— Diving the Islands

BahamasText and photos by Charles Stirling

The Bahamas are an English speaking island nation known to most of us, but for very diverse reasons. For many living in Florida or nearby, it’s a location for a quick day or weekend break for beach or casino. For Europeans, it’s an offshore financial and investment capital. To many, it’s the location for films and TV programs that feature water and sea, such as the Pirates of The Caribbean, The Spy Who Loved Me, or even the TV series, Flipper, plus many others. For divers, we think of Blue Holes and technical dives or one of the best places to see sharks.

Dive master holds a Caribbean shark at UNEXSO showing it in its state of stupor

Are the Bahamas a location worth coast, the Mediterranean a short North America the yes decision One of the reasons for the divers? Without rivers visibility is dives with backup teams and lots going to as a visiting recreational flight away, the Red Sea easily should be even easier. They increasing use of the Bahamas excellent, water are of equipment, but some of this diver? From an English diver’s accessible, YES I still think the would be a good place to learn for filming is of course the good tropical or near. The diving is possible and open for the perspective, with the multitude Bahamas offer something worth to dive with the family yet still offer diving conditions, so is that diving rapidly becomes one for recreational diver. Shark sighting of wreck dives around our UK going for. Of course if you are in a lot to experienced divers. enough to attract sports oriented technical or even very technical is easily possible either naturally or

54 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Bahamas

on specialist shark dives. Besides these two big attractions are the absolutely stunning great walls, many wrecks, and a big diversity in coral reefs with the worlds third longest barrier reef all giving divers plenty to see. Along with this it’s not overly crowded and can be very personal. Diving in the Bahamas can of course be done from a variety of boats often out of Florida as it’s so close. This gives a good all American experience, easy multiple dives a day and depending on the trip either a single or multiple objectives. It does mean being on a boat most of the time but with some of the large luxury ones it’s not necessarily in cramped quarters. Liveaboard trips also start from Nassau, Grand Bahama and Exumas. I’ve not done this, maybe another trip another time. I do enjoy time for exploring land exposure. The tourism attraction and even fish feeds in some locations. based opportunities, meeting local benefits of sharks mean many How much should people “interfere” people and having the variety that operators offer a “shark dive” with with natural system? As a diver, can come from being firmly planted sharks being fed. OK, we now have environmentalist and photographer on land even though I wasn’t able controversy! This is a touchy subject I try not to disturb the environment, to do much of this because of time as many believe that divers should we are all told / trained not to touch constraints, but the theory is present. never interact or in any way influence when diving, to leave only bubbles any animal on any dive, while others (or spend the money on a Types of dives are happy to spearfish or collect and don’t even do that). Most sharks Sharks always seem high on most shellfish. It’s the “leave only bubbles” are not going to be interested in being diver’s “want to see” list. Some debate. There is also the controversy near divers, they are shy, we are not consider the Bahamas as one of of possibly altering behaviour by food, and they are wide ranging, so, LEFT TO RIGHT: Nassau groupers help to keep reefs healthy by controlling smaller fish but still want a the world’s best places to have that associating people with feeding which worldwide, attracting them into view clean occasionally. One problem for these important fish is they are tasty to humans; Yellowline arrow introduction or even an extensive has produced a ban on shark feeds is done with chumming or feeding of crab; Soft corals are plentiful on some sites, often as individuals in small patches not as great masses 55 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Shark taken along the line of divers at UNEXSO to be seen and touched (left); Shark feeding site but not a feeding dive travel and the sharks ignored divers (below) Bahamas site on the bottom. We were lined up the back. Talking to some of the divers kneeling on the sand shoulder to shoulder after, all agreed this was great and one with our backs to a section of wreck, OK, experienced diver offered the comment an old chamber, with that the feed then touching a shark was hands kept out of the way. Once settled the highlight of all his diving experiences. then the chain mail clad shark feeder Previously he had been terrified by even opened a container of fish to hand feed the thought of a shark. This quiescent one fish at a time to any individual shark behaviour isn’t understood but is well that was closest. This was started first in documented. The sharks having been front of the whole group, as the shark fed, contacts made, the divers were temperaments were judged as OK the free to look for sharks teeth in the sand feeding moved closer along the length of for another 10 minutes before being the line for each diver. Yes, sharks would led back to the surface with the safety be everywhere coming into the feed just diver. The woman shark feeder, the overhead or along in front. The sharks official photographer and I stayed down made direct contact with the person longer and in these calm conditions feeding being rather gentle in taking the she was able to rest one of the larger food from her hand. sharks in her lap for nearly 6 minutes. After the food was gone she put her Handling the sharks also meant fish hooks gloved hand on one of the smaller and sometimes ectoparasites could be shark’s nose which made it go into a removed. quiescent, almost stupor like state and So is the shark behaviour modified this animal was gently held and taken with this interaction? Doing a dive in the along the line for each visitor to touch on same area without the feeding some

