Cope and Stick Inside Edge Profiles IE1 IE2 IE3 IE4 IE6 IE7 IE5 Cope

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Cope and Stick Inside Edge Profiles IE1 IE2 IE3 IE4 IE6 IE7 IE5 Cope

Cope and Stick Inside Edge Profiles IE1 IE2 IE3 IE4 IE5 IE6 IE7 IE9 IE13 IE14 Cope and Stick, Combination Frame and Veneer Outside Edge Profiles 1/8” OE1 OE2 OE3 OE4 3/8” OE5 OE6 OE7 OE8 OE9 OE11 OE13 OE14 1/4” OE15 OE20 OE21 1/8” OEABD* 1.5mm EB 3mm EB *Additional sq. ft. or per piece Veneer Doors Veneer Doors charge applies. OEABD is available only on slab drawer fronts. Orders and Information: 512.352.6355 or 866.585.7623 Fax: 512.853.4077 © 2021 TaylorCraft Cabinet Door Company, LP Profiles are shown smaller than actual size. Panel Profiles (Noted panel reveal is approximate and can vary due to expansion/contraction) 5/16” 1-1/8” 1-5/16” RP1 RP3 RP4 3/4” 1” 1-3/16” RP12 RP13 RP5* 1” 1-1/2” RP6 RP7 1-5/16” 1-5/16” 1-1/8” RP9 RP11 RP20 1-1/16” 1-1/16” RP14 RP15 FP3/8"ǂ FP3/8” VG* FP3/8" BD* (MDF Core) (Solid Wood) (Solid Wood) 1-3/8” 1-3/4” FP1/4"ǂ » » (MDF Core) RPAM1 RPAM2 »RPAM1 and RPAM2 are for use on Inside Applied Molding Doors. Reveal varies depending on which applied molding is used. *Additional charge applies for RP5, v-groove and beaded v-groove panels. Cathedral and eyebrow arch doors are not available with RP5. *FP3/8” VG and FP3/8” BD grooves and beads are centered on panel and are 2” apart on center. These profiles are solid wood panels so solid, raised panel minimums apply. ǂ1/4” and 3/8” MDF core panels have the same species on face and back of the panel for all standard species. 1/4” panels are true 1/4” thickness. Inside Edge Applied Molding Profiles AIM1 (1-1/16” wide) AIM2 (1-3/8” wide) Inside edge applied moldings are available on cope and stick door styles using FP3/8”, RPAM1 or RPAM2 and any outside edge. Orders and Information: 512.352.6355 or 866.585.7623 Fax: 512.853.4077 Profiles are shown smaller than actual size. © 2021 TaylorCraft Cabinet Door Company, LP Mitered Frame Profile Options M# designation is 2-3/8” wide profile. M#-D designation is 1-5/8” wide drawer front profile. MW# designation is 3-1/8” wide profile. M1 M1-D M3 MW3 M3-D M4 Suggested Drawer Front is M3-D M6 MW4 M6-D M7 MW6 MW6-D Suggested Drawer Front is M8 M24-D M15 MW15 M15-D M24 MW24 M24-D (Formerly called M2) (Formerly called M2-D) M26 MW26 M26-D MW2 MW2-D MW8 MW8-D MW9 MW9-D Profiles are smaller than actual size and not to scale. Orders and Info: 512.352.6355 MW10 MW10-D © 2021 TaylorCraft Cabinet Door Company, LP.

