Bulletin Post

Thread Production

Contents

Introduction •

Raw Materials •

Spinning of Polyester and Cotton Fibres •

Twisting •

Thread Manufacturing •

Thread Types •

Wet Processing •

Finishing •

Thread Sizing •

Apparel Thread Conversion Table •

Contact us about Thread Production • Bulletin Post durability isdirectly related totheproperties mentionedabove. The finishisultimatelydeterminedbythesewingperformanceandlubricantsused,butseamstrength andseam • • • • • A fewimportantcharacteristicsofthefibres andfilamentswhichare usedforsewingthreads are: from Polyester orPolyamide. particular sectors ofthesewingthread industry. Themaincontinuousfilament threads produced byCoatsare made Coats produces avariety of different continuousfilamentthreads with different physical characteristics which satisfy available whichoffer greater lightreflectance values thancircular cross-section filaments. However, forspecialendusessuchasmachine embroidery -multi-lobal Polyestercross-sectional filamentsare surface, makingthemmore lustrous thanthenaturalfibres duetoenhancedlightreflectivity. filaments. TheFilamentsthatare usedfortheproduction ofsewingthreads haveacircular cross-section andasmooth molecular chainstoproduce particularlyhightenacity threads, are theyarns individuallydrawntoorientate Continuous FilamentandCorespun sewing To obtainfilamentssuitableforthe production of pump. of the holes in the spinneret and the pressure of the The diameterofthefilamentsisdeterminedbysize threads. Thisprocess isknownasMeltspinning. main componentsformakingpolyesterbasedsewing This is one of the to form a continuous filament yarn. These filamentsare thencooledandcollectedtogether is triangularproducing trilobal filaments. to manufacture embroidery threads thespinneret profile spinneret are circular, butforhighlustre filamentsused For thevastmajorityofsewingthreads theholesin form continuousfilaments. molten polymerisextrudedthrough thespinneret to A spinneret isametaldisc whichcontainsholes.The spinneret. fed underpressure through adeviceknownas polymer chipsorgranules,whichare thenmeltedand Polyester raw materials are initiallyproduced using threads are rapidlyreplacing cottonandrayonthreads. However, if thehandicrafteffect isbeingcreated byamachine,(as in thecaseofembroidery oflogos),thensynthetic Handicraft threads are stillpredominantly madeoutofcotton,especiallywhenthehandicraftworkisdonebyhand. replaced theuseofnaturalfibres likecottonandlinen thatusedtobethematerialofchoice. Most sewingthreads todayare basedonsyntheticmaterials, suchaspolyesterornylon,whichhave,toalargeextent Coats produces manydifferent threads andthiswillbeexplainedwithintechnicalbulletin. intermingling, texturisingandairjetwhichcanproduce athread ofasingleplyconstruction. However, thesedaysthere are other'ContinuousFilament'constructionsmanufactured using technologies,like a singlestrandinpliedorcorded construction". Sewing thread has a variety ofdescriptions. We generallyrefer to it as, "two or more twisted together to form yarns . Raw Materials Introduction Elongation atbreak Tenacity, thestrength forsizeofthethread Abrasion resistance Heat resistance andflammability Elasticity andrecovery Elongation atbreak Raw Materials:PolyesterorNylon and Recovery Elasticity Heat Resistanceand Flammability Circular Abrasion resistance Triangle Tenacity Bulletin Post winding Twisting Spinning Assembly Roving drawing Winding Clearing, 2nd stage Splicing & Carding drawing Opening 1st stage Spinning of Polyester Fibres Raw Materials: Cotton Raw Materials: Raw Materials: Polyester Materials: Raw ...... The process of manufacturing a spun polyester sewing thread includes the steps; Opening, Carding, 1st and 2nd stage 1st and 2nd includes the steps; Opening, Carding, of manufacturing a spun polyester sewing thread The process & Winding,Drawing, Roving, Spinning, Clearing / Splicing Assembly Winding, and finally, Twisting. This continuous filament polyester can also be used to produce polyester staple fibre. In order to do this we take a to order In fibre. polyester staple to produce can also be used filament polyester This continuous structure. rope-like or tow into a together brought then filament yarns spun continuous melt of number are which the of tenacity the increasing thereby chain molecular the align to stretched or drawn then is structure like rope This frictional surface. a better