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February 2018 SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY
AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE Adjusting Cuckoo Clock Music Boxes Controlling Dust in the Workshop Book Review: 100+ No BS Watch Tips UPGRADE YOUR WITSCHI EQUIPMENT Trade-in an ALC2000 and receive a $400 discount on a Proofmaster.
TS-PROOFMASTER-S Seven preset programs and 10 custom programs available. Dry waterproof testing up to 10 BAR. TS-PROOFMASTER-M Nine preset programs and 45 custom programs available. Fully automated dome opening and closing. Touch screen. 10 BAR. AC6414 Silent Werther compressor includes a 5 micron filter in addition to a 1/100 micron filter. 12 BAR pressure. CSA certified. Sold separately.
JULES BOREL & CO. 1110 Grand Boulevard – Kansas City, Missouri 64106 Phone 800-776-6858 – Fax 800-776-6862 – julesborel.com
HT Ad 2-2018.indd 1 12/27/2017 9:58:42 AM UPGRADE YOUR WITSCHI EQUIPMENT Trade-in an ALC2000 and receive a $400 discount on a Proofmaster. IN THIS VOLUME 42, NUMBERissue 2, February 2018
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February 2018 President’s Message Cas-Ker Has a New Tool & SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY By Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC Supply Catalog and Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute page 5 Updated Website EXECUTIVE & EDITORIAL OFFICES By Donna Hardy American Watchmakers- Executive Director’s Message page 25 Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) By Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 701 Enterprise Drive page 5 In Summary Harrison, OH 45030 By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE Adjusting Cuckoo Clock Music Boxes Affiliate Chapter Highlights page 26 Controlling Dust in the Workshop or 513-367-9800 By Edwin M. Hydeman Book review: 100+ No BS Watch Tips Fax 513-367-1414 page 34 [email protected] • www.awci.com www.facebook.com/MyAWCI Education & Cover Image: Henry B. Fried Scholarship A combination portable sundial and Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 By Donna Hardy Certification instrument for calibrating sundials Executive Director ca. 1690–1710. Made in France of brass Ext. 310 [email protected] page 37 AWCI Educational Calendar page 6 and silver, this sundial is on display Donna Hardy Memoriam at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in Managing Editor New York City. Ext. 305 [email protected] Hans Weber Education & Standards Committee page 39 The Standards and Practices Kathy Ortt page 8 Editor [email protected] Affiliate Chapter News page 40 Janette Torres-Gomez A side view of the sundial. Graphic Designer & Book Review Assistant Technical Support Photos Courtesy of The Metropolitan 100+ No BS Watch Tips: Museum of Art. Ext. 302 [email protected] Technical Discussions For Watch Enthusiasts & Tom Schomaker, CMW21 Watchmaking Instructor Adjusting Side-Mounted Salespeople Ext. 309 [email protected] By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 Classifieds Music Boxes in Cuckoo page 28 Mike Carpenter, CC Clocks Buy, Sell, Trade, and Clock Director By Paul Corn Employment Opportunities [email protected] page 15 page 44 Rob McLeod Columns Education & Certification Coordinator Restoration Tip: Looking at Options: Ext. 303 [email protected] Hand Pipe (Tube) Making Business and Workshop AWCI Directory Maureen Seals By Henrik Korpela Practices Survey Membership Coordinator & page 22 By Hannah Mancill Advertisers’ Index Technical Support page 46 Ext. 301 [email protected] page 10 HOROLOGICAL TIMES Industry Advisory Board ADVISORY COMMITTEE From the Workshop Bob Little, CC, CW, Chair By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI Members Daniel Benson, CMW page 30 page 46 Paul Corn Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 David Fahrenholz Dale LaDue, CMW21 OUR VISION: Hannah Mancill AWCI’s vision is to have an educated and passionate horological TS-PROOFMASTER-S Seven preset programs and 10 custom programs available. Dry waterproof testing up to 10 BAR. Matt Schloemer, CW21 Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written community practicing the highest standards and with the resources TS-PROOFMASTER-M Nine preset programs and 45 custom programs available. Fully automated dome opening and closing. Touch screen. 10 BAR. permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers to provide quality goods and services. AC6414 Silent Werther compressor includes a 5 micron filter in addition to a 1/100 micron filter. 12 BAR pressure. CSA certified. Sold separately. Institute. Copyright © 2018 by the American Watchmakers- Clockmakers Institute. OUR MISSION: Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly Setting service standards and educating the horological community. and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers-clockmakers JULES BOREL & CO. Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. Subscription price for the public is $175.00 per year Like us on Facebook! Follow us on Twitter! Follow us on Instagram! 1110 Grand Boulevard – Kansas City, Missouri 64106 ($15.00 per copy). Members subscription is $99.00 which www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes www.twitter.com/AWCInstitute www.instagram.com/americanwatchmakers Phone 800-776-6858 – Fax 800-776-6862 – julesborel.com is included with annual dues of $175.00. Periodicals post- age paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and additional entries. Like us on Facebook! Check out our educational videos! POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Horological Times, 3 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030. www.facebook.com/MyAWCI www.youtube.com/awci/videos
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Show off Your Passion for Horology-and AWCI! Wear These with Pride! SHOP NOW www.awci.com/online-store while supplies last! Horology T-Shirt Become a member and save! Cotton/Polyester Blend AWCI Shoulder Bag Available in S, M, L, XL Regular $30 $25.00 – members get free shipping awci.com Members $27 The AWCI shoulder bag is the perfect companion to keep everything organized, secured, and readily accessible when away from the shop. Constructed with 600 denier polyester fabric for long-term durability, there is a roomy main compartment with pockets Patches and storage slots for electronic devices, Sew on your apron or lab coat pens/pencils, small tools, business cards, and $5.00 – Members Only supplies. Handy outside storage pockets can carry larger items. A key clip, durable snap buckles, and a removable shoulder strap add additional versatility. The AWCI logo is embroidered directly onto the Rocker $2.00 – Certified Members Only main flap, so it will remain visible for many, many years without peeling or chipping away. Membership Pin Check out our website $12.95 for these and other great items! If you need assistance, contact AWCI at 513-367-9800. a message from the a message from the president executive director JOSEPH L. CERULLO, CMW, CMC JORDAN P. FICKLIN, CW21
et’s talk about our mission state- The Treasures of AWCI L ment and our vision. It has The theme of our 2017 conven- always been our practice to pro- tion was “Unlock the treasures vide education and certification to of AWCI.” You might wonder our membership. That is why it has what we meant by that. Well, always been crucial to have the some of the most valuable
Joseph L. Cerullo watch manufactures working with Jordan P. Ficklin things AWCI has to offer can [email protected] us. Their cooperation is vital for the [email protected] be found at our convention. independent watchmaker to survive. Specifically, our conventions provide exceptional net- When Bulova introduced the Accutron watch, they working and educational opportunities. knew that they would have to step up and do their part in This month I have been digging through other educating the independent repair person, just as Hamilton kinds of treasures at AWCI. Our library and museum had done a few years earlier with the first electric watch. have some very interesting items. Do you know who However, they knew there was no way they could do this by Theodore Gribi was? themselves. So, they reached out to their local and nation- Theodore Gribi was the first president of the al watchmaker associations to provide the proper train- American Horological Society, which was founded in ing and technical information. The manufactures also Chicago in 1892. He is also the author of A Practical provided the tools and spare parts to the trade. Their of- Course in Adjusting. However, I have unearthed more ficial jewelers received the first access to these critical tools interesting information about him. He moved to the US and parts. Then, when the quartz watch was introduced to from Europe in 1858 and founded his own horological the world, companies such as Seiko and Citizen joined with business. He returned to Europe after just eight years, Bulova to continue to support their products to indepen- but in 1876 he attended the Centennial Exhibition as dent repair people. Watchmakers who did not participate in an envoy from the Swiss government and received a the local trade associations started to be left out. This was a medal from the US government. He then remained in motivation to promote membership in the state and national the United States for the rest of his life. He worked for level. Soon bench courses were becoming available through the Elgin National Watch Company and the Waltham AWCI with the help of the watch companies. They provid- Watch Company, although he eventually settled in ed some of our key members with the training and mate- Chicago where he ran his own business. rial needed for us to take these bench courses across the Among the many items in our collection are some country. Members like Jim Broughton, Robert Bishop, and of the personal effects of Theodore Gribi, including a I started teaching classes for Seiko, Citizen, and Bulova. I’m portrait, personal letters, documents, and the medal he sure everyone remembers names like Henry Frystak, Don received at the Centennial Exhibition. You can learn DeWolf, Ben Matz, and Larry Blanchard, who taught a more about Theodore Gribi in the May 1978 Horological class at our last annual convention. During this time, all the Times or by visiting our library and museum.
