Heritage tourism in soutHeast asia Prelims_Heritage.indd 1 09/06/2010 14:32 related titles from nias Press The Sociology of Southeast Asia. Transformations in a Developing Region by Victor T. King Tourism in Southeast Asia. Challenges and New Directions edited by Michael Hitchcock, Victor T. King & Michael Parnwell NIAS Press is the autonomous publishing arm of NIAS – Nordic Institute of Asian Studies, a research institute located at the University of Copenhagen. NIAS is partially funded by the governments of Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden via the Nordic Council of Ministers, and works to encour- age and support Asian studies in the Nordic countries. In so doing, NIAS has been publishing books since 1969, with more than two hundred titles produced in the past few years. CoPeNhAgeN University Nordic Council of Ministers Prelims_Heritage.indd 2 09/06/2010 14:32 Heritage tourism in soutHeast asia edited by michael Hitchcock, Victor t. King and michael Parnwell Prelims_Heritage.indd 3 09/06/2010 14:32 Heritage Tourism in Southeast Asia edited by Michael hitchcock, victor T. King and Michael Parnwell First published in 2010 by NIAS Press NIAS – Nordic Institute of Asian Studies Leifsgade 33, DK-2300 Copenhagen S, Denmark tel (+45) 3532 9501 • fax (+45) 3532 9549 email: [email protected] • website: www.niaspress.dk Simultaneously published in the United States by the University of hawai‘i Press © NIAS – Nordic Institute of Asian Studies 2010 While copyright in the volume as a whole is vested in the Nordic Institute of Asian Studies, copyright in the individual chapters belongs to their authors. No chapter may be repro- duced in whole or in part without the express permission of the publisher. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data heritage tourism in Southeast Asia. 1. heritage tourism—Southeast Asia. I. hitchcock, Michael. II. King, victor T. III. Parnwell, Mike. 338.4’79159-dc22 ISBN: 978-87-7694-059-1 hbk ISBN: 978-87-7694-060-7 Pbk Typeset by NIAS Press Printed in Singapore by Mainland Press Pte Ltd Prelims_Heritage.indd 4 09/06/2010 14:32 Contents Preface and Acknowledgements • vii Contributors • xi Chapter 1: heritage Tourism in Southeast Asia • 1 Michael Hitchcock, Victor T. King and Michael J. G. Parnwell Chapter 2: Courting and Consorting with the global: the Local Politics of an emerging World heritage Site in Sulawesi, Indonesia • 28 Kathleen M. Adams Chapter 3: The Reconstruction of Atayal Identity in Wulai, Taiwan • 49 Mami Yoshimura and Geoffrey Wall Chapter 4: outdoor ethnographic Museums, Tourism and Nation Building in Southeast Asia • 72 Michael Hitchcock and Nick Stanley Chapter 5: histories, Tourism and Museums: Re-making Singapore • 83 Can-Seng Ooi Chapter 6: World heritage Sites in Southeast Asia: Angkor and Beyond • 103 Keiko Miura Chapter 7: National Identity and heritage Tourism in Melaka • 130 Nigel Worden Chapter 8: Interpreters of Space, Place and Cultural Practice: Processes of Change through Tourism, Conservation, and Development in george Town, Penang, Malaysia • 147 Gwynn Jenkins Chapter 9: Aspiring to the ‘Tourist gaze’: Selling the Past, Longing for the Future at the World heritage Site of hue, vietnam • 173 Mark Johnson Chapter 10: vietnam’s heritage Attractions in Transition • 202 Wantanee Suntikul, Richard Butler and David Airey v Prelims_Heritage.indd 5 09/06/2010 14:32 Heritage Tourism in Southeast Asia Chapter 11: handicraft heritage and Development in hai Duong, vietnam • 221 Michael Hitchcock, Nguyen Thi Thu Huong and Simone Wesner Chapter 12: Tourism and Natural heritage Management in vietnam and Thailand • 236 Michael J. G. Parnwell Chapter 13: heritage Futures • 264 Michael Hitchcock, Victor T. King and Michael J. G. Parnwell Bibliography • 274 Index • 309 Figures 3.1: Map of Taiwan showing location of Wulai • 50 3.2: Diagram to represent shifts in multiple identities • 55 3.3: Determinants of the nature of the Atayal’s multiple identities: before 1895 • 58 3.4: An Atayal woman with facial tattoo • 59 3.5: Shifts in the Atayal’s multiple identities: after Japanese colonization, 1895–1945 • 61 3.6: Shifts in the Atayal’s multiple identities: after tourism development, 1945–1990 • 64 3.7: Shifts in the Atayal’s multiple identities: after the rise of democracy in Taiwan and the decline in international tourism in Wulai, 1990 to the present • 68 3.8: Atayal women and a han Chinese man with facial tattoo stickers • 69 8.1: Map of george Town • 151 12.1: Typical ha Long Bay landscape • 242 12.2: ha Long Bay, vietnam • 243 12.3: Phang Nga Bay, Thailand • 252 Tables 1.1: UNeSCo world cultural and natural heritage sites in Southeast Asia • 8 5.1: The orient responds through the national museums of Singapore: de-orientalism, re-orientalism and reverse orientalism • 100 8.1: Market mix of tourist arrivals, Penang: January–September 2004 and January–September 2005 • 157 vi Prelims_Heritage.indd 6 09/06/2010 14:32 Preface and acknowledgements The lengthy lead in time of this volume on heritage tourism in Southeast Asia requires a word of explanation. Several of the chapters that comprise this