No. 55 – February 2015

The Journal

Lorton & Derwent Fells Local History Society Brackenthwaite Buttermere Embleton Loweswater Mockerkin Pardshaw Whinfell Wythop www.derwentfells.com

Scale Force, by Thomas Allom, oils, 1841 or later. Reproduced by kind permission of the Wordsworth Trust, Dove Cottage, Grasmere 2

The Journal Thomas Allom’s prints of Six months ago I was wondering how to fill Derwent Fells this edition of the Journal and now I find it by Michael Winstanley difficult to keep within 24 pages, even holding some over until August. Many members will remember the talk which Dr Michael Winstanley gave in May 2013 on Thomas Allom, and so I was pleased to receive an exposition of Allom’s illustrations of our local scenes. It is a co- incidence that the article which Michael and I wrote in 2009 about Isabella Huxtable, nee Nixon, is also followed up in this article. This follows family research by Blair Nixon from Canada, a descendant of the Lorton Nixons, who read our Journal online. Our cover image (it will be in colour on the website) of Scale Force by Thomas Allom is by courtesy of the Wordsworth Trust, which has kindly supported a number of our projects over the years. Please consider supporting them by visiting Dove Cottage, the Wordsworth Museum and its special exhibition ‘Grasmere and the Great War’, until 1st March. Which is my cue to ask members to consider writing and contributing more WWI articles on our locality – we still have three years. Derek Denman In 1832 a young Londoner toured the L&DFLHS 2014-15 northern counties of making sketches. On his return he worked up President Professor Angus Winchester some of his sketches as watercolours Financial Examiner Peter Hubbard which he entered into the Society of British Artists’ annual exhibition the following Officers and Committee 2014-15 year.1 Superficially his journey resembled Chairman Charles Lambrick those undertaken by many of his Vice–Chairman Dr John Hudson contemporaries who followed in the Secretary Sandra Shaw footsteps of William Gilpin in search of Treasurer Christopher Thomas spiritual stimulation and ‘picturesque’ Committee members:- landscapes. But this young man was no Anne Asquith Membership such tourist. Dr Derek Denman Journal, website The artist’s name was Thomas Allom Richard Easton Talks and he had been commissioned by Henry Walter Head Fisher, Son and Co. to provide drawings Dorothy Hind for a new publication, Westmoreland, Tim Stanley-Clamp , Durham and Northumberland Illustrated to be published in monthly Contents of Journal No. 55 instalments at 1s (5p) each between 1832 Thomas Allom’s prints of Derwent Fells 2 A walk in Embleton and Wythop in the 1 1950s 11 Allom exhibited eight watercolours of Westmorland, Cumberland, Durham and The Hamlet of Hames 14 Northumberland at the Society of British Artists What became of John Elliott Huxtable – in 1833 (no 531); in 1834 he exhibited some mysteries solved 19 Ullswater (75) Birker Force (154). J. Johnson, The Society’s programme 24 (compiler), Works exhibited at the Royal Society of British Artists (Woodbridge, 1975), p. 7. 3 and 35. The preface to the collection Copper plates, used by Joseph Farington in boasted that the images represented ‘the his series of views in 1789, had a relatively Augustan Age of Pictorial Art’, creating ‘a short life before they lost their sharpness refined taste throughout the nation for and usually required a large format to faithful and vivid delineations of native show fine detail. William Green had scenery’. The complete publication experimented with soft ground etching in contained 216 prints. Allom was his Sixty Studies from Nature in 1809 but responsible for no less than 189; George one review suggested that his landscape Pickering contributed a further twenty, studies ‘serve to show what soft ground is Henry Gastineau six and the architect John not capable of effecting in landscape- Dobson, one. ‘Historical and Topographical etching’.3 Green’s aquatints, however, Descriptions’ were provided by Thomas widely admired as were those of Theodore Rose. Henry Fielding and John Walton who spent As the title makes clear, this was not a two years in the Lakes and produced 48 guide book to the landscape of the English lavishly coloured scenes in 1821 in their Lakes. There were no maps of suggested Picturesque Tour of the English Lakes, itineraries and viewing points and no Containing a Description of the Most description of a tour. Rather it reflected a Romantic Scenery of Cumberland, broader interest in topography which was Westmoreland, and Lancashire.4 But such then sweeping the country and which volumes had been expensive. Farington’s demanded an accurate portrayal of original collection of just twenty prints places.2 Images of the Lakes appeared retailed at £4 8s and his extended alongside those of less romantic depictions collection of 43 prints with accompanying of Sunderland, Newcastle upon Tyne, text by Thomas Hartwell Horne in 1816 at South Shields and Lymington iron works. 8 or 12 guineas depending on the format;5 These were presented without any obvious William Green’s 60 etchings cost 5 logical order. Yet with 132 illustrations of guineas; Fielding and Walton’s coloured Westmorland and Cumberland it was, and aquatints sold at £3 12s. Even John remains, by far and away the largest Robinson’s, Guide to the Lakes (1819) single published collection of prints of pre- which only contained twenty rather Victorian Lakeland. As well as landscapes, rudimentary prints, retailed at 15 shillings. ruins and castles, the illustrations included Allom’s prints and Rose’s accompanying townscapes, cathedrals, industrial sites, text by contrast retailed for a mere 3d quarries (as in Langdale and each. Reviewers were incredulous, not just Longsleddale), and the houses of leading at fine quality but at the price. ‘We cannot local families: Lowther Castle, Brougham let the works pass without noticing the Hall, Underley Hall, Sizergh, Storrs, price at which they are published – the Naworth, Muncaster, Thirwall, and Wood first part contains no less than seventeen Hall near . views with descriptive letter press for four The illustrations themselves were a shillings.‘ According to the Kendal product of an advance in printing which Chronicle it was ‘one of the cheapest and simultaneously enhanced the quality of most finished works of the kind we have reproductions, extended feasible print ever seen’.6 runs, and dramatically lowered retail The innovation responsible for this was prices. Prior to the 1820s publishers had the perfection of engraving on steel. This struggled to find a medium through which had first been used in publications barely a they could reproduce images of landscape and topographical scenes. They faced one 3 Review of William Green, Sixty Studies from or more three related problems: quality, Nature (Ambleside, 1809) in London Review, quantity and cost. Wood cuts were 1809, p. 358. 4 relatively crude and had a limited life. T. H. Fielding and J. Walton, A Picturesque Tour of the English Lakes, containing a description of the most romantic scenery of 2 For the Lakes guides see especially Peter Cumberland, Westmoreland, and Lancashire Bicknell, The Picturesque Scenery of the Lake (Ackermann, London, 1821). District, 1752-1855 (St Paul’s Bibliographies, 5 Thomas Hartwell Horne, The Lakes of Winchester, 1990); for a general guide see Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland Ronald Russell, Guide to British Topographical (Cadell and Davies, London 1816). Prints (David & Charles, Newton Abbot, 1979). 6 The Athenaeum, 28 July 1832. 4 decade earlier. As a much harder metal work and their respective claims for credit than copper, skilled engravers were able to for this publication. 10 produce finer lines without risk of the surrounding metal collapsing. Loweswater from Water End Consequently both artist and engraver This viewpoint is still clearly identifiable could work on a smaller scale; most of the today from the roadside leading into Water prints were no more than 6” x 4” (152 x End. There had been earlier prints of the 102 mm) faithfully copied from detailed lake by John Warwick Smith (1795) drawings which Allom had worked up in his William Green (1814) and Theodore studio back in London. The reduction in Fielding (1821) but Allom’s view would cost was effected because steel did not appear to be the first published lose its sharpness to the same extent as representation of the lake from this 11 copper allowing for much longer print location. runs.7 Consequently, over the next quarter Rose makes no attempt to locate it or of a century many of Allom’s original describe it. Instead he quotes selectively images were reproduced in foreign editions from Robinson’s reproduction of Thomas or in other books by Fisher and Jackson West’s description of a perspective ‘taken often specifically reworked for the Lake from the round knoll at the lower end of District tourist.8 This made them even the lake’ where ‘the appearance of the more available, and for that reason they mountains that bound it is astonishing’. can often still be found for sale, sadly Neither Robinson nor Rose however makes often with later garish hand-colouring, in clear that West’s description refers not to many antiques shops at inexpensive Loweswater but to the view over prices. Crummock Water from this point. Despite the centrality of Allom’s illustrations to the appeal of the book, You have Mellbreak on the right, and Grasmer however, it is invariably catalogued today on the left, and betwixt them a stupendous amphitheatre of mountains, whose tops are all under Thomas Rose as author of the text. broken and dissimilar, and of different hues, This exploratory article is not directly and their bases skirted with wood, or clothed 9 concerned with who Allom and Rose were. with verdure. In the centre point of this Instead it explores Allom’s four drawings amphitheatre is huge pyramical broken rock, of the Derwent Fells area and Rose’s that seems with its figure to change, as you accompanying letterpress in an attempt to move across the foreground, and gives much 12 assess the quality and originality of their variety to the scenes…

