MAISON CHAUDUN A CONNOISSEUR’S SECRET FROM MICHEL CHAUDUN TO GILLES MARCHAL PRESERVING THE HARMONY OF CHOCOLATE S UBTLE AROMA S , PERFECTLY BALANCED FLAVOUR S , COCOA VARIETIE S THAT COMPLEMENT EACH OTHER BEAUTIFULLY, COVETED TRADE S ECRET S , AND OUTRAGEOU S LY ELEGANT CHOCOLATE S – M AISON CHAUDUN AND ALL IT S WONDER S HAVE LONG BEEN A CLO S ELY GUARDED S ECRET, RE S ERVED FOR PA ss IONATE IN S IDER S AND DI S CERNING CONNOI ss EUR S . A S M ICHEL C HAUDUN PA ss E S THE TORCH TO G ILLE S M ARCHAL , THE COMING TOGETHER OF THE S E TWO DI S TINGUI S HED CHOCOLATIER S WILL S AFEGUARD A S IGNATURE TA S TE THAT ’S BEEN PERFECTED WITH INFINITE PATIENCE , WHILE AL S O EN S URING A BRIGHT FUTURE FOR A CHOCOLATERIE THAT CONTINUE S TO PUR S UE EXCELLENCE IN IT S CREATION OF HEAVENLY DELICACIE S . TO JOIN THE INNER CIRCLE AND UNCOVER THE S ECRET S OF THI S LITTLE - KNOWN MAI S ON DE CHOCOLAT, INDULGE YOUR NATURAL INCLINATION FOR EXCEPTIONALLY FINE CONFECTION S . 5 ONCE UPON A TIME… THERE LIVED AN UNASSUMING MASTER CHOCOLATIER hen Michel Chaudun set up love of fine food and my rather unique BEHANCE shop on Rue de l’Université convictions in matters of flavour,” & HARMONY Win 1986, he had already he recalls with a hint of mischief. earned a reputation for excellence. Today, serious chocolate lovers flock Having trained under Gaston Lenôtre, to Chaudun’s boutique to snap up his he worked for several years as chef chocolate bars, individual chocolates, Working with methods and techniques devised chocolatier at La Maison du Chocolat and signature pavés (little ganache over many years, Michel Chaudun has always alongside Robert Linxe. squares) – not to mention the House’s sought to achieve the perfect equilibrium; his An entire generation of chocolate selection of chocolate sculptures, chocolate is not designed to shock, astonish, or makers have learned their trade under available in a staggering variety of jar the palate. Chaudun’s tutelage. Alain Ducasse claims shapes for every occasion imaginable. to have first “discovered” chocolate Generations of Parisian children have The one quality running through all of Michel while working alongside him under stood captivated before his window Chaudun’s creations is harmony, thus bestowing Lenôtre, while Pierre Hermé, who also displays, gazing dreamily at the treasures on him a unique place amongst the great French worked with Chaudun, has often spoken encased within. These treasures have chocolatiers. Only a true chocolate lover could of his “craftsmanship and tenacity”. also taken Japan by storm; it’s a little- ever consider stepping into the shoes of such The new store quickly became a success. known fact that Michel Chaudun was the a master, while also preserving the priceless “Originally, it was called ‘Chocolate first French chocolatier to open a store essence of a House known only to a happy by Michel Chaudun’, in much the same there in 1991. He now has a boutique few, many of whom travel from far and wide to way as we’d say ‘Perfume by Christian in Tokyo and another in Yokohama, in sample its sublime creations... Dior’. Above all, I wanted to share my addition to several pop-up stores. 6 7 GILLES MARCHAL, CUSTODIAN OF A SOPHISTICATED SAVOIR-FAIRE hen the time came for Michel they’re hugely important – like the precise Chaudun to retire, a milestone temperature at which you add an ingredient, Wthat was richly deserved, Gilles for example – because these little nuances are Marchal seemed the obvious choice for his what create the subtle flavour I’m after. Having successor. Just like Michel, Gilles is fanatical worked side by side with Gilles for the last few about flavour. Starting off as pastry chef at months and taught him everything I know, Paris’ iconic Plaza Athénée and Bristol hotels, I’m completely confident that I’m leaving my he took over from Robert Linxe as Creative House in expert hands.” Director of La Maison du Chocolat before going on to open his own patisserie in Montmartre in Now the custodian of a veritable treasure trove autumn 2014. The two men, who have been in of savoir-faire, in addition to the considerable regular contact for 25 years, have now joined experience and excellence that he himself has forces in their quest to delight their devotees accumulated over the years, Gilles Marchal with exquisite flavours, ever aware that it’s the will continue to nurture and develop Maison little details that make all the difference. As Chaudun – to our immense pleasure. “Maison Michel Chaudun explains: “Instructing someone Chaudun’s DNA will stay the same; it’s merely on the correct proportions for a recipe is easy; a new incarnation of the same sensibility. the real knowledge lies in the wealth of little All the cult classics will still be there, and secrets that can only be passed on in practice, we’ll also be broadening our expertise secrets that take time to demonstrate in to include confectionery, custom orders, detail, as was the case with myself and Gilles. pastries, and cakes,” explains the pastry chef These details may seem trivial, but in fact enthusiastically. 