Carolyn McCarthy, Greg Senior Cartographer Hutchison Gwen Cotter, Ross Taylor, Benchwick, Jean-Bernard Angela Tinson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 471

Index

A drinking & nightlife 182-3 Atacameño people 421, 433 Porvenir 382 accommodations 446-7, see festivals & events 180 ATMs 451 Puerto Varas 257 also individual locations food 181-2 Aymara people 433 Punta Arenas 343-4 Achao 287-96 history 177 Azapa Valley 185 boat travel 458-9 Aconcagua Mountain 111 information 183 boat trips Aconcagua Valley 109-11 shopping 183 Caldera 216 B activities 24, 25-7, 33-7, see sights 177-9 Bachelet, Michelle 429, 431 Coquimbo 198 also individual activities tours 180 Bahía Inglesa 217-18 El Calafate (Argentina) 367 addresses 447 travel to/from 183-4 Baños Morales 86 Iquique 170 Aguas Calientes 252-4 travel within 184-5 bargaining 453 Parque Nacional Laguna ahu 402-3, 412, 413, 415, 3 San Rafael 328 art galleries & art museums, Bartonellosis 449 air travel 455-6, 458 see also cultural centers, Parque Nacional Los bathrooms 453 Alcoguaz 202 museums Glaciares (North) 378 beaches Aldea de Tulor 158 Artequin 101 Parque Nacional Los Arica 179 alerce 302 Casa del Arte Diego Glaciares (South) Bahía Inglesa 217 372, 373 Allende, Isabel 427, 434 Rivera 271 Cachagua 105 Parque Nacional Torres Allende, Salvador 51, 68, Centro Cultural Augustín Cobquecura 127 del Paine 363 424-6 Ross 116 Concón 105 Puerto Varas 258 alpacas 438 Centro Cultural Palacio La Moneda 50-1 Easter Island 403, 412-13 Puerto Williams 385, 386 altitude sickness 449 Centro Gabriela Mistral 53 Guanaqueros 198 Punta Arenas 342 amusement parks 58, 399 Edificio Radicales 53 Horcón 105 Ushuaia (Argentina) 389, Ancud 279-83, 280 Galería Animal 61 Iquique 170 390, 391-2 Andes 15, 111, 437-8, 15 Galería Isabel Aninat 61 Isla Damas 208 Valdivia 245 Angelmó 271 La Casa del Arte 128 La Serena 193-4 Valparaíso 95-6 Angol 136-7 La Sala Galería de Arte 61 Maitencillo 105 Villa O’Higgins 335-6 animals 22, 438-9, see also Museo a Cielo Abierto 95 books 418, 430, 434 individual animals Papudo 105 Museo Artequín 58 history 424, 425, 427, 429 Antarctica 346 Petrohué 266 Museo Chileno de Arte border crossings 456 Anticura 254 Playa La Virgen 219 Precolombino 50 Argentina 326, 337, 456-7 Antillanca 254 Quintay 108 Museo de Arte Bolivia 457 Antofagasta 163-6 Reñaca 105 Contemporáneo 53, 245 457 Archipiélago Juan Fernández Río Caburgua Valley 241 Museo de Arte Buchupureo 127-8 138-42, 139 Tongoy 199 Contemporáneo Espacio budget 21, 446, 449 area codes 21, 453 Quinta Normal 57-8 Zapallar 105 Belén 183 bus travel 456, 459-60, Argentina Museo de Artes Visuales 461-2 53 beer 201, 245, 262 Patagonia 367-78 bushwalking, see hiking Museo de Bellas Artes 93 bicycling 36, 61, 147, 405, Tierra del Fuego 388-400 business hours 21, 451 travel to/from 337, 456-7 Museo de la Solidaridad 458, 36, see also Salvador Allende 51 mountain biking Arica 176-85, 178-9 Museo Nacional de Bellas birds 438, see also accommodations 180-1 C Artes 53, 5 individual species cable cars 55 activities 179-80 Museo Ralli 59 birdwatching Cabo de Hornos 388 courses 180 Parque Cultural de Coyhaique 314 Cabo Froward 349 Valparaíso 94 Parque Nacional Chiloé Cachagua 105 294 Teatro del Lago 255 Cahuil 116 Map Pages 000 Parque Nacional Tierra astronomy 166-7, 205 Cajón del Maipo 83-6 Photo Pages 000 del Fuego 398 431 472 Calama 161-3, 160-1 Cerro La Campana 108 Iquique 170 dangers 77, 100, 452 Caldera 215-17 Cerro San Cristóbal 55 Ojos del Salado 214-15 desierto florido 212 Caleta Chañaral de Chaitén 304-6 Parque Nacional Los Dientes de Navarino 385, Aceituno 208 Chatwin, Bruce 357 Glaciares (North) 377 386 Caleta Cóndor 250 Chepu 284 Parque Nacional Nevado disabilities, travelers Caleta Hanga Piko 403 Chester Beer Brewing Tres Cruces 214 with 454