continued on page 43 continued on page 43
Horological Times 5 educational calendar
Prices reflect member’s discount! Contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests. Plan Ahead! Sign Up Now for Classes! Reserve your spot today. Contact Rob McLeod at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303. Build on what you know in this course by investigating the verification and WATCH 230: $1,095 analysis of the escapement function, poising (static and dynamic), truing, February Balance Staffing & Timing timing adjustment in a mechanical watch, cutting out a balance staff on Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 a lathe, adjusting the balance staff, and removing the balance staff from 12-16 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio Glucydur balances with the Horia tool.
WATCH 210: $1,095 Expand what you know to increase your profit! Quartz watches can February Quartz & Quartz Chronograph be one of the most profitable sectors of your business. This course Service Procedures & Diagnostics reviews quartz watch repair and quartz chronographs, including the Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 various important electronic tests, giving you the skills you need to 19-23 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio be faster and more consistent at servicing quartz watches.
WATCH 220: $1,095 March Modern Mechanical Chronograph— Brush up on your chronograph skills before taking the CW21 Exam with this ETA 7750 class on the modern mechanical chronograph. It focuses on the service and Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 adjustment of modern mechanical chronographs, such as the ETA 7750. 5-9 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio
This class is perfect for anyone thinking about entering the profession of WATCH 100: $595 watchmaking or the individual who wants to gain a better appreciation of the March Introduction to Watchmaking art of watchmaking. Learn basic skills and techniques used by the modern Instructor: Aaron Recksiek, CW21 watchmaker. Before attending, students are recommended to study Theory of 16-18 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio Horology and be familiar with the basic nomenclature of watchmaking.
WATCH 240: $1,095 This intense 5-day course will help you refine your escapement adjusting April Servicing the Lever Escapement skills. The course covers all of the adjustments for the Swiss lever escape- Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 ment, hairspring, and balance. Also covered is the ETAchron system. 2-6 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio
WATCH 375: 2 CEUs $595 Learn the standard operating procedures (SOP) for disassembly, service, and April Separate Function Case Course for re-assembly of Rolex watches, featuring the separation of functions bezel Rolex Watches including water testing. You will gain hands-on training with the proper Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 tools and with multiple case designs. 18-19 New York, New York
Get certified today. The CW21 Exam is a 3-day examination covering topics in $2,495 April the AWCI Standards & Practices. If you are interested in becoming a Certified CW21 Exam Watchmaker for the 21st Century please contact Rob McLeod, AWCI’s Educa- AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio tion Coordinator for possible availability 866-367-2924, ext. 303. An exam 23-25 application and a notarized affidavit is required at time of registration.
Prices Vary April Only available to past examinees needing to take just a portion of the CW21 Retakes CW21 Exam. For additional information, contact Rob McLeod, AWCI’s 26-27 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio Education Coordinator, 866-367-2924, ext. 303.
WATCH 175: 5 CEUs $1,350 Today’s luxury watch consumer demands perfection. This course is April 30- Case & Bracelet Refinishing (Includes polishing kit) perfect for the watchmaker or dedicated refinisher. It will help you Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 achieve the different finishes on modern watch cases. Also covered is May 4 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio disassembly and assembly of common watch cases.
6 February 2018 WATCH 375: 2 CEUs $595 Learn the standard operating procedures (SOP) for disassembly, service, and May Separate Function Case Course for re-assembly of Rolex watches, featuring the separation of functions bezel Rolex Watches including water testing. You will gain hands-on training with the proper Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 tools and with multiple case designs. 7-8 Minnesota, TBD
WATCH 300: 5 CEUs $1095 This course includes the complete servicing of a caliber 3035 timepiece June Advanced 21–Rolex 3035 from de-casing through quality control; including identifying counterfeits, Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 pre-cleaning, service, regulating system, automatic system, calendar system, 18-22 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio polishing, casing requirements, water testing, and more advanced concepts.
$2,495 Get certified today. The CW21 Exam is a 3-day examination covering topics in July the AWCI Standards & Practices. If you are interested in becoming a Certified CW21 Exam Watchmaker for the 21st Century please contact Rob McLeod, AWCI’s Educa- AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio tion Coordinator for possible availability 866-367-2924, ext. 303. An exam 9-11 application and a notarized affidavit is required at time of registration.
Prices Vary July Only available to past examinees needing to take just a portion of the CW21 Retakes CW21 Exam. For additional information, contact Rob McLeod, AWCI’s 12-13 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio Education Coordinator, 866-367-2924, ext. 303.
This class is perfect for anyone thinking about entering the profession of WATCH 100: $595 watchmaking or the individual who wants to gain a better appreciation of the July Introduction to Watchmaking art of watchmaking. Learn basic skills and techniques used by the modern Instructor: Aaron Recksiek, CW21 watchmaker. Before attending, students are recommended to study Theory of 16-18 York, Pennsylvania Horology and be familiar with the basic nomenclature of watchmaking.
WATCH 475: 5 CEUs $1095 July 30- Restoration & Construction Learn the techniques involved in vintage restoration and the con- Techniques struction of “kit” watches used by high-end manufacturers. Instructor: Henrik Korpela Aug 3 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio
WATCH 190: $1,095 Evaluate your skill set in this course by exploring the fundamentals of August 21st Century Watchmaking Standards modern mechanical watch repair, including cleanliness, lubrication, endshake Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 adjustment, and may include the verification and analysis of escapement 6-10 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio function.
WATCH 220: $1,095 August Modern Mechanical Chronograph— Brush up on your chronograph skills before taking the CW21 Exam with this ETA 7750 class on the modern mechanical chronograph. It focuses on the service and Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 adjustment of modern mechanical chronographs, such as the ETA 7750. 20-24 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio
WATCH 210: $1,095 Expand what you know to increase your profit! Quartz watches can be one September Quartz & Quartz Chronograph of the most profitable sectors of your business. This course reviews quartz Service Procedures & Diagnostics watch repair and quartz chronographs, including the various important elec- Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 tronic tests, giving you the skills you need to be faster and more consistent at 17-21 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio servicing quartz watches.