9 CHOCOLATE ACCORDING TO CHAUDUN or Chaudun, chocolate is an art form exceptional skill) or milk chocolate (a guilty that’s all about balance. An avid pleasure of Michel Chaudun, who indulges Fbeliever in assemblage (the blending every evening, as well as Gilles Marchal, who process), he delicately combines various cocoa admits a soft spot for the House’s whole nut bean “vintages” from all the major chocolate chocolate bar), our research is always led by a producers (couverturiers) – as if crafting a sense of indulgence and a fine appreciation of fine Bordeaux – to create a unique, perfectly flavour, with special attention paid to the raw balanced blend of chocolate. ingredients. “We’re not looking for strong contrasts, sharp flavours, or dramatic sensations; that’s simply Thus, only natural whole nuts are used in not our style,” explains Gilles. “We’re all about order to ensure full control over their roasting finding subtle, more elegant notes, where the and shelling; almonds, hazelnuts, and walnuts flavours complement each other and linger are prepared with meticulous care before on the palate. It’s more of a symphony than a being incorporated into the chocolate. For fanfare! The very purpose of the assemblage the vanilla, that long-time accomplice and process is to create new, more complex perfecter of chocolate, frosted Madagascar sensations. Single-variety chocolate may vanilla is the only type used, its intense, be in vogue right now, but as chocolatiers, distinctive flavour caressing the palate with we regard our savoir-faire as comparable its sweetness. And as for the fruit, it’s always to that of a perfumier, in that we can – and fresh – you won’t find any frozen or ready- should – make use of each and every available made fruit purée in Chaudun ganaches or note.” Be it dark chocolate (a labour requiring chocolates, and certainly no artificial flavours! 10 AUTHENTIC THE PAVÉ NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH A TRUFFLE ! CHOCOLATE WITH COCOA NIBS he pavé, a little square of ganache dusted with bitter cocoa powder, remains ot many people are aware that it was Michel Chaudun who invented the chocolate the signature of Maison Chaudun. Since its creation in 1991, it has perfectly bar with cocoa nibs, and though attempts are often made to copy his creations, his Tembodied that combination of technical sophistication and elegant simplicity that Npartially secret method has ensured that his chocolate bars have remained inimitable. characterises all Chaudun chocolate. For Gilles, “That first bite of a pavé is sheer ecstasy. The “It all began in 1993,” he explains, “when a customer asked for chocolate made with coffee beans. fresh, meltingly soft chocolate delicately fuses with the velvety texture of the fine cocoa I tried freshly roasted coffee beans, which immediately gave me the idea of using cocoa beans. for a flavour that’s strong without being cloying.” His ganache is made from a blend of three So I experimented with six different types of bean, watching them closely as they roasted.” types of chocolate combined with whipping cream. Left to mature for 24 hours, it is cut into small squares using a guitar cutter, matured for another 24 hours, and then delicately Gilles, now custodian of this secret recipe, emphasises the subtle difference of this chocolate coated in bitter cocoa. Particular care is taken to ensure the coating is as fine as possible. Free in terms of quality and taste: “Many others work with pre-ground cocoa nibs, whereas here from preservatives, added sugar, and additives of any kind, this exceptionally fresh chocolate we only work with whole cocoa beans. The roasting, crushing, and manual shelling of the confection should be kept refrigerated and enjoyed within 10 days. beans allows us to add the nibs to the melted chocolate straight away, which in turn means that it keeps its crunchy but smooth texture.” The secret for optimum enjoyment is to take your pavés out of the fridge 15 minutes beforehand; this preserves their unique, fresh effect in the mouth while still allowing the flavours to develop fully. Available in either dark or milk chocolate, it’s a sensation like no other. 13 13 A FRUITFUL COLLABORATION WITH ALEXIA SANTINI when flavours were given the time they needed to develop and reach perfection. aison Chaudun now also sells Chaudun came to Corsica to show me the Michel Chaudun has passed on his high candied fruit.