collection were originally scheduled to be part of our edited volume, Tourism in Southeast Asia: Challenges and New Directions (NIAS and University of hawai‘i Press, 2009), but the manuscript ended up being unwieldy and the publishers asked us to prune it. It was a dilemma that had a happy outcome since the publishers agreed to consider a second volume based around the four chapters on heritage tourism in the original manuscript. These chapters were sufficiently interconnected and coherent that they could be lifted out to form the core of a second volume, to which new papers were added. The first volume could then be published with much less difficulty. In this regard we are endlessly grateful to those who agreed to accept a delay in the publication of their papers until we could assemble a companion volume and who permitted us, at relatively short notice, to transfer their work to the heritage tourism book. We have to bear in mind that we began the whole process of assembling and editing the long-awaited sequel to our Tourism in South-East Asia (1993) as long ago as 2005; the delay in publishing the four heritage papers has therefore been considerable. our sincere thanks must therefore go to gywnn Jenkins, Mark Johnson, Keiko Miura and Nick Stanley for being so cooperative in allowing us to address our dilemma and in helping us embark on what we believed to be the most constructive way forward. having said this, and in duly recognizing the obvious delay in publication, the heritage volume is not without a certain rationale and in the event, in our view, the enterprise has proved to have turned out very successfully indeed. vii Prelims_Heritage.indd 7 09/06/2010 14:32 Heritage Tourism in Southeast Asia Two of the co-editors (hitchcock and King) had already edited a special issue of the journal Indonesia and the Malay World (IMW) (2003a) on the theme of what we, and Ian glover, referred to then as ‘discourses with the past’, and it seemed to us that we could develop several of the issues which had already been raised and debated in that publication. We therefore had the basis for a much more extended and detailed consideration of the political, economic and socio-cultural contexts within which heritage and the tourism activities associated with it have been developing in the region. More especially what had become very clear to all three co-editors in preparing the first volume was that we needed to devote much more attention to the significance for Southeast Asian governments of UNeSCo World heritage Sites (WhS) and the conflicting pressures, interests and agendas which were being brought to bear on these sites, as well as on the ways in which heritage, whether recognized by UNeSCo or not, was becoming a very central element in the promotion of tourism in the region and in the construction and transformation of identities (national, ethnic and local). Three of the four papers which we transferred to the heritage volume focused on globally significant UNeSCo sites: Johnson on hue, Miura on Angkor and Jenkins on the recently designated historic centre of george Town on Pulau Pinang (which along with Melaka was designated as Malaysia’s third WhS in 2008). Incidentally gwynn Jenkins had also contributed a co-authored paper on george Town to our special journal issue of 2003. our earlier foray into heritage studies in Southeast Asia has also enabled us to develop a network of researchers, some of whom we could call on at short notice to provide chapters for our new volume. We therefore commissioned and edited several new papers for this second book in addition to writing an extended editorial introduction and an accompanying conclusion, a process which has taken us well over two years to complete. Two of the co-editors stepped in to write chapters afresh in Heritage Tourism: Mike Parnwell has contributed a chapter on natural heritage sites by comparing the WhS of ha Long Bay in northern vietnam with a similar but non- designated site, Phang Nga Bay, in southern Thailand, and Mike hitchcock along with fellow researchers Nguyen Thi Thu huong and Simone Wesner, who had worked with him on a field project in northern vietnam, have given an overview and analysis of some of their fieldwork findings on handicraft industries and tourism in hai Duong. Some colleagues who had contributed to our 2003 special issue also came forward with chapters for viii Prelims_Heritage.indd 8 09/06/2010 14:32 Preface and Acknowledgements this current book: Nigel Worden kindly agreed that we could include his previously published paper on the theme of heritage tourism in Melaka and Malay-Malaysian national identity (with some revisions and updating by victor King); Can-Seng ooi who has been working on the role and use of museums in the construction and reconstruction of Singaporean national identity stepped in at very short notice; and Kathleen Adams has provided us with a substantially revised and updated chapter, based on her 2003 publication, on the local political issues surrounding moves to secure UNeSCo World heritage listing for the Toraja hamlet of Ke´te´ Kesu´ and the wider Torajaland.