Thailand Understand & Survival (Chapter)

Edition 14th Edition, February 2012 Pages 106 PDF Page Range 695-791

Coverage includes: Understand Thailand, Thailand Today, History, The People & Culture, Thai Temples, Festivals, Eating in Thailand, Environment & Wildlife, Survival Guide, Directory, Transport and Glossary.

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THAILAND TODAY ...... 696 Thailand’s economy has continued to boom despite the political uncertainty since the 2006 coup.

HISTORY & POLITICS ...... 699 Great ancient kingdoms, religions and dynasties have left their mark on how this nation has evolved.

THE PEOPLE & CULTURE ...... 721 Despite its outward homogeneity, many subtle regional dif- ferences exist in the country, often inﬂ uened by Thailand’s neighbours.

EATING IN THAILAND ...... 738 For many visitors, the amazing food is one of the main reasons for choosing Thailand as a destination.

THE SEX INDUSTRY IN THAILAND ...... 746 Since the Vietnam War, Thailand has gained a reputation as an international sex-tourism destination.

ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE...... 749 Thailand’s border contains lush rainforest, weathered peaks, inviting ﬁ sh-ﬁ lled seas and those glorious islands and white- sand beaches. population per sq km 696 THAILAND USA UK

≈ 32 people

Thailand Today

Political Stability? After a fi ve-year period of political instability initiated by the 2006 coup d’état, Thailand has reached a political plateau with the 2011 general election. Ousted prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s politically allied party, Puea Thai, won a clear majority of parliamentary seats, and his sister Yingluck Shinawatra, a political novice, was elected prime minister. She is Thailand’s fi rst female prime minister and this is the fi fth straight electoral win for a Thaksin-backed political party. The people have clearly spoken and so far there has been no resistance from opposition groups or the military. Prime minister Yingluck’s fi rst days in offi ce set about fulfi lling campaign promises, such as raising the national minimum wage to 300B per day (a 30% increase), extending symbolic olive branches to the monarchy and the military and pledging to work towards national reconciliation. Thailand’s politi- Her appointments for the important cabinet-level positions of security cal protestors are and defence sidestepped hardliners in favour of two candidates who are divided into red believed to straddle the political/military divide. and yellow colour- The next question mark in Yingluck’s administration is if or when coded camps and they swap she will issue a pardon for Thaksin to return from exile. Currently he is anti-government barred from politics until 2012 and is evading a two-year prison term. So positions depend- far Thaksin has publicly stated that he has no plans to return to Thai- ing on which land, though this statement was made from Japan where he appeared group holds the to be on a diplomatic appointment. During the campaign, Thaksin de- prime minister’s chair. scribed his sister as his ‘clone’ and spoke of an indeterminate future when he would return to the country. According to an Asia Time’s article (August 25, 2011), the government was described by a source as operating like a family business with Yingluck as the fi gurehead and Thaksin as the CEO.

Do & Don’ts Top Films » Do take off your shoes when » Stand respectfully for the Uncle Boonmee Who Can Re- entering a home or temple. Be national anthem (unless you’re call His Past Lives (ApichatTop careful where you put your feet inside a home or building other pong Weerasethakul; 2010) Win- (considered filthy in Thailand). than a theatre). ner of Cannes 2010 Palm d’Or. » Don’t criticise the monarchy. » Dress modestly (cover to the Bangkok Traﬃ c Love Story » Do smile: it puts Thais at ease. elbows and ankles) for visits to (Adisorn Tresirikasem; 2009) Romantic comedy with public- » Don’t argue or get visibly angry; temples or buildings associated you’ll cause embarrassment. with the monarchy. transit message. belief systems if Thailand were 697 (% of population) 100 people

Buddhist 75 would be Thai 14 would be Chinese 11 would be Other 5 1 Muslim Christian

Regardless of the division of power, Thais in general seem fatigued from the previous years’ political distress, which undermines a deep- seated sense of a unifi ed ‘Thai-ness’ and a cultural aversion to displays of violence and anger. Bangkokians, especially, are exhausted by the hassles of traffi c jams and road closures that accommodate the seemingly » Population: endless exercise of freedom of assembly. 66.7 million During the height of the 2010 crisis, the Western press was intrigued » GDP: $580.3 by the apparent class divide that defi ned the two political sides: the billion proletariat (pro-Thaksin) Red Shirts and the aristocratic (anti-Thaksin) » GDP per Yellow Shirts. But Thai intellectuals feel this is an over-simplifi cation of capita: US$8700 the situation and that the lines aren’t as clearly drawn. In the middle of » the extremes are the uncolour coded Thais who have sympathies with Unemploy- ment: 1.2% both sides. They might agree with the Red Shirts on the grounds of » restoring democracy and disapproving of the military’s and the court’s Education spending: 4.1% meddling in politics, but they are sceptical of the Red Shirts’ unques- of GDP tioning loyalty to Thaksin. For the political troubles in Thailand’s south, see the boxed text, p 596. The Ageing King Thais don’t often discuss the topic openly but many are worried about their beloved monarch, King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX). Now in his mid-80s, he is the world’s longest-serving king and is respected, and virtually worshipped, by his subjects. But as the king’s health has declined, his role in society has diminished. He has been hospitalised for nearly two years and his public appearances are so rare that they make laudatory coverage in Thai national news. In King Bhumibol’s more active years, he was viewed as a stabilising force in times of political crisis. But he has not exercised that role during

Top Books Agrarian Utopia (Uruphong Very Thai (Philip Cornwell- Raksasad; 2009) The daily Smith) Colourful photos and rhythms and fi nancial struggles essays on Thailand’s quirks. of farmers in northern Thailand. Chronicle of Thailand (William White Buff alo (Shinoret Kham- Warren ) History of the last 50 wandee; 2011) A man returns to years. his Isan village to fi nd that all the local ladies love Western men. ------. end p erience p ower-con p dent in the fi erformed but p but rebounded ic and even styl p p ite the bloody Bangkok reviously artly due to the im p p p assing and the hilanthro p p licate a smooth transfer of crown : misfortune seem to stick. doesn’t p y investors remain con investors ected meaning that unem for 2011, , p . that rivalled the boom times of the mid ted the colour yellow, which is the colour which ted the colour yellow, p rime minister Thaksin. Beginning in 2006, p ective, you’d neverthat Thailand know is so ective, you’d on econom on p fl y roblems com p ers p arent, his son the Crown Prince Vajiralongkorn, has Vajiralongkorn, arent, his son the Crown Prince . olitical troubles, which are olitical troubles, which n ned through his life what many regarded as the mod many ned through his life what p fi pp educated, family-oriented, educated, family-oriented, ( so olitical

o p orts of then- ff ects on the economy. In 2008 to 2009, manufacturing and In ects on the economy. ff ower vacuum will result after that his on Econom on fl p . The heir a orts, which constitute about half of GDP, took a di orts,half of GDP, which constitute about ) m father t Losing ruled for more than the king will be a national tragedy: he has p o loyment remains relatively low and that Thais continue to ex olitically divided. The has moved into the former Asian tiger economy olitical interests of the monarchy a year later with a growth rate assumed many of the royal duties his father assumed many fr associated with the king’s birthday, to signal their allegiance with the birthday, associated with the king’s the anti-Thaksin faction ado the anti-Thaksin clashes in 2010. High growth is ex High clashes in 2010. 1990s.or without democracy With p Te an economic From p p ern Thai man ish the most recent ing solidating e 60 years and de Outside forces – the global recession, a weakening US dollar – had some US Outside forces – the global recession, a weakening negative e ex new as a Te millennium stable and increasing standards of living. Modernisation marches on stable and increasing standards of living. Modernisation country, and tourism continues to grow des country, the ongoing a pink shirt. don’t want to to want don’t ance, the king the king ance, public appear- pink shirts as a pink shirts Thais who want Thais who want his most recent recent his most claim a political claim a political love the king but love himself also wore wore also himself to show that they that they show to identity now wear wear identity now neutral colour. On On colour. neutral

698 THAILAND TODAY 699

History & Politics History Thai history begins as a story of migrants heading into a frontier land claimed by distant empires for trade, forced labour and patronage. Eventually the nascent country develops its own powerful entities that unite feuding localities and begins to fuse a national identity around language, religion and monarchy. The kings resist colonisation from the expansionist Western powers on its border only to cede their absolute grip on the country when challenged from forces within. Since the tran- sition to a constitutional monarchy in 1932, the military predominately rules the country with a few democratic hiccups in between. Ancient History Little evidence remains of the cultures that existed in Thailand before the middle of the 1st millennium AD. Homo erectus fossils in Thailand’s northern province of Lampang date back at least 500,000 years, and the country’s most important archaeological site is Ban Chiang, outside of Udon Thani, which provides evidence of one of the world’s oldest agrarian societies. It is believed that Mekong River Valley and Khorat Plateau were inhabited as far back as 10,000 years ago by farmers and bronze-workers. Cave paintings in Pha Taem National Park near Ubon Ratchathani date back some 3000 years. Early Empires Starting in the 1st millennium, the ‘Tai’ people, considered to be the ancestors of the contemporary Thais, began migrating in waves from southern China into present-day Southeast Asia. These immigrants spoke Tai-Kadai, said to be the most signiﬁ cant ethno-linguistic group in South- east Asia. Some settled in the river valleys of modern-day Thailand while others chose parts of modern-day Laos and the Shan state of Myanmar.

4000–2500 6th–11th 9–13th BC centuries centuries Prehistoric people Dvaravati establish Angkor extends develop pottery, city-states in central control across parts of rice cultivation and Thailand. Thailand. bronze metallurgy in northeastern Thailand. PAUL BEINSSEN/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

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k l rofound . p er the rule er the e is Laos, an l d d were S into the cen osts exten s ortant tra d p un p , ). tures that esta anguage. e out the Dvara g l e. Litt l l ture emerge l an . l ires, including the ires, including im d istinctive Dvaravati l p cu d ital d an Malay ing out l p eu·an ( ecome the core of the d b m

ars sing e routes that might have the Khmer eriod in Thailand eys the centra into l , s severa tra d p ll ld forces from the north and d uence d ings of ﬂ y hon Pathom might have might have hon Pathom d ire. This kingdom became fa tions in Mon tions in Mon k rojects im were a symbol of foreign’ em foreign’ wn a of the Tai state. Over time, the Over time, state. Tai of the ‘ p n p p ﬁ o k ut scho ion. Established in the 9th centu resent-day central and northeast resent-day y ian-in the tra g b oc p b kn d d

les of the day’s most advanced tech les of the day’s ital in Angkor (modern-day Cambo (modern-day ital in Angkor s bl and Srivijaya and Srivijaya with the Mon peop with the Mon d p p ) d uenced b that Na e routes an ﬂ d ia, north to Chiang Mai an ia, north to Chiang Mai d ing d Ruins at Sukhothai Historical Ruins Park at ence ture and architecture and had a for what wou » o ld d p k tra b ieve stone inscri l ui egacy an d d l e b b ion of the re an trative unit trative Cambodia l g ( s . es an ture associate parts Burma, western Thai of pl l ateau, where there existe where there ateau, d ut it is pl eninsula was economically and culturally to cul fused b y framewor

buri (then known as Lavo), Sukhothai and Phimai (near buri (then known as Lavo), l p admini ecame the ecame d p that over ves in Southeast Asia, o b l uivalent of the Roman Em uivalent of the Roman d hist cu from the northern from mountain va anded westward across anded westward i q d erio p int ominate e dd p s ay Thaiay state d d 1240–1438 an ear d , that r d Sukhothai kingdom. d s the northeast, as evi an e e elve Approximate dates of of dates Approximate themse ains. In the 6thains. In to 9th cu Dvaravati centuries, the ecause of its artistic d p ies. Khmer elements – Hinduism, Brahmanism, Theravada Bud ies. Khmer Brahmanism, Theravada Hinduism, elements – ower in its frontier and exam ha images, tem l s d or d ern- b l g p northeastern p d l dd e Mon The Khmer’s large-scale construction The Khmer’s They organised and traders and hunters as farmers, villages in settled The Dvaravati was one of many In was one of many The Dvaravati d out this varavat rivijaya ect on the art and reli h rovi istinct Bu b ﬀ ati ishe e Tai ex Tai the centre, an east Asia’s e east Asia’s were built in Lo an centres ruled by various indigenous and by various indigenous centres ruled a mo Mon-Dvaravati, Khmer Mon-Dvaravati, of a S While mainland Thailand was in tures further the 8th south. Between and 13th centuries, the Malay dia) and ex tem ern Thailand. Administrative centres anchored by Angkor-style nolo Buddhism – mark this dhism and Mahayana Khm are an historical mystery While the Dvaravati scul mous for its extravagant the Khmer kingdom built its ca ry, west to Burma, east to Cam west to Burma, east to towar l v p D T tra d them Nakhon Ratchasima) and linked by road to the ca linked Ratchasima) and Nakhon rial Bu west, the Malay west, the Malay in Thailand.in in 1592. them ‘Syam’. them ‘Syam’. transliterated transliterated English trader trader English at Angkor Wat Wat at Angkor The name was The name was Relief Relief carvings depict Tai mer- depict Tai 10th century to ‘Siam’ by the by ‘Siam’ to Arrival peoples of Tai cenaries serving serving cenaries James Lancaster Lancaster James in Khmer armies. in Khmer armies. The Khmer called The Khmer called

700 HISTORY & POLITICS HISTORY HISTORY & POLITICS HISTORY 701

1511 nations. (2009) (2009) Top Reads History History Thailand: A Thailand: A History A of of Chronicle

» » » Short History David by (2003) K Wyatt Thailand Chris Baker by Phong- and Pasuk paichit Thailand: Head- 1946 Since lines William by (2010) Warren foreign mission in Portuguese found by other European Ayuthaya, followed

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p y re l ersists in p ains unit ll l p resent- ian Ocean. y and l p d ) p e e of the 12th l ing their ne d k otentia In lay atronage of the ddl p d p p hamhaeng of Su eration stan ang on Sumatra. ang on

near l k d l b etween neigh am, creatin . 1351–1767 l ture that is recognise b ates its formation to l rominence a rominence ital. The king was d ita Reign of Ayuthaya. south to Chiang Mai d p em p l p , d wars with riva for successfu d eriod shadow d d ( p

ering an g k l ite iances with King Ram d ic its ca ower and military might. The ll b for its roya ities in the centra d erience an extensive ex hism in the 13th century, whi hism in the 13th century, p d l uence of Is the perio een in Pa een in d ﬂ p ay. Remains of Srivijaya cu Srivijaya Remains of ay. à·lun d b dd d đ hism that is now wi eration of the Srivijaya which con which the Srivijaya of eration s . ishe the so cre ires started to decline and 1292 l d y 14th century. d hon Si Thammarat. Many art forms hon Si Thammarat. Many dd l p bl Bu ng e k l ă d ying Khmer empire, ma tely united into various kingdoms that tely united into various ortant a om an n d te p principa er the in d Na l a Bu Rising of Happiness’). Thais consider Su Rising of Happiness’). p to have to have ‘ d d o d d im d ing ynastic intrigues an so recognise l d in northern Thai k un a d ngdom inga esta d ll ening. l ieve d the capital of Lanna. i y Chiang Mai becomes l istinctive northern Thai cu k ersists to this ersists to this etween South China the Sea an b e remain today ra

d p b from the ase b ), b d l K b forge e om, such as i d awa is d om is a d Chaiya an l l d uering them. He then migrate uering them. He d ague q om, ing of the d pl a, Tam ay. King Mengrai is a King Mengrai ay. ing invasions in the ear invasions k tura contro l ong River town of Chiang Saen in the mi d l l k d ition of Therava d 1283 k i rst true Thai er the sway of the confe of sway er the d ing ary which ronze statue commemorating this confe ﬁ y con ng Ta ng d an cu omat an k b d new city’) his ca in 1292 to establish ukhothai (meaning Sukhothai. i b King Mengrai, who sett King Mengrai, ‘ d d S pl i eninsu by an er Me d oun l p a at wreste

maritime tra maritime as it was ese tra l Early Thai script script Thai Early b invented by King l eting ultima were city-states e seen aroun d d d pp d p e b e hon Si Thammarat an ay Ramkhamhaeng of of Ramkhamhaeng nn l ll ll a was un a was k e Lanna Of the series of Srivijaya city-states that grew to city-states series of Srivijaya Of the The Lanna an l i a a a hiang Mai to hiang Mai h erio egan to establish a Thai identity. Scholars recognise Lanna, Scholars recognise Sukhothai egan to establish a Thai identity. hothai the hothai; a d k he u meaning he states further south fe classical dance-drama he region. The Lanna kingdom didn't ex ro artistic an can com such as King Ngam Muang of Phayao an of Phayao such as King Ngam Muang k s capita Sukhotha severa During the 13th century, e in Thai t p k C ing the Mongo ing towns ( L T t b as the unifying kingdoms of the and Ayuthaya ( Emerg the regional em the 13th In century, with localised emerged city-states ous Tai t gious M N su t Sinha century of the Srivijaya of the Srivijaya The Srivijaya capita The Srivijaya - - - - d d d eas re ﬁ d

i d a Bu 1782 hon Si d , who is, who ie (divine d k , the Su g a ) y foreign f of Thai l b ppl . It survive d ominate Chao ey in Laos an d ll Therava as the new capital. devaraja erio 1448–86 d anguage an ( p l dynasty and Bangkok ing rivers, Ayuthaya ing rivers, Ayuthaya Founding of the Chakri to the Gu l c as far as Na as far d ﬁ ishe ortantkingdom early amkhamhaen d egan to p . y that time another star y that time another e bl R b b d discovered’ Southeast Asia ‘ ut (righteous king); Ayuthaya (righteous king); Ayuthaya om y encirc ong River Va b a during the 17th age century’s d Among the Asian nations, the b ements. Accounts ‘ 1768 s was s was k ,

l erior Portuguese-su so esta including much of the former including much of the g f as a Khmer l k d ( l p o ing l King King Taksin k om exten olitan markets and court. In 1690olitan markets and court. In er Me d p . ight of the Khmer l pp ll himse ts. He a ts. He om of Ayuthaya ing uence establishes a new ﬂ d p k capital in Thonburi. in capital roclaimed, f with su e dhammaraja gd l l we p s in . a k s cosmo ’ to Phitsanu fer ocation forme itse l d p ion

ds . d hothai hothai g d i e k l an ﬁ , the many foreign sett foreign many l here of in an d uring the twi d l Khmer court customs, honori p re Khmer scri ing the modern Thaiing the which is based system, writing d l d 1767 d p an l ning itself as Siam’s most im as Siam’s ning itself forti te ﬁ tructure d p s and a fundamental role in organising the modern Thai and a fundamental role eriod when Western traders eriod when Western

cia was move asin o in southern Burma. For a short time Burma. For in southern l ) ﬃ l p ) b d the Burmese.the u ansive s ire cia ita g a . The monarch sty the hinter p p p -14th century, the-14th century, Ayuthaya rime, the Su rime, o p in Thai so mercenaries. Theriver system connecte Pe d

p g t ( d d d ian, Mon an ian, Mon o Ayuthaya is sacked by d g an yuthaya a yuthaya ingshi Ayuthaya hoste Ayuthaya d k

This is the A With a strategic is In its its In Themost revered kin Sukhothai of the d hism as the o hism as hothai ca isitors mention Ayuthaya tate an an Khmer em kingdom of Siam is the greatest’. on In king) rather than Sukhothai’s king) rather than Sukhothai’s l v for 416 years, de s arms an to Ba k Ayuthay the mi In d credited for develocredited was risin of an Phraya River Phraya Londoner Engelbert Cam Thammarat to the u in the south, with an ex grew through international trade wealthy of commerce an French. 1688 In the 1680s, Narai recruited the services of the Greek adventurer Constantine Constantine adventurer the Greek of the services recruited Narai In the 1680s, is followed by the Sites King Narai dies and Ancient Ancient the expulsion of the Phaulkon, who was later accused of conspiring to overthrow the ailing king. Instead, the Instead, the ailing king. overthrow to conspiring of accused later who was Phaulkon, Constantine. and executed led a coup accusers FRIENDS OF THE KING who King Narai, by Ayuthaya to invited were emissaries foreign many In the 1680s placed His court and ideas. culture material, foreign and consume acquire to keen was foun- wine and marble cheese, trees, walnut paper, hourglasses, spyglasses, for orders and in Lopburi at his palace the eclipse observe to Jesuits He joined the French tains. XIV. King Louis France’s a globe from a gift of received Phimai Histori- Lopburi Lopburi Khmer Nakhon Si Sukhothai Chiang Saen Ayuthaya Ayuthaya Palace Revolution and

» » » » » » cal Park cal ruins Na- Thammarat tional Museum Historical Park Historical Park Historical Historical Park Historical

702 HISTORY & POLITICS HISTORY HISTORY & POLITICS HISTORY 703

1874 Era of the of film trilogy, blockbuster blockbuster government. by filmmaker filmmaker by Bangkok became a cult became the Thai army. the Thai army. Chatrichalerm a high-budget, a high-budget, worshipped by by worshipped King Naresuan King Naresuan, part by the Thai the by part Yukol, funded in Yukol, Wat Wat Arun Kaew Phra Wat Dusit Palace is portrayed as a is portrayed figure, especially especially figure, national hero and national hero His story inspired inspired His story Landmarks Landmarks

» » » & Grand Palace & Grand Park Slavery is abolished. is Slavery

- - . y y y a ut ci- ri en, ital s b l am h osed p R p ital in ( p ractices dynast dern out. The p this ritu this g roduction o ansion b d d p estroying it e p e eges. d l p d ulations were r m countries. o p baun commercia rivi o g d Reign of King e wi t f p p Naresuan. T Naresuan.

s efore l pl g in neighbouringin ansionist Burmese. ansionist b an V) and increased 1868–1910 p n l i eo ing, Bayinnaung, . p k

d Chulalongkorn (Rama (Rama Chulalongkorn itica European imperialism imperialism European l . of K o p y the ex and established the Chakri p ) eror, who rewar eror, b

for a year p l commercia d god Vishnu, ed with the Hindu ings an d fi tion of the Burmese as ruthless tion of the Burmese te organisers, Chao Phraya Chakri organisers, Chao Phraya ershi ita Siam. ld p p p d p ama I 1855 ui . R ea b ( l erce uence in every direction. Destroying les fl p p orted to China , its p Bowring Treaty d Siam and Britain er the er the romoted trade with China. ortant role in increasing the rice d p p concluded between stimulating the Thai ower, King Taksin, the son of a Chinese the son father King Taksin, ower, ersists in the minds of many Thais minds of many ersists in the day to this to British subjects in orated into new laws, manuals of government orated into new laws, extraterritorial rights rights extraterritorial p p en to the great Burmese the great Burmese en to p siege to the ca siege to the economy and granting King Yot Fa Fa King Yot ll d evastate iminate Ayuthaya as a iminate Ayuthaya s Era l ute to the Chinese to the ute em d ai fa otential rivals, and established his newotential rivals, and established ca l b k ence un d p s ositioned themselves as defenders of Buddhism. Theositioned themselves as defenders of Buddhism. d ne a o p p to e ilations and Thai of essential Buddhist texts translations o d k en p in ruins, the line of succession of the kings was broken in ruins, the line of succession layed an im layed ay tri ay uence. p p fl p e ya a d h to mission with generous gifts with generous mission an a settlement downriver from Ayuthaya with better access to with better downriver from Ayuthaya a settlement , d b 1851–68 in ories of Ayuthaya were interru Ayuthaya ories of ut rst centuryrule focused of Bangkok had on rebuilding what l ital cities of both Laos and Cambodia, Siam contained Burmese fi d eastwar y reserved or incor p d p A e in the mid-19th century. Siam turned to the We e in the mid-19th century. c and technological ideas and reforms in education, infrastructurec and technological ideas and reforms e Bang fi h p umed the thr . Burmese troo t Towards the end of his 15 years on the throne, the king was de end of his 15 years on the throne, the king was the Towards In the meantime, a new social order and market economy was taking the meantime, a new order and market social economy In Unlike the Ayuthaya rulers who identi the Ayuthaya Unlike The The g h l istic su of Western in ractice, texts religious and historical and literature. At the same time, ushe een lost when Ayuthaya was sacked. Surviving was sacked. knowledge and een lost when Ayuthaya ss l a esettled and esettled egaine he Chakri kings he new their defence activities rulers transformed into ex he ca oes and aggressors still Reign of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and a period trade. Consolidating his trade. Consolidating his a across Chao Phraya River to modern-day Bangkok River to modern-day across Chao Phraya and chaos ensued. A former general, Taksin, claimed his right to rule, claimed his right general, Taksin, and chaos ensued. A former handily defeating and Thai mother, strongly strongly and Thai mother, means of war, extending their in means of war, undertook com in 1767. The was city in 1767. Thonburi dynasty, which still rules today. The new ca monarch moved the which still rules today. dynasty, t r p t t b f T Wi p v r continue a and legal systems. One of the great modernisers, King Mongkut enti surrounding areas were deserted.surrounding historic sacking So chilling was this that the Ayuthaya and razing of In 1569 the city ha the city 1569 In aggression and made a vassal of Chiang Mai. Defeated aggression made a vassal of Chiang and Mai. and constructed royal tem many were of Siam, much of which was ex in 1765, Burma’s ambitious and newly ambitious Kon established Burma’s in 1765, One of the cou military. by the in 1782 sha DIANA MAYFIELD/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

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o ce ned as ned ut Prathet Thai , fi e et system, ce d p ired by the dem b fu one another to one d l on the strict on the k ff p i an d and British Burma Western sciences. Western k l s, were ) the kingdom of the easant aysia ut was im state labour d ( l ( ll p p ase mar ie eriod. Chulalongkorn’s eriod. Chulalongkorn’s country in a mo b d f Siam p ld was to take much was to take d l ) South region continues to owers o as a s p were ins p much of the centuries-o rights to British su rights to British stu d of Ma ne , l royalists, military, civilians royalists, military, p l fi e d ( ines. Universa itse . l e ence, Thai d d ureaucracy, a ureaucracy, d d ower regime. Even the Peo ower regime. Even e ean ama V y Western forms. The architec y Western b er with the mo p ll

p y en b R d court increasing ean

d ll p l The Dee ish an d p d ( e or gl bureaucrats calling them cers and d l ffi y arie hica l ace Cambodia in 1907 , korn ( korn p En om into the wor om into the g pl rought uniformity to the rought uniformity onger ca d itica d Wat Arun on theBangkok Chao Phraya River, l ues an l e the new throne ha , Siam concluded treaties with Western Western treaties with concluded , Siam b extraterritoria » . In 1902, the former Pattani kingdom was 1902, the former Pattani . In ) le’s Party) mounted a successful, bloodless Party) le’s q re k ) orn was regar aying Euro aying , rival factions i d p d l k ong Euro ing p po l pl the Thammayut sect the Thammayut k s. During his monastic career, he career, his monastic s. During g ld or Ratcha-anachak Thai a y an k ) ong d in ll l d ve years later. fi Chulalon a d the ied land by the Thai central government – see ces. Siam’s agricultural out Siam’s ces. l 1851–68 grante g ffi Laos in 1893 d ( p er hand in the new ( d ectivelyAyuthaya since the ishe one rit, Latin an who were then in contro ff , n k d 1893 pp vs Militar bl g y an of young military o art of state, b acing the o ecoming a geogra ies an l p l l . b ectedbe king. to had s he his ascension Before y British. Within the roya s i, Sans p l t l s for successfu his rei Phraya River over d territory, intensify visua g onisation. In exchange for in onisation. In kut’s son, Kin son, kut’s was a disputed Indochina l l ing army. His reforms His ing army. d g ite s were esta most d l civilising’ his country, Chulalongkorn relied greatly on foreign ad- civilising’ his country, oll taxes made all men the king’s men king’s oll taxes made all men the e his father, Chu e his father, , to the British threat of colonisation. ‘ French blockade Chao Chao blockade French d co monopo which marked the end of absolute monarchy and introduced a con which marked k p l d d ines of the Mon mon the Mon ines of p ian arti e l l Li In the years after the cou In Siam was In Mon Durin vances in irrigation techni d rotoco d isers erted back to Thailand the country of the Thai three Malayan states in 1909 three Malayan Pa cient in Schoo powers that integrate powers that and ce Ita cou reign oversaw the creation of a sa reign oversaw had lingered on ine had lingered courts and revenue o stitutional monarchy. The the grou leaders of stitutional monarchy. ocratic ideology they their studies in Euro had encountered during ( Democrac 1932 a grou In selves Khana Ratsadon (Peo ( v a stan v p ture an roya er steps in rep abolished slavery and the corvéestate. He system IV) never ex cip fi avoi a sense. By 1902, the country no in the monastery, foun monastery, in the Thai). By 1913, all those living within its borders were de is cre struggled for the u consider itself an occu to French Indochina Indochina to French 1890 rst railway rst fi Ratchasima. with Nakhon Nakhon with buffalo’. connects Bangkok Siam’s Siam’s without her In 1868 King to sell his wife his wife sell to or her children or her children IV) abolished a husband’s right husband’s permission. The The permission. Mongkut (Rama Mongkut (Rama the woman ‘as if the woman she were a water a water she were was said, treated treated said, was older provision, it older provision,

704 HISTORY & POLITICS HISTORY

HISTORY & POLITICS HISTORY

705 THAI

1916 PRATHET PRATHET Thai rst ﬁ university, university, people. established. University, is The The Tai-speaking Tai-speaking Phibul Song- Chulalongkorn Chulalongkorn ‘Prathet Thai’ Thai’ ‘Prathet from ‘Siam’ ‘Siam’ to from considered an considered to unite all the unite to English); it was it was English); (or ‘Thailand’ ‘Thailand’ in (or khram changed changed khram country in 1939 in 1939 country the name of the the name of gesture intended intended gesture overt nationalistic nationalistic overt

l l - - - - y h a ur d the e in His d the ving , l , l d oug ) was tt h ecome ections b l contro ing with isso d ansion of le’s Party, le’s s longest e d ’ d p earing the p rother ll 1913 b b Britain to resign in into exi er mysterious d d : fu d d n 1935, t i d his , refused to deliver S an un arty seize from King King Vajiravudh an that angere an that ), d p U d adopt surnames. nanda Mahidol pl ea Thai-ness’. He collabo He Thai-ness’. A an ‘ l d retext the military used ourishe or in Washington an or in Washington was force requires all citizens to ﬂ p ing to gain internationa l d ama VIII abdicated in 1935 and re- abdicated in osition he held from 1938 osition he held ) p u ting to contain communist R p ynasty, going on to ynasty, b p d . assa phuumíphon adunyádèt

arties. In the 1950s,arties. In di the US b ri d m p awyer, was force awyer, l l k

ama VII d nation’ and nation’ ‘ emocracy ishing the constitution, are war on the 1909 l l rovide more democratic rights. And R d , he was shot ( o s p ular election half was held in 1937 for itary-wing of the ent much of his childhood studying ent much of his childhood ec l d b . p eaning economic eaning olitical boundaries. p d l o ok ucate p an p ronounce : a p l d at the he outlines Siam’s Siam’s outlines l p p to ist- ( l u d rime minister, a rime minister, b e rst the mi p ﬁ d -nation status. Phi ld ing of the Cha government was ho . room in 1946. In the same year room in 1946. In d l Anglo-Siamese Treaty k ress royalist sentiments, ress royalist sentiments, d le’s Assembly, the newly body. instated legislative Assembly, le’s u e the Thai Liberation Movement p b pp ( b khram, one of the leaders of the militarykhram, one faction of after the war, afterthe war, ictatorshi inten g d d d , a French-e ed in its vision of a democratic Thailand a democratic of its vision ed in before and efeate anese and allowed them to use Thailandanese and allowed them as a staging ﬁ g d p an ucing a socia ucing l aration of war, thus saving Thai thus saving aration of war, erio l d s assembly were held and the 1946 constitution sought to s assembly were held and the 1946 constitution p ’ Dictatorship Pattani. 1902 ower with Phi itary ec l le p y d ort to su p

ﬀ iving monarch l as the ninth rief ections were he enerals. King Prajathi enerals. King l l d le’s Party, became became Party, le’s eo b g Siam Siam annexes anese, the Phi p p e for its invasion of other Southeast Asian of other Southeast for its invasion si nations. By . After returning to Thai uences of l p d d q Yala, Pattani and was not uni not was arliament and banning all i Phanomyon y esty Bhumibol Adulyadej esty p ointe hew the abdicated king, of was crowned ochina. Thai former sultanate of of sultanate former j d Phibul’s regime coincided with WWII and was characterised with WWII and was regime coincided by strong Phibul’s For a For In an e In Narathiwat from the the from Narathiwat p roa d a eneral Phibul Son eneral Phibul pp b ectly itself in Southeast Asia, involved attem educe the role of the military and eigning, ated with the Ja o a true mi he o return to he longest-reigning king in Thai history, as well as the world he longest-reigning king in Thai history, he forma he Ja o 1944 and again from 1948 to 1957. o 1944 and again ired to Britain. Thailand’s Thailand’s ired to Britain. he Peo or the member of Seri Thai 1944 and was tried for war crimes 1944 and was tried for war ne t t r t Militar successor General Sarit Thanarat subjected the countr 1957 Phibul’s In f r M a t r he was only 10 years old and s he was only 10 years old t t ex leverage and reclaim historical territory France’s lost during the Thai am ing WWII. But Seni Pramoj, t r t G t of the government. Thegovernment. of the the Peo wing of of the civilian leader Part Pri nationalistic tendencies centering on nationalistic tendencies In groun genera of the seats in the Peo of the seats it all lasted until the death of King Ananda, the circumstances in his 1933 after intro a conse military , - - - - - s d t l d p- d- d- l ectu- she y su osten ll d 1941 ( ases in ectua ll woun b ll oo d s with the s with l bl ruta ents, resu y inte ass Thais of l ea inte b l d the country itary e an d d l d pl e e-c ll ictators, Thanom eo itary d l ddl er massacre. Right p Thailand during WWII. during Thailand Japanese forces enter b portions of the mi War, the US govern the US War, ents an y a monument on Th d d b mi ort further ld

itary d l d pp ing 77 ent movement grew more communist insurgents – communist insurgents with the stu d. ll d d d i ing a constitution from the ing a constitution ers an k an d cially cially k l ﬃ , 1939 ass an age of economic age of stu l k to su Thailand. k opment of US mi opment of US ashe d o l l d arme k eman d s c sequent mi sequent , near the Democracy Monument. eve d ing-c eft-wing activists, main p b l k d k a pac er that year the mi er that year o name is o emonstrations at Thammasat Univer d b eave Thai eave k ies l d refuse joine ll

d etrator of the 14 Octoetrator of the 14 d d eft-oriente ects it had on military interests. He was He was military interests. it had on ects itary support an the Sarit government to The country’s English p l ﬀ changed from Siam to l ra l er ian grou l , an p hat to mi

d p in an and was received warmly by the royal family. In by the royal family. and was received warmly owing the d d itica ) d l ll e o Pra p ang in Bang

pp ong with peasants, wor ong with peasants, d l l 1932 d ationship with su ationship Praphat Charusathien, contro who Praphat l ence. In the aftermath, stu many ence. In erceive ergroun emonstration in Bang emonstration l d p d ste d l o b owing years, the ents, a un y vio rotestors organise ll d d d arge p that re l to support the war in Vietnam. d amnoen K oo d a absolute monarchy. absolute stu d , creating fears among wor , creating fears among Bloodless coup ends ends Bloodless coup bl d l d achorn an achorn ass, organise an l l k onse, ansion in the region. In the context the Co of the In the region. in ansion ica itary Octo On 14 government. p l By 1973, an opposition group of By 1973, an In the fo In p d e c s an resse l mi forcing Thanom an were force USA in exchange for a USA home-grown communism. In 1976 Thanom 1976 returned In to Thailandhome-grown communism. from 1964 to 1973. They to 1973. from 1964 negotiate sity against the sity wing, civi anti-communist ing in ing more than 800. The event commemorate is sibly to become a monk dl p ex an economic gave ment continue a ra King Bhumi Kitti Ratcha res Thai e and the counterbalancing orts ff 1917 gurehead of Seri Thai (the resistance movement against WWII Japanese occu- Japanese WWII against movement Thai (the resistance Seri of gurehead fi Though acknowledged as a senior statesman, Pridi Phanomyong was a controversial a controversial was Phanomyong Pridi statesman, as a senior Though acknowledged gure and a major foe of Phibul and the military regimes. He was accused of being a of accused He was Phibul and the military regimes. of and a major foe gure against their against power within within power a bias for the a bias for political foes. political reincarnation reincarnation fi regicide. under suspicion of the country out of and forced his critics by communist its and recognised has been re-examined his legacy War, the Cold of the thawing Since e democratic pation of Thailand) and was Thai prime minister (1946). Thai prime minister Thailand) and was of pation in 2000. world the 20th-century of personalities great Unesco’s named one of LIBERAL COUNTERWEIGHT in the and a civilian leader lawyer a French-educated (1900–83) was Phanomyong Pridi Thailand was in reforms on democratic His work Party. and People’s revolution 1932 military involvement law by restrict to and attempts measures on constitutional based industrialisa- state-led land and labour, of nationalisation He supported Thai politics. in served He also University. Thammasat he founded In 1934, tion and labour protection. as the ruling interest ruling interest or civilian) and the branches of of the branches Siam sends troops to join the Allies in WWI. 17 constitutions, constitutions, 17 result of 18 (this of result all rewritten as a all rewritten seeks to allocate allocate to seeks government with with government (military, royalist royalist (military, Thailand has had Thailand number is debat- able) coups. Each Each coups. able)

706 HISTORY & POLITICS HISTORY HISTORY & POLITICS HISTORY 707 1959 rst tourist rst ﬁ Prem Prem Tinsu- The The lifelong head of of head lifelong be the architect be the architect the Privy Council Council the Privy of King Bhumibol King Bhumibol of and is believed to to and is believed of the 2006 coup. the 2006 of lanonda serves as lanonda serves authority created.