INDEX INDEX Caleta Hanga Roa 403 Company 262 Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez distilleries 202, 206 Caleta Tortel 333-4 children, travel with 38-9, 58 321 diving 37 Cañete 137 Chile Chico 322-3, 326 Puerto Varas 257-8 Bahía Inglesa 217 San Pedro de Atacama C-E canyoning 37, 236 Chilean recluse spiders 449 Easter Island 403-4, 412  147 Capilla de Mármol 326, Chillán 123-5, Punta Arenas 342

124 155  Santiago 61 car travel 456, 460-1, see Chiloé 41, 277-96, dogs 452 278 Volcán Villarrica 240 also road trips accommodations 277 dogsledding 231 Cobquecura 127 drinks 448, see also beer, Carnaval 25, 180, 26 churches 13, 288, 13 Cochamó 266-8 pisco, wine Carretera Austral 15, 301, climate 277 Cochiguaz 207-8 7, 15, 324-5 driver’s licenses 460 food 277 Cochrane 331-3 Casablanca Valley 106-7 driving, see car travel, highlights 278 Codpa 183 road trips Cascada de las Animas 85-6 history 279 Caspana 150 Colchagua Valley 112-15, travel seasons 277 2, 132-3 castles & forts E travel to/from 279 175 Castillo de Corral 248 426, 429- Chinchorro mummies 185, colectivos 462 Castillo de la Pura y 186, 420 30, 452 Concepción 128-34 Limpia Concepción de Chiu Chiu 150 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) Monfort de Lemus 248 Concón 105 42, 401-16, Chuquicamata 163 402 Castillo San Pedro de condors 439 accommodations 401, churches & cathedrals Alcántara 248 consulates 448 415 Catedral de Puerto Castillo Wulff 101 Copiapó 211-14 arts 414-15 Montt 271 Fuerte Castillo de Coquimbo 197-8 climate 401 Catedral de San Marcos Amargos 248 177 Corral 248 culture 413-14 Fuerte Coquimbo 197 Catedral Metropolitana costs 21, 446, 449 environmental issues Fuerte San Antonio 279 51-2 courses 415 Fuerte Santa Bárbara 140 Iglesia de Nuestra Señora cooking 95 food 401, 416 Pukará de Copaquilla 185 del Patrocinio 287 language 62-3, 95, 116, highlights 402 Castro 289-94, 290 Iglesia de Piedra 127 170, 180, 194, 450 history 414 cathedrals, see churches & Iglesia de San Coyhaique 314-20, 315 internet access 416 cathedrals Francisco 52 crafts 452-3 language 464 Caupolicán 421 Iglesia del Sagrado Crater Morada del Diablo money 416 caves Corazón 257 349 telephone services 416 Ana Kai Tangata 412 Iglesia Hanga Roa 403 credit cards 451 tourist information 416 Ana Kakenga 412 Iglesia La Matriz 93 crime 452 travel seasons 401 Ana Te Pahu 412 Iglesia Nuestra Señora Cruce el Maitén 328 travel to/from 416 de Gracia de Nercón Cueva de las Manos 326 cruises 457 travel within 416 289 Cueva de los Pincheira Cueva del Milodón 357-8 economy 413-14, 418- Iglesia Parroquial María 125 19, 431 Inmaculada 266-7 cultural centers 56, 164, Cueva del Milodón 357-8 see also art galleries & El Calafate (Argentina) Iglesia San Francisco 193 Cuevas de Anzota 177 art museums, museums 367-72, 368-9 Iglesia San Francisco de Cuevas de los Patriotas culture 418-19, 432-3 El Cañi 241 Castro 289, 2 140 Curacautín 228 El Caulle 254 Iglesia San Pedro 146-7 Iglesia de Piedra 127 Curaco de Vélez 286-7 El Chaltén (Argentina) Iglesia Santa María de Pali Aike Cave 349 curanto 283 374-7 Loreto 287 cell phones 20, 453 Curarrehue 243 El Colorado 87 Nuestra Señora de Los Cementerio General 68 Dolores 285 Curicó 118-19, 119 El Enladrillado 122 cemeteries 68, 94, 176, 341 Parroquia Nuestra currency 20, 450-1 El Faro de Huasco 210 Centro Otzer Ling 207 Señora de Dolores 102 customs regulations 447-8 El Tatio Geysers 16, 160-1, Cerro El Roble 108 Santa Maria de Rilán 288 cycling, see bicycling 17, 156-7 cinema 418, 428, 435-6 electricity 448 climate 20, 25-7, see Elqui Valley 15, 201-8, 133 also individual regions D embassies 448 Map Pages 000 Dalcahue 285-6 climbing 34-5 emergencies 21 Photo Pages 000 dance 410, 411 473 Enquelga 175 Granizo 108 Parque Nacional Tierra El Chaltén (Argentina) Ensenada 263-4 guanacos 438 del Fuego 398-9 374 environmental issues 346, Guanaquero 198-9 Parque Nacional Torres Parque Nacional Los 440-2 Guevara, Ernesto ‘Che’ 164 del Paine 358-63 Glaciares (South) 373 Escorial del Diablo 349 Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Torres Escuela México 123 Villarrica 240-1 del Paine 363