Become the go-to watchmaker for modern automatics in your area by WATCH 200: $1,095 learning the fundamentals of mechanical automatic watch repair that are November Modern Automatic Wristwatches most prevalent in today’s market. In this class you’ll investigate how to Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 perform the various components: cleaning, assembling, adjustments, dialing, 5-9 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio and casing.
For additional details about specific courses in comprehensive syllabi form, including complete tool lists, visit: www.awci.com/classes or contact Rob McLeod, Education & Certification Coordinator, at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), x303. For additional calendar events visit: www.awci.com/calendar.
Horological Times 7 Education & Certification: Education & Standards Committee: The Standards & Practices
Education & Standards Committee: The Standards & Practices
he Standards & Practices docu- require us to service them in addition to ing basic components and able to modi- Tments set AWCI apart from other sometimes needing to replace parts has fy replacement parts in order to fit them horological associations. In the Acknowl- drastically changed the day-to-day duties properly into a movement or watch.” edgements it reads, “This document of the modern watchmaker. I believe, for The detractors also have a point: The stands for the quality that is the hallmark watchmakers and clockmakers alike, our Standards & Practices document says, of our organization.” It is a solidified professions are at a turning point. “The 21st Century Certified watchmak- set of standards expected of the bench Here is one example of the changes er, in the performance of his/her horo- practitioner. There are two sets of docu- we are evaluating. In the current CW21 logical skills and knowledge, must meet ments: one for watchmakers and one for Exam, there has been significant devel- or exceed all industry requirements for clockmakers. One of the key goals of the opment in the micromechanical portion repair and parts replacement.” AWCI Education & Standards Committee is to of the exam. The current version of the should never expect a watchmaker to revise the Standards & Practices. CW21 Exam requires the candidates perform an operation on a watch that is The Standards & Practices is a com- to disassemble a standard balance with outside of what the manufacturer’s pro- plex governing document of the institute Greiner collet and remove a staff from cedures are for that particular caliber. that not only spells out the requirements the balance wheel using a lathe, and they There are many areas of the Stan- of what it takes to be considered a cer- must ultimately replace the staff and dards & Practices documents where dif- tified watchmaker or clockmaker, but it poise the wheel. The Standards & Prac- ferent interpretations can be made for the also acts as a governing document for tices document clearly states that “the same standard. That is why a thorough the structure, roles, and responsibilities CW21 is skilled in the operation and revision must be made—not only to con- of the Board of Examiners. Article IV of use of the lathe,” and “they are able to sider changes in the evolving job of the the AWCI Bylaws states, “The Education demonstrate the ability to restore/repair modern watchmaker, but also to clear up & Standards Committee in cooperation or replace staffs and jewels/bearings as areas that could be misinterpreted outside with the exam administrators, assessors, needed.” These are two proficiency sub- of the original intent of the documents. and Board of Examiners recommend points out of a total of 153 sub-points The Education & Standards Com- changes to certification by updating the listed under the requirements of a CW21 mittee is seeking feedback on necessary Standards & Practices documents.” So, watchmaker, but these two points have changes from all AWCI members, espe- when a fundamental change to the CW21 caused the certification a significant cially from those who are CW21 certified. Exam or CC21 Exam is needed, recom- number of challenges over the last sever- An email survey will be sent out to mem- mendations to change the Standards & al years. Since it is impractical to test on bership in the next few weeks. I encour- Practices documents must be made by the all 153 sub-points, the Board of Exam- age you to respond to the survey, as it is Education & Standards Committee to the iners has chosen these two because they critical to get your feedback. The Stan- Board of Directors for final approval. feel it is important to test specifically for dards & Practices belong to the members It also says in the Acknowledge- these proficiencies. of this organization, and the CW21 and ments, “As the craft and the organiza- Currently, we require candidates to CC21 certifications belong to the mem- tion evolve, so will this document.” The change the staff on a 6497 movement bers who have achieved that designation. craft and organization have certainly with a laser-welded hairspring to collet. If you have any immediate feedback, evolved. AWCI has significantly fewer The manufacturer’s requirement for this please email the Education & Standards members than it did when the document watch is to change the entire balance. Committee at [email protected]. was first written, and there are fewer So, essentially, we are requiring the can- Thank you! professionals practicing today. Many didates to perform an operation outside new professionals entering the industry of the manufacturer’s recommendations. Aaron Recksiek, CW21, Chair are entering the service centers and be- We do this because we cannot get a re- Education & Standards Committee ing trained on a specific product or spe- liable stream of material to test balance cifics tasks. This has reduced the num- staffing on a watch where the manu- ber of independent watchmakers, who facturer does recommend replacing the form the core of those seeking CW21 staff. The proponents have a point: The Aaron Recksiek is an independent watchmaker in Salt Lake City, certification. The way watches are made Standards & Practices document says, Utah. He is a graduate of the 2008 WOSTEP class at the Lititz today and the way the manufacturers “He/she [the CW21] is capable of mak- Watch Technicum.
8 February 2018 After taking the classes ‘21st Century Watchmaking “Standards’ and ‘Modern Mechanical Chronograph—ETA7750,’ I gained a great deal of knowledge as well as respect for the art of what we call watchmaking. Tom is an amazing instructor who is full of knowledge. I only wish I had more time to spend at AWCI because there truly is a limitless amount of knowledge to be found within the walls of AWCI. ~Sarkis Semerdjian ” TIME IS MONEY Increase the quality and quantity of your work and become more profitable with classes from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. We offer refresher and advanced courses designed to help you sharpen your skill set and stay current with the latest service techniques.
ARE YOU CERTIFIED? Invest in yourself by taking your skills to the next level, and becoming a Certified Watchmaker of the 21st Century (CW21). Becoming certified demonstrates your high level of expertise to your customers, elevates your store above the competition, and enhances the brands you carry. Start the process today by registering for our 21st Century Standards Course. Not sure which course to sign up for? Log onto our website and fill out our experience questionnaire or contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests.