, l ------y y y a o ov b ow g into itar p l romi

d p d uence) . Within an ﬄ rovincial rotestors l y p p overnment 1957 g the mi the commu until 1973. d rovincial busi by ular resistance in three nights e rovinces. These l p p d p rograms. But the rograms. But o they maintained , p te p Black May’. Led b Black May’. l ‘ . On the other side ) arliament was domi h the 1980s. The p g ismant oliticians based in the coup that introduces that coup d p olitics was often bought Sarit Thanarat leads a military rule that lasts p demarcated an emerging shing ﬁ roach to governance. ort came from the southern p that resu throu . k d pp pp ution to their the Asian economic crisis un d o . e. His government shifte e. His b out transforming Thai d k resented the urban middle class b an pl p ity. Prem Prem ity. l l i lagued by foreign-debt burdens, an 1946 istri eo ro-military ort towns, these were now dominat b p d p resented a challenging rival: resented a challenging p p olitics a resenting their rising urban a ust an set a p p p b d get King King Bhumibol tion. This cou d Chatichai was overthrown p u d rubber, tin and tin and rubber, ( b iers. On the night of 20 May, King Bhumi iers. On the night of 20 May, usiness le of the agrarian northeast in new b ascends the throne; s an p ld

Adulyadej (Rama IX) l y . Thailand joins the UN. southern Thai southern it eo lence. orts so laced in fair elections by Chatichai Choonhavan, ay d economic sta economic d p o p d p d d artners, not enemies nes hone mob’, re hone mob’, a new wave of democracy a new activists wave advocated for p i , rime minister. This was met with rime minister. ureaucrats an on state- p le’s Liberation Army of Thailand of in the – based Army Liberation (PLAT) le’s of the country of the continue emonstration in Bang p an l b d olitical soldier’, General enjoyed Tinsulanonda, Prem soldier’, olitical p l d rovincia p oom years went the vi olitics: the Bangkok business community and educated community business olitics: the Bangkok p

b o p d 1945 itica l usiness e a commo mobile o ‘ b the k , p i ines exist to ectrum were the former a mass ulation centres. Formerly ulation centres. Formerly l lains and the l e and Malaysia. and

p d p p l b

ld of o oliticians and their money ence with arme itary contro l l d p es of northern an p ld fter May Black -connecte so Asian Tiger’ economy. But the business of But the business Asian Tiger’ economy. gl ‘ itica ll Mi

In 1997 In A In 1992, after reinstating elections, an unelected In military leader in l d WWII ends; Thailand from Laos, Cambodia o erio cedes seized territory owns who focuse rend in Thai called the olded. The country’s economy was olded. The economy country’s ormer Bangkok mayor, Chamlong Srimuang, 200,000 around mayor, ormer Bangkok un aunche Thai country’s new economic success country’s of the s classes siding with the militaryclasses siding with the against Chatichai, his we of vio leader of the Chat Thai Party, who created a government dominated b who created leader of the Chat Thai Party, an an on grounds of extreme corru and business interests. Its major base of su f t p nated by the Democrat Party, which re nated by the Democrat Party, ed by tourism and ex l called an end t serted himself as f ( t ness- er away from the from er away It’s Just Bus Just It’s was re 1988, Prem In nent business leaders who criticised the military’s role in the military’s leaders who criticised nent business shou ernment of the ‘ ernment p nist insurgency military through action and amnesty known as the Peo as known j overextension in the real-estate sector and a devalued currenc constitutional reforms. For most of the 1990s, the constitutional reforms. For and the ensuing civilian-military clash was dubbed and their now-dated Cold War mentality. Communists mentality. Cold War and their now-dated central

------

w er er fi ital b p ting p rom p craft. p icts of icts 1976 olitical . d tem fl p e p d. lp ucing one , a tax-free the military. voters was ) aign d l ower during p he s most stable oration to the ’ of con p italised on the d p , if strong-arm, to strengthen d p d to power uncon- to power rura ld on 19 Se d d o y intro d l b student movement by by movement student Violent suppression of . arty executives were p from 25B to 56B to 56B 25B from esigne arty, ca arty, d isation programs in ex programs isation his d owers an ass an p l l d ective p ff US$1.88 billion US$1.88 ( era ise the Thaiise the currency olitical allies won a majority le’s Alliance for Democracy le’s unge l b i i p ing c p 1973 l that forced Thaksin exile. into b pl ation that he ha k l p romised, the interim government olitical force. Theolitical force. telecommunica reforms p l government. p using his cer, Thaksin Shinawatra, through Thaksin Shinawatra, cer, egis ffi l a long-time business and b Thai students, ( ress their royalist allegiances; it was s sale of their Shin Cor for his ousting an of a democratic ’ demonstrate for p d the reinstallation , the Peo e ion to sta ion to of a began to ease and business interests began to ease p ll ll Yellow Shirts’ they because wore yello Yellow economic economic ective worsene economy as the d p ‘ i workers and farmers olice o ff d b p Thai Loving Thai’) . ca ‘ k 17 Black May activist gov and former Bangkok Black May o ( $ ve years. As k fi as ine osition, his was one of Thai history y d th care p ment, including agrarian debt relief, village ca debt relief, ment, including agrarian arity among the wor among arity l l p s ’ u 1968 ecommunications p reforms an reforms l l hea o sin was accuse p p k Thailand is a olitics for ega l p

olitician, Thaksin swiftly delivered on his cam nocrac s to te d won an outright majority in 2005, e in 2005, won an outright majority p i chea k Nations (ASEAN). Nations founding member member founding of the Association p s to the 1997 constitutiona the economic slum e. His e. His d , ut were viewe of Southeast Asian l e. k an b s governments. The an surging economy orean government for 73 billion baht orean government for 73 l

earned the nickname and Sondhi Limthongkul e for more than US e for more d ) p rime minister ), g sed the military as the dominant s an d, ershi p er- and middle-classes when Thaksin’s er- and middle-classes when Thaksin’s p d al succession. d Demonstrations against the Thaksin-aligned government were led Than In the aftermath the returne the Democrats of the crisis, In In 2006 Tha In y ecte pp arty ru elieved that Thaksin consolidating was so successfully y Chamlong Srimuang arred from l PAD mmen ea fun ro US$1. The International Monetary Fund (IMF) to impose stepped in Monetary Fund TheUS$1. International rising nationalism and won a majority in the elections Self-styled a majority rising nationalism and won of 2001. as a CEO- 2006, the military staged a bloodless cou his tenure that he had designs on the throne or at least in interru his tenure that he had designs on the throne or Demonstrations in Bang the birthday colour) to ex (the king’s Singa held general elections in December, returning the country to civilian held general elections in December, rule, but the outcome was unsatisfactory to the military and the Bangkok u The TRT Party was dissolved by court order and The TRT Party ( b b ernor i b ises for rural develo l p Thaks 2000 In and former tions billionaire months of the crisis, the Thaicrisis, the of months currency nancia chan his Thai Thai Rak (TRT or teste gain than rival of Thaksin’s). Their grou rival of Thaksin’s). e interest, most notably in his family interest, most notably in and formed a government led by Samak Sundaravej ecli 1965 the Vietnam War. Thailand hosts US had to find find had to farmers. The farmers. ern hill tribes. eradication of of eradication tion in 1969 to to tion in 1969 King Bhumibol help struggling help struggling new work so he so work new Without the job the Without Project Founda- Project military bases during started the Royal the Royal started lauded effort was was lauded effort opium cultivation opium cultivation among the north- of being absolute, being absolute, of foundation’s most most foundation’s

708 HISTORY & POLITICS HISTORY

HISTORY & POLITICS HISTORY

709 THAKSIN 1980 office. to complete a complete to movement and and movement Thaksin Thaksin was the four-year term of of term four-year first prime minis- prime first ter in Thai history Thai history in ter to undermine the government works works government a political solution.

Prem Prem Tinsulanonda's l ------g communist insugency eventually ends it with with it ends eventually lly ia l orts, tura l p itica Shirts l s sister ' d o p e to reach endence of im cu 1979 it was con bl l p nown as the in a par l restored. ing set out to k d rovinces once not olitically allied ld reinstatement p ll p . d South and gave ui ecte p le were killed and b and parliament parliament and l cials and bureau and cials homogenous Thai etter etter ffi rime minister. Red rime minister. p d b p , olicy was abandoned eo After three years of p p p an ort for Mus d military rule, elections e pp fi AFP/GETTY IMAGES © roxies. Through last-minute ce, he hosted a TV ce, he cookin ffi ing district for two months ing district for two p su rime minister owers as a. These three h om of Patani unti om of Patani l d p icy of nation- p pp d ghting for the inde l fi s the aristocrats. The Re o ict Sti of interest. fl Ya d p ing d k olitical and another favourable court ruling favourable and another rime minister. For more information, For rime minister. romise p their own counter-movement as the their own p hisit Vejjajiva was e hisit Vejjajiva the government were una p p d , for a week in November 2008 until the 2008 until week in November , for a b d e a con g b aratist insurgents have been waging a low been waging a aratist insurgents have US$1.5 billion of crackdown-related arson billion of crackdown-related US$1.5 ( p arliamentary with Thaksin majority ution of the government an ution of the government to l p ers an d olicy was resisted in the Dee d ). p isso ea ro-democracy activists Thak as well as die-hard l aratist movement d laced with central government o p . During WWII, a p p ti-ethnic society into a uni k , l orters north hail mostly from the and northeast, and o p orters organise . k the astic animosity towar astic animosity pp ing, Democrat A d pp b e ied Bangkok’s central sho ied Bangkok’s arty won a ld 696 d p p rime minister Prem rime minister Prem p ui om the area of the historic p b n 2001, Muslim se Muslim n 2001, b d tember 2008, Samak Sundaravej was unseated by the Consti by the unseated was Sundaravej Samak 2008, tember i p sin su romise and in May 2010 the military 2010 used forced to evict the romise and in May rovocative demonstration came in 2010 after Thailand’s Su afterThailand’s came in 2010 rovocative demonstration Front for Democracy Against Dictatorshi Front k p nding him guilty of abusing his of nding him guilty p eman s see d ng rise fi ed, the Yellow Shirts seized control of Thailand’s main air Shirts of Thailand’s seized control ed, the Yellow i d fi ections. Protest ections. Protest p ition hi

then- l l In 2011, general elections were held and Thaksin’s general elections 2011, were held and Thaksin’s In Tha In Se d d ost entary vote, becoming Thailand’s 27thentary Thailand’s vote, becoming ilitary cou manoeuvred a silent nite ingluck Shinawatra elected as ingluck Shinawatra rotestors, resulting in bloody clashes where 91 rotestors, resulting in bloody reme Court ordered the seizure of US$46 billion of Thaksin’s assets reme Court billion of Thaksin’s the seizure of US$46 ordered ressing rovinces of Pattani, Narathiwat an Narathiwat rovinces of Pattani, uered by the Chakri kings. Under King Chulalongkorn, the traditional uered by the Chakri Under kings. smouldering central city smouldering central city n com fter hat further weakened Thaksin’s hat further Thaksin’s weakened utional Courtutional while in o on a technicality: nclude anti-cou Red Shirts’. Su Red Shirts’. Military response to student protests, 1976 com on t Suvarnabhumi and Don Muan and Suvarnabhumi of e satis Shirts occu crats from Bang scale war against the central government in Thailand’s southernmost scale war against the central government in Thailand’s p q ruling elite were re Y Troubles in the Deep Sout Start a a a p m p a U ‘ i sin fans. There is a degree of class struggle, with some Red Shirts ex p t m show that the courtshow that foun m t transform the mu an damage was estimated Buddhist nation. This Patani. In the 1980s In ’90s, and the assimilation Patani. birth to a strong se Puea Thai Puea coa »

- - - ll d re p mar , in the 2001 lace the d p resse prime minister. an for the his an for p tycoon, Thaksin e pl d ulation. In 2004, ulation. In p y Telecommunications Telecommunications o Shinawatra is elected ll South. In 2002, the South. In p p ment p cial World Heritage Heritage World cial amnesty to the arme to the amnesty o ffi l d ce – a unit often lauded , led a by a Thai-Muslim ffi ectorate Army-run and the p eve p ucationa ere d d ff 1997 roviding a communication linkroviding a communication roach to the region, which sti to the region, roach e p d pp t the ancient Khmer temple of so o so l ort of the local y an ll pp passage of historic . sco to lis an economic an economic Asian economic crisis; the traditional stronghold of the Democrat the traditional ‘people’s constitution’. ‘people’s another a another d p k oms. He a He oms. d many of them unarmed civilians. In 2005 unarmed civilians. In of them many , region d onded harshly to demonstrations that resulted in onded harshly to demonstrations . emente p cant, the temple has long been a contentious issue issue has long been a contentious the temple cant, pl fi ue and Tak Bai incidents, which together Bai incidents, cost the lives ue and Tak olice assumed control of securityolice assumed control of though they lacked eace and stability and eace and stability re. fi q otentially settle the violence in the south but that has the violence in the south but otentially settle p p 1991-2 p im cooperation. future of cial statement olice-militaryborder security o igious free igious ffi ass. Bombings and shootings continue and the region hasass. Bombings and shootings d arliament. However, it did not take into consideration the into take it did not arliament. However, l p overishe p olicy succeeded in weakening relations between the local olicy relations between in weakening succeeded p sin regime too sin regime declared in the area. p olicy break u to p k s re fully petitioned Une p attempts to seize General Suchinda d turmoil surrounding surrounding turmoil ess y im rovincial 'Black May'protests. ll power; King Bhumibol intervenes to halt civil p s among the most economica the most s among k It was widely believed cou that the 2006 The Tha erceived moral authority and su erceived moral authority ecome a no-go zone etween the Thai government and the southern Muslims. In its In etween the Thai Muslims. government and the southern Party. The The Party. Thai general, could joint civilian- the Krue Se Mos the Krue country. Greater central control was exerted Greater central control viewed and was as a thinly country. disguised elite, Southern voters and the Democrats who had served voters and the Democrats elite, Southern as their re the government res government dissolved the long-standing ins dissolved the long-standing government b b p wa tial law sentative in rights an rights an insurgents torica of at least 180 Muslims sensitive and tenacious Muslim culture of the Dee tenacious Muslim sensitive and for maintaining not come to ran 1988 zzled with the Puea Thai electoral win and a 2011 Thai-Cambodian border com- border Thai-Cambodian win and a 2011 Thai electoral zzled with the Puea rst elected rst fi fi p 596 . p 596 Running up to the Thai general election of 2011, border tensions increased partly due partly increased tensions border 2011, election of Thai general the up to Running For For more In 2008 Cambodia succ TROUBLE IN THE TEMPLE FRONTIER TEMPLE THE TROUBLE IN Khao Phra Wihan (‘Preah Vihear’ in Cambodian; see p 432 ) as an o 432 p in Cambodian; see Vihear’ (‘Preah Wihan Khao Phra insigni and seemingly Remote Site. awarded case Justice of Court International 1969 A Thailand. and Cambodia between area a 4.6-sq-km claim to lay countries but both the temple, of Cambodia ownership the to been deployed have troops decision, the Unesco since years Four it. surrounding exchange and periodically border to competing political interests in both countries. Cambodian leader Hun Sen is viewed is viewed Hun Sen Cambodian leader countries. in both interests political competing to government Abhiset the make to using the dispute of accused ally and was Thaksin as a the exploiting of accused Thailand were in groups anti-Thaksin Meanwhile look weak. seems The struggle sentiments. pro-Thaksin discredit to wedge as a nationalistic issue have to in an o resulted meeting mittee the boxed text, text, the boxed information on information PM since 1976; trade Deep South, see see South, Deep becomes becomes the conflict in the the conflict opens with Indochina. Chatichai Chatichai Choonhavan

710 HISTORY & POLITICS HISTORY HISTORY & POLITICS POLITICS 711 2008 shut-down. Thailand. founded in founded Party (Phak (Phak Party Prachathipat) Prachathipat) The Democrat 1946 is now the 1946 is now political party in party political seize Bangkok’s longest-surviving longest-surviving royalist activists Yellow Shirt, pro- Yellow causing weeklong weeklong causing

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petitions Unesco l acce to list Phra Wihan d q the way for Tha the way d d arty vote ll . d as a World Heritage ot for the constituenc p since the new mi border tensions with with tensions border ots in 2007. Charges of ots in 2007. oya ll l d y a ll ection a ave such a l b a b y fon

p d b ll e e d l referred er the current constitution, e ages han d p d ll ica pl agers wi with the ascension of Tha ection. Anec rime ministershi p l ll . d eo ionaire, at the p winners an increase l p ll i sin messages ly i 2006 b ua resentation doesn k ress encountere arty to gain near d p d p of the government an arty. Un arty. p s they cast a d p ivi ll oil’ the ballot, or dis o d King King Bhumibol p p ulsory citizens for all eligible celebrates 60th 60th celebrates acement constitution. Theacement constitution. constitution, 1997 voters casting any everyany e forced into exile. into forced s arty vote. The ratio of seats ositions assigne ‘ p and for their Thai d p p ) pl p anti-Tha year on the throne; and prime minister k e a sitting MP e a sitting ort no that they have ower to the oms in its 1997 constitution, a y s through the vi d Thaksin government government Thaksin b overthrown in a coup p p d b d no’ vote if the voter wishes to choose no’

‘ sin winning the ites have since rescin ites have d re k l d y accom etermine in ections has stea ecte ll d l l Thai Ra arliament currently has 630 members divided into two chambers currently divided into two has 630 members ing majority, the ing majority, ecommunications y the majority y the majority ) l nt d p the e ll e ress free e le’s Constitution, called for both chambers to be fully elect chambers to be fully called for both Constitution, le’s b ica l d debate about how to structure about how debate Thailand e to d p p South. p g es. That era came to an en d ots containe ove l olitical drama that has unfolded since the 2006 cou since the 2006 has unfolded drama that olitical l 2004 arties an e their roun ll - p an ar vote. This p l a k ll ho d u b efacing it. During the 2005 genera p p cs rime minister is the hea a d allots include a e rnm the itary an o p oo l in Thailand and b changes with each re changes with ecte l e bl p uying ty of l -standin

but members of the clergy are not allowed to vote. Voter turn but members of the clergy are not allowed to vote. Voter reignites in Deep eting d romise of a vote. In some cases, vi romise of a vote. In iti ative vote rime minister must shing industries; shing ) g member of b v l d ing a contro ﬁ y p ers ma ( p p igi his we Muslim insurgency Muslim y e b l d l The in Thailand is com Voting When Thai voters go to the The ld d

P ecte he mi roa damages tourism and d l Indian Ocean tsunami House of Representatives and the Senate) with a mix of seats being popu with a mix of seats being and the Senate) of Representatives House kills over 5000 people egis ea ar the an Shinawatra, a te Shinawatra, e often arguing that full democratic re which are use vote- above’. It is also common to above’. ho and, ultimately, who gets Assembly The greater control. National and, ultimately, a lon Southeast Asian governments are not ty b Medi l out for nationa nium with 78% of registere l M sentation outcomes for the dubbed the Peo e T ment of Thailand ( l Go Much Pol the of 18 on it or ine dia outlets, but Thailand often this trend throughout the 1990s, bucked even ensuring 21st century. With Tha 21st century. com DREAMSTIME ©

- - - - - a ic ‘p The d y out l atter- fl a nega y against d itary l l oste issues of osted transla l p security, often security, p l owers laws that owers laws awsuits against awsuits l p 15 years. Often the ecause of the coun- d olitical enemies will rinted embarrassing critica . b p l p resenting an un even average citizens. even average user who p d k since 2006, main efamation radio stations based in the ) oo d d to the monarchy, main to the monarchy, s who b . Severa d p d ists an ress from intimidation, lawsuits l the like c but signmakers p ffi . anne etween an three itany of itany b l of the mon ence against the dignity b ff ro-Thaksin owers to ensure nationa a (p p d with regar Red-shirt protesters at Democracy Monument, Bangkok e p » l

p. ﬁ ing term of p l . against a Thai Face are vulnerable to vandalism or theft, but the or theft, to vandalism vulnerable are ation not seen since the 1970sation not seen since the era of mi so against journa d l ress, were added to the emergency d e l ce was to expose an illegal Bangkok casino run by run by casino Bangkok an illegal expose to was ce p

ffi s. Swee fi f-censorshi 2011 l k minister. ut a osters osters b ress freedoms in the new but this was a constitution, een intimi p ublications and media grou ublications and media b s, l l attac p ect after the cou èse majesté charges has increase l l ff have been banned since 2006. Internet censorship is also on been banned since 2006. Internet have general election; ega rst female prime t l fi s. Thegovernment

riva ist p d l o in acts rst becomes Thailand's Yingluck Shinawatra Shinawatra Yingluck ect for the crown, but also out of fear that ﬁ Puea Thai party wins e of the monarchy are often l m hysica p ing of romise’ that did little to rescue the that did little romise’ o candidate p l ia exercises se p an fter the 2006 ousting of Thaksin, the media managed to retain its

p n itica d p Publications that the government views that the government as Publications Fi A intimidation in Thailand Press is made easier l d co o er le lèse majesté charges E invoked against the invoked Charges have of res ing ro the rise and so-called Red Shirt p tive comment about the king and an overseas Thai who tions of a banned book about the king on his blog. p archy – which carries a jai shi tatorshi ﬁ me guarantees of revelations about the Thaksin regime northeast have been shut down by the government northeast have an try’s lèse majesté laws – causing o laws lèse majesté try’s went into e individuals, ess. All ess. 2010 91 deaths.91 in busin cial uniform but recent trends include ad-like approaches with catchy slogans and slogans with catchy approaches include ad-like trends but recent cial uniform ﬃ activists occupy Always a trendsetter, Chuvit Kamolvisit, former brothel owner turned political political turned owner brothel former Chuvit Kamolvisit, a trendsetter, Always Residents complain about the signs’ obstruction of tra of obstruction the signs’ about complain Residents central Bangkok for whistle-blower, won over voters with his 2011 ‘Angry Man’ campaign ads, featuring him featuring ads, campaign Man’ ‘Angry 2011 with his voters over won whistle-blower, with the government. and anger frustration expressing and glaring poses in grimacing his one of (Incidentally, evocative imagery. evocative Preceding an election, Thai candidates paper the roadways and electricity poles with poles electricity and the roadways paper Thai candidates an election, Preceding in seriously posing the candidate show posters Traditional and signs. billboards political an o SIGNS OF ELECTION OF SIGNS high-ranking police.) high-ranking boost patch. sunshade or roof as a makeshift desired particularly are ones plastic crackdown results in two months; military Red Shirt, pro-Thaksin

712 HISTORY & POLITICS POLITICS 713

Festivals There is no better way to tap into Thailand’s traditional folkways than to attend a festival, be it a provincial parade or a national shindig. In addition, festivals give Thais an excuse to do their two favourite pastimes: socialise and eat (which are never mutually exclusive).

Loi Krathong festival (p358 ), Chiang Mai FELIX HUG/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © FELIX HUG/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © RICHARD VAN KESTEREN/ALAMY © cation parade. parade. cation and lit owers fi fl god- thank the river erings ff festivals are vibrant are vibrant festivals

erings became huge wax sculptures sculptures wax huge became erings

Hua Hin Jazz Festival ﬀ Long-tail boat race during Ork Phansaa, Sakon Long-tail boat race during Ork Phansaa, Sakon

4. 3.

To honour the king’s jazz interest, this jazz interest, honour the king’s To domestic assembles festival two-day Inherited from Chinese immigrants, this immigrants, Chinese from Inherited lovingly is meat from holiday nine-day In ancient times, long-tail boats, powered powered boats, long-tail In ancient times, during end- race would 50 men, up to by

During Khao Phansaa (Buddhist Lent), Lent), (Buddhist Khao Phansaa During and essential donate merit-makers

This elegant festival alights the night with the night alights festival This elegant with adorned small boats

Self-mortification during the Vegetarian Festival, Self-mortification during the Vegetarian Festival, Launching lanterns for Loi Krathong, Chiang Mai Launching lanterns for Loi Krathong, Chiang Mai that are paraded through the town (p436). the town through paraded that are and international ensembles to jam on the to ensembles and international blanket out a beach lay Music-lovers beach. lap in time (p517). as the waves and listen Nakhon practised in Bangkok and other Thai cities Thai cities and other in Bangkok practised stalls Food populations. Chinese with historic turn the usual meaty banners with yellow the In Phuket, meal. a soy-based into stir-fry (p618) has a self-morti festival candles set adrift in waterways across the across adrift in waterways set candles The o country. Sukhothai and transport. irrigation for dess this tradition. for (p358) is famous ceremonial items (such as candles) to the to as candles) (such items ceremonial the simple In Ubon Ratchathani, temples. o candle 1. 2. Clockwise from top left

Ubon Ratchathani 5 Candle Parade Festival,

4 Hua Hin Jazz Festival

3 Long-Tail Boat Races Long-Tail

2 Vegetarian Festival

1 twists on the old ways. twists on Loi Krathong features, as are some modern as are some modern features, Traditional dance and music are dance and music Traditional culture take to the streets. culture take Thailand’s Thailand’s and religion in which affairs Top Top Festivals Phuket of-rainy season celebrations ( Ork Phansaa). A A Phansaa). Ork ( celebrations season of-rainy Swan is the International that era of survivor that pits Ayuthaya, held in (p164), Race Boat teams. and domestic international 714 714 PAUL KENNEDY/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © ANDREW WATSON/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 715 715 716

S o n g k r a n RICHARD I’ANSON/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Water mayhem ushers in the traditional Thai New Year in mid-April. It is a time of cleansing, renewal and loading up pick-up trucks with beds armed with super soakers to douse other water warriors. Thailand’s most famous festival didn’t start out as a water war. Once upon a time it was a quiet festival of house cleaning, resolutions and temple festivities. Traditionally the temple’s primary Buddha was ceremoniously bathed, often by being paraded about as the faithful dutifully splashed water on it. In fact water ‘splashing’ (not ‘shooting’) is a common component of New Year’s festivals throughout Southeast Asia and even parts of China. Afterwards water might be sprinkled on the hands of elderly family members or playfully splashed on friends as a way of wishing them luck. The cleansing powers of water also offers refreshment during the hottest time of the year. It isn’t hard to imagine how the splashing water custom would eventually evolve into a throwing, launching and soaking wet party. Luck is said to be measured by how doused (not soused or drunk) you are and so those roving water- hurling bands are just wishing you a whole lot of luck in the year to come.

TOP SONGKRAN SPOTS » Bangkok (p 104 ) Head to Th Khao San for serious water battles. » Chiang Mai (p 258 ) Line up along the moat to splash and be splashed. » Ayuthaya (p 165 ) and Sukhothai Tame and traditional versions for Songkran purists.

Clockwise from top left 1. Having fun, Bangkok 2. Hill-tribe girls at a Songkran ceremony, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, Chiang Mai 3. Incense and candle offerings during Songkran celebrations at Sanam Luang, Bangkok 717 KYLIE MCLAUGHLIN/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © RICHARD I’ANSON/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 718 TOM COCKREM/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © AWPHOTO/ALAMY © CREDIT/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 719

ANDREW WATSON/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Buddhist Lent July to October, one of the holiest periods of the Buddhist calendar, coincides with the rainy season. It is a period of reflection, meditation and religious observances. The start of Khao Phansaa (Buddhist Lent) is observed on the first day of the waning moon in the eighth lunar month. This is the traditional time for young men to enter the monkhood and earn merit for their family and maturity for themselves. Thai men who have not yet become monks are often viewed as ‘unripe’. Buddhist Lent is also known as the rains retreat, when monks withdraw into the monastery. The practice dates to the historical Buddha when monks were itinerant preachers and foul weather made travel difficult. The start of the rains also initiated the planting season and the potential for trampling on young seedlings was a concern. Many merit-making activities define this period for the laity. Buddhist faithful present the monks with once-useful offerings of candles and lamp oil, which have now become symbols of spiritual illumination. The end of Buddhist lent (three lunar months later) is known as Ork Phansaa. The temples observe the gà·tĭn ceremony, RICHARD VAN KESTEREN/ALAMY © in which new robes are given to the monks by merit-makers. Folk practices herald the end of the rains with long-tail-boat races.

TOP BUDDHIST LENT FESTIVALS » Ubon Ratchathani’s Candle Parade Festival (p 436 ) Elaborate wax candles become religious works of art. » Nong Khai’s Naga Fireballs (p 465 ) Mysterious gaseous balls rise out of the Mekong River. » Nakhon Phanom’s Illuminated Boat Festival (p 483 ) Electrified boats turn the Mekong River into a mini-disco.

Clockwise from top left & following page 1. Loi Krathong offerings 2. Moo·ay tai dancer at Ork Phansaa parade, Sakon Nakhon 3. The Candle Festival during Khao Phansaa, Ubon Ratchathani 4. Long-tail- boat races, Ork Phansaa festivities, Sakon Nakhon 5. Loi Krathong, Chiang Mai 6. Vegetarian Festival, Phuket 720 FELIX HUG/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © PAUL KENNEDY/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © 721

The People & Culture Thailand’s cohesive national identity provides a unifying patina for ethnic and regional diff erences that evolved through historical migrations and geographic kinships with ethnically diverse neighbours. Thailand Demo- Ethnic Makeup graphics Some 75% of the citizens of Thailand are ethnic Thais, providing a su- » Population: 66.7 perfi cial view of sameness. But subtle regional diff erences do exist. In million the central plains (Chao Phraya delta), Siamese Thais united the country » Fertility rate: 1.6 through its historic kingdoms and promulgated its culture and language. » Percentage of Today the central Thai dialect is the national standard and Bangkok ex- people over 65: ports unifi ed culture through popular media and standardised education. 9.2% The northeast (Isan) has always stood apart from the rest of the coun- » Urbanisation try, sharing closer ethnic and cultural ties with Laos and the Thai Lao rate: 34% people. The Isan dialect diff ers from central Thai, folk beliefs vary and » Life expectancy: even the local ingredients in sôm·đamm (spicy papaya salad) mark a cultur- 73 years al shift: sôm·đamm Lao contains fi eld crabs, while standard sôm·đamm contains peanuts. In the northeastern provinces that border Cambodia, there is a distinct Khmer infl uence as many families migrated across the border during historical tumult. A minority tribe, known as Suay lives near Surin and Khorat (Nakhon Ratchasima) and are traditional elephant mahouts; with the expansion of the elephant-tourism business many Suay people have relocated across the country for job opportunities. Thai Pak Tai people defi ne the characteristics of the south. The dialect is a little faster than standard Thai, the curries are a lot spicier, and there

THE INVISIBLE BURMESE

Due to the ongoing dysfunction of the Myanmar state, there is an increasing exodus of Burmese to Thailand. Approximately 150,000 people have entered the kingdom as political and ethnic refugees but the vast majority are economic migrants (estimated at two to three million but less than half are documented). They ﬁ ll the low-level jobs – ﬁ sh-processing, construction, domestic and factory work – that used to employ un- skilled northeastern Thai labourers. In part, many Thais believe that the country needs this imported workforce as the population is ageing faster than it is reproducing. However, the emerging immigration ‘situation’ has not been dealt with as swiftly by the government as the private sector. Because many of the Burmese immigrants are residing and working in the country illegally, they are subjected to exploitative relation- ships with employers that many activists describe as modern-day slavery. The Burmese can’t return home due to persecution by the military regime and they can’t turn to the Thai authorities in cases of workplace abuse because they would face deportation.

. - - - - b- d- er lso b s to aces a k ing a e was ation r, e cen pl e such l a, Teo l i pl u dd a pl ate 19th ominant l num p l kk y to mi l , most of a d eo l o ) eo d p with Thais aughters to Vegetarian p re p l ow ation. Bang e, migration d d many many l p d so many su so many d ture than u ch l im l ( 4.6% l p ing ( stantia o k b cu p l their ea ies an d ation of immigrants l p l of the Tai of the Tai u arts of southern China d p uce p , Moken , Moken -generation Ha cates that restrict that restrict cates ) ing. The mercanti o ﬁ d so a su d an l k p ). through tra l sies’), Htin, Mabri, Khamusies’), Htin, Mabri, connections an and public schooling ord d l ﬀ p e with k Sakai 14% of the 14% South. The remaining minor d ( ortunities in the ear arge who settled in Nan and Chiang in Nan who settled from Yunnan in the from Yunnan p p l the historic Mus in ( s such as the annua l home ies have intermarrie ies have d l d l l - or thir pp e u d sea gy ‘ k there is a ing roya een e unite d p b b iefs into the regiona o itiona

l l an y Thai-Chinese fami Chinese customs into the e d l l aysia an aysia ld b b l

thy Chinese intro s to the current ong eve l l d d an ethnic cousin to the Thais in who settled lk ercentages of non-Thai-s ( areas have a areas have wou l p itiona d d and the Tai Lü and the Tai y wea er ) ities. Many fami ities. Many im fo have have an l ll ll l l d rovinces of the Dee ims who emigrate l le of the sea, or p rate Chinese festiva an p b l y coasta e b l e sma eo roximity to Ma roximity d p p ine that exten u ; l e the Yunnan region of China. There are a e the Yunnan Thai dl h commona b e in the d e hic l l d oo p s inc court as consorts, bl l to ture. Historica the near e of Chinese ancestry – secon ao p l tura d l. d l pl s, including the Shan ch rovince as well as the Vietnam highlands p ury. p t northern Myanmar. The tra northern Myanmar. cu interwoven have tra an t l tiva ture, northern Thai ieve The second-largest ethnic minority are the Malays The second-largest ethnic are the Malays minority If you were to redraw Thailand’s borders according to ethnicity and Thailand’s If you were to redraw Peo China an d d d k l l s e e o p an Rai Fe of Hui-Chinese Mus an whom resi the geogra Chinese the roya tres of most Thai towns are run grou ity chew, Hainanese or Cantonese – ma Hainanese chew, k northern Thai In 20th century. b grou is more mixing of Mus an from China who came for economic o as the Vietnamese, Khmer, Mon, Semang Mon, as the Vietnamese, Khmer, cu the highlands of Burma s cen in the country ce Thai cu cation cards, which enable them to access national programs (in theory, theory, (in national programs access to which enable them cards, cation ﬁ Furthermore, the Thai government has pursued a 30-year policy of hill-tribe reloca- of policy a 30-year has pursued Thai government the Furthermore, the of regions the mountainous into tourism of the expansion decade, In the past volunteers. efforts. Theefforts. with hill-tribe with hill-tribe health care). Other hill-tribe families have received residency certi residency received have families Other hill-tribe care). health tion, often moving villages from fertile agricultural land to infertile land, in turn removing in turn removing land, infertile land to agricultural fertile from villages moving often tion, a intact to were customs in which tribal system a viable subsistence from the tribes have ways which tribal and in compete adequately can’t in which they system market been fractured. City hill-tribe villages. of the independence to factor complicating a north presents be to nominal sums only fairly for hill-tribe farmers will buy land from speculators can ownership of if the documentation costs much higher for resorts, usually to resold, and has the land rights own doesn’t the hill-tribe farmer cases (In many be procured. and farmer The displaced outsiders.) by when approached power little bargaining very and tribal their rural to connection their losing the city, to might then migrate his family society. in the lowland succeed to resources with few lifestyle travel outside of an assigned district, in turn limiting access to job opportunities associ- job opportunities to limiting access in turn district, an assigned of outside travel with a mobile modern society. ated though, extra ‘fees’ might prevent families from being able to a to being able from families might prevent ‘fees’ extra though, Hill tribes tend to have among the lowest standards of living in Thailand. Although it Although Thailand. in living of standards the lowest among have to tend Hill tribes their situation lifestyles, traditional with life of quality this correlate to be tempting could they latter, the Without Thai citizenship. having not by cases, in most is compounded, access or wage a minimum earn their children, educate land, own the right to have don’t been issued have hill-tribe groups of members some decades In the last care. health Thai identi A MODERN PERSPECTIVE ON THE HILL TRIBES and advocacy and advocacy Many NGOs in NGOs Many cms/) and As- cms/) and provide educa- provide Chiang Mai and communities to to communities foundation.org/ Chiang Rai work work Chiang Rai tion, health care care health tion, Education (www. Education two long-running long-running two akhathai.org) are are akhathai.org) (http://themirror NGOs that accept that accept NGOs Mirror Foundation Foundation Mirror sociation for Akha for sociation

722 THE PEOPLE & CULTURE ETHNIC MAKEUP THE PEOPLE & CULTURE ETHNIC MAKEUP 723 different hill different and many of of and many Hill tribes are are Hill tribes disappearing. in Chiang Mai The Tribal Re- recognises 10 10 recognises grating into the into grating tribes but there but there tribes search Institute Institute search the old ways are are the old ways may be up to 20. 20. be up to may Thai mainstream Thai mainstream increasingly inte- increasingly

- - - a d d er, eo s b are p d d laced with nown p d ; some k tem - an . l p ll hip le are also other non other p -Se d roofe age stan d et, Myanmar, fourth-world’ eo ‘ d ll b mountain p oorest of Thai- (

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ts an ŏ ha vi l d es 1000m to 1400m eans an eans k tures, without regar p p l continue to cross na continue to o w k A d l l o igne l s en sti h c p an d -August to mi ha houses are constructe d k d . s on ancestor wors come from Ti come from itiona i ions of northernions of Thai g d g er of Euro er of y other cu as s b b er ph ha are among the rovinces pp short woo ges or stee num e p p d

Ak . in, havin l ll ------p g ression ace from mi by oo en e

an em irit age b d ge , Laos, Myanmar, Yunnan , Laos, Myanmar, h the pl d h p l pp ast 200 years or so. Theyast 200 years are ll y ato t d y ties d i l p r. ll T revent eans, harvest time. A es am ic ori o sexua s, feath an p b x vari d k t b l d an ﬃ d d s k es. A sma es. e woo o ea ersona sm w a woman, ong neither to the main a ong neither b othing con d i l k eeing o eeing b l p d ﬂ d. e Thai m on fami ance tri b c n ecause of government intervention. The we i oo, usua ver ornaments l d s: l oo ief that human d ll a b b struts joine l e from i rst meetingsrst to

l n ong mountain ri ﬁ ) e l s d an anting an d st o nh . irits from enter b i ress of am e 0,000 o ill tribes’, or in Thai vernacular, or in Thai vernacular, ill tribes’, r pl horrent to the s p hare b 7 an en gateway consist en gateway ing si itiona on h ry rice, corn,

s h

l ati b t l b ‘ dd : e in Bang iefs d e gateway to e gateway d p d e l d ha shamans a ers, often

d e h e ing next vi to each b k d stem: loc b I-kaw y: d ang bl

y recite their an Ti ( ent s l ing nations. Rather, they have crosse they have Rather, ing nations. d or l

. A ll earing exaggerate d s l p ation nt nt b ity is a ity s are C s are caught between the 6ths are caught between and 21st centuries, while others are d

l b l e woo f e in that they rovinces, a ha are focuse o l grass. At the entrance of every tra s to t p p l ogies u p k ld. k . Each hill tribe has its own language, customs, has its own language, . Each hill tribe mode of dress and wi a variety of hi evo pl pl l l ) ha Swing Ceremony ta ha Swing Ceremony ip Language and culture the borders of their world. Some constitute Their tra A Most are of seminoma Most inte d d ese iritua r recent nati l rigin: or ultural characteristics: ultural sians resi r opu hina and Laos during the conom etermine a eve eo le etween rice ften called p hic iona o gures of a man an gures of each sexua sim gateway are the cru gateway ﬁ an str a sists of a hea ers an nea d organs, in the w ing. Stan ing of two vertica ing of two ous charms ma b of woo t Ak E Belie C Akha Akha P O P p d t f in altitude. They’rebut are often regarded as skilled farmers dis p C Hill Tri re in the mountainous minorities Ethnic o an A land’s ethnic minorities and reside mainly in Chiang Mai and Chiang ethnic minorities and reside mainly in Chiang Mai land’s Rai grou gradually being assimilated into modern life. Many tribes into modern life. Many gradually being assimilated grou moving into lowland areas as montane lands become deforested moving into lowland areas from ara ma s

, - s p p p i y ed p th- p t on o eaks l nan- p ﬁ ui s – the b e grou olygamy p b ) or indi- p g . Kinshi ) and silver ) in the le wear sim- g s Pwo Karen -tri , p ulation. They ed front and ll and embroi- rovinces. They p , p eo m p rotation rather o s second-largest ’ p p p roximity to main- roximity have made them have p osts, with the roofs . ending on the grou y Karen though unmarried Karen and Kayah ) ( p p ) uite low. There are uite low. . q Vietna argest hi un. , woven V-neck tu- woven V-neck l rons dra b atrilineal and y p p amous Black White maller enclave ing ( ( s. Karen homes are g ractise cro s Karen successful of the hill-tribe lateaus above 1000m. Kin- lateaus above p Laos ) is p , p y ermitted. p p Hmong tribes p Thickl ith ono air in a sually live on mountain sually live on ered a le black jackets and indigo or omen wear white lack baggy trousers with stri orders (White Hmon their women wear ack. Most r o skirts (Blue Hmon round the waist r northern Thai hi ics of various colours are ty umbers and a-O kaw kaw nd s ewellery. Sashes may be worn be Sashes may ewellery. ally worn iall tream societ woo end to live in lowland valle han swidden agriculture. Their he most integrated and Red our distinct Karen grou s matrilineal and marriage is b b g j a d b h w e u o s i p erries low stilts or ( n c w i m t a t n s t c s f S P grou b Thailand , ) Hmong are Thailand Hmong are ) e e Karen are the Myanmar h , es, straw ecially numerous in Chiang Mai Province in Chiangecially numerous Mai g p T Th : a bb hailand sm T south China south : s s: 000 nimi , n n 000 a , hina and are es o o 1 animism, Buddhism, Christianity, de animism, Buddhism, Christianity, : p C 5 420 1 ati ati Mong or Maew or Mong anmar rice, vegetables, livestock rice, corn, ca ( uth Yang or Kariang Yang oc stem: loc stem ( y: y: y My so y

s ation: ation: nt nt nt l nt s l l f f in: u g p ese ese rigin: ultural characteristics: ultural r opu o conom conom Karen P O P E Belie C in Thailand and number about 47% of the total tribal E Belie characteristics Cultural Hmong Hmong P Ori Pr hill-tribe grou

724 THE PEOPLE & CULTURE ETHNIC MAKEUP THE PEOPLE & CULTURE ETHNIC MAKEUP 725

d n erive d

s i , ossessio eu n p s a · i oo st rovinces: Chiang irit i r p p m r h e, b and s p