The remainder of Rose’s text consists of an 7 For a discussion of steel engraving see Basil unattributed and slightly altered passage Hunnisett Engraved on Steel; the history of from John Lyde Wilson’s poem, ‘Peace and picture production using steel plates (Ashgate, Aldershot, 1998); Russell, British Topographical Prints, pp. 119-40. 10 In addition he supplied distant views of 8 Thomas Rose, Westmorland its Lake and Cockermouth and Wood Hall and a romantic Mountain Scenery (Peter Jackson, Late Fisher, depiction of border raiders in Honister Pass. Son & Co., 1847); 58 plates after Allom; 11 George Tattersall, The Lakes of England Thomas Rose, Cumberland its Lake and (Sherwood & Co. London, 1836) included a Mountain Scenery (Peter Jackson, 1847) 47 similar view. It was also sketched the same year plates after Allom; Thomas Rose, The British by Edward Lear; Michael Baron, ‘The Excursion Switzerland; or picturesque Rambles in the of Edward Lear to Crummock, Buttermere and English Lake District; comprising a series of Loweswater on 27th & 28th September 1836’, views of the Lake and Mountain scenery in The Journal of the Lorton and Derwent Fells Westmorland, Cumberland, Lancashire, Durham History Society, no. 39 (2007), pp. 1-7. and Northumberland: from drawings taken on 12 John Robinson, A Guide to the Lakes in the spot by Thomas Allom (The London Printing Cumberland, Westmorland and Lancashire and Publishing Co. Ltd., London, & New York, (Lackington etc, London, 1819), pp. 179, 181; 1858) 109 plates after Allom; Thomas Rose, Thomas West, Guide to the Lakes (1789 Lake and Mountain Scenery. Westmorland and edition), p. 138. This is probably the view by Cumberland from drawings on the spot by T. Richard Wilson (or follower) which is in Abbot Allom and G. Pickering (London Printing and Hall Gallery. Publishing Co. Ltd., 1858) 23 plates after Allom. http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/painti 9 This will be the subject of fuller article ngs/crummock-lake-from-near-loweswater- elsewhere. chapel accessed 8 Oct. 2014. 5

Innocence’: ‘Look, where I may a paths which traverse the side of the lake tranquillizing soul..’ but substitutes ‘I’ for below Mellbreak to obtain it. When Edward ‘you’,13 which had no particular connection Baines and his companion had attempted with the place. to traverse this route on horseback in The correct location for the view was 1827 they had found it ‘not only difficult inserted in later editions such as Thomas but really dangerous’, beset with Rose, Cumberland, its Lake and Mountain quagmires and steep cliffs. Baines advised Scenery.14 ‘no person to follow our example’. Crummock Water Allom’s view of this lake is also unusual. Our horse sank so deep in some of the bogs Other artists preferred to sketch from that we were apprehensive he would either viewing ‘stations’ shown on Crosthwaite’s stick fast or break his leg in endeavouring to map of 1794 near the road over Randon get out; the rocks shelve so rapidly to the Knot or Buttermere Hawse, just beyond edge of the lake in one or two parts, that the animal could not pass along the track, and the end of the carriage road above Kirk we were obliged to ride him into the water to Stile Inn or at the end of the footpath from 16 15 get round the base of the rocks. Scale Inn to foot of the lake. Allom’s view, however, is taken from a point to the Rose accurately names the mountains north of Low Ling Crag, which is visible in but he does not make it clear that his text the print. is a paraphrase of a passage from Baines’ It becomes clear from other Companion to the Lakes which described contemporary sources why so few artists the panorama from the end of the lake adopted this perspective. Allom rather than from this point.17 presumably travelled along the indistinct

13 John Wilson Lyde, The Isle of Palms and other poems (Longman etc, Edinburgh, 1812), p. 329. 14 Rose, Cumberland its Lake and Mountain 16 Edward Baines jun., A Companion to the Scenery, p. 67. Lakes of Cumberland, Westmorland and 15 P. Crosthwaite, An Accurate Map of Lancashire (3rd edition, Simpkin & Marshall, Buttermere, Crummock Water and Lowes-water London, 1834), pp. 175-78. Lakes, 1794; West, Guide, p. 136. 17 Baines, Companion, p. 175. 6

we have described, cannot fail to excite rd emotions of reverence… Rose, 1833 Baines 1827 (3 The vast mountain of edition, 1834) Grasmoor, its barren The former Pope’s words were regularly cited to extol sides streaked with [Grasmoor] is an reflection on the divine creation of beds of shale, is seen immense mountain, landscape and environment. Rose’s robed with thunder- whose barren sides intention can be interpreted in this vein. cloud; and are streaked with beds ‘To recognise a supreme power in the dark immediately in front is of shale. The cloud and in the stirring wind, is not the the comparatively low monotony of these mere simplicity of an untutored mind…. but abrupt hill, called ridges is somewhat Randon Knot, broken by a standing in those cloud-roofed temples … extending a bold comparatively low the philosopher and peasant alike [are] promontory into the abrupt hill, called compelled to acknowledge the presence of lake. Randon Knot, which the “God the Mountains”’. stands out into the valley at the foot of God of the mountains at whose will the Grasmoor, and pushes clouds a bold promontory into cluster around the heights who sendeth the Lake. them to send their fertilizing showers, and raise The rest of Rose’s text consists of material the drooping herb, and o’er the thirsty vale which has no relation to the location. It spread their green freshness; at whose voice the hills includes rather ambiguous reflections 19 prompted by a quotation from Alexander grow black with storms. Pope’s Essay on Man’.18 However, this is an extract from Robert If to ‘look through nature up to nature’s God’ Southey’s poem Madoc in Aztlan (1805) is the legitimate object of refined and which bore no relation to the Lakes or sensitive minds, in their contemplations of even to England. It related the adventures material beauty, scenes similar to that which 19 Robert Southey, Poetical Works (Galignani, 18 Alexander Pope, ‘Essay on Man’ (Dublin, Paris, 1829) p. 245. The poem was first 1734). published in 1805. 7 of a mythical Welsh prince who sailed to & the tree – O God! to think of a poor wretch 23 South America. The ‘God of the mountains’ hanging with one arm from it. whose presence Rose apparently urges ‘the philosopher and peasant alike’ to Wordsworth later recalled it as ‘a fine acknowledge was the pagan god Mextili to chasm, with a lofty, though but slender, whom the Aztecas, the local tribe in fall of water’, and Samuel Taylor Coleridge Southey’s poem, were preparing to as a ‘white downfall of which glimmered sacrifice a child companion of Madoc’s. through the trees, that hang before it like 24 Rather than reflect on Pope’s Christian the bushy hair over a madman's eyes’. God, therefore, Rose’s choice of text Rambler (Joseph Palmer), provided a fuller seems to promote ‘enlarged conceptions of description Deity’ among those with ‘refined and sensitive minds’, to imagine the possibility The steep on both sides is covered with that there were darker deities at work in variety of moss, fern, ash, and oak, all fed Nature. Whether this was his intention by constant spray; the flourish in indescribable verdure. The delicacy of the and, if so, how many of his readers were effect is heightened by being in a narrow aware of the origins of the quotation and chasm, a hundred yards in the rock, before able to appreciate it we will never know. it rushes into the lower fall, at the point of Significantly perhaps, all references to which you have a grand view. Clamber up Southey’s poem were omitted when the the left side, and look into the first basin; text was revised for Rose, Cumberland, its and, although you may be wet with spray, Lake and Mountain Scenery.20 you cannot help feeling the solemnity of this deep, this musical abyss, enchanting as 25 Scale Force verdure and melody can make it; … Vol.1 p.64, engraved by J.C. Bentley, 1833 The attractions of Scale Force, the Lakes’ Tourists, however, were reputedly deterred highest waterfall with a 170 foot (51.8m)21 from viewing the force by the difficulty of drop, had long been extolled by writers access. Horne’s description of 1816, for and poets ever since Thomas West made example, was ‘collected from information 26 its existence known to a wider audience. procured chiefly from our guide’. The easiest approaches were by boat across Just in front, between Blea-crag and Mell- the lake from the inns at Scale Hill and break, (two spiral hills) the hoarse Buttermere but even these required an resounding noise of a water-fall is heard uphill climb through difficult ground to across the lake, concealed within the bosom reach the viewing point at the bottom of of the cliff, through which it has forced its the force. Overland access, whether from way, and when viewed from the foot of the Loweswater or Buttermere, was not for the fall, is a most astonishing phaenomenon.22 faint hearted especially if they heeded the

