TOP EXPERIENCES • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASY

Josephine Quintero

00--titlepage-contents-pk-ten1.inddtitlepage-contents-pk-ten1.indd 1 330/10/20150/10/2015 9:40:309:40:30 AM In This Book

16 Need to Know 17 18 119

Before You Go Arriving in Tenerife Getting Around Need to Your Daily Budget There are two airports in Tenerife: Tenerife Tenerife has an efficient and comprehensive Tenerife (p60) Sur (Reina Sofía; %922 75 95 10; www. public transport system, primarily compris- A gracious resort town Know Budget less than €75 aena.es), located 20km east of Playa de las ing of a bus service that runs a spider’s web with top-notch X Hostal or pensión doubles €35 to €45 Américas, and Tenerife Norte (Los Rodeos; of bus services all over the island, as well as restaurants, tapas bars QuickStart within Santa Cruz and other towns. If you and nightlife, plus X Three-course menú del día €7.50 %922 63 56 35; www.aena.es), located 11km For more information, want to explore further afield, renting a car is beaches for swimming west of . see Survival Guide (p143) X Plan sightseeing around ‘free admission’ highly recommended. and a leafy central plaza. times, generally on Sundays A From Tenerife Sur Airport If you’ll be travelling a lot by public transport ] Top Experience Santa Cruz de Currency \# La Laguna X Markets for self-caterers in Tenerife then it’s worth investing in a Bon- Tenerife (p22) Euro (€) Destination Best Transport Jardín Botánico Santa Cruz Via or Bono Bus card (www.titsa.com). Valid de Tenerife The Canarian capital in Costa Adeje TITSA bus (111, 450) \# Midrange €75–€175 on all TITSA buses throughout the island as every sense with great Language X Double room in midrange hotel €65 to €85 Los Cristianos TITSA bus (343, Express) well as the city tram network, they give a shops, restaurants and Puerto Spanish (Castilian) 30% discount on standard fares as well as sights. X Lunch in decent restaurant €15 to €25 Puerto de la Cruz TITSA bus (343, Express) \# de la reduced entry to some tourist attractions. Cruz ] Top Experiences Visas X Use the excellent bus service, not taxis Santa Cruz de TITSA bus (107, 108) Cards cost from €7.50 (12 trips) to €45 (a \# Museo de la Naturaleza Generally not required for stays of up to 90 Tenerife monthly ticket for frequent users) and can Top End more than €175 La y el Hombre days (and not at all for members of EU or Tenerife Norte TITSA bus (343, Express) be bought from any bus or tram station as (p76) Orotava Tenerife Espacio de las Schengen countries). Some nationalities X Double room in top-end hotel from €140 well as some newspaper kiosks. Check the One of the prettiest La Laguna (p46) Guide need a Schengen visa. Artes (TEA) X Fine dining for lunch and dinner from €35 website for more details. towns on Tenerife, with A fascinating Unesco A From Tenerife Norte Airport great souvenir shopping World Heritage town Mercado de Nuestra Money Destination Best Transport J Bus and traditional famed for its compelling Señora de África ATMs widely available. Credit cards restaurants and bars. historic architecture and Useful Websites Los Cristianos TITSA bus (343, Express) Tenerife has an impressive bus transport sys- accepted in most hotels, restaurants and sights, with a lively X Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ tem that covers the whole island. Frequency, ] Top Experience Parque shops. Puerto de la Cruz TITSA bus (343, Express) canary-islands) Destination information, hotel however, varies enormously from a regular Nacional student-geared nightlife. Casa de los Balcones del Teide bookings, traveller forum and more. Santa Cruz de TITSA bus (102, 107, 108) service between major towns to a couple of ] Top Experience Mobile Phones runs a day for transporting workers and school Tenerife Museo de la Historia de Local SIM cards can be used in British/ X Todo Tenerife (www.todotenerife.es) children to/from the capital. Always check Tenerife Sur TITSA bus (343, Express) Tenerife European and Australian phones. US and Official tourism site with comprehensive the TITSA (www.titsa.com) timetable carefully other travellers’ phones need to be set to information on all aspects of the island. before you travel, especially at the weekends roaming. X Reservas Parques Nacionales (www. A At the Airport when most lines run a reduced service. Your keys to under- reservasparquesnacionales.es) The latest on Tenerife Sur Airport This airport receives Time climbing El Teide. the most traffic from tourists visiting the K Car The Canary Islands are on Greenwich Mean popular southern resorts. There are excellent All the big international car-rental companies Time (GMT/UTC), plus an hour in summer Los Cristianos airport facilities, including a tourist office, car are represented in Tenerife and there are Playa de las for daylight-saving time. Advance Planning (p90) hire, a VIP lounge, duty-free stores, gift shops plenty of local operators, as well. If you’re stay- Américas & Costa Costa Superb beaches and Three months before Reserve your hotel and boutiques, as well as a pharmacy, news- ing for any length of time, consider reserving Adeje Worth a Trip Adeje (p102) \# lots of sights and Plugs & Adaptors early, especially in the southern resorts. agent, three bars-cum-restaurants and that a car online in advance, especially with the A buzzing nightlife and activities for children ] Top Experience Plugs have two round pins; electrical current all-important ice-cream stand. There are also smaller car firms,:they have a limited number \# One month before Buy tickets online for a some of the island’s top Playa \# make this one of is 220V/230V. Parque Nacional del world-class performance at Santa Cruz de several ATM machines and car-hire offices. of cars available, especially in peak seasons. restaurants and hotels de las Los Tenerife’s top family Américas Teide Tenerife’s Auditorio de Tenerife. Tenerife Norte Airport The first airport to make this one of the Cristianos destinations. Tipping U Tram standing the island – One week before If you’re planning to open on the island, Tenerife Norte caters to most popular stretches Top Experience Small change (€1 per person in restaurants) A convenient 12.5km (7.8 miles) tram (www. ] climb to El Teide’s summit, you must re- tourism to the north of the island as well as of coastline for tourists. DQGURXQGLQJXS LQWD[LV LVXVXDOO\VX՘FLHQW metrotenerife.com) links the main bus Watersports serve your place in advance. Allow a week, local business travellers. Facilities include station in Santa Cruz de Tenerife with Avenida to be sure of a space. a tourist-information desk, duty-free shop, we help you decide pharmacy, car hire and ATM machines. de la Trinidad in La Laguna. what to do and how Need to Know Regions to do it Tips for a What’s where smooth trip