some sort. It’s a controversy that some to the public. Each dive operator aware of them as they aren’t frequently see as very important, wanting to stop had slightly different approaches and seen so interest is lost for many. The the feeding’ while others see it as a methods to their shark feeds, but all cliché of “out of sight out of mind” could tsunami in a tea cup. Whichever, it is had sharks to see up close. I ended up be appropriate. done here. thinking these dives were a worthwhile UNEXSO wants to demonstrate that Yes, the right dive site in the Bahamas introduction for many so I rather broke sharks are not wanton killers and you will see sharks going about their my own rules. Actually they were great The most hands on and interactive business off in the distance. Occasionally fun and educational, you would really be was UNEXSO, Underwater Explorers if you can be very stealthy its possible to missing a lot if not going on at least one Society, on Grand Bahama who use a get a bit closer. Getting really close I did of these dives. site called “Shark Junction”. After a short shark feed dives with 3 of the popular boat trip a thorough briefing was given operators. First, all 3 were very safety Shark Dives which covered safety and organisation conscious with visiting divers. They were Sharks and fish do inevitably modify of the dive. They then went on to place aware of how it might change behaviour behavior when fed; they will learn a lot of emphasis on how they want so amounts and frequency of food was the sound of a boat or divers with a to demonstrate that sharks are not an limited and the food was natural, i.e. pavlovian response to find food. How automatic menace to divers and the fish. None fed enough to be a significant important is this, will it increase their need for divers to be ambassadors portion of a shark’s normal daily needs. chance of being caught by fisherman or spreading the word that sharks are not One of the big things they are concerned be a to us? Does the increased wanton killers. about is the plummeting numbers of interest from divers seeing them outweigh The dive starts with all entering the sharks worldwide and how incredibly the changes. Shark feeding in Hawaii water about the same time to follow a important it is to bring this awareness was banned in 2002, now divers are not safety diver all together down to a sandy

56 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Shark encounter with Stuart Cove’s (left); Small Hope Bay shark encounter with a more hands off approach still had plenty of sharks up close and Bahamas travel personal (below) short but still to an area away from time was allowed for tooth hunting much of the other diving, the site before the group was escorted back was again a sandy one near an to the boat. area with patch coral reefs and Diving this site without a feed in deep drop off. After the briefing progress sharks were around but not and entering the water together interested in divers. During the feed divers were organised in pairs a second boat with snorkellers was behind small mounds of rocks in stationed a distance away but close a circle but with space between enough for them to watch and the buddy pairs. The food, fish, was sharks weren’t interested in this. lowered in a hinged lidded steel Different approaches, but all box for the shark feeder to spear three operations provided a good out individual fish to feed to an number of sharks, predominately appropriate shark. As conditions or all being Caribbean Reef sharks, were judged safe this was then done which might be a bit seasonal, to in front of each buddy pair allowing be seen up close (one nurse shark a photographer to take pictures of a had turned up to play with the feed swirling mass of sharks around each tube at UNEXSO). These sites had pair in turn. Here sharks could easily been chosen as near deep drop offs move between as well as above where the sharks would normally be the divers so close encounters found and away from other activity. were frequent and from multiple Feeding in these ways didn’t appear directions. At the finish a short to be detrimental to either the sharks