usual advice to view the force after heavy Wordsworth and Coleridge had visited it in rain when the force was at its most 1802. spectacular. As Baines discovered, the

overland route from Buttermere was little The first fall a thin broad white ribbon from a stupendous height; uninterrupted tho’ not better than the path he had taken from impinged by, the perpendicular Rock down Loweswater. Against the advice of the local which it falls, or rather parallel with which – there is no pool at the bottom, but a 23 common shallow brook over flattish small Quoted in Derek Denman, ‘Coleridge and pebbles – but the chasm thro’ which it flows, Wordsworth in the Derwent Fells Townships: is stupendous – so wildly wooded that the 1799-1804’, The Journal of the Lorton and mosses & wet weeds & perilous Tree Derwent Fells History Society, no. 39 (2007), p. increase the Horror of the rocks which ledge 14. 24 only enough to interrupt not stop your fall - William Wordsworth, Guide to the Lakes ((1835 edition) p. xvi. 25 Joseph Budworth (Rambler), A Fortnight’s Rambles in the Lakes in Westmoreland, Lancashire and Cumberland (1792), pp. 193-96. 20 Rose, Cumberland: its Lake and Mountain Budworth later changed his name to Palmer. Scenery, p. 31. 26 Horne, Lakes, pp. 54-55. Rose relies on this 21 Figures vary depending on the criteria used. for with a significant portion of his brief 22 West, Guide to the Lakes, p. 136. description. 8

guide on the boat he and his companion and those who had done had found it set out on the route on the grounds that it difficult to capture the movement of the could not be worse than the one they water or the sublimity of the chasm already taken, but soon had reason to through which it fell. An early crude sketch regret their decision. After sinking into bog by Craig shows two figures on a rock their horse obstinately refused to go any admiring a torrent of water descending further and they were obliged to retrace between bare rocks.28 A more elaborate their steps and take to higher ground aquatint by Fielding and Walton (1821) ‘where there was neither high-way nor shows the fall between verdant vegetation. byeway’ eventually arriving ‘wet and Were it not for the captions viewers could weary’ at the inn and no doubt more be forgiven for thinking that these were mindful of local guides’ advice in the different waterfalls.29 future.27 Rose’s description would also Thomas Allom’s illustration of 1832, have deterred prospective ramblers from however, was a fairly accurate reflection of taking the route. the reality which is still recognisable today even on a relatively dry day. Allom clearly The journey on foot is both dangerous and relished this scene and reproduced it in inconvenient, leading over a rapid river, with only a single plank laid across, and continuing over a boggy pasture along the 28 Possibly William Marshall Craig since John Pye foot of the Red Pike mountain. is known to have done engravings for other prints by Craig. Possibly because of its inaccessibility few 29 Both viewable on Guides to the Lakes artists had attempted to portray the force website, http://www.geog.port.ac.uk/webmap/thelakes/ accessed 28 Nov. 2014. Images taken from 27 Baines, Companion, pp. 175-78. holdings in Dove Cottage, Grasmere. 9 other media. An identical brown and grey acknowledgement, relying again on wash over pencil drawing 8 inches by 12 Robinson who had also quoted Gilpin at inches was sold at Bearne’s Fine Art in length, albeit with credit.36 Rose’s account 2006.30 The Wordsworth Centre at of Mary Robinson, the Maid of Buttermere Grasmere possesses a small (159 x 127 is also a selective paraphrase of sections of mm) oil painting of the scene by Allom, Robinson’s text.37 probably executed a decade later when he began to paint in this medium rather than Rose, 1833, p. 67. Gilpin (3rd edition watercolour (see the front cover).31 1808) p. 232 quoted This is one of the in Robinson 1819, pp. Buttermere smallest lakes, 164-65. Buttermere had more commonly been extending about a mile This lake is small; and half only in length, about a mile and half depicted from an elevated perspective on and a quarter of a mile in length, and a the road over Randon Knot, sometimes in breadth; of an quarter of a mile in with Crummock Water in the foreground as oblong form, and breadth; of an oblong in John Warwick Smith’s aquatint of sweeping at one end form, sweeping at one 1795,32 Joseph Farington’s print of 1816, round a woody end round a woody William Green’s aquatint of 1819 and promontory. The promontory. The Harwood’s rather later impressionistic neighbouring scenery scenery about is grand sketch of 1842.33 J.M.W. Turner’s dramatic is eminently grand and and beautiful. On the picturesque. Along the west side a long range oil painting exhibited in 1798, now in the western side, an of mountainous Tate, was also composed near this extensive range of declivity stretches 34 station, as was one of George Pickering’s mountainous declivity from end to end, two prints of the area which Fisher stretches from one falling every where included in the publication in 1835.35 end, and, to precipitately into the Rose’s text, yet again, did not do appearance, every water; at least it had justice to the scene he was commissioned where fall precipitately that appearance to the to describe. He simply paraphrased parts into the water. The eye, though on the eastern side is woody, spot probably a of Gilpin’s description of the lake without and forms a rich and margin of meadow beautiful contrast to might extend from the 30Blouin Art Sals Index, the other. The vale of bottom of the http://artsalesindex.artinfo.com/asi/lots/524061 Buttermere is rather mountain. The eastern accessed 28 Nov. 2014. confined in that part side of the lake is 31 Reproduced on BBC Your Paintings website, which the lake woody, and contrasts http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/painti occupies, but at the happily with the ngs/scale-force and Wordsworth Trust, outlet is opens, and western … The vale of reference i991.74.2, extends a considerable Buttermere is rather http://collections.wordsworth.org.uk/wtweb/ho distance confined in that part me.asp?page=FA+item+details&mwsquery=%2 which the lake 8{Identity+number}%3D{1991.74.2}%29, occupies. Below it accessed 7 Oct. 2014. Date given on both extends a considerable websites is 1833 but Diana Brooks, Thomas way. Allom 1804-1872 (RIBA, London, 1998), p. 48 dates his oil paintings after 1841. Both Robinson and Rose omitted Gilpin’s 32 John ‘Warwick’ Smith, Views of the Lakes (W. suggestion that the beauty of Buttermere Clarke, London, 1795), plate 13. as a lake was compromised by the ‘woody 33 Horne, Lakes, plate 28; William Green, The promontory’ and that it was best Tourist’s New Guide (Lough & Co, Kendal, appreciated with a ‘levelled eye’ rather 1819), plate 22; John and Frederick Harwood, 38 Views of the Lakes (J. & F. Harwood, London, than ‘elevated one’. 1842), plate 10. 34 http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/painti 36 He was not the first to do so, however; Horne ngs/buttermere-lake-with-part-of- had also made use of Gilpin. cromackwater-cumberland-a-sh117672 37 Rose, Westmoreland, Cumberland etc, pp. 67- accessed 8 Oct. 2014. 68; Robinson, Guide, p. 167. 35 Rose, Westmoreland, Cumberland etc, Mill 38 William Gilpin, Observations on several parts Beck and Buttermere Chapel, engraved by J. of England, particularly the mountains and lakes Starling, and Buttermere Lake and Village, of Cumberland and Westmoreland: relative engraved by D. Buckle. Britnell incorrectly chiefly to picturesque beauty (Cadell and attributes the view of Mill Beck to Allom. Davies, London, 1808 edition), vol. 1. p. 102. 10

frequently reproduced. Rose’s text, by sweeping at one end round a woody contrast, remains largely unread and promontory. This sweep is rather forced; rarely cited by scholars of early Lakeland. and from some points makes too acute an Rose, admittedly, must have faced angle. It is one of those lines which would problems. He was based in London. He have been better effect from a boat. A lower point would soften it’s [sic] abruptness. In does not seem to have had any personal other parts also the lines of this lake are acquaintance with the Lakes. He rather too square. The scenery however presumably had no influence over the about is grand, and beautiful.39 selection of scenes while Allom’s choice of original perspectives further compounded Allom would appear to have the first his problems in composing accurate commercial artist to adopt such a ‘levelled’ descriptions of the views presented to him. perspective, portraying the lake from the Consequently he was obliged to collate his shore near to the Fish Inn.40 This is text from published guides, collections of remarkably accurate in its representation, poems and sagas, some of which were elevating the height of the mountains and unrelated to the scenes depicted. In doing successfully merging the offending this he, like others it should be said, promontory into what appears to be a showed no qualms about plagiarising the seamless lakeside panorama as Gilpin work of others, invariably without intended. acknowledgement. Conclusion But it is clear that Rose’s contribution These case studies of prints of the Derwent was always viewed as secondary to that of Fells area reveal a marked contrast Allom. His name appears before Rose’s on between the quality, originality and the title page and it was his contribution accuracy of Allom’s images and Rose’s on which advertisements and reviews of derivative accompanying commentaries. the book focused. More accurately the Allom’s images retain their value as collection should be referred to as Thomas depictions of early Lakeland and are Allom’s Westmoreland, Cumberland, Durham and Northumberland since, as the 39 Gilpin, Observations, p. 232. title of the book implies, the main 40 A similar viewpoint was adopted George attraction of the book was not the text but Tattersall in 1836, and later in Keeley Halswelle, the illustrations. The English Lakes (T. Nelson & Sons, London, 1859), frontispiece. 11