, ------f e g ) w o ht b ue Yunnan g sm; some groups are C sm; some groups

are q , rov i rass, and s s p t s g e Lisu villages are usually in the mountains at m . s s i i y trou : er The Thai term for this tri Yello live at u most of s , s ( ve main o o ﬁ n gg u ans with n s o o c an b hailand robably the i p livestock haeng Phet, ang. Patrilin , p T c the most nu st south China, south Thailand,Myanma 0 in Thailand cor p ( : : i p , 0 p ss with e s s ) . 00 ver tr p h egged in at the n n , , Mae Hong Son, Hong , Mae t an-tribal jurisdic 00 reen ba o ackets nar with i animism with ancestor worshi corn p , o o )

j , : g p ically live in mixed s ower centred with lack tur p p ryrice 55 103 men ati ati b es and are an ethni : White Lahu , y d rice et et g stand on short wooden Lahutend t

nal dre : : ants b b . Homes are built on . Homes y e stem ) o loc loc y y p Musoe ang Ra y Lisaw ( Ti Ti hi ( s system: ation nt nt nt nt l f f s. in: t. Th u ulation: ured tunic , C s g i p p o Traditi The women wear long multi ese ese out 1000m altitude and can out 1000m altitude l iciest of all the hill-tribe cuisines. erous Lahu grou re ri rigin: ultural characteristics ultural elie elie ultural characteristics: ultural r r o o conom conom ahu and Lahu H Sheleh. lack-and-red osts. Lahu food is amboo and thatched grass uilt of wood, bamboo and uilt of wood, bamboo and reen or blue- nkle mong hill-tribe grou n elevationoccur of about 1000m and in eight Thai nd usuall o p rom a Burmese word meaning ‘hunter’, a reference to their skill in the reference to their skill a word meaning ‘hunter’, rom a Burmese Phayao, Tak, Kam Tak, Phayao, found in remote areas of Chianfound in remote sometimes the ground and consist mostly of Black Lahu either a shaman or a village headman s a c b eal clans have eal clans have the Lisu uni tion, which makes a a O P E B C sers worn b Lisu P b row skirts by women; bri worn g b a p cally diverse grou m L Mai, Chiang Rai and Tak Chiang Rai and Tak Mai, inces. They ty ab tassels. Men wear baggytassels. Men green or blue C f fo P O P E B Lahu Lahu which have which have ethnic villa Sukhothai and Lam Ma subsets: Red Lahu

l - - - e g k b p d d d- lly he pl inea y (not . m l eo n t and k p s , Lam- ùk ortance i he nows his p er es a ·n ants. hism an s k ect for the k w p rings at be u sà p a dd

o p Ma r e g fun’. It is often It fun’. âi ‘ ans. Men wear ans. Men r oing. Even wor oing. Even erson m ers in action an b an a at crafts such as d Phayao and Chi Phayao p k , on res d hi in the im p e ves or other d l ll Chinese traditions n W i orated with the CIA atches and red furlike y k n C b p i ressing confrontationa ica rovinces and a fewrovinces and com- lack tur use Chinese characters r y s p b y l otherwise it automatica e pp es h i men wear tr g t which means atrilineal and marriage isatrilineal and marriage , ùk, i su p d Am y instructe ·n

Wo ùk l ien refugees were resettled inien refugees were resettled ien colla un olygamous. Houses are built at are built olygamous. Houses ang and Sukhothai. Migration oo thatch. lack jackets with intricately em- roidered lue or lack tunics and black gainst Pathet Lao forces; 50,000 gainst Pathet nd the ng Rai ollars, along with large dark- he US. The Mien are heavil The he US. Mien Kinshi o write their language. uenced b s nto Thailand durin increased sà ·n a M t ﬂ a t i p b b b c b b a m p i the M ground level, or bam- out of wood ishing harmony oftenishing harmony ta arrass themse sà b t of saving face, ie avoiding confron face, ie avoiding t of saving bl ers an p ien are hi ride in making others feel at ease ld p ising. Watch these wor ising. Watch M l ue on inning of anything worthinning of anything r ement of , south China, Laos, Myanmar, Vietna China,, south Laos, Myanmar, l l he p d ren are strict er T : an d ecting e ld l ersonal p to do so). The ideal face-saver doesn’t bring up to do so). The ideal face-saver p k , so as to avoid loneliness and ensure an element , so as to avoid ùk p ose of socia situations, esta a Thai d l have an e have ·n monarchy. Within that system each monarchy. ace high va s: s cultural value system is hinged u ’ ld d angers of a construction site: Thais often mix their jo nimism with ancestor worship, Taoism, Bu ancestor worship, Taoism, nimism with sà 00 pl n Thai chi d a thy irting with each other, trading insults or cracking jokes. trading irting with each other, o l d eavouring not to em eavouring ﬂ Chin trongly in the conce 5,5 l d ) s ryrice, corn 3 ati d Face

en : ty , Thais igion an d l i loc g l ace an Yao as a necessary un conformity, res conformity, ying shou ( centra d elieve p d ùk pl an system: e ation: t when it’s t when it’s nt nt b i l f riving, the y, re d p l st d . The back-breaking work of rice farming, the tedium of long-distance s with a hea ·n layfulness. Nothing condemns an activitythan more Nothing layfulness. stu i ) k r p ese d à rigin: r opu h conomy us ecomes drudgery. This doesn’t mean Thais don’t want to work, but they ecomes drudgery. ou’ll see them (exce or her an of fami tation an fun b tas y Savin Thais views. In most socia views. In ing role and Thais take S genera In b labour best as a grou The Thai Characte of Thailand Much E Belie C characteristics Cultural in Nan with a concentration 1000m and 1200m tween Mien Mien P O P regar embroidery silversmithing. and They s near mountain settle of grou equality. are known for for known are ence to gender gender to ence The Lahu people their strict adher- their strict

726 THE PEOPLE & CULTURE THE THAI CHARACTER THE PEOPLE & CULTURE THE THAI CHARACTER 727 foot. Thais are unkempt. of daily life. of wealthy for- wealthy lent of giving lent of someone the someone bottom of the of bottom eigners are so so are eigners desire to enjoy enjoy to desire part from their from part that seemingly that seemingly smile comes in smile comes ing twice a day, a day, ing twice middle finger is middle finger lighten the load the load lighten themselves and and themselves The Thai equiva- The famous Thai personal appear- personal ance, often bath- often ance, and are confused confused and are to show them the show to fastidious in their in their fastidious

. . - - - - e y y o d is le d hy óy in p pô yài p

It . . . eting eo d s w y one ves as i p p l e ôo n ôo p . óy s icit gig ll p p as ru l hi (younger d ht in your g g ôo n T most ever . l p egree share gg d themse deli nórng owerhouse d g p How old are you?’ How nórng ‘ cials occu towards the elder. towards the elder. . ffi ) i osition is ca ned by age, wealth, fi ing,might e a p . j ll ff . ed version of this elder er convictionsrm o or fi fi uestion or criticise those osition is called li ld q p p reng reng can ask for favours involv- can ask for favours ointed o often regar g and who’s y ing is to some d e ress ress rst names, often bestowed by the family pa- the family by bestowed often names, rst k pp ersonal hierarchy in Thailand fi etween those with com p uaintances is p ing or fa er causes a loss of face for those er causes a loss pêe b q ertise. and harmon Agreement p y hierarchy governs a pp ran p er an the Thai lies in the set twist of osed to l aughing it o l , ll l (elder sibling) and pôo nóy members are not encouraged to rm their rank by granting requests e ff dd ffi y pp ected to do their bosses’ bidding. a b ortantsocial graces pêe l licated p ecia

osition. The e p l p p rea p i s socia ce, the home or the government. In the In ce, the home or the government.

ﬃ l d n yài o in which i y the socia any instance where voices are raise where voices instance any itica ôo p l b d P

o ht think a heated discussionht think OK, such Thais avoid cials etc. The junior d p g ar ﬃ le, a stark contrast to the democratic ideal of being g gat oration, es le. The com p i b are obligated to care for or ‘sponsor’ the ne uickly establish who’s or p ﬁ a l re ency towar e it in the o i q eo in the form of e ll d ationshi d b eo p p l ing you save face ing you save d yài p ublic o s in traditional Thai society – and those in the modern

uestions Thais ask new ac l lp p p q arrassments, such as tri arrassments, and describes anyone who is subservient who and describes anyone to the ôo ) b ersona ics in conversation, doesn’t exin conversation, ics p p p rst are supposed to show obedience and respect are supposed to show obedience (together these

istic re ﬁ ut he l y ationshi d rotoco l b er status óy erson p ossible; to refuse would be to risk a loss of face and status ossible; to refuse would be to risk a loss of face , revents co . All Thais refer to each other using familial names. Even . All Thais using familial names. Even refer to each other ts are covered by the single Thaits are covered by the single term ) lace, this means younger sta lace, this means younger ld p p p p p otentially volatile. Losingotentially volatile. your tem p hile Westerners mi hile Westerners p ôo n n return ect within family units, business organisations, of Thai behaviour (literally the ‘big describe parents, bosses, and is used to person’) aterna At birth Thai babies are given auspicious given are Thai babies birth At THE NICKNAME GAME triarch or matriarch. These poetic names are then relegated to bureaucratic forms and forms bureaucratic to then relegated are names poetic These or matriarch. triarch nickname. a one-syllable by else everyone to while the child is introduced name cards, (Moo, appearance the child’s by be inspired and can usually playful are Thai nicknames for ‘cartoon’ for short (Toon, pastime or a favourite is chubby) if he/she ‘pig’, meaning ‘small’). which means of or Noi (both be named Lek Girls will typically TV-watchers). avid Golf names: on their children’s as imprinting their interests far so go even parents Some (as in the sport) and Benz (as in the car). Most foreign visitors will interact with a sim Most I The P Minor em Minor W i eak during meetings and are ex though this ten p p l resent and Thais who have been crossed may react been crossed may in extremeresent and Thais ways have who les from a crowd of Thais. In this case they this case aren’t takin of Thais.les from a crowd In re considered to be the most im to be re considered nd onfrontations an onfrontations p little little ng money or job access. unior re the voice of the unrelated by blood Those are not su with junior status with e Thai by social rank de milieu as well – are governed status an mutual obligations linking the elder to the junior mutual obligations linking as j sibling one of the what anaemic collections rather than one consolidated a i when by many societiesby many around the world conce yài village heads, ( A of the highest rungs on the socia s Status & Obl All relationshi p g a c a negative to negative an ex doesn’tions, and claim to have schools and the government. Elected or a often misha status. This has several is why Bangkok modern-art museums with some caretakers of the work

l l ------k d d d l e w w k eft g ass l l with e c d t their er- an l in the return ren e t for the aralleled ig cities. d d ll p regiona ages an pp ld p

ove shop e the city ddl b . ﬁ d ll b d s tourism cit women no if the water a portion of d vi d d former prime d d ife is set to the ife. In the coo ife. In catapu asses ll l e foun k l l music and fash d b ent chi p an uce an l e-watching as fe d o d cities an l an . p to the nearest par et an et d ics c b ourhoo k d b ts an other fruit trees. The . Here . Here b round, income and income and round, b d pro so than epen ustry or the d e most of Asia, is grey- l l g e the ascent of the wor the ascent of peop d d y ur opte k servants – teachers an l i d d l d d l s; unmarrie e

eaving sma eaving oca , d lifestyle’ is at the markets. lifestyle’ l ff l d is a homegrown sport sport is a homegrown ies than in the past, the vi ‘ one of the Thai mi d y in apartments a an gri ents hea henomenon where u where henomenon an ll b dd d kb kicking of and variety culty p an b , most Thais sen ffi as l to commercia b ll ac s. Many a s. Many ut a fair à·grôr l d inner an b stu b professions can ital as excessively materialistic. đ egree is a source of contem egree is a source d d from the mar uent and increasingly Westernised and increasingly uent d p d ffl . d of hus hones, fast food, K- hones, fast food, to family back to family er in-town neigh es in their a d p for osable income in Bangkok is un in Bangkok osable income g ves b l ld p d is its own is its own es as we l k irts of the ur e up the age. o k k ll in the rice pa to some k to an a to an ess of the jo l an tri d p y units an dl ies in terrace housing estates outsi ies in terrace housing estates b l l e toi l earn enough to pay o to pay earn enough ive in the o ets are goo for themse l prospects in the service in fami k ld k in the vi itchen stap l b oom years of the 2000soom years of ai d k oyees – ma s across the country. The civi s across the country. ourers to professiona b l

l sector of the society. ear fami b ll l minton or join in the civic-run aero – and the one used in intramural or international com- or international in intramural – and the one used ens growing papayas, mangoes an ens growing papayas, ays. Regar ays. ives in the city centre, usua centre, ives in the city d a l l d d d ay, the wage earners an the ay, i itiona a l d e emographic perspective Thai d ing for an easy commute b e raise l ass d k gar b l capita ets se à·grôr y l survive on the outs d k ay đ l ll other to coo eaguere to l b d e ass, some of whom have migrate whom have ass, some of hy. In many ways Bang ways many In hy. towns for jo ive in nuc ren from l l b est p ll

oung Thais are opportunity migrants, aloes could talk they’d all the village gossip know ld f The economic More tra More From a From One of the best places to view the Thai Though fewer peop Y

ﬀ d sewhere in the country an esserts. Night mar usiness c ehin l ages sti home for ho an rest of the country, which views which the ca rest of the country, seasons, the fashions are purchase minister Thaksin’s populist measures for providing economic relief to populist measures for minister Thaksin’s this centre. Some might government emp to jog, p Thais front-yar They form their own ur d l b fronts, ma hours of the b ion addictions. The of dis amount ies where they cou Li vary lifestyles accordin Individual ogra Thaismiddle-class u wake provincia their pay home to their parents or to support home to their parents their pay Day mar Day e chi world with all the mod cons: smartworld with all ing c sma bu ing. Women pursue careers instea pursue ing. Women was introduced to the Southeast Asian Games by Thailand, and international and international Thailand, by Games Asian the Southeast to introduced was A popular variation on popular variation A Ðà·grôr 543 BC, the 543 BC, in Thailand is that involves fancy footwork and a woven rattan ball. Players typically stand in a circle in a circle stand typically Players ball. rattan and a woven footwork fancy that involves by airborne the ball keep and simply try to players) depends on the number of (the size di style, for scored are Points other. each kicking it between SOCK IT TO ME texts, in old English football Siamese called Sometimes manoeuvres. This form of the game is often played by friends wherever there’s a little there’s friends wherever by played is often the game of This form manoeuvres. beaches. and sandy playground school lot, a vacant room: petitions – is played like volleyball, with a net, but with only the feet and head permitted permitted and head but with only the feet with a net, volleyball, like – is played petitions spiking the aerial pirouettes, perform the players see amazing to It’s the ball. touch to a hoop into kicking the ball has players variation Another with their feet. the net over ball and no backboard! with feet, – basketball the ground above 4.5m championships tend to alternate between the Thais and Malaysians. the between alternate to tend championships reckoned from from reckoned is BE 2555 etc. that AD 2011 is AD 2011 that The official year beginning of the beginning of so Era, Buddhist BE 2554, AD 2012 AD 2012 BE 2554,

728 THE PEOPLE & CULTURE LIFESTYLE

THE PEOPLE & CULTURE RELIGION

729 RICE export. for domestic domestic for touted as the touted Lifestyle Lifestyle Statistics the crop in half the crop Average age for for age Average Minimum daily Entry-level Thailand is often Thailand is often per year, dividing per year, 20 million tonnes million tonnes 20 rice basket of the of basket rice consumption and consumption world; it produces it produces world;

» » » marriage for a for marriage Thai man/woman: years 27/24 in Bangkok: wage 206B government 9000B per salary: month

. l - - - - y y y a b t, ll d i . le w l it dly p ing l y in oca a ush hist, p l roof l (the bàh omes b b · Tri irth is d a rover d ( es sti rimar dd b anterns d. p p p dá . l ranch of oorways orts and orts with the b d ﬀ n·

emic tests, d ering foo les of dail unishment. er at the erio ehave ehave d d ﬀ sangha bi ets of Bang p p p of Bu p e b t of re p hists y in the onion k a p l d p : o tural forms, is d itan ty p ) osition in Thai l dd in p

e restaurants as rove their lot in better’ existence that is existence or o p ‘ hists, a ) d d (‘nirvana’ in San- ension systems. ension d p ecting Thailand’s ecting estowe

d p er or ﬂ aa p b lanning e lanning d si

dd is also an end to the the streets ear hothai ceremonies remain p d y-craw in the Thai dd is chanted morning d aa l an k y re e lk a p d aa ar worshi l of the Tiratana b l hist, the minority re hist, the minority

d im in poc an usiness, aca l

p tam bun arge roun l a Bu ibb e that creature or that roa y non-Bu l b The conce ( d . d dd n k riests, d b e i resse l . p amm k es, engage y a rewar to the worshi ier form, such as an insect nibb p l a revere b ll d ana d dh y, rocession of Buddhist monks, rocession of y Bu l an erson can im l ow ﬂ ie p ro l p as Mus

, even erstate es Thais with a sense of humi p the socia d ut even cosmo serve a cree overexten hism is d icate d d (good actions bring good results; uring the Su asica nibb d d p b b d d aa b d ing merit e architecture, the three-tiere onsored family- onsored dd e an k lus theylus start in men to outnumber s. The an centres, ective in a a l of arma, ex ivine. Thai roya (the teachings) and the p ôo pl d l gathering ﬀ l oure p rovi b k k erforming regu a host of other concerns. k l aa d h d e are Therava p E p t in success in d taught to every Thai citizen in ominant . es

blowing out’ or extinction of all gras c l ac a Bu ‘ ) y every corner. Wa y every corner. ourhoo i d d pl d l b y ma . A good d pl so b â ) hote l b re eo d amm k e one another. The green-hue e one another. ies a non-human body. Re ies a non-human body. p p in Thai ward mobility has erased some of the over has erased ward mobility o e an ane goa d s an p ms foo d p l ing has occu k dh d orn higher u k ulation ( ulation pl so resu ives k as semi- omain of Brahman b te l p come l ôoa, dukkha eysuccess to s they too were once ( orange-co d d o p d eities. h

k on near . The scul Buddha, in his myriad igion. In tem igion. In p d p regnant an ongsi a neigh d g l ) f in the most un l our shortages an d e re l p k b hist theory of b e Gems. of Therava ness. They might o is the orange-robed monks, who carry on the day-to-

ramun a d Chinese tem l d a s an d p erha pl ife an y the y acce erin dd l l d both moment-to-moment and life-to-life ﬀ p ortunities have reduced the fertility reduced – rate so successfully ortunities have ll ( ing can a e foun ôw, k ee; tam c ensive Bang in future pp su y 95% of Thai j m b y the Thai l ractise a d p d ll ife an cation, reincarnation is

hea sangha ll l ﬁ p usive i

d l that hn Confucian â l d . Successful government-s . Successful with Chinese characters an ă d ea of reincarnation a d timate en ) ove, getting ove, getting l in southern towns. In ur in southern towns. In ion s can d l d

y house-to-house a y house-to-house ay an d l e p fee – the Buddha, the d . The g on a high she ee, d l ) onations to the mon b strati rise 30% of the of the 30% rise usiness of the re hism, often viewe hism that came from Sri Lanhism that came from Sri e d ai l though the country is d d d p b roximate l as in ex k ing d evening in every tem

interconnecte thus of a an resents the Tri ll dd dd d iance on fate as a The Buddhist hierarchy in Thailand is made u The new generation’s u The new generation’s The i The u most Thai Buddhists aim for rebirth in a reality, In A Historica d d d here to the Bu d k p l most exc most universa át. Merit-ma ith shave e orshi arning of future arning eligion is alive and well in Thailandeligion is alive and colourful exam pp u uddhist community u ive a goo ay rofessional o rofessional ad actions bring bad results o n n n n om e e ather than the su he he morning and you’llhe morning see the solemn hroughout your heir 30s oun rom six children in the 1960s children in rom six no are – that analysts today to 1.6 children n ife to socia of the mosques mar deceased relative now occu schoo d r B al f w a ﬁ B tam b l a w t r ad es an L r al a skrit), which literally means the skrit), which literally means a cycle of rebirths Buddhis A B k w t gions often Reli R w t p f w c t Taoist an Taoist inscri Gems mar

; ------s e s, A le . d . ) . d or le’s pl p ays s o to en u p the p d l g efore b hases d ms in y l n Pali b p l i talk by a

rotested worldly nairn aa p u tura ( p g l er is then the han les tend to ing im otus p before the (eight-pre- s. l d k p r marrie ) tar, an tar, a aa g iven a minor l o vice p g il amm

o hikkh roviding charity to the tem timally between b as cu as ld dh p d p rather than the ending on ending ll y mar l revalent before the w n p tth oor an oor ll hasise study of the three times p o ﬂ or a etween the t p d -v b ut there are ho ut there ica

revent illegal logging 0 a career ending on the tem on the a b p s d têht ritua p p d

n of renouncin l erform funeral and mar ay trip to an important ay s the a g ay a 1 p d d , listening to monks chant- s ace ua d

tart ) ering foo ace a ff s d d erings such as pl ff pl ays, ty ays, a s ivi d ath t for the forest tem e o i k uare of thin go end as little as a week to accrue end as little d l ied by women who had no other these holy days Thais will these holy days p towar d the forehea q p icate en route to another outing. Dur bb p g d u uy o eriod in his life, o d d p l b p sangha e ightenment as we ightenment and lives as an l d ) owe ins in July and coincides with the rainy and coincides ins in July ar Sa l g b en tar. A s tar. ual to full monkhood. A Buddhist nun is l l , and attending , and attending owers are e a illars of Thaiillars sover namely nationhood, igious ho igious teacher. ing sto ent in the wát is three months, during the ected to become a monk ( riest fl q l ) is k p k oor. Male children can enter the monastery Male oor. d p p p d uired to live an ascetic life free of luxury sometimes two, de sometimes two, p resent these symbolic gifts the tem to ( ing is an in orary ordinations occur under the age of 20 q articu it incense stic p k p l l and the time he p iritua ecte so re l p p oo , which be ed trees in sacred cloth to at the a ) ch d mother er day er day individually or in groups pp s ( or stands, in the case of outdoor altars or stands, in the case of ing activities inc (

( ha image. p the monarchy. k s s n Thai) for a short air. air. Worshippers d ee i e for s etween the heart an ﬀ g

uired to shave their heads, eyebrows and any facial hair their heads, eyebrows and any uired to shave ante e a merit-ma dd h he le that is not e b ù q pl c ublic-schooling system. Monks also take on social-justice also take ublic-schooling system. Monks s d

p tures, while those who o pl ha image. The l p reat merit when one of its sons ‘takes robe and bowl’. Tra reat merit when one of its sons ‘takes robe and bowl’. u d osition traditionally occu p l hism has no hism has g ni p ﬁ ík·s dd ion an Buddhist discourse p e gesture. The hea dd which occur which every de seventhor eighth day ( g mâa ,

k reserving three the le to listen to teachings, make merit and circumnavigate the merit and circumnavigate to teachings, make le to listen when a man may enter the when a man may Buddhist lent ) l i , s ( l p rá p

meditating as ot or another res , rá their residence in the monastery as a si p to the Bu h

tt a e or inc g p ă ha image with three d bb u h hasise meditation. Fully ordained monks ordained hasise meditation. Fully or e rites, conduct instruct sermons and monastic teachin pl wn a s t) nun, a p rayer nty, re nty, dd g In rural areas, the monastery is also a social institution, In Other merit-ma In Thai Buddhism, women who seek a monastic life are In Monks are re Monks Thai Bu o á p xe g p rimary Bu lace in society. Thai nuns shave their heads, wear white robes and take their heads, wear Thai nuns shave lace in society. an·s ﬃ ears old ng role in the tem em a traditions). Monks who live in the city usually em who live in the city traditions). Monks Buddhist scri concerns. They are also re incense and candles and incense and candles and Bu are then raise family earns a advent of the ce p and receive a free education, a tradition that was more and receive a free education, a tradition that was more ria Socially, every Thai male is ex Socially, prá of time s the length ditionally, p y i the a Monks & Nun ing these visits, merit-ma p tant events in the Buddha’s life. Durin tant events in the Buddha’s Merit-Makin Thais tem visit tertainment. They might ma duty of duty ei of the moon. Thereof the are a tem worshipper kneels outreach to the sick and the dam-building, or wra congregationa (wan season. However, nowadays men may s men may nowadays season. However, kn durin sang merit as monks. Most tem merit as monks. Most the tem main sanctuary times. three the incense is the time he and eat one meal and environmental causes; a number of revered monks have causes; a number of reveredand environmental monks have (2011; (2011; (2001; (2001; Citizen Citizen (2010; (2010; , the male , unsolicited unsolicited as a gecko. advice from from advice lead receives receives lead his deceased his deceased movie movie Dog Spiritual in Thai movies Readings a popular topic a popular topic Sacred Tattoos Tattoos Sacred Access to Thai Folk Being Dharma: Reincarnation Reincarnation is has been reborn has been reborn and books; in the and books; grandmother who grandmother

» » » » of Thailand of Joe Cummings) Insight (www. accesstoinsight. org) Con- Wisdom: Takes temporary on Traditional Proverbs Tulaya Pornpiriya- Tulaya Jane kulchai and Vejjajiva) Ajahn Chah) The Essence of of The Essence the Buddha’s Teachings

730 THE PEOPLE & CULTURE RELIGION THE PEOPLE & CULTURE ARTS 731 Asia. ern school be- ern school Buddhism was Buddhism was school is often is often school The Theravada the rest of east east of the rest from the Indian from Southeast Asia, Asia, Southeast subcontinent to to subcontinent while Mahayana while Mahayana Tibet, China and Tibet, out the northern called the south- called regions of Nepal, Nepal, of regions cause it travelled it travelled cause adopted through- adopted

------e y y a l- l- e . k ) or in i b l our, b d b er scho d icte d a. These in which hist tem- l p or to a fee ( oth a e led with b arts of the d b d s largest re dd p ’ e p Ya serpent l l one. Of these soaring roof d ay l im neigh ers an d l d d a ics of important l k om of Pattani, an om of Pattani, o aren’t considered het Mohammed reciation of beaut d tra k p ee b (guardian spirits). Based on animistic on animistic Based spirits). (guardian is often y Mus Thailand h pp l resent- ours an d l p hist majority. There are hist majority. p a mythica Ara , erences, cou co dd âa c ff d a hist iconography as artis g ld airs. To further cultivate good relations and relations good further cultivate To airs. m the ff a dd owers and water are made to the spirit house. the spirit house. to made are and water owers d fl prá poom prá y, the south shares y, N ominant e l heritage are the Bu d l itation an ing, iscrimination, have iscrimination, have ian an k d u-Bu re ddl d d es. ing hist majority in some hist majority d p s southern Muslims are ethnicall s southern Muslims d d ’ ea e architecture is the presence of one l p dd e with the Bu – over 200 in Bang a dialect of Malay written in the Arabic written a dialect of Malay hism. Many contain re hism. Many sun with wi gui ( y s d l l d ll . dd an uring me le buildings, humble old-fashioned houses inguistic y si l in the consensus of the Ummah, or Mus Ummah, in the consensus of the ha l d p y on Hin

b d l d e uence of In dd ed for the royal court. ﬂ aysia. Accor aysia. ulation, Muslims make u make ulation, Muslims d ha p l p erings of rice, fruit, fruit, rice, of erings ﬀ Bu o , a mountain-shaped monument that pays tribute , a mountain-shaped monument that pays ity of Bu ity dd l l ) p i Ma y heavi south. e b l d heritage with its is veste e. instructiona d Bu l iving si p ues in Thai d e in the tropica igious an l d pl l l q an e stupa ( d eo d

es re om whose territory stra tura e chores. Genera eak Malay or Yawi or Yawi eak Malay l an intensely visual culture and an a l p azz d ershi s p di an pl d l d e ay uring sta assic component of temp ominate h in the regions of Pattani, Narathiwat, Satun an Narathiwat, in the regions of Pattani, l ing tectur l d ea c d d l isconnection from the Bu k i a cu d tion of re d in addition to Thai. These cultural di m re ) s of p ues, 99% are associated with the Sunni branch of Islam ues, 99% of Islam are associated with the Sunni branch s im- t o l l ourishes an q restigious as monks and don’t have a functionthe merit-making in don’t have restigious as monks and 1500 through the in fl p p If the human house is enlarged the spirit house must also be enlarged, so that the spirits that the spirits so be enlarged, also must the spirit house is enlarged If the human house priest. a Brahman by be consecrated must Spirit houses slighted. feel do not good fortune, daily o fortune, good beliefs that predate Buddhism, guardian spirits are believed to reside in rivers, trees and trees in rivers, reside to believed are spirits guardian Buddhism, that predate beliefs spirit of The guardian placated). (and be honoured and need to features natural other an honoured a mother-in-law, of equivalent land is the supernatural of plot a particular distracted, happily the spirits keep To member. family troublesome but sometimes can spirits the where on the property structures dollhouse-like elaborate Thais erect human a from separated comfortably ‘live’ Many homes or inhabited dwellings in Thailand have an associated ‘spirit house’, built to built to ‘spirit house’, an associated have Thailand in dwellings or inhabited homes Many land’s of plot the for a residence provide HOUSES OF THE HOLY THE OF HOUSES rch Thai temp Islam was introduced to Thailand’s southern region between AD 1200 southern region between was introduced to Thailand’s Islam d amic amic es, which l l er an l erce olitical authority is given to descendants of the Pro olitical authority ings or the historica r m n reside in the south, con Muslims most of Thailand’s this day, rs. To nd the high arts develo s entrate reature, guar are of tem itua s s hat infuses audacious tem ween Thai ines. A c im community), and 1% with the Shi’iteim community), religious and branch (in which igious minority, igious minority, to the en Malaysia. Indeed, most of Thailand Indeed, Malaysia. k tic Malay and s Malay c Most striking of Thailand’s architectura striking of Thailand’s Most l o t a A p Art Thailand ha p ing of I t d a a c I l p Isla At around 4% of the l c a r scri mos some 3000 mos Mus southerners trace their heritage to the former King southerners trace their heritage to the former - - - - otus l les of p hothai k ecorate theecorate d ean forms in . p to d itating in a itating of the roof is thethe roof of d ight p fl ond, illustrating the ond, illustrating p the spires of Su the spires ean Bauhaus movement, les of Sino-Portuguese ar les of Sino-Portuguese d p p Ayuthaya Historical Park, Park, Historical Ayuthaya Ayuthaya Bangkok Arun, Wat Sukhothai Historical Park, Park, Historical Sukhothai Sukhothai Wat Phra Mahathat Worama- Mahathat Phra Wat and National Mu- hawihaan Thammarat Nakhon Si seum, Na- Park, Historical Phimai Phanom khon Ratchasima; Surin Park, Historical Rung Chiang Mai; Singh, Phra Wat National Mu- Chiang Saen Chiang Saen seum, Phra Pathom Chedi, Nakhon Chedi, Pathom Phra Museum, Lopburi Pathom; Chama Thewi, Wat Lopburi; Lamphun ort of Thailand, cities includ ict him me the colonial era. This is style p ers are textbook exam g p es. On the ti On the es. e p d bl y- fl umns an umns l ne exam situations. evenourish in unlikely fi fl motif that is often motif use houette suggestinghouette l d at nose. at ah co fl and atop a and atop uences with uences si d ha often fl uired d kok’ or ‘Ratanakosin’. or kok’ q uenced; heavily heavily uenced; ired by the Euro g ; thickuenced fl dd fl naga gure, round, round, gure, p fi ining roof ga roof ining l erfection to -shape p out d Indian in hair curls, large torso, (like eyebrows arched eyes, protruding ing birds), and thick lips Ayuthaya-era Ayuthaya-era king, wear- crown ing a gem-studded regalia. and royal style.Ayuthaya Reviving Pho and Wat Kaew, Phra Wat Graceful poses, often often poses, Graceful no ‘walking’, depicted human detail. anatomical Indian in humanlike ornamented, and slightly features at the waist. twisted under meditating Buddha the seven- of a canopy headed lotus pedestal. Burmese in plump and footpads smiling face in medi- upwards facing pose. tation d ir b edestal. It carries with it a reminder of the tenets with it a reminder edestal. It carries of

e gates, veran e gates, p l is another sacre is another

en d with ed u ld ings an ings chedi p b l chedi chedi ourishes; ourishes; chedi Images of the Bu of Images ﬂ a go : chedi otus prang prang di. l e topped by a by topped áh with stepped with stepped f angkok’s relatively modern skyscra angkok’s ch acity for religious for acity

Thaistraditional architecture began mixing with Euro B The p a ostmodern dos and don’ts. In the 1960s In ostmodern dos and don’ts. '70s and in mod the trend lossom-sha r Rectangular-based Rectangular-based chedi tiers TEMPLE& CHEDI STYLES BUDDHA STYLES EXAMPLES Colourful and gilded Colourful Western- with temple mosaic- Thai styles; covered bell-shaped spire with tapering Classical Classical Thai temple roof with three-tiered and gable lotus bud Hindu-Buddhist Hindu-Buddhist corn-cob temples; shaped (Khmer-styled chedi) Teak temples; square-based Khmer-inspired slim-spired temples; chedi topped by gilded by topped octag- also umbrella; onal-based Mahayana-Buddhist Mahayana-Buddhist Java- temples; style nese-style arches elaborate often referred to as ‘old Ban often referred to as ‘old p ern Thai architecture, ins e b and Phuket, ac ing Bangkok chitecture facade – decorated with an ornate buildings of stuccoed brick – that followed the sea traders durin a style entrance rai entrance the late 19th and early 20th The centuries. ca Buddhism. The can bloom even lotus in a rancid tops of the temp tops of chôr Dvaravati Dvaravati Period (7th–11th Centuries) PERIOD Bangkok-Ratan- Period akosin (19th Century) Ayuthaya Ayuthaya Pe- riod (14th–18th Centuries) Khmer Period (9th-11th Centuries) Chiang Saen- Lanna Period (11th–13th Centuries) Sukhothai Pe- riod (13th–15th Centuries) Srivijaya Srivijaya Period (7th–13th Centuries) THAILAND’S ARTISTIC PERIODS

732 THE PEOPLE & CULTURE ARTS THE PEOPLE & CULTURE ARTS 733

(2002; (2002; c. c. (2006; (2006; (1998; ﬁ Arts Arts (2010; Joe (2010; Recom- mended mended Reading Bangkok Bangkok Buddhist The Thai House: The Arts of Thai Flavours:

» » » » » Design: Thai Design: & Textiles in Ideas Furniture Brian Mertens) of Temples Visual Thailand: A Through Journey 40 Thailand’s Historic Most Wats Cummings) History and History Evolution Chai- Ruethai chongrak) Thailand Beek) Van Steve Art Contemporary Steven (2005; Pettifor) , ------s ’ ) i g p san g eriod MIT an ex p ( eneral, reserve g les. the du g the Su p y iction of g p g is based on Chinese pat- on Chinese is based g p dern Thai les where en-and-ink o p looked like looked p kok. g ures. g kok. Ran kok. g f m ion. In ion. In g

aintings. There ﬁ the two. o g Lackin . p p ainting is limited to osure overseas than e p ana Ben·jà·rong Ben·jà·rong p y e buildin g er in the de ﬀ les are found at Ayuthaya ama . p (stories of the Buddha’s past (stories of the Buddha’s ed in the re the father R atronage of the ruling ca s

g ns such as ML Sumet Jum aa p c i g dating of religious themes and p ama VI in 1923 and built Ban style p R ) eriods di atak

j p

y e c. ve-colour’ style. style. ve-colour’ fi s characteristics in the vari are seen ’ fi and the ourish on the head, the dress uence sur uence fl fl

ict th ned by the p or ‘ or h-tech desi ﬁ p es trace Thailand’s historical and artistic historical es trace Thailand’s ’ on Th Sathon Tai in Ban ’ on Th Sathon Tai g ng & Sculptur ften a credited eriod t g raceful and serene Buddha g i o p or neo-Thai g ective mural of traditional

re-20th-century religious ( ned its own artistic was durin style s p fi p nt les. The earliest exam i p ository mainly in the tem remains ci i ers uered backwater to a sovereign nation. The to a sovereign nation. uered backwater o p p ressionism. Leading works in this genre include q p ben·jà·rong les of a shape and in the features of the Buddha sculptures. rst de fi p Fer i o edi ment of Thai religious art and architecture into is broken h raduate of Massachusetts Institute of Technolo Institute raduate of Massachusetts tures and murals communicate a visual language of the tures and murals communicate p c g p to Thailandrst invited b rrad fi artistic re onal Pa cartonits side. When Thai turned on architects be 70s Thai artists tackled the modernisation of Buddhist themes eriods or schools de i Co 9 s p t gg s facial features, the to f the i le murals are the main form of ancient Thai art. instruc Always ’ scul o a p ainting favours abstraction over realism and continues to ainting favours

h ting traditional themes to the secular began around the turn canvas s p Each region in Thailand has its own silk-weaving style. In ancient times woven textiles textiles woven In ancient times style. silk-weaving own Thailand has its in region Each Northern Thailand has long produced regionally distinctive lacquerware thanks to the to thanks lacquerware distinctive regionally has long produced Thailand Northern artisans. Burmese of uence ion. These Buddha ima ﬂ p n g iant e dd erent o Italian In the 1 In Tem The develo might have functioned much like business cards do today – demarcating tribal identity identity tribal – demarcating do today cards business much like functioned might have but have continue traditions weaving village Today, status. marriage even and sometimes speci geographically less become Thailand has a long tradition of handicrafts, often regionally and even village speci village and even regionally often handicrafts, of tradition has a long Thailand HANDMADE ART HANDMADE Ceramics include the greenish celadon products, red-earth clay pots of Dan Kwian, and and Kwian, Dan of pots clay red-earth products, celadon the greenish include Ceramics Thailand’s central in terns while celadon is of Thai origin. of is while celadon terns at Ratburana but Bangkok has some of the best survivingat Ratburana but Bangkok exam ﬀ g hen the country erimenting with form over functionerimenting with form over during the building boom of the osition of the feet in meditation.

ti eli ability of other artability forms, al. The best exam hrough abstract ex he colourful surrealism of Pichai Nirand and the mystical ional in intent, murals often de tongue-in-cheek social commentary. Some artists overla tongue-in-cheek social commentary. very few surviving exam Torsuwan, a Torsuwan, introduced the neoclassic Ada p Contemporary Ar The artistic works from the various Buddha are two major trends in Thai art:are two the u t t t a lives) and the Thai e version of the Hindu r W w khothai era, famous for its t the one-dimensional Thailand’ r sai's famous ‘Robot Buildin sai's Trad moved towards a stark functionalism – the avera a p evolution from a con Bu Thai mid-1980s, the result was hi the mid-1980s, kok’s Democracy Monument and other monuments in Ban Democracy Monument kok’s of the 20th in century as Western art. He was art. He drawings of Thawan Duchanee. Receiving more ex of Thawan drawings di

. - - - - s d ll ays . hist d Chil- t an

ayers. l dd à·pohn pl he lores the ha đ

t Mai and Mai p p e e g oom is best er bills from p p ut these Ar a e b p W icted artist Som ients of Bu ients . controversial and controversial p rasert ex le fairs and tourist d y ecame as ecame (Sitting Money) in- Money) (Sitting p p g b iece owers to the rst transcribed by the p fl fi layers he views cor as layers movement in Thai movement con- p l ing cart amid Thailand’s e wax, to create pieces e wax, e tures, which often include ow theatre, ll p dl pp d ve to more than 20 lled the city’s taxi cabs with lled the city’s and was originally developed fi fi t anies classical dance-drama to Ngern Nang ht can sha p â d d Super (M)art Bangkok Survivor p orts Art to turn the Bangkok and ff ink sho e oetic instructions on life and love. e from p s an erience’ instead of a museum. instead of a erience’ p d er incense and þè nes a para nes a layed at dance clubs layed ll ff

p ﬁ u erformances at tem e p e l e es the eight-note octave into sevenes the eight-note octave fu p b d d

rama an th gures. His gures. k d ush to move artush to move of museums and into out fi d gures made from discarded of musical genres and styles, diversity nd a ivi ired by the struggles of the Thai art com fi p fi e eaf, eaf, ing ‘ex d l s rapidly industrialising society, many artists many society, industrialising s rapidly p ’ ll

and his rage against the commercialisation of and his rage against the inta moulds the human anatomy into fantastic anatomy inta moulds the human e ) pp l ld p ance- e can inc ca ecame factories,ecame the forests s d olitically connected. Manit Sriwanich olitically connected. Manit ainting entitled b artwor

bl p l p d s 2002 ink suit with a ink suit with ( ier-mâché tra i p

ic ld s of Montien Boonma uses the ingre uses Boonma Montien of p p Suwan e k a ﬁ ing house music a show that literally went on the road. His other works on the road. His a show that literally went rotested against the e assica p Thai sca , p l p p d iece was ins rche with no semitones. Thai scales were , p ture is often to be the strongest of the contem- considered o ar irituality and daily life in his sculirituality

p l d p y motivate ing, go such as any c any ll aces. An artist and art organiser, Navin Rawanchaikul started Rawanchaikul Navin aces. An artist and art organiser, k p ica as rice as rice c p ss i Rice (Wine) d en to reveal Lertchai inanimate content. Kamin . This f a oils went to the oils went to ) p itica s l instrument plucked like a guitar l p es that often intersect features, such as hinged faces with technological

t. His works have been banned in Thailand been banned and criticised as anti-Thai. have works t. His p a double-headed hand-drum double-headed a Thai scul The stan Po In the 1990s In there was a p ublic s orary arts. Khien forms out and mythical Yimsiri creats elegant human ong Thawee in a in a ong Thawee 2004 – tuned gongs arranged in a semicircle from the serene court music that accom museums in his e watche most iconic attractions. Vasan Sitthiket is more blatantl Sitthiket Vasan most iconic attractions. his ‘in-the-streets’ in his hometown collaborations of Chian can be heard in straightforward art installations then moved his ideas to Bangkok where he Bangkok then moved his ideas to attractions. Theattractions. ensem uses mixed-media installations to condemn the installations to condemn uses mixed-media the s sha to accom to a performance o Prior the players p p o dren ( which munity, p ru at home, the wor at home, he de series, in which on Tour Pink Man known for his The c Mu Throughout Thailand you’ll Music Classical of bronze. Mano stallation included a series of Culture Centre into a sho temporary Thailand art. In the chest-thum subject of s the national bank embellished with have a way with words, such as the mixed-media with words, such as the mixed-media a way have a small army of a small army that o tone intervals merit-ma bamboo-keyed percussion that resembles a xylophone a resembles that percussion bamboo-keyed

