SECULAR AND ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES OF CULKOSS. 245

II. E SECULANOTETH D ECCLESIASTICAN O SAN R L ANTIQUITIEF O S CULROSS. BY REV. ARTHUR W. HALLEN, M.A., F.S.A. SOOT., EPISCOPAL MINISTE SF rRO JOHN'S, ALLOA. To write a paper on Culross, in which the abbey is not the principal feature, seems like attemptin e performancgth f Shakspeare'eo s greatest drama, with the part of Hamlet left out; and yet this is what, with your permission, I intend this afternoon in a great measure to do. Not because I am ignorant of the antiquarian and historical interest of the abbey, both unde s earlierit r ecclesiastica d latean lr secular ownerst bu , becauss beeha n t i ebrough t before this Society I ,believe a forme n o , r occasion becausd an , eI hav e found muc Culrossn hi , apart fro abbeye mth , which I venture to think may prove of some interest. The royal of Culross is situated in , though isolated from, the main portion of that county. Culrossiaus are very proud of this position which they hold d havan , e resisted several attempt o transfet s r them to the more convenient, but in their eyes less dignified, jurisdiction sherife oth f Clackmannanf o f . PoliticallyStirline th f o burge ge th ,on s hi group, while county voter attachee se Clackmannaar th o t d n and Kinross electoral district principae Th . l trad Culrosf eo makine th s e useb f go o d t iron girdles, or flat plates for baking oatmeal cakes on, and Scottish soldiers when on the march, were ordered to carry a certain weight of meal and a Culross girdle. The trade is now quite extinct. The parish is still very extensive, but formerly it included the barony of Kincardine, which was united to Tullyallan in 1672. In the records of the Kirk-Session, dated Octobe , 16327 r , ther lis a "f o s tElderi e litn so e nominate to be chosen for the land and for the touue." In the " toune " divi- sion onle th , y nam fifteef o notf e o t Georgs ei nou e Bruc f Carnockeo f o t ,bu the fifteen representing the landward portion, ten are heritors, lairds holding goo dsayo t estates onl n instancei o ,d ytw Sa . theso sd e properties remain, in whole or part, in the possession of the descendants of the then owners, and in both these cases they have passed through females. One repre- sentative of an ancient Culross family, Captain Cuninghame of Balgownie, has this afternoon presente Societe th earlieso e dt yth t cop Godlie "f yo an e 246 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, MAY 14, 1877,

Band," signes ancestorhi y db , John Erskin f Balgownieeo 1557n i , . This has been published amongs e nationath t l document' f Scotlando s . y Ima also state that, in the Kirk-Session records, mention is made of a general signin Covenane th f g o persons 7 164n i 70 t y 3 b . Erskin Erskin,J . G d ean e being amongs e numberth t d againan ; n 1648i ,5 person 49 , s signed, J. Erskine of Balgownie being amongst them. In the year 1633, an Act in favoue burgth f f Culroso hro s ratifie e erectionth s e tow1588n i , th f no , int oa roya l burgh d als e surrendean ,o th smale th r vicaragf o lo r e teinds by Alexander Colvill e 'commendatoth e n schoolmastefavoue ri th f o r f o r Culross made in the same year, 1588. Before proceeding to consider the antiquities, secula religiousd an r Culrossf o , I ,wil extractl w reafe da s from the Kirk-Session records which the session-clerk, Mr Penney, most kindly allowed me to search carefully. After August 1643, ther s thiei s note— " During this intermissio Plaige havinth s ewa e upo toune.r nou " The records recommenced Januar , 16467 y . Coul "Plaigee dth " have scattered the Kirk-Session for two years and a half t December 11, 1678— Doxologiee "Th moves suni e s b go dt whic s nowher here hwa us e n i e sinc restauratioe th e e Governmentth f no , whic accordingls wa h y done eth following Sabbath." November 24, 1730— '' William Young, son to James Young, indweller in Culross, having horsa t ofy b bi fe r somea s e hi tim d face eha th t agod beinan , g notouo t r the whole place, came in and desired that this might be marked and attested in the Session records, that he might have the benefit of an Extract testify- e aforesaids crimey th a an t d r bu , fo An r . ea t loss no hi tin d g ha tha e h t Session grantes desirhi juss reasonabled m ea dhi an t , whic attestes hi y db " ALLAN LOGAN, Minister. " JOHN GEDDES, Minister."