A walk in Embleton and right was No 2 BRIDGE COTTAGE occupied by Joe Dixon and at No 1 BRIDGE Wythop in the 1950s COTTAGE lived Tom Denham who was by Walter Head followed by Jock & Linda Wise. Over the bridge and a short way up a road to the This article covers the eastern half of right and on the right was THE Embleton, the whole of Wythop and part of CROSSINGS occupied by the Gibson family old , by Bassenthwaite Lake. who ran a small shop. The western part of Embleton will be Back at the junction and taking the covered in the next article. road towards Embleton on the left was Starting at St CUTHBERTS CHURCH, WYTHOP MILL COTTAGE occupied by Mrs Embleton and travelling East the first Gilespie, this was originally the site of property was ROSE BANK the home of Miss Wythop School, next to this was WYTHOP Bowman then again on the right was MILL where Jimmy Sealby, who was the MOORLANDS occupied by Mr & Mrs joiner for Wythop estate, lived. Returning Lewthwaite, next on the left was LOW up the road and turning left towards ABBEY FARM farmed by the Todd family, Bassenthwaite the first property on the left adjacent to this was LOW ABBEY FARM was WAD CRAG occupied by Mr & Mrs COTTAGE 1 which was rented out for Browell, next on the right was WYTHOP holidays and also LOW ABBEY FARM SUNDAY SCHOOL built in 1887 and St COTTAGE 2 occupied by Mr Johnston. The MARGARETS CHURCH built in 1865. The next property on the left was HIGH ABBEY next property on the left was THE RIGGS occupied by Geordie Barnes. The next FARM farmed by Jimmy & Harry Clark, at property on the right of the junction at the No1 RIGGS COTTAGE Ken & Mary Hodgson top of the hill was EMBLETON AND lived and Ernie & Doris Leonard lived at No WYTHOP SCHOOL which closed in 1978. 2 RIGGS COTTAGE. Again on the left was Turning right at this junction into Wythop SALE FELL HOUSE home of the Gibsons the first property on the right up a track and at ROUTENBECK COTTAGE lived Capt off the road was BURTHWAITE occupied by & Mrs O’Donnell. Next on the right was the Hodgson family and next on the left THE VICARAGE occupied by Rev was ESKIN FARM farmed by the Waugh Humphreys. Then on the left was family, then on the right was OLD SCALES ROUTENBECK HOUSE home of Mrs FARM farmed by Dick Graham after this on Cameron and also ORCHARD HOUSE the right was WYTHOP HALL FARM farmed occupied by Mrs Caunce and then on the by Arthur Graham. This was the site of the right was SALE FELL COTTAGE where Miss old silica works. Continuing along this road Armstrong resided. The next properties to the head of the valley was were up a track on the right, No 1 LOWTHWAITE SIDE let out as a holiday FORESTRY COTTAGE occupied by Harry home. Returning back to Eskin Farm, down Bowe and No 2 FORESTRY COTTAGE over the bridge and turning right the road occupied by Charlie McDuff. Back on the led to KELSWICK FARM farmed by Jack & road at the bottom of the hill on the right Jenny Hall. On a track past the farm was of the junction was THE PHEASANT INN the ruins of the old WYTHOP CHAPEL, with proprietor Bobby Borwick. This was replaced by St Margaret’s Church. the location of Embleton cricket club. Retracing our steps back to the school Turning left along the A594 and on the and turning down the hill the first property right just before the railway crossing was on the right was the uninhabited GLOBE Bassenthwaite Lake Station, on the COTTAGE and attached to this was THE Cockermouth, Keswick & Penrith branch, GLOBE occupied by Willy Walker who was tyransferred from the LM&SR to British followed by Joe Garner. The Globe was Railways in 1948. Sammy Whelan was the originally a pub but at this time only sold station master, the station housed a small lemonade. Then on the left was No 1 LAKE post office and Mrs Whelan taught at VIEW COTTAGE home of Ralph Garner and Embleton/Wythop school. Behind the also No 2 LAKE VIEW COTTAGE occupied station were two cottages No 1 STATION by Mrs Marsden. Back on the right was COTTAGE was occupied by the Wilkinson FELL SIDE occupied by Dick & Mary family who were followed by Chris Little Benson then on the right was OAKWOOD home of Nan Benson, further down on the 12 and at No 2 STATION COTTAGE lived the Todhunter family. The Dennam family lived Grimbley family. at No 3 HOW END COTTAGE and at No 2 Continuing over Dubwath Beck into HOW END COTTAGE lived the Setmurthy and forking right towards Ouse Huddlestones. The occupier of No 1 HOW Bridge, on the left there was a pair of semi END COTTAGE is not known. Next on the detached houses, FERN BANK and left was HOW END where the quarry LAVENDER BANK, whose occupiers are not manager Mr Gilliver lived. Continuing just known. Next to this was LAKESIDE, the past the junction, on the right THE home of June Brown (this became a guest WHEATSHEAF INN was in the hands of Bill house in 1954) and then was BARF Simpson who was followed by Mr Hodgson. HOUSE, occupier unknown. Finally came Returning towards the junction, on the THE ELMS, occupied by Mr & Mrs Graham. right the POST OFFICE and SHOP was Returning to the A594, turning sharp unoccupied at this time. On the south west right, and on the right just after the corner of the junction was a row of four junction a small building contained a sweet cottages. No 1 RAKEFOOT COTTAGE was shop run by Mr Walker which also sold occupied by Mr & Mrs Redfern, No 2 artwork. Then on the right came a row of RAKEFOOT COTTAGE was the home of six cottages. In the end cottage at No 6 Charlie & Lillian Neal, Mr Boyd lived at No DUBWATH COTTAGE lived Miss Mason. Bob 3 RAKEFOOT COTTAGE and No 4 Graham was at No 5 DUBWATH COTTAGE RAKEFOOT COTTAGE was the home of and Mr & Mrs Rutherford lived at No 4 George & Mary Crook. DUBWATH COTTAGE. No 3 DUBWATH Taking the road towards Wythop Mill, COTTAGE was occupied by Mr & Mrs Clark. downhill and south to the railway, on the No 2 DUBWATH COTTAGE was home to Mr right was THE VILLAGE HALL and the field & Mrs McShane, and No 1 DUBWATH opposite was used for sports days, next on COTTAGE was occupied by Mrs Ewbank. the left was THE CROSSINGS where the Continuing to the next junction, on the railway crossing gates keeper Tom & Mrs right was BRATHEY HILL FARM farmed by Sanderson lived, the large white crossing the Richardson family. Past the junction, gates were operated by hand prior to the next came HIGHAM LODGE where Mrs station closure in 1958. Ellwood lived and then BULLY HOUSE Crossing the railway, now the A66, on occupied by John & Leslie Cowan, all on the right was LOW NETHERSCALES the right. occupied by the Scott family and also Next on the right, entering Embleton, HIGH NETHERSCALES farmed by Mr Tyson was CLOSE FARM farmed by the Gibson then the Walker family. Then a lane on the family, then still up the hill behind Close right led to No 1 GRAYSTONES COTTAGE Farm was No 1 CLOSE FARM COTTAGE home of Isaac & Mary Jane Sealby and at home of the Charters family, then No 2 No 2 GRAYSTONES COTTAGE lived Mr & CLOSE FARM COTTAGE occupied by the Mrs Bragg. Next on the left was TROUGH Jeffersons and at No 3 CLOSE FARM BRIDGE occupied by Mrs Leathers and also COTTAGE lived Tom Walker. Before the TROUGH BRIDGE COTTAGE home of Mr & quarry, a road on the left led under the Mrs McClaren. railway to HIGH EAST HOUSE FARM On the right beside the river ford was farmed by Mrs Fenwick and also LOW EAST BECKBANK COTTAGE occupied by the HOUSE FARM farmed by the Craghill Garner family and then on the left was family. Continuing west on the A594, next HEATHER VIEW the home of Parker came the quarry sidings on the left. The Garner. The last property to be noted on quarry ceased operations in 1950. THE this walk, on the right, was BECKBANK QUARRY OFFICE and associated buildings FARM farmed by Ike Gardner. From here were behind How Close cottages on the we take the ancient Seacross Lonning to left. No 1 HOW CLOSE COTTAGE was the west, rejoining the road near where Mr Tyson lived, and Mrs Bell lived at Moorlands and returning to St Cuthbert’s No 2 HOW CLOSE COTTAGE. Church. The next property on the right was THE CHAPEL built in 1863 The next properties My thanks to Dorothy Graves and Howard on the right was a row of four cottages. At Todd for their help with item. No 4 HOW END COTTAGE lived the 13