sharks were present but none would venture Andros Island, does fewer feeds, does them still skim over the top and past the divers. closer than I would have expected, i.e. at a location some distance from their other Once the fish was gone the sharks dispersed they frustratingly kept their distance. It was main dive sites and has no direct interaction. but could still be seen around the area while also noted that the number of sharks which They keep the site secret, even to the point the divers went looking for lost sharks teeth in turn up at the feed varies and they are not of having the permanent buoy tied below the sand. always the same ones. So this population of water so fisherman don’t target the area. Caribbean Reef sharks maintained at least a The divers are organised again on a sandy Stuart Cove’s Dive semblance of normal behaviour. area this time in a semicircle. When all was —Nassau/Paradise Island wanted divers to settled with the divers a frozen ball of fish have a good view of sharks. Small Hope Bay Lodge was lowered on a steel rope stretched tight Somewhat between the first two in —Andros Island didn’t want to associate between a bottom ring and top buoy so approach, maybe with a bit more divers with food. sharks helped themselves as the fish ball showmanship, they wanted to have At the opposite end of the spectrum on melted. This kept the divers at a moderate divers see sharks up close but without the shark feeds Small Hope Bay Lodge, on distance from the feeding but sharks would interaction of UNEXSO. The boat ride was

57 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Large hard corals can be seen even on relatively shallow dives and without a for warmth, Pagoda Reef, Exuma (left); Sea fans near the top of the reef at Hole in the Bahamas travel Wall, Cat Island (below) invertebrates. fish doesn’t seem as high as might be As in so many other expected. What will be noticed is often environments there are worries about the lack of larger fish though the range both bleaching and coral disease, but of species is reasonable. Different sites here the visiting diver doesn’t seem likely and even more so the different islands to find large areas of dead reef. What will show variety as would be expected will be seen are patches or expanses of considering the huge area and varying actively growing hard coral on the top human densities covered by the country. of older coral which is becoming part of The range of sharks present does give an the inorganic hard surface needed for indication that the reefs and environment new growth. Whether the new growth is are generally healthy as top predators keeping pace with coral die-back can’t need food and that food also needs to be judged in a short visit and is more in eat. the realm of long term research but what Large fish, even predatory ones such as can be seen is good. the Nassau Grouper, have been shown As so many other of our marine as necessary for healthy reefs. Research habitats the Bahamas have been in the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park over fished. The numbers and sizes of found, with protection, the grouper

or divers, more akin to putting a bird location. Jim Abernethy’s Scuba for many tropical dive destinations feeder out in the back garden. Adventures liveaboard shark trips, and it’s no different in the Bahamas. out of Florida to Tiger Bay off Andros On offer will be the worlds 3rd Hawk’s Nest Island and other Bahamas locations, longest barrier reef, off Andros Island, —Cat Island had fisherman attract are designed specifically to see and other shorter barrier reef off other sharks. dive with sharks and the variety can islands, patch reefs, small and large On Cat Island there wasn’t a shark be good with many different species pinnacles and more. With tunnels, feed, but instead an impressive depending on location. Generally chimneys, canyons, sand shoots and turnout could happen when visiting these are brought in by chumming of course walls all represented as sports fisherman cleaned fish on and the trips are a favorite for types of structures within the overall the end of the jetty in the evening, photographers. At least 9 species of systems. The corals themselves seem and similar attractions occurred on sharks can be seen in the Bahamas in reasonably healthy condition in the Andros. Otherwise it was seeing with probably the largest being the locations I’ve visited, with a diversity sharks generally along the reefs on Great Hammerheads and Whale of both hard and soft coral species Cat Island, again at a distance but Sharks. dependent on the actual site. But, a thrill none the less. Occasionally a corals are only part of the coral reef nurse or reef shark was seen sleeping Coral Reefs ecosystem and its the reef ecosystem under an overhang. On Exuma Island So, you dive or maybe you don’t dive we are really interested in when a shark feed was briefly tried at one with sharks on one of these organised diving. That ecosystem has the hard location but it attracted in more sand shark attractions, what else? Coral corals forming the basic structure tiger sharks so was discontinued as reefs are fantastically complex and providing nooks and crannies thought possibly dangerous for the ecosystems and one of the big things which can act as homes for fish and