– wooden flute high-pitched woodwind, often heard at Thai-boxing matches four-stringed – slender bowed instrument with a coconut-shell soundbox n – Art Art ĭ à·pohn (tohn) – à·pohn (tohn) p sor klòo·i – þèe – èhk rá·nâht yài wong kórng đ

» » » » » » » TRADITIONAL INSTRUMENTS TRADITIONAL Galleries Kathmandu 100 100 Tonson Gal- H Gallery, National Mu- Bangkok Art Museums &

» » » » » Photo Gallery, Gallery, Photo Bangkok lery, Bangkok lery, Bangkok seum, Bangkok seum, and Culture Centre

734 THE PEOPLE & CULTURE ARTS THE PEOPLE & CULTURE ARTS 735 à·pohn sor klòo·i kórng wong yài đ (tohn) èhk rá·nâht þèe

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d itica . p q ity to ity ll lb l l o a ma ancers. . indie’ – indie’ literall ‘ grou p d ( d out and

ao mixe 40s p to Bang y l b led with o d Japan pop, Japan d is sti ne ( p p ﬁ now has an d e ic early death, d s, which often d etween g k with an a b e (‘songs for life’). (‘songs of the USA an of the USA uang Duang on the Lao-Isan s an p l e, Cara l . k oo ôok tûng ôok tûng p d d t country bum ous to country and l l ‘ u e showgir

orary singers regu g rmly rooted in the rmly l in and da d ﬁ d p ower cou ing y aye orn University gra orn University roc l e fashions instea is p l k fence an d pl l lk ove themes. During the . owe l

g , essential for hi-so’ or socialites), which or socialites), hi-so’ ll l an ‘ ) -sty l ong . eals to working-class Thais.eals to working-class l scene – known as k ustry – sometimes referre e e generation of imitators a o p l l d e of this sty d tûn pp le but insistent bass beat and le but insistent bass beat kradan. Gravelly voiced Siri kradan. Gravelly k o k p p pl s national anthem in 1932. anthem s national p ’ e ranges from sentimenta e ranges from l ition afterwar y si nger was Pum ôo l osed to and sport English names. Thai- d ll si Caravan, this sty Caravan, y Las Vegas–sty g

a who he has fo Bang d b pp g d d

also known by his Thai by known also Phr name, y si d on the songs ( l y conscious fo d pleng pêu·a chee·wít . The oldest style is most likely to be . The is most likely style oldest an d enre in Thaienre in ) xture in the constellation; she’s she’s xture in the constellation; e ar with Thais in their 30s an

ll ﬁ l Bird’ Mcintyre (also known as Pi Bird). Bird’ Mcintyre b g ing exam k the generationa ‘ d tûn on excels with the oh-so-sad ballads and

it's a folk tradition a folk tradition it's u fa·ràng of four Chu d l e s Wat Tha s Wat d ; - ’ k ase p ac p d e see it on YouTube b itica o b p bb l ( ôo spawne m p l egun to merge. Contem u osed Thailand ose serious d is b d s p p s of the ’70s many of Caravan’s songs were o s of the ’70s of Caravan’s many d onsored cremation when she died in 1992 and onsored cremation when d princess is Tai Orathai, a college graduate who princess is Tai carry the tra u p p g e to another with a few songs in d an o ongstan l endent record label Bakery Music. During indie’s During endent record label Bakery Music. l ics rather than the usua l hanburi aintive singing sty aintive singing e r La y haircut an an p p p d on artists chosen for their goo p ŏ low society’ as o pl d lp has jum ‘ ern musica d is a current ramatic notes with rivers of fee to d in the po l p an is Thongchai t fam d l d with the Thai am p . Girly Berry young songstresses is a group of attractive, d os lôok tûng dates to the 1940s.elds’), which Analo o uts the rock-and-roll in )

ﬁ mo & M version an r l t. The p e so has a thriving teen-pop in p g ong he ﬁ l w ŏ p . Another b m g ern Dog, com p orary shift in Thai Songs of this nature have music. e o singers are often d in um came out in 1986 an ’s a is Thailand's blues is Thailand's m heavy meta heavy – centre d p d p d ll ai d ersona, he is very

d t p lb enti p p d o u d am an p in b rate those l e anne an a wind instrument devised reeds of a double row of bamboo-like fi e, which the Thais ll b ( estse r l k b . The ne y i p rst a ay, Mo ay, ŏ b fl d fi y n environmenta , the two genres have genres have , the two d y cross from one sty ll l The current pop stars crop of pop stars are imitating Korean The 1990s birth to an alternative gave Thai Jintara Poonlar Jintara As from across the country economic migrants move have Thailand M d k ve ectri hen Duriyang), who com who hen Duriyang), hie ouveau with a tren orn Am ioneered by the inde o lmost every year since. With Madonna’s staying staying lmost every year since. With Madonna’s n uthoritarian dictatorshi nguish an nd the dire circumstances da of farmers who work re sti tes, orchestrated the generation’s musical coming of age. Another indie tes, orchestrated the generation’s l ia o as T- ure was Loso (from tted into a hardwood soundbox tted n roc ar or contem children of the children of the e image, northeast of Thai with a signature dance move Subject matter almost always cleaves to tales of lost love, tra cleaves almost always Subject matter fi a major shrine at Su Thai Rock & Po The 1970s ushere Euro can vi n p lo k l kaa nice-guy His His p a t means they are half-Thai, half- means they are half-Thai, king of land’s a c i t C j a a a Pirom the farm-girl look. Mike a a Lôok Tûn Lôok The ‘ Thai-German composer Peter Feit Thai-German Feit Peter composer C Rock Salaeng who received a royally s heard at a village gathering and has a sim heard at a village gathering western music in the USA, it’s a genre that a in the USA,western music it’s or J-pop, is out hey is often sung in Isan dialect. It has traditionally had a is often in Isan sung - - - - o k c- le a- u- é p ets ast o . p p eal, . m p p n l ulate pp o pp p Music u Ra y p ·k and . orate cos Lá b . oles. Stories erformances p g) erformances – p a and a host of icts the n p p p . ă revolves around is a gaudy, rau- is a gaudy, y n haimani, r ( alace transitioned are mani gures fi p p erformed at tem rovide shrine danc uired to mani ered art forms have atronage. p p q eous costumes, melo g p ve centuries originally -to-date commentary. g erform fi lí·gair who has been abducted p , p s hra A hra , which de one. p P n g

h y Dancers wear ela g . artment Khun ŏ ned to Jay-Z’s record label. ned to Jay-Z’s p k erha g

p s ana les will also y p ular Thai TV actor and minor royal alo or cow hides ﬀ p o u articularl et are re masters ama b p p R pp successful and the movies that are con ht to have descended from drama rituals ht to have u . there are usually two concurrent streams: there are usually two , y g e shows is lon p n g a een in decline since the een in decline since the b ki dance-drama i

s e a inema u e sta c m o g for music. He has since resurfaced as a in the US for music. He i arades. School-aged children often traditional take lomerate. The alt scene lives on in Abuse the Youth, unk, reggae and other international genres nanciall p ets by means of wires attached to long ets by means of wires attached ﬁ a g p p for Thainity rhythms. But the folk melodies and Ra ﬃ h pp t fam T u et theatre – in which two-dimensional et theatre – in which two-dimensional erformed at Buddhist festivals, o p os . Two to three . Two p t h arts hav n s Theatre pp g m h u s stick comedy, sexual and u innuendo stick comedy, ŏ p & rovincial me a p k from the

o p ht by a con uenced by uenced y ﬂ o g ed the funky factor. Their hit ‘Disco’ has become a wedding-song has become Their hit ‘Disco’ factor. ed the funky etalso enjoyed royal and common theatre m t c i h the era of villa ht to southern Thailand by Arab and Malay traders. It contains ht to southern Thailand by Arab and Malay ht to the Malay Peninsula by Middle Eastern traders. In Thailand it is Eastern traders. In by Middle Peninsula ht to the Malay e pp pp the Thai version of India’s the Thai version of India’s g g g , writer for Beyoncé and was recently si le. Hugo Chakrabongse was a le. Hugo en g p Pu Shadow- Every region has its own traditional dance style dance style region has its own traditional Every often Most The revived Riders has brought down the tem disco sound of Groove Thailand’ dated Carabao’s a dated Carabao’s in the evil to the island of Lanka 10-headed and taken Ravana demon h an p een salvaged and revived. Folk traditions have a broader a have traditions een salvaged and revived. Folk rou rou ands in ut u imilar t in Thailand are carved from dried (little theatre) used marionettes of varying theatre) used marionettes sizes for court(little Class A Cigarettes, Slur, Tattoo Colour and A Tattoo Slur, Class A Cigarettes, when he gave it all u when he gave decade has moved these bands into ‘classic’ rock status and Baker bands into ‘classic’ decade has moved these Prince Rama’s search for his beloved Princess Sita search for his beloved Princess Rama’s Prince from a cloistered community. Some of the endan from a cloistered community. sta the metre-high sidered cinematically meritorious. Only occasionally do these overla b C W drama, sla s by to ers, who are commissioned by merit-makers cous theatrical art thou form b Dance hi Thailand’s b ki tumes and some characters The are masked. central stor b b u has been a Southeast Asian tradition for mostly found in the south. As in Malaysia and Indonesia, shadow and Indonesia, mostly found in the south. As Malaysia in the movies that are a colourful mix of folk and classical music, outra are drawn from Thai folk tales, are drawn fairs and lated between a cloth screen and a light source at night-time a cloth screen and a light source at night-time lated between Thai dance lessons. Occasionally tem was bou thou casionall son air and the Pattaya International Music Festival recruits domestic and domestic recruits Music Festival International air and the Pattaya ﬀ )

(Sound- lôok tûng r lam

ŏ Music m (Carabao) (Apartment (Apartment Playlist Sources international talent. Pai has hosted a reggae festival that complements the town’s hip- the town’s that complements festival reggae a has hosted Pai talent. international a including venues, live-music of small collection Chiang Mai has a reputation. pie-haven scene. the musical of the mainstay once club that was ‘songs-for-life’ cosy Bangkok is the source for a nightly dose of live music with clubs specialising in cover in cover specialising clubs music with live of dose a nightly for is the source Bangkok a is Jazz Festival The Hua Hin spin scenes. DJ and jam sessions and rock jazz bands, a well-regarded LOOKING FOR LIVE MUSIC? Thailand Thailand Best Com- Romantic Made in Thai- Made in The Sound of The Sound That Song 365 Jukebox E Thai Music

» » » » » » » (Modern Dog) edy Khunpa) (Pumpuang (Pumpuang Duangjan) land way Records compilation) Siam: Leftfield Siam: Leftfield Jazz Luk Thung, & Thailand Molam in 1964–1975 (www.365jukebox. tracks com) popular hits on Thai radio includ- stations, FM 104.5 ing Fat Seed (alt-rock), (T-pop), FM 97.5 Thung and Luk ( FM95.0 and (www.ethaimusic. is an onlinecom) with music store lyrics transliterated

736 THE PEOPLE & CULTURE ARTS THE PEOPLE & CULTURE ARTS 737

(trans- (Mekong (Mekong Thai Thai (Mischa (Mischa Movies Fiction Recom- mended mended Four Reigns Four 8 Bangkok A Fieldwork: Yam Yasothon Yam Jone Talai Fah Mekhong Sipha in Lioness The Fun Bar Karaoke Bar Fun

» » » » » » » » (John Burdett) (John Novel Berlinski) (Tears of the of (Tears Black Tiger; directed 2000), Wisit Sasana- by tieng Kham Deuan Sip-et Moon Party; Full directed 2002), Jira Malikul by Bloom: Modern Thai Fiction about Women Susan by lated Kepner) Fulop (1997), directed directed (1997), Ratan- Pen-Ek by aruang (Kukrit Pramoj) (2005), directed directed (2005), Petchtai by Wongkamlao

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Ph ﬀ m riate age of viewer g p stinkin with his male nurse. The ed their own version of the e ( in history in Thailand, datin Ra

p rince who must com p

ro uarter longer than the Sanskrit original. rst Thai scri ichat g d ours p ﬁ c the rei q l p (Rak Haeng Siam; 2009), directed by Chukiat (Rak Haeng u od, di ôw to his kin l . g pp ) g g m with homosexuality, includin with homosexuality, a tax on Ho a tax in the Hindu version he follows a strictin the Hindu vow of art to director Pen-Ek Ratanaruang and his gritt Ratanaruang and his art to director Pen-Ek g ( 10-necked’ in the d m n ‘ ing a maiden’s bared breast as if it were an a ing a maiden’s p á p 2010 aganda tool, the n (

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, with more biographical detail on arch-villain Ravana éé ustry. The of majority ustry. es p e ﬁ g t ro

e has been a box-o d v i ur ) p i aa g r bb ers, who have inserte ers, who have p é which was Thailand’s submission to the Oscars that year which was Thailand’s u k , word has a lon t L an uential in Thai culture. source The Indian ue of Thailand’s strati ue of Thailand’s -v d ots an ﬂ h the main themes remained the same, the Thais embroidered y q a as g en pl y love stories and cam . One of the classi The Love of Siam habet. The 30,000-line rossin m

) tt , ite more daring storytelling, Thaistill dedi cinema censors are P i l mma p g é d l p ular Thaiular 1960sin the ballooned cinema and pp 00s, thanks in is ama

’ rises four instalments, focuses on the Ayuthaya-era king who re rises four instalments, focuses on the Ayuthaya-era n ﬁ p irtatious nature R p lthou ﬂ wr en ci H Thai cinema remains largely esca A Of all classical Thai literature Des The to back ghost stories, horror big studios like Thai cinema Po

-and-comer Anocha Suwichakorn d ere often ve levels indicated by a he p icts Hanuman clas icts Hanuman elled an attem uesswork out of what is allowed. he called Thotsakan ﬁ he government he government rst written down durin rst written ng early sensica tells the story of an exiled thorn Phu in the late 18th century 60,000 stanzas and was a chastity Hanuman, the monkey Hanuman, include movies dealin Thai rather than overtsociological commentaries an Criticised as a p ( to Thailand with the Khmers 900 years ago, tem Angkor Phimai and other Hin liefs on Prasat sive and in T ( g Literatur p cated to their jobs and often ban or cut out scenes that contain objection 2007 the In able subject matter. ics, sa com claime Sakveerakul festival favourite u lysed man and his friendshi i d’Or fo winning the Palme most recently call in the Universe; 2003). A in the Universe; his home-grown in home-grown literary of its e many work. Like ﬁ or 12th century when the t serve a dual w t Eventually the Thais develo Eventually and a criti and war before returnin released so far Mon al Mon 738

Eating in Thailand There’s an entire universe of amazing dishes once you get beyond ‘pad thai’ and green curry, and for many visitors food is one of the main reasons for choosing Thailand as a destination. Even more remarkable, however, is the love for Thai food among the locals: Thais become just as excited as tourists when faced with a bowl of well-prepared noodles or when seated at a renowned hawker stall. This unabashed enthusiasm Appon’s Thai for eating, not to mention an abundance of fascinating ingredients and Food (www. infl uences, has generated one of the most fun and diverse food scenes khiewchanta. com) features anywhere in the world. more than 800 Kids may have a problem adjusting to Thai food; see the boxed text, authentic and p 46 for some information on how to deal with this. well-organised Thai recipes – many with helpful The Four Flavours audio recordings Simply put, sweet, sour, salty and spicy are the parameters that defi ne of their Thai Thai food, and although many associate the cuisine with spiciness, virtu- names – written ally every dish is an exercise in balancing these four tastes. This balance by a native Thai. might be obtained by a squeeze of lime juice and a glug of fi sh sauce, or a tablespoon of fermented soybeans and a strategic splash of vinegar. Bitter also factors into many Thai dishes, and often comes from the addition of a vegetable or herb. Regardless of the source, the goal is the same: a favourable balance of four clear, vibrant fl avours. Staples & Specialities Rice & Noodles Rice is so central to Thai food culture that the most common term for ‘eat’ is gin kôw (literally, ‘consume rice’) and one of the most common greetings is Gin kôw rĕu yang? (Have you consumed rice yet?). To eat is to eat rice, and for most of the country, a meal is not acceptable without this staple.

SOMETHING’S FISHY

Westerners might scoff at the all-too-literal name of this condiment, but for much of Thai cooking, fish sauce is more than just another ingredient, it is the ingredient. Essentially the liquid obtained from fermented fi sh, fi sh sauce takes various guises depending on the region. In northeastern Thailand, discerning diners prefer a thick, pasty mash of fermented freshwater fi sh and sometimes rice. Elsewhere, where people have access to the sea, fi sh sauce takes the form of a thin liquid extracted from salted anchovies. In both cases the result is highly pungent, but generally salty (rather than fi shy) in taste, and used much the same way as the saltshaker is in the West. EATING IN THAILAND STAPLES & SPECIALITIES 739

ahn đ cuisine. the grain. and in 2010 and in 2010 Thai Food authoritative authoritative book on Thai book on formal street street formal exported 9.03 9.03 exported ered the most the most ered nám· Thailand is the world’s leading leading world’s focuses on less on less focuses exporter of rice, rice, of exporter nám þlah is widely consid- cooking. cooking. Thomp- million tonnes of of million tonnes David Thompson Thompson David Thai Street Food, Thai Street English-language English-language son’s latest book, book, latest son’s

, - - - e y g a d n l p ê b a er

l s een ean lain d our d egg. b ﬂ b aan ‘p d ection g rising,

, . When that is p ungent ) l g y un ian-sty w , shrim p l d ) e eateries, f-se create ients with l l y arity of arity þlò d ) as well as l l tangy sa tt g, our an u d ﬂ e curries, stir rêu·an (literally ‘jelly p et mea ôw k loying brown or k o nn k i k

aan ushing rice- with rice y a stea l p p ( a g p e from mung-

dl d g y n·sê with a se ôw b the country has tiny chillies tiny d

with water to form ege k (rice noodle soup). Typically these these Typically noodle soup). (rice ( d gaang jèut e wú ishes d d er three ways to make the soup the soup make to ways er three

ming ll a hot an ﬀ , l p e ma d o , pp ŏ e·o an at sheets. The sheets are ients in dl rêu·an ﬂ gà uce d

lies. Residents of Thailand’s (sliced green chillies in vinegar), in vinegar), chillies green (sliced d k d to đĕ e from wheat s e, d d an n sên pp ing. In Chinese-sty ing. In ro . l d l ú s p such as unches ( b oi aked or ground to a near powder) and and powder) a near to or ground aked e main o·ay o·ay ar morning mar b our mixe ﬂ l ingre ﬂ

ear noo b ŏ d l s orts the 1960s. since The highest l is u rík kêe n , d g p p is ma p p sticky rice’, a glutinous short-grained rice’, sticky her am w ‘ ica

e, o

rie d , y è p ths. een d p d together a j orridge sometimes em ongsi ing water, much the way Ita much the way ing water, d l l d ing an array of fresh ingre ing an array nám sôm prík nám sôm p e·o ·m egins with a most c ice e l ĕ m d l oi a b to form wi s a in p icy curries an ŏ i es an curries for which Thai cuisine is famous. bà b d d b. p d ld bl e to form an aromatic, extreme e is in e, e from rice aste. Ty l um an a , l d grin een p (jasmine rice), a fragrant long grain that is so dl s dl ase kà·n atter atter kôw n j

íí l

d (dried red chilli, chilli, red (dried b est t k ers in rice ex p p d m y steaming,not y serve eautiful rice’.

l ŏ curry’, but it actually dish with a lot any describes curry’, b vegeta n·sên ‘ d ea es ma ‘b

d l aste- , ouring countries that there is a ouring countries that there d

e of noo dl p à·n into various wi various seasonings. wú ing an y e b xation on rice, is the overwhe d rm má·l ﬁ ld kl i d d d K k (it sounds somewhat similar to the English ‘gang’) is choices: er four ared by soaking in hot water for a few minutes. The most prík þòn ŏ ﬀ ll oa g in ic p with various s ŏ e. ice k noo p ain rice in a restaurant you use the term s, which are an ime juice, fresh s , l

e from rice,

d re l d oun rather thic k p water. Often so water. d d d boiled rice’, a watery boiled rice’, pl s p p ‘ d northeast ea

d nd four basic kinds of noodle in Thailand. Hardly sur nd four basic kinds of noodle in Thailand. Hardly e·o y neigh d gaang aration of the or , ﬁ d kôw h b p er p ,

kôw s ouse đĕ

i d d an d r d ôm a re assic chi uid and can thus refer to sou e rice, is a common car The typical noodle-eater will add a teaspoonful of each one of these condiments to to condiments these one of each of will add a teaspoonful noodle-eater typical The In typically Thai fashion, these condiments o condiments these Thai fashion, typically In l d so ma o đ h p e is e with q sh sauce), sauce), sh l e ﬁ pl d d the noodle soup, except for the sugar, which in sweet-tooth Bangkok usually rates a usually rates Bangkok which in sweet-tooth the sugar, for except the noodle soup, adding recommend we seasonings, strong these to used Until you’re full tablespoon. go don’t you sure make to the way along the soup tasting them a small bit at a time, overboard. hotter – hot and sour, hot and salty, and just plain hot – and one to make it sweet. make – and one to plain hot and just and salty, hot sour, and – hot hotter (plain white sugar). (plain white containers o containers ( If you see a steel rack containing four lidded glass bowls or jars on your table, it’s proof proof it’s table, on your or jars bowls glass lidded four containing rack a steel see If you in serves you’re restaurant that the NOODLE MIXOLOGY NOODLE The thir Rice is customari There varieties are many of rice in Thai A You’ll You’ll Finally there’s o·ay ashing, a ld aste through a sieve into asta is ma aste, which is then steame ur ôw mong the wor ŏ ou or ice’ ice’ ice that is coo ries or sou common use of the noo groun of li gra starch an eaten m tasting an Curries & Sou In T often translated as the c m thread’) is p p g p y r r k p f covete ground business in smuggling out fresh su a The of fresh an north an fo It’s yellowish in colour and is sold only in fresh bundles. yellowish in colour and is sold only in fresh It’s a stone mortar an given the Thai

, - - - t s ’ cy m- ar pàt am, o g pi tôr ually y ôo·ay h . q s uitous a , g gl q acc a- þl fl ík ôm o ôm yam’ ash-fried r fl đ đ p d t c tan i alternatively , oo cantly cantly m . Lemon grass, st fi i ) tion is . á or p n ) sh. essentially a essentially aste fi nack f p s

aracter re beneath re ‘American fried ‘American who are world famous ﬁ are , . y category is h p ional of Thai dishes, and p pàt tai, pàt . An exce g r lime zest, shallots, (morning glory ) re ﬃ ts c ertoire are the various stir g aste i lâam, p

p tiny chillies tiny p g (

m o a àp ŏ y g rass, ka uet in a single wok egg rolls g ( q a roasted chilli s

. Fuelling the . Fuelling ôm ( ‘Muslim curry’, a now classic classic a now curry’, ‘Muslim

a p đ the most re ). ically based around seafood, meat or w g e· p ŏ rík kêe n ive þé p 741 741 are served at room temperature or just kôw pàt à·me·rí·gan, pàt kôw · p g m ds þò rík al, lemon yam a p g .

l t pàt pàk bûng fai daang ám ically eaten with rice and steamed or fresh vegeta , while some are Thai-Chinese such as hybrids, alan n ) p g icy and sour sou p gaang gaang ·mà n, má t·sà dishes seems endless. Many cling to their Chinese roots, dishes seems endless. Many , which is a common way to , which is a common way uitous eat. Mos s’, are, for the locals at least, among the most emblematic s’, t rovides the tang, while the abundant use of fresh chilli ) q h p p pàt aste and salt surface are fresh e uickly stir-fried with red curry sh f ﬁ y p oonful of q h introduced to Thailand by the Chinese

o . p s the zenith of this style of cooking is northeastern Thailand’s of cooking is northeasterns the zenith of this style Thailand’s lest dishes in the Thai culinary re p (see the boxed text, p t art of a meal, or on its own as p s p h they’re more home than restaurant food, p m àt), g (deep-frying in oil) is mainly reserved as for snacks such am tt -fried a hot and tangy ty ‘salad’ r (p đ p nother food celebrity that falls into the sou that falls into nother food celebrity

(deep-fried bananas) or sh, are sh, s etables juice r lime leaf and lime (literally ‘hot stir-fry’), meat typically in which the main ingredients, tt ﬁ Lime juice The li Tô A Perha ﬃ t g m· r

ith garlic and chilli ell as any a night of boozing.any les and herbs, they’re also amon enerates t dee ô or being able to stir-fry a whole ban rie ka chilli-based ‘di t b w p sô Nám Prík Althou Hot & TangyHot Sa Standing right alongside curries in terms of Thai-ness is the ubi yam, g ingredients. The cooked dish functionsslightly warmed by any e f such as the ubi w pèt or ( often velvet half a teas Stir-Fries & Deep-Frie The sim f include dried chilli, lic, shrim ve of all Thai dishes. Ty the famous Thai s sh sauce, chilli, tamarind). chilli, sh sauce, RECIPES ﬁ This culinary cross-pollination is only a recent example of the tendency of Thai cooks Thai cooks of the tendency of example recent is only a culinary cross-pollination This blend of Chinese cooking methods and ingredients (frying, rice noodles) with Thai with noodles) rice (frying, and ingredients methods cooking Chinese blend of ( vours to pick and choose from the variety of cuisines at their disposal. Other (signi Other at their disposal. cuisines of the variety from and choose pick to rice’. Taking the form of rice fried with ketchup, raisins and peas, sides of ham and deep- ham of sides peas, and raisins ketchup, fried with rice of the form Taking rice’. it as as revolting bit every well, the dish is, with a fried egg, and topped dogs, fried hot appar- rice fried American behind it: history an interesting there’s But at least sounds. in based were troops US of when thousands era, War Vietnam the to back ently dates ‘American the ubiquitous take decided to apparently cook local A Thailand. northeastern bread, white and dogs, hot with ham and/or fried eggs ABF, as known (also Breakfast’ with rice. elements frying the various by ‘Thai’ it and make with ketchup) eaten typically include examples palatable) more and the famous styles, cooking Middle Eastern Thai and blend of A popular dish at restaurants across Thailand is across dish at restaurants popular A (CON)FUSION CUISINE in the US, She in the US, of recipes that recipes of Simmers Simmers (www. of Thai of cooking. Maintained by a by Maintained cover the basics the basics cover is a good source source is a good shesimmers.com) shesimmers.com) Thai woman living Thai woman

740 EATING IN THAILAND STAPLES & SPECIALITIES EATING IN THAILAND REGIONAL VARIATIONS 741 Bangkok Bangkok by cnngo.com/ restaurants). following the following food scene in scene food ever-changing ever-changing BK’s restaurant restaurant BK’s CNNGo’s Bang- CNNGo’s section (http:// section dining section of of dining section kok pages (www. pages kok Keep up with the Keep bk.asia-city.com/ bangkok/eat) and bangkok/eat)

- - - known sh sauce e a a d ﬁ l ót k- p- ut y i co- . ﬀ hn, b ·r ( d ack and

ă í í b þà ·t · y a cooked are the à artment. b g d ),

p sàp rng w the d uenced by uenced e fl ŏ the papaya s on the dish, i, avours avours ru e ff d ly looking at ly looking iversity. Des iversity. ôm gà·tí fl K Desserts’, but Desserts’, đ d foreign coo ‘ p d đ o

u anie d include grated l l r – including the p n n astries are called Thai cuisine, an hn rich hn which includes dried shrimp and dried shrimp which includes kôw d p ă

d ă in Thailan y (watermelon), all of all (watermelon), ne m ﬁ h probably has its origins in Laos, but is origins in Laos, has its probably accom ŏ t of d p rng w am tai, re rng w ·n eciall ŏ đ ŏ d à p am, ings such as kidney beans k k k đ

is its regiona s in the fruit s in the r l y pp d court cuisine an sh sauce. In other ri In other sh sauce. er to form a solid, almost ta l . aang moh e of fi im. Sweet an sôm· l area, Thai cuisine is anything đ p erent form every time it crosses pp ll exce ff ean conce or carts an sh sauce and a typically shock-inducing amount of amount of shock-inducing typically and a sh sauce i uitous an fi d p d q d eld crabs, and a thick unpasteurised and a thick unpasteurised eld crabs, i rovince you’re in by sim in you’re rovince from white rice or sticky rice from white rice or sticky fi an y ( b erent forms in Thailand. p l l and ff ular ty oth roya y sma ) ay/Mus le coconut ice cream. At more traditional l l p b AM y o the ‘original’ version of the dish, employs heartier chunks of of chunks heartier employs the dish, of version ‘original’ the y ight Đ our ). aya l p ect of Thai foo fl b

p p astries introduced during the early Ayuthay astries introduced during ative a d l p uitous ven 743 743 eness. Other common fruit inc eness. Other ancakes’ slathered with sugar and condensed ancakes’ oint the oint q (p alone come in a dozen varieties alone come that are eaten p p p p i ) rice es a s ed in banana leaves, es ed in banana leaves, Thai-st , am low, b ue as k in í, đ or (literally ‘golden threads’) – probably in (literally ‘golden threads’) q sweet things’, are small, rich sweets that often boast sweet things’, pp is the most u is also primarily enjoyed by women, often as a snack rather than an as a snack rather often women, by primarily enjoyed is also p oes ‘ ·t g g uence er. ular ingredient for man in a re · ta d g fl ff p d d country, Thai country, gà . lá am l o · Sôm· ve đ avour. Prime ingredients fo Prime avour. p er y uni ioca, mung-bean starch, boiled taro and various fruits. ioca, mung-bean starch, banana á y in l fl m l ‘ from u l man d i . Both consist of sticky rice grains steamed with rice grains steamed . Both consist of sticky p ica on o ( y torng . Far more common in Bangkok is in Bangkok common more Far . m đ ld

p ar k ŏ · le l or át inside a banana-leaf wra robably robably g , f ) t takes two slightly di two t takes sôm· ) b p p

ai Thai foo . s p l l le s coconut milk , . Probably the most . Probably es, from Chinese to Ma m m two dishes few visitors have trouble with are dishes few visitors have two l , e entity, an e entity, pp ional Variations ô articu l m erent stages of ri erent stages þlah ráh een great and s, the ice cream is garnished with to ﬀ đ p ŏ , see the boxed text, uitous g mass i b nám prík ( , p q d entire meal – the intense spiciness provides a satisfying mental ‘full’. mental a satisfying provides spiciness – the intense meal entire peanuts, and is seasoned with bottled with bottled and is seasoned peanuts, made by always Almost cucumber or long beans. mango, with green be replaced can women, as THE CULT OF SÔM· THE CULT Thai as in known salad, papaya Green green of taking strips It is made by Thailand. in popular dishes the most one of today sugar, palm with garlic, mortar along or wood them in a clay and bruising unripe papaya lime juice, tomatoes, beans, green chillies. fresh salted eggplants, sliced papaya, Centra Although foreigners don’t seem to immediately take to most Thai take Although foreigners don’t seem to immediately Thai sweets the Euro similar to ·n w e inea á·môo·an hich translates as hich are so gg yolks are a acker sta acker ite having evo ite having rovincia ing mix of salt, sugar and ground chilli ing mix of salt, ite-sized items wra slightly salty slightly salty sing t ou could ou ra oconut he conce h or sticky rice, and is a brilliant snack on a sweltering Thai afternoonor sticky sticky rice, ta sticky has ing sty One p a p Re p kà b kô like ubi desserts and Portuguese e a c E Sweet English-language Thai section a menus often called have t w a (p w p Fruit a tro Being M y t conut milk sho milk sweets - - e y d n le d- a h p pl dl ﬂ a te . đ eo y rice. (fruit b articu p i k m· p usta are ominate . es in the ou aces that á l b l northern d d , . The tra es as a way with sugar s n ag attache icy, tart icy, d y, given the y, l ro d p bl b p ài d is stic rovides many an ent way to re- ent way lace to sam l n·lá·mái s b p ll p i ŏ is un oth sou p d l d rising ortant ro ers, their cuisine is mâ Thai cuisines. For p vegeta p an ica an l k l d many southern Thai many b ass, mixe ám . t want either, be sure t want either, ients such as coconut l d ’ n d

y rice, meat, in ing an e at the same p t s of years. S s an k 304 ay im ll b d bl p pl not sur ity ara ity are an exce a ominant car iciest of Thailand’s regional iciest of Thailand’s in a g l l d d d p southern Thai stic d e in Thai l d d re of regiona e. Mos s l text, an p -qua bl d d d ty, an ty, -frying l , is avai an s serve p ata icative of what the ethnic Tai icative of what the ethnic Tai l i oxe d l ing sty aroun y every corner of the country d after curing. b a s such as gri ee goo e ee) followed with k d ll ﬀ d p d d d e robably Thailand’s sweetest cuisine robably Thailand’s

e ow/orange hue, an ow/orange ﬀ . p d y in ase ll l atter of fresh her atter s, if not thousan coo dd b l e d e very sa lays a large role. Turmeric a large role. Turmeric lays pl k a i derives its characteristic orange-red colour b importe p re l d ii so ers, an l d over Thai d meats k y a ll so d b s in virtua ta l (black co

see ing metho an ll h ecomes un rin l d d k m y the most seasona a b d avours an avours y areas of northern an fl ing. A ear a bl itchen, in which the ll oca k Ch is most l a k sh an sh e sta anie ishes, which often feature ingre ee fi d b pp ff p e coo ishes with a ye d pl scure regiona . e. This of co type d ro ) pl b oth ee. s a p e coo ff dl tamarin b l k es. It can a e, an d ig co l l itter/hot itter/hot gah·faa dam b sim co is in the hi Thai

rin l b l tering system is nothing more than a narrow c han d d d l d l tea, , fy e in sim

ﬁ ks k k een eating for hun

bl l & Fruit ee, Tea Drink b freshwater eci s are accom or ac ing sty a ing sty ﬀ l l l p rate after water k k p tivate lk, Fruit Fruit Southern Thai cooking is arguably the s Northeastern Thai food is undoubtedly Thailand’s most rustic regional Thai Northeastern food is undoubtedly Thailand’s The most o B rin d l without sugar ar have have to s Muslim-Thai cooking, which is Muslim-Thai mi serve rea and sweetened milk – if you don with condensed Because many northeasternBecause many Thais are migratory wor mea northern Thai kitchen. Given the north’s elevation and climate northern Thai the north’s kitchen. Given itiona to a stee ( from groun D Co Thais are l vours an in centra coo avai more on northern cuisine, the see Thai foo cu of countering their heat. Thailand’s south is also a good of countering their heat. Thailand’s northern-sty south’s coastline, seafood south’s hy the northeastern southern Thai coo ‘jelly beer’, beer that has been semi-frozen until it reaches a deliciously slushy a deliciously slushy until it reaches been semi-frozen beer that has beer’, ‘jelly First, despite all the alleged accolades displayed on most bottles, Thai beer does does beer Thai bottles, on most displayed accolades all the alleged despite First, long too Thailand been in sign you’ve obvious a painfully it’s warning: a brief However, Thailand. austinbush graphed and graphed photography. We relish the look of horror on the faces of Thailand newbies when the waitress casu- when the waitress Thailand newbies of on the faces horror look of the relish We blas- rule this supposed you Before their pilsners. into ice of cubes several ally plunks Thais actually prefer and the we why reasons few a are there completely, out phemy the rocks. our beer on as drunk as cold is best and in the world bouquet sophisticated the most possess not extremely is often Thailand in the weather noticed, already haven’t if you Also, possible. And lastly, at maximum chill. beer maintain your to sense it makes reason another hot, pre- this, dilute to helps and the ice in alcohol high quite generally are brews domestic day. the next Beer Chang hangovers infamous those and one of dehydration venting called something Thailand serve in places some the extreme, to theories these Taking wún, beea Hoegaarden. draught in your put ice if you A THAI PILSNER PRIMER consistency. and refreshing chapter, www. chapter, and provincial and provincial maintained by by maintained Written, Written, photo- com/category/ food and dining food foodblog details details foodblog in both Bangkok in both Bangkok the author of this the author of

742 EATING IN THAILAND DRINKS EATING IN THAILAND WHERE TO EAT & DRINK 743

Thailand. ovos to Thai-style Thai-style to by Chawadee Chawadee by street food in food street Nualkhair, also also Nualkhair, a general intro- is an illustrated is an illustrated informal dining. informal ing and ordering ing and ordering functions well as functions well Bangkok’s Top 50 Top Bangkok’s by Kenny Yee and and Yee Kenny by Thai Hawker Food Thai Hawker Catherine Gordon Catherine Gordon duction and guide duction and guide guide to recognis- guide to Street Food Stalls, Food Street

- - - a p p- it l d . ular ly be p uality. p o 742 742 q omestic p , an ordable p d ff d e in he l rst time in rst reaching the shores of of the shores reaching rst an of bacteri fi fi l (‘egg threads’) and (‘egg threads’) y uent text, ic ro q l d from our o Heineken, Asahi, Heineken, g y b ( without the peanuts, or papaya or papaya without the peanuts, oxe in rst-time visitors to osing yourself to an b fi g p riority, Thais often u riority, t right in. a bunlike snack baked over coals. over snack baked a bunlike fios de ovos fios pàt tai pàt fi . le hours. You can avoid can le hours. You nish it, it will sim nish it, p , ran fi p d . ’s ice. If it’s ice. If it’s ’s an ared to order, and only drink ared to order, l y p eer, see the eer, eratures re b m fa·ràng, p p ar and salt and a whole lot of ice. lot a whole and salt ar and ŏ n-licensed labels n-licensed labels g g ut it serves a meta out everywhere in Thai b b our drinks with it for years and have tem kà·n their l t, g l k c discomfort c eer in Thai fi ? ica nd b fi rin p to forei of the countr eci d ) y p e just a rise that the locals do much of their eating out s of Drink bl p d a , Leo & l g s lash of coke. On a night out, buying a whole bottle lash of coke. ran t ending money a becomes ject to the sa e with tro e with p b i p b p

l . r in mind that you are that you’re ex you’re in mind that you are that ce whisky and rum are favourites of the working class, favourites and rum are ce whisky is avai s, so it’s virtually a hard inevitable that your body will have s, so it’s i pi p orted whiskies. These are usually drunk with lots of ice, g. d g ha, Chan p g y to co erent cuisine new and a famil and unfamiliar c r ﬀ i d t foo o s . And in the area surrounding Bangkok’s Church of Santa Cruz, a former Portu- a former Cruz, Santa of Church Bangkok’s surrounding And in the area . Sin d di b ( y are served are su of a touch with ) me Chillies in particular seem to have struck a chord with Thais, and are thought to have have thought to and are Thais, with a chord struck have to seem in particular Chillies Thai kitch- the to crucial ingredients some introduce only did the Portuguese And not are o t at the bar until your next visit. p rst arrived in Ayuthaya via the Portuguese around 1550. Before their arrival, the natives the natives their arrival, Before 1550. around via the Portuguese Ayuthaya in arrived rst MUITO OBRIGADO MUITO Thai curry without the chillies, imagine a to Try salad without the papaya. Many of the ingredients used on a daily basis by Thais are Thais are by on a daily basis used the ingredients of Many without the papaya. salad the early During and missionaries. traders European of courtesy introductions recent were explorers and Portuguese while Spanish century, 16th ﬁ and pepper. ginger such as and roots herbs bitter-hot from their heat got The sweets. of in the area particularly techniques, enduring cooking some but also en, direct are Thai markets at many see you treats duck egg and syrup-based bright-yellow as known desserts Portuguese of descendants Southeast Asia, there was also subsequent expansion and discovery in the Americas. Americas. in the and discovery expansion subsequent also was there Asia, Southeast from coming products new the exciting seize quick to were in particular The Portuguese such introduced having likely thus most them in the East, and market World the New papa- chillies, cabbage, lettuce, corn, potatoes, as tomatoes, staples Asian modern-day and tobacco. peanuts potatoes, sweet pumpkins, pineapples, guavas, yas, moles still can you enclave, guese set that might set tummy you back a cou And the ice? We’ve been lacin We’ve And the ice? On the good side, in most cases this will mean little more than an cases this will mean little On the good side, in most D an I Drink the Ice p p rands nd other bu et s to trace it back to any ntirel estaurants/vendors where dishes are estaurants/vendors han beer. Once s han beer. ime adjustin uices Many foreigners o foreigners Many For more on how the Thais more For Thailand, kee Where to Eat Pre you’ll this regard, as a visitor, side the home. In ing bottled water ing bottled y t r e a C concerns we hear from Among the most common t grade to im Thailand safet is about the b ing the ing the Beer & S There are severa j is the norm in most of Thailand.is the norm in most of If you don’t shouldn’t come as a sur soda water and a s struggling they’re family gatherings as students and a more u ke more serious setbacks, at least initially, by trying to fre more serious setbacks, at least initially, San Miguel) – all largely indistinguishable in terms of taste and largely indistinguishable – all San Miguel)