a crinkle, to produce is then crimped, given filament. It the best quality to mimic 38mm, in order of around staple length into a suitable regular then either be cut The tow can variable more though a longer, to produce broken yarns. Staple Spun be stretched it can Or to create fibre cotton Spun or Craq spun yarns. Tow and used to produce length fibre, must threads characteristics all synthetic is usually used. Despite their differing fibre high tenacity For sewing threads at the sewing machine. properly it is to perform lubricated if be properly Cotton is a natural fibre and is the fibre on which Coats originally built its worldwide business. Cotton is produced business. Cotton is produced on which Coats originally built its worldwide is the fibre and Cotton is a natural fibre grades. in many different are fibres The cotton long and extra-long staple cotton crops. the world’s Coats selects from For sewing threads, length, fineness and maturity. grade, strength, selected based on their carefully a cross convolutions. In appearance with frequent have a flattened ribbon-like cotton fibres Under the microscope, very fine having a typical are look like collapsed, hollow tubes. These fibres section of cotton you will notice that they 38mm. length averaging approximately and a fibre diameter of 20 microns thread handicraft dominant in the still is cotton thread, sewing industrial an as now common less Although market. Bulletin Post & Winding, Assembly Winding andTwisting. AssemblyWinding & Winding, Drawing, Sliver LapForming,Ribbonforming,Combing,2ndStage Drawing, Roving,Spinning,Clearing / Splicing The process ofmanufacturingacottonsewingthread includesthesteps;Opening,Cleaning,Carding, 1stStage rope offibre. then broughtis likea togetherinasliverortow,which releases furtherquantitiesofimpurities.Thefibres are which separate the individual fibres from each other and The fibres inlapformare thenpassedtotheCards, Carding: mixed withthefibres. To remove thedirt,leafandseedfragmentsthatare Cleaning: CottonONLY them together. This process istoopenthe bales ofstaplefibre andblend Opening: . Spinning ofPolyesterandCottonFibres Spinning ofCottonFibres 1st stage Cleaning Opening drawing Carding Ribbon lap 2nd stage Silver lap Combing drawing forming what iscalleda lap. out. The fibres, nowin sheet form, are rolled upinto machine which alignsthemsidebyside,draws them A numberofsliversare presented totheSliverLap Sliver LapForming:Cotton ONLY front rollers revolving fasterthanthebackrollers. input sliver. Thismachineoperatesbyhaving thepairof to produce asinglesliversimilarinsizetothe together, thendrawnoutusingadraftingroller system Typically 6or8sliversare combinedandblended 1st StageDrawing: Splicing & Assembly Spinning Clearing, Winding winding Roving Twisting Bulletin Post Ring Spinning: the Ring on done is yarnof stage final The production the Roving is drawn out to the spinning frame, where high level thickness and the relatively weight or required and balance for both strength of singling twist, required is inserted. in the completed thread though some This twist is normally in the “S” direction, The have their singles twist in the “Z” direction. threads drawing or drafting down is done by a series of rollers finer. speeds which draw the roving running at different the singles twist is After leaving the final drafting roller a singles yarn. fine yarnimparted creating The resultant is wound onto a ring tube. used was 100% cotton then the yarnIf the staple fibre used was is 100% staple spun cotton. If the staple fibre 100% polyester then the yarn is 100% staple spun polyester. Draw Frame - 2nd Stage Drawing: a number of slivers are After combing [Cotton ONLY], the Post-comb again combined and passed through and to draw frame to help eliminate irregularities placed parallel to each properly are the fibres that ensure the size is approximately here The sliver produced other. than the heavier many times is still but the input sliver of for thread. yarns required post and lap ribbon lap, sliver the polyester fibres For by the two replaced are combed drawing processes route This means that the process draw frame processes. section. is shorter in the preparation Roving. Roving: post-comb drawing of cotton or 2nd The sliver from sent to the Speed stage drawing of polyester are an to presented is individual sliver each frame where and drawn