Call or email our Education & Certification Coordinator today for more information: [email protected] or call 1-866-367-2924, ext 303 Column: Looking at Options: Business and Workshop Practices Survey Looking at Options: Business and Workshop Practices Survey Preparing for Success Part 1: Dust Control
By Hannah Mancill
an ideal horological universe, no dust Dust Control In would exist. Our bench lamps would be Dust can be the bane of our existence as horologists, bright enough without being too bright. Our chairs hindering the distribution of energy throughout the would be both ergonomic and comfortable. Our timepiece, if not stopping it all together (depending acoustic atmosphere would be pleasant and not dis- on the size of the timepiece and the size and tracting. Indeed, these four would be perfectly suited composition of the offending particles) should it to maximize productivity and enjoyment of our work. venture into a movement. Although one possible Though such a universe does not exist, solutions to solution is to funnel resources into the development the problems of dust, inadequate visibility, discom- of a hyper-clean workshop like the cleanrooms used fort, and poor concentration do. for manufacturing semiconductors or processing Investing in these four areas is investing in the pharmaceuticals, not everyone has the time, money, success of your workshop. The importance is empha- or inclination to completely alter their workspace. sized in the opening pages of both George Daniels’s Besides, what level of cleanliness is adequate for Watchmaking and Donald de Carle’s Practical Watch a timepiece repair facility? Less invasive, more Repairing. Daniels writes, “A professional horologist economical solutions like selecting an effective will spend approximately one-third of his working cleaning solution/wiper combination will be the life in his workshop . . . . In order to ease the per- focus here. The number and kind of dust-reducing formance of this routine work it is essential that his techniques a workshop employs are up to the reader. surroundings are congenial and comfortable.” (p. 1) My goal is only to assemble a few avenues for readers Also, de Carle writes, “Banish damp, dirt, draughts, to explore. and distraction. Encourage comfort, warmth, qui- Truly controlling dust is more than just wiping et. Provide good light, good ventilation, good tools. down surfaces where dust has landed. It begins with And a liberal supply of materials. Good and profit- prevention. able work should result.” (p. 3) According to the Family Handyman magazine, We will eventually examine research on dust “more than half of household dust enters your control, lamp and chair selection, and how what home through windows, doors, vents, and on the we listen to (or don’t listen to) impacts produc- soles of your shoes. An EPA study of homes where tivity. This month, Part 1, will focus only on dust a doormat was added at the entrance and shoes were control. banned indoors showed a 60% reduction of lead As usual, results of the latest survey are scattered dust and other contaminants in the home.” So, keep throughout. There were 17 participants in this survey. windows and doors closed when possible. Seal gaps
10 February 2018 around windows and doors that allow dust to flow affordable than one might think, especially if factor- from the outside into the workshop. Even look for ing in the infrequency of unit replacement compared possible dust entrances around receptacle boxes and to a normal portable vacuum. water and air lines. Place coarse-fiber, heavy-duty Fiberglass filters can be replaced with HEPA doormats outside exterior doors. Finally, purchase filters to increase the effectiveness of a workshop’s dedicated, indoor-only workshop shoes for every forced-air heating and cooling system’s filtration. employee, and use sticky mats inside entrances. Air purifiers, also equipped with HEPA filters, can Change the mats daily or when visibly dirty. be placed in each room to help remove dust from Carpet and upholstery are both notorious for the air before it settles. Avoid purifiers that release holding dust. Padding underneath carpet also holds ozone, which can have negative health effects. dust, which is released into the air with each footstep. Keep the humidity between 40-50% to help lower Consider replacing carpeting with hard flooring like static electricity, which can cause dust to stick to sur- laminate, wood, or tile, and wet mop it regularly faces and make them harder to clean. Humidity levels with a microfiber cloth. If you prefer an upholstered can be monitored with an inexpensive hydrometer chair, look into leather upholstery, which is easy to from a gardening store. clean and won’t shed fibers. Watchmakers and clockmakers and other em- Avoid sweeping, as it stirs up dust rather than ployees working with timepieces can don a lab coat removing it. Similarly, the exhaust stream from vacu- to minimize dust, hair, and fibers on clothing from um cleaners can whip up a dust storm. If vacuuming, contaminating their work area. Note: Lab coats are leave the agitator brush off. For vacuums equipped ineffective unless buttoned. During long interrup- with a bag, exchange inexpensive two- or three-ply tions in the work cycle (while talking to a client, paper bags for high-quality cotton-lined bags. HEPA during lunch, or at the end of the day) cover move- bags are recommended for the highest level of dust ments to protect them from dust. Eliminating paper filtration. For bagless vacuums, regularly clean filters products and opening mail and other packages away and replace them every three months. Empty the from workbenches can also minimize dust accumu- canister frequently and always outside. Whether it’s lation. Lastly, walk slowly in the workshop to pre- bagged or bagless, maintain the vacuum and service vent dust clouds caused by rapid movements. it at manufacturer-recommended intervals. For an even more efficient vacuum system, con- Bench Cleaning Protocols sider installing a centralized vacuum system that vents When I attended watchmaking school, students exhaust to the outside. Centralized vacuum systems were expected to wipe their benches down with are designed to remove dust from a building, sending Windex Vinegar Multi-Surface Cleaner and a it through tubing in the walls to a bag or canister in Wypall brand wiper at the beginning and end of a remote utility space. With centralized vacuum sys- every day. Since graduation, I’ve moved to wiping tems, it is only necessary to carry a lightweight hose down my bench once a day with blue, glass-cleaning and brush. Bags and canisters are ready to be emptied Windex and a Scott brand Shop Towel (disposable, once every three months. These systems are readily blue paper towel). Neighboring watchmakers use available for new building construction and straight- a treated dusting cloth (treated with mineral oil) forward to retrofit. This kind of vacuum is more without cleaner, a prewetted alcohol wipe, or even
Horological Times 11 Column: Looking at Options: Business and Workshop Practices Survey