- t e e g a l le d- g es, in sh p fi d dl laces p ce. In ffi hists in Chinese et an et ing as an ahm sàn d dd k that ran ular ular đ ess for one t mean that and several l d pp ’ p sh, noo sh, ) is very inex fi o

, which sells , which sells Chinese-sty d eak Thai. hn e of town with an p d l d p unchtime, mi unchtime, 121 ă , Phu p) l are any dish youare any k rie ddl p e an lay of raw ingredi- of raw lay o hn mang·sà·wí·rá d l k p ă re own at the o own at p n Thai ee an d i ﬀ grilled over hot in a strict interpreta- ors. At ors. At ie no meat, poultry, ie no meat, poultry, y Chinese Bu d d áhn ah·h ( et-sty co b r s ex-Governor Chamlong t to ﬀ ’ hn)

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p s in Bang k ll ráhn ah·h ráhn

d ll t rate or

re ﬁ b es to scarf p d (gài bâhn) bâhn) (gài s se

e rice-and-curry sho l ll d dl ( ar eration if you can’t s see the boxed text, p

e ( airs. Lunchtime is the right time to airs. Lunchtime is the d p g ráhn ah·h ráhn ﬀ ). ( , ce

is serve pp l a s s sta d l nonpro g street sta veganism roote l d d ets often set up in the mi read trend in Thailand, of the but many ular by Bangkok cult o cult k usy commuter corri usy commuter p p ox of noo ﬃ b ôw gaan (roast chilli ‘dip’ and deep-fried pork ‘dip’ chilli (roast lastic chair at yetlastic for a sim another stall o b k o taurant p p lies, the cooks attem s ŏ n in Bangkok in Bangkok e istricts of most Thai towns go meat p Vegans ong ) r ishes. The generic more l

s to forma d , áh d p a & r can oftendis be recognised by a e p t a wides a foam a foam d ’ p) e, tomatoes, cho s where the foo kâab m kâab sto l p l a d (‘boat noodles’) Rice noodles served with a dark, u k usiness k ring u rema b e Vegetarian Festiva e Vegetarian of course and and This Vietnamese dish of balls of pork served with rice rice with served pork of balls of dish Vietnamese This p ring onions – for a stan ic , p h e foo towns, night mar towns, night p p capita This city’s namesake fried chicken is marinated in a dried- eat at the ll l pl This odd but delicious Mon dish of chilled fragrant rice d Marinated free-range chicken chicken free-range Marinated ng t inner mint. i e·o reu·a e·o reu·a er, many restaurants an many er, en-air marketsen-air most the among are stalls food and d ant, s Deep-fried sticky rice cakes drizzled with palm sugar are a a are sugar palm with drizzled cakes rice sticky Deep-fried b p đĕ Roast pig, skin and all, typically eaten as part of a dim sum sh sauce, dairy or egg products pl ﬁ ection of Dur O There are Thais are monogamous carnivores; there are, however, home-grown Thais however, are monogamous carnivores; there are, l aan cto oughnuts s oughnuts ractices of vegetarianism an ishes. As the name im oint an ll nts – Chinese gg an name, a slightly more di an name, a slightly more ŧ food-to-order sho vegetarian restaurants am neu·ang most sma stir-fry, or stir-fry, or after- where Thais eat. In the mornin the Thaiswhere In eat. provincia ( 100% vegan pensive. Dishes are almost always p d a might grab eaters day tourist-oriented restaurants cater to vegetarians.tourist-oriented restaurants That doesn a cluster of vendors, metala cluster of sho and chairs, and some tables O p ( e e d c Vegetarians isn Vegetarianism the Chinese Srimuang. there are severa Now a se from sim tion of Buddhism made tion of Buddhism made kôw châa kôw o·ay o·ay ă nám prík nùm : gài yâhng gài ŏ n : : g : kôw o yâhng : : ŏ gài tôrt hàht yài tôrt gài : m : dishes. c dish that’s unavailable (or at least not as tasty) outside the city limits. To help you help you To limits. city the outside as tasty) not at least (or unavailable c dish that’s ﬁ Phetchaburi Trang Lampang Khai Nong Hat Yai Hat Kaen Khon Chiang Mai Ayuthaya

helpful step- helpful master.com), master.com), that illustrate that illustrate » » » » » » » » land, contains contains land, Thailand’s cuisine is intensely regional and virtually every town is associated with a spe- is associated town and virtually every regional cuisine is intensely Thailand’s ci specialities: regional ubiquitous the more of a few listed we’ve a local, like look (and eat) TASTY TRAVEL brunch, is a speciality of this southern town. southern this of speciality a is brunch, spice mixture, which gives it a distinctive red hue. popular treat in this northern town. town. Thai central this in best be to said is sides sweet/savoury with served paper wrappers and a basket of herbs has found a home in northeastern Thailand. crackling) Available at virtually every market in the city, the two dishes go wonder- fully together, ideally accompanied by par-boiled veggies and sticky rice. coals – a northeastern speciality said to be best in this town. this in best be to said speciality northeastern a – coals intense spice-laden broth. variety of Thai of variety by-step by-step photos (www.thaifood- the making of a the making of maintained by a a by maintained resident of Thai- of resident longtime foreign longtime foreign Thai Food Master Master Food Thai

744 EATING IN THAILAND VEGETARIANS & VEGANS EATING IN THAILAND HABITS & CUSTOMS 745 nd ﬁ

- - - - f s y a k d d l n l ă of ate l l ater l with

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egan setting their egan setting it sti ll b d s are a (for men) or l avours an avours (Westerners) ask for (Westerners) s the Thai way, use s the Thai way, fl r l g ance coo e a sing l from or frie k . a d d b roducts – in other words, es l p fa·ràng ance of ngers, an ngers, l e foo portion of rice ru fi m gin jair y feature a vegetarian section e their counterparts in man l a d d ŏ k ll your’ portions at once will look es restaurant proprietors. Chop b e i ‘ royal’ setting, and it wasn’t long l p l ie ‘ k l y 1900s, Thais l s. When -soa . Un k d k y puzz e it over a portion of your rice. The for . ect a l ecame the norm in Bang ff dl b y your own, to ta a ing great care to l l om. To use these too om. To ess common, venues for vegetarianess common, venues for mea

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d for eating Chinese-sty atter, put no more than one spoonfu atter, , a soup, ta l l ustom d ered chopsticks, don’t ask for them. Thai food is eaten d ing ﬀ street food is good. In fact, in our research, we’ve found that the best that the best found we’ve in our research, In fact, is good. food street e them. er the -spoon k C s d I’m vegetarian’ in Thai is vegetarian’ I’m d

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u k d e most of Thai cu l d l places to eat are anything but mobile, but rather are the long-standing, family-owned family-owned the long-standing, are but rather but mobile, anything are eat to places at such The cooks shophouses. Sino-Portuguese in aged found typically restaurants several for dishes, of repertoire or limited dish, the same serving been likely have places on than slightly more cost may The food doing. what they’re know and really decades, the mention to not and hygienic, comfortable more is usually but the setting the street, English- have rarely While such restaurants history. of a piece eating that you’re fact and p785 turn to If that fails, or dish. a picture usually point to can you menus, language Thai. your practise as well. restaurants old-school try a few to but be sure gushing references to the glories of the country’s street food. While much of the food food the much of While food. street the country’s of the glories to references gushing the isn’t it certainly tasty, is indeed very stalls and streetside mobile carts from sold that case Read any food magazine article about eating in Thailand, and you will inevitably will inevitably and you Thailand, in eating article about magazine food any Read BEYOND THE STREET STALL o If you’re not o If you’re W The Origina d estern countries k ith for efore for n n t n t a time. Heaping your plate with all t a time. Heaping hopstic hopstic egions of the ables with fork and spoon to a ant factor in a Thai mea ota oo rom a common p ood’, which includes no eggs and no dairy ood’, family-style’, that is from common serving and the plates appear platters, family-style’, spoon sprea serving spoon, or a is then use inc c W k w c stic ing in a f r t b t vegeta a f a Li ma ‘ gin jair f t Habits month. Other easy, though month. Other easy, o in whatever or gree Tra 746

The Sex Industry in Thailand Thailand has had a long and complex relationship with prostitution that persists today. It is also an international sex-tourism destination, a desig- nation that began around the time of the Vietnam War. The industry targeted to foreigners is very visible with red-light districts in Bangkok, Phuket and Pattaya, but there is also a more clandestine domestic sex industry and myriad informal channels of sex-for-hire. Prostitution is technically illegal in Thailand. However, laws against prostitution are often ambiguous and unenforced, and economic motivations provide a steady supply of workers. Some analysts argue that the high demand for sexual services in Thailand means that there is litle likelihood of the industry being curtailed; however, limiting abu- sive practices within the industry is the goal of activists and government agencies. Created by a sex-workers’ It is diffi cult to determine the number of sex workers in Thailand, the advocacy group, demographics of the industry or its economic strength. This is because This is Us: there are many indirect forms of prostitution, because the illegality of EMPOWER Foun- the industry makes research diffi cult, and because diff erent organisa- dation National tions use diff erent approaches to collect data. In 2003 measures to le- Museum (%0 2526 8311; 57/60 galise prostitution cited the Thai sex industry as being worth $US4.3 Th Tiwanon, billion (about 3% of GDP), employing roughly 200,000 sex workers. A Nonthaburi; open study conducted in the same year by Thailand’s Chulalongkorn Univer- weekdays) leads sity estimated 2.8 million sex workers, of which 1.98 million were adult visitors through women, 20,000 were adult men and 800,000 were children, defi ned as the history and working condi- any person under the age of 18. tions of sex workers in Thailand. History & Cultural Attitudes Prostitution has been widespread in Thailand since long before the country gained a reputation among international sex tourists. Through- out Thai history the practice was accepted and common among many sectors of the society, though it has not always been respected by the society as a whole. Due to international pressure from the United Nations, prostitution was declared illegal in 1960, though entertainment places (go-go bars, beer bars, massage parlours, karaoke bars and bath houses) are governed by a separate law passed in 1966. These establishments are licensed and can legally provide nonsexual services (such as dancing, massage, a drinking buddy); sexual services occur through these venues but they are not technically the businesses’ primary purpose. With the arrival of the US military forces in Southeast Asia during the Vietnam War era, enterprising businesspeople adapted the existing framework to suit foreigners, in turn creating an international sex- tourism industry that persists today. THE SEX INDUSTRY IN THAILAND ECONOMIC MOTIVATIONS 747

l - - - - - a a d d e ies l ll tax not i l that wag d k ’ ought d b nancial success ’ fi y Kritay ustry are y , uns b d ll l ers ha her saying, ucation an k h bribes and d . ishments are ishments d ica g ort found that rehensive data p bl home to rura p ressure on their e with sai p k e a mean income k p Thailand, to rec ort their fami d o g ac ay an informa ay is one of the high is one of the s ty egin to mount. The p ut b pp p k b ld p vance e income generator. It generator. income d ts uivalent of a mid-level to return home after d b q s 1993 re d rohibitions is the lawless ers ma ’ e k p d , bigger houses and motor ) y, most sex wor y, anisation, a United Nations a United anisation, d nown to g layed their daughters layed ercentage of sex workers ages to su ective response to the AIDS epidemic through epidemic through AIDS the to response ective , the e k p p . The most com ff ll ) ) that sexwor through a ice. the majority the majority l education, and they have they education, and have d ucement for the next generation of d ) to engage in sex work een d d ) ar manager we s ar manager orts have declined and cultural attitudes towards sex sex towards attitudes cultural declined and have orts ut her mother chastise n b s ff fi rostitution b that she trie b e a strong incentive for rura e a strong incentive for er day p uire that sex wor low n d , most women in the sex, most women in ( d p q d d o ers comes from a 1993 surveyers comes from a 1993 er month were sent k sai rostitutes when p of the entertainment of the esta rovi d p d p ies have ies have es. One l as free in groun or Organisation, however, estimates a Thai sex or Organisation, however, b US$18 US$18 d k uence of b ( ort foun ri . q l tivati p endents or debts ac b to their home vi osition ac p 6100B b ecome La fami k p l l er in Pattaya er in Pattaya acte b d k reasons: many reasons: many d ice ac l l Mo b , a o

. TVs and washing machines TVs

b ( p d . The re c er l Conditions y, rura y, k er month be it de that one-thir that ren to u ll ( p g d k high schoo ld with the government an the government with nancia mi ustry an ﬁ d d rostitution as an economic sector economic as an rostitution an ers. ota and to a lesser extent, men d salary at US$9 a day, or the average wage of a Thai service or the average salary a day, at US$9 environment it creates for women who enter the industry. Sex it creates for women who enter the industry. environment . o ’ ( ess of their k p d g ecomes the domain of criminal networks that are often that are ecomes the domain of criminal networks involved ete n dl b e chi y connections. At the time of her stu l aying jobs for their level of aying l pl servant jo s with many in Thai society, a large in Thais with many society, nec l p ustry wor lence an aggressive condom-use campaign in the 1990s. Infection rates of female sex workers workers sex female of rates Infection in the 1990s. campaign condom-use an aggressive workers sex doubled among informal recently have but rates 2007 5% by declined to a of is on the verge that the country warn Analysts and freelancers). prostitutes (street e as public education resurgence Thailand was lauded for its rapid and e rapid its lauded for Thailand was HIV/AIDS drug intravenous HIV/AIDS, people living with 610,000 Of the country’s changed. have 50% in 2007). portion (30% to up the largest make users The Internationa A A These economic factors In 1998 the International Labour Or the International 1998 In ency, advised Southeast Asian advised Southeast includin countries, ency, arents, siblings and children). Khun Kritaya d o orkin ork omen orkers urable goods etween an 1800B ar manager we interviewe s are remitte st ycles or automobiles. Their wealth dis ommunities. The remittance-receiving househo ommunities. The remittance-receiving ivi om egistere hey pay 5000B per month to the po 5000B per month hey pay here for ami ema Everyone can do this, so can you.’ can do this, so can you.’ Everyone on the economics of sex wor in the in Archavanit is estimate of 17,000B of 17,000B in other illicit activities and circumvent the laws throu in other illicit activities and circumvent the laws vi stint as a sex wor The unintended conse w w ‘ Workin f b b c d c w e (p w in c f c t e t Eco Regar ognise ognise r ag sex wor obligations in the form of in the form

. . ------t ) ) d d d ’ R ld is oi of in- or- ing l orn ( re d loy ros d b aces d

b d p p u d orting pl l p ing in the cking in orting the g ffi , there are k cking y re p ) e, inc ffi ing. b as not meet etermine the k ations of pl l d d p. ouring an u ers: there is no there ers: ar at the en rostitution an c a total of 4900 eo b ffi k ( p b an p th insurance an th insurance Pattaya an Pattaya le tra p l uota. EMPOWE or re l o

) d p cking q p ﬃ d ckin rostitution, though orn University, the orn University, y Kritaya Archwan y Kritaya e ishment owners an ﬃ o not eo p k b k hea d p volved. Instead, these volved. Instead, 300 eave eave bl s, such as EMPOWER, ress the issue of chi Thai ationshi

. l 1 d l p r c d arge ong ﬃ l in e rostitutes wor l % dd gangs. -sex tourism our, our, re l ( working girls’) as em working girls’) d a ll p ‘ ne a worker if she doesn if she a worker ne b l ﬁ p ld e ers at entertainment a under the old law only under the old law ve l b k . gures . ( l

ender’s nationality. ender’s fi onsore in their own country for such a to payect, have these women im . Children of these fractured ff l ff ) ractice going to that is always chi p d p ld out tra p p b rostitution is not the answer, be rostitution is not the answer, hts of other wor of other hts aw to a aw ing is a crime against humanity wor l p g , Chiang Mai an , Chiang Mai k crimina ll l or coercion for purposes of exp k owe money to the t meetthe drink d estination fo c o ’ oyee-s ll ffi ata a d ren invo k eve Burmese immigrants, ethnic hill-tribe ing to Chu to sto

ut these d rotections l pl ( es of work artment Human Tra rosecute revention of human tra ld d b d Mae Sot have Sot have Mae p rostitution the ri the isguise a p lp p e e the women to orting, transferring, har to customers, esta p p egging,often which is an entryway into d p le d d . & p d e bl bl ow- b ro-sex worker grou ro-sex worker e p uctions. In e uctions. In d ers wi l b p d d ia a reform k l s of eo e an force d uit an e as as high as 800,000 such as the Coalition Against Tra such as the Coalition Against l d nes p d recognise a or k fi ( d b ff s to ll uired vacation, sick leave or break time; no de- time; no or break leave vacation, sick uired e. Accor ar l that there were 100,000 to 200,000 foreign- erent ty erent orts loitative for the women in loitative for the women q End Child Prostitution & Tra End Child Prostitution ff d d Many countries also have extraterritorial legisla countries also have Many ff bl ( p ) ers can he the tain re one. ll passe ia l d b d overished rural Thais d y through securityor em ers wi in Thai p l ll from Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia and China. According from Myanmar, k d ned into two-tiers: 15 to 18 years old and under 15 ned into two-tiers: so a con ) an argue that legalising fi ren may ren may l l . ) eing t to o ld Nations, human tra Nations, de e trave l time are assigne b ( l centres such as Bang d

ers are not a are not ers ress that there were, 16,423 non-Thai non-Thai that there were, 16,423 bl ows nationa is a b k awma ies estimate k d d l ll d cu jai ut a 1997 report on foreign chi ves recruiting, trans d ﬃ l that many sex that many wor d i b y 30,000 to 40,000 chi re an onsi l d l l d rostitutes an arents involved in child arents involved an jo p a er of chi s focus how to ena on p p ies often turn to street b ren in the Thai wor g b , foun p l icious behaviour on a dedicated hotline icious behaviour ther commentators r hai l e e that e invo t is n 1996 Thai p l e of wor ld u b T I U I O Bars can set Bars can rules that own punitive their Through lobbying e Sexwor Res p d hild Prostitution p k er towns such as Mae Sai an er towns such as Mae uctions for socia laced and marginalised rostitution usua rostitution e dangerous and ex grou to individual directly to the embassy of the o Other stu chi fami Fines an current Women; CATW Women; ho the month through these the month through crimes committe reporte country under the age of 18 and that 30% were children it ceiving a person through force, frau State De 2007 the US tation. In ing the minimum stan tion that a d p p According to ECPAT According to ECPAT p even titutes were culpable. ees subject and safety to labour legitimise a cause such a move would b di into their way make C d no cluding children ty minors, sus num members and im minimum wage; no re wage; no minimum smile enough, arrives late or doesn smile enough, to the Unite an (including dish washers and cooks as well as washers and cooks as (including dish estimates are unre children. that works that works tion include organization organization (CATW; www. (CATW; The Coalition The Coalition org) is a non- org) ing in Women Women ing in Organisations Organisations governmental governmental Prostitution & Prostitution child prostitu- childwise.net). working across across working borders to stop stop to borders Against Traffick- Against tion and traffick- Trafficking; www. Trafficking; combat prostitu- combat Child Wise Child Wise (www. internationally to to internationally ECPAT (End Child (End ECPAT ecpat.net) and its its and ecpat.net) ing in women and ing in women Australian affiliate affiliate Australian catwinternational.

748 THE SEX INDUSTRY IN THAILAND CHILD PROSTITUTION & HUMAN TRAFFICKING 749

Environment & Wildlife Thailand spans a distance of 1650km from its northern tip to its southern tail, a distance that encompasses 16 latitudinal degrees and a variety of ecological zones, making it one of the most environmentally diverse countries in Southeast Asia. Environ- mental The Land Stats Thailand’s odd shape is often likened to the head of an elephant with » Thailand the shaftt of the trunk being the Malay peninsula and the head being encompasses the northern mountains. Starting at the crown of the country, north- 514,000 sq km, equal to the size ern Thailand is dominated by the Dawna-Tenasserim mountain range, of France. a southeast-trending extension of the Himalayan mountains. Dropping » Bangkok sits into the central region, the topography mellows into rice-producing at N14° latitude, plains fed by rivers that are as revered as the national monarchy. Thai- level with Madras, land’s most exalted river is Chao Phraya, which is formed by the north- Manila, Guate- ern tributaries of Ping, Wang, Yom and Nan – a lineage as notable as any mala City and aristocrat’s. The country’s early kingdoms emerged around Chao Phraya Khartoum. basin, still the seat of the monarchy today. The river delta is in cultivation for most of the year. Tracing the contours of Thailand’s northern and northeastern border is another celebrated river: Mekong. As the artery of Southeast Asia, Mekong both physically separates and culturally fuses Thailand with its neighbours. It is a workhorse river that has been dammed for hydroelec- tric power and swells and contracts based on the seasonal rains. In the dry season, riverside farmers plant vegetables in the muddy fl oodplain, harvesting their crops before the river reclaims its territory. The landscape of Thailand’s northeastern border is occupied by the arid Khorat Plateau rising some 300m above the central plain. This is a hardscrabble land where the rains are meagre, the soil is anaemic and the red dust stains as stubbornly as the betel nut chewed by the ageing grandmothers. The kingdom’s eastern rivers dump their waters into the Gulf of Thai- land, a shallow basin off the neighbouring South China Sea. The warm, gentle gulf is an ideal cultivation ground for coral reefs. On the other side of its long slender ‘trunk’ is the Andaman Sea, a splendid tropical setting of stunning blue waters and dramatic limestone islands. Onshore, the peninsula is dominated by some fi nal remaining stands of rainforest and ever-expanding rubber and palm-oil plantations. Flora & Fauna In the northern half of Thailand, most indigenous species are classi- fi ed zoologically as Indo-Chinese, referring to fauna originating from mainland Asia, while that of the south is generally Sundaic, typical of

------s y k ’ d d l- so er. l ue, sh, p re- irds fi q ate ut is My ages, l b d Par b d l ll ir – to that is ing co ons. A p it vi arks are f region vi d k l an l arrot p p . bb d p so an inter so an izar l nities such ra, oachers con an l ecies such as ffi l ellers of tour b Trang, Trang, p hant faces ex rates. You can rates. You p sh, p ecies, monkeys d are popu fi p , b l p d ro ecies of maca atches or unused to 6m in length, p , once thought ex- p p aic s ulation of wild el t endangered. The p an hant, once roame ) ega l ayan a ayan ren in rura ecies of gi d p house l p ll ills. Marshland ills. Marshland os an Asiatic goat-ante tuna. You might a tuna. You p o e d ld ( b l d p . ve s ve er waters are home to fi m p ets aroun s . e Sun etween Thai irite k ython, which can reach a e chi cult to obtain an accurate l er and Russell’s er and Russell’s erfect living conditions for b ffi p it p in an d tiny inverte tiny ing is i with over a thousan with p oc l p , mouse deer and ta , ecies of coral, and the reefs s three s Java. There is a Java. ing south to the gu ing south d ) roximately 10% of the world roximately 10% arks and sanctuaries include p so lants and animals from both animals lants and p d , serow d ear Hima d

d pp p l a s ) ife p ll pp an dl sh. Dee ongsi l fi l tra ir es: the common co forests of Khao Yai Nationa forests of Khao Yai is home to ey an ey d a b k d d are al wildlife trade k d exten oaching. The s s hins. d p region, whi an p ecies, a l rovide the l ecies include two common varieties –ecies include two ea jîng·jòk, p sna p s p d wild cattle s ( barking deer . . u er, Malayan vi Malayan er, ( ver the hinter o p eaf-mon o animal l lk m sh and lion s y rich in y rich sh (the 10mm-long goby) and the largest (the s, manta rays, mar s, manta rays, fi l lus reef denizens such as clown fi o u migrants with c migrants with k eys. Thai er p sh, crustaceans an er cousin to the African e o fi ar d k ll , l ll mountains of northern mountains Thai r the ) l rovides habitat for habitat for rovides also called manatee or sea cow o ( p , banteng f ) s s of the centra ix ven thrushes. The ari mon t fam a, shar s d , survives in a few sma t tigers sta d d ons were once raise

. o d os s many lizard s s many aysia, Sumatra, Borneo an Borneo Sumatra, aysia, s Thailand climate of southern to the wetter ock s ’ ecies of . ld ulation centres an l p s smallest ﬂ t that ’ sh, trigger l p bb erts 200 to 300 wild tigers remain in estimate that around ﬁ p s an ugong p m l p though tiger hunting an o d s l ha is particu gi re ecies found in the kingdom’s ecies found in the kingdom’s . ues can be found living in small wooded ues can be found living p s largest snake is the reticulateds largest snake hant, a sma ’ d d o d p arracu otted on ceilings and walls chasing after bugs. The black jun otted q y to s p ive wi l . A b a reclusive and somewhat homely gecko heard in the earl a reclusive and somewhat homely gecko ar Ma p s of s , l e s e an an kill the cat d ng 10m l ’s Pitta Pitta ’s Prachuap Khiri Khan Prachuap d l l ecies of the sma u k o y l Indian bison Indian i d er, er, p l ( e rare re les in an , sambar deer, muntjac muntjac , sambar deer,

p l ppi oats. ) species. The coo h d ·gaa p ycatchers an e an e o b ﬂ d Thailand’ Rec T Thai The country Besides abundant birdlife, visitors to the country’s national visitors to the country’s Besides abundant birdlife, Other s Thai The oceans are home to hundreds of s

hants in Thailand is estimated at about 1000 uthern f p h si refer the wet úk ir an y montane species p

nd the world ong-arme wrasse, angel Thai name a few w Although the relatively rare king cobra can reach u Although the relatively rare king cobra can reach zones startingzones Thani in Uthai an tem in northeastern for horn Thailandare a favourite encounter turtles, whales and dol usually s as four s grou corded resident and migrating s corded resident ist e anmar but in ever-decreasing numbers. It is di tinue t the forests of Indochina in great herds. But the wild ele the forests of Indochina tinction loss and due to habitat đ evening coughing its name; and in some of the lives a miniature dinosaur, which looks like gle monitor, so ﬁ lo vi bra, banded krait, green though they habitat loss as other native s face the same l b b p peninsu overla esting 18m-long whale shark aroun gaur A hun tinct in Thai sometimes survive in varying of domestication with humans. The states most the nation Gurne increasingly threatened by habitat loss and the lethal created by these tiny creatures creatures created by these tiny and maca count but ex

RIVER MEKONG MEKONG Wild Wild Parks and shelters and shelters species, such species, as the Khorat as the Khorat to catch prey. catch to National River in terms in terms River of biodiversity biodiversity of Kuiburi National Kaeng Krachan, Western endangered and endangered newly discovered discovered newly which uses fangs fangs which uses rivals the Amazon Amazon the rivals The Mekong River River The Mekong big-mouthed frog, frog, big-mouthed

» » » Park, Prachuap Prachuap Park, Khiri Khan Province Phetchaburi Phetchaburi Province Complex, Forest Kanchanaburi Province

750 ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE FLORA & FAUNA ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES 751 and lotus. Mai, shelters shelters Mai, Queen Queen Sirikit a beautiful col- a beautiful local and native native and local Botanic Garden, Garden, Botanic lection of orchids orchids lection of outside of Chiang of outside species, including including species,

. ------a p d d e. w u ky og p pl l tiva o

rise l l set es u since p eo p imite d k ogging d p l l

. ll d . The most . owe re ) l ing to roc y in d l l uri home for cial retirement and animal sh ffi b fi ecies: small salt es in Surat Thani commercia the rainy season the rainy near Surat Thani p er year ower that reaches d d g k fl i p is one of the most is one of the l oss has s l k s . others c ared to 70% some 50 d ll Par urin p l ora. There 1100 are over d fl Kanchana sti as rainforests with a fe as rainforests d d d er year forest cover now ma lant found in some southern lant found in ush lentiful and distributed evenlentiful and l l p e p fi p The country's o The country's

more than a hun anisation an d ation, the Thai cre government Nationa d ut it now exists on b d k e b assi arts of the country are com l ll e of this century. In 1989 a In e of this century. isastrous mu p ryseason. Tea i arming, forest l lant with a huge d d k uisite native egra

p areas, starting in the 1970s, an ddl q in trees an d d out 0.4% out 0.4%

reen an d l p b g the uat In the former royal capital, the Ayuthaya Elephant Palace runs Elephant Palace Ayuthaya the capital, royal In the former ressure on its ecosystems through cu g q isation, ur p owing l farms. Natura ll Watch pachyderms enjoy a semi-wild retirement after a life- after retirement a semi-wild enjoy pachyderms Watch Wild elephants congregate in the evenings at salt ponds in this at salt in the evenings congregate elephants Wild d ssues letion of the country’s forests coincided with letion of the country’s y the mi a s rotecte ages an , urin fo p b p ll rograms of mangrove areas have gained in have rograms of mangrove areas d les of Thailand can be divided into two forest of Thailandles two into be divided can d rotective role in the 2004 Asian tsunami g p ustria p vi d an ingdom’s land area as com ingdom’s n l d rovide an incubator coastal for many ennium to a id de k ess er of p ﬂ ll jun p ntal I b Spend time with elephants and their mahouts in this traditional elephant in this traditional and their mahouts Spend time with elephants s in g ea urie provinces are Chiang Mai an are Chiang provinces Mai e d l ut enormous ers an array of educational elephant activities, from one-day visits to ma- to visits one-day from elephant activities, educational of an array ers b

d ﬀ monsoon forest trees, monsoon forest lesia kerrii p d you can see it at Khao So tatio d ff ; into cities an in Thai a where rain falls more than nine months than nine rain falls more where s d d ( nm ue . onse to environmenta R l has

ecies and they cover a variety are ground dwell of habitat: some . e others anchor high u p o an uous trees, which are uous trees, s l d s though these statistics are a l p arge num l d l i p y foreste anne s usty an usty l an y va t l l b a d of 40% forest cover eci s l cro h es: monsoon (with a distinctdry and or more) three months season of (with es: monsoon d d a mahout-training program to preserve the ancient tradition (see the boxed text, p 164 ) 164 p text, the boxed (see the ancient tradition preserve to program a mahout-training time of work at this unique sanctuary, outside Chiang Mai (p 253 ) 253 Chiang Mai (p outside at this unique sanctuary, work time of Conservation Center Elephant Thai Kuiburi National Park National Kuiburi Programme Elephantstay Ban Ta Klang Ta Ban Park Nature Elephant ) 526 p text, the boxed Hua Hin (see of southwest national park, Thailand's emblematic animal has had many career changes from beast of burden burden of beast from changes career many Thailand's emblematic animal has had with encounters close have can visitors Today attraction. tourist machine to and war platform. a wildlife-viewing or from as a mahout-in-training elephants ENCOUNTERS WITH ELEPHANTS ENCOUNTERS WITH ) 429 Thailand (p in northeastern village herding hout training (p 307 ) 307 (p hout training elephants o elephants In res In Orchids are Thailand’s most ex Orchids are Thailand’s Thailand nearly 75 coastal mangrove s is home to In southern Thailand, is where rainfall In Monsoon forests in the northern forests Monsoon Theremainin t out 28% of the ecies. Reforestation g re p as uantities ut te reas of monsoon forest. One remarkable forest. One remarkable reas of monsoon ears ago. The ra rs, whi p ainforest ainforest he turn of the mi he shift towar ion of olerant trees that y y throughout the year, forests are c forests the year, y throughout s 80cm across heavi ou goa w t a ab y t ging. A Envir Defore Thai t e t thanks to their larity l a fo b q r of t native s Province that Province hi , - - - - ) n e o p erts p uency rior to arts of q p p the rainy , ife ex in Nakh lexes by and s ldl p ecies that are ir ora is neither ora p ﬂ o ights and boat

ﬂ rolonged down (Wild Animal (Wild

d p erv s lains and south all p oss. Wi oss. S l l a type of wild cattle a type owing disaster zones, ( fl rovinces, mainly in the WARF p itat itat b b rmed re . al peer pressure) will be al peer pressure) o f s ected ff ut ha y Thai an fauna b ooding in southern Thailand,ooding in southern in b fl its into over

e p e fanfare nes would have been minimal have would nes d d l fi itt l ife tra er face arched late and tran ulations living near forest com living near ulations eforestation is ha eforestation g s p was started by a Bangkok housewife who housewife a Bangkok by started was with p d ldl o d an eriod of heavy rainfall several months eriod of heavy p nth d s. p wi orts, Bangkok’s Chatuchak Market contains a contains Chatuchak Market Bangkok’s orts, o t l ooding through the central ooding ff fl s eare em to ega pp bl ll ood conditions. Swollen rivers and ood fl oods has increased in recent years. In 2010 In oods has increased in recent years. reatest reatest ro isa fl intere g p d everal m al to sell timber felled in the country, but this law is fre law but this country, in the felled timber sell al to d maybe even a little environment a little maybe even s g so l ng ary ooding is a common natural occurrence is a common natural ooding in some fl orts to stop the trade are more impressive than those of its its of than those impressive more are the trade stop to orts i ll ff by local outed fl to Hat Yai. There deaths and a massive disaster relief were 177 Yai. to Hat ood occurred in 2006 with 46 a fl nnecte y o nal n came t margin on the sale of the animals. Another complicating factor factor complicating Another the animals. of on the sale t margin onse that lasted for several months afterwaters subsided. Another -c coro fi so n 2011, a two-week a two-week n 2011, wild populations. Most agree that the real solution isn’t harsher harsher isn’t solution that the real agree Most wild populations. so p ll I A ff ree that the ree that ours then extended uently uently g ea creating 50-year notably extinct in Thailand include the kouprey Ratchasima Province from Ratchasima Province we s innumerable smaller rhino, but and the Javan deer Schomburgk’s the wa the start season caused of the rainy res cluding the beach resorts. Tourists were stranded until were stranded cluding the beach resorts. Tourists s p cies have a cies have Flood Sea It is now ille now It is q a record hunting nor the i hunting nor north, 2008 along Mekong. and again in of record-level Thailandrains. But the fre due to the nature of the monsoon conservation (and conservation levels. Though the country’s e Though the country’s On a small scale, several NGOs work on the attendant problems. problems. on the attendant work NGOs several a small scale, On nes. Even if the case was prosecuted the maximum prosecuted was if the case Even nes. the city may the city may annually and Bangkok Bangkok has estimate that estimate converted her backyard into a makeshift sanctuary for unwanted wild pets some 30 30 some wild pets unwanted for sanctuary a makeshift into her backyard converted job- operations, on sting department with the forestry the NGO works Today ago. years the students of Some Thai public schools. in workshops and educational skills training that the hopes WARF and poachers who are parents have workshops WARF who attend of message to hopes WARF and job training, education better With students. those home to brought conservationists. into poachers turn current and to poachers future dissuade ILLEGAL WILDLIFE TRADE WILDLIFE ILLEGAL Spe- in Endangered Trade on International the UN Convention to Thailand is a signatory for link and marketplace an important transport remains but the country (Cites), cies and drugs after activity black-market which is the third-largest trade, wildlife the global or forests local from poached are animals and animal parts Endangered arms dealing. mar- the lucrative to Thailand en route through neighbouring countries smuggled from e police Despite China or the US. of kets clandestine exotic species section. species exotic clandestine Arab a United In 2011, enforcement. hinder law laws and weak corruption neighbours, full with a suitcase airport Suvarnabhumi at Bangkok’s arrested national was Emirates investiga- to According gibbons). and baby cubs bear and (leopard wildlife drugged of immi- through he had passed until after the suitcase possess did not the smuggler tors, the smuggler connections, political Through an airport collaborator. suggesting gration, or no criminal charges facing the country, leave to jail and allowed from released was fi the pro to compared to ostensibly designed in captivity, bred wild species of the trade allows Thai law is that o the pressure take penalties but decline in demand. Without buyers, there will be no trade. there buyers, Without but decline in demand. penalties Rescue Foundation of Thailand; www.warthai.org) of Foundation Rescue a rate of 10cm 10cm of a rate been sinking at been sinking at within 20 years years within 20 some scientists scientists some face submersion submersion face due to rising sea rising sea due to

752 ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES 753 heavenly. the smell is The town of of The town spread across across spread Pranburi main- Pranburi tains a thriving tains to dry on racks dry on racks to the river where where the river their catch and and their catch set the fish out set workers unload unload workers at the mouth of at the mouth of Trawlers pull up Trawlers fishing industry. fishing industry. town. Thais think town.