Culross possesses some very good specimens of domestic architecture; foremost amongst these in dignity though not in age, is the abbey, a mansion which took the place of the monks' lodgings around the old abbey church. This hous s estatei havo dt e been buil Edwardy b t , Lord Bruce SECULA ECCLESIASTICAD RAN L ANTIQUITIE CULROSSF SO 7 24 .

of Kinross afted an , r havin ge possessio beeth n e Duudonalni th f no d dan Preston of Valleyfield families, it now belongs agaia to the Bruces, Earls of Elgi Kincardined an n s stylIt f architectur. o e a slightl f o s i ey later date than Heriot's Hospital, perhaps resembling rather some portions of Holyrood. The late Sir Eobert Preston of Valleyfield, although not resid- mucd di improv o , ht it n i s externa eit g in l appearance. Neare centre th r e e villageoth f facind mosan e a ,sea th gs i ,t interesting house callee dth Palace. It consists of a lofty block facing south, and a projecting wing at the west end ; at the back, between the house and the bank, which rises precipitously, is a picturesque though small hanging garden, the terraces being many feet in height, and an ancient " doo cot." The principal entrance is in the west wing. Passing through several low rooms, the most interesting chambe palace th n reacheds ei ri abous i fee8 t i y ;1 tb t smallightes o i tw d 20 ly an ,d windowsb concavA . e wood-lined ceilins gi divided into panels filled with fairly executed, though rather rude pictures : ther explanatore ear y mottoe eacho st , give Latin n i Englis d nan h couplets, painte blacn di k letterdate f thiTh eo .s hous s certainlei y more ancient than the abbey; indeed, though 1611 is one of thejlatea on it, the date e initialth 1597 d armd san an f , Georg so e Bruc I foundthine ear d kan , that portion evee sar n more ancient than that I would. , however, refer Jervise. papeyoa A o ut y b r , Esq., F.S . Scot..A r parn i , ou tf iiio volf o . ii . Proceedings. e e palacmansio th th e wes th f s i o e f to Balgownie—th o nT e prin- cipal portioe estatth f neo lie t soma s e distance toward e nortth s h side parish—buofthe lairthe t d seem havto s e made this town-houshis e principal resilience, havin a gmor e completely country residencs hi n o e estate of Throsk, adjoining Polmaise, in Stirlingshire, on the banks of the Forth also. This house, though olds beeha , n muca h s alteredha d an , moder ne backfrontth t a , ; however circulao tw e rar , staircases, although the summits have been taken off to slope with the roof. Some old tapestry, still preserved in the house, was on the walls until a few years ago; and in a bedroom in the oldest part of the house, is a painting on panel ove fireplace th r e about three fee foury b t , representin Adoratioe gth n e Shepherdsoth f n orchar a wese n f th e BalgownieI o tth .o d t n o d an , d coal-pitol estate e moutn th a ,f s i ,juso h t opposita t whicho a t e t bu , little distance beyond high-water mark anothes i , r entrance. This useo dt 248 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, MAY 14, 1877. protectee b d fro influe tide mwallth th y e b f xmassivo f so e masonry. About eighty or ninety years ago the stones of these walls were taken to Leith for piee th r the drifa ns almos se buildingha t e th t d fille thian p , du s entrance to the pit. It was down the land mouth that, in 1617, James the Sixth wa svisia take Culroso n t to ns whil wa s; probabl e h ee palace th t r ya fo , George Brace was his host, and the Colvilles had still a hold on the abbey. Playing practical jokes is not a wise or safe habit, and King James was sorely moved, when, ascending to daylight, he found himself on a sea-girt island fears Hi treasof .so n were, however, speedily allaye hosts hi y , db an d he was conveyed to shore in a boat. "West of Balgownie is an estate which the Kirk records call Castlehill, but which is now called Dunimarle, which name it had when the Statistical Account was written. Dunimarle is supposed to mean the castle on tlie sead soman , e trace e founa f precipitoub buildin o s n o o t d e ar g s sand- stone rock which also accounts for its other name of Castlehill. Tradi- tion makes it the scene of the murder of Lady Macduff and her children. The present mansion is almost entirely modern, and was built by the late Sharps Mr se co-heiresse Erskineth f o Erskinese e th f on , o s , Baronetf o s Torry, now extinct. The house contains a good library, together with a collection of paintings and works of art well worth a visit. Further to the west still is Blair Castle. This also stands on a precipitous rocky bank ; it is, however, modern. The old house is said to have been built by an Archbishop Hamilton of Glasgow, about the time of the Reformatio n 1632i n . ~No archbisho f thipo s name, however thes wa n, living. John Hamilton of Blair was one of the heritors of the parish. In the town of Culross itself there are several very striking buildings, originality of design being the principal feature of the whole place. On steee th righe f pth o narrote hanon f wdo street sabbeye leadinth o t , p gu is a building, one portion of which rises considerably above the rest, while the circular stair, inside, and the form of the massive hinges, attest its age. Just above this'buildin a hous s gi e wit hsquare-headea d doorwayw no , converted int owindowa , abov Green i t ei k capitals :— O OEO5 nPONOEI KAI IIPONOHSEI. It is called the abbey library, though its date is far too late ; I should rather, take it to be one of the old endowed schools of the place. SECULAR AND ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES OF CULEOSS. 249'