a Scott brand Shop Towel dipped into an alcohol When I asked one senior watchmaker how he bottle. While some clean their benches once a day, selected his cleaning solution, he explained that he others clean more often and some less frequently. looked for a solution that didn’t contain Butyl Cello- This disparity raised questions about bench solve or isopropanol, indicating both of these ingre- cleaning protocols, more specifically whether or dients gradually ruin the finish on wooden benches not tests had been done to determine efficacy of over time. Butyl Cellosolve (other synonyms include cleaning methods. I asked a few watchmakers, 2-butoxyethanol; butoxyethanol; ethanol, 2-butoxy; and no one seemed to have an answer. It appears ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether; ethylene glycol most have picked up cleaning methods (cleaning monobutyl ether; monobutyl ethylene glycol ether; solution/wiper combination and frequency) from n-Butoxyethanol), found in many cleaning solutions, other horologists or personal trial and error. is commonly found in floor strippers. Isopropanol According to the survey, (other synonyms include isopropyl alcohol 1-methy- • 41% of participants clean their benches multiple lethanol; 2-hydroxypropane; 2-propanol; 2-propyl al- times daily. cohol; dimethylcarbinol; isopropyl alcohol; isopropyl • 23.5% clean once daily. alcohol, rubbing) is also known to degrade finish. • 6% clean every other day. His solution is to use Windex Vinegar Multi-Sur- • 23.5% clean weekly. face Cleaner, but there are other cleaning solutions • 6% clean every other week. safe to use on wood. One horologist claims one of • 0% clean monthly the best and safest cleaners to use is orange oil, which will not strip the finish. Orange oil can also condition For other countertops, dry, unfinished benches. Contact bench manufac- 12% of respondents clean their countertops • turers for their cleaning solution recommendations. multiple times daily. Note: Though wood coated with polyurethane can 29% clean once daily. • withstand many cleaning solutions in moderation, 12% clean every other day. • older shellac finishes can be stripped quite easily 29% clean weekly. • without warning. Always test a new cleaner on a small 12% clean every other week. • portion of the bench in an inconspicuous area before 6% clean monthly. • cleaning the entire bench with it. A spot test should When asked which cleaning solutions participants pre- reveal whether the solution will have a detrimental fer for cleaning bench tops, respondents answered: effect on the finish. • 35% use Windex. (Unfortunately, the specific It is unclear to this author whether cleaning solu- kind of Windex—blue, glass-cleaning Windex tion manufacturers must be transparent regarding vs. Windex Vinegar Multi-Surface Cleaner—was Butyl Cellosolve in their ingredient list. SC Johnson’s not listed in the answer choice.) website contains a “What’s Inside” section with in- • 47% use alcohol. gredient lists for their products, including Windex, • 18% use an alternative product. One person Windex Vinegar Multi-Surface Cleaner, and Fantas- wrote they use Fantastik, another Glassex, and tik. None of these ingredient lists contain Butyl Cel- a third respondent uses a homemade solution of losolve, though a Google search of the blue Windex alcohol mixed with distilled water and ammonia. will return several websites that list Butoxyethanol
12 February 2018 among its ingredients. If you want to know whether by Wypall or Berkshire. Whichever cleaning solution/ the cleaning solution you use contains Butoxyetha- wiper combination your workshop uses, it is recom- nol, the Household Products Database provided by mended to wipe from cleanest areas to dirtiest areas. the U.S. Department of Health & Human Services When cleaning an entire room, clean from high- allows users to search ingredient names for products est to lowest areas. Start at the ceiling, move to that contain them: https://hpd.nlm.nih.gov/. You can the counters, and end with the floor. Many clean- search the solvent name in the “Quick Search” bar at room maintenance procedures call for cleaning the the top left of the web page. According to the data- ceiling and walls as well as counters and floors. base, blue Windex does contain Butoxyethanol. To do so, Berkshire, a manufacturer of clean-room If using a cleaning solution in spray form, spray supplies, recommends using a “flat surface mop” the wiper instead of the bench to ensure the solution with “pre-wetted mop covers.” Remember, dust also will work where intended rather than falling onto sur- settles on the top surfaces of lights and around vent rounding surfaces and causing accidental damage. openings. It is ill-advised to breathe in airborne mist or to use Though dust can be detrimental to our work, solutions near electrical appliances that are plugged there are certainly ways to minimize it. Ultimately, in. Be sure to read any safety precautions printed on controlling dust prepares our workspaces for opti- cleaning solution labels and safety data sheets (SDS), mum repair results. and keep the SDS handy for employees. In Part 2, we’ll look at how lighting, seating, and So, what about the wiper? Unfortunately, there what we listen to can also optimize repair results. was no specific question regarding products used for References: wiping in conjunction with the cleaners. Daniels, George. Watchmaking. Philip Wilson Publishers, 1981. A different senior watchmaker said that the wip- de Carle, Donald. Practical Watch Repairing. Skyhorse Publishing, 2008. www.whatsinsidescjohnson.com/us/en/brands/windex/windex-original-glass-cleaner ers and paper towels used to clean benches often shed www.whatsinsidescjohnson.com/us/en/brands/windex/windex-multi-surface-vinegar fibers, generating dust while the user attempts to re- www.whatsinsidescjohnson.com/us/en/brands/fantastik/fantastik-mini-concentrated-kitchen-cleaner www.hunker.com/12609808/rubbing-alcohol-damage-to-wood-furniture move it. His solution is to use a treated, disposable multi-clean.com/whats-in-my-floor-stripper dusting cloth (without a cleaning solution) or micro- https://hpd.nlm.nih.gov/ https://www.berkshire.com/learning-center/dyk_particles_on_surfaces_part_5/ fiber cloth (with a cleaning solution). Both shed fi- https://www.kcprofessional.com/brands/wypall bers less frequently than a regular paper towel. Cloths https://www.berkshire.com/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/cleaning/cleaning-tips-to-reduce-household-dust/view-all/ treated with oils or waxes can leave a residue behind. http://www.dustfree.com/support/iaq-info/house-dust Microfiber products attract and hold dust with an http://www.liberty-ind.com/pdf/maint_protocol_pdf.pdf https://home.howstuffworks.com/central-vacuum.htm electrostatic charge rather than pushing dust around https://builtinvacuum.com/whybiv.html like dry rags or feather dusters. Microfiber products can also be machine washed, saving the independent money over disposable wipers. Note: Bleach and fab- ric softener degrade fibers and reduce their ability to attract and hold dust. Another option is to use one of the many available Hannah Mancill is a graduate of the North American “lint-free” (in quotations because no wiper is 100% Institute of Swiss Watchmaking and a watchmaker at a free of lint), disposable products, such as those made service center in Texas.
Horological Times 13 Cas-Ker is your Horological Headquarters
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14 February 2018 Technical Discussion: Adjusting Side-Mounted Music Boxes in Cuckoo Clocks ADJUSTING SIDE-MOUNTED MUSIC BOXES IN CUCKOO CLOCKS By Paul Corn
Fig. 1
previous article, featured in the January Several different components or assemblies make My HT, covered how to adjust roof-mount- up a cuckoo clock. A basic cuckoo clock is a weight- ed music boxes in cuckoo clocks. This article will driven strike movement that lifts and drops two cover adjusting the music boxes that are mounted on bellows and a gong hammer. The movement shown the side of the case. I will also discuss water wheels is a Regula #25, 30-hour movement. Bird advance is and dancing platforms. A systematic approach to an added feature that is made up of only four parts. the overhaul/servicing and tweaking for the cuckoo Other features are music, dancers, water wheels, and clock in for repair will make the repair person’s life other things that move when the clock is striking or much easier. the music is playing. Each one of these features beyond Because there are no technical papers showing the basic movement can be dealt with individually. A how to disassemble, reassemble, and adjust mechani- step-by-step approach in working with one feature cal cuckoo clocks, this article is focused on filling that at a time to complete the repairs and adjustments is need. Treat this article as a technical paper for adjust- easier, rewarding, and less time consuming. The ments after the repairs are made. cuckoo clock that is shown is one that has the music box attached to the side of the case, Figure 1.
Horological Times 15 Technical Discussion: Adjusting Side-Mounted Music Boxes in Cuckoo Clocks
Disassembling the Components Fig. 3 Suggested tools: long needle-nose pliers, short nee- dle-nose pliers, end nippers, screwdrivers, tweezers, and slotted bending tools. (The latter are screwdrivers with their ends cut off and slots ground into the ends.) A piece of eight-day mainspring reworked and a 90° slotted tool are shown in Figure 2.