58 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Bahamas coral heads the arrow crabs and feather stars are out the, parrot fish in. Maybe it’s the shallow fore reef of Jean’s Dream on Andros, a coral garden with a topography of hard coral columns for as far as one could swim in any direction. The columns or heads maybe a foot or two in diameter, 6 foot high a few foot apart, some acting as cleaning stations with little yellow wrasse and blue damsel fish. The blue surgeon fish, parrotfish, French grunts or smaller grouper would call in the cleaners with a flick of the tail and a vertical orientation. The hard corals having the usual Christmas Tree worms, the banded coral shrimps and other invertebrate life. Maybe you dive Duck Cay off Exuma with its sandy rivulets running between the good mix of hard corals in large bommies and the lobsters hiding under ledges. who have come in, fished to load the fish are needed to keep site to have it come alive with Just a little deeper might be holds with tons of fish bedded the reefs healthy and with time more bioluminescence before something like that on Caves Reef down in ice then departed to hopefully what we see as divers finding your light attracts krill that out of Grand Bahama with its pay for the holiday by selling the will improve from good to great. can literally explode when hit by deep hard coral gullies and shoals catch privately back in the USA. Diving the reefs can be as a nematocyst from a seemingly of good sized goat fish, large The Bahamas government have relaxed as a shore or maybe a docile coral. Down amongst the parrot fish and squirrel fish holding recently, January 2007, started boat dive in a few meters depth trying to control this with tough at some locations, but most often new legislation and catch limits. will be by short boat trip with Caribbean Trumpetfish (above); Smallmouth grunts (top right), often along Others put the over fishing down depths to the more usual 10 to with French grunts, were an ever present fish; Caribbean Spiny Lobster seen on to Bahamians who supply local 30 m not counting some of the many dives (bottom right) restaurants on a casual basis. walls which can be sheer with Protection is being provided effectively no bottom. The patch were able to grow large. They protection from human predation in additon to fishing limits with reefs often have sand adjacent are predating on parrotfish and allowed healthier reefs in several important protected providing a reef friendly diver others which eat algae off the protected zones due to a better areas: the Exumas Land and Sea entry point which can cater for all reef, so at first the worry was fewer distribution of fish sizes. This over Park and the Pelican Cays Land levels of experience. parrotfish would mean more spilled to adjacent areas which and Sea Park plus a few small For example on Cat Island out algae smothering coral. Instead it then had both better fish to catch sites. These protected locations of Hawk’s Nest it can be a stroll was found the grouper predated and better reefs. The lessons have are showing larger sizes and to the beach and dive staghorn smaller bite size fish reducing them been learned, just not acted on, populations of both fish, conch coral with schools of yellow in number but allowing some as so often the case, we need and lobster. Campaigners have snapper to keep you company. to grow beyond predated size. many more protected zones. been working on adding other Or a night dive on Andros with These larger parrotfish graze more Some put the blame for low protected areas but progress flashing underwater luminescence seaweed than the larger numbers fish numbers and small size on big seems slow according to on the boat ride out, then after of smaller fish. Complicated, but American pleasure fishing boats environmental groups. Whatever, slipping into the dark water on