14

The Hamlet of Hames map of 1774 (fig.1) assigns the name by Roger Asquith ‘Hames Hill’ to a house in the area where building stones and hints of wall lines were The next time you drive up Goat Brow, observed. The 1840 Tithe Map, bearing the heading out of Cockermouth towards title ‘Hamlet of Hameshill’ (fig.2), shows or , take a look across to no habitation with Hameshill as an your right just opposite the /Belle ‘independent’ entity surrounded by the Vue turning and spare a thought for the Townships of Papcastle and . long forgotten inhabitants of Hames, Comparison of the 1774 and 1840 maps otherwise known as Hameshill. (Not to be shows the Roman/medieval road still in confused with the present inhabitants of use at the earlier date with the turnpike Hames Hall! Now a care home, this road built by 1840 (i.e. c 1825). building lies outside Hameshill, it was built as Derwent Lodge in 1846 and confusingly Early History of Hames 1 On the origins of ‘Hames’ as a place/field renamed Hames Hall in the 1870s. ) The name, The Place-Names of Cumberland story of Hameshill predates ‘Hames Hall’ states: ‘this can hardly be other than the by six hundred years or more and shows northern plural of the Old English ham’.2 what can be discovered by investigating While -ham is a common suffix meaning those enigmatic lumps and bumps in the settlement or homestead as in Brigham, it corner of a field. The signs in question can also mean enclosure, as in Dearham, were noted while surveying just north of i.e. deer enclosure. The place name Cockermouth, along the line of the Hames, however, seems to be unique in Roman/medieval road from Papcastle to Britain; if the derivation was simply from Bridekirk and Carlisle, as part of the homesteads or enclosures it ought to be Roman heritage Discovering Derventio common, though some additional project. descriptive element would surely be While the earliest OS map (c 1860) needed. It seems more likely, therefore, shows neither house nor farm, Donald’s that the place name derives from the personal name Hames which was, supposedly, Norman, introduced into England after 1066. An IPM (Inquisition Post Mortem) on the death of Adam del Hames in 1315 states: ‘Adam held Le Hames in Papecastre: a messuage and 100 acres of land, held of the king in chief as of the barony of Alredal by service of 2s yearly’.3 (He also had holdings in Setmurthy and Lorton.) This indicates that

2 The Place-Names of Cumberland, Part 2.’ 1 Armstrong, A.M., 1971. Papcastle History, Apperley, Eric, 2009. 3 Cal. Inq. p.m. V, no. 560. 15

Hames was a freehold estate, independent Hamlet as 163 statute acres (almost of neighbouring manors and suggests that exactly 100 x 1.62) suggesting that the del Hames family was, to some Hames, as shown in Fig.2, corresponds to degree, nobility rather than tenant of a the del Hames holding of medieval times. manorial lord. (An IPM was a local enquiry The Registry of the Priory of St. Bees into the lands held by deceased people of records the gift of property in Whitehaven status, i.e ‘tenants in chief’ who held land to the Priory by John del Hames in 1331.6 directly from the king.) The term Another John del Hames was a ‘man-at ‘messuage’ (i.e. ‘that area of land taken up arms’ defending Carlisle Castle against by a house and its associated buildings Scottish raids in 1383/4.7 In 1385 ‘John and land’) and the ‘del Hames’ family del Haymes and Stephen Barwis hold name would point to there being a freely their land of Haymes with common residence of status on the estate before of pasture by service of 2s per annum for 1315. There are indications of a rather all services and fealty’.8 earlier date than 1315 for this occupation The family connection between del at Hameshill. Lambert de Multon made an Hames and Barwis is not known but by (undated) award of iron ore from his mine 1398 Hames was held by Stephen Barwis to the monks of Holme Cultram, with alone.9 There is no evidence to prove that Reginald del Hames included in the list of del Hames family members were witnesses.4 The de Multon family arms themselves still living at Hames in the late appear above Cockermouth Castle gate house. As Lambert had died by 1247, Reginald del Hames was ‘in business’ before 1247 and, presumably, the Hameshill estate and residence also predate this time. It is relevant to consider the ‘100 acres of land’ attached to ‘Le Hames’. Most commonly in Cumberland one customary acre was equivalent to 1.62 statute acres.5 The schedule to the tithe map of 1840 (fig. 2) gives Hames 6 The Register of the Priory of St. Bees, ed. James Wilson, Surtees Society, 1915 4 7 D/AY/1/2 (CRO Carlisle). ‘A List of the Garrison at Carlisle Castle, 1383’, 5 ‘The Customary Acre: An Indeterminate William Cook, TCWAAS, Series III, Vol. VII. 8 Measure’, Robert S. Dilley, The Agricultural D/LEC/314/16 (CRO Whitehaven). 9 History Review, 1975, Vol. 13.2 Cal. Inq. p.m. XVII, no.1247 (p 470). 16

14 C, nor is there evidence that a Barwis The Brumfield house appears to have took up residence. The relevant branch of been replaced by what became known as the Barwis family lived at Islekirk (in the Hames Hill House, in field 6 on the tithe parish of Westward), owned by the Abbey map (fig. 2). The field name corresponding of Holme Cultram, before the Dissolution, to no. 5 on the map is ‘Hutton Croft’ (the and acquired the freehold in 1544.10 word ‘croft’ indicating land with a house), Richard Barwis inherited the land at placing the second Hameshill ‘messuage’ Hameshill i.e. ‘two messuages with sixty here, alongside the ‘Stack Yard’, number acres of land, twenty acres of meadow, 28 on the Tithe Map. Pinpointing the del twenty acres of pasture’ (100 customary Hames house of the 13th/14th centuries is acres total), as well as other manors and clearly more of a problem. It may have property, on his father’s death in 1616. He been on one of the two sites noted above, was a notable figure in the county of or perhaps in ‘Round Close’, field 35 in fig. Cumberland, being MP for Carlisle for 2. The shape of the enclosure, on the edge many years and played a prominent part of the estate, suggests an early date, and on the Parliamentary side in the Civil a nearby well (‘disused’ on later maps) War.11 After Richard Barwis died (without would be consistent with an early house issue) in 1648, his widow Frances held here. Two houses now standing in this SW Hames, Islekirk and other property until corner of Hameshill (Hames Hall her death in 1670. Richard had made Gatehouse and Little Hames) are relatively provision to ensure continuing Barwis modern. family possession by conditional sale in 1647.12 No information has yet been found The Brumfields, the plague and the regarding Barwis interest in Hameshill Senhouses. after 1670. Given the size of their land holding it may be expected that the Brumfields would The Hutton and Brumfield families – have been moderately prosperous, with a neighbours at Hameshill house/ farm of some status. Several Hameshill in 1647 comprised one house Brumfield wills, with inventories, exist for and land (i.e. a ‘messuage and tenement’) the parish of Bridekirk, dating between in the occupation of Thomas Brumfield, 1574 and 1631. Only the will of Thomas and a second house and land occupied by Brumfield Senior ‘of Hameshill’, indicates Robert Hutton.13 Each paid 26s 8d yearly the dwelling place.15 In the main his will is rent. At 50 customary (80 statute) acres typical of a Cumberland farmer of the time each these represent large holdings for the – value of goods and chattels (not land or period, able to support extended families property) being £31 12s 2d. ‘One bed with but also requiring a significant work force. bed clothes in the bower’, value 10s, The Huttons were at Hameshill in 1626, indicates the traditional simple farmhouse and probably well before, the family being with the ‘master bedroom’ on the ground recorded in the Bridekirk Parish Registers floor next to the ‘firehouse’. His two other from the start of the records in 1585.14 bedsteads (value 5s) would have been in The name ‘John Brumfield of Hayms’ the loft above. The limited livestock (one appears in the Papcastle Manor Court stott i.e. a bullock, one heifer and a few records for 1526, and Brumfields also sheep to the value of 22s) suggests the figure in the Bridekirk Registers from the main farming activity is already in the outset. hands of Thomas Brumfield Jr., aged 31 at this point. ‘One ark in the barn’ is the only reference to farm buildings. The first item