Fig. 2
the bellows glued in. To remove glued-in bellows, first drill and then place a screw and steady pin in the sides of the case where each of the bellows are. Then, re- move the two screws and place a piece of eight-day mainspring with its end rounded and ground on both sides of the rounded part between the case and the Remove the back door and set aside. If you are re- bellows whistle. moving the movement, bellows, and music box, place Tap the piece of eight-day mainspring with a small the clock on its back and open the bird door. Using a hammer to break the glue loose. Don’t use a screw- slotted tool or needle-nose pliers, open the bird-door driver to break the glued-in bellows loose, because the link to a 90° bend and remove the link from the door screwdriver will mar the case and the bellows whistle. staple, Figure 3. Remove the hands by using the short You don’t want to glue the bellows back in because needle-nose pliers to loosen the nut. There should they might have to be removed again, Figure 4.
be a nut, washer, minute-hand collet, minute hand, Fig. 4 and hour hand. The hour hand should be removed by twisting it at the center while pulling it off. Always work the hands from the center. Note: The older the clock the more brittle the hands will be. Turn the clock over and lay it face down to re- move the bellows. Each of the bellows is held in place with a screw and a steady pin. Remove the screws, place a screwdriver between the case and the bellows whistle and gently pry the whistle off the steady pin. Note: Some of the modern cuckoo clocks come with
16 February 2018 Hold the bellows’ top with a finger on the lifter wire removed during the cleaning process, and the music where it goes through the wire loop. Next, bring the will have an undesirable tinny-twangy sound. bellows out at an angle and unhook the bellows’ lift- Next, to make repairs on the movement, take ing wire from the lifter that is on the movement. Do the movement from the case by removing the four this with a downward motion until the lifter wire screws that hold the movement. comes free from the movement lifter. This way you don’t have to bend the lower end of the lifter wire to Adjusting the Music Box Locking Lever remove the bellows, Figure 5. The shutoff of the music box shown is a modern one. Remove the hooks and rings from the chains, and The music box locking lever has an elongated hole remove the chains from the movement. Tip: If the with a sliding fit on its shoulder screw (arrow A, Fig- weight hooks are all the way up to the bottom of the ure 6) when the pin on the music box locking lever case, use the end nippers to clip off the last link to is pulled out of the hole in the main gear (arrow B, remove the weight hook(s). Figure 6). The music box locking lever is pulled up-
ward above the hole in the main gear, due to spring Fig. 5 tension (arrow C, Figure 6). When the pin of the music box locking lever is above the hole in the main gear of the music box, there can’t be a false start because the pin can’t drop back into the hole. When the pin of the music box locking lever drops back in the hole at the end of the music cycle, the hole in the gear pulls the pin of the music box locking lever down. This is due to the elongated hole in the music box locking lever. Removing the Music Box At the same time, the prong on the upper part of the Most music box units are held in with three screws music box locking lever with the plastic tubing moves that are on the side of the case. Remove the winding down, contacts the fly, and stops the music at the end chain and the waterwheel, if it has one, by loosening of the tune (arrow D, Figure 6).
the screw on the waterwheel. Don’t take the screw Fig. 6 all the way out; just loosen it. Remove the screws from the side of the case that holds the music box with its mounting board, if it has a mounting board, and remove the music box. Make all repairs to the music box. Tip: Don’t place the music box in the clean- ing machine, only the governor. If the music box is placed in the cleaning machine, the dampers will be
Horological Times 17 Technical Discussion: Adjusting Side-Mounted Music Boxes in Cuckoo Clocks
Adjustment for Proper Operation the music when it shouldn’t. When music is called for As the music completes its cycle, the music box lock- on the next hour, the binding of the pin in the hole ing lever is pulled down when the pin falls back in will stop the clock because the clock does not have the hole of the main gear (arrow A, Figure 7). At enough power to pull the pin out of the hole in the this time, there must be part of the elongated hole main gear.
showing at the shoulder screw (arrow B, Figure 7). Replacing the Components The prong holding the plastic piece of tubing has After repairs are made to the movement, music box, also moved down and stopped the fly (arrow C, and bellows, if needed, replace the movement and Figure 7). Note: The plastic tubing is sold as gas line then the music box. Place the chains on the movement for model airplane engines and can be purchased at and music box. Tip: After placing the chains on the hobby shops. movement, place the movement center shaft in the Fig. 7 mounting hole at the back top of the case. Do this to hold the movement while the chains are threaded through the holes in the bottom of the case. After the movement and the music box have been mounted, reattach the bellows in the reverse order that they were removed by holding the lifter wire by the bellows’ top with a finger on the lifter wire. Then insert the lower end of the lifter wire in the closed loop of the movement lifter. Note: In almost all cuckoo clocks the longest lifter wire is on the right bellows. The longest movement lifter, usually the lower one, is connected to the right bellows lifter wire. To make this adjustment, move the plastic piece of tubing up or down until part of the elongated hole Music Box Levers is showing at the shoulder screw. Do this when the There are only two adjustments to control the warn- music box has completed its cycle and the plastic ing of the music box. When the clock approaches the piece is holding the fly. If the plastic piece of tubing hour, the cam on the center shaft lifts the movement is loose on the prong, replace it and slide the tubing warning lever. At the same time, the rack hook is be- all the way up on the prong. Cut off what is needed so ing lifted by the movement warning lever. This moves part of the elongated hole is showing when the plastic the music warning lever that is attached to the end tubing is holding the fly. If this adjustment is not cor- of the shaft of the rack hook in a downward posi- rect, the unit could continue to rotate until the hole tion, along with the whipping wire that is attached in the main gear binds with the pin of the music box to the music warning lever (arrow A, Figure 8). As locking lever. The gear binding with the pin will stop the music warning lever moves down, it contacts the
18 February 2018 Fig. 8 cases, if the music weight descends twice as fast as the time-and-strike weights, the music is designed to play on the hour only. If the music weight descends half as fast, then the music is designed to play on the hour and the half hour. Hour/Half-Hour Adjustment
The cam on the center shaft of the movement has two lobes—one higher than the other. The higher lobe is for the hour strike and the shorter, lower lobe is for the half-hour strike. When warning is called for on the hour, the high lobe of the cam L-shaped music box locking lever on the music box lifts the warning lever. Then, the warning lever (arrow B, Figure 8). The whipping wire moves into lifts the rack hook higher than it is lifted when the the fly to hold the music box in warning while the gathering pallet is at its highest point while the clock is striking (arrow C, Figure 8). When the clock clock is striking. This difference in height of the is striking, the whipping wire will be moving back warning and the highest point on the gathering and forth, but fully engaged and holding the fly. This pallet is what makes it possible to play music on the is due to the gathering pallet lifting and dropping the hour only. rack hook when the gathering pallet is gathering the To adjust for music on the hour only, turn the rack teeth. minute hand so the clock goes into warning for the When the striking completes its cycle, the rack hour. Adjust the music warning lever so the pin hook falls below the rack, and the whipping wire on the music box locking lever is just out and up- moves upward and clears the fly. At this time the mu- ward from the hole in the main gear of the music sic starts and completes its cycle. box (arrow A, Figure 9). At this time, the whipping
Adjusting the Music Warning Lever for Fig. 9 Proper Operation
The music warning lever shown is a stamped-style lever with the whipping wire attached to it. These levers come in longer or shorter configurations de- pending on the size of the case. Most side-mount- ed music boxes play two tunes, one at the hour and one at the half hour, but not always because some only play music on the hour. Note: You will have to watch the weights as they descend. In almost all
Horological Times 19 Technical Discussion: Adjusting Side-Mounted Music Boxes in Cuckoo Clocks