59 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Theo’s wreck One of two sisters Bahamas travel the “Playground” just off Cat Those sunk for diver tourism are Islands Hawks Nest, or Turnbull’s as interesting or even more so Gut off Andros. To float along a as accidental ones and offer wall with with table corals, whip both habitat and structure to corals extending out, the shark explore. What is it that wrecks lazing along above you, the turtle do to attract divers? A bit of keeping you company gives a adventure, often some history, a fantastic feeling. man made structure to explore Not all areas of wall will feel the in a way impossible on land, they same. On the northerly islands are habitats and, hey, it can just of Grand Bahama, Andros or be fun. There are way to many in Paradise some of the walls edging the Bahamas too visit them all, I the deep channels started with managed a few: Papa Doc and the flat reef top then 50 degree Theos Wreck on Grand Bahama, sloping sandy sections with only the Marion on Andros, the Twin scattered coral growth down Sisters out of New Providence to a deep diver depth over were all great fun dives. which much of the dive was conducted, this before dropping Theos Wreck Theos Wreck, a 70 to near vertical and below live metres (230 feet) long cement coral depths. These sections are hauling freighter was purposely not as dramatic so check the sunk in 1982 by the suggestion descriptions with the dive shop. of Theo Galanopoulos as a This contrasted with walls at gift, the first of the Cat Island and I gather on Long Bahamas and tourist attraction Island and others where a reef for the Bahamas government. It top possibly as shallow as 10 m is rated as one of the best dives depth could immediately change of Grand Bahama by many and to vertical and be covered in it is a great dive. It lies at 30 m splendid live coral for some (100 ft) in an area with some tidal distance down the sheer face. currents so is treated as a dive for Many of the areas of wall, the experienced. The ship was indeed other reef areas, have built in Norway in 1954 as the M/S been little explored on many of Logna and used for cargo sailing the island. Some of my dives on between Spain and Norway Cat Island my buddy and I were then bought by the Bahama the only ones present without Cement Company to carry sand another boat let alone a diver between Florida and Nassau and seen the whole day while much Eleuthera. A refit couldn’t be of the reef on Andros hasn’t financed economically so it was been fully explored. Check out decommissioned and Theo came the Family or Out Islands for the up with his suggestion. Now it unexplored. Yes, you can have has good growth of gorgonians, Papa Doc wreck At nearly the look, upright on its keel and small great dives on coral reefs, you sponges and corals with grunts, other end of the scale from Theos enough to easily take in, possibly don’t need to be a specialist in a few lobster, eels and more is the Papa Doc wreck which is with time to explore the adjacent position near the bottom, maybe understatement and you can go these animals to enjoy them and making it home with visits from the a big boat really not a ship. It reef as well. a small reef shark cruising past on getting deeper till you drop what they have produced. occasional shark, ray or turtle. It’s came about as the original by this or other sites with tube or barrel over the edge of a wall. It can an easy wreck to penetrate with name was a gun runners wooden The Marion Andros Island, The sponges. What will be seen does feel incredible gliding through Bored with coral? open holds and access to the vessel now all but gone. The Marion, a construction barge change with depth, the largest a large archway or navigating Wrecks, both ancient and engine room with enough space site was popular so a new steel with crane was commissioned differences above or below the 7 a narrow coral tunnel to exit in modern, accidentally or purposely so it doesn’t feel claustrophobic vessel, 50 foot length, was added to move some equipment for to 10m depth band. The sites are clear blue hovering over 1000 sunk are on many of the islands and it looks like a ship not just a in the same location in 45 foot of the US Navy AUTEC base in 1988. numerous just to make a major m (3000 ft) of nothingness as at and many a diver’s “to do” list. scrap yard. water. It looks like a boat should It happened that trying to lift a