Estancia Harberton 397 H Puerto Natales 350-1 Porvenir 383 INDEX Hanga Roa 402-11, 404 etiquette 433 Reserva Nacional Altos Pucón 236 accommodations 406-9 de Lircay 122 events 25-7 Puerto Natales 352 activities 403-5 Reserva Nacional Lago San Pedro de Atacama exchange rates 21  E-I drinking & nightlife 410 Jeinimeni 326 150  entertainment 410-11 Río Liucura Valley 242 Termas Valle de Colina F festivals & events 406 San Pedro de Atacama 86 Farellones 87 food 409-10 147 hot springs ferry travel 458-9 information 411 Villa O’Higgins 336 El Cañi 241-2 festivals 25-7 shopping 411 historic buildings & sites Pucón 234 Fiestas Patrias 27 sights 402-3 Casa Braun-Menéndez Reserva Nacional 341 films 418, 423, 429 tours 406 Malalcahuello-Nalcas Casino Español 169 229 fishing 37 travel within 411 Centro Cultural Estación Termas Aguas Calientes Parque Nacional Queulat hanta virus 449 313 Caldera 216 252 Harberton 397 Puerto Varas 257 Centro Cultural Palacio Termas de Puritama 158 health 449-50 Astoreca 169 Fitz Roy Range 377 Termas de Puyuhuapi Heyerdahl, Thor 424 Costanera Center 59-61 318 food 22-3, 283, 448, see hiking 22, 34, 35 also individual locations Cruz del Tercer Milenio Termas de Socos 200-1 Anticura 254 197-8 cooking courses 95 Termas del Sauce Cabo Froward 349 Ex-Aduana de Arica 309-10 Frutillar 254-6 Cochrane 332 177, 179 Termas del Ventisquero Fuerte Bulnes 348-9 Coyhaique 316 Fábrica de Alfombras 311 311 funiculars 55, 93, 94 Dientes de Navarino La Chascona 54-5 Termas El Amarillo 304 Futaleufú 306-9 385, 386 La Sebastiana 95 Termas Geométricas 232 Easter Island 404-5 Londres 38 53 Termas Jurasi 188 G El Caulle 254 Mercado Puerto 93 Termas Valle de Colina galleries, see art galleries Futaleufú 306-7 Monumento Natural 86 & art museums Isla Negra 108 Cerro Ñielol 221 Huasco 210-11 gardens, see parks & Parque Nacional Muelle Pesquero 216 Huasco Valley 209-11 gardens Archipielago Juan Palacio de la Moneda 51 Huilo-Huilo Biological gay travelers 448-9 Fernandez 142 Resguardo Marítimo 165 Reserve 253 geography & geology 437-8 Parque Nacional Ruinas de Huanchaca Humberstone 174-5 geysers 16, 148, 160-1, 4, Bosques de Fray 164 16, 156-7 Jorge 199 Teatro Municipal 176 I Gigante de Atacama 174 Parque Nacional history 24, 420-31 Conguillío 227 ice trekking 362-3 Gigantes de Lluta 185 20th century 423-8 Parque Nacional la immigration 455 373 Campana 108-9 21st century 428-31 insect bites 452 Caleta Tortel 333-4 Parque Nacional Laguna books 424, 425, 427, 429 insurance 450, 461 Calluqueo Glacier 332 del Laja 136 civil war 423 internet access 450 Glaciar Martial Parque Nacional Los independence from internet resources 21, 432, (Argentina) 389 Glaciares (North) Spain 422-3 438, 442 Glaciar Perito Moreno 377-8 military coup 426-7 Iquique 167-74, 168 (Argentina) 372 military dictatorship Parque Nacional Isla Chañaral 208 Glacier Grey 363, 5 Nahuelbuta 137-8 426-7 Isla Choros 208 Glacier Montt 333 Parque Nacional Pan de pre-Columbian era 420-1 Isla Damas 209 Glacier Steffens 333 Azúcar 219 Spanish occupation 421-2 Isla Magdalena 341, 343 Parque Nacional Los Parque Nacional hitchhiking 461 Isla Mancera 248 Glaciares (North) 377-8 Patagonia 330-1 holidays 451-2 Isla Margarita 266 Parque Nacional Los Parque Nacional Pumalín Horcón 105 Glaciares (South) 302-3 Isla Mechuque 285 Hornopirén 300-2 372-4 Parque Nacional Queulat Isla Navarino 384-8 horseback riding 36-7 Parque Nacional Queulat 312-13 Isla Negra 108 Cascada de las 312-13 Parque Nacional Radal Animas 85 Isla Pan de Azúcar 218-19 Gran Torre Santiago 59 Siete Tazas 119 Easter Island 405 Isla Quinchao 286-8 474 Isla Robinson Crusoe 19, Lakes District 18, 249-76 Mistral, Gabriela 53, 206 Museo Arqueológico de 138-42, 139, 19 land-sailing 37 moai 12, 403, 411, 412, 413, Santiago 53 Isluga 175 landscapes 23-4 414, 415, 12, 154 Museo Arqueológico San itineraries 28-32, 52, 28, languages 20, 463-8 mobile phones 20, 453 Miguel de Azapa 185 29, 30, 32 courses 62-3, 95, 116, money 20, 21, 450-1 Museo Casa-Escuela Gabriela Mistral 206 170, 180, 194 Monte Tronador 265