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Roy’s Wood Products OVER 45 YEARS OF CUSTOM WOODWORKING A passion for quality and almost 50 years of custom woodworking drives Roy’s Wood Products, RWP, to manufacture some of the best wood products in the industry. Our grandfather Roy Brazell, Sr., after serving in WWII, started building cabinets and other products for local craftsmen and contractors. His son, Roy Brazell, Jr. continued to grow the business by focusing on what the customer needed and working hard for timely delivery. As a result of hard work, attention to quality, and the blessings of our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ, RWP has grown into what it is today. We are looking forward to providing you with the custom cabinet doors, custom mouldings, hardwood flooring or any other products you might find in the pages of this catalog. Thank you for your business. Cherry Roman Eyebrow Roman Arch Square Raised Panel DFT-01-202-110 011-01-202-110 005-01-202-110 003-01-202-110 401-00-000-110 402-00-000-110 Maple Double American American Arch Square Raised Panel DFT-03-203-113 015-03-203-113 010-03-203-113 003-03-203-113 401-00-000-113 403-00-000-113 Hickory PICTURED: Cathedral Eyebrow Cathedral Arch Square Raised Panel DFT-01-209-109 Square Raised Panel Door 003-01-202-110 008-01-209-109 004-01-209-109 003-01-209-109 401-00-000-109 Solid Raised Panel Drawer Front 502-00-000-110 509-00-000-109 In Cherry with stain 4 5 Birch DFT-01-FPL-110 Glass Four Lite Flat Roman Classic Flat 409-00-000-110 003-03-G04-111 905-01-FPL-110 903-01-FPL-110 401-00-000-110 Knotty Pine DFT-03-FPL-107 Flat
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Frame-And-Panel Doors Made Easy
Frame-and-Panel Doors Made Easy Cope-and-stick router bits are quick but tricky. Here’s how to get perfect results BY MICHAEL PEKOVICH Photos, this page: Michael Pekovich; facing page: John Tetreault COPYRIGHT 2007 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted. Bit types his past summer, during the remodeling of my kitchen, I was faced with the task of making 31 Tcabinet doors. I needed speed and simplicity, so I broke out my router table and a set of cope-and- stick router bits. These bit combinations allow you to rout door frames quickly, in two steps. The first bit routs a profile and panel groove on the inside edge of all the Doors Made Easy TWO-BIT frame parts. The second bit is a mirror image of the SET first, routing a coped profile and a stub tenon on the ends of the frame rails. What you create is not a traditional mortise-and- tenon joint. But done right, it gives you a cabinet door that’s just as strong. The key is to use a flat panel of plywood Router bits for door or medium-density fiberboard (MDF) that’s glued in place— not a raised panel, which is designed to float. All in all, I was frames are referred to in able to build all 31 doors in the course of a weekend, from woodworking catalogs as “cope and stick” or “rail milling lumber to finish sanding. and stile” bits. Their function is to rout a profile and a panel groove on Different types of cope-and-stick bits are available, with an the inside edge of the frame parts and to cope the ends of the array of profiles from simple thumbnails to more ornate ogees rails to fit that profiled edge.
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DOOR and DRAWER STYLE SELECTION Choosing Your Door and Drawer Style
DOOR AND DRAWER STYLE SELECTION Choosing Your Door And Drawer Style The one thing that will affect the look of your kitchen perhaps more than anything else is the style of your cabinet door and drawer fronts. And there are many styles available to you. Traditional cope and stick, slab, or mitered construction. Raised or flat (recessed) panels. Ogee, square, or regular beads. And more…So many choices! I’d like to take a moment to help parse out the details. We’ll look at the different types of construction, the options for material, edge, bead, and panel profiles, and some other door and drawer choices that may interest you. Construction There are three main types of door construction: 1. Traditional (also known as mortised or cope and stick) 2. Mitered 3. Slab Traditional Doors A door or drawer style called “Traditional” is made of five pieces, which is why they are sometimes called “5-Piece doors” or “5-Piece drawers”. Think of this type of door as a picture frame that has a top and bottom rail (the horizontal members of the frame), a left and right stile (the vertical members of the frame) that together house a center panel (which is where the glass would be in a picture frame). For the frame, you can choose the style of the outside edge profile and the framing bead, which is the inside edge profile. Further, you can choose either a raised or flat center panel. If you choose a raised panel, then you will have to decide on the raised panel profiles from a number of options.
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Rails & Stiles
Rails & Stiles MLCS is proud to offer an extensive variety of bits to make rail and All varieties stile frames for doors. These frames use “cope and stick” joints at the corners, which give a strong tongue and groove joint and a mitered moulding look on the inside detail. A groove or rabbet is also created at the same time to hold a raised, flat, or glass panel. Router: A reliable quality router will cost over $120 and be worth every penny. MLCS carries bit sets for either 1/4” or 1/2” collets. The 1/2” collet is more versatile, because it accepts a wider variety of bits including the larger 3 1/2” Raised Panel cutters. 1-1/2 to 2 HP is powerful enough for most work. In all cases, we strongly recommend being able to slow the speed of the router, either with the MLCS #9000 Router Speed Control or one that is built into your router. This will enable you to better control the workpiece and minimize burning on the more resinous woods such as cherry or maple. Speed control is especially important on less expensive routers, as bits can vibrate excessively at full speed. Finally, the router should be table-mounted. A sturdy, flat router table and a solid squared fence are important for producing quality doors. Routing rails and stiles freehand is NOT recommended. Choosing Your Materials Rails and Stiles : Wood for your rails and stiles should be straight- grained and knot free. Ends and edges should be square to the face of the wood.