10 in the will may be an indication of ‘Barwis of Cumberland’, Parts 1 & 2, Rev. wealth/property, ‘I give unto my son F.B.Swift, TCWAAS, New Series Vols. L & LI, Thomas Broomefield all my right and free 1950 & 1951. houses in Cockermouth’. No clarification of 11 Barwis, Richard (1602 – 1649) of Ilekirk Grange, Westward. what this refers to, or the value, has been www.historyofparliamentonline.org found – it may just be a catch-all phrase to 12 Swift, ‘Barwis of Cumberland’. 13 D/AY/4/2 (CRO Carlisle). 14 15 D/Law/3/3/6 (CRO, Carlisle); The Registers of Will/inventory of Thomas Brumfield, Snr, Bridekirk 1584 - 1812, Haswell, Col. J.F., 1927. 1631, CRO Carlisle. 17 cover property in the general area, Hameshill and The Fitz properties came including Hameshill. The will/ inventory of into Senhouse possession. Elizabeth and John Brumfield, died 1574, gives a better Patricius built a new house befitting local indication of farming activity in this area in gentry at Hameshill, around 1665 – the the period.16 Quite possibly relating to one shown on Thomas Donald’s map of Hameshill, it could be the inventory of the 1774.19 The Bridekirk Registers record the ‘John Brumfield of Hayms’ named in the baptisms and deaths of the Senhouses of 1526 Papcastle Manor Court records Hameshill up to the death of Humphrey, mentioned above. John’s will and inventory grandson of Elizabeth, in 1768. Writing in indicate that his four oxen were used for 1878, William Browne recalled from his draught purposes, including ploughing. youth the derelict house before it was Neighbours with small land holdings demolished. The stone was reused in the unable to support an ox team of their own, 1839 rebuilding of The Fitz with the 1665 paid for their services – several Senhouse arms & date stone being outstanding payments ‘for plowing’ were incorporated into the new building. The listed in the will. Crops grown included style of the Senhouses’ Hameshill house barley, oats, hemp and flax. He had sheep, was, reputedly, similar to Wordsworth cattle and a horse for personal transport. House in Cockermouth. Cumberland’s last ‘visitation’ of the plague occurred at Hameshill in 1647, The Hutton Residence and the although minor in terms of total number of Congregational Church deaths compared with 1597/8 and 1623 The nonconformist Congregational Church, episodes, it devastated two families.17 The established during the Commonwealth Bridekirk Parish Register shows that 13 period, was heavily persecuted following Brumfields, including eleven children, were the restoration of the monarchy (Charles buried during May and early June, six II) in 1660. George Larkham, the first being the children of James (Jacobus) and pastor of the Independents, the incumbent five the children of Thomas. It is only from 1651 of All Saints Church, certain that Thomas and his family lived at Cockermouth, was ‘ejected by the violence Hameshill; James and his family may have of Sir George Fletcher’ in 1660. The Hutton done. Two of Thomas’s family survived the house at Hameshill became an important plague, his wife Jane and daughter venue for clandestine meetings, services, 20 Elizabeth, aged 18 or so. The latter was baptisms, etc. Robert Hutton, son of married to Henry Dalton II (son of Henry Thomas, died in 1661.Thereafter Robert’s Dalton I, gentleman, of Brigham and ‘The widow, Margaret, a staunch supporter, Fitz’- next to the present Cockermouth risked severe retribution by allowing her Show field) and away from home. As the house to be so used. The Congregational only surviving child of Thomas Brumfield Church records make frequent reference to she would inherit his Hameshill holding, this, e.g. in 1668 ‘Many other meetings the her mother being allowed to live there church had this yeare at the House of during her lifetime. Henry Dalton II died sister Hutton at Hemshill, and at the Hall sometime before 1655, the year in which at Tallentyre, but under great Elizabeth married Patricius Senhouse, a threatenings’. In 1670: ‘A pretty part of younger son of the Netherhall family.18 the church met at the house of our sister Elizabeth’s son Henry Dalton III, in return Hutton at Hemes-Hill. We met in the night for much needed cash, made his will in for feare of the hunters abroad’. The size favour of his mother, rather than his sister of the gatherings (20 stated on one Jane, should he die before producing an occasion) and durations of 6 hours or heir. Such was the case, and both the 19 Proceedings, TCWAAS New Series Vol. LXIII,

16 1963, pp 299-301. ‘Bridekirk and its Registers’, Will/Inventory of John Brumfield of Bridekirk, Wm. Browne Esq., TCWAAS Old Series, Vol. IV, 1574, CRO Carlisle. 1878. 17 20 ‘Visitations of the Plague in Cumberland and The History of the Congregational Church, Westmorland’, Henry Barnes, TCWAAS, Old Cockermouth, W. Lewis, 1870. The Series Vol. XI, 1891. Cockermouth Congregational Church Book 18 Cumberland families and Heraldry, Hudleston, (1651-c.1765), Ed. R.B.Wordsworth, CWAAS, C.Roy, 1978. 2012. 18 more, suggest the Hutton residence was of Hameshill, has been found. Neither does by this time more than a basic farm house. it appear, from the Bridekirk Registers, Charles II’s Declaration of Indulgence of that another family became established. 1672 suspended the laws against Other than the Senhouse family only seven dissenters, permitting use of registered Hameshill baptism entries, with six locations for worship. Margaret Hutton’s different family names, occur between Hameshill house was the first in the 1688 and 1788 – possibly Cockermouth area to be officially licensed. servants/employees of the Senhouse Charles was forced by Parliament to family. withdraw his declaration in the following The evidence would suggest that the year and the former persecution resumed. Hutton land at Hameshill was in the hands References to meetings at Hameshill of others by the start of the 18C and the ceased in 1676. Margaret Hutton died in house uninhabited. The 19th century 1678. (Margaret’s maiden name having references show that ‘Hutton Croft’ as a been Dalton, it seems likely she would farmstead was, even at that time, have been related through marriage to completely forgotten, with its ‘memorable Elizabeth Senhouse, previously Dalton, nee events’ wrongly attributed to the Brumfield). Senhouse’s Hames Hill House.24 By the The Hearth Tax records for 21st century this house too was forgotten (ca. 1670) list Richard Hutton, gentleman, and the events presumed to have occurred as having a property with two hearths.21 at Hames Hall!25 (Hameshill was a detached part of the Township of Dovenby for local government Conclusion purposes until 1887, when it was Hameshill, or Hames, between Papcastle incorporated into the of and Bridekirk manors, had a long history Bridekirk). Two more references show that as an independent estate of del Hames, the Hutton house at Hameshill survived in then Barwis ownership. The location of an th Richard’s ownership until the late 17 C. early 13/14 century house, that of the del Thomas Denton records that ‘Hames-hill Hames family, is unknown. In the late lyes a little east (of Papcastle) where Mr medieval/early modern period Hameshill Senhouse & Mr Hutton have two good comprised two farmsteads occupied by the freehold estates, each of them being worth Brumfield and Hutton families. Each was £40 a year at least, and good seates’.22 An associated with locally significant historic issue over the repair of the Cockermouth - events: reputedly the last visitation of the Bridekirk road at Fowle Flosh appeared in plague in Cumberland (as a result of which the records of the Quarter Sessions of the the Senhouse family acquired the Cumberland Court – in the Easter Petitions Brumfield half of Hameshill) and the use of 1693 it was stated that the road ‘belonging the Hutton’s house for nonconformist to Mr Richard Hutton and Mrs Senhouse of church purposes during a period of the Haimeshill is now repaired’.23 Fowle persecution and repression. The Flosh was at the northern end of the Senhouses’ Hames Hill House, built 1665, medieval (Carlisle) road through Hameshill was demolished around 1839. Today (fig. 2, field 39). Richard Hutton (baptised Hameshill is almost completely forgotten. 1614) was the son of Thomas, and Historic references thereto are commonly presumably inherited the Hameshill and wrongly attributed to Hames Hall property either from his elder brother (built 1846 and given its present name Robert, or Robert’s wife Margaret. No post 1871). further record of Richard, or other Huttons

21 Hearth Tax Returns for Cumberland, CRO Carlisle. 22 Thomas Denton, A Perambulation of 24 Cumberland 1687-1688, Eds. Winchester, Angus The History of the Congregational Church, J.L. & Wane, Mary, Surtees Society & C&WAAS, Cockermouth, W. Lewis, 1870. 25 2003. The Cockermouth Congregational Church 23 Q/11/1/25/1, Cumberland Quarter Sessions, Book (1651-c.1765), Ed. R.B.Wordsworth, 1693. CRO Carlisle. C&WAAS, 2012. 19