wire should be holding the fly (arrow B, Figure 9). Fig. 10 The whipping wire must only contact the fly and not any other part of the governor. If the whipping wire contacts any other part of the governor, the striking can be continuous. This is true for all mu- sic box configurations. Note: A fine adjustment is done by holding the music box locking lever at the pin that goes in the hole of the main gear, and using a slotted tool that is bent 90° to adjust the horizontal part of the mu- sic box locking lever, Figure 10. If pliers are used, use smooth-jaw pliers because serrated-jaw pliers will mar the top of the horizontal lever, and cause music warning lever pulses lower one pulse from the music box locking lever not to slide due to it the gathering pallet. This causes the music box catching on the music warning lever. The adjust- locking lever to come out from the hole in the mu- ment might take a couple of tries to get it right. sic box main gear, which starts the music. If this After the hour-only adjustment is complet- happens, use the 90° bending tool to adjust the mu- ed, and it works as adjusted, using the 90° slotted sic box locking lever down so the music will only bending tool, bend the horizontal part of the music go into warning on the hour. box locking lever upward just a little. Then, test to Use the slotted tools to bend the whipping wire see if the music will go into warning when the half as needed. When the rack is in the zero position, hour strikes. Repeat as needed. adjust the whipping wire so it is outside the edge There is a pulse that the rack hook receives of the fly and not touching the fly. When this ad- from the gathering pallet when the gathering pallet justment is correct, the whipping wire will make is at its highest point during the half-hour strike contact with the fly before the pin comes out of with only one revolution of the gathering pallet. the hole in the main gear of the music box during This pulse can be frustrating for clock repairers warning of the movement, and hold the music box making the hour-only adjustment. When the move- in warning until striking stops. After striking stops, ment goes into warning on the half hour, the rack the whipping wire will move beyond the fly and the hook is only lifted just enough to release the warn- music will start. If this condition is not met, the ing pin on the warning wheel of the strike train music will start and stop while the clock is striking, from the short lobe of the cam on the center shaft. or the music will start playing when the movement The pin on the music box locking lever is still in its goes into warning. hole, and when the movement goes into strike, the
20 February 2018 Waterwheels and Dancing Platforms Fig. 11 Waterwheels are straightforward. They are usually mounted on the music box shaft when the water- wheel is on the front of the clock, but not always. Some are free-running on the shaft, and others are held on the shaft with a screw. Others can be off- set with gearing, as when the waterwheel is on the side of the clock. Dancing platforms come in different configu- rations. Some are attached to the front of the case and are geared to the music box by direct gearing, shafts with gears, or rotated by cuckoo clock chain and sprockets. Other platforms are attached to the governor. The music will not play the next time it movement itself and rotated by shafts and gearing. is called for. To remedy this, open the side door All of the above are run off of the music box. The and, using a small screwdriver, push the locking dancing platforms give almost no trouble. During tab forward to release it. Then music will play as it cleaning the dancers must be removed. The pins should normally play. that the dancers ride on should be removed during I hope this has been informative and helps you cleaning and cleaned also. As for lubrication, it’s my when making future repairs on cuckoo clocks. opinion that the figurines run dry, except for the Paul Corn is an independent clockmaker and owner of Fine pins that the dancers run on and the dancing plat- Clock Repairing in Waldorf, Maryland. form shaft. In this case, only a very light amount of lubrication is used. There can be trouble with danc- ing platforms and gearing made from plastic. They fail over time, and a replacement is seldom found. There is another style of music box governor that is worth mentioning. It is the Schmeckenbecher, Figure 11. The governor is attached on the left side of the #25 Regula movement, as you are looking from the back of the movement. This governor gives little to no problems. However, if the music weight is pulled too hard, the locking tab that goes into the slotted maintenance disk of the governor will be pulled backward and bind, locking up the
Horological Times 21 Technical Discussion: Restoration Tip—Hand Pipe (Tube) Making Restoration Tip Hand Pipe (Tube) Making
By Henrik Korpela
Friction As a restoration tip, I would like to show how to re- a place a new tube (pipe) for a vintage chronograph sec- b onds-counting hand. Perhaps you need to keep the orig- inal hand, but the tube no longer closes enough to be tight on the axel. Or perhaps the rivet of the tube has become weak and no longer holds the hand in position. 1. The old pipe rivet can first be weakened in the staking set by using a three-faced punch to cut away some of the rivet. Pay attention to the hand so that you don’t cut into the hand itself. With a flat-faced punch smaller than the rivet and the d hole of the hand, press it out carefully without damaging the hand, or very lightly tap it out. c 2. With pivot gauges, measure the hole in the hand and write down the value. 3. Measure the thickness of the hand and write Fig. 1. Drawing of hand pipe. down the value. 4. Make a simple drawing of the pipe with the a = The outside diameter of the pipe. It should be necessary values to turn it. The length of the slightly smaller than the hole of the cannon pin- pipe should not be too short because there ion so that in no place the pipe would scrape the would be less material around the chrono- inside of the cannon pinion, taking into account graph runner axle—i.e., less friction to hold it sideshake and some small wobble of the chrono- in place. It should also not be too long because graph runner axle. it could then touch the center tube, stopping b = The rivet diameter. It should be 0.01mm bigger the watch upon activation of the chronograph. than the hole in the hand to be friction fit. The hole in the pipe should be drilled much smaller than the axle diameter. The final hole c = See #4, above. diameter should be adjusted with reamers be- d = The length of the rivet. It must be longer than fore installation. the hand is thick to act as an effective rivet, but not 5. Example drawing of the pipe after turning too long to fail as a rivet. Usually, at least 0.10mm the shoulder for the hand but before fitting it longer and maximum 0.20mm are good values. to the hand:
22 February 2018 Fitting the Hand
Fig. 4. As with the balance staff, we end the rivet- ing with a flat-faced punch in the same manner as in Figure 3.
Fig. 2. Pressing on the hand with the Horia jeweling tool, make sure the anvil has a small hole to take the rivet. Using a brass anvil also reduces the risk of scratching the hand. Alternatively, some fine paper can be used under the hand as protection.
Fig. 3. Rivet in the staking set with a conical punch to spread the material. The pipe is resting on the Fig. 5. Optionally, you can round polish the rivet flat part of the anvil. Many light taps and keeping for aesthetic purposes. Here it is done with a flat- the hand turning while tapping reduces the risk of faced punch with some very fine abrasive paper having the pipe end tilt out of square or mushroom. glued at the end. It would go on top of the rivet, This technique is similar to how you would normally and you would spin it by hand until the desired rivet a balance staff—but with much lighter blows result is obtained. Make sure the paper does not because the tube is usually made from brass or touch the hand because it will create circular nickel. scratches around the rivet.
Henrik Korpela is a watchmaker living in Switzerland and the principal of Korpela and Hofs Watchmaking Competence Centre.
Horological Times 23 Explore Texas history and culture at the Bullock Texas State History Museum
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in the industry! www.awci.com/timecon Industry NEWS Cas-Ker Has a New Tool & Supply Catalog and Updated Website
By Donna Hardy
incinnati-based watch materials supplier, Regular customers can expect to receive the C Cas-Ker Company, launched a new prod- new catalog free with their next supply order. New uct website at www.casker.com, and a new tool customers can call 1-800-487-0408 to request a and supply catalog. Both became available in catalog for $15 + shipping.
January 2018. Source: Cas-Ker Company press release Both the website and the catalog include thou- sands of products for professional watch- makers, including specialty horological tools, precision testing, measuring and repair equipment, and watch parts. The website’s new mobile-responsive, secure shopping site features expanded search capabilities, simplified product cat- egory organization, and responsive web pages. Large color photos, up-to-date pric- ing, in-stock sizes, and detailed descrip- tions are included for each product. Cas-Ker’s new ninth edition, 448-page print catalog is arranged and indexed to make it easy for watchmakers to find prod- ucts they are looking for. It also includes large photos, updated prices, sizes, and detailed descriptions for each product.