down to a individual set of drafting rollers weight suitable for ring spinning. These machines, to as “slubbing” machines produce sometimes referred a as known is which sliver a of version finer a in the cross Because at this stage the number of fibres is relatively the roving section is considerably reduced to hold it weak. A slight twist is inserted into the roving as together and facilitate the Ring Spinning process, it is wound onto a bobbin. Combing: Cotton ONLY the pulled from as they are , which combs the fibres the laps to the Comber presents The next stage of production The parallel to each other. long fibres to lay the remaining and short fibres lap. The function of combing is to remove to a sliver form. the comber returns the fibre from production Ribbon Lap Forming: Cotton ONLY Lap Forming: Ribbon top of each on fed together are of laps a number where / lap machine the Ribbon to then presented laps are These is a lap, which this machine the output from / lap machine. Again, similar to the Sliver drafting system other to another machine. package for the combing is the input other and enhance parallel to each align them the staple fibres, to blend together designed are These processes regularity. Bulletin Post three are orfour yarns combinedtoform a sewingthread. Thisisreferred toasthe“Finishing Twist”. isbalancedbyapplying atwistintheopposite,usually "Z",directionThe twistinthe singlingyarn whentypically two, to asthe"SinglingTwist". which produces theconsolidatingforce. Thisisreferred usuallyinthe"S"direction,inserted inthebasicyarns, any good sewing thread, and it is the twist that is strength combinedwithflexibility,whichisessentialin with theiraxisparallel.Thisproduces thecoherence and intimate contactwitheachotherwhenheldtogether fineness, thesefibres andfilamentshavealargearea of filaments producesBecauseoftheir thesebasicyarns. relatively shortfibres ortwistingfinecontinuous Asyou’vecycle assimpleyarns. seen,spinningtogether All conventionalsewingthreads begintheirconstruction these into"grey" or"greige" thread. thenextstageistoconvert Once wehaveour"yarns" End Winding. produce longerlengths.This process iscalledSingle fromto jointheshortlengthsofyarn ringtubes (Splicing), eitherduetotheremoval ofafaultorjust thread. are Theendsof yarn joinedtogether which mayimpede the sewing performanceofthe final electronicdetectors (Clearing) faultto remove faults fromthe yarn ringtubes,passthemthrough process afterspinning,istotake Splicing andWinding between 100-150grams.ThepurposeoftheClearing, The packagefrom theringspinningframeweighs Clearing, SplicingandWinding: yarns. subsequent standard processing into finished sewing threads. are Such yarns known as Schappe, Craq, or Tow Spun fibres, whicharethrough thendrawnoutandtwistedintoyarns aseriesofdrawingandcombiningoperationsfor the secondrollers butiscarriedthrough byitsneighbours. Thisresults inamore variablebutlongerlengthstaple sets ofrollers runningatdifferent speeds,thesecondsetbeingfaster. Eachfilamentisbroken before itreaches producers by stretching it to breaking point. This isdone on specialmachinery where the tow is passed between two canalsobeproducedSpun syntheticyarns directly from thetowofcontinuousfilamentssuppliedbyfilament Schappe, Craq,orTow SpunPolyesterThreads Polyester corespun, sometimesreferred toasPoly/Poly. If thestaplefibre usedwas100%polyesterandthefilamentcoreisPolyester/ is100%polyesterthentheyarn corespun. If thestaplefibre usedwas100%cottonandthefilamentcoreisPolyester/Cotton is100%polyesterthentheyarn in theroving formanoutersheatharound thefilament core. back ofthefront rollers ontheringspinningframe,so thatnostretching ofthefilamentoccurs,andstaplefibres If thethread istobeaCorespun thread, thenapre-stabilisedofContinuousFilamentPolyesterisfedinatthe yarn Core Spinning Twisting ofSpunandCorespunthreads and laysthemside-by-sideunderequaltension. for the eventual threadnumber of ends of single yarn machines. Thisprocess simply assemblestherequired process toprepare a suitablepackagefor the twisting are senttotheAssemblyWinding End Winding The packages(orcheeses)of"cleared"from yarn Single Assembly Winding: Bulletin Post Singles or Twist Yarn Finishing or Twist Thread Thread Types Thread Manufacturing Thread A whole range of sewing threads can be produced from the few raw from can be produced A whole range of sewing threads discussed