, l ------) y a d art ids he eri sh in ual p p fi p ) aced p q owe p ustria letion ll d otential p rint, the p were en were p fo . in k ll d o waters out ofwaters k arks that had ecting of tens d s. Many refuge s. Many an p ff l k ulation and eco a oo p d fl went to o ood conditions entia ort, was con which k p rises that can go into fl table catch table d p p fi s an oo ulations along the river d b acted by large-scale ulation comes increased ro n p p p p re o ents of Bang ents of o o d p i d p due to groundwater de ( as this d also 50-year as much of the as much ressure on Thailand’s diverse coral ressure on Thailand’s ing hun ( ort. The global bleaching 2010 p erts attribute human alteration of human alteration erts attribute p ll p i orts, resi many ate for four to six wee ate for four to p an erienced higher ff roblem. According to the World Bank, roblem. According to the World ee k er, the resi er, p d ed as highly threatened, indicating aed as highly threatened, indicating p p k , lains and wetlands. Another emerging fi b e d ooding along Mekong is often is to linked ooding along Mekong p d . oods fl ectedextreme reasons for these weather issi fl p

construction of jetties, breakwaters, ocean construction breakwaters, of jetties, d an e to l ( g oo l ing at Don Muang air Muang ing at Don ﬂ ood rojects, removal of ra such as dams and ﬂ d to p u ne Degradat ite their e d uts serious l . ate Octo i p , land subsiding p l km from its coastline every year. This is in km from its coastline every year. ) ment q . p ecte y inc read bleaching.It is unclear if these reefs, which ecame art of the Thai economy. Fisheries continue to ex art of the Thai economy. p p will recover p b , p

e. Des ulation and that industrial wastewater is often insuf e. By ressure devastatin arts of Thai k p . erate strugg g bl resume. Even worse, months of heavy rainfa heavy of months worse, Even resume. p pl o p o p k p ld eo es ected ossi p ff ortant d p in which El Nino weather conditions contributed to warmer in which El Nino weather conditions contributed p , s coastal region has ex eratures, exacerbated the health of Thailand’s reefs. The Thai eratures, exacerbated the health of Thailand’s ’ ood barriers and watercourses and deforestation as ood barriers and watercourses many many fl treated p er Gulf of Thailand. With increased ortionate coral to living coral, according to number of dead d y stem and marine environment. It is estimated that about 50% ofstem and marine environment. ort cou p in a onent is the role of climate change in the increase of seasonal onent is the role of climate y pp p ing was not exing was not er waters and devote to a more resources d p ro s. ate ions of ions of d erienced wides p s manufacturing industry and is located along the eastern seaboard ’ p n ll d stream infrastructure There of sus a myriad are The ocean is further overall health of the im Coastal degradation Soil erosion is a major coastal p i orld Bank 2006 environmental re orld Bank 2006 environmental ere 80% a p atterns. Many environmental ex environmental Many atterns. ee is ue to coastal develo y the area’s y the area’s nd to rising sea levels. Accurate data is lacking on coastal water reas of Bang nd the ensuin nd the x nvironmental nvironmental nce declining catches and an industry once dominated by small famil om auses. Increased incidents of auses. Increased entres were setentres were u eef s a ry he u hat infringe on forested hat infringe on forested he city as he city rans or easier navigation, and increasing human and or easier navigation, ront hotels and roads oo sherfolk has now shifted enter to big commercial cientl mi ing, an im e fi d e w d W nomenon b fi r d f a but analysts admit that wastewater treatment facilities are out ity t t e Coastal & Mar Thailand coun of the and the majority national average nomic growth than the f t c r p c a fl c verted a tent cit into un gage t t a u natural government closed to tourism 18 areas in seven marine Thailand is losing 2 s Thailand’s coral reefs are classi Thailand’s sea tem Survival Guide

DIRECTORY A-Z . . . .756 Air ...... 768 Accommodation ...... 756 Land ...... 769 Business Hours ...... 757 GETTING AROUND ...... 772 Customs Regulations . . . .757 Air ...... 772 Electricity ...... 758 Boat ...... 772 Embassies & Bus & Minivan ...... 772 Consulates ...... 758 Car & Motorcycle ...... 773 Gay & Lesbian Travellers . . . 759 Hitching ...... 774 Holidays ...... 759 Local Transport ...... 774 Insurance ...... 759 Tours ...... 775 Internet Access ...... 760 Train ...... 776 Legal Matters ...... 760 Maps ...... 760 HEALTH ...... 777 Money ...... 760 BEFORE YOU GO ...... 777 Photography ...... 761 Insurance ...... 777 Post ...... 761 Vaccinations ...... 777 Safe Travel ...... 761 Medical Checklist ...... 777 Shopping ...... 762 IN TRANSIT ...... 778 Telephone ...... 764 Deep Vein Thrombosis . . .778 Time ...... 765 Jet Lag & Motion Toilets ...... 765 Sickness ...... 778 Tourist Information . . . . . 765 IN THAILAND ...... 778 Travellers with Availability & Cost of Disabilities ...... 765 Health Care ...... 778 Visas ...... 766 Infectious Diseases ...... 779 Volunteering ...... 766 Traveller’s Diarrhoea . . . . 780 Women Travellers ...... 766 Environmental Hazards . . .781 Travelling with TRANSPORT ...... 768 Children ...... 782 GETTING THERE Women’s Health ...... 782 & AWAY ...... 768 Entering the Country . . . . 768 LANGUAGE ...... 784 756 from their on-site restaurants that serve the classic backpacker fare (banana pancakes and fruit shakes). Although these restaurants are convenient and a good way to meet other travellers, don’t measure Thai food based on these dishes. Most guest houses cultivate a travellers’ ambience with friendly knowledgeable staff and book exchanges. But there are also plenty of guest houses with grumpy, disgruntled, clerks who let customers know that they dislike their jobs. Directory Increasingly, guest houses can handle advance reservations, but due to inconsistent cleanliness and quality it is A-Z advisable to always look at a room in person before committing. In tourist centres, if your preferred place is full, handy to know the following: there are usually alternatives hôrng pát lom (room with Accommodation nearby. Guest houses typically fan) and hôrng aa (room with only accept cash payments. Thailand off ers a wide variety air-con). of accommodation from Hotels cheap and basic to pricey Guest Houses In provincial capitals and and luxurious. Accommoda- Guest houses are generally small towns, the only options tion rates listed in this book the cheapest accommodation are often older Thai-Chinese are high-season prices. Icons in Thailand and can be found hotels, once the standard in are included to indicate inter- all along the backpacker trail. all of Thailand. Most cater to net access, wi-fi , swimming In areas like the northeast and Thai guests and English is pools or air-con availability. If parts of the southeast, guest usually limited. there isn’t an air-con icon, as- houses (as well as tourists) These hotels are multi- sume that there’s only a fan. are not as widespread. storey buildings and might A two-tiered pricing system Rates vary according to off er a range of rooms from has been used in this book facilities and location. In midrange options with private to determine budget cat- small towns between 150B to bathrooms, air-con and TV to egory (budget, midrange, top 200B are about the cheap- cheaper ones with shared bath end). In big cities and beach est rates around and usually facilities and a fan. In some of resorts, rates under 1000B have shared bathroom and a the older hotels, the toilets are are budget, under 3000B are rickety fan. Private facilities, squats and the ‘shower’ is a midrange, with top end over air-con and sometimes a TV klong jar (a large terracotta ba- 3000B. For small towns, rates can be had for 600B to 800B. sin from which you scoop out under 600B are budget, un- But prices are much higher water for bathing). Although der 1500B are midrange and in the beach resorts, where a the Thai-Chinese hotels have top end over 1500B. basic fan room starts at 700B got tonnes of accidental retro In places where spoken to 800B. Many guest houses charm, unless the establish- English might be limited, it is make their bread and butter ment has been recently refur- bished, we’ve found that they are too old and worn to repre- BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE sent good value compared to the guest houses. For more accommodation reviews and recommendations In recent years, there has by Lonely Planet authors, check out the online booking been a push to fi ll the budget service at www.lonelyplanet.com/thailand. You’ll fi nd the gap for ageing backpackers true, insider lowdown on the best places to stay. Reviews or young affl uent travellers who want the ambience of a are thorough and independent. Best of all, you can book guest house with the com- online. forts of a hotel. Now in major 757 tourist towns, ‘fl ashpacker’ handled on diff erent pages Restaurants 10am to 10pm; hotels have dressed up the within the website. some specialise in morning utilitarian options of the past meals and close by 3pm. with stylish decor and more Stores local stores: 10am creature comforts. Business Hours to 6pm daily; department International chain hotels stores 10am to 8pm daily. can be found in Bangkok, The following are standard In some small towns, local A-Z DIRECTORY hours for diff erent types Chiang Mai, Phuket and stores close on Sunday. other high-end beach re- of businesses in Thailand. sorts. Many of these upscale Reviews in this book list only resorts incorporate tradi- variations from these stand- tional Thai architecture with ards. All government offi ces Customs modern minimalism. and banks are closed on Regulations Most top-end hotels and public holidays (see p758 ). The customs department some midrange hotels add Banks 9.30am to 3.30pm (www.customsclinic.org) main- BUSINESS HOURS a 7% government tax (VAT) Monday to Friday; ATMs tains a helpful website with and an additional 10% service accessible 24 hours. specifi c information about charge. The additional charg- Bars 6pm to midnight (of- customs regulations. Thai- es are often referred to as ficially); closing times vary land allows the follow items ‘plus plus’. A buff et breakfast due to local enforcement to enter duty free: will often be included in the of curfew laws; bars close » reasonable amount of room rate. If the hotel off ers a during elections and certain personal eff ects (clothing Western breakfast, it is usu- religious public holidays. and toiletries) ally referred to as ‘ABF’, mean- Clubs (discos) 8pm to » professional instruments ing ‘American breakfast’. 2am; closing times vary » 200 cigarettes Midrange and chain hotels, due to local enforcement » especially in major tourist of curfew laws; clubs close 1L of wine or spirits destinations, can be booked in during elections and certain Thailand prohibits the import advance and some off er inter- religious public holidays. of the following items: net discounts through their » Government offices fi rearms and ammunition websites or online agents. They 8.30am to 4.30pm Monday (unless registered in advance also accept most credit cards, to Friday; some close for with the police department) but only a few deluxe places » lunch (noon to 1pm), while illegal drugs accept American Express. others are open Saturday » pornographic media National Parks (9am to 3pm). When leaving Thailand, you must obtain an export licence Accommodation Live-music venues 6pm to 1am; closing times vary for any antique reproductions Most national parks have due to local enforcement or newly cast Buddha images bungalows or campsites. of curfew laws; clubs close (except personal amulets). Bungalows typically sleep as during elections and certain Submitting two front-view many as 10 people and rates religious public holidays. photos of the object(s), a range from 800B to 2000B, depending on the park and the size of the bungalow. These are popular with COMMISSION HASSLES extended Thai families who bring enough provisions to In the popular tourist spots you’ll be approached, survive the Apocalypse. A few sometimes surrounded, by touts or transport drivers parks also have reu·an tăa·ou who get a commission from the guest house for bring- (longhouses). Camping is available at ing in potential guests. While it is annoying for the trav- many parks for 60B to 90B eller, this is an acceptable form of advertising among per night. Some parks rent small-scale businesses in Thailand. As long as you know tents and other sleeping the drill, everything should work out in your favour. gear, but the condition of the Touts get paid for delivering you to a guest house or equipment can be poor. hotel (whether you check in or not). Some places refuse Reservations for all park to pay commissions so in return the touts will steer accommodation must be customers away from those places (saying it is closed made in advance through the central booking system or burned down). In less scrupulous instances, they’ll (%0 2561 0777; web2.dnp. tell you that the commission-paying hotel is the one you go.th/parkreserve). Do note requested. If you meet with resistance, call the guest that reservations for camp- house for a pick-up as they are often aware of aggres- sites and bungalows are sive business tactics. ; 92 12/300 4/100 12/300 4/100 20/500 16/400 20/500 16/400 8/200 8/200 12/300 4/100 20/500 16/400 0 0 8/200 0 0 0 (Map inches/mm inches/mm inches/mm inches/mm inches/mm inches/mm 0 % % 0 2657 0 2657 ; ; % (Map p 0 2258 ; % 90 90 ; Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Consulates Consulates % 90 ; 82 Consulates in Consulates 92 N N N Bangkok Visa Visa Bangkok (Map p (Map p

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ELECTRICITY

DIRECTORY A-Z 758 DIRECTORY A-Z GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS 759 cally cally fi (date (date Constitution Constitution New Year’s Eve Year’s New King’s Birthday King’s Songkran Songkran Chulalongkorn Chulalongkorn ight home. ight ering medical- ering Queen’s Birthday Queen’s fl ff New Year’s Day Year’s New (date varies) varies) (date (date varies) varies) (date Chakri Day, com- Day, Chakri Coronation Day, Day, Coronation Labour Day er di er ff (date varies) Asahna Asahna varies) (date You may prefer a policy a policy prefer may You insur- travel Worldwide Some policies speci policies Some exclude ‘dangerous ‘dangerous activi- exclude include scuba which can ties’, or even motorcycling diving, acquired locally A trekking. is not licence motorcycle policies. under some valid or hospi- doctors that pays than you rather tals directly on the spot pay to having have If you and claim later. you sure make claim later to all documentation. keep at www. is available ance lonelyplanet.com/travel_ extend buy, can You services. and claim online anytime

memorating the founder of of the founder memorating I Rama the Chakri dynasty, Day

expense options. There is There options. expense policies of a wide variety check the small so available, that the policy Be sure print. or an ambulances covers emergency July July holy day Buddhist Bucha, August 12 October 23 October/November 5 December December10 December 31 Insurance to policy insurance travel- A and medical loss theft, cover Poli- idea. is a good problems o cies 1 January February 6 April 13–14 April 5 May 1 May May/June

commemorating the 1946 commemorating HM the King of coronation and HM the Queen Makha Bucha Day, Buddhist Buddhist Bucha Day, Makha holy day Visakha Bucha, Buddhist Buddhist Bucha, Visakha holy day end the Phansaa, Ork varies) ‘lent’ Buddhist of Festival, traditional Thai New Thai New traditional Festival, festival and water Year Day 0 0 0

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0 2233 2237; www.mofa. 0 2233 2237; 0 2207 8500; www.th.emb 0 2207 2259 0139; www.philembassy- 0139; 2259 Th Sukhum- 760 bangkok.net; Bangkok) vit, Pattaya and Phuket. Pattaya late in Songkhla. late late only; the nearest Irish Irish only; the nearest late in Kuala Lumpur. is embassy bkklaoembassy.com; 502/1-3 502/1-3 bkklaoembassy.com; Pracha Sahakarnpramoon, Soi Th Ramkamhaeng, 39, Uthit/Soi Bangkok) 9824 www.thailand.mid.ru; www.thailand.mid.ru; 9824 Th Surawong, Sap, Soi 78 Bangkok) 7500; www.irelandinthailand. 7500; Th Q House, 28th fl, com; Bangkok) Tai, Sathon 5324 3066; 33/1 Th Thung Th 3066; 33/1 5324 Gate) Wat Hotel, Singapore Russia Philippines New Zealand New Nepal Netherlands Myanmar Myanmar % Malaysia Laos Israel Ireland 104-107 Airport Business Park, Park, Airport Business 104-107 Th Mahidon) % Japan Chiang Mai Consulate Chiang Indonesia com; Glass Haus Bldg, 15th 15th Bldg, Haus Glass com; Sukhumvit); Th 1503, suite fl, immi.gov.np; 189 Soi 71, Th 71, Soi 189 immi.gov.np; Bangkok) Sukhumvit, 2309 5200; www.netherland 2309 5200; Tonson, 15 Soi sembassy.in.th; Bangkok) Th Ploenchit, gov.mm; 132 Th Sathon Neua, Neua, Th Sathon 132 gov.mm; Bangkok) -japan.go.jp; 177 Th Withayu/ Th 177 -japan.go.jp; Rd); Wireless 2252 3135; www.kemlu.go.id/ 2252 3135; Th Phetch- 600-602 bangkok; Bangkok) aburi, 2254 2530; www.nzembassy. All Tower, Thai M fl, 14th com; Withayu/ Th 87 Pl, Seasons Bangkok) Rd, Wireless 2629 6800; 35 Th Sathon Tai, Tai, Th Sathon 2629 6800; 35 Bangkok) 2286 2111; www.mfa.gov.sg/ Consulate 9200; bangkok.mfa.gov.il; bangkok.mfa.gov.il; 9200; 25 Soi 25th fl, 2, Tower Ocean Bangkok) Th Sukhumvit, 19, (15g). English-language news news English-language Paper currency is issued in in is issued currency Paper Thai ATMs now charge charge now ATMs Thai that bank is the only Aeon bàat bàat Thai and Arabic numerals. numerals. Arabic Thai and is similar in size The 2B coin in but it is gold 1B coin the to coins satang The two colour. at only issued typically are prices where supermarkets the up to rounded aren’t baht. nearest denominations: the following 50B (blue), (green), 20B 500B (purple) (red), 100B (beige). and 1000B ATMs & Credit/Debit ATMs Cards Debit and ATM cards is- own in your a bank sued by ATMs at be used can country withdraw Thailand to around di- only) Thai baht (in cash back account your from rectly widespread are ATMs home. and the country throughout the bulk of on for be relied can can You spending cash. your at buy baht to ATMs use also at booths foreign-exchange banks. some a 150B foreign-transaction cur- whatever of on top fee and out- conversion rency home your fees of-network That means charges. bank a lot now are ATMs that than use to expensive more leaving Before in the past. a for shop around home, that has free account bank and usage ATM international at incurred fees reimburses ATMs. institution’s other Thailand that in of know we the 150B us- charge doesn’t accounts on foreign fee age Nation Nation

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cafes just about everywhere. about everywhere. just cafes is anywhere rate The going an hour, 120B 40B to from much depending on how Con- is. there competition be pretty to nections tend are the machines and fast Wire- maintained. usually well less access (wi- and hotels in most available sta though houses guest Internet Internet Access You’ll dations on health insurance insurance on health dations vehi- on details for 774 and p cle insurance. services. Wi- ing so check to see if your your if see check to ing so ﬂ – even if you’re already on already you’re if – even the road. at adept aren’t upper in the deteriorates ﬂ

INTERNET ACCESS

DIRECTORY A-Z 760 761 DIRECTORY A-Z PHOTOGRAPHY . rmer fi cient cient ffi fa·ràng ces in in ces ll out ll ffi fi ces keep keep ces ffi Women, especially solo solo especially Women, Most provincial post of- post provincial Most restante poste Thailand’s pos- a personal or have ff ces will sell do-it-yourself do-it-yourself will sell ces irtation might convey Assault in is rare travellers of Assault happen. it does but Thailand, face’ ‘lose to Thai Causing a public embarrassment (feel some- or humiliation) can elicit an inexplicably times and violent reaction. strong is the alcohol Oftentimes to number one contributor out- and worse choices bad comes. be smart need to travellers, when sober and somewhat with the opposite interacting Thai or be they sex, postal service and local post- and local service postal Typical is inexpensive. age o post provincial 8.30am hours: the following and weekdays 4.30pm to Saturdays. noon on 9am to o main post Larger also may capitals provincial on half-day a be open for Sundays. fi send Don’t boxes. packing valuables or other cash mail. the through reli- very is generally service few days though these able, you When it. use tourists show must you mail, receive and passport your paperwork. some Safe Travel a Thailand is not Although it visit, to country dangerous caution, exercise is smart to to when it comes especially (both with strangers dealing and Thai and foreigners) you In reality, alone. travelling be ripped to likely more are o stolen surreptitiously session be physically to are than you harmed. Opportunists (foreigner) whis- many when too pounce Also involved. are buckets ky that an innocent be aware fl Post e has a very Thailand oad your your oad ffl Be considerate when tak- Be considerate At many hotel restaurants restaurants hotel many At Photography and fans gadget Thais are with pics snap readily they phones. or camera cameras digital for Memory cards widely generally are cameras popular in the more available in the and available formats most of sections electronic In the tourist shopping malls. shops internet many areas, CD-burning software have o to want if you most Alternatively, pictures. sophisticated have places that you enough connections digital quickly upload can storage a remote to photos site. the locals. of ing photographs in ask politely to how Learn an embar- for Thai and wait the of In some nod. rassed hill-tribe visited regularly the for be prepared areas ask subject to photographed a for in exchange money for will Other hill tribes picture. point a cam- to you allow not at them. era commercial bank in Thailand. Thailand. in bank commercial origi- as the funds long As the country, out of from nate restrictions any aren’t there or with- on maintenance drawal. Tipping generally Tipping is not The expected in Thailand. change is loose exception bill; restaurant a large from 488B and costs if a meal with a 500B note, pay you the 12B Thais will leave some much a tip so not It’s change. so ‘I’m not saying of as a way grab grubbing as to money baht’. last every eateries, upmarket or other will charge service a 10% When bill. your be added to is tipping this is the case, has Bangkok expected. not standards some adopted in especially tipping, of by frequented restaurants foreigners.

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ff . These These . tourist police if you have any prob- any have if you 1155) Follow the same practice practice the same Follow card, When using a credit your all of losing avoid To Contact the Follow Tourism Authority Authority Tourism Follow ects (passport, money, money, (passport, ects ff % lems with consumer fraud. lems with consumer ( invariably take a commission a commission take invariably the See purchases. your from more for , 142 p text, boxed information. Theft & Fraud when diligence Exercise personal your to comes it that your Ensure belongings. and locked is securely room important most your carry e person. on your cards) credit valu- leaving when care Take safes. in hotel ables A travelling. when you’re prevent will not bag locked bus. on a long-haul theft your take vendors let don’t sight your out of card credit the machine. run it through to merchants Unscrupulous rub o to been known have receipts or more or four three Some- with one purchase. weeks several wait they times months – between – even charge submitting each that so the bank, to receipt whether remember can’t you the same been billed by you’d than once. more vendor in an instant, money travel that is not card a credit use bank your to linked directly that home so back account ac- have doesn’t the operator funds. immediate to cess Scams and friendly be so Thais can visitors that some laid-back of sense false a lulled into are vul- making them security, all kinds. of scams to nerable good is especially Bangkok that frauds at long-involved thinking into dupe travellers made a friend that they’ve on a bargain getting and are stones gem highly valuable actually pretty, are (which glass). sparkling number- (TAT) Thailand's of tourists: to one suggestion Disregard all offers of free sightseeing or shopping strangers from help limits limits ff cantly cantly fi ned as attempting fi not cking that are ffi Cross-border Cross-border relations The long-contested govern- Check with your Possession or sell buy, to It is illegal am- heroin, opium, possess hallucinogenic phetamines, and marijuana in mushrooms Thailand’s Belying Thailand. atmosphere anything-goes punish- strict severely are and possession for ments tra Pos- foreigners. for relaxed result can drugs of session or more one year in at least smug- Drug time. prison of gling – de Druggings & Drug to cross a border with drugs with drugs a border cross to – carries possession in your higher penal- considerably including execution. ties, Spots much better enjoys Thailand neighbours with its relations are land borders and most for passages fully functional However, and people. goods in the violence the ongoing the boxed (see South Deep the ) has made 596 p text, into Kolok at Sungai crossing o completely Malaysia Border Issues & Hot Thailand and My- between signi anmar have intentions to a recipient who a recipient to intentions culture’s your share not does norms. sexual Muslim-ma- and the entire Pattani (Yala, provinces jority should be and Narathiwat) visitors. casual by avoided area at Khao Phra Wihan Wihan at Khao Phra area in Vihear’ ‘Preah as (known Thai- along the Cambodia), a is still Cambodian border, military clashes of source until a and should be avoided is found. peace lasting for ministry foreign ment’s warnings. travel current normalised though borders though borders normalised without closing subject to are usually are Borders warning. news-making due to closed 2010 Myanmar’s like events, abreast keeping so elections, prior to events current of will arriving at the border problems. potential prevent

SHOPPING

DIRECTORY A-Z 762 DIRECTORY A-Z SHOPPING 763 the dodge cult to ﬃ Although there are a lot a lot are Although there Lacquerware for Mai is known Chiang lacquerware. gold-on-black and furniture Lacquerware tradi- were items decorative bamboo tionally made from days but these and teak might be used wood mango is If the item as the base. only the frame quality, top or and horse is bamboo will be wound hairs donkey lower-quality With it. round the whole ob- lacquerware, bamboo. ject is made from is then coated The lacquer and the framework over several After dry. to allowed with down it is sanded days Gems & Jewellery exporter is a leading Thailand and ornaments, gems of India and Sri only by rivalled Although rough-stone Lanka. de- Thailand have in sources stones dramatically, creased My- from imported now are other and Sri Lanka anmar, polished be cut, to countries and traded. stores and jewellery gem of it has become Thailand, in di so that the country scammers a safe represents no longer buy to place and enjoyable just It is better goods. these shop. window to from rubber trees that can can that trees rubber from latex for be used no longer production.

ff xed. fi er; always start low but don’t bargain bargain but don’t low start er; always ff er, then ask ‘Can you lower the price?’. the price?’. lower you ‘Can then ask er, ff rst o rst fi It helps immeasurably to keep the negotiations re- the negotiations keep to immeasurably It helps Thais respect a good haggler. Always let the vendor the vendor let Always haggler. a good Thais respect This usually results in a discount. Now it’s your turn to turn to your it’s Now in a discount. This usually results a countero make about buying. serious you’re at all unless Don’t smile. to remember and always and friendly, laxed a is not as drama voice your or raise temper your lose tool. leverage good BARGAINING then an item for the price a sign stating isn’t If there items nonfood for Bargaining is negotiable. the price mum-and-dad and some markets in street is common 7-Elev- minimarts, stores, in department Prices shops. are forth ens and so make the make Furniture fur- and hardwood Rattan good often are items niture be made and can purchases Chiang Mai is the order. to primary furniture country’s retail with many producer to Due in Bangkok. outlets harvesting on teak the ban exhaus- and the subsequent of 70% teak, recycled tion of produced furniture export made from Thailand is in wood a processed parawood, Fake Goods and Chiang Mai In Bangkok, there’s centres tourist other black-market a thriving designer in fake trade street No one pretends goods. at thing, the real they’re Tech- the vendors. not least these for it is illegal nically and be produced to items Thailand has often and sold intellec- by been pressured enforcement tual-property the down close to agencies a crack- does Rarely trade. and last the police by down develop the vendors often means surreptitious more further distribution, of highlighting the contraband In the goods. of character ex- for market, the Patpong might show a vendor ample, a knock-o of a picture you watch, you pay for it and it and for pay you watch, to the corner around go they usually come They it. fetch long wait but you’ll back wonder. enough to lled fi t Westerners’ body Westerners’ t fi ts before you leave leave you before ts fi Thailand has a long sarto- Real antiques cannot be cannot antiques Real t larger feet is also a prob- is also feet t larger ttings. the store. main- practised rial tradition, Thai-Indian Sikh family by is But this industry lies. Clothing be inexpen- to tend Clothes Thailand but ready- in sive usually not are made items cut to larger- Increasingly, types. in available are clothes sized malls or tourist metropolitan cheap sell Markets centres. and are items everyday picking up some- handy for is else thing when everything Bang- chic clothes, For dirty. the lead Samui and Ko kok with design-minded country that Finding shoes fashions. fi returns of The custom lem. in widely accepted is not every- be sure so Thailand, thing with cut-rate operators and operators with cut-rate scams. commission-paying 24- quickie the of Be wary often they hour tailor shops; and have fabric inferior use best It’s poor workmanship. resi- ask longtime foreign to a recommendation for dents or three two for and then go fi Ceramics hand-thrown kinds of Many are and new, old pottery, the throughout available is full of Bangkok kingdom. designs modern ceramic to while Chiang Mai sticks and Kret Ko styles. traditional traditional two are Kwian Dan villages. pottery Antiques in- are Thai antiques Real most Today rare. creasingly antique repro- sell dealers My- from or items ductions and Chiang Bangkok anmar. for centres the two Mai are reproduction the antique and trade. Thailand without out of taken image, No Buddha a permit. exported be may or old, new the of without the permission See Arts. Fine of Department p 756 for information. 001 % making it (usually ll cards fi 100 for operator- for 100 essage, essage, % ces and CAT centres centres and CAT ces 1 800 000 120 from a from 1 800 000 120 ffi % Dial Thailand is on the GSM Thailand is on hand-phone two have You promo- various are There through Calling overseas If you don’t have access to to access have don’t If you TOT phone. TOT tional rates of less than 1B than less of rates tional per minute. Mobile Phones Mobile option phone The easiest a acquire Thailand is to in phone equipped mobile (cell) SIM card. with a local and mobile phone network DTAC AIS, include providers Move. and True buy a mo- can you options: Thailand at bile phone in shopping the urban one of near malls or phone stores in provincial the markets an use can you Or towns. isn’t phone that imported (and one that SIM-locked the GSM network). supports card buy a SIM started get To (AIS carrier a particular of popular), most are and DTAC an assigned which includes Once number. telephone phone is SIM-enabled your with buy minutes can you SIM phonecards. prepaid and re cards 500B de- in 300B to sold be bought can nominations) throughout 7-Elevens from the country. hover typically tions but rates 2B per minute 1B to at around Thailand and in anywhere inter- and 9B for 5B between SMS is usually national calls. 3B per m the country. throughout rooms hotel in most phones additional usually incurs (sometimes surcharges the cheapest ‘talk’ option. ‘talk’ the cheapest use can phone you a private old-fashioned a somewhat through overseas call to way Home Coun- called a service at some available try Direct, post o assisted international calls or or calls international assisted call. (collect) reverse-charges your contact Alternatively, their for carrier long-distance number, operator overseas or try call, a toll-free 9991 2001 from a CAT phone phone a CAT from 9991 2001 and 001; er is er ff (www. % 009; DeeDial DeeDial x is x erent erent % fi CAT CAT ff , a direct- , 66 and 66 and 1 US. % % 61 Australia, 61 Australia, by x operated ering promo- ering fi ff % o 008 and % dial an interna- rst fi In Thailand, there are are there Thailand, In There are also a variety a variety also are There The following are some some are The following Many expats use use expats Many 007, a pre 007, 007, and 44 UK TOT with reliable quality and quality with reliable TOT Econ- rates. slightly cheaper with available are rates omy it is operated by CAT and is CAT by it is operated the best have to considered to it connects quality; sound coun- number of the largest most the but is also tries is best The next expensive. % % % (www.deedial.com) International Calls an inter- call to want If you a national number from you Thailand, in telephone must plus the code tional access the by followed code country number. subscriber access international various di charging codes The stand- per minute. rates pre direct-dial ard Telephone code country telephone The Thailand for is dial service that requires a that requires dial service managed account prepaid The the internet. through o they service cheapest which feature, ‘ring-back’ the on charges local circumvents phone. your phonecards international of through available both of which use Voice over over Voice which use of both with (VoIP), Protocol Internet sound but adequate varying quality. coun- international common try codes: cthai.com) cthai.com) is used when calling the the calling when is used All abroad. from country are numbers Thai telephone if you’re ‘0’ a by preceded ‘0’ (the dialling domestically from calling when is omitted the initial After overseas). numbers three the next ‘0’, area the provincial represent to integral which is now code, If the number. the telephone ‘8’, an by is followed ‘0’ initial dialling a mobile then you’re phone. ect fl (batik) (batik) é đ ve colours. colours. ve fi nish it can fi fabrics. Surin fabrics. ah• Ъ nd in the mar- ikat fi cloth – a thick cot- cloth silk often showcas- silk often ering damage. The damage. ering ff the Lanna of uence fl or six months to ve fi lled with handicraft fi In the north, silks re silks In the north, Fairly nice Each hill tribe has a tradi- hill tribe has Each From start to to start From Textiles for is famous The northeast mát·mèe has been machine ketplaces many are but there made, that help NGO cooperatives their handmade get villagers the consumers. to goods Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai are outlets. ton or silk fabric woven from from woven or silk fabric ton similar to threads, tie-dyed Indonesia’s Province is renowned for its its for is renowned Province mát·mèe the in ing colours and geometric and geometric ing colours from inherited patterns Khmer traditions. brought traditions, weaving Chiang Mai and the sur- to the mountains by rounding tribes. Tai various tion of embroidery that has that has embroidery tion of the into been translated as modern marketplace Much of and jewellery. bags what you’ll is available in the south in in the south is available simi- more that are patterns in Ma- found the batik lar to than in Indonesia. laysia ash from rice husks, and and husks, rice from ash lacquer of coating another high-quality A is applied. lay- seven have may item is The piece lacquer. of ers painted and then engraved remove to and polished everywhere from the paint in the engravings. except is lacquerware Multicoloured ap- repeated by produced plications. produce a high-quality piece piece a high-quality produce which may lacquerware, of as as many have the of and precision quality thing to is another engraving look for. take take is one character- Flexibility lacquerware: good of istic have can bowl a well-made together squeezed rim its with- meet until the sides out su

TELEPHONE

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A number of more expen- more number of A the prevailing to Counter must streets Many cult. ffi www.thailand.net.au; Level 2, 75 75 2, Level www.thailand.net.au; 2000) NSW Sydney, Pitt St, tourismthailand.co.uk; 3rd fl, fl, 3rd tourismthailand.co.uk; St, Jermyn 98-99 House, Brook 6EE) SW1Y London ongoing obstacle course for for course obstacle ongoing With impaired. the mobility foot- uneven high curbs, its tra and nonstop paths be particularly can Bangkok di Singapore UK USA with Travellers Disabilities Thailand presents one la via pedestrian be crossed bridges Hong Kong, Taipei, Seoul, Seoul, Taipei, Kong, Hong Fukuoka, Osaka, Tokyo, and Rome. Stockholm Australia France Germany Malaysia and while buses stairways, long enough stop don’t boats abled. the fully for even ramps any there are Rarely for points access or other wheelchairs. make hotels top-end sive e design consistent to access disabled provide deluxe Other their properties. with high employee- hotels usually are ratios to-guest about accommodating good by impaired the mobility sta providing the For fails. building design much left pretty you’re rest, resources. own your to trends, 90 Ave des Champs Élysées, Élysées, Champs des Ave 90 Paris) 75008 www.thaitourism.com.my; www.thaitourism.com.my; Menara 22, Level 22.01, Suite Kuala Jalan Ampang, 165 Lion, 50450) Lumpur, c/o Royal Thai Embassy, 370 370 Embassy, Thai Royal c/o 238870) Rd, Orchard 611 North Larchmont Blvd, Los Los Blvd, 611 North Larchmont 90004) CA Angeles, www.thailandtourismus.de; www.thailandtourismus.de; D-60311, 58, Bethmannstrasse Frankfurt/Main) (TAT; , was was , ce ce ffi Tourism is in Bangkok ce ffi bowl the plastic ush use fl Even in places where sit- where in places Even The following are a few of of a few are The following the coun- throughout ces website TAT’s check ces; ffi ffi Tourist Information The government-operated and information tourist service, promotion You should straddle the two the two straddle should You the door. and face footpads To the out of water scoop to and pour into basin adjacent places Some bowl. the toilet toilet of supply a small pack (5B), entrance at the paper own bring your otherwise or wipe the old-fash- stash with water. ioned way the installed, are toilets down be not may system septic paper. toilet take to designed will be a there In such cases you’re where basket waste toilet used place to supposed hygiene and feminine paper modern Some products. with a small come also toilets ver- Thailand’s – hose spray the bidet. sion of founded in 1960 and pro- founded pamphlets excellent duces accommo- on sightseeing, TAT’s dation and transport. o head 22 regional are and there o Check the destination try. o TAT the for chapters planning you’re in the towns visit. to information overseas TAT’s o in information contact for www.tourismthailand.org) Authority of Thailand c noise noise c ffi Thailand’s telecommunications companies and state- companies telecommunications Thailand’s the 3G (mo- over wrangling been have agencies owned that the years many so for platform) bile broadband been surpassed has since technology new-generation have to not country Asean Thailand is the only 4G. by smartphone us- of number a huge despite the service the services operate to contracts and 2011, In 2010 ers. ap- the courts, by and then suspended awarded were and now equipment has been delayed import to proval maybe. 3G, of might be the year 2012 like it looks 3G HERE WE COME, MAYBE? If you encounter a squat, a squat, encounter If you There are also a variety a variety also are There cinemas, and local ces ffi Toilets Increasingly, the Asian-style the of is less toilet squat There norm are in Thailand. plac- specimens in rural still bus stations, provincial es, and modest older homes Western- the but restaurants, is becoming toilet style and appears prevalent more can tourists foreign wherever be found. should know. what you here’s times are often expressed ac- expressed often are times clock, the 24-hour to cording ‘23.00’. 11pm is written e.g. Thailand’s time zone is seven seven is time zone Thailand’s GMT/UTC of ahead hours At government (London). o Time as much as 50% over and as much as 50% over how- rate); the CAT above calls local sometimes ever, rates. or at standard free are will have houses guest Some a mobile phone or landline a for use can that customers overseas for fee per-minute calls. that public payphones of for phonecards prepaid use and international (both calls common, less and, domestic) phones pay coin-operated the Using calls. local for be a bit can public phones typically are they a pain: of thor- busy beside placed tra where oughfares is a problem. ne fi 0 9am- % h ; maintains 236 Volunteer Work address. (www.volunteer

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» » 5320 1755-6; Th Mahidon; 1755-6; 5320 extensions and other formalities can be addressed. be addressed. can formalities other and extensions doing when best Sunday in your dress to Remember o visa of all types For party). a third hire (don’t yourself photos passport-sized bring along two extensions, your of pages and visa the photo of each and one copy passport. THAILAND’S IMMIGRATION OFFICES THAILAND’S IMMIGRATION o immigration two are The following Bangkok Government Center, Th Chaeng Wattana; Wattana; Th Chaeng Center, Government Bangkok noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri) noon & 1-4.30pm Another visa-renewal op- visa-renewal Another and extended family visits. visits. family and extended multiple-entry are There in this visa available visas to likely more you’re class; multiple entries be granted Thai con- apply at a if you or the US in Europe, sulate If than elsewhere. Australia Thai a apply for plan to you need to you’ll permit, work a Non-Immigrant possess Visa if the extension is handled if the extension The expires. the visa before be can visa tourist 60-day 30 days up to by extended im- Thai of at the discretion authorities. migration A a land border. cross tion is to will be issued visa 15-day new and some return upon your a make visitors short-term run’. ‘visa the trip out of day chapters the destination See information land border for formalities. and border Visa Extensions & Renewals to want decide you If you the allotted than longer stay your extend can you time, immi- applying at any by visa o gration extension a visa for usual fee with issued Those is 1900B. 15 or 30 of stay a standard for stay their extend can days (depending days 10 to seven o on the immigration is intended for foreigners foreigners for is intended for country the entering busin over- (www. (www.

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Some organisations and and organisations Some For those arriving in the those For an on- of proof Without Thai- in stay plan to If you disabilitytravel.com) sail.com) sees immigration and visas visas and immigration sees Check the website issues. Thai embassy or the nearest application for or consulate and costs. procedures international travel include travel international the following: publications that o that publications diving programs for the deaf the deaf for programs diving hearing. of and hard Non-Immigrant Visas The Non-Immigrant Visa and 90 days for is good kingdom by air, a 30-day visa visa a 30-day air, by kingdom For without a fee. is issued a land bor- arriving via those is 15 days. visa the arrival der, and su ticket ward (or than 30 days land longer you land arrivals), for 15 days the 60-day should apply for Thai a from Visa Tourist before or embassy consulate the nearest Contact trip. your or consulate Thai embassy proce- application obtain to for fees and determine dures visas. tourist Exemptions allows Thai government The for exemptions tourist-visa 41 di Aus- from including those the USA Zealand, New tralia, enter to Europe, of and most a prear- without the country visa. ranged Tourist Visas Tourist & projected one’s funds for be de- can visitor any stay but in practice nied entry, that is this is a formality checked. rarely Visas The Society for Accessible Accessible for Society Hospitality & Travel Mobility International Mobility International USA Accessible Journeys Accessible Sail sath.org) Affairs

VISAS

DIRECTORY A-Z 766 767 DIRECTORY A-Z WOMEN TRAVELLERS irting fl make themselves available. available. themselves make interested aren’t who Women encounters romantic in such Thai that presume not should platonic merely men have Frivolous motives. could unintentionally cause a cause unintentionally could face of loss a feel Thai man to diverted is then if attention in and, person another to is alcohol where cases some the spurned man involved, or unpleasant become may violent. even lled with lled that fi ff nding their nding fi Thai men will While Bangkok might be a might be Bangkok While might escape your notice in notice your might escape environment a new people. hospitable for- some, to paradise men’s are eign women own Romeos on the Thai Thai on the Romeos own couples more As beaches. emerge, more home from a bar alone, be alone, a bar from home about wits your have to sure rides accepting Avoid you. at night late strangers from in iso- around or travelling – yourself by areas lated stu sense common ending Thais’ Thais’ ending ff Attacks and rapes are not not are and rapes Attacks dressing like a bar girl and and girl a bar like dressing strap spaghetti wear can you shirts and navel-bearing tops trendy) still were they (if only o without be But to streak. modesty up if cover side, on the safe rural deep into going you’re And certainly communities. if visiting temples. up cover but Thailand, in common especially do occur, incidents observes when an attacker a drunk target: a vulnerable return If you woman. or solo 768 Suvarnabhumi Interna- tional Airport (BKK; %0 2132 1888) Receives nearly all international flights and most domestic flights. It is located in Samut Prakan – 30km east of Bangkok and 110km from Pattaya. The airport name is pronounced sù·wan·ná·poom. Don Muang Airport (DMK; %0 2535 1111) Bangkok’s second airport is still used for domestic flights operated by Nok Air and Orient Thai (formerly One-Two-Go). Be aware of this when booking connecting flights on these airlines. Phuket International Airport (HKT; %0 7632 7230) International Asian Transport destinations include Hong Kong, Singapore and Bali on Air Asia. Direct charter GETTING THERE picked up at the immigration flights from Europe are also counter. available. & AWAY You do not have to fi ll in Chiang Mai International Flights, tours and rail tick- a customs form on arrival Airport (CNX; www.chiang ets can be booked online unless you have imported maiairportonline.com) Inter- at www.lonelyplanet.com/ goods to declare. In that national Asian destinations bookings. case, you can get the proper include Kuala Lumpur, Taipei form from Thai customs of- and Singapore. fi cials at your point of entry. Entering the See p 761 for Thai customs Airlines Country information about minimum The following airlines fl y to funds requirements. and from Bangkok. Entry procedures for Thai- Air Asia (%0 2515 9999; land, by air or by land, are www.airasia.com) straightforward: you’ll have to show your passport (see Air Air Berlin (%0 2236 9779; www.airberlin.com) p 766 for information about Airports visa requirements); and you’ll Air Canada (%0 2670 0400; Bangkok is Thailand’s pri- www.aircanada.com) need to present completed mary international and Air China (%0 2634 8991; arrival and departure cards. domestic gateway. There www.fly-airchina.com) Blank arrival and departure are also smaller airports cards are usually distributed throughout the country serv- Air France (%0 2610 0808; on the incoming fl ight or, ing domestic and sometimes www.airfrance.fr) if arriving by land, can be inter-regional routes.

