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Storage Media Storage media This is a sample chapter from the forthcoming book, Files that Last, by Gary McGath. Copyright 2012 by Gary McGath, all rights reserved. Say see you later to your data And sing an ode to dead code. Any drive can make you hate her When a backup is owed. Bill Roper, “Hard Drive Calypso” Files are no more durable than the media they are stored on. What’s the best alternative if you’re concerned with longevity: tape, hard drive, flash, DVD, or something else? There isn’t a clear answer, since each one has its own strengths and weaknesses, but some are better than others, and you can get good material or cheap junk in any medium. Whatever you choose, care and storage can make a big difference to its lifespan. Sometimes you’re on the receiving end of legacy files, and you have to deal with the medium they’re on. In addition to current and upcoming media, this chapter looks at some of the older formats and their issues. Compact discs Compact discs (CDs) and their high-density relatives, digital video discs (DVDs) and Blu-Ray, are often a good choice for archiving. (These are always “discs,” not “disks.”) They’re optical storage media, written and read by lasers. They’re strictly passive objects, with no moving parts to fail, and they aren’t susceptible to magnetic fields, so they can last quite a while. They’ve been common for a long time now, so it should be fairly easy to get drives for them for the next couple of decades. CDs are good for small amounts of data; you can get about 800 megabytes on one CD. DVDs can store as much as 17 gigabytes (dual sided, dual layer). Blu-Ray can store as much as 100 gigabytes. There are several different CD technologies. The original is the audio compact disc, or more formally CD-Audio. Commercial CD-Audio discs (other than small runs by some independents) are mass produced and can’t be written with computer drives. A laser device creates a master, then a duplicator copies it, stamping pits in the recording layer. Discs made this way are very durable. Audio discs written from a computer are CD-R discs, and they’re written with a laser that modifies points on a dye layer to change their reflectivity rather than burning pits. Dyes are subject to change over time, so even the best CD-Rs aren’t as durable as true CD-Audio discs. CD-ROM is similar to CD-Audio, but allows the storage of data instead of music tracks. It’s formalized by the ISO/IEC 10149 standard. There are two data modes. The generally used one is Mode 1, which includes error correction. Mode 2 allows more data, but there’s no error correction, so it’s more subject to data loss. CD-ROM and other data CDs normally are formatted according to the High Sierra standard, standardized in ISO 9660 and ECMA-119. There are three levels of High Sierra. Level 1 is just a foothill, MS-DOS compatible, and rarely found. Level 2 and Level 3 both allow long file names which are case-insensitive; the maximum length depends on the operating system, but is generally at least 180 characters. Only letters, digits, underscores, and periods are allowed in the name. The main difference between these two levels is that Level 3 allows fragmented files. Some extensions to ISO 9660 allow other characters in the filenames. A disc that takes advantage of this might cause problems on operating systems that don’t use the same extensions. The Joliet extension is widely used and allows secondary filenames that can have Unicode characters. Non-Joliet operating system software can read the discs but will see only the ASCII filename. This could be a source of confusion, especially if the file name is in a non-Roman script. The Universal Disk Format (UDF), which is compatible with the ISO 13346 and ECMA-167 standards. UDF supports Unicode file names directly, allows hard and symbolic links, supports a richer set of attributes, and is better suited for adding files to an existing disc. UDF is the usual format for DVDs and has probably surpassed ISO 9660 for CDs by now. Both formats should be viable for a long time, but UDF will undoubtedly win the standards battle until something else comes along. How durable are CDs? Recorded commercial discs are the most durable because they’re made by putting holes in the metal reflective layer. This is a modern version of the ancient and very durable information technology, engraving. For writable and rewritable discs, which are the only options computers normally provide, the storage method is more complicated and less durable. A recordable CD is a sandwich of multiple layers. On top is the label layer, which just holds printed information. Next is a lacquer layer which seals off the vital reflective layer from air. The reflective layer is most often made of aluminum; on the best quality discs it’s made of silver or gold, which are more resistant to oxidation. Under this comes the dye layer, which holds the recorded information. A disc is recorded by burning holes in the dye, which correspond to pits in the metal in a factory-recorded disc. Finally comes a thick transparent layer, usually polycarbonate, through which the laser can shine to read and write the disc. Recordable discs use a metal reflective layer plus a recording layer which contains a dye. These are protected by a clear layer on each side. Usually the reflective layer is made of aluminum, which will oxidize if the seal of the protective layers is imperfect or breaks down. The dye can discolor over time, especially if it’s exposed to light for long periods. The highest-quality discs use gold instead of aluminum, so they won’t oxidize, but they cost a lot more. In the case of a dual-layer recordable DVD, there are two dye layers, with the first one being semi-transparent; the laser can be focused on the appropriate layer. There are three types of dyes in common use. Cyanine or “gold-green” is the least stable. Pthalocyanine (“gold”) and azo (“silver-blue”) are significantly more stable. (Don’t confuse “gold” dye with a gold metallic layer! You can’t tell the metal of a CD from its color.) Some sources say that phthalocyanine is more susceptible to power variation than azo. Properly stored, CDs can last a good long time. It’s hard to put a figure on it, since the likelihood of failure depends so heavily on storage and handling conditions and the original quality of the disc. The most durable CDs, called “archival grade,” are made with phthalocyanine and a gold reflective layer. The quality of the sealing is important; tiny defects can let air through and damage some bits. As long as the metal isn’t exposed to oxidation, even aluminum can last quite a while. Manufacturers’ claims for the best discs sometimes go as high as 300 years, which would let you drop a disc into a time capsule for your descendants, but 25 years is a safer estimate. If you get more than that, it’s a bonus. Surprisingly, a CD is less well-protected on its label side than on its playing side. There is only a thin layer between the reflective layer and the surface of the label. Scratches on the label may do irreparable damage, while scratches on the playing side can sometimes be smoothed out. CDs should be stored at 10-20 degrees C (50-70 degrees F). Cardboard sleeves are OK if they’re good quality, acid-free paper. Jewel cases are better; they should have an internal tray or hub that isn’t broken. Some sources suggest that the paper inserts should be stored separately from the discs to avoid acid contamination. Store CDs upright, not leaning or stacked. Adding a paper label isn’t a good idea for archival CDs. Printed labels have to be applied carefully. Leave wrinkles or apply the label off-center, and you could unbalance the disc and exacerbate whatever other problems it has. Even properly applied, they could cause acid damage or come loose after a period of years. Writing is safer, if you use the right kind of marker. Writing on the label side with a ballpoint pen or other hard instrument can scratch it. The recording layer is closest to the label side, so a scratch from a pen could go through to the data. There’s argument about whether regular permanent markers are better than soft-tipped markers made specifically for CDs. In principle, a marker with a strong solvent could get through the label and damage the recording layer. The “CD-safe” pens aren’t that expensive, and they may in fact improve disc longevity. A good CD printer is a safe option, but they’re expensive. There are devices which can create bulk CD or DVD archives without human intervention — you might say a cloud of DVDs. Large operations might find these useful. Avoid touching or scratching the disc surface. Don’t use compressed-air blowers; these can chill the disc and cause damage. If a disc gets smudged or has data errors, wipe with a soft cloth radially (away from the center, not in a circular direction). If it’s scratched, it may be possible to buff out a small scratch, but don’t use cleaners with abrasives or solvents.
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