INDEX INDEX Museo Corbeta legal matters 450 Monte Verde 271 K Esmeralda 167, 169 lesbian travelers 448-9 Montegrande 204, 206 kayaking 37, see also rafting Museo de Achao 287-8 libraries 51, 164 Monumento Arqueológico Cajón del Maipo 83 Museo de Arqueología

I-M Valle del Encanto 200  Castro 291 Limarí Valley 200-1 e Historia Francisco literature 434-5, see also Monumento Nacional Isla Coyhaique 314 Fonck 101-2  de Cachagua 105 books Museo de Colchagua 113 Futaleufú 306, 307, 33 Monumento Natural Dos llamas 438 Museo de Historia Parque Nacional Torres Lagunas 314 Llanada Grande 270 Natural 89 del Paine 363 Monumento Natural El Lluta geoglyphs 185 Museo de la Memoria y Pucón 234-6, 237 Morado 86 Los 33 211-12, 215, 430 los Derechos Puerto Varas 257, 258 Monumento Natural Islotes Los Andes 109-10 Humanos 56 Punta Arenas 343 de Puñihuil 283 Los Angeles 135 Museo de la Moda 61 Puyuhuapi 311 Monumento Natural La Los Ríos 243-9 Museo de Limari 201 Río Baker 330 Portada 164 Museo de Sitio Colón Lota 129 Monumento Natural Los kitesurfing 37 10 177 Pingüinos 19, 341, 19 Museo de Tierra del Monumento Natural Salar L M Fuego 382 Magallanes Region 340-9 de Surire 189 La Araucanía 14, 221, Museo de Volcanes 253 Maicolpué 250 Monumentos históricos 224-43 Nacionales Puerto Museo del Fin del Mundo La Chascona 54-5 Maipo Valley 81-2, 132 Hambre 348-9 389 La Confluencia 329 Maitencillo 105 motorcycle travel 456, Museo del Presidio 389 La Junta (Northern Mamiña 175 460-1 Museo del Recuerdo Patagonia) 309-10 Mano del Desierto 167 mountain biking 36, see 341-2 La Junta (Río Cochamó maps 450 also bicycling Museo Entomologico e Valley) 268-9 Mapuche people 137, Parque Nacional Torres Historia Natural 202 La Parva 87 221, 421 del Paine 363 Museo Ex Ballenera 107 La Sebastiana 95 markets Pucón 234, 236 Museo Gabriela Mistral 202 La Serena 192-7, 192 Antofagasta 165 Puerto Varas 257 Museo Histórico 350 La Tirana 175-6 Castro 289 Punta Arenas 342 Museo Histórico Alemán Lago Argentino 372 Chillán 123 mountaineering 34-5 255 Lago Caburgua 241 Cochrane 332 Muelle de la Luz 284 Museo Histórico Dalcahue 285 Muelle de las Almas 294 Lago Cachet 2 442 Arqueológico Municipal Lago Chungará 188 Horcón 202 Muelle de Pasajeros 169 230-1 Lago Cochrane 331 La Serena 193 mummies, Chinchorro 185, Museo Histórico Casa Lago Elizalde 314 Puerto Montt 271 186, 420 Gabriel González Lago Fagnano (Argentina) Santiago 51 museums, see also art Videla 193 399-400 Valdivia 244-5 galleries & art museums, Museo Histórico Kami cultural centers Lago General Carrera 326 Valparaíso 89 399 Casa de Isla Negra 108 Lago Rosselot 314 Matanzas 115 Museo Histórico Casa de la Cultura 322 Nacional 52 Lago Todos Los Santos 265 Maule