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Making Stub-Tenon Doors
Making Stub-tenon Doors The stub-tenon joint will never be the super- hero of your joinery arsenal because it doesnʼt have the stuff necessary to be a strong joint. The mating parts are short (hence the “stub” moniker) and itʼs housed on only two sides: the face cheeks of the tenon. There is sufficient glue surface, but the cross-grain orientation compromises the glue joint. In the pantheon of woodworking joints, the stub-tenon joint may be more accurately described as a 90-pound weakling. But even so, this can be sufficient for smaller, lightweight doors that donʼt take a lot of abuse. For example, you wouldnʼt choose this joint for kitchen cabinet doors or built-ins for the kidsʼ playroom. But itʼs OK to use a stub-tenon door for a vanity cabinet or for a project thatʼs built as much for looks as it is for service. Once a door weighs more than four or five pounds, or is larger than 18" x 24", you must abandon the stub-tenon joint for a more substantial one. Mortise-and-tenon construction, dowels, loose tenons and even biscuit joints are superior choices for larger, heavier doors. So why use a stub-tenon joint? Well, itʼs easy to make because it requires a minimal amount of setup time regardless of the method you choose to cut the joint. Itʼs usually cut with a router in a table or on the table saw using a stack dado set. The ease of setup is because the same groove thatʼs cut to receive the panel doubles as the groove for the stub tenon.
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The ABC's of Panel Door Construction
The ABC’s of panel door construction In our step-by-step example of panel door construction, we used the following: - CMT Rail & Stile set (item #891.502.11) - CMT Reverse Glue Joint (item #855.501.11) R tile - pre-cut to length stiles - 19mm thick x 57mm wide ail S Panel - pre-cut to length rails - 19mm thick x 57mm wide le - panel - 16mm thick Sti - scrap stock The CMT Rail & Stile set was designed ideally for the Panel construction of panel doors from 19mm thick stock, however any variation of size up to 22mm thick can be le Rail used. Remember to adjust your measurements and R Sti cutting depths according to the wood thickness you ail use. ILLUSTRATION A ILLUSTRATION B STOCK STOCK ROUTER TABLE ROUTER TABLE MILLING THE RAILS AND STILES First make trial cuts of the cope profile (rail) and the stick profile (stile) in scrap stock and check the accuracy of the joint. This is extremely important when working at maximum thickness (22mm). Make sure your stock is flat and cut straight with square edges. Using the CMT Stile Bit shown in illustration A, place the stock front face-down on the router table and mill the stick profile in the stile and rail pieces. To mill the rails, use the CMT Rail Bit shown in illustration A, position the rails face-down on the router table and mill the cope profile in the ends. If you are milling cope and stick profiles before cutting the rails and sti- les to length, be sure to make the proper calculations before cutting the rails.
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Step-By-Step Raised Panel Door Construction
Step-By-Step Raised Panel Door Construction Use these instructions with any of CMT’s Kitchen Sets, or with the 800.512.11 - 800.513.11 Raised Panel or Rail and Stile Sets sold individually. 800.514.11 - 800.516.11 In our step by step example of panel door construction, we used the following: - CMT Rail & Stile set (item # 891.502.11) - Raised panel bit (item # 890.502.11) - CMT Reverse Glue Joint (item #855.501.11 not included) - pre-cut stiles - 3/4” thick x 2-7/16” wide - pre-cut rails - 3/4” thick x 2-7/16” wide - panel - 3/4” thick - scrap stock The CMT Rail & Stile set was designed ideally for the construction of panel doors from 3/4” thick stock, however any variation of size up to 7/8” thick can be used. Remember to adjust your measurements and cutting depths according to the wood thickness you use. MILLING THE RAILS AND STILES process. This assures you will FENCE First make trial cuts of the cope profile (rail) and the stick profile (stile) have the best side of your in scrap stock and check the accuracy of the joint. This is extremely stock as a front face. If a third important when working at maximum thickness (7/8”). Make sure your panel is required, mill one cut stock is flat and cut straight with square edges. Using the CMT Stile Bit edge of the piece as instructed above, turn the piece over and shown in Illustration 1, place the stock front face side down on the ROUTER TABLE router table and mill the stick profile in the stile and rail pieces.