8 Top Experiences 9 12 Local Life 13

Tenerife Tenerife Top Experiences Local Life

Parque Nacional del Teide (p116) ,QVLGHUWLSVWRKHOS\RXÀQGWKHUHDOLVODQG CHRIS HEPBURN/GETTY IMAGES © The awesome Pico del Teide (3718m) is the highest mountain in the Canary Is- lands, the highest mountain in Spain and, along with its extraordinary surround- ing national park, will undoubtedly be the highlight of your trip to Tenerife. To really get under the skin of this island, take to the streets to experience such evocative and typically Tenerife delights as early-morning markets, chic shopping streets, shady squares and seafood as fresh as the morning’s catch.

Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Candelaria (p45) Other great places Explore to experience the Puerto de la Cruz (p60) A Taste of restaurants and a steady Timeless Tascas & join the locals in the island like a local: Traditional Santa stream of pilgrims. Crafts (p80) pretty main plaza before Playa de las Teresitas Cruz (p30) X Traditional craftsmanship exploring the cobbled Foodie La Laguna (p36) X Old-fashioned stores X Tascas (tapas bars) lanes and coastline, dis- X Traditional dishes (p50) Admire La Orotava’s covering convents, crafts colonial-style buildings Bodeguita Canaria Santa Cruz is a traditional X Gourmet Markets and even a castle along (p36) working city. For travellers X Lively Bars and traditional crafts (and the way. grown weary of souvenir Markets are an important tascas) untouched by time. La Noria (p40) tat and bland internation- part of daily life in La Exploring the al fare, there are plenty of Laguna, just as bars are Backstreet Los FISH WIFE,THE BY NIETO, JULIO TRAVELSTOCK44-HELD/GETTY JUERGEN IMAGES © Anaga Mountains Rastro (p43) small family-owned shops an important part of post- Cristianos (p94) to explore, and authentic dusk partying. Experience (p122) Guachinches (p71) Tenerife GONZALO AZUMENDI/AGEFOTOSTOCK © X Local bars X Isolated Hamlets spots to sample tradi- them both over a long day X Independent shops tional Canarian cuisine. (and night) out. Los Cristianos’ old fishing- X Countryside Hikes Bar Dinámico (p73) A world away from the CULTURA RM EXCLUSIVE/TIM E WHITE/GETTY IMAGES © village centre still has a clamour of the coast, A Fishy Trail (p64) pueblo atmosphere with Churreria Perdomo Holy Candelaria this mountainous region its no-frills tapas bars and (p72) (p44) X )UHVKR՗WKH%RDW6HDIRRG still has hidden corners X Seaview Terraces quirky independent shops. El Médano (p93) X Religious Traditions A former fishing village, to explore, as well as tiny X Tapas Trail Puerto de la Cruz still pueblos with a handful Visit this extraordinary Village Life in Kiosco San Telma retains a strong seafaring of inhabitants and coastal village over- (p113) tradition with superb fresh Garachico (p120) breathtaking views. Museo de la Naturaleza y el Hombre (p24) shadowed by a mighty X Tapas bars seafood and an atmos- Las Galletas (p109) The best things to This Santa Cruz museum has superb exhibits about Tenerife’s natural history, basilica and home to an X Local culture pheric harbour. Look out intriguing combination plus archaeology, anthropology and fascinating informative displays about the for The Fish Wife, by Julio In a village little changed of small shops, seafood indigenous Guanche population. Nieto (pictured right). by the passage of time, see and do, region by region Top Experiences Local Life Make the most The insider's island of your visit

128 Best Shopping Best Shopping 129 130 Best Green Spaces Best Green Spaces 131

Best Best Shopping Green Spaces It’s not hard to avoid straw donkeys and sex-on- Tenerife has some truly lovely parks and green KAY MAERITZ/GETTY IMAGES © the-beach shot glasses: Tenerife has a chain of KRIS UBACH/GETTY IMAGES © spaces, particularly around Puerto de la Cruz.