Valley 120-2 Casa Tornini 216 Museo Histórico y Lago Verde 314 Maunga Pu A Katiki 413 Centro de Visitantes Antropológico 245 Laguna Amarga 358 Maunga Terevaka 412 Inmaculada Museo Histórico y de Laguna Ana 349 measures 452 Concepción 279 Armas 179 Laguna Cejar 159 medical services 78, 449 Glaciarium (Argentina) Museo Interactivo Laguna Chaxa 159 Melipeuco 230 367 Mirador 58 Laguna de Los Témpanos Middle Chile 40, 88-142, Instituto de la Patagonia Museo Intercultural 312 90-1 341-2 Trawupeyüm 243 Laguna Miñiques 159 accommodations 88 Museo Acatushún 397 Museo Lukas 93 Laguna Miscanti 159 climate 88 Museo Antiguo Museo Mapuche 137 Laguna Negra 242 food 88 Monasterio del Museo Marítimo 389 Espíritu Santo 109-10 highlights 90-1 Museo Marítimo travel seasons 88 Museo Antropológico Nacional 95 Map Pages 000 Sebastián Englert 403 mining 129, 211-12, 215, 430 Museo Martín Gusinde Photo Pages 000 Museo Arqueológico 193 Mirador Alto la Paloma 287 385 475 Museo Minero de Tierra Parque Nacional Los newspapers 452 Cerro Santa Lucía 52 Amarilla 212 Glaciares (South) Niebla 248 Jardín Botánico Museo Naval 170 372-4 nightlife 22-3, see also Mapulemu 55 Museo Naval y Marítimo Parque Nacional individual locations Jardín Botánico Nacional 341 Nahuelbuta 137-8 Norte Chico 41, 190-219, 101 Museo Pioneros del Parque Nacional Nevado 191 Jardín del Corazón 192-3 Tres Cruces 214 Baker 329-30 accommodations 190 Jardín Japonés 55 INDEX Parque Nacional Pali Museo Regional 165, 169 climate 190 Monumento Natural El Aike 349 Museo Regional de food 190 Morado 86 Ancud Aurelio Bórquez Parque Nacional Pan de Parque Bicentenario 61 Azúcar 218-19 highlights 191  M-P Canobra 279 Parque Botánico Isidora Parque Nacional travel seasons 190  Museo Regional de Cousiño 129 Castro 289-90 Patagonia 16, 330-1, 16 Norte Grande 41, 143-89, 144-5 Parque de las Museo Regional de La Parque Nacional Pumalín Esculturas 58 302-4, accommodations 143 Araucanía 221 325 Parque del Estrecho de climate 143 Museo Regional de Parque Nacional Magallanes 348-9 Puyehue 252-4 food 143 Magallanes 341 Parque Ecuador 128 Parque Nacional Queulat highlights 144-5 Museo Río Seco 341 Parque Forestal 53-4 312-13 history 146 Museo Violeta Parra 52-3 Parque Natural Parque Nacional Radal Museu Regional de travel seasons 143 Karukinka 384 Siete Tazas 119-20 Atacama 212 Parque por 63 Parque Nacional Rapa RA Philippi Museo de la Parque Prochelle 245 Exploración 245 Nui 411-13 O Parque Nacional Tierra observatories Parque Punta Curiñanco del Fuego (Argentina) Cerro Paranal 248-9 N 398-9 Observatory 166-7 Parque Quinta Normal national parks & reserves Parque Nacional Torres La Silla Observatory 158 56-7 443-4 del Paine 11, 358-67, Observatorio 