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater

distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites off er ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to off set the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contribu- tions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet off - sets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel. TRANSPORT 769 c border border c fi that the rm fi There are several border border several are There Air fares during the high during fares Air Train Thailand’s and Malaysia’s at But- meet railways state of south (93km terworth the Thai–Malaysian border), point to which is a transfer Kuala or to boat) (by Penang (by Lumpur and Singapore train). Malaysian can which you for crossings the border to a train take automo- to and then switch the other on bile transport The Thai–Cambodian side. Aranya of crossing border and the Poipet to Prathet Nong of Thai–Lao crossing two are Vientiane Khai to examples. Bus, Car & Motorcycle be- exist connections Road neigh- Thailand’s all of tween can routes and these bours, shared bus, by be travelled In some car. taxi and private the a bus to take you’ll cases, through pass point, border then pick up and immigration taxi bus or shared another In other side. on the other when cross- especially cases, the border, ing the Malaysian immigration for bus will stop then continue and formalities the across destination its to border. to ‘come back tomorrow’. tomorrow’. back ‘come to booking made a you’ve After the call deposit, your or paid and con airline Land borders land shares Thailand Cam- Malaysia, with Laos, Travel bodia and Myanmar. coun- these all of between land via be done by can tries crossings. border sanctioned it highways, improved With to easier becoming is also China. Thailand to from travel speci for 770 p See booking was made. was booking March) to (December season be expensive. can points immigration crossing summaries. and transport 0 0 %

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( % ( 1126; www. 1126; % ( 0 2288 7000; www. 0 2288 7000; % ( er port check-ins, ﬀ 0 2635 1410; www.flysaa. 0 2635 1410; ers protection, because because protection, ers ﬀ % 4137; www.vietnamair.com.vn) 4137; 2637 5151; www.bruneiair.com) 2637 flyorientthai.com) thaiair.com) 2353 6000; www.singaporeair. com) Interna- Airways Thai tional Airlines United Airlines Vietnam Tickets – when cases In some neighbouring to travelling domestic or to countries con- – it is still destinations agent a travel use to venient The in Thailand. amount an agent commission of so varies often will charge the gauge to shop around Pay- in prices. discrepancy generally card credit ing by o provide issuers card most you prove can if you refunds for. paid what you get didn’t only cash who accept Agents the tickets should hand over you tell and not straightaway Orient Thai Thai Orient Philippine Airlines Airways Qantas Royal Brunei Airlines Airlines Scandinavian Singapore Airlines South African Airways ( com) 3939; www.ual.com) 3939; 2800; www.qantas.com.au) 2263 0565; www.philippineair 2263 0565; lines.com) 2645 8200; www.flysas.com) 2645 8200;

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All foreign-registered private vessels, skippers and skippers vessels, private All foreign-registered 0 2610 0800; www.klm. 0 2610 0 2263 0606; www.cathay 0 2263 0606; You can cross into and out of Thailand via public boat Thailand via public boat and out of into cross can You island of the Malaysian to Andaman coast the from Langkawi. as Thai authorities check in with the relevant must crew Although Thai waters. entering after as possible soon Thailand o throughout major ports Krabi, check in at Phuket, visitors leisure-boating most from departing Before or Pattaya. Pranburi Samui, Ko check out with immi- also must you boat, Thailand by and the harbourmaster. customs gration, TRAVELLING BY BOAT TO/FROM TO/FROM BOAT TRAVELLING BY THAILAND % % 9898; www.china-airlines.com) 9898; www.maiair.com) evaair.com) 7146; www.nepalairlines.com.np) 7146; www.koreanair.com) 1701; www.britishairways.com) 1701; 8280; www.airnewzealand.com) 2679 7371; www.garuda 7371; 2679 -indonesia.com) Delta Airlines China Airlines China ( 6900; www.delta.com) 6900; 2264 2400; www.lufthansa. 2264 2400; com) Myanmar Airways Inter- national Airlines Nepal Lufthansa Airlines Lufthansa Airlines Malaysia Korean Air Airlines Lao Jetstar Airways Jetstar Airlines Dutch KLM-Royal Gulf Air Gulf Airlines Japan Eva Air Indonesia Garuda Emirates Cathay Pacific Airways ( Bangkok Airways Airways British Air New Zealand 5125; www.jetstar.com) 9520; www.jal.co.jp) 9520; com) pacific.com) 2263 0565; www.mas.com.my) www.bangkokair.com) www.gulfairco.com) www.emirates.com) 9822; www.laoairlines.com)

(p 485 ) The third (p 495 ) The second (p 333 ) A popular cross- A ) 333 (p Friendship Bridge spans this spans Bridge Friendship River the Mekong of section and is the main transport the two between gateway Nong Khai is eas- countries. or bus train by ily reached Bangkok. from Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge Bridge Thai-Lao Friendship link a trilateral provides and Laos Thailand, between Vietnam. Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge Bridge Thai-Lao Friendship completion for is scheduled 2011. in late Nakhon Phanom to Tha Tha to Phanom Nakhon Khaek Chong Mek to Vangtao Chiang Khong Huay to Xai Savanna- to Mukdahan khet ing that links northern Thai- northern ing that links land and Chiang Mai with via boat. Luang Prabang (p 442 ) On the Thai side, the the Thai side, the ) On 442 (p via accessed is best border and is a Ubon Ratchathani to transiting for option good the Lao side). (on Pakse include crossings Remote ; 480 (p Paksan to Bueng Kan be arranged must Lao visas Kaen Tha Li to in advance), char- ; requires 473 Thao (p and Ban transport) tered Muang Ngeun to Kon Huay (p 348 ).

Bicycle touring is also a popular way to see the the see to a popular way is also touring Bicycle BICYCLE TRAVEL IN THAILAND BICYCLE Bangkok, outside about anywhere just travelling For cheap, – transport local of form an ideal are bicycles travel- allow enough to moving and slow nonpolluting in many hired be can Bicycles everything. see to lers as little as 50B for houses, guest especially locations, secur- A high-quality. always aren’t though they per day, usually required. isn’t deposit ity roomy and have sealed are roads and most country, bikes, high on imported are duties Because shoulders. bike own bring your to do better you’ll cases in most No special one here. than purchase Thailand rather to the coun- into a bicycle bringing needed for are permits – which customs by be registered it may although try, bicycle, with your the country leave don’t if you means bring to advisable It’s duty. a customs pay to have you’ll kit. repair a well-stocked (p 329 ) A slow boat travels travels boat slow A ) 329 (p from River along the Mekong China’s to Thailand northern Province. Yunnan (p 468 ) The first Thai-Lao (p 333 ) The China–Thai- 3) was (Rte land highway opium smug- a former that has been gling trail a major into modernised shipping transnational paved The 1800km of route. in Kunming, between road to Province, Yunnan China’s one missing is still Bangkok Thai-Lao vital link: the fourth (at Chiang Bridge Friendship Xai) across Khong-Huay which is River, the Mekong be completed to projected the Meanwhile in 2014. and boat is done by crossing the Lao from leave buses Xai. Huay of town Nong Khai to Vientiane to Khai Nong Chiang Saen to Jinghong to Saen Chiang LAOS cross to free hassle It is fairly northern from Laos into Thailand and northeastern (US$30 Lao visas Thailand. be obtained can US$42) to and applications on arrival photo. a passport require Chiang Khong to Mengla to Khong Chiang Chinese town of Daluo, but Daluo, of town Chinese has been closed this border 2005. since

ghting at ghting ﬁ or other cate ﬁ ) (p 217 The coastal (p 212 ) A backdoor Another rail line travels to to travels line rail Another It was once also possible possible also once It was the Malaysian east coast bor- coast east the Malaysian but Kolok, Sungai of der town violence ongoing of because we South Deep Thailand’s in this route recommend don’t travellers. for (p 501 ) The most direct land direct The most ) 501 (p and Bangkok between route Wat. Angkor route from Ko Chang (via Chang (via Ko from route Battambang Chanthaburi) to Wat. and Angkor cross- remote more Several include O Smach to ings ally Chong Chom (periodic due to closed Khao Phra Wihan) and Chong Wihan) Khao Phra but they Choam, Ngam to Sa as you’ll as convenient aren’t transport private hire to have taxi) on a shared of (instead the the Cambodian side of border. to travel overland from the from overland travel to through Mae Sai of Thai town the and across Myanmar the Mong La to near border CHINA in infra- an increase With of the interior structure linked now China is southern and northern with Laos making it possible Thailand, directly somewhat travel to countries. two the between your arrange need to You’ll depar- prior to visa Chinese or in Bangkok ideally ture, Chiang Mai. Pong Nam Ron to Pai- lin Hat Lek to Krong Koh Kong Aranya Prathet to Poipet to Prathet Aranya Cambodian tourist visas at the border available are though some US$20, for Bring 1200B. charge borders and try to photo a passport the runner of some avoid a issue to who want boys certi health Border Crossings CAMBODIA ad- for paperwork ‘medical’ ditional fees. crossing for travellers travellers for crossing Chang/ Ko to/from heading Sihanoukville.

LAND

TRANSPORT 770

771 TRANSPORT LAND M Nakhon Phanom PENH Ubon PHNOM

Flight Path Railways V I E T N A A N T E I V V I E T N A M V I E T N A Ratchathani 1600 Sakon 00 km 150 miles 90 Nakhon 2600 C A M B O D I A 2600 Buriram Roi Et G U L F O F VIENTIANE T H A I L A N D Nong Khai Khon Kaen Udon Thani (discounts available on most flights). Note these fares are subject to change. Full one-way economy air fares in baht Aranya Prathet Trat L A O S 1350 2600 Kota Bharu 1500 1800 2000 2500 Narathiwat 1550 2090 1570 Nakhon Loei 1500 1700 Ratchasima Sattahip Nan 1750 Ayuthaya 1690 Sungai Kolok 1500 M A L A Y S I A 2790 4160 Padang Besar Phitsanulok Phrae Pattaya Lopburi 2900 2800 1290 3600 Hat Yai 3480 990 Ko Chiang Rai Chiang Trang 1951 Samui 2450 Lampang 3800 1399 Nakhon Si 1655 Chumphon Thammarat Kanchanaburi 4400 BANGKOK 2800 1890 1470 Sukhothai Pai Nam Tok Surat Thani Krabi Kantang 1890 1899 2380 1480 1590 Mai Sot Chiang Mai Ranong Phuket 3000 (B U R M A) (B U R S E A I N D I A N Mae Hong Son O C E A N M Y A N M A R M Y A A N D A M A N Air-Fares & Train Routes Map Routes & Train Air-Fares n ŏ rót rót (bò·rí·sàt k (bò·rí·sàt c and reliable, and is and reliable, c ﬁ usually abbreviated to to usually abbreviated By far the most reliable reliable the most far By recommend do not We Increasingly though, Between the mainland and and mainland the Between sòng), Every (BKS). Saw Khaw Baw Thailand in town and city sta- has a BKS bus by linked of a patch just if it’s even tion, the road. the side of dirt by Thailand in bus companies out that operate ones the are BKS the government-run of the cases In some stations. state entirely are companies are they in others owned, concessions. private that using bus companies tourist out of directly operate Th Bangkok’s like centres, re- of because Khao San, and theft of instances peated stops. commission-seeking the Dangers read to Be sure in the sections Annoyances & chapters destination relevant bus scams of be aware to and problems. the middle- are minivans are Minivans option. class companies private run by their vehicles and because depart can they smaller are (instead the market from bus sta- the out-of-town of guests and will deliver tions) Just their hotel. to directly you so sit in the front don’t dare- the driver’s see don’t techniques! devil Bus Classes and slow- The cheapest the are buses est Bus Minivan & The bus network in Thailand is proli a great way to see the coun- see to way a great and sit among the tryside The Thai government locals. Transport the subsidises Company islands in the Gulf of Thailand Thailand of in the Gulf islands the Sea, Andaman or the is a wooden craft standard with long, 10m 8m to boat, a wheel- engine, an inboard roof and a simple house and passengers shelter to expen- more Faster, cargo. are or jetfoils hovercraft sive areas. in tourist available

ord- ﬀ (long-

hng yow ă so-called because because so-called

reu·a h THAI operates many many THAI operates tail boat), the propeller is mounted at is mounted the propeller shaft a long drive the end of the engine. from extending a are boats The long-tail on rivers transport of staple and in Bangkok and canals neighbouring provinces. (p 375 ) At the time of re- the time of At ) 375 (p was border this search it In the event closed. only is this border reopens, the trip into open as a day market. Myawadi Boat transport Thai river true The is the GETTING AROUND Air the country Hopping around be a to air continues by originate routes Most able. but Chiang Bangkok, from and Phuket Samui Ko Mai, other to routes a few all have Thai the See Thai towns. and routes map for Air-fares airline for costs; estimated the see information, contact sections. city respective from air routes domestic capi- provincial to Bangkok Air is another Bangkok tals. carrier. domestic established Air are Thai and Nok Orient carriers. budget the domestic use this border as a way to to a way as border this use as it visas Thai their renew Mai Chiang to is convenient Rai. and Chiang Kawthoung to Ranong Mae Sot to Myawadi Three Pagodas Pass (p 190 ) This crossing has foreigners to been closed clo- its to Prior 2006. since open was the border sure, the Burmese to trips day for only and no market border extensions/renewals visa issued. were (p 603 ) This is a popular This is a ) 603 (p in the point visa-renewal Thailand. of part southern

(p 600 ) While this (p 692 ) Boats shuttle ) Boats 692 (p from this mainland port to this mainland port to from and Langkawi the island of Kuala of the mainland town Perlis. (p 322 ) This is the only ) 322 (p which through crossing beyond travel can foreigners although town, the border and subject is limited travel regulations. extensive to the bridge Interestingly, border the two that spans Hsing-han’s is Lo towns pas- ‘Golden Triangle’ former the opium and for sageway travellers Many trade. heroin Buses originate out of the out of originate Buses Hat of town transit southern of a variety to en route Yai Bor- destinations. Malaysian handled are der formalities con- to Due Besar. at Padang in the Deep tinued violence recommend do not we South taking this route. Mae Sai to Tachileik Most of the land crossings the land crossings of Most restric- have Myanmar into full allow tions that don’t Border the country. to access un- subject to also are points which closures, announced a day from anywhere last can years. to MYANMAR Satun-Langkawi/Kuala Satun-Langkawi/Kuala Perlis Ko Lipe to Langkawi to Lipe Ko Sungai Kolok to Kota Bahru Hat to Padang Yai Besar Hat to Butterworth Yai Malaysia, especially the west west the especially Malaysia, via reach to is easy coast, boat. and even train bus, MALAYSIA (p 595 ) (p 595 The western spur line originating the train of at terminates in Bangkok the mainland Butterworth, Penang. point to transfer days popular these Less in the Deep unrest due to South. (p 691 ) Boats provide a provide ) Boats 691 (p link high-season convenient Anda- two these between man islands. border crossing is a possibil- crossing border violence the continued ity, South Deep Thailand’s in rec- do not that we means route. ommend this overland

AIR

TRANSPORT 772

773 TRANSPORT CAR & MOTORCYCLE Trat

729

Tak

727 707 Surat Thani Surat

965

1072 1066 Sungai Kolok Sungai areas -road

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791 1593 1694 1700 Phuket

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146 572 690 / ﬃ 1227 1657 1029 Nong Khai Nong

411 557 443 883 1268 1466 1896 Nakhon Sawan Nakhon

(petrol containing benzene) benzene) containing (petrol Fuel & Spare Fuel Parts (gasoline) Modern petrol in plentiful supply are stations Thailand wherever all over In roads. paved are there o more-remote, ben·sin booked through most hotels hotels most through booked but it’s agency, travel or any through book directly to best a bus o for. pay what you get you Car & Motorcycle Licence Driving who wish visitors Short-term (including vehicles drive to motorcycles) in Thailand Driving need an International Permit.

728 276 354 996 1091 1755 1288 1462 Nakhon Ratchasima Nakhon

163 524 435 359 544 760 909 1107 1357 Mukdahan 157 754 347 886 320 608 1857 1427 1229 1000

the Mae Sai Mae ﬀ

547 528 263 958 982 1119 1155 1774 1237 1576 2204 Mae Hong Son Hong Mae

514 578 474 432 945 969 1142 1106 1397 2126 1498 1696 Khon Kaen Khon

717 313 193 441 166 277 558 295 842 829 1102 1730 1300 Hua Hin Hua

597 799 667 633 760 886 469 496 560 603 440 1107 1097 1029 Hat Yai Hat ôm’, when passengers when passengers ôm’,

401 810 287 474 1917 1413 1570 1370 1443 1407 1839 1250 1306 1603 1609

đ Chumphon The service on these on these The service the journeys overnight On 412 214 765 872 555 842 829 269 709 866 902 1139 1376 1298 1029 1068

distance trips, as the air-con as the air-con trips, distance cold. the cabin make can good is usually quite buses some- routes and on certain beverage a includes times courtesy and video, service young a ‘air hostess’, an of in a polyes- dressed woman uniform. ter some- usually stop buses ‘midnight for en route where kôw o get to awakened are bus for a free meal of rice rice of meal a free bus for soup. Reservations BKS book air-con can You terminal. BKS at any buses can- buses (fan) Ordinary in advance. be booked not be can run buses Privately Chiang Rai Chiang

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731 531 777 767 367 397 335 524 563 262 392 845 298 929 607 204 609 1359 1072 Aranya Prathet Aranya 581 816 727 601 275 927 535 285 432 239 458 598 246 444 844 1125 1013 1014 1555 1268 1082 (ordinary fan fan (ordinary (sleeper bus). (sleeper The bulk of the bus service the bus service The bulk of It is handy to bring along It is handy to Ayuthaya Bangkok Chiang Mai Chiang Rai Chumphon Hat Yai Hua Hin Khon Kaen Mae Hong Son Mae Sai Mukdahan Nan Nong Khai Phitsanulok Phuket Sungai Kolok Surat Thani Tak Trat Ubon Ratchathani Nakhon Ratchasima ROAD DISTANCES (KM) DISTANCES ROAD buses) that stop in every in every that stop buses) wav- every and for little town ing hand along the highway. ordinary these of a few Only or locations in rural buses, still destinations, local for been have most since exist buses. air-con by replaced comfortable more is faster, called buses, air-con tam·má·dah o routes Longer (air bus). air- of classes two at least and 1st 2nd class buses: con toilets. have the latter class; buses VIP’ ‘Super and ‘VIP’ that each so seats fewer have further; some- reclines seat called are these times norn long- for especially a jacket,

c c ffi úk dúk; úk aloes. ff đ contend contend ag a taxi or erent types types erent fl ff a•ou ă is having to is having rng•t In some of the national of In some ŏ c is lighter but you have to to have you but c is lighter of vehicles on the same same on the vehicles of túk- bicycles, – trucks, road túk (‘pronounced and transport) motorised is This danger motorcycles. the by compounded often In vil- lights. working lack of traf- vehicular the areas lage fi chickens, with stray contend bu and water dogs driv- some which is why bus, a and point to might stop ers if one is nearby. bus stop public isn’t there where parks often Thais are transport pick up a passenger willing to the the side of by standing road. Local Transport City Bus & S city- has the largest Bangkok in the country, bus system Thani and a few while Udon have capitals provincial other The bus services. city some riding public for etiquette at a bus wait is to buses by vehicle and hail the stop hand palm-side your waving pay typically You downward. a taken you’ve once the fare when cases, in some or, seat disembark. you Hitching is never entirely safe safe entirely is never Hitching don’t and we country in any Travellers it. recommend should hitch who decide to are that they understand taking a small but potentially is rarely Hitching risk. serious Thailand, in days these seen motorists passing most so the inten- realise might not stand- the foreigner tions of the road ing on the side of Thais don’t with a thumb out. when they ‘thumb it’; instead their wave a ride they want facing hand with the palm This is the same the ground. to used gesture ing in Thailand, besides the the besides Thailand, in ing tra for disregard general di many with so Hitching laws, laws, nd fi ows fl ashing fl c is c ffi c. A c. ffi c law, but it’s the reality. the reality. but it’s c law, ffi Indicators are often used used often are Indicators tra In Bangkok Outside of the capital, the the capital, of Outside The main rule to be aware be aware The main rule to ash their lights, they’re tell- they’re ash their lights, Maximum speed limits are are Maximum speed limits and roads 50km/h on urban on most 100km/h 80km/h to given – but on any highways see you’ll highway of stretch travelling vehicles various as 30km/h and as as slowly Speed traps as 150km/h. fast along Hwy 4 in common are Hwy 2 in the and the south northeast. about drivers passing warn to tra oncoming to OK it’s means indicator left while a right indicator pass, ap- that someone’s means di- the other from proaching tell to used Horns are rection. that the driver vehicles other When drivers pass. plans to fl pass. to not ing you chaotic, roads are poorly are roads chaotic, and motorcycles signposted contra and random mean you can suddenly can you mean cars of a wall facing yourself way. the other coming when driv- hazard principal Road Rules & Hazards on the left-hand Thais drive the of (most the road side of just Other than that, time!). in spite goes, about anything signs and speed limits. road of goes way of is that right of this is vehicle; the bigger to Thai in the what it says not tra Insurance a minimum requires Thailand all for insurance liability of on the vehicles tered regis compa- hire The better road. include comprehensive nies their vehicles. for coverage a vehicle that verify Always before liability for is insured you contract; signing a rental the see ask to should also documents. insurance dated while an accident have If you vehicle, driving an uninsured major some in for you’re hassles. across the frame of the bike bike the of frame the across handling. improve to . BKK BKK (www.bkkautos.com)

erent octane levels, octane levels, erent ﬀ Motorcycles can be rented be rented can Motorcycles injured are tourists Many eets of cars tend to be older to tend cars of eets Auto in major towns and many and many in major towns from centres smaller tourist and small houses guest mum-and-dad businesses. in a motorcycle Renting easy Thailand is relatively independ- to way and a great the countryside. ently tour busi- most daily rentals, For leave will ask that you nesses as a deposit. passport your a motorcycle, renting Before condition check the vehicle’s (which a helmet and ask for law). by is required Thai- in riding motorcycles don’t they land because handle the ve- to how know with unfamiliar hicle and are and conditions. rules road when especially slowly, Drive dam- avoid to slick, are roads the and to yourself to age have to be sure and vehicle, If insurance. health adequate a motor- driven never you’ve the to stick before, cycle step-through smaller 100cc clutch- with automatic bikes distribute to Remember es. as possible as evenly weight Hire & Purchase be can and vans jeeps Cars, major cities most in rented com- local from and airports as international as well panies tend companies Local chains. the than rates cheaper have to but their chains, international ﬂ maintained. as well and not and treads Check the tyre the vehicle of upkeep general committing. before is usually available at small at available is usually All stands. or village roadside is unleaded, Thailand fuel in trucks by used is and diesel cars. passenger and some introduced Thailand In 2007, fuels, alternative several (a blend of including gasohol that comes and ethanol petrol in di 95%) and com- or either 91% by used gas, natural pressed capabilities. taxis with bifuel about and updates news For car other and fuel options, of the website see talk,

HITCHING

TRANSPORT 774 775 TRANSPORT TOURS Volun- Vol- (www. (www. High-end

Charity Charity (www. Float Float

(www.intre (www.

(www.isan Variety of Variety

(www.

Specialises in in Specialises (www.tigertrail Custom tours tours Custom Nature, culture culture Nature,

(www.i-to-i.com) (www.i-to-i.com) in provid- helpful are ff by Lonely Planet Planet Lonely by c is light and old- ffi regional regional cycling programs. unteer tourism and village village and tourism unteer programs. sightseeing orient-express.com) orient-express.com) bike ride organiser covering covering ride organiser bike throughout routes touring the country. pidtravel.com) pidtravel.com) cruisemekong.com) to the northeast. to common of luxury tours in places and uncommon Thailand. tours trekking and strenuous Chiang Mai and around northern Thailand. explorer.com) explorer.com) Orient Express Orient Roads Spice Trails Tiger Thailand de Tour Hands Up Holidays Up Hands Intrepid Travel ExplorerIsan I-to-I Cruises Mekong small-group travel geared geared travel small-group people. young towards down the mighty river river the mighty down vessel. an elegant aboard handsupholidays.com) handsupholidays.com) thailand.com) on- and off-the-beaten-path and off-the-beaten-path on- destinations. teer tourism and gap-year and gap-year tourism teer programs. tourdethailand.com) spiceroads.com) ash and sparkle. fl Chasing Rickshaws, (www.asiantrails.

are three-wheeled pedicabs that are typically typically that are pedicabs three-wheeled are is the motorised túk-túk. They’re small utility small utility They’re túk-túk. is the motorised

ering ‘voluntour- ering ﬀ HM·LÓR & TÚK-TÚK & HM·LÓR The modern era’s version of the human-powered the human-powered of version The modern era’s With either form of transport the fare must be es- must the fare transport of either form With may and design lore in pedicab interested Readers hm·lór hm·lór Ă ă Tour operator that runs that runs operator Tour ă S S tra where in small towns found Wheeler. Tony founder fashioned ways persist. ways fashioned s LPG- (usually engines screaming by powered vehicles, of and a lot powered) tablished by bargaining before departure. In tourist In tourist departure. before bargaining tablished by for- overcharge grossly often drivers túk-túk centres, should be the fare much how of a sense have so eigners sta Hotel a ride. soliciting before suggestions. fare ing reasonable pic- hardcover Planet’s a look at Lonely have to want book, torial info) programs for overseas bro- overseas for programs include a mix of trips kers; Asian Trails Asian Taxi formal the most has Bangkok In taxis. metered of system be ataxi can a cities, other with negotiable vehicle private be- travel also can You rates. taxi but you’ll by cities tween a price negotiate need to will run a taxi drivers as few travel. intercity for meter Tours the around operators Many guided arrange can world of Most Thailand. of tours brokers as them simply serve based companies tour for The in Thailand. better tour build their own companies from Thailand itineraries their local and choose scratch best on which based suppliers Many itineraries. these serve o now are which means programs, ism’ might buy lunch for that you a hospital visit an orphanage, in class an English or teach Also sightseeing. addition to see Volunteering (p 766 ) if alternative looking for you’re experiences. travelling

a·ou nd fi ă (100cc (100cc xed xed rng·t fi ŏ s two with tted anywhere along anywhere (a small pick- (a small might also run might also fi ’). a·ou a·ou a·ou c jams. c ă ă ă ffi eu·sai ráp jâhng đ Depending on the region, on the region, Depending In most cities, you’ll you’ll cities, In most Elsewhere, Elsewhere, public rng·t rng·t rng·t xed route from the centre centre the from route xed fi ŏ ŏ ŏ of town to outlying areas or outlying areas to town of within the prov- points even ve- these Sometimes inces. six-wheeled larger are hicles called (sometimes vehicles ‘rót hòk lór a its route and pay the fare the fare and pay route its disembark. when you s motorcycle taxis clustered clustered taxis motorcycle intersections, street near the than cruising rather fares. looking for streets numbered wear they Usually run to tend Fares jerseys. depend- 50B, to 10B from and you’ll ing on distance the price establish need to The exception beforehand. the soi where is in Bangkok a stand- taxis are motorcycle 10B. ard can be chartered just like a like just be chartered can need but you’ll taxi, regular before- the fare negotiate to usually hail a can You hand. s up truck out up truck for benches of rows facing They some- passengers). on operate times routes, just like buses, but buses, like just routes, run a share- also may they pick they where taxi service in the going up passengers In direction. general same centres, tourist Motorcycle Taxi Motorcycle Thailand have in cities Many mor· to 125cc motorcycles) that motorcycles) 125cc to with a driver, be hired, can If you’re short distances. for or travelling empty-handed can’t they with a small bag, in a transport for be beaten pinch. Bangkok is the only city in is the only city Bangkok an above- have Thailand to and underground ground sys- public transport light-rail as the Skytrain Known tem. respectively, and the Metro, helped to have systems both notori- the capital’s alleviate ous tra Mass Transit Mass transport is provided by by provided is transport s (passenger at least two two at least nd that all train fi It is advisable to make make to is advisable It trips short-distance For on tickets refunds Partial Most train stations have have stations train Most ce. ffi Pick up booking. rming the weeks before your journey. journey. your before weeks email con- an will receive You fi an hour tickets for and pay at the sched- leaving before station. train uled departure long- for bookings advanced be- trains sleeper distance and Chiang Bangkok tween Su- to Bangkok Mai or from around especially Thani, rat April and peak in Songkran months of tourist-season January. and December your should purchase you in ad- a day at least ticket than (rather seats for vance sleepers). depending on available are prior to days the number of arrange you departure your ar- These a cancellation. for be handled can rangements booking station at the train o way of Thailand Station Services Station You’ll Thailand have in stations (or services baggage-storage stations Most rooms’). ‘cloak that window a ticket have 15 and 30 will open between arrivals. train before minutes newsagents also are There but and small snack vendors, restaurants. no full-service in English; timetables printed always although this isn’t smaller stations. for the case Hua Lamphong Bangkok’s load to spot is a good station up on timetables. [email protected]) ess, ess, State Rail- – A typical 3rd- typical A – special expr rapid, ordinary). ordinary). rapid, class carriage consists of two two of consists carriage class divided bench seats of rows bench Each pairs. facing into two seat to is designed seat but on passengers, or three line nobody rural a crowded Express care. to seems 3rd-class carry do not trains Commuter at all. carriages area in the Bangkok trains class. all 3rd are Advance bookings can be can bookings Advance 60 days one to made from date intended your before make can You departure. of any from person in bookings can tickets Train station. train at travel be purchased also which usually add agencies, the ticket to charge a service planning are If you price. travel train long-distance you the country, outside from should email the Costs a on determined are Fares with surcharges price base and class distance, added for ( type train express, added if are charges Extra and air-con has the carriage sleeping berths (either for upper or lower). Reservations Third Class Third train. On 2nd-class sleeper 2nd-class On train. one face seats of pairs cars, two into and convert another The lower berths. fold-down headroom more berth has berth and thisthan the upper in a higher fare. is reflected assigned always are Children Second-class berth. a lower on only found are carriages trains. and express rapid and fan air-con are There carriages. 2nd-class and (SRT; (SRT; State – The seating The seating – – Private cabins cabins – Private Thai cookbook (www.thaifoodand

c is a consideration.

ﬃ The 4500km rail network network rail The 4500km 1690; www.railway.co.th) 1690; author offers personalised personalised offers author of tours immersion’ ‘cultural Thailand. travel.com) Second Class Second First Class First The SRT operates passenger passenger operates The SRT – 1st, classes in three trains class – but each 2nd and 3rd depend- considerably varies on an you’re ing on whether or express rapid ordinary, train. car- the 1st-class define available which are riages, and express only on rapid, trains. special-express Classes %

covers four main lines: the main lines: four covers north- southern, northern, All lines. and eastern eastern originate trains long-distance Hua Lam- Bangkok’s from phong station. Train con- system train Thailand’s the of corners the four nects conveni- and is most country buses to ent as an alternative north to the long journey for Surat to Chiang Mai or south ideal is also The train Thani. and Ayuthaya to short trips for where Bangkok from Lopburi tra the by is operated Tours with Tours KasmaLoha- Unchit arrangements in a 2nd-class, in a 2nd-class, arrangements are non-sleeper carriage on a bus, those similar to seats, padded of with pairs all facing usually recliners, the of the front towards Railway of Thailand

TRAIN

TRANSPORT 776 777 777 HEALTH INSURANCE

from (CDC; (CDC; cate of cate

ﬁ Centers Centers has a traveller’s has a traveller’s oxacin, Cipro- oxacin, ﬂ antihistamine – there are are – there antihistamine antifungal cream, eg cream, antifungal eg cream, antibacterial skin infec- for antibiotic diarrhoea for antibiotics

oxacin or Azithromycin for for Azithromycin or oxacin » » » » » Africa or South America you you America or South Africa if you see should check to vaccination. of proof require many options, eg Cetrizine eg Cetrizine options, many and Promethaz- daytime for night ine for Clotrimazole Muciprocin Amoxicillin/Clavu- eg tions, or Cephalexin lanate include Nor ﬂ giar- for diarrhoea; bacterial diasis or amoebic dysentery Tinidazole take Vaccination (otherwise known known (otherwise Vaccination which booklet), as the yellow vaccinations all the will list The received. you’ve Medical Checklist a for items Recommended kit include medical personal the following: ment (from yourself or your or your yourself (from ment admission. to prior insurer) about trip your before Inquire charges medical of payment all documentation and retain invoices reports, (medical claim purposes. for etc) Vaccinations Specialised travel-medicine of source best your are clinics which vaccina- on information tak- should consider tions you a should visit you Ideally ing. be- eight weeks six to doctor but it is never departure, fore for doctor your Ask late. too Certi an International health section that contains section health vac- for recommendations The only vaccine cinations. international by required fever. is yellow regulations will only vaccination of Proof visited have if you be required in the yellow-fever a country prior six days within the zone If you Thailand. entering to Thailand to travelling are www.cdc.gov) for Disease Control

do ee of pay- t and healthy, t and healthy, nd the exact fi fi c travel insurance. insurance. c travel fi cult to to cult ffi If you take any regular regular any take If you happen. You may require require may You happen. adventure for cover extra such as rock activities as well climbing or diving, rid- as scooter/motorcycle insurance health If your ing. medical for you cover doesn’t you ensure abroad, expenses speci get Most hospitals require an require hospitals Most guarant upfront Insurance if you’re Even health without travel don’t insurance – accidents BEFORE YOU GO YOU BEFORE in clearly medications Pack labelled original containers a signed and and obtain physi- your from letter dated medical your cian describing and medications conditions, If you or needles. syringes bring condition, a heart have electrocar- your of a copy just taken (ECG) diography travelling. prior to bring double medication loss of needs in case your can Thailand you In or theft. over medications buy many without a doc- the counter but it can prescription, tor’s be di taking. are you medication c c ffi Health Travellers tend to worry worry to tend Travellers Visitors to Thailand be- to Visitors is advice The following Health risks and the qual- and risks Health vary facilities medical of ity and depending on where Thailand. in travel you how the major of The majority ar- and popular tourist cities with developed well are eas excellent and even adequate travel However, care. medical can areas rural remote to health some to you expose adequate and less risks care. medical exotic about contracting when diseases infectious but such visiting the tropics, com- less far are infections with mon than problems condi- medical pre-existing disease, tions such as heart injury (es- and accidental tra of pecially as a result accidents). is way ill in some coming Respira- however. common, diarrhoea infections, tory par- are and dengue fever Thailand. in ticular hazards common most Fortunately or be prevented can illnesses treated. easily are guide and does a general of the advice replace not in travel trained a doctor medicine.

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. Such facilities are listed listed are Such facilities . ff Sedating Sedating antihistamines (by Lonely Planet) Planet) Lonely (by Availability & Cost of Health Care the considered is Bangkok ex- medical of centre nearest countries many for cellence Private Asia. in Southeast expensive more are hospitals facilities medical than other but o and English-speaking care of sta in the city under Information of sections other and some health of The cost this book. in cheap is relatively care to natural sunlight and re- sunlight natural to Some schedule. your adjust people IN THAILAND but it is not available in all available not but it is countries. such as dimenhydrinate or Prochlo- (Dramamine) are (Phenergan) rperazine usually the treating mo treating Their main side e Their main side drowsin Scopolamine is ginger. tive the considered are patches most e (published by the Thai the (published by ights ights fl ve time ve fi (by Dr Deborah Mills) Health guide- Health Mills) Deborah Dr (by uids (nonal- uids fl Country-specific advice. Country-specific uids (nonalco- uids fl Travelling Well Travelling Thailand in Living Healthy International & Health Travel Centers for Disease Control & Prevention Affairs Foreign of Department home country’s Your Healthy – Asia Travel & India Traveller’s Health: How to Stay Healthy Abroad

» » » » » » » Includes pretrip planning, emergency first aid, and aid, first emergency planning, pretrip Includes information. and disease immunisation Dr Richard Dawood) Considered the ‘health bible’ for for bible’ ‘health the Considered Dawood) Richard Dr holidays. international cdc.gov) Health guide published by the World Health Organiza- Health World the guide published by Health tion (WHO). FURTHER READING FURTHER book and website (www.travellingwell.com.au). book and website travellers. long-term for Recommended Cross) Red or the equivalent; register your trip, a helpful precau- a helpful trip, your register or the equivalent; disaster. a natural of tion in the event The chief symptom of DVT DVT of symptom The chief the develop- prevent To culty in breathing. Travel- breathing. in culty ffi Jet Lag Jet & Motion Sickness when lag is common Jet than more crossing in insomnia, it results zones; or nausea. malaise fatigue, lag try drinking jet avoid To of plenty to the lungs, where they can can they where the lungs, to life-threatening cause complications. the foot, of or pain is swelling but not usually ankle or calf, When a on one side. always the lungs, to travels blood clot and pain chest cause it may di symp- these of with any lers should immediately toms attention. medical seek on long DVT ment of light meals. and eating holic) exposure seek Upon arrival, you should walk about the should walk you isometric perform cabin, the leg of compressions the leg (ie contract muscles while sitting) and muscles of drink plenty risk at higher Those coholic). with a doc- should speak preventive extra about tor measures. y fl s or essarie ights, chie ights, fl and travel ers ff ff

such as scis- items rst-aid ucan tablet ucan ammatory Ural or equivalent if you if you equivalent or Ural sunscreen, sunscreen, sunglasses throat lozenges yeast thrush (vaginal steroid cream for allergic/ for cream steroid laxative, eg Coloxyl eg laxative, medicine – for migraine paracetamol impregnate to Permethrin ibuprofen or another anti- or another ibuprofen eg medication, indigestion hand gel (alcohol based) or based) (alcohol hand gel fi oral rehydration solution solution rehydration oral contraceptives decongestant repellent insect DEET-based antiseptic, eg Betadine eg antiseptic, stom- for antispasmodic fl fl

» » » » » » » » » » » » » » » » » » » because of prolonged immo- prolonged of because the journey, The longer bility. Though the risk. the greater reab- are blood clots most some uneventfully, sorbed o break may the blood vessels through Thrombosis (DVT) thrombosis vein Deep when blood clots occurs long during in the legs form such as trips Deep Deep Vein IN TRANSIT are prone to urine infections to prone are and hat eg treatment, infection) p Clotrimazole itchy rashes, eg 1% to 2% to eg 1% rashes, itchy hydrocortisone migraine su migraine if nets and mosquito clothing at high risk in or Mylanta Eze Quick alcohol-based hand wipes alcohol-based sors, Elastoplasts, bandages, bandages, Elastoplasts, sors, (but not thermometer gauze, sterile one with mercury), a (with and syringes needles pins safety letter), doctor’s and tweezers for diarrhoea (eg Gastro- (eg diarrhoea for (eg ‘stopper’ diarrhoea lyte), and antinausea Loperamide) medication ach cramps, eg Buscopan eg ach cramps, Di

DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS

HEALTH 778 779 HEALTH INFECTIOUS DISEASES u and u fl ective, ective, ects ects ff ff Most parts of Thailand vis- of parts Most Travellers are advised to to advised are Travellers choose choose accommodation with clothing impregnate and long sleeves wear use a DEET-containing a DEET-containing use sleep under a mosquito

» » » » » but must be repeatedly be repeatedly but must applied and fans with screens in high-risk areas Permethrin in light colours trousers insect repellent on exposed on exposed repellent insect such repellents skin; natural be e can as citronella with impregnated ideally net, Permethrin Leptospirosis is contracted Leptospirosis infected to exposure from com- – most water surface or rafting river monly after symptoms Early canyoning. the similar to very are Malaria is an enormous There misinformation amount of Ma- malaria. concerning a parasite by laria is caused of the bite by transmitted The mosquito. an infected of important symptom most but general malaria is fever, as head- such symptoms or cough diarrhoea, ache, – the occur also chills may as many symptoms same diagnosis A infections. other taking a only be made by can blood sample. particularly tourists, by ited have areas, and resort city malaria, no risk of minimal to side e and the risk of include headache and fever. and fever. include headache mild a very from vary It can disease. a fatal ailment to through is made Diagnosis and it is easily blood tests with Doxycycline. treated antimalarial taking from outweigh to is likely tablets the disease getting the risk of to travelling are If you itself. (unlikely areas high-risk rural medi- seek visitors), most for right medi- on the advice cal you. for and dosage cation by bites mosquito prevent steps: taking these ear infection may require require may infection ear treatment. antibiotic c fi u) fl uenza ( uenza fl erent serotype. erent ff uids, including sexual including sexual uids, fl of most risk in cant fi uenza Dengue can progress to to progress can Dengue fl c treatment, just rest and rest just c treatment, fi HIV the most one of is now HIV death of causes common of in people under the age prac- Always 50 in Thailand. getting avoid sex; safe tise or using unclean tattoos syringes. In in the year-round Present in tropics, Hepatitis B transmit- The only sexually can that (STD) disease ted vaccina- by be prevented by B is spread hepatitis tion, body of parts some In contact. the of 20% Thailand up to of carriers population are and usually are B, hepatitis The long- this. of unaware can consequences term cirrhosis cancer, include liver and death. include high symptoms runny aches, muscle fever, throat. and sore cough nose, common Flu is the most disease vaccine-preventable and travellers by contracted should consider everyone is no spe- There vaccination. ci Complications paracetamol. or middle- such as bronchitis Hepatitis A de- is risk in Bangkok The is still but there creasing signi and This food- the country. the virus infects waterborne (yellow jaundice causing liver, and nausea skin and eyes), is no speci There lethargy. treatment for hepatitis A. A. hepatitis for treatment be can it instances, In rare of the age over those for fatal Thailand to travellers All 40. against should be vaccinated A. hepatitis the more severe and life- and severe the more haemor- dengue threatening is this however fever, rhagic in tourists. uncommon very this increases The risk of have if you substantially with been infected previously then infected are dengue and with a di c fi Self-treatment may be be may Self-treatment over medication Buying treatment, just rest and para- and rest just treatment, aspirin take – do not cetamol increase as they or ibuprofen haemorrhaging. the risk of be diagnosed to a doctor See and monitored. Dengue Fever Dengue This mosquitoborne disease problematic is increasingly Asia, Southeast throughout As in the cities. especially only it can is no vaccine there avoiding by be prevented The mos- bites. mosquito dengue is a that carries quito insect- use so biter, daytime at all measures avoidance include Symptoms times. headache severe high fever, behind the eyes), (especially body aches and nausea previously was (dengue fever’). ‘breakbone as known a rash people develop Some and itchy) be very can (which The diarrhoea. experience Thailand islands of southern high-risk particularly are is no speci There areas. Cutaneous Larva Cutaneous Migrans by caused This disease, is hookworm, dog or cat on the common particularly The beaches Thailand. of as a small lump, starts rash like spreads and then slowly It is intensely a winding line. It is at night. especially itchy, with medica- treated easily be cut tions and should not out or frozen. Infectious Infectious Diseases Thailand compared to most most to compared Thailand countries. Western problem if your appropriate diar- traveller’s (eg is minor the carrying are you rhoea), and medication appropriate attend unable to are you or clinic a recommended hospital. recom- is not the counter medi- fake because mended, stored and poorly cations are drugs or out-of-date common. ne traveller’s traveller’s ne fi Here we de we Here – up ecting travellers ective so you must still still must you so ective ff ff ve shots of vaccine over 28 28 over vaccine of shots ve be careful with what you eat eat with what you be careful and drink. Traveller’s Diarrhoea far is by diarrhoea Traveller’s problem common the most a will suf- people 50% of to it of form some from fer starting of weeks within two 80% of In over their trip. is diarrhoea traveller’s cases, (there a bacteria by caused potential numerous are and responds culprits), with treatment to promptly antibiotics. Typhoid This serious bacterial infec- food through tion is spread a high It gives and water. fever, progressive and slowly and may headache, severe a dry by be accompanied It pain. and stomach cough blood tests by is diagnosed with antibiotics. and treated is recommended Vaccination spending all travellers for Thai- in than a week more of outside or travelling land, Be aware the major cities. 100% is not that vaccination e as the passage diarrhoea watery than three more of soon as possible, followed by by followed possible, as soon fi you If prevaccinated days. vac- of shots two need just apart. days three cine given STDs Sexually transmitted diseases Thailand in- in common most syphilis, warts, clude herpes, and chlamydia. gonorrhoea dis- these carrying People no signs of have often eases will pre- Condoms infection. and chlamy- gonorrhoea vent If or herpes. warts dia but not you encounter a sexual after dis- lumps, rash, any develop when passing or pain charge medical immediate urine seek been have If you attention. during your active sexually check on an STD have travels home. return your ed. fi edness. Treat- edness. If an animal bites you, you, If an animal bites Rabies disease fatal uniformly This or lick the bite by is spread animal – most an infected of a dog or monkey. commonly medical should seek You any after immediately advice and commence animal bite treatment. post-exposure vaccination a pretravel Having treatment the postbite means simpli is greatly gently wash the wound with with the wound wash gently and apply and water, soap If antiseptic. iodine-based prevaccinated not are you receive will need to you immunoglobulin as rabies c fi night sweats and tir night sweats oss, oss, Typhus – Murine typhus is spread by the bite of a of the bite by is spread typhus – Murine Typhus Tuberculosis – Medical and aid workers and long- and aid workers – Medical Tuberculosis Strongyloides – A parasite transmitted by skin con- by transmitted parasite A – Strongyloides Meliodosis – Contracted by skin contact with soil. with soil. skin contact by – Contracted Meliodosis Japanese B Encephalitis – Viral disease transmitted transmitted disease Viral – B Encephalitis Japanese Hepatitis E – Transmitted through contaminated food food contaminated through Transmitted E – Hepatitis Avian Influenza – Most of those infected have had have infected those of – Most Influenza Avian that is common disease mosquitoborne A Filariasis –