today. materials we’ve available in sewing thread is the best general-purpose apparel Corespun and elongation combines the strength the market today. Corespun with the sewing characteristics of the Continuous Filament Core threads. performance and surface characteristics of the spun fibre in the yarnThe filament component is merged with the staple fibres of the the centre up its position in operation. The filament takes spinning it. These wrapped around yarn sheath of staple fibres with a protective composite yarns then twisted to form a plied thread. are covered Polyester Filament Yarns constructions are The two main Corespun or Polyester Filament yarns and by Polyester fibres covered and protected by Cotton fibres. protected high tenacity from manufactured are Staple Spun Polyester threads be would used for sewing thread A typical high tenacity fibre staple fibres. of the linear density and 38mm long with a which is a measure 1.2 denier, use a fibre producers tenacity of at least 7.5 grams per decitex. Some thread length of 45mm or even 55mm depending on the machinery they have and in a wide range of constructions produced are available. SSP threads general sewing accommodate most ticket numbers, to sizes, tex and applications. of three are These cotton threads high-grade long staple fibres. from generally are Staple Spun Cotton threads and Glace or Polished. distinct types, Soft, Mercerised low other than bleaching or dyeing and the application of a uniform, no special treatment receive Soft threads friction lubricant. As you can see the term "S" or "Z" twist direction is derived from the diagonal of these letters following the direction the diagonal of these letters following the direction is derived from direction As you can see the term "S" or "Z" twist to as left twist. and “Z” twist is sometimes referred to as right twist of the twist. “S” twist is sometimes referred The continuous filament yarns also be twisted to make continuous filament shown at the beginning of this session can continuous filament Continuous filament yarns can also be assembled in 2, 3, or 4 plies to create sewing threads. threads. These include textured polyester or nylon sewing threads. Without the correct level of finishing twist, a conventional thread cannot be controlled during sewing. The individual during sewing. The cannot be controlled Without thread finishing twist, a conventional level of the correct control sewing machine needle and over the the passages through repeated separate during their plies would (or turns as the number of turns defined per inch) of the yarn per metre inserted or the therefore is surfaces. Twist produced. thread the in liveliness resulting then the too high it is if yarns low, then the is too twist If the fray and break, may untwist, the final package. knots or spillage from may cause snarling, looping, thread Bulletin Post twisting routes butthethread doeshaveadifferent handleorfeeltoit. and theperformanceofthreads produced byconventionalspinningand thread. LockedFilamentPolyesterthreads havemanyofthecharacteristics The filamentsare entangledandheattreated toproduce aconsolidated technique involvingtheheating andstretching ofthecontinuous filaments. Locked FilamentPolyester sewing threads are produced by a chainstitching, overlockingandcoverseamingoperations. characteristics. Theyare mostsuitableasunderthreads inlightweight adopting acrimpedshapegivingsoftbulkythread withhighstretch imposed inthetwistingzone.Thisprocess resultsindividual filaments inthe memoryretainsa thermoplasticconditiontheyarns someof the distortion twisting zoneofthemachine,twistisremoved, isstillin butastheyarn rotational force whichresults intwistbeinginserted.Asthethread exitsthe isthensubjectedtoa convection, tosoftenthefilaments.Theyarn In thisprocess,issubjectedtoheat,by contact orby thefilamentyarn The mostcommonmethodofproducing thesethreads isbyfalsetwisting. filament twistedthreads and canbeproduced indifferent plyconstructions. These threads are designed to be bulkier and softer than the continuous (Textured nylonorTXN)from Polyester (Textured PolyesterorTXP). what wenowcallTextured threads . Thesecanbeproduced from Nylon Continuous Filamentthreads are modified byfurtherprocessing toproduce created bytheindividualfilaments havingatriangularcross section. Trilobal Polyester hasbeenmodified tomaximisethelustre ofthe thread