markee stepe th f Th so t cross remainshore th t t shaf,bu moderns i t o T . the east of the town are the ruins of an hospital, founded in 1637 by Thomas, first Ear f Elgino l t o interestinthern bu ,s i e g featur themn i e . The recipients of the charity live in a more modern building erected by Sir Robert Presto f Valleyfieldno . On the north side of the parish is a muir, now wooded in most parts. A great portioe propert th e burg f s th thino f wa f sCulroso hyo d an ; s here Hollingshed, in the Scottish portion of his history, asserts that a battle took place between Suen f Norwao d Malcolyan f mScotlando . I am informed that to the north of Culross Muir is a spot, interesting to those -who love to dwell on the sufferings of the Covenanters, a secluded natural amphitheatre calle Preburyw no d d thi s an popularl,i s y suppose o meat de prayin th n g bur r moundo y , froe facmth t that the forbidden religious meetings were held here. I have mentione de seculamosth d militarf o tan r y antiquitiee th f o s paris d tow an f hCulrosso n . Befor e ecclesiasticaI th etouc n o h l antiquities, there is one interesting relic of the past which, I think, deserves some more extended notice. On the highest ground in the parish, abou a milt e froe seath m, stands Bordie Tower. Thers wa e formerl a wel d l an ymansioa walle , e easit f th do t o nt garde wese th to nt more th l e al domesti w no t cbu portion, o it fbuildine th f s o gonee gd ar an , the tower itsel s onle gabl ha fy d on par ef an eac o t h side remainingt bu ; d position an incline m e a ag froI ,s believo mt dit f moro s ee thawa t i t importance than migh t a firse tsuppose b t d fros sizeit m . Every antiquarian mus allowee b t hobbys havI d hi d ean ,bee n ridin smalga e on l about Bordie Tower for several years. I believe it was important as a beacon station e districtth .f fine o w ,d p Takin thama ta g between Edinburg d royaol d Stirlinglo an hresidencestw e th , a regula, r linf eo castles extends up either side of the Forth; but the line of view between severa f theso l s obstructedei s beacona theid e an us , r emergencsy ian n y wholdestroyede th Bordio ew t positiony No eke . Towee I myselth . s i r f have seen fro , Edinburgmit easte th , o ht Blacknes se southmorth o t e, Stirlin weste froanotheth d e o hi g; mt on l thes interveninal y re b ear g hills. Bordie is open to them all, and to Clackmannan Tower (long owned by a Bruce s waa , s Bordie), from whic beacoe hth n would flash nort o Castlht e Campbel Ochillse th them n n oncd o i l t an ,e li , would spee Strathnllap du n 250 I'KOCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, MAY 14, 1877.