What became of John Elliott the Nixon family, but at that time could not give the answer to what happened to Huxtable? Some mysteries Isabella’s unfortunate husband. But now solved. the answer is found, and this article by Derek Denman provides that answer, plus rather more about the Nixon and Huxtable families and In Journal 43, February 2009, Michael the source of their prosperity, due to Winstanley and I told the story of Isabella Blair’s research. Nixon, a farmer’s daughter who was born The fate of John Elliott Huxtable snr is at Boon Beck farm in Lorton in 1831. From briefly mentioned in the biography his son being a pupil at Lorton School, Isabella in Law Notes as a prize winner in 1887, rose to create and run a pioneering ladies then aged 23. It was important to know college in Kensington and thereby earned who a rising young man’s father was, the a place in the Victoria County History of mother was less of a concern. He was the Middlesex. But we could not find the man ‘son of the late John Elliott Huxtable, of she married in 1864, John Elliott Huxtable, Lagos, West Africa’, which suggests that in any records after 1867. At that time he the father left the country soon after his was temporarily imprisoned as a debtor in bankruptcy in 1867 and died there before the City Prison, now Holloway, due to the 1871. And so a mystery is solved, though failure of his trading partnership. By the 1871 census Isabella was a widow, and her young son John Elliott Huxtable jnr was in the care of relatives in Keswick, but her ladies’ college was thriving. Where was the bankrupt father? We also wondered where the money had come from for the ladies’ college and to educate her son. You can read that first article online if you have misplaced your copy of Journal 43. Fortunately we were not the only ones interested in the Nixon family. Isabella was one of a family of eleven, some of whom had descendants in England and abroad. In 2010 we were contacted by Mr Blair Nixon from Canada. Blair is a descendant of Kendal Nixon, Isabella’s nephew, and had more information about 20 lacking the details of his demise. and younger Hannah married butcher Another mystery now needs answering, David Pape, and created the numerous and thanks to Blair it can be done. Where Pape family of Keswick. In 1853, in her did the Nixon’s money come from? For a early twenties, Isabella trained in London man like John Elliott Huxtable jnr could not as a teacher, after which she worked as a be made without considerable funds. Soon national school teacher. She could have after his birth his mother was creating a accumulated the £8 training fee herself, London ladies’ college from scratch, and then could have had support from requiring considerable capital as it grew, brother Joseph, with whom she lodged as while his father’s business partnership was a teacher in London. But a teacher did not going bankrupt. The Huxtable family was earn enough to own and open a college in not the source of funds, and John Elliott her own right. Huxtable snr was just an ambitious young Something had clearly changed by man from Devon who had come to London 1864, when Isabella married in Islington to seek his fortune in trade, and failed to and newspaper notices described the do so. His son’s success was due to his groom and both fathers as gentlemen. For Lorton born mother, who was clearly a the Huxtables this was clearly an remarkable woman. overstatement. In the previous article we For the money, as well as the talent, we were unaware of any change in the must look to the Nixon family and to circumstances of Isabella’s father, John another Cumberland family, the Kay family Nixon, who was now at the Howe, near of . When Isabella was born in Keswick, but maybe did not own it. But we Lorton in 1831 her father, John Nixon, was now know that John Nixon snr had come a tenant farmer at Boon Beck. That is, he into money in 1858 and had bought the rented the farm (including the Lorton yew Howe, while John Nixon jnr continued as a tree) for a period of years from the owner, tenant farmer – at Armaside, Lorton, in Martha Stubbs. A tenant farmer used his 1867. Not only had John Nixon snr come small capital and his labour, often into money in 1858, but he had some including his children, to make a living and expectations of substantially more in the hopefully increase his capital. That capital future under certain unlikely would normally be passed to his eldest circumstances. son, John Nixon jnr, who would, and did, When we wrote the previous article we carry on the family business – moving started with John Nixon’s marriage to from farm to farm as a tenant. The Elizabeth Smith at Dean in 1811. Without younger sons, if not employed on the Blair Nixon’s research we did not know farm, might become farm labourers locally that he had been married in 1807 to Sarah or might exploit their good Cumberland Kay in their birthplace of Wigton, and we education elsewhere in the country or would not have considered it important. overseas. Isabella’s older brother, Joseph Sarah had two children, Robert in Wigton Nixon sought his fortune in London as a and William in Deanscales, before she died hosiery warehouseman. He married, and in 1810. Robert Nixon (approx 1808-1853) appeared to do well. was probably the nephew of William Kay As a farmer’s younger daughter, (approx 1776-1838), whose father was a Isabella would expect a good basic yeoman farmer of The Mains. Robert had education at Lorton School, but would the good fortune to be named as the normally go into farm service at 14. With residual legatee in the will of William Kay, good luck, and maybe a small marriage shared equally with a Mary Barnes. That is, settlement, she might marry a farmer or a when William Kay died, once all his farm labourer. If unmarried then a life and bequests had been settled and if he had no working on the family’s tenanted farms descendants, then Robert Nixon or his was common. Three of the Nixon sisters, heirs would receive half of the residue of however, preferred to work in bustling the estate. For a yeoman farmers’ son that Keswick, and in 1851 Anne, Isabella and should not amount to much. But a Hannah were together running a guest Chancery Court document discovered by house, with Isabella, aged 19, as a Blair shows that William Kay became confectioner. In later life Anne married rather more prosperous. Robert Wilson, the pencil manufacturer, 21

The original article relied almost entirely on online sources for its content, and in keeping with that spirit a little internet research has found that the Hertforfshire genealogists are also interested in William Kay, as follows. Kay left Wigton with £100 from his father, but he chose to go to Manchester and into manufacture rather than trading in the cotton products in London. In 1804 he was listed in a trade directory as a cotton manufacturer with a mill in Watling Street, Manchester. By 1823 he had built a silk administer Robert’s estate. Joseph Nixon mill in Tring, and in 1825 purchased the was a man in business in London, and able estate and mansion at Tring Park, with the to follow the proceedings of the Court of lordship of the manor of Tring. However, Chancery. Still no money was coming to he seems to have spent at least his later John Nixon from the estate of William Kay years in London, and was living at York snr at the time of Robert’s death, and Terrace, Regents Park, when he died in Kay’s son, William Kay jnr, was a healthy 1838 of a head injury after being knocked young man, and expected to live and have down by a horse and cart near to his children. house. His memorial is in Tring Church. In 1858 Joseph Nixon sold the future reversionary interest of John Nixon to He left a 26-page detailed and convoluted William Kay jnr, which presumably meant will, written by a lawyer's clerk in a looping that William Kay jnr’s life tenancy would be copper-plate hand, and quite worthy of passed to his next generation, if they anything to be found in the legal novels of existed. At the same time Joseph Nixon Dickens. He settled on his wife Helen a yearly sum of £1,600 for life - providing she sold to unknown buyers six tenths of the did not re-marry. His older son, Richard, was contingent reversionary interest, retaining left £500 a year for life, but the entire four tenths of the contingent reversionary estate, including the mill, was bequeathed in interest for his father. This contingent Trust for his younger son, William. At the reversionary interest presumably refers to time of his father's death William junior was the rights remaining if William Kay’s line still a minor, and accordingly, for the failed. These sales resulted in a significant purpose of the inheritance, was made a ward but unknown sum of money coming to of the Court of Chancery.1 John Nixon in 1858. After fees and