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Fundamentals
fundamentals hat began years ago as a simple homemade Getting started device to hold a router has evolved into a common, and often indispensable, piece of shop equipment. Regardless of its level of with router tables sophistication, when set up correctly, a router in a table is frequently simpler and more stable GET THE MOST FROM THIS to use than a handheld router and, in many cases, will increase theW accuracy of your work. I’ll explain what you’ll want from WORKSHOP WORKHORSE a router table, the basics of using them, and the tasks at which BY BOB VAN DYKE they excel. Types of tables A router table can be anything from a piece of MDF with a router screwed to it and a board clamped across the top as a fence, to a benchtop model, to a complex, freestanding piece of expensive equipment. Set up and used correctly, they all accomplish the same thing and work the same way. 24 FINE WOODWORKING Photos: Barry NM Dima; drawings: John Tetreault COPYRIGHT 2018 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted. • Fine Woodworking #270 - Sep/Oct 2018 C ENTER for F URNITURE Now in store C RAFTSMANSHIP Our 100% washed chino Teaching Creative Excellence Fine Woodworking hat is soft and strong, with an adjustable strap. Made in the USA Rockport, Maine Shop TauntonStore.com/gear www.woodschool.org QUALITY WOODWORKING TOOLS • SUPPLIES • ADVICE® When Roughing Out … Or Adding Details Liogier Tools Give A Professional Touch Liogier Rasps and Rifflers are meticulously handcrafted from carefully selected steel cast in France using a decades-old process proven to produce thousands of perfectly hand stitched teeth capable of handling many shaping tasks, from roughing out a leg to delicate fine-tuning.
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(12) United States Patent (10) Patent No.: US 8,209,927 B2 Cottier Et Al
US008209927B2 (12) United States Patent (10) Patent No.: US 8,209,927 B2 Cottier et al. (45) Date of Patent: Jul. 3, 2012 (54) STRUCTURAL FIBER CEMENT BUILDING 37.2%J. w A 8. 3. itygeberg et al.1 MATERLALS 2,377,484 A 6, 1945 Elmendof 2,676,892 A 4, 1954 McLaughlin (75) Inventors: John Sydney Cottier, Oatley (AU); 2,797,201 A 6, 1957 Veatch December Rose Cowen, Yucaipa, CA 2.978,340 A 4, 1961 Veatch et al. (US); Remi Dunoyer, Randwick (AU); 39. A 233 Malik Steven Duselis, Baulkham Hills (AU); 3.264,135 A 8, 1966 Sin James Albert Gleeson, North Curl Curl 3.35 14 14 A 5, 1967 Veli (AU); Amitabha Kumar, Claremont, 3,360,392 A 12/1967 Modet al. CA (US) 3,365,315. A 1/1968 Becket al. 3,501,324 A 3, 1970 Kubo ck (73) Assignee: James Hardie Technology Limited, SE A 3229 East . 52,125.5 Dublin (IE) 3,748,100 A 7, 1973 ForSeth (*) Notice: Subject to any disclaimer, the term of this (Continued) patent is extended or adjusted under 35 FOREIGN PATENT DOCUMENTS U.S.C. 154(b) by 928 days. AR 2O6788 A1 8/1976 (21) Appl. No.: 11/961,749 (Continued) (22) Filed: Dec. 20, 2007 OTHER PUBLICATIONS O O Skaggs, C.B. et al "Applications of Rheological Modifiers and (65) Prior Publication Data Superplasticizers in Cementitious System” American Concrete Insti US 2009/0162602 A1 Jun. 25, 2009 tute SP (1994), SP-148, 189-207. (Continued) (51) Int. Cl. E04C I/00 (2006.01) Primary Examiner — Basil Katcheves (52) U.S.