60 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Barral sponges (left) of a number of species along with other sponges commonly seen at some locations; Divers (below) in the Bahamas travel buoy a bit heavier than its rated Bomber from ‘Thunderball’, the one of the problems with the which were formed when the lifting capacity didn’t quite Treasure Wreck wreck built as a Bahamas, there can be too sea level was low enough to work, it sank, giving us a good prop for ‘Into the Blue’ and sunk much to do and see. For a real leave the islands high and barge with a lot of interesting in 2004 along with many others wreck junkie it will take a bit of dry. These are often listed on shapes in the crane to swim which can be dived. I only extra research finding which itineraries but not always visited around at a maximum depth of managed the Carib Breeze and island offers the most of what regularly either due to some 70 feet (21 metres) on a white Tropic Breeze Wrecks site also you want to see then organising having awkward locations, sandy seabed. A fun dive with known locally as the Twin Sisters. a specific itinerary with a dive with others the potential to explore; maybe its These are two 200 foot tankers shop before arriving, as the requirements don’t place them not going to enter the records donated by Shell and sunk next normal fare offers variety not at the recreational level. I as a classic site but instead will to each other in 2000 to create specialisation. For my British suspect some divers also find show you a grouper or two, an artificial reef. They sit in cohort wreckies, the wrecks, blue holes less interesting then French angelfish, grey snapper, about 70 foot on a white sandy as for most diving, are no take first imagined as they have fairy basslets, goatfish. maybe bottom just next to a sand slope zones so you can’t bring back dived ones which can be seen the resident eel and passing covered in garden eels. On the odd chunk of brass or old as “just a clear blue water dive barracuda. While if you look top of the shallow plateau, up porthole. in a hole without much else” hard enough invading lion fish the sand slope, the garden eels but this depends greatly on the may also be found. attract in visiting rays and turtles Blue holes individual site. Andros Island browse the eel grass. Both the All of the main islands of the has the best known ones and is Film set wrecks New wrecks are ship shape in great Bahamas have blue holes as the capital for blue holes with Providence has remnants of film condition giving more than might be expected from the at least 178 on land another 50 set wrecks such as the vessel enough to visit for a dive or two. geological history. Blue holes or more in the sea, more than Tears of Allah from ‘Never Say I’ve only had a taster of the generally are the collapsed anywhere else in the world. Never Again’ and the Vulcan possible wrecks on offer, maybe roof to an underground cave Some of these are classics

of diving history both in exploration Bahamas and measures about 300 expeditions and resulting from this in foot across at the top. Its entrance filming terms. region is large and diverse enough One of the exceptional marine to need a number of dives just to see ones known as the Great Blue Hole all the potential at this level. Most or as King Kong’s Cavern is visited by commonly one descends to the rim Small Hope Bay Lodge on a regular at 12 m (40 foot) over its edge and basis. It is the second deepest in the down an ancient waterfall chute