expenses of course, but it was enough to While a minor William Kay jnr was allowed buy the Howe by 1861, and to fund John an income of £1300 a year by the Court of Nixon’s leisure in retirement. John Nixon Chancery. still retained that four tenths of the In that convoluted will Robert Nixon, contingent reversionary interest, but that Isabella’s half-brother, held a half interest would only benefit him if the Kay line in the residuary estate, but received failed. nothing in 1838 when William Kay died. Helen Kay, the widow, died in 1860. But in 1853 Robert Nixon died in William Kay jnr’s child was stillborn in Aylesbury, intestate, and his father, John 1864. William Kay jnr died in 1865, killed Nixon, became his heir. John was still a in a hunting accident. Therefore the tenant farmer, probably at Bank Farm in unlikely circumstances occurred, worthy of Whinfell, where wife Betty died in 1857. Dickens’ Bleak House, through which John When Robert died in 1853, his father, as Nixon would benefit from his four tenths of his heir, appointed son Joseph to the late Robert Nixon’s contingent reversionary interest, amounting to 1 Wendy Austin, More Tring personalities, 2003 22 approximately £25,000 received by Joseph and which should have been distributed Nixon in June 1866. among the siblings. The complaint alleged And here the story has to take an that Joseph had used the money for his unfortunate turn as the culture of the own purposes: - ‘a large part … as his metropolis and the temptation of large capital as a partner in the firm of Scott and sums of money apparently worked on Nixon carrying on business at Nithsdale Joseph Nixon. Perhaps this was inevitable, Millls, Dumfries, Scotland, and in London as with the son Luke in Wordsworth’s the said Defendant has employed other Michael whose moral compass worked only parts in the purchase of divers shares … in the sublime proximity of his native unknown … and in the purchase of small mountains, and within the supportive estates in Derbyshire and Cumberland’. rustic Westmorland society. After the On 15 May 1867 Joseph Nixon wrote death of William Kay jnr, and with the from Nithsdale Mills confirming the value of the four tenths of the contingent intended arrangement of the distribution reversionary interest apparent to him, or but that ‘having placed the principal part of at least made apparent to him by his fishy- the money in business likely at that time sounding firm of solicitors, Parker, Lee and to be very profitable but now not likely to Haddock, Joseph Nixon journeyed to be so which renders me unable to carry Keswick to meet with his father and out my wishes with regard to the country siblings. There Joseph presented a settlements and I consider it the best paper for his father’s signature by which course to revoke the deed of gift and give he, Joseph, could receive the money and to father the remains of the money from would distribute it equally among the Howard & Kay fund’. The deed of gift was siblings, as was John Nixon’s wish in his that which John Nixon snr had signed and will. This distribution could be made soon, which by implication gave Joseph Nixon and would save £1000 in costs. The the whole amount from the Kay estate, document was signed in March 1865, but apparently in trust for the children of John in May 1865 John Nixon snr was Nixon. This presumably gave Joseph the summoned urgently to Joseph’s House in power to use the money before it was London, with son John and daughter distributed. John Nixon jnr’s solicitors Sarah. There to be presented by Charles naturally required Joseph to surrender not Milner Haddock with a further deed, only the remaining money but the property unread, which Haddock was said to have and securities which had been purchased guaranteed would distribute the funds to with the greater part of the money. Since be received as John Nixon had required, this was not forthcoming the Bill of and save costs. Isabella, now married with Complaint was filed on 30 May 1867. This a baby and living in London, was present had the intention of securing the proceeds at neither of those meetings. of the Kay settlement and the assets which No funds were received by Joseph’s Joseph Nixon had acquired with the country siblings, and Joseph became money. uncommunicative. By 1867 John Nixon jnr We know no more other than that the had reluctantly engaged the better- complaint was redrafted after an order of sounding firm of John and William February 1868. However, it is clear from Galsworthy, of Old Jewry Chambers, to file Joseph Nixon’s letter that he had a Bill of Complaint in Chancery against his defrauded his siblings out of the money brother Joseph, Joseph’s solicitors and, as which their father wished to go to them, at a matter of form, his father. It is this least temporarily. Also that Joseph could document, filed on 30 May 1867, and its no longer provide the majority of those amendments ordered in February 1868 – funds as money. These facts were removing the complaint against the acknowledged and the Nixon siblings solicitors – which provides the detail of this would in due course have received part of case from the plaintiff’s position. their expected money, though probably The included sequence of letters in rather less than the £3000 each that they 1867, between J&W Galsworthy and were due in 1866. John Nixon jnr died in Joseph Nixon and his solicitors, throws January 1870 and his father in January some light on what he did with the 1871, perhaps before all was settled. £25,000 which he received in June 1866, 23

To return to Isabella must indicate a great strength of Huxtable, as she became character and determination. While after her marriage in August Joseph must have had difficult 1864, and the question of future relations with the Nixon the funding of her ladies’ family, Isabella maintained her college and son’s education. family relationships as demonstrated In March 1865 she gave by her young son being a scholar in birth to her son, while they Keswick in the care of sister Anne in were living in a fashionable 1871. More than that we do not house in Arundel Square, know. Barnsbury. Isabella would The last mystery to be resolved no longer be a National here is the location of Isabella’s School teacher, and would memorial, which we knew was not attend the family commissioned by her son from Eric meeting in Keswick in that Gill, in green Borrowale slate. Blair month. She was closest to has photographed it in Crosthwaite Joseph, having been in church yard – and here it is. London for twelve years and having lived with his family Main Sourcesces while an unmarried teacher. Michael Winstanley and Derek Denman, The fact that she did not ‘The life of Isabella Huxtable, (1831- attend the second family 1909):- from Lorton farmer’s daughter to London college proprietor’, Journal meeting in May 1865 in No.43, L&DFLHS February 2009. London suggests that she http://www.derwentfells.com/pdfs/ was already content with journal/Journal43.pdf what Joseph had told her The National Archives, records of the about the deed of gift. In Court of Chancery, C16/443 1866, when Isabella started William Kay of Tring Park (1823-1838), her school at 32 Arundel http://www.hertfordshire- Square, the address of her genealogy.co.uk/data/answers/answers- 2010/ans10-036-kay.htm own home, presumably Blair Nixon, family history research leasing extra space if material. necessary, she would have expected to soon be in Blair Nixon writes possession of some £3,000 I am the GG grandson of Kendall as her share. Whether Nixon and have been researching Joseph gave her any of the my family history for many years £25,000 he received in June now. A few years ago I happened 1866 we do not know. upon Journal 43 on the internet Isabella is not mentioned in the narrative which had an article about my GGG aunt th of the Bill of Complaint until 14 May Isabella Huxtable (nee Nixon) and her 1867, when ‘your sister’ met with J & M family. I had already established, through Galsworthy at their offices and showed a research, that the Nixon family names letter she had received from Joseph. After mentioned in this article were ancestors of that Joseph wrote the letter which mine so imagine my surprise and admitted his fault and his embarrassed excitement in coming across this article! I position in Dumfries. At that same time the was fortunate enough to make contact partnership of Isabella’s husband, John with Derek Denman, the co-author of that Elliott Huxtable, was failing and led to his story, and we have corresponded several imprisonment and the bankruptcy in July. times since. It is through this contact that Isabella would have needed her share of we have traded information and Derek has the Kay money. been gracious enough to write a follow-up Whatever the precise arrangements and to the original article in Journal 43. timing, Isabella must have received capital Kendall Nixon, the first born son of John to fund both her son’s education and the and Sarah (nee Kendall) Nixon, the continued development of the school. The nephew of Isabella Huxtable (nee Nixon) particular difficulties she faced in 1867 and the nephew of Joseph Nixon left 24

England in February of 1883 aboard the S.S. Parisian bound for Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada. Kendall left England with his young sons John Kendall Nixon (age 9) and Thomas Thornthwaite Nixon (age 7). Upon arrival in Halifax, they boarded the Canadian National Railway destined for Brandon, Manitoba and then travelled by ox cart to Shoal Lake, Manitoba (approximately 100km away) to join his brother, John Kendall Nixon. He left Manitoba very soon after to take up a homestead near Wapella, Saskatchewan where they built a log house and started farming. Kendall’s wife, Jane, left England in June of 1883 aboard the S.S. Polynesian bound for Canada to join her husband and two sons in Shoal Lake, Manitoba. Travelling with Jane was her daughter Sarah Elizabeth Nixon (age 11), son Kendall Lorton Nixon (age 3), daughter Mary (Polly) Nixon (age 2), son Robert Nicholson Nixon (infant), Kendall's sister Bessie Nixon (age 30) and Kendall's niece Blair Nixon visiting the family memorial at St Cuthbert’s, Lorton. Caroline Todhunter (age 18). Upon their arrival, the family returned to the homestead in Saskatchewan to find that entrepreneurship was part of the genetics the house had burnt down so they dug a handed down from his family roots in temporary home in the side of a hill until a Cumberland. Four daughters and seven new house was built. sons were born to Kendall and Jane; all of Life was difficult and times were hard whom remained and raised families in for young pioneers making a life and western Canada. raising a family in an unknown and largely The Journal unsettled land. Following in his Cumbrian Journal 56 will be published for 1st August 2015. family’s footsteps, Kendall was involved in Please send contributions by 7th July. farming and later ventured into the grain Back issues of The Journal are available on-line at buying business in Saskatchewan and www.derwentfells.com/journal Copyright remains with the individual contributors. Manitoba. It appears that he did well and Published by Lorton & Derwent Fells Local History prospered up until his death in 1925. Society. Beech Cottage, High Lorton, Cockermouth Obviously the work ethic and CA13 9UQ or [email protected] L&DFLHS – Programme for 2015 Date Event 8th January Wasdale Climbing Book: early climbing in the Lake District. Michael Cocker 12th March Dry stone walls and landscape history. Prof Angus Winchester 15th April A Brief History of Embleton and Wythop. Walter Head & Derek Denman. At Embleton Community Hall. 7.30pm. Visitors £1. 14th May Counting Sheep - A Celebration of the Pastoral Heritage of Britain. Philip Walling 20th May Society visit to Acorn Bank – contact Tim Stanley-Clamp (see flier) 11th June AGM - The Sun is High & Oxford Far Away - The changing relationship between the Oxford college & their Renwick tenantry 1600 – 1660. Richard Brockington 9th July The Lake Poets and the French Revolution. Bill Speck 10th September A Fox in the Fells – the Quakers in . Janice Wilson 12th November Discovering Derventio - Recent Archaeological finds at Papcastle. Mark Graham

Most talks are held at the Yew Tree Hall in Lorton at 7.30pm. Visitors £2.50 with refreshments.