» » » » » » » » RARE BUT BE AWARE flea; scrub typhus is spread via a mite. Symptoms in- Symptoms via a mite. is spread typhus scrub flea; general Following and a rash. pains muscle clude fever, also will and doxycycline measures insect-avoidance them. prevent ment is available with long-term multidrug regimens. with long-term ment is available term travellers who have significant contact with the contact significant who have travellers term is Vaccination precautions. population should take local than three spending more children for recommended fever, are The main symptoms Thailand. months in l weight cough, tact with soil; common in local population. It is charac- population. in local common tact with soil; on the rash – a linear an unusual skin rash by terised infec- An overwhelming goes. and trunk which comes with medications. be treated It can follow. tion can Affects up to 30% of the local population in northeast- the local 30% of up to Affects those similar to very are The symptoms Thailand. ern is no There (TB) sufferers. tuberculosis by experienced with medications. be treated but it can vaccine by mosquitoes, typically occurring in rural areas; vac- areas; in rural occurring typically mosquitoes, by spending more travellers for cination is recommended expats. long-term or for cities than one month outside and water and has similar symptoms to hepatitis A; A; hepatitis to symptoms and has similar and water Follow women. in pregnant problem be a severe can and drinking guidelines. eating safe close contact with sick or dead birds. dead with sick or contact close mosquito-avoidance practise population; in the local measures. use mosquito coils mosquito use with room your spray

» » This highly contagious viral viral This highly contagious through is spread infection Most and sneezing. coughing 1966 are people born before had the dis- immune as they Measles in childhood. ease and with a high fever starts be complicated and can rash pneumonia and brain by is no speci There disease. Measles treatment. Ensure you are are you Ensure treatment. fully vaccinated. insect repellent before going going before repellent insect meal evening your out for

TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA

HEALTH 780 781 HEALTH ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS

sh, pork pork sh, fi causes causes . ect travellers. The travellers. ect ff ng and using an antifun- fi Two fungal rashes com- rashes fungal Two and scratches Cuts Bee and wasp stings main- stings Bee and wasp rst occurs in the groin, arm- in the groin, occurs rst Snakes rare are bites snake Though over are there travellers, for Skin Problems Skin is a common heat Prickly in the tropics, skin rash being sweat by caused Treat skin. under the trapped and showers taking cool by using powders. monly a fi the toes. and between pits that patch as a red It starts is usu- and spreads slowly involves Treatment ally itchy. avoiding the skin dry, keeping cha such as Clotrima- cream gal The fungus or Lamisil. zole versicolor Tinea small and light-coloured on commonly most patches, and shoul- chest the back, a doctor. Consult ders. in infected easily become Immediately humid climates. in clean all wounds wash and apply antiseptic. water infec- signs of develop If you cuts Coral a doctor. see tion, infected. become easily can Parasites are parasites Numerous populations in local common these of but most Thailand, in two The in travellers. rare are para- avoid to follow to rules wear to are sitic infections eating avoid and to shoes especially food, raw number of A and vegetables. via transmitted are parasites barefoot, walking the skin by including strongyloides, and cutaneous hookworm larva migrans infected. Apply an iodine- an Apply infected. leech any to antiseptic based infection. help prevent to bite people for problems ly cause them. to allergic who are allergy with a serious Anyone injection of an should carry for an Epipen) (eg adrenaline pain others, For emergencies. apply – is the main problem and take the sting to ice painkillers. oss of and events ess, nausea, nausea, ess, fi ess. onfusion, l onfusion, ess, c ess, ciousn Heat stroke is a serious is a serious stroke Heat when contracted are Ticks in hu- found are Leeches may and you treat cult to ffi vegetables. Eat in busy res- busy in Eat vegetables. with a high turnover taurants customers. of Insect Bites & Stings in the cracks live Bedbugs and and walls furniture of the bed at to then migrate can You on you. feed night to with an antihis- the itch treat inhabit various Lice tamine. body but most your of parts and head your commonly Transmission pubic area. with an contact is via close be can They person. infected di Heat Thailand are of parts Many and humid throughout hot people most For the year. weeks two at least it takes climate. the hot to adapt to the feet of swelling Prevent as muscle as well and ankles excessive by caused cramps dehy- avoiding by sweating activity and excessive dration the day. of hours in the hot and emergency medical medi- immediate requires Symptoms treatment. cal on suddenly and come include weakn dry body with a body a hot 41°C, over of temperature dizzin coordination, applications need numerous such shampoo an antilice of lice Pubic as Permethrin. from contracted usually are contact. sexual They areas. in rural walking behind found commonly are belly and on the the ears, had have If you in armpits. and experience a tick bite at such as a rash symptoms or else- the bite of the site aches or muscle fever where, a doctor. see should you tick- prevents Doxycycline borne diseases. do They areas. mid rainforest but disease any transmit not intensely often are their bites afterwards weeks for itchy become easily and can tually collapse and loss of of and loss tually collapse cons oxacin oxacin fl is a para- oxacin, Cipro oxacin, fl Amoebic dysentery is very is very Amoebic dysentery Treatment consists of of consists Treatment ‘stop- a is just Loperamide Giardia lamblia site that is relatively common common that is relatively site Symptoms in travellers. bloating, include nausea, and in- fatigue gas, excess ‘Eggy’ diarrhoea. termittent attributed often are burps The treat- giardiasis. to solely Tinidazole, is choice ment of being a with Metronidazole option. second-line be but may in travellers rare poor-quality by misdiagnosed similar are Symptoms labs. You diarrhoea. bacterial to reliable seek should always blood have if you care medical Treatment diarrhoea. in your Tinidazole drugs; two involves kill the to or Metronidazole gut and then in your parasite kill the cysts. drug to a second complica- untreated If left abscesses, such as liver tions, occur. can Food is the in restaurants Eating con- for risk factor biggest diarrhoea. traveller’s tracting it include eat- avoid to Ways food, cooked ing only freshly that has food and avoiding in buf- been sitting around all fruit and cook Peel fets. Environmental Environmental Hazards bowel movements within 24 24 within movements bowel one other plus at least hours, such as vomiting, symptom or feel- nausea cramps, fever, unwell. ing generally re- hydrated; well staying such solutions hydration the best are as Gastrolyte as such Antibiotics this. for Nor will kill the Azithromycin or quickly. bacteria the to get and doesn’t per’ It can the problem. of cause if you example for be helpful, on a long bus ride. go to have if you Loperamide take Don’t blood in your or a fever, have atten- medical Seek stools. not do tion quickly if you an appropriate to respond antibiotic. is sh, sh, fi sh. fi rst fi Thai wash in and 40 min- ve fi fi sh. fi ects. The only way to to The only way ects. ff Jane Wilson-Howarth’s book Wilson-Howarth’s Jane Child’sYour Health Abroad excellent. Women’s Health Pregnant women should advice specialised receive The ideal travelling. before is in the second travel time to weeks), and 28 (16 trimester when pregnancy-related at their lowest. are risks that cause Thailand sh in ne – for 30 seconds. For For 30 seconds. ne – for fi fi sh are present in Thai waters – Thai waters in present sh are information in this boxed text. fi of and a feeling breathing culty ffi Thanks to Dr Peter Fenner for the sh stings pour vinegar onto the onto pour vinegar sh stings fi and for and for and single-tentacled. sh – multitentacled fi sh stings range from minor to deadly. A good good A deadly. minor to from range sh stings fi There are many other jelly other many are There Australia and Thailand are now working in close col- in close working now Thailand are and Australia There are many types of single-tentacled box jelly box single-tentacled of types many are There Multitentacled box jelly box Multitentacled erence. It is best to seek medical care quickly in case quickly in case care medical seek to is best It erence. ff Good resources are the are resources Good utes later. There has been the occasional death reported reported death has been the occasional There later. utes high blood pressure of as a result this syndrome from attacks. or heart strokes causing First Aid for Severe Stings the envenomations life-threatening severe For enabling better – hopefully as their ecology as well ters, the jelly of and detection prediction Box Box jelly jelly is dan- a box presume is to however, thumb, rule of main types two are There otherwise. proven until gerous jelly box of e but no serious irritating stings which clothing, protective wear is to stings these prevent the jelly human skin and between a barrier provides with the per- Stay alive. the person is keeping priority and start help, medical for call to someone send son, If the victim is unconscious. are CPR if they immediate – with vinegar liberally area the stung douse conscious is vinegar simple household jelly single-tentacled JELLYFISH STINGS JELLYFISH as known symptoms severe cause which can of some minor; seem can The initial sting syndrome. the Irukandji nausea, pain, such as back symptoms severe however di sweating, vomiting, between develop impending doom can a huge make can application early as above; area stung di 40 minutes. the next over develop symptoms other any jelly of identify the species to laboration these are potentially the most dangerous and a severe and a severe dangerous the most potentially are these They minutes. an adult within two kill can envenomation mouths river near beaches on sandy found generally are months. during the warmer and mangroves nappy-rash treatment, sun- treatment, nappy-rash repellent. and insect screen a carry to idea It is a good used (best antibiotic general – supervision) medical under ideal is an Azithromycin to used formula paediatric as diarrhoea, bacterial treat and throat chest as ear, well infections. publication Planet Lonely with Children,Travel away spending longer those rmly fi ected ected ff rst-aid supplies, supplies, rst-aid or toes ngers fi fi

The Thai Red Cross pro- Cross Thai Red The cally for children includes includes children for cally and the , ﬁ ﬀ should be kept free so the so free should be kept be checked. can circulation the limb with a Immobilise the victim to splint and carry is very It attention. medical important that the victim use not Do immobile. stays suck the or try to tourniquets out. venom many for antivenom duces in snakes the poisonous of Thailand. wrapped around the a around wrapped at the hand starting limb, on the (depending or foot up and working limb bitten) The band- chest. the towards tight be so should not age cut is that the circulation o

Children for safe Thailand is relatively point a health from children consult to It is wise view. of who specialises a doctor medicine prior to in travel child your ensure to travel prepared. is appropriately spe- kit designed medical A ci syrup Tylenol or paracetamol an antihistamine, fevers, for cream, itch Travelling Travelling With Sunburn sun- on a cloudy day Even Use rapidly. occur burn can (at least sunscreen a strong to making sure 30), factor and a swim, after reapply a wide-brimmed wear always outdoors. hat and sunglasses when lying in the sun Avoid in the highest the sun is at its If you 2pm). to (10am sky out of sunburnt stay become recov- have the sun until you compresses apply cool ered, the for painkillers and take hy- per cent One discomfort. applied cream drocortisone helpful. daily is also twice 85 species of venomous venomous of species 85 Always in Thailand. snakes if and long pants boots wear may that area in an walking in the aid First snakes. have involves bite a snake of event us- immobilisation’ ‘pressure bandage ing an elastic

TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN

HEALTH 782 HEALTH WOMEN’S HEALTH 783 uconazole (Dif- uconazole ﬂ may not be available so bring bring so available be not may Heat, supplies. adequate and antibiotics humidity thrush. to contribute all can thrush is with of Treatment and pes- creams antifungal Clotrimazole. such as saries is one alternative practical A of tablet infec- Urinary-tract lucan). be precipitated tions can or long bus dehydration by stops; toilet without journeys for bring suitable antibiotics treatment. ow to the placenta. the placenta. to ow ﬂ Traveller’s diarrhoea can can diarrhoea Traveller’s areas, urban Thailand’s In antimalarial drugs is com- drugs antimalarial pregnancy. in safe pletely dehydration to lead quickly inadequate in and result blood to used the drugs of Many bugs diarrhoea various treat in recommended not are is Azithromycin pregnancy. safe. considered products sanitary of supplies Your available. readily are option birth-control personal

not ective ective ﬀ Malaria is a high-risk dis- Malaria Avoid rural travel in areas in areas travel rural Avoid and transport with poor of Most facilities. medical insurance travel ensure all, pregnancy-related all covers including pre- possibilities, labour. mature Advice in pregnancy. ease recommends WHO the from do women that pregnant travel to those areas with areas those to travel malar- Chloroquine-resistant e the more None of ia. WANT MORE? For in-depth language information and handy phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s Phrasebook Name. You’ll ﬁ nd it at shop .lonelyplanet.com, or you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.

Language

Thailand’s offi cial language is eff ectively However, local variations crop up on signs, the dialect spoken and written in central menus etc. Generally, names in this book Thailand, which has successfully become the follow the most common practice. lingua franca of all Thai and non-Thai ethnic In our coloured pronunciation guides, groups in the kingdom. the hyphens indicate syllable breaks within In Thai the meaning of a single syllable words, and some syllables are further divided may be altered by means of diff erent tones. with a dot to help you pronounce compound In standard Thai there are fi ve: low tone, mid vowels, eg mêu·a-rai (when). tone, falling tone, high tone and rising tone. The vowel a is pronounced as in ‘about’, aa The range of all fi ve tones is relative to each as the ‘a’ in ‘bad’, ah as the ‘a’ in ‘father’, ai as speaker’s vocal range, so there is no fi xed in ‘aisle’, air as in ‘fl air’ (without the ‘r’), eu as ‘pitch’ intrinsic to the language. the ‘er’ in ‘her’ (without the ‘r’), ew as in ‘new’ » low tone – ‘Flat’ like the mid tone, but (with rounded lips), oh as the ‘o’ in ‘toe’, or as pronounced at the relative bottom of one’s in ‘torn’ (without the ‘r’) and ow as in ‘now’. vocal range. It is low, level and has no in- Most consonants correspond to their fl ection, eg bàht (baht – the Thai currency). English counterparts. The exceptions are » mid tone – Pronounced ‘fl at’, at the rela- Ъ (a hard ‘p’ sound, almost like a ‘b’, eg in tive middle of the speaker’s vocal range, eg ‘hip-bag’); đ (a hard ‘t’ sound, like a sharp ‘d’, dee (good). No tone mark is used. eg in ‘mid-tone’); ng (as in ‘singing’; in Thai » falling tone – Starting high and falling it can occur at the start of a word) and r (as sharply, this tone is similar to the change in in ‘run’ but fl apped; in everyday speech it’s pitch in English when you are emphasising often pronounced like ‘l’). a word, or calling someone’s name from afar, eg mâi (no/not). BASICS » high tone – Usually the most diffi cult for The social structure of Thai society demands non-Thai speakers. It’s pronounced near diff erent registers of speech depending on the relative top of the vocal range, as level who you’re talking to. To make things simple as possible, eg máh (horse). we’ve chosen the correct form of speech ap- » rising tone – Starting low and gradually propriate to the context of each phrase. rising, sounds like the infl ection used by When being polite, the speaker ends his English speakers to imply a question – or her sentence with kráp (for men) or kâ ‘Yes?’, eg săhm (three). (for women). It is the gender of the speaker that is being expressed here; it is also the The Thai government has instituted the common way to answer ‘yes’ to a question or Royal Thai General Transcription System show agreement. (RTGS) as a standard method of writing The masculine and feminine forms of Thai using the Roman alphabet. It’s used in phrases in this chapter are indicated where offi cial documents, road signs and on maps. relevant with ‘m/f’. Hello. สวัสดี sà-wàt-dee Question Words 785 Goodbye. ลากอน lah gòrn What? อะไร à-rai

Yes. ใช châi When? เมื่อไร mêu·a-rai LANGUAGE No. ไม mâi Where? ที่ไหน têe năi Please. ขอ kŏr Who? ใคร krai Thank you. ขอบคุณ kòrp kun Why? ทําไม tam-mai

You’re welcome. ยินดี yin dee ACCOMMODATION Excuse me. ขออภัย kŏr à-pai DIRECTIONS Where’s …? Sorry. kŏr tôht ขอโทษ ... อยทู ไหนี่ … yòo têe năi What’s the address? How are you? ทอยี่ คู ออะไรื têe yòo keu à-rai สบายดไหมี sà-bai dee măi Could you please write it down? Fine. And you? เขยนลงใหี ได ไหม kĕe·an long hâi dâi măi สบายดครี บั /คา sà-bai dee kráp/ Can you show me (on the map)? แลวค ณลุ ะ kâ láa·ou kun lâ (m/f) ใหด ู (ในแผนท)ี่ hâi doo (nai păan têe) What’s your name? ไดไหม dâi măi คณชุ ออะไรื่ kun chêu à-rai Turn left/right. My name is … เลยวซี้ าย /ขวา lée·o sái/kwăh ผม/ดฉิ นชั อื่ ... pŏm/dì-chăn chêu … (m/f) Do you speak English? It’s … อยู ... yòo … คณพุ ดภาษาู kun pôot pah-săh องกฤษไดั ไหม ang-grìt dâi măi behind ที่หลัง têe lăng I don’t underﬆand. in front of ตรงหนา đrong nâh ผม/ดฉิ นไมั  pŏm/dì-chăn mâi near ใกลๆ glâi glâi เขาใจ kôw jai (m/f) next to ขางๆ kâhng kâhng ACCOMMODATION ﬆraight ahead ตรงไป đrong Ъai Where’s a …? ... อยูที่ไหน … yòo têe năi campsite คายพักแรม kâi pák raam EATING & DRINKING I’d like (the menu), please. gueﬆhouse บานพัก bâhn pák ขอ (รายการ kŏr (rai gahn hotel โรงแรม rohng raam อาหาร) หนอย ah-hăhn) nòy youth hoﬆel บาน bâhn What would you recommend? เยาวชน yow-wá-chon คณแนะนุ าอะไรบํ าง kun náa-nam à-rai bâhng That was delicious! Do you have มีหอง ... mee hôrng … อรอยมาก à-ròy mâhk a … room? ไหม măi Cheers! chai-yoh single เดี่ยว dèe·o ไชโย Please bring the bill. double đee·ang kôo เตียงคู ขอบลหนิ อย kŏr bin nòy twin สองเตียง sŏrng đee·ang I don’t eat … ผม/ดฉิ นั pŏm/dì-chăn air-con แอร aa ไมกิน ... mâi gin … (m/f) bathroom หองนํ้า hôrng nám eggs ไข kài laundry หองซักผา hôrng sák pâh fish ปลา Ъlah mosquito net มุง múng red meat เนื้อแดง néu·a daang window หนาตาง nâh đàhng nuts ถั่ว tòo·a 786 Key Words with มี mee without ไมมี mâi mee bar บาร bah LANGUAGE bottle ขวด kòo·at Meat & Fish bowl ชาม chahm breakfaﬆ อาหารเชา ah-hăhn chów beef เนื้อ néu·a cafe รานกาแฟ ráhn gah-faa chicken ไก gài ACCOMMODATION chopﬆicks ไมตะเกียบ mái đà-gèe·ap crab ปู Ъoo cold เย็น yen duck เปด Ъèt cup ถวย tôo·ay fish ปลา Ъlah dessert ของหวาน kŏrng wăhn meat เนื้อ néu·a pork mŏo dinner อาหารเย็น ah-hăhn yen หมู seafood ah-hăhn tá-lair drink liﬆ รายการ rai gahn อาหารทะเล เครื่องดื่ม krêu·ang dèum squid ปลาหมึก Ъlah mèuk fork สอม sôrm glass แกว gâa·ou Fruit & Vegetables hot รอน rórn banana กลวย glôo·ay knife มีด mêet beans ถั่ว tòo·a lunch อาหาร ah-hăhn coconut มะพราว má-prów กลางวัน glahng wan eggplant มะเขือ má-kĕu·a market đà-làht ตลาด fruit ผลไม pŏn-lá-mái menu rai gahn รานการ guava ฝรั่ง fa-ràng อาหาร ah-hăhn lime มะนาว má-now plate จาน jahn mango มะมวง má-môo·ang reﬆaurant รานอาหาร ráhn ah-hăhn mangoﬆeen มังคุด mang-kút spicy เผ็ด pèt mushrooms เห็ด hèt spoon ชอน chórn nuts ถั่ว tòo·a vegetarian คนกินเจ kon gin jair (person) papaya มะละกอ má-lá-gor potatoes มันฝรั่ง man fa-ràng rambutan เงาะ ngó Signs tamarind มะขาม má-kăhm ทางเขา Entrance tomatoes มะเขือเทศ má-kĕu·a têt ทางออก Exit vegetables ผัก pàk เปด Open watermelon แตงโม đaang moh ปด Closed ทตี่ ดติ อสอบถาม Information Other หาม Prohibited chilli พริก prík หองส ขาุ Toilets egg ไข kài ชาย Men fish sauce นํ้าปลา nám Ъlah หยงิ Women ice นํ้าแข็ง nám kăang Can I look at it? noodles เสน sên ขอดไดู ไหม kŏr doo dâi măi 787 oil นํ้ามัน nám man How much is it?

pepper พริกไทย prík tai เทาไร tôw-rai LANGUAGE rice ขาว kôw That’s too expensive. แพงไป paang Ъai salad ผักสด pàk sòt Can you lower the price? salt เกลือ gleu·a ลดราคาไดไหม lót rah-kah dâi măi soup นํ้าซุป nám súp There’s a miﬆake in the bill. EATING & DRINKING soy sauce นํ้าซีอิ้ว nám see-éw บลใบนิ ผี้ ดิ bin bai née pìt ná นะครบั /คะ kráp/kâ (m/f) sugar นํ้าตาล nám đahn tofu เตาหู đôw hôo TIME & DATES What time is it? Drinks กโมงแลี่ ว gèe mohng láa·ou beer เบียร  bee·a morning เชา chów coﬀee กาแฟ gah-faa afternoon บาย bài milk นมจืด nom jèut evening เย็น yen orange juice นํ้าสม nám sôm yeﬆerday เมื่อวาน mêu·a wahn soy milk นํ้าเตาห ู nám đôw hôo today วันนี้ wan née sugar-cane นํ้าออย nám ôy juice tomorrow พรุงนี้ prûng née tea ชา chah Monday วันจันทร wan jan water นํ้าดื่ม nám dèum Tuesday วันอังคาร wan ang-kahn EMERGENCIES Wednesday วันพุธ wan pút Help! ชวยดวย chôo·ay dôo·ay Thursday วันพฤหัสฯ wan pá-réu-hàt Go away! ไปใหพน Ъai hâi pón Friday วันศุกร wan sùk Saturday วันเสาร wan sŏw Call a doctor! Sunday วันอาทิตย wan ah-tít เรยกหมอหนี อย rêe·ak mŏr nòy Call the police! TRANSPORT เรยกตี ํารวจหนอย rêe·ak đam·ròo·at nòy I’m ill. Public Transport ผม/ดฉิ นปั วย pŏm/dì-chăn Ъòo·ay (m/f) bicycle สามลอ săhm lór I’m loﬆ. rickshaw ผม/ดฉิ นั pŏm/dì-chăn หลงทาง lŏng tahng (m/f) boat เรือ reu·a Where are the toilets? bus รถเมล rót mair หองน าอยํ้ ทู ไหนี่ hôrng nám yòo têe năi car รถเกง rót gĕng motorcycle มอรเตอรไซค mor-đeu-sai SHOPPING & SERVICES taxi รับจาง ráp jâhng I’d like to buy … อยากจะซอื้ ... yàhk jà séu … plane เครื่องบิน krêu·ang bin I’m juﬆ looking. train รถไฟ rót fai ดเฉยู ๆ doo chĕu·i chĕu·i túk-túk ตุก ๆ đúk đúk 788 Numbers platform ชานชาลา chan-chah-lah 1 หนึ่ง nèung ticket window ชองขายตั๋ว chôrng kăi đŏo·a

LANGUAGE 2 สอง sŏrng timetable ตารางเวลา đah-rahng wair-lah 3 săhm สาม What time does it get to (Chiang Mai)? 4 สี่ sèe ถงึ (เชยงใหมี ) tĕung (chee·ang mài) 5 หา hâh กโมงี่ gèe mohng Does it ﬆop at (Saraburi)? DRIVINGTRANSPORT & CYCLING 6 หก hòk รถจอดท ี่ (สระบรุ )ี rót jòrt têe (sà-rà-bù-ree) 7 เจ็ด jèt ไหม măi 8 แปด Ъàat Please tell me when we get to (Chiang Mai). 9 เกา gôw เมอถื่ งึ mêu·a tĕung (เชยงใหมี ) (chee·ang mài) 10 สิบ sìp กรณาบอกดุ วย gà-rú-nah bòrk dôo·ay 11 สิบเอ็ด sìp-èt I’d like to get off at (Saraburi). 20 ยี่สิบ yêe-sìp ขอลงท(ี่ สระบรุ )ี kŏr long têe (sà-rà-bù-ree) 21 ยี่สิบเอ็ด yêe-sìp-èt 30 สามสิบ săhm-sìp Driving & Cycling 40 สี่สิบ sèe-sìp I’d like to อยากจะ yàhk jà 50 หาสิบ hâh-sìp hire a/an … เชา ... chôw … 60 หกสิบ hòk-sìp 4WD รถโฟรวีล rót foh ween 70 เจ็ดสิบ jèt-sìp car รถเกง rót gĕng motorbike rót 80 แปดสิบ Ъàat-sìp รถ มอรเตอรไซค mor-đeu-sai 90 เกาสิบ gôw-sìp 100 หนึ่งรอย nèung róy I‘d like … ตองการ ... đôrng gahn … 1000 หนึ่งพัน nèung pan my bicycle ซอมรถ sôrm rót 10,000 หนึ่งหมื่น nèung mèun repaired จักรยาน jàk-gà-yahn 100,000 หนึ่งแสน nèung săan to hire a เชารถ chôw rót bicycle jàk-gà-yahn 1,000,000 หนึ่งลาน nèung láhn จักรยาน Is this the road to (Ban Bung Wai)? ทางนไปี้ tahng née Ъai When’s รถเมลคัน ... rót mair kan … (บานบ งหวายุ ) ไหม (bâhn bùng wăi) măi the … bus? มาเมื่อไร mah mêu·a rai Where’s a petrol ﬆation? firﬆ แรก râak ปมน ามํ้ นอยั ทู ไหนี่ Ъâm nám man yòo têe năi laﬆ สุดทาย sùt tái Can I park here? next ตอไป đòr Ъai จอดทนี่ ไดี้ ไหม jòrt têe née dâi măi How long can I park here? A … ticket, ขอตั๋ว ... kŏr đŏo·a … จอดทนี่ ไดี้ นานเท าไร jòrt têe née dâi nahn tôw-rai please. I need a mechanic. one-way เที่ยวเดียว têe·o dee·o ตองการช างรถ đôrng gahn châhng rót return ไปกลับ Ъai glàp I have a flat tyre. ยางแบน yahng baan I’ve run out of petrol. I’d like ตองการ đôrng gahn หมดนามํ้ นั mòt nám man a/an … seat. ที่นั่ง ... têe nâng … Do I need a helmet? aisle ติดทางเดิน đìt tahng deun ตองใช หมวก đôrng chái mòo·ak window ติดหนาตาง đìt nâh đàhng กนนั อกไหม gan nórk măi 789 GLOSSARY

This glossary includes Thai, Pali ligious tradition in India and grà·bèe grà·borng – a LANGUAGE (P) and Sanskrit (S) words and the predecessor of Hindu- traditional Thai martial art terms frequently used in this ism; not to be confused with employing short swords and guidebook. For definitions of ‘Brahmin’, the priestly class staves food and drink terms, see p 785 . in India’s caste system gù·đì – monk’s dwelling ah·hăhn – food BTS – Bangkok Transit ah·hăhn þàh – ‘jungle System (Skytrain); Thai: hàht – beach; spelt ‘Hat’ in GLOSSARY food’, usually referring to rót fai fáh proper names dishes made with wild game Ъah·đé – batik hĭn – stone ajahn – (aajaan) respectful Ъàk đâi – southern hŏr đrai – a Tripitaka (Bud- title for ‘teacher’; from the Thailand dhist scripture) hall Sanskrit term acarya Ъèe·pâht – classical Thai hŏr glorng – drum tower orchestra amphoe – (amphur) district, hŏr rá·kang – bell tower the next subdivision down Ъohng·lahng – northeast- hôrng – (hong) room; in from province ern Thai marimba (percus- southern Thailand this amphoe meu·ang – sion instrument) made of short logs refers to semi-submerged provincial capital island caves AUA – American University hôrng tăa·ou – rowhouse Alumni CAT – CAT Telecom Public or shophouses Company Limited chedi – see stupa bâhn – (ban) house or Isan – (ee·săhn) general village chow – folk; people term used for northeastern baht – (bàat) the Thai unit chow lair – (chow nám) sea Thailand of currency gypsies bàht – a unit of weight chow nah – farmer jataka (P) – (chah·dòk) equal to 15g; rounded bowl CPT – Communist Party of stories of the Buddha’s used by monks for receiving Thailand previous lives alms food jeen – Chinese bai sĕe – sacred thread doy – mountain in the jeen hor – literally ‘gal- used by monks or shamans Northern Thai dialect; spelt loping Chinese’, referring in certain religious ‘Doi’ in proper names to horse-riding Yunnanese ceremonies đà·làht – market traders ben·jà·rong – traditional đà·làht nám – water jôw meu·ang – principality five–coloured Thai market chief; jôw means lord, prince ceramics đam·bon – (tambol) pre- or holy being BKS – Baw Khaw Saw (Thai cinct, next governmental acronym for the Transport subdivision under amphoe Company) kaan – reed instrument đròrk – (trok) alley, smaller common in northeastern BMA – Bangkok Metro- than a soi Thailand politan Authority; Bangkok’s municipal government kàthoey – see gà·teu·i bodhisattva (S) – in fa·ràng –a Westerner klorng – canal; spelt Theravada Buddhism, the (person of European origin); ‘Khlong’ in proper nouns term used to refer to the also guava kŏhn – masked dance– previous lives of the Buddha drama based on stories prior to his enlightenment gà·teu·i – (kàthoey) Thai- from the Ramakian bòht – central sanctuary land’s ‘third gender’, usually kon ee·săhn – the people in a Thai temple used for cross-dressing or trans- of northeastern Thailand; the monastic order’s official sexual males; also called kon means person business, such as ordina- ladyboys kŏw – hill or mountain; tions; from the Pali term gopura (S) – entrance spelt ‘Khao’ in proper names uposatha (ubohsòt); see also pavilion in traditional Hindu KMT – Kuomintang wí·hăhn temple architecture, often KNU – Karen National bòr nám rórn – hot seen in Angkor-period Union temple complexes springs kràbìi–kràbawng – see Brahman – pertaining to góo·ay hâang – Chinese- grà·bèe grà·borng Brahmanism, an ancient re- style work shirt 790 ku – small chedi that is par- mŏrn kwăhn – wedge- pleng koh·râht – Khorat tially hollow and open shaped pillow popular in folk song kúay hâeng – see góo·ay northern and northeastern pleng pêu·a chee·wít – Thailand LANGUAGE hâang ‘songs for life’, Thai folk- kùtì – see gù·đì MRTA – Metropolitan Rapid rock music Transit Authority, Bangkok’s ponglang – see Ъohng·lahng subway system; Thai: rót fai lăam – cape; spelt ‘Laem’ poo kŏw – mountain fáh đâi din in proper names pôo yài bâhn – village làk meu·ang – city pillar chief

GLOSSARY naga (P/S) – (nâhk) a lá·kon – classical Thai prá – an honorific term mythical serpent-like being dance-drama used for monks, nobility and with magical powers lék – little, small (in size); Buddha images; spelt ‘Phra’ ná·kon – city; from the see also noi in proper names Sanskrit-Pali nagara; spelt prá krêu·ang – amulets of lí·gair – Thai folk dance- ‘Nakhon’ in proper nouns drama monks, Buddhas or deities nám – water worn around the neck for longyi – Burmese sarong nám đòk – waterfall; spelt spiritual protection; also lôok tûng – Thai country ‘Nam Tok’ in proper nouns called prá pim music năng đà·lung – Thai prá poom – earth spirits or lôw kŏw – white whisky, shadow play guardians often homemade rice brew neun – hill; spelt ‘Noen’ in prang – (Ъrahng) Khmer- lôw tèu·an – illegal (home- proper names style tower on temples made) whisky ngahn têt·sà·gahn – prasada – blessed food festival offered to Hindu or Sikh mâa chee – Thai Buddhist nibbana (P/S) – nirvana; temple attendees nun in Buddhist teachings, the prasat – (Ъrah·sàht) small mâa nám – river; spelt Mae state of enlightenment; ornate building, used for Nam in proper names escape from the realm of religious purposes, with a Mahanikai – the larger of rebirth; Thai: níp·pahn cruciform ground plan and the two sects of Theravada noi – (nóy) little, small needlelike spire, located on Buddhism in Thailand (amount); see also lék temple grounds; any of a mahathat – (má·hăh tâht) nôrk – outside, outer; spelt number of different kinds of common name for temples ‘Nok’ in proper names halls or residences with reli- containing Buddha relics; gious or royal significance from the Sanskrit–Pali term PULO – Pattani United ow – bay or gulf; spelt ‘Ao’ mahadhatu Liberation Organization in proper nouns má·noh·rah – Southern Thailand’s most popular râi – an area of land mea- pâh ka·máh – cotton traditional dance-drama surement equal to 1600 sq sarong worn by men masjid – (mát·sà·yít) metres pâh mát·mèe – mát·mèe mosque reu·a hăhng yow – long- fabric mát·mèe – technique of tail boat pâh sîn – cotton sarong tie-dyeing silk or cotton reu·an tăa·ou – longhouse worn by women threads and then weaving reu·sĕe – an ascetic, her- pâhk glahng – central them into complex patterns, mit or sage (Hindi: rishi) similar to Indonesian ikat; Thailand rót aa – blue-and-white the term also refers to the pâhk nĕua – northern air-con bus patterns themselves Thailand rót Ъràp ah·gàht – air- metta (P) – (mêt-đah) pâhk tâi – see þàk đâi con bus Buddhist practice of loving- pĕe – ghost, spirit kindness rót fai fáh – Bangkok’s pin – small, three-stringed Skytrain system meu·ang – city or lute played with a large rót fai tâi din – Bangkok’s principality plectrum subway system mon·dòp – small square, pìi-phâat – see þèe·pâht rót norn – sleeper bus spired building in a wát; pík·sù – a Buddhist monk; rót tam·má·dah – ordinary from Sanskrit mandapa from the Sanskrit bhikshu, (non air-con) bus or train moo·ay tai – (muay thai) Pali bhikkhu rót too·a – tour or air-con Thai boxing PLAT – People’s Liberation bus mŏr lam – an Isan musical Army of Thailand tradition akin to lôok tûng ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd săh·lah – open-sided, cov- sù·săhn – cemetery at the foot of a tree) under- 791 ered meeting hall or resting tâh – pier, boat landing; taken by Buddhist monks; a place; from Portuguese spelt ‘Tha’ in proper nouns monk who undertakes such term sala, literally ‘room’ practices; a period of wan- tâht – four–sided, curvi- LANGUAGE săhm·lór – three-wheeled linear Buddha reliquary, dering on foot from place to pedicab common in Northeastern place undertaken by monks săhn prá poom – spirit Thailand; spelt ‘That’ in túk–túk – (đúk–đúk) motor- shrine proper nouns ised săhm·lór săm·nák sŏng – monastic tâht grà·dòok – bone reli-

centre quary, a small stupa contain- ùt·sà·nít – flame-shaped GLOSSARY săm·nák wí·þàt·sà·nah – ing remains of a Buddhist head ornament on a Buddha meditation centre devotee samsara (P) – in Buddhist tàlàat náam – see đà·làht vipassana (P) – teachings, the realm of nám (wí·þàt·sà·nah) Buddhist rebirth and delusion tâm – cave; spelt ‘Tham’ in insight meditation sangha – (P) the Buddhist proper nouns community tam bun – to make merit wâi – palms–together Thai satang – (sà·đahng) a Thai tambon – see đam·bon greeting unit of currency; 100 satang TAT – Tourism Authority of wan prá – Buddhist holy equals 1 baht Thailand days, falling on the days sèe yâak – intersection, têt·sà·bahn – a govern- of the main phases of the often used to give driving mental division in towns or moon (full, new and half) directions cities much like municipality each month sěmaa – boundary stones THAI – Thai Airways Inter- wang – palace used to consecrate ground national; Thailand’s national wát – temple–monastery; used for monastic air carrier from the Pali term avasa ordinations thammájàk – Buddhist meaning ‘monk’s dwelling’; serow – Asian mountain wheel of law; from the Pali spelt ‘Wat’ in proper nouns goat dhammacakka wá·tá·ná·tam – culture sêua môr hôrm – blue Thammayut – one of the wát þàh – forest cotton farmer’s shirt two sects of Theravada Bud- monastery soi – lane or small street dhism in Thailand; founded wí·hăhn – (wihan, viharn) any Songkran – Thai New Year, by King Rama IV while he large hall in a Thai temple, held in mid-April was still a monk usually open to laity; from sŏo·an ah·hăhn – outdoor thanŏn – (tà·nŏn) street; Sanskrit term vihara, mean- restaurant with any bit of spelt ‘Thanon’ in proper ing ‘dwelling’ foliage nearby; literally ‘food noun and shortened to ‘Th’ garden’ T-pop – popular teen-music Yawi – traditional language sŏrng·tăa·ou – (literally tràwk – see đròrk of Malay parts of Java, ‘two rows’) common name trimurti (S) – collocation Sumatra and the Malay Pe- for small pick-up trucks with of the three principal Hindu ninsula, widely spoken in the two benches in the back, deities, Brahma, Shiva and most southern provinces of used as buses/taxis; also Vishnu Thailand; the written form spelt ‘sǎwngthǎew’ Tripitaka (S) – Theravada uses the classic Arabic SRT – State Railway of Buddhist scriptures; (Pali: script plus five additional Thailand Tipitaka) letters stupa – conical-shaped tú·dong – a series of 13 as- yài – big Buddhist monument used cetic practices (for example yâhm – shoulder bag to inter sacred Buddhist eating one meal a day, living objects