61 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: You may find Atlantic bottlenose dolphins out in the wild if you Bahamas travel are lucky, these off Andros; Yellow sub get together; Fish meet the yellow sub Swimming with dolphins Another activity which, here in vehicles, OK there the UK really gets the are some differences controversy going with from most others. a few, is swimming Here you have a with dolphins. It’s bubble top even an activity done allowing for your hair in many countries to stay dry, glasses around North America to be worn, and no and the Caribbean need for any previous and in the better scuba experience. offerings seen as fun- They are free ranging but maybe show non diving family members educational. The programme at UNEXSO tethered to the surface with some of what we see. For experienced strives to be very dolphin friendly with a float and accompanied by divers it may seem a little tame, but controlled conditions so no harassment swimming safety one comment I heard was that with the and good conditions. Three levels of attendants. The participants bubble top they had a much wider all interaction are offered; standing in the have a briefing on shore, join round view so could better understand water with them, swimming with them the and proceed to the reef than ever with the more in confined conditions and swimming a rather good area of shallow restricted view through a mask. with them in open seas encounters. The coral reef with sandy bottom adjacent. The SUBs are winched overboard with before continuing along under a huge into twin set realms with full introductions the bubble top above overhang effectively producing a cavern then a range of great dives that require water level where of amphitheatre proportions. Giant this form of for blue hole, you enter it before it boulders are wedged floor to ceiling here cave and deeper dives on walls along is lowered further and and the dive continues, depending on with helium for .. They have freed. The new driver air, under and among crevices of these and can mix to requirements including heads off, maybe boulders exiting in what they call the big hot mixes. They didn’t have with a gentle crash or room before returning to the waterfall on offer, but can arrange supplies of two with other SUBs chute. More specialist dives, still at the absorbent. as steering is learned, recreational level, explore other areas to explore along the around this blue holes entrance and Life is not all diving reef at 15 foot depth tunnels leading off it to other entrance With the tourism hat on, the Bahamas and hair still dry. The points while technical divers could have offer the non-diver some attractions attendants on scuba a field day exploring deeper reaches of which are at least approaching the point out interesting it. The Great Blue Hole is a fantastic site realms of and what we find so features and fish then and totally blows the concept of blue exciting about our special underwater feed tiny amounts of holes just being plain boring holes in the world. Yes, they do have aquaria but fish feed, which brings ground. It does need to be dived on an moving beyond that are little Yellow in absolutely hordes of outgoing , preferably in the morning Submarines at Stuart Cove’s Diving in yellow jacks and more, for better light penetration, but isn’t Nassau/Paradise Island. in front of each SUB constrictive nor need lights. diver. As a note on the more technical side Littler Yellow Sub To a diver the Yellow These SUBs seem Small Hope can take recreational divers Submarines are manned dive propulsion a stunning way to