quality-controlled souvenir shops that champion NITO/SHUTTERSTOCK © The gardens here are truly diverse; some have a NITO/SHUTTERSTOCK © local art and crafts. The larger towns also have tangible sense of English gentility (with croquet a pedestrian shopping area where idiosyncratic lawns, no less), while others are more subtropi- small shops jostle for space next to national cal. Throughout the island the town parks are The Best chains. Delis are fun for browsing – mojo salsas always family friendly, as well as being highly make great gifts, as well as other gourmet goodies. maintained and lushly landscaped with sub- Sant Telmo Street in Puerto de la Cruz (p60) tropical plants and the ubiquitous palms. Parque Marítimo César Manrique (p35) Best Fashion Hensi Carries one of the Best Souvenir Shops Best Book Shops trees; Puerto de la Cruz. with birds, butterflies and Best Natural & Fashions & Textiles widest local selections Dolores Promesas This Artenerife Top-quality art La Isla Bookshop A Pretty Parks (p62) meandering pathways. Rural Parks While there are stores devoted to the main Spanish of shoes, concentrating dynamic Santa Cruz– and crafts, including pot- long-established well- Like mainland Spain, parks and public gardens Best City Parks (p86) and international designers, you can also hunt out on designer and national Risco Belle Aquatic Anaga Mountains This based designer appeals tery and jewellery made stocked Santa Cruz are an integral part of the infrastructure here and Parque García Sanabria small boutiques with home-grown talent or specialis- brands; Playa de las Gardens A lush water Jardínes del Marque- northeasterly region to the fashionably chic by local artisans; Playa de bookshop on several viewed as much-loved focal points for local life. A delightful collection of ing in ethnic or boho-chic threads. Shoes are gener- Américas. (p115) garden in Puerto de la sado de la Quinta Roja (pictured on p142) is with her individual styles las Américas. (p114) floors; some English There is always plenty of shady seating, as well as Mediterranean and sub- ally a reliable buy here, good quality and generally Cruz with lakes, foun- These terraced gardens wild, unspoiled and very, and richly patterned titles. (p43) playgrounds and, increasingly, exercise equipment tropical trees and flowers, cheaper than on the mainland. Leatherwear has also Best Food Shops Casa de la Aduana A tains and dazzling plants provide a cascade of very green with pine-clad fabrics. (p42) for adults. Generally toilets are also close to hand, interspersed with water and flowers. (p63) colour right in the centre long been associated with Spain, and the Canaries large selection of arts and Librería Barbara A Los mountains and forests of Carolina Boix Local El Rincon Extremeño A as well as that other necessity: a cafe or bar. Some features and sculptures; of La Orotava. (p83) have plenty of shops that sell jackets, bags and belts crafts, as well as wine Cristianos-based multi- Sitio Litre Garden While ancient laurels. (p122) shoe designer who spe- La Laguna temple to all and gourmet delights in lingual Aladdin’s cave parks have bandstands where concerts take place, Santa Cruz. (p31) at highly competitive prices. Lace and embroidery orchids are the highlight El Teide The terrain of Tenerife cialises in comfortable things pork-inclined, par- Puerto de la Cruz. (p74) of the written word with especially at fiesta time. Increasingly, parks are also Plaza Príncipe de Astu- Best for Families are another speciality and the work is exquisite, ticularly jamón serrano here, the rest of this of El Teide is volcanic, inexpensive footwear for books, magazines, maps showcasing sculpture, often contemporary, while rias Sit under the shade although watch out for cheap imitations from China. (Serrano ham), plus local MAIT Specialises