mainly usedforembroidery thread. Trilobal Polyesterisaspecific typeofContinuous FilamentPolyester reduce theabrasionon thread duringthesewingoperation. holding thepliestogether. Theapplicationofthebondingagentsalso After application,theresin iscured anddriedwhichhastheeffect of for ContinuousFilamentPolyester. Polyurethane forContinuous FilamentNylonandPolyesterorPolyurethane In thiscase,thethreads are coatedwithasolubleresin likeNylonor Some ofthesethreads are givenanadditionalprocess calledBonding. particularly importantsuchasfootwearandfineleathergoods. These threads are used in sewing applications where the seam strength is constructions similartothepostspinningprocesses usedforspunthreads. These strands are then combined and twisted conventionally into plied dependant onthedesired characteristics. a continuousstrand,eachstrandcomprisingspecific numberoffilaments thefilamentsarecontinuous filamentyarn gathered from thespinneret into Soft CFThread whichisthesimplestform.Inproduction ofa Some varietiesofContinuousFilamentThreads are: size inCorespun, SSP(StapleSpunPolyester)orCotton. Continuous Filamentthreads are significantly stronger thantheirequivalent Coats are madefrom Polyamide[nylon],Polyesterand Rayon. sewing thread industry.TheContinuousfilamentthreads produced by different physicalcharacteristicswhichsatisfyparticularsectorsofthe Coats produces avarietyofdifferent continuousfilamentthreads with Continuous FilamentThreads finishes are alsoappliedtoPolyester/Cottoncorespun threads. 10% butmore importantlythisprocess protects thethread from abrasionduringheavy-dutysewingoperations.Glace them toformasmoothsurfaceonthethread. Thepolishingprocess increases thestrength ofthethread byabout applies acoatingofstarch tothesurfaceofthread, brushesthefibre endsintothebodyofthread anddries Glace cottonthreads are produced from softcottonthreads bygivingthemapolishingtreatment. Thisprocess affinity isalsoenhancedbythisprocess. become rounder inthecross-section. Thisprocess enhancesthelustre andincreases thestrength ofthefibres. Thedye Mercerised threads are treated under tension,in a solution of caustic sodawhich causes thefibres to swelland Bulletin Post is used to dye sewing thread. thread. is used to dye sewing cheese dyeing kier Wet Processing - Dyeing Wet Processing - Carrier Loading Wet Processing Wet Processing - Dye Package Winding Package - Dye Processing Wet The lid of the dye kier is clamped shut. The dye liquor is The lid of the dye kier is clamped shut. The and raised to the dyeing pumped in under pressure temperature. package, each thread The dye liquor flows through intervals. alternately in-to-out and out-to-in at pre-set timing and These cycles, together with the temperature, for by the the addition of all the other chemicals called regulated shade, are for a specific dye recipe in modern dye kiers. automatically by computer controls standards. even, level dyeing to precise This ensures to in order process dye to the to add bleaching cycle necessary it is sometimes cotton threads 100% When dyeing dyed. they are before the natural colouring matters and chemical impurities in the Cotton fibres remove Polyester is dyed using disperse substrates of sewing threads. for different required are classes of dyestuffs Different usually at temperatures or vat dyestuffs reactive Cotton can be dyed with direct, 130°C whereas at around dyestuffs at below 100°C. made are which sewing threads the unlike components, different two contain threads corespun Polyester / cotton is the dyeing process and therefore class of dyestuff a different just one substrate, each component requires from the same shade on both substrates and the selected to produce are time. The dyestuffs complex and takes more more carried out consecutively in the same overall dyeing operation. two separate dye cycles are and then the cheeses are to extract excess moisture dried using centrifuges then uniformly The dyed packages are dryers. finally dried using hot air drying systems or radio frequency A onto the stacked are thread The cheeses of grey carriers perforated hollow spindles of the dye machine a conditions to create under controlled and compressed density. of uniform sealed column of thread All synthetic threads, Polyester / Cotton Corespun Corespun Polyester / Cotton threads, All synthetic wet are 100% Cotton threads and some threads cheeses. These