62 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Learn to just relax; Exploring the mangroves at Lucaya National Park on the boardwalk Not everything is diving on Grand Bahama even if it is wet at times; Dive boats weren’t overcrowded, this one travel at UNEXSO Bahamas Topside On Exuma I stayed ­—Life, besides not being all diving, not all at the Club Peace and of the Bahamas is underwater Plenty, Georgetown, Americans comment that the Bahamas diving with the attached are now an expensive destination, while Exuma Scuba, all very from England I noticed it was just a little convenient except less expensive than staying at home. ordering lunch in the Value partly depends on expectations hotel between dives took and what you do. The Family Islands (i.e. all but the highly populated main two) have small populations, relatively few tourists, a laid back lifestyle and an infrastructure which fits but that infrastructure only gets about 8000 tourists friendly and helpful, at the Andros Yacht can creak if pushed a year, most for the world Club they hunted down a computer guy, human participants I talked to really too far. Life here class bone fishing. These small a friend of a friend sort of contact to try enjoyed the experience, and one who doesn’t always numbers mean a choice of putting it right. Sadly that was to no avail, had done this at another location said depend on the clock, accommodation is limited the sickness continued, but Small Hope this one was far better as it offered more nor on your wallet, just but there are a number and Stuart Cove’s all helped out with freedom of interaction both for her and sometimes, and you of small hotels, some very access to their computers, till after 2:30 the dolphin. need to learn which reasonably priced, but not in the morning on one occasion. It’s the applies to a situation. necessarily in easy reach of sort of friendly helpfulness which seems endemic in the Bahamas, but you need to play your longer than the surface interval. part with I ended up using the local store flexibility. to buy quick soup packs, at 20 cents, to heat in my room’s So little coffee maker to save time and time money. Lunch was thought of Limited time as a relaxed laid back time to is always contemplate life not a fast, quick a problem snack in a busy schedule. for divers. At Small Hope Bay the package On Grand is an all inclusive one including Bahama food and drinks (out of busy and Nassau/ hours you are welcome to be Paradise your own bar tender, without a Island the tab!) which gave an incredibly shopping friendly, sociable and relaxed experience ambience, but cost was more Small Hope which is now the only diving is present to explore / exploit, sadly I than at the Andros Lighthouse establishment. didn’t. Ideally for this your own transport Yacht Club & Marina so I stayed With digital cameras a computer is would be useful. On Paradise Island I 3 nights at Small Hope and two essential, mine went sick, really sick. I never really got beyond the Nassau at the Yacht Club. Andros Island found the Bahamians and other locals Beach Hotel except on Stuart Cove’s Swimming with the dolphins can be hard work keeping up as not holding just gentle contact 63 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Diver (left) signals OK in the Great Blue Hole; The wreck travel of the Marion (below) Bahamas oriented shopping, through the car window, entertainment; hotel the horse riders along region adjacent to a beach and in the the capital city of sea, the mounds of Freeport. It does conch shells by market have a moderate stalls, and other near amount going on even empty beaches. These attracting in locals explorations did take from other regions, me east to The Lucayan but it can be worth National Park, a 30 exploring further afield. minute drive on empty I did some exploration but good roads to one of Grand Bahama of the few protected which is a nearly flat zones. Here a boardwalk island intersected with trail through mangroves many purpose built meanders to an canals allowing the absolutely stunning white many prestigious houses sand beach deserving to moor their boats more leisure time than I adjacent. These canals could give it. plus the mangroves The Family Islands offer excellent breeding generally offer less for the Shallow reefs with the deep blue of the Tongue of the Ocean as seen flying between Grand Bahama and Nassau grounds for marine shopaholic but I found they life. I was able to have can be great for the eco-tourism, local seems the most appropriate, you know an activity. Did research on marine a quick tour driving crafts and customs and I understand it fits. People come in too many shapes invertebrates going on to do PhD in around areas in and also for fishing, sailing, general water and sizes for any hire shop to always have Zoology emphasizing neurophysiology outlying Freeport; sports and simple relaxation on good a wetsuit that’s right. and electronmicroscopy. Rediscovered seeing the banking beaches. With Hawk’s Nest I wandered Yes, the Bahamas are tourist centric diving about 10 years ago when heard and business district up the local estuary exploring mangroves for a visitor and it does take a little effort prescription masks were available. Did in a flat bottom boat, and I met to move beyond that but they do offer CMAS, then PADI, BSAC and TDI training local basket makers on a car drive some really good diving and more than before adding . both on Cat and Andros while on enough to keep non-divers happily Now publishes frequently in the UK pickup bus. The hotel is in a complex of Andros a visit to the batik factory, occupied. At least at some places, such Sport Diver and other UK diving and interrelated hotels (OK, it was, as now which supplies most of the other as Small Hope, families can be catered more general magazines. Became the being demolished for a larger more islands with printed materials, was for with child care provisions. So just a bit environmental correspondent for the upmarket one), a casino and a couple a walk down the road from the of added effort and more time a great BSAC Travel Club a few years ago. of restaurants isolated from anything else Yacht Club. deal extra could be done or maybe just within walking distance. No feel at all of Diving is well catered for, but I learn to relax, lay back and the Bahamas Great Barracuda the Bahamas will be obtained with this still took my own kit. The internal can be a great place to unwind. I must isolation. Previously I have stayed at the flights don’t have big baggage give that a try sometime. ■ Orange Hill Beach Inn, also isolated. This allowances nor offer extra for isolation seems part of a modern day divers but flights are short so the Interested in marine way to contain tourists and can be great extra charges are not completely life since childhood if it’s what you want otherwise transport prohibitive just annoying. I have in California, becomes essential as there can be so looked at dive operations on 5 of Charles Stirling much to experience. the islands and all offered up to tried scuba On Grand Bahama UNEXSO are date, good kit for hire but official in University located in the Port Lucaya area regulations are limited so check but the need and I stayed in both the Pelican Bay what you are hiring. The one item for glasses and adjacent Sheraton Our Lucaya I would always recommend taking and at the time Hotels. Port Lucaya is a relatively on any trip is your own exposure lack of knowledge about newly developed rather tourist suit, in this case a 5 mm wetsuit prescription masks stopped this as

64 X-RAY MAG : 44 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED