Notes on the Secular and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Culross. by Rev. Arthur W. Hallen, M.A., F.S.A. Soot., Episcopal Minister
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SECULAR AND ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES OF CULKOSS. 245 II. E SECULANOTETH D ECCLESIASTICAN O SAN R L ANTIQUITIEF O S CULROSS. BY REV. ARTHUR W. HALLEN, M.A., F.S.A. SOOT., EPISCOPAL MINISTE SF rRO JOHN'S, ALLOA. To write a paper on Culross, in which the abbey is not the principal feature, seems like attemptin e performancgth f Shakspeare'eo s greatest drama, with the part of Hamlet left out; and yet this is what, with your permission, I intend this afternoon in a great measure to do. Not because I am ignorant of the antiquarian and historical interest of the abbey, both unde s earlierit r ecclesiastica d latean lr secular ownerst bu , becauss beeha n t i ebrough t before this Society I ,believe a forme n o , r occasion becausd an , eI hav e found muc Culrossn hi , apart fro abbeye mth , which I venture to think may prove of some interest. The royal burgh of Culross is situated in Perthshire, though isolated from, the main portion of that county. Culrossiaus are very proud of this position which they hold d havan , e resisted several attempt o transfet s r them to the more convenient, but in their eyes less dignified, jurisdiction sherife oth f Clackmannanf o f . PoliticallyStirline th f o burge ge th ,on s hi group, while county voter attachee se Clackmannaar th o t d n and Kinross electoral district principae Th . l trad Culrosf eo e makinth s e useb f go o d t iron girdles, or flat plates for baking oatmeal cakes on, and Scottish soldiers when on the march, were ordered to carry a certain weight of meal and a Culross girdle. The trade is now quite extinct. The parish is still very extensive, but formerly it included the barony of Kincardine, which was united to Tullyallan in 1672. In the records of the Kirk-Session, dated Octobe , 16327 r , ther lis a "f o s t Elderi e litn so e nominate to be chosen for the land and for the touue." In the " toune " divi- sion onle th , y nam fifteef o notf e o t Georgs ei nou e Bruc f Carnockeo f o t ,bu the fifteen representing the landward portion, ten are heritors, lairds holding goo dsayo t estates onl n instancei o ,d ytw Sa . theso sd e properties remain, in whole or part, in the possession of the descendants of the then owners, and in both these cases they have passed through females. One repre- sentative of an ancient Culross family, Captain Cuninghame of Balgownie, has this afternoon presente Societe th earlieso e dt yth t cop Godlie "f yo an e 246 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, MAY 14, 1877, Band," signes ancestorhi y db , John Erskin f Balgownieeo 1557n i , . This has been published amongs e nationath t l document' f Scotlando s . y Ima also state that, in the Kirk-Session records, mention is made of a general signin Covenane th f g o persons 7 164n i 70 t y 3 b . Erskin Erskin,J . G d ean e being amongs e numberth t d againan ; n 1648i ,5 person 49 , s signed, J. Erskine of Balgownie being amongst them. In the year 1633, an Act in favoue burgth f f Culroso hro s ratifie e erectionth s e tow1588n i , th f no , int oa roya l burgh d als e surrendean ,o th smale th r vicaragf o lo r e teinds by Alexander Colvill e 'commendatoth e n schoolmastefavoue ri th f o r f o r Culross made in the same year, 1588. Before proceeding to consider the antiquities, secula religiousd an r Culrossf o , I ,wil extractl w reafe da s from the Kirk-Session records which the session-clerk, Mr Penney, most kindly allowed me to search carefully. After August 1643, ther s thiei s note— " During this intermissio Plaige havinth s ewa e upo toune.r nou " The records recommenced Januar , 16467 y . Coul "Plaigee dth " have scattered the Kirk-Session for two years and a half t December 11, 1678— Doxologiee "Th moves suni e s b go dt whic s nowher here hwa us e n i e sinc restauratioe th e e Governmentth f no , whic accordingls wa h y done eth following Sabbath." November 24, 1730— '' William Young, son to James Young, indweller in Culross, having horsa t ofy b bi fe r somea s e hi tim d face eha th t agod beinan , g notouo t r the whole place, came in and desired that this might be marked and attested in the Session records, that he might have the benefit of an Extract testify- e aforesaids crimey th a an t d r bu , fo An r . ea t loss no hi tin d g ha tha e h t Session grantes desirhi juss reasonabled m ea dhi an t , whic attestes hi y db " ALLAN LOGAN, Minister. " JOHN GEDDES, Minister." Culross possesses some very good specimens of domestic architecture; foremost amongst these in dignity though not in age, is the abbey, a mansion which took the place of the monks' lodgings around the old abbey church. This hous s estatei havo dt e been buil Edwardy b t , Lord Bruce SECULA ECCLESIASTICAD RAN L ANTIQUITIE CULROSSF SO 7 24 . of Kinross afted an , r havin ge possessio beeth n e Duudonalni th f no d dan Preston of Valleyfield families, it now belongs agaia to the Bruces, Earls of Elgi Kincardined an n s stylIt f architectur. o e a slightl f o s i ey later date than Heriot's Hospital, perhaps resembling rather some portions of Holyrood. The late Sir Eobert Preston of Valleyfield, although not resid- mucd di improv o , ht it n i s externa eit g in l appearance. Neare centre th r e e villageoth f facind mosan e a ,sea th gs i ,t interesting house callee dth Palace. It consists of a lofty block facing south, and a projecting wing at the west end ; at the back, between the house and the bank, which rises precipitously, is a picturesque though small hanging garden, the terraces being many feet in height, and an ancient " doo cot." The principal entrance is in the west wing. Passing through several low rooms, the most interesting chambe palace th n reacheds ei ri abous i fee8 t i y ;1 tb t smallightes o i tw d 20 ly an ,d windowsb concavA . e wood-lined ceilins gi divided into panels filled with fairly executed, though rather rude pictures : ther explanatore ear y mottoe eacho st , give Latin n i Englis d nan h couplets, painte blacn di k letterdate f thiTh eo .s hous s certainlei y more ancient than the abbey; indeed, though 1611 is one of thejlatea on it, the date e initialth 1597 d armd san an f , Georg so e Bruc I foundthine ear d kan , that portion evee sar n more ancient than that I would. , however, refer Jervise. papeyoa A o ut y b r , Esq., F.S . Scot..A r parn i , ou tf iiio volf o . ii . Proceedings. e e palacmansio th th e wes th f s i o e f to Balgownie—th o nT e prin- cipal portioe estatth f neo lie t soma s e distance toward e nortth s h side parish—buofthe lairthe t d seem havto s e made this town-houshis e principal resilience, havin a gmor e completely country residencs hi n o e estate of Throsk, adjoining Polmaise, in Stirlingshire, on the banks of the Forth also. This house, though olds beeha , n muca h s alteredha d an , moder ne backfrontth t a , ; however circulao tw e rar , staircases, although the summits have been taken off to slope with the roof. Some old tapestry, still preserved in the house, was on the walls until a few years ago; and in a bedroom in the oldest part of the house, is a painting on panel ove fireplace th r e about three fee foury b t , representin Adoratioe gth n e Shepherdsoth f n orchar a wese n f th e BalgownieI o tth .o d t n o d an , d coal-pitol estate e moutn th a ,f s i ,juso h t opposita t whicho a t e t bu , little distance beyond high-water mark anothes i , r entrance. This useo dt 248 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, MAY 14, 1877. protectee b d fro influe tide mwallth th y e b f xmassivo f so e masonry. About eighty or ninety years ago the stones of these walls were taken to Leith for piee th r the drifa ns almos se buildingha t e th t d fille thian p , du s entrance to the pit. It was down the land mouth that, in 1617, James the Sixth wa svisia take Culroso n t to ns whil wa s; probabl e h ee palace th t r ya fo , George Brace was his host, and the Colvilles had still a hold on the abbey. Playing practical jokes is not a wise or safe habit, and King James was sorely moved, when, ascending to daylight, he found himself on a sea-girt island fears Hi treasof .so n were, however, speedily allaye hosts hi y , db an d he was conveyed to shore in a boat. "West of Balgownie is an estate which the Kirk records call Castlehill, but which is now called Dunimarle, which name it had when the Statistical Account was written.