125 Parque Quinta Vergara 101 Parque Nacional 359, 10-11, 156-7 Observatorio Cerro Archipielago Juan Parque Nacional Vicente Mamalluca 205 Parque Saval 245 Fernandez 142 Pérez Rosales 265-6, Observatorio Collowara Parque Tagua-Tagua 269 Parque Nacional 265 205 Parque por la Paz 63 Bernardo O’Higgins Parque Nacional Observatorio del Pangue Parque Tantauco 295-6 358 Villarrica 240-1 205 Paso del Agua Negra 208 Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Volcán Observatorio passports 455 Bosques de Fray Isluga 175 Interamericano Cerro Jorge 199 Patagonia, Argentine 367-78 Parque Nacional Tololo 205 Parque Nacional Cerro Patagonia, Northern 42, Yendegaia 384 Ocoa 108 Castillo 320 297-337, 298-9 Reserva Nacional Altos O’Higgins, Bernardo 422 accommodations 297 Parque Nacional Chiloé de Lircay 122-3 294-5 Ojos del Caburgua 241 climate 297 Reserva Nacional Ojos del Salado 214-15 Parque Nacional Coyhaique 314 food 297 Conguillío 226-8, opening hours 21, 451 14 Reserva Nacional Lago highlights 298-9 Ceremonial Village Parque Nacional Jeinimeni 326 history 300 Hornopirén 300 412 Reserva Nacional Las travel seasons 297 oroya fever 449 Parque Nacional Vicuñas 189 travel to/within 300 Huerquehue 242-3, Osorno 249-52 Reserva Nacional Los Patagonia, Southern 42, , Ovalle 201 2 18 Flamencos 158-9 338-78, 339 Parque Nacional Isla Reserva Nacional accommodations 338 Magdalena 313 Malalcahuello-Nalcas P climate 338 Parque Nacional la 228-30 Paine Circuit 358, 361-2 food 338 Campana 108-9 Reserva Nacional Palacio Cousiño 51 highlights 339 Parque Nacional Laguna Pingüino de Humboldt del Laja 135-6 208-9 Palena 309 history 340 Parque Nacional Laguna Reserva Nacional Río Papa Vaka petroglyphs 413 travel seasons 338 San Rafael 327-8, 324 Clarillo 85 Papudo 105 travel to/within 340 Parque Nacional Lauca Reserva Nacional Río paragliding 37 Patio Bellavista 55 188-9, 155 Simpson 320 parks & gardens, see penguins Parque Nacional Llanos Reserva Nacional also national parks & Humboldt 105, 208, 209, de Challe 211 Tamango 332 reserves 218, 283, 438-9 Parque Nacional Los Neruda, Pablo 54-5, 108, Centro de king 343, 382, 439 Glaciares (North) 435 Interpretación 403 Magellanic 19, 283, 341, 377-8 New Year’s Eve 27, 96 Cerro San Cristóbal 55 343, 439, 156 476 Peninsula de Rilán 288-9 Puerto Varas 256-63, 258 Río Cochamó Valley 268-9 Centro 45, 50-3, 65-6, Península Poike 413 Puerto Williams 17, 385- Río de las Cascadas 313 68-9, 48-9 Petrohué 266 8, 17 Río Grande (Argentina) children, travel with 58 Pica 172 Puerto Yungay 334-5 400 climate 44 Pichilemu 115-18 Pukará de Lasana 150 Río Hurtado Valley courses 62-3 Piñera, Sebastián 295, 430 Pukará de Quitor 158 199-200 drinking & nightlife