t knotono Perthwo d whethe I . subjece th r beacof o t n signallin bees gha n much studied, but I think that the district of which Bordie Tower forms a centre, woul gooa e db d fiel r exemplifyinfo d e capacitieth g a syste f o s m which must have been of great importance in the days of our fathers, and in suc hdistrica s thia t s portio Scotlandf no , whic subjecs hwa invasioo t t n from abroad frod e highlandsan ,m th A carefu. l e Ordnancstudth f o y e map, on which all ruins are given, and the elevation of ground between them, would I ,fee l convinced, sho wa ver y well devised syste f conveyinmo g intelligence by beacon fires. I may mention, that in some feus granted by stipulatet s Alloaa r wa t i ,e EarMa th f do l that buildings should noe b t erecte obstruco dt look-oue th t t from Alloa Towe Stirlino t r g Castle. There have been three churches or chapels in Culross, viz.:—the old Parish Church, situated at some little distance to the west of the town; the Abbey Church, now used as a parish church; the Blackadder Chapel, situatee town th e eas f th o .t o dt 1. The Blackadder Chapel has been described in an anonymous work printed for private circulation in Edinburgh in 1872, entitled " The Legend Commemorativd san e Celebration Sf so i Kentigern, n thiI s . "&c wor measurea s ki d groun dchapele soute plath f Th no h . wal almoss li t entirely obliterated, as its foundations now lie in the footpath by the side publie oth f c northere roadTh . n plantatioportioe chapee th th n i f no s li n of the estate, and the remains of the pavement and sedilia an; better preservod e e autho"th LegendTh f t .o Kentigern S r f o s " (pag , appendixe89 ) has I ,think , shown that this chape erectes wa l d after 1491, and the few architectural mouldings which remain bear out that view. Whatever interest Culros e reputehavy th s ma sea d birth-plact S f eo Kentigern, it is certain that the chapel on the shore of the sea is compara- tively modern, and that no traces remain of an older shrine on that spot. 2. Though not intending to devote much time to the Abbey, I must giv t i some e brief s mentionfoundee yeath wa r t n I i d121. y b 7 Malcolm, Earl of . It was dedicated to St Mary and St Leof. Its first abbot, Hugh s beforwa , e that abbo f Kinlosso t s monkIt . s belonged Cisterciae th o t n order Whitr o , e Monks, founde t Bernar109n S di y 8b d of Clairvaux. The abbeys of this order in were Melrose, New- battle, Dundrennan, Holmcultram, Kynloss, Glenluce, Sadale, Deer, Balmerinoch, Sweetheart, Machline, and Culross or Kyllenross. John Hog SECULA ECCLKSIAST1CAD RAN L ANTIQUITIE CULROSSF SO 1 25 .