in Latin Puerto de la Cruz garden Parque Marítimo César rather than ‘green’ but men and women; Santa and more... (p100) others double as venues for art-and-craft markets. of a giant Indian banyan cheese and gourmet American crafts displayed is a well-established leafy Manrique In the shadow is still full of colour and Cruz. (p43) tree at this fine capital- Ceramics & Jewellery goodies. (p59) in a wonderful dazzle of oasis of trickling water of Santa Cruz’ auditorium, otherworldly intrigue; El Ganso Head to this patterns and colour; La Best Vintage Stores Botanical Gardens city park. (p30) and tranquillity. (p68) clusters of palms give come here in springtime Simple terracotta pots that emulate Guanche Licoreria Puerto A stylish boutique in the Orotava. (p89) Dicky Morgan A super- Tenerife is home to, arguably, the most stunning this Manrique-designed for a show of wildflowers. designs are popular, along with more sophisticated crammed-full space Hijuela del Botánico A capital for punchy bright stylish La Laguna store botanical gardens in the Canaries. They are wonder- Best Botanical waterpark a welcome (p116) ceramics and distinctive imported Spanish pottery. of every imaginable La Alpizpa The original delightful small botani- colours and innovative dedicated to vintage art, ful places to while away a few hours, with the added Gardens green feel. (p35) Silver jewellery and pearls are both relatively in- deli item, ranging from and colourful crafts here cal garden in La Orotava designs for men. (p43) fashion and decor. (p59) plus of generally ensuring plenty of natural shade. Palmetum A vast collec- expensive. The company Tenerife Pearl advertises chilli-spiked sauces to are made by locals with The island’s Carey Just the spot for tion of palms from around widely and has several outlets on the island. chocolates; Puerto de la learning disabilities; Los Vintage Store 13 This picking up glitzy acces- Anaga Parque Rural the world comprise this Cruz. (p75) Cristianos. (p100) tantalising small space Worth a Trip Gourmet Goods sories or that showstop- has some hidden gems One of the most impressive green spaces of Tenerife Santa Cruz park on the Olé Espacio Gourmet La Ranilla In a former Around 25km west of La Orotava, the stamp-size town of Icod de los Gourmet food markets have opened in several ping outfit; Puerto de la among all the vintage is the stunning unspoiled Anaga mountains, a rural seafront. (p35) Seek out this Los Cris- fisherman’s cottage in Vinos is home to the Drago Park (adult/child €4/2.50; h9.30am-6.30pm; p), towns and are fun, vibrant spaces where you can Cruz. (p75) jumble; Santa Cruz. natural park in the northeast of the island; note that Jardín Botánico The tianos stall in the food Puerto de la Cruz, this where you pay to get up close and personal with (apparently) the world’s eat and drink, as well as shop. In addition there are Tina A wonderfully ec- (p42) you will need your own wheels in order to do this most famous gardens on market with its standout arty craft shop is ideal oldest and largest dragon tree. The park is also home to a pretty botanical centric Los Cristianos scenic corner of the island any justice. Make a day of Tenerife with a fascinat- small speciality stores where you can find an excel- selection of cold cuts for unusual handmade garden and a so-called Guanche trail that includes a cave with disarmingly boutique; selling serious it; there are some great picnic spots here, complete ing history and some lent range of jarred goodies as well as local cheese and cheese. (p101) gifts. (p74) lifelike skulls and bones (great for scaring the tots!). highlights and jamón (ham; you can usually ask for a taste). bling. (p95) with barbecue pits and playgrounds. extraordinary plants and in handy lists Tenerife’ Best… to help you plan The best experiences