INDEX INDEX Pinochet, Augusto 426-9 412 Río Liucura Valley 241-2 16, 72-4 Pintados 176 Punta Arenas 340-8, 342 Río Puelo 269-70 El Golf 59-61, 68, 72, 74 Pirque 85 accommodations 344-5 road trips entertainment 74-5

P-S Pisagua 176 activities 342 Carretera Austral 15, festivals & events 64-5  301, 7, 15, 324-5 food 16, 44, 68-72

pisco 202, 206, 448 drinking & nightlife  Valle Exploradores 326 Pisco Elqui 206-7 346-7 highlights 46-7 Valle Mirta 314 planning, see also festivals & events 344 history 45 individual regions food 345-6 Route 11 Highway 185-6, information 77-8 activities 24, 25-7, 33-7 history 340-1 188-9 itineraries 52 budgeting 21 information 347 Las Condes 59-61, 68, calendar of events 25-7 shopping 347 S 72, 74, 62 children, travel with sights 341-2 safety 77, 100, 452 Ñuñoa 72, 74 38-9, 58 tours 343-4 159 Providencia 58, 68, 71, Chile basics 20-1 travel to/from 347-8 salmon 441 73-4, 60 Chile’s regions 40-2 travel within 348 Salto del Laja 134-5 shopping 75-7 government travel Punta de Lobos 116 San Alfonso 85-6 sights 45-61 advice 451 tours 63-4 Putre 186-8, 31 San Juan Bautista 139-42, internet resources 21 Puyuhuapi 311-12 140 travel seasons 44 itineraries 28-32, 28, 29, San Pedro de Atacama travel to/from 78-80 30, 32 146-58, 148, 157 travel within 80-1 travel seasons 20, 25-7 Q accommodations 150-1 Vitacura 59-61, 68, 72, 74 Quebrada de Jere 159 plants 439-40 activities 146-7 Saxamar 183 Queilén 295 Playa La Virgen 219 climbing 147 Selkirk, Alexander 141 Quellón 296 Plaza de Armas drinking & nightlife 153 shopping 452-3, see also (Santiago) 51 Quemchi 283-5 festivals & events 150 individual locations Plaza de Juegos Infantiles Quintay 107-8 food 151-3 Siete Tazas 119 Gabriela Mistral 55 history 146 skiing 15, 35-6, 15 poetry 434-5 R information 153 Antillanca 254 politics 418-19, 431, 432 radio 452 sights 146-7 Parque Nacional Laguna Pomaire 82-3 del Laja 136 rafting 37, see also tours 147-50 population 419, 433 Parque Nacional kayaking travel to/from 153, 158 Portillo 110-11 Villarrica 241 Cajón del Maipo 83 travel within 158 Porvenir 382-3 Portillo 110-11 Coyhaique 314 sand-boarding 37, 147 postal services 451 Futaleufú 306, 307 Reserva Nacional Santa Cruz 113-15 Malalcahuello-Nalcas public holidays 451-2 Palena 309 Santa Laura 174-5 229 Pucón 234-40, 235, 241 Pucón 234-6, 237 Santiago 11, 40, 44-81, Termas de Chillán 125 Puelo Valley 270 Puerto Varas 257 46-7, 84, 11 Tres Valles 87 Puente Gamboa Mirador Río Baker 330 accommodations 44, 289 Ushuaia (Argentina) 389 412, 23 65-8 Puerto Bertrand 329-30 Volcán Osorno 265 18, 413, 18 activities 61-2 Puerto Fonck 256 smog 452 Rapa Nui, see Easter Island Barrio Bellas Artes 53-4, snorkeling 403-4 Puerto Guadal 329 (Rapa Nui) 66, 69-70, 72-3 Socaire 159 Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez Rapa Nui language 464 Barrio Bellavista 54-6, 321-2 soccer 75 Raúl Marín Balmaceda 311 66-7, 70, 73, 54, 2 Socoroma 185 Puerto Montt 270-6, 272 reciprocity fees 456 Barrio Brasil 56-8, 67, Spanish language 463-8 Puerto Natales 349-57, religion 419 70-1, 73, 57 350-1 subway travel 462 Reñaca 105 Barrio Italia 58, 67-8, 71, Puerto Octay 256 Sur Chico 41, 220-76, reserves, see national 73, 59 222-3 Puerto Río Tranquilo 326-7 parks & reserves Barrio 53-4, 66, accommodations 220 responsible tourism 146 69-70, 72-3 climate 220 ridesharing 462 Barrio Recoleta 56, 73 food 220 Map Pages 000 Río Baker 329-30 Barrio Yungay 56-8, 67, 70-1, 73, highlights 222-3 Photo Pages 000 Río Caburgua Valley 241-2 57 477 history 221 Góndola Carril 110 vicuñas 438 wine 13, 24, 130-3 travel seasons 220 Tren Sabores del Valle 113 Villa Amengual 313 wine regions 24 surfing 12, 37, 12, 35 travel to/from Chile 455-7 Villa Cerro Castillo 320-1 Casablanca Valley 106-7 Arica 179-80 travel within Chile 457-62 Villa O’Higgins 335-7 Colchagua Valley 112-15, Easter Island 404 trekking, see hiking Villarrica 230-4, 231 2, 132-3 Iquique 170 Tres Valles 86-7 Viña del Mar 101-6, 102-3 Maipo Valley 81-2, 132 Pichilemu 116 TV 452 vineyards, see wineries Maule Valley 120-2, 13 INDEX swimming 37, 61, 62 visas 20, 454 wineries volcanoes 437, 452 Casa Donoso 120