was abbo 1484n i t , when Culros erectes swa d int oburga f baronyho r Si . James Colville, brothe Alexandeo t r r Colville e lasth , t abbot s madwa , e Lord Colville of Culross in 1604, with a grant of the abbey property. It is impossible here to enter into details as to the ' architectural remains, which, though not very extensive, are yet of interest. Slezer's view of Culross give e abbeth s y s earlietoweit d morn i ran r e characteristic form with a roof on it: the present pinnacles were added by the late Sir Robert Preston I hav. e never hear satisfactory dan y opinion giveo t s na e originath l conditio e westh tf e o presennend Th . t western exterior shows that the building did extend, or was intended to extend, westward, s interioit t ba r arrangements must have differed very much froe th m ordinary cruciform abbey church, with central tower : for if the nave was in this case west of the tower, it must have been almost completely shut off from the choir. I am inclined to think that either the nave was removed vera t a y early date thar o , t after preparation beed sha n mad builo et , dit the plan was de/parted from, and the tower left at the west end, instead of in the centre of the building. In the adjoining Bruce Chapel, besides some seventeenth century alabaster effigies, therinterestinn a s ei g brass memorial plate of the heart of Lord Bruce of Kinloss, who was killed in a duel in Holland. Thi s i mentioneds I believe, a monograp n i , y Misb h s Eartshorne, on the " Special Burials and Memorials of Human Hearts." At the north-east side of the chancel there has been a good chapel, the figure which occupied the base of the arch which once opened into the church is now placed erect. Parisd mosol e e th h r tTh Churc venerabl. fa 3 y b s hi e building therd an , e are featme greaf o s t interes s exteriot It abou . it t feer 8 21y siz7 b tJ s ; ei the walls are about 3 feet thick, and are nearly levelled to the ground in many places. I believ. es origina thait n i t l conditio s enterea wa t y ni b d west door, and that on either side were narrow lancet windows,—one of these, situated neae presenth r t south door, remains d measurean , s 2|- feey 6b |t inches. What sor f windowo t s ther e d eas werth an t n i e west gable s impossibli t si o saye t eeaster th : n gable was surmounted a cross y e sockeb th ,which r fo t , formee crowninth f do g copestone, still lies in the churchyard, and shows good early canopy carving. On the e churcth floo f o rh were several long slabs, inscribed with fine floriated crosses, with the knightly sword on one side of the shaft. One of these 2 25 PROCEEDING SOCIETYE U,TH Y F SO 1877. MA ,

slabs bears on the other side of the shaft a device which is very like a pointed arch with a " square " over it. May not this be the monument of the founder of the church, whose name has been utterly lost to us ? Such was the original condition of the church, but long before the Beforma- tion it underwent an alteration, in carrying out which the early memorials a oknightlf y race were taken froe graveth m s thed coveredha y ; the west door was blocked up, and instead of it a north and south door inserted 23 feet from the west end. These doorways have flat lintels, the old memorials slabs being pressed into the service,—two slabs are thus employed for each door, and the interior slabs have had their sculpture plastered over, whic s doubtleshha s preserved theme sculpturTh e .th f eo two exterior slab hidderubbls e si th y enb work that lies between themn i the thickness of the wall, their former lower surfaces being placed outside. The south door has also had a sharp-roofed porch, as the state of the wall shows, but no trace of the foundation of this porch remains. When the church was thus " beautified and adorned " at the cost of its primitive simplicity, it is impossible to say ; but the work did not prosper, for before the Reformation it again fell into decay. The Abbey Church was nearer the town e church'th , nay t i n s,i services were doubtless more attractived an , counte th y laird coul t refreshmendge e refectorth n i t y aftefatiguee th r s e d fieldchurcs oneveth ol f wa devotionse n i rhth e agaib o S o t n. renovated, for in 1633 an Act was passed making the Abbey Church the " lawful parish church," giving as a reason—" As the Abbey Church has been used for preaching since the Reformation, and that the church called the ' Parioche Kirk ' where service is not, nor has been since the memory of man, is altogether ruinous, decayed, and fallen down in certain parts." , howeverIt , long e burying-placcontinueth e b o t d f tho ee parishd an , outside and insido its ruined walls are well-executed monumental slabs, in some cases taking the form of altar tombs, and nearly all of them having coats of arms or trade marks. But even in the matter of burial, the more powerful families prepare r themselvefo d a resting-placs e abbeth n yi e churchyard e BraceTh .f Carnoc o s k hav emortuara y chapel ho s a,e yth e Prestons of Valleyfield; and on April 27, 1647, Sir John Erskyne of Balgownie requestn o , , obtaine granda burial-placf o t norte th n heo side churce oth f h abbey) e (thath s i tlittl e ,t nig "th ebu o h t aisl e (probable yth chapel I have already referred to), and gable of the church, with liberty SECULAR AND ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES OF CULROSS. 253

builo t dlofa t withi side,e nth "