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00--titlepage-contents-pk-ten1.inddtitlepage-contents-pk-ten1.indd 2 330/10/20150/10/2015 9:40:509:40:50 AM Our selection of the island’s best places Lonely Planet’s to eat, drink and experience: Tenerife 1 Experiences Lonely Planet Pocket Guides are designed to get you 5 Eating straight to the heart of a place. Inside you’ll find all the 6 Drinking must-see sights, plus tips to make your visit to each one 3 Entertainment really memorable. We’ve split the island into easy-to-navigate 7 Shopping regions and provided clear maps so you’ll find your way around with ease. Our expert These symbols give you the vital authors have searched out information for each listing: the best of the island: walks, food, nightlife and shopping, % Telephone Numbers c Family-Friendly to name a few. Because you h Opening Hours # Pet-Friendly want to explore, our ‘Local Life’ p Parking g Bus pages will take you to some n Nonsmoking f Ferry i Internet Access m Metro of the most exciting areas to W Wi-Fi Access b Subway experience the real Tenerife. v Vegetarian Selection j Tram And of course you’ll find all E English-Language d Train the practical tips you need for Menu a smooth trip: itineraries for short visits, how to get around, and how much to tip the guy who serves you a drink at the Find each listing quickly on maps end of a long day’s exploration. for each region: It’s your guarantee of a

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02a-explore-the-louvre.indd 28 19/08/2011 11:08:57 AM QuickStart Explore Guide 7 Tenerife 21 Tenerife Top Experiences .....8 22 Santa Cruz de Tenerife Tenerife Local Life ...... 12 Tenerife Day Planner ...... 14 46 La Laguna Need to Know ...... 16 Tenerife 60 Puerto de la Cruz Regions ...... 18 76 La Orotava

90 Los Cristianos

102 Playa de las Américas & Costa Adeje

Worth a Trip: Holy Candelaria ...... 44 Parque Nacional del Teide ...... 116 Village Life in Garachico ...... 120 Exploring the Anaga Mountains ...... 122

00--titlepage-contents-pk-ten1.inddtitlepage-contents-pk-ten1.indd 4 330/10/20150/10/2015 9:41:069:41:06 AM The Best of Survival Tenerife 125 Guide 143 Tenerife’s Best … Before You Go ...... 144 Eating ...... 126 Arriving in Tenerife ...... 145 Shopping ...... 128 Getting Around ...... 146 Green Spaces ...... 130 Essential Information ...... 148 For Free ...... 132 Language ...... 151 Drinking ...... 133 Architecture ...... 134 Walking ...... 136 Beaches ...... 137 For Kids ...... 138 Sports & Activities ...... 140 Museums & Art ...... 141

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Welcome to Tenerife

Famed for its southern resorts (and not always in a good way), the joy of Tenerife is that it offers so much more than just another sun-flop on the beach. For a true taste of Tenerife, consider dramatic volcanic scenery, colourful colonial towns, world-class museums, sophisticated din- ing and earthy local bars where you’ll still need Spanish to order a beer.

La Orotava (p76) DESIREE MARTIN/AFP/GETTY IMAGES ©

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