U  S-Z Catrala 106 T UFO-spotting 122, 137, 207 Crater Morada del Diablo

 Cavas del Valle 202 349 Talca 121-2, 119 Última Esperanza 349-67 Maunga Pu A Katiki 413 Emiliana 106 Tapati Rapa Nui 25-6, Ushuaia (Argentina) 389- Melimoyu 314 Estampa 112 406, 26 98, 390-1 Ojos del Salado 214-15 taxis 462 accommodations 392-4 House of Morandé 107 Parque Nacional Pali telephone services 20, 453 activities 389-92 Lapostolle 113 Aike 349 Lugarejo 112 Temuco 221, 224-6, 224-5 drinking & nightlife 396 Rano Raraku 413 Montes 113 Tenaún 287 entertainment 396 Volcán 264 MontGras 112 Termas de Chillán 125-6 food 394-6 Volcán Chaitén 305 Tabalí 200 Termas de Puyuhuapi 318 information 396-7 Volcán Descabezado 122 Torreón de Paredes 112 Termas de Socos 200-1 shopping 396 Volcán Isluga 175 Via Wines 120 Termas Geométricas 232 sights 389 Volcán 226-7 Viña Aquitania 82 Termas Valle de Colina 86 travel to/from 397-8 Volcán Osorno 265-6 Viña Balduzzi 120 Terraza Bellavista 55 travel within 398 Volcán Puntiagudo 265 Viña Casa Silva 112 Territorio Mapu Lahual 250 Uyuni (Bolivia) 153 Volcán Puyehue 252 Viña Casas del Bosque theft 452 Volcán Villarrica 240 107, 132 thermal springs, see hot V volunteering 454 springs Viña Concha y Toro vacations 451-2 82, Tierra del Fuego 42, 379- 131 Valdivia 243-8, 244 Viña Cousiño Macul 82 400, 380-1 W Valle de la Luna 14, 147, Viña De Martino 82 accommodations 379 ‘W’, the 358, 360-1, 159, 14, 23, 31, 155 360-1 climate 379 Viña Gillmore 120 Valle de la Muerte 158 walking, see hiking food 379 Viña Indómita 106, 130 Valle del Encanto 200 water 449-50 highlights 380-1 Viña J Bouchon 120 Valle Las Trancas 125-6 waterfalls history 382 Viña Las Niñas 113 Valle Mirta 314 Cascada de la Virgen travel seasons 379 320 Viña Mar 107 Vallenar 209-10 travel within 382 Cascada de las Viña Matetic 107 Valparaíso 19, 89, 92-101, Animas 85 Viña Santa Cruz 112-13 Tignamar 183 92-3 Salto de Las Chilcas 136 Viña Santa Rita 82 time 20, 453 accommodations 96-7 Salto del Laja 134-5 Viña Undurraga 82 tipping 451 courses 95 Salto del Torbellino 136 Viña Veramonte 107, 131 toilets 453 drinking & nightlife 99 Salto Grande 362 Viu Manent 112 Tolhuin (Argentina) festivals & events 96 399-400 Salto la Leona 119 William Cole Vineyards food 97-9 Tompkins, Douglas 335 Saltos del Petrohué 266 107 history 89 Tompkins, Kristine 335 Velo de la Novia 119 work 454 information 100 Tongoy 199 weather 20, 25-7, see shopping 99-100 tourist cards 454 also individual regions sights 89-95 Y tourist information 453-4 websites 21, 432, 438, 442 tours 95-6 yoga 352 tours 462, see also weights 452 travel to/from 100 individual locations whale watching 343, 439 travel within 101 train travel 457, 462 whales 439 Z Ventisquero Colgante 312 Zapallar 105 Ferrocarril Arica- wildlife 22, 438-40, see Poconchile 177 Vicuña 201-4, 15 also individual species zoos 55-6 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 478

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway/Subte station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Regis St Louis Norte Grande, Norte Chico Regis grew up in a small town in the American Mid- west – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Follow him on www. instagram.com/regisstlouis. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide,Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Carolyn McCarthy Northern Patagonia, Southern Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego Carolyn specializes in travel, culture and adventure in the Americas. She has written for National Geo- graphic, Outside, BBC Magazine, Sierra Magazine, the Boston Globe and other publications. A former Fulbright fellow and Banff Mountain Grant recipient, she has documented life in the most remote corners of Latin America. Carolyn has contributed to 40 guidebooks and anthologies for Lonely Planet, including Colo- rado, USA, Argentina, Chile, Trekking in the Patagonian Andes, Panama, Peru and USA’s National Parks. Visit www.carolynmccarthy.org or follow her Instagram travels @mccarthyoffmap. Carolyn also wrote the Plan, Understand Chile and Survival Guide sections of this book.

Cathy Brown Tierra del Fuego Cathy is a travel writer (Lonely Planet, OARS, Luxury Latin Amer- ica) and editor (Matador Network). She lives with her three kids in the Andes of Argentine Patagonia, where she hikes, gardens, drinks Malbec, works with me- dicinal herbs and indigenous cultures, and is building a straw-bale house. She’s passionate about any adventure travel, including surfing, rafting, skiing, climbing and trekking, and works closely with the Adventure Travel Trade Association.

Mark Johanson Santiago, Middle Chile, Easter Island (Rapa Nui) Mark grew up in Virginia and has called five different countries home over the last decade. His travel-writing ca- reer began as something of a quarter-life crisis, and he’s happily spent the past eight years circling the globe reporting for Australian travel magazines (such as Get Lost), British newspapers (such as the Guardian), American lifestyles (such as Men’s Journal) and global media outlets (such as CNN and BBC). When not on the road, you’ll find him gazing at the Andes from his home in Santiago.

Kevin Raub Sur Chico, Chiloé Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written nearly 50 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Raub also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad).

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