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Rails & Stiles
Rails & Stiles All varieties MLCS is proud to offer an extensive variety of bits to make rail and stile frames for doors. These frames use “cope and stick” joints at the corners, which give a strong tongue and groove joint and a mitered molding look on the inside detail. A groove or rabbet is also created at the same time to hold a raised, flat, or glass panel. Router: A reliable quality router will cost over $120 and be worth every penny. MLCS carries bit sets for either 1/4” or 1/2” collets. The 1/2” collet is more versatile, because it accepts a wider variety of bits, including the larger 3 1/2” Raised Panel cutters. 1-1/2 to 2 HP is powerful enough for most work. In all cases, we strongly recommend being able to slow the speed of the router, either with the MLCS #9400 or #9410 Router Speed Control or one that is built into your router. This will enable you to better control the work piece and minimize burning on the more resinous woods such as cherry or maple. Speed control is especially important on less expensive routers, as bits can vibrate excessively at full speed. Finally, the router should be table-mounted. A sturdy, flat router table and a solid squared fence are important for producing quality doors. Routing rails and stiles freehand is NOT recommended. Choosing Your Materials Rails and Stiles: Wood for your rails and stiles should be straight- grained and knot free. Ends and edges should be square to the face of the wood.
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Custom Cabinet Doors
Sherwood Industries Custom Cabinet Doors Whether you’re building new cabinets or refacing old cabinets, Sherwood has the cabinet door solution for you. A time-honored method for Our miter-joined Stick & Cope joining rails and stiles. Rails, doors have been Miter doors or horizontal members of a designed to share the door frame, are “coped” on same maximum edge the ends, as well as “stuck” grain exposure as our along their inside edges. The stick & cope joints vertical members of the door through the use of frame, or stiles, have “stick- classic mortise and ing” along their inside edges. tenon joinery. The Hence the term stick & cope. tenon, or tongue, has The tenon, or tongue, on the coped end of the rail, along with the matching a matching groove, or mortise, in the mating component. inside profile shape on the rail and the stile, have sufficient edge grain to This ensures maximum edge grain exposure in a joint that would help ensure a good glue joint. Modern woodworking adhesives do not bond otherwise have too much end grain for acceptable adhesion. well in end grain applications, so it is important to have as much edge, or All of our doors and drawer front assemblies are pinned from face grain, as possible in any glue joint. the backside for added stability. for more info fax order forms email order forms to 1-800-277-8888 to 1-800-277-0443 [email protected] Table of Contents General Information Sherwood General InformatIon and You'll find our most common design options in Warranty SpecIfIcatIonS ⸠⸠ 2-3 the following pages.
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Cabinetmaking Simplified Every Year Professional and WALL CABINETS Amateur Woodworkers Build Thousands of Cabinets
Introduction to Cabinetmaking Cabinetmaking Simplified Every year professional and WALL CABINETS amateur woodworkers build thousands of cabinets. One of the biggest misconceptions about building cabinets is that you need a shop full of ex- 3-A pensive machinery to achieve professional results. On the contrary, cabinets are actually quite simple constructions that with a few well-designed tools can be very easy to build. Kreg Jigs®, invented in the late 30” 1980’s have changed the way many woodworkers choose to 12” build. Panel Doors This booklet is designed to act as a primer to get you started in cabinetmaking. Rather than offering a lot of theory we strive Face Frame to teach you cabinetmaking by example. 18” Drawer 3-B Front The simple example that we chose to build in this book- Counter Top let is a 15” wide base cabinet 1-1/2” with one drawer and one door. 25” This is a good place to start because it is full sized and yet 23-1/4” small enough so one person 24” can build the whole thing with- out any help. Once you build this cabinet and learn the sys- 36” 34-1/2” tem you will be able to build Cabinet an entire kitchen. Using this Side system you will also be able to build professional looking 30” bookcases, display cabinets, entertainment centers and just about any other type of cabi- 4-1/2” Panel Doors net that you would like. 20-1/4” Face Frame BASE CABINETS Pg. 3 Introduction to Cabinetmaking Don’t expect the first cabinet you build to be perfect.
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