cheeses called are on what processed frame or at a separate on the twisting produced are . for dyeing called cheesewinding process of a so that they are wound are The packages for dyeing permeability to allow the dye liquor constant density and the packages. through to be pumped evenly Bulletin Post support usedwilldependonthesubstrateofthread beingwoundandtheenduse ofthethread. thread iswoundontothesupport(cone,vicone,tubeetc)tolengththatcustomer requires. Thetypeof After thelubricantandanyspecialfinisheshavebeenapplied, thethread ispassedto FinalWindingwhere the of lubricantiscarefully controlled. Index helpsensure goodsewing. Theamountoflubricantappliediscriticaltosuccessfulsewingandtheactuallevel a separatelubricantapplicationprocess ormore commonlyatfinalwinding.TheLubricantContentandtheFriction helps reduce frictionandSilicone thatpromotes needlecooling. Thelubricantscanbeappliedatthedyeingkier, at sewing machine,mostthreads are lubricatedafterdyeing.Mostlubricantsare combinations ofParaffin Wax that To prevent thread damageatthe needleeyeandtohelpthepassageofthread through thethread pathofthe always causedbyexcessivethread tension. eye whenthesewingoperationstopsmomentarilytochangedirection orwhilestartinganewseam.Theyare not deg Celsius.Mostthread breaks thatoccurduringsewingare causedbythesynthetic thread meltingintheneedle way through thelayersof fabric beingsewn.BothPolyesterandNylonthreads willmeltattemperatures below300 330 degCelsiusiscommon.Thisheatgeneratedthrough frictionastheneedleofsewingmachinepunchesits During sewing, considerable heat is generated at the needleof the sewing machine and an average temperature of the lustre ofthefinalproduct. through acarefully controlled gasflametoremove extraneousfibres from thethread surface.Thisfurtherenhances Before undergoingthemercerising process thegrey 100%cottonthread issometimesgassedorsingedthatis,run form andthedyeingprocess isalsodoneinhankdyeingmachines. This produces astronger, lustrous thread withanincreased affinity for dye liquors. Mercerising isusuallydoneinhank the causticsolutionwashedout. solution, whichcausesthemtoswellandinsodoing,untwiststheirnaturalconvolutions,before beingstretched and Cotton threads are sometimesMercerised. Inthisprocess, theCottonfibres are impregnated withacausticsoda Finishing -FinalWinding Finishing -Lubrication Wet Processing-Mercerising Bulletin Post 70 - 75 70 65 - 75 65 - 75 65 90 - 110 80 - 100 80 - 100 90 - 100 110 - 130 110 120 - 140 120 130 - 160 130 140 - 180 140 180 - 230180 Metric Needle* 10 - 11 10 9 - 11 9 - 11 12 - 16 12 - 16 12 14 - 16 14 14 - 18 14 18 - 21 18 19 - 22 19 24 - 26 24 21 - 23 21 22 - 24 Singer Needle* ------12 / 3 12 20 / 2 20 / 3 20 60 / 2 60 / 3 40 / 3 Cotton Count 18 25 75 50 30 60 80 120 160 140 100 36, 40 Metric Ticket 12 16 70 40 100 T-100 20, T-80 30, T-60 70, 70 / 40 70 70, 50, 60 / 36 US Ticket 120, 100 / 80 120, 100, 100100, / 60 21 18 24 35 60 80 40 120 150 105 27, 30 45, 50 Tex Size Apparel Thread Conversion Table Thread Sizing * Needle size recommendations are nominal and ultimately depend on the sewing application. are * Needle size recommendations Here is a useful apparel thread size conversion table. This includes the US ticketing system as well as Singer and Metric size conversion table. This includes the US ticketing system as well as Singer and thread useful apparel is a Here needle sizing. The preferred method of sizing sewing thread for Coats Global Offer Products is the Tex System. Tex is the weight in is the weight System. Tex is the Tex Products for Coats Global Offer method of sizing sewing thread The preferred or yarn. of thread The higher the number the coarser the thread. grams of 1,000 metres Ticket. Metric is alternativeAn ticket threads blended metric synthetic The and synthetic for use common in unit sizing 3. The higher the number taking the number 1,000 divided by the tex number multiplied by number is derived from the finer the thread. Count and Cotton Ticket still utilise the Ne [number] English Sizing System known as Cotton 100% cotton threads number. , where the product is labelled, wrapped and boxed prior to being to being boxed prior and labelled, wrapped is the product , where Packing Goods is Finished operation The final stock. for warehouse or to the customer despatch immediate for the warehouse sent to Bulletin Post www.coatsindustrial.com November 2017