Donna Hardy is the managing editor of the Horological Times.
Horological Times 25 Industry News: In Summary In Summary By Aaron Recksiek, CW21
can be ordered from the website Govberg Jewelers, Tay Liam Wee, www.fhs.swiss/eng/dictionary. former owner of Sincere Watch, and html for 250 Swiss francs. The investor-entrepreneur Justin Reis. FHS also publishes an industry WatchBox, originally named The Illustrated periodical 20 times a year, the Watch Enthusiasts’ Ultimate Person- Professional Dictionary of Horology Revue FH, available as an annual al Assistant, started out as a smart- App Now Available subscription for 550 Swiss francs. phone and tablet app, subsidized by The Swiss watch industry’s stan- Past issues of the Revue FH can be Govberg, that allowed users to up- dard dictionary of horological checked out of AWCI’s Henry B. load their personal watch collections terms, commonly referred to as Fried Library for free with AWCI into the app, creating a virtual depos- Berner's Dictionary of Horology, membership. itory of ownership information. It is now available as a free app for was used to store information about smartphone and tablet. The orig- the owner’s collection, such as pur- inal physical hardcover dictionary chase date and price, serial numbers, was authored by G.-A. Berner in warranty details, and service history. 1961 and supplemented in 1995. The app would also compare the The book is over 1,300 pages long user’s collection with “The Watch and includes 4,790 entries, 690 Pricing Guide” by Govberg to dis-
subentries, and 948 illustrations. It https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/dictionnaire-berner/ play the current market value of each is published by the Federation of id1214969962?mt=8 watch. An extension of the original the Swiss Watch Industry FH (or app, the new sales portal creates a FHS), the industry's leading trade streamlined way for collectors to sell association, with more than 500 or trade their watches more easily. members making up more than In November, WatchBox received 90% of all Swiss watch brands. a $100 million capital investment Berner’s dictionary was made from CMIA Capital Partners to help available online in 2010, and the propel the site towards its goal of be- app is essentially an easier-to-use https://play.google.com/store/apps/ coming the industry’s premier pre- details?id=ch.fhs.android&hl=fr version of the online dictionary owned watch sales portal. www.fhs.swiss/eng/dictionary.html with a better user interface. The dictionary, in all of its forms—on- WatchBox line, app, and hardcover book— There is a new online portal for contains entries in the follow- buying, selling, and even trad- ing languages: French, English, ing pre-owned watches. The site, German, and Spanish. If you www.thewatchbox.com, was found- www.thewatchbox.com/about-us Aaron Recksiek is an independent watchmaker in Salt Lake City, prefer the physical dictionary, it ed by Danny Govberg, CEO of Utah. He is a graduate of the 2008 WOSTEP class at the Lititz Watch Technicum.
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When you are not sure if you can get parts: Visit AWCI’s Brand Directory awci.com/brand-directory Creating our new Directory of Spare We do not list brands in this direc- We know that sometimes you will A link to the directory appears on Parts Policies was hard work. The com- tory until they have been given ample have an experience that conflicts the AWCI home page so that consum- mittee spent many long hours on the opportunity to respond to the survey. with what a particular brand report- ers can openly see which brands sup- phone with watch brands to get the Once we have recorded their respons- ed in their survey results. Use this port independent repairpersons. responses you see at awci.com—and es, the results immediately appear on directory as a tool. When you are told Brand representatives who feel their the work is not done. This directory our web page. Brands that decline to you cannot order parts for a brand company has been misrepresented is a dynamic list, and the committee participate in the survey will appear that has indicated they sell parts to should contact AWCI so that we can ac- continues to reach out to brands in an in the directory with a note indicating watchmakers, please take the time to curately report their company’s policies. effort to complete the list. their refusal to participate. explain to the representative that in When members of the watch-col- We hope this directory will be a recent survey they reported to the lecting community visit the directory, a valuable tool in your workshop. American Watchmakers-Clockmakers they will see critical information to When you see a brand that isn’t on Institute that they sold parts to watch- help them make an informed decision the list, we would like your help. makers. Mention the name of the indi- about purchasing a watch based on the A blank copy of the full survey is vidual who gave the survey responses. brand’s after-sales service and spare available at awci.com. Please take If you still do not get the same results, parts policies. As a member of AWCI, every opportunity to ask watch brands ask them if they would like to submit when you log in to the webpage, you to participate in the survey. Record new responses to the survey. Please will see the complete survey responses your responses and send them to AWCI report your findings to AWCI. and contact information. so we can update our directory.
Horological Times 27 Book Review: 100+ No BS Watch Tips: For Watch Enthusiasts & Salespeople
100+ No BS Watch Tips: For Watch Enthusiasts & Salespeople By Anthony L. Reviewed By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 Published by CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform 276 pages Available in paperback ($30) or Kindle edition ($25): ISBN-10: 1537398792 ISBN-13: 978-1537398792
nthony L. is an alias for a watchmaker who of analogies between watch repair and car repair; I A has a robust presence on Instagram (13,000 believe they are overused in our profession. However, followers) as the No BS Watchmaker. He is trained in the instances that are used in this book, they seem on Rolex, Omega, and Jaegar Le-Coultre. As the to work. title of the book implies, it is a collection of tips for In most cases, the subject matter was extreme- watchmakers, watch collectors, and watch salespeople. ly familiar. It felt like I was reading about conversa- In the preface, the author suggests skipping tions that I have had with other watchmakers over the around; each tip is meant to stand on its own. The years—those times when you complain about certain author says, “It was designed to be short and dense. jobs or a certain situation with a customer. At times, You should be able to flip to any page and pick up it felt a little like a support group or self-help book for from there. I want you to skip anything that doesn’t watchmakers, just knowing that you are not alone in interest you.” There are some repetitive parts, and that is probably because most of the tips are derived from his Instagram posts, where he shares what is on his mind that day. However, it seems that the repetitions often make important points. After starting to read 100+ No BS Watch Tips, I soon realized this book has many facets. It doesn’t just cater to collectors or salespeople or watchmak- ers; it reaches many demographics. There is some- thing here for everyone involved in the industry. For me, one of the most important aspects of being an independent watchmaker is being able to effectively communicate with my clients. In many cases, this book simplifies some of the explanations I have given during conversations with my custom- ers. In the future, it will help me better articulate what I am trying to get across. I’m not always a fan
28 February 2018 A sample of one of Anthony L.’s Instagram posts. His book is a compilation of his Instagram posts, which aim to instruct by sharing watch tips and other information about the watch industry.
these experiences. I even laughed out loud at several get an apprenticeship with a watchmaker as well as points throughout the book. For example: “Tip #64: information on watchmaking schools and other ed- Don’t touch the Watchmaker’s bench.” ucational programs. “Tip #83: How to get an ap- Overall, I believe this book is good for watch- prenticeship under a watchmaker.” The author gives makers and the watchmaking profession. For collec- this advice: “Check out AWCI’s educational cours- tors, not only does it stress the importance of finding es. Pay for one of their introductory 5-day Watch- and using a qualified watchmaker and being proper- making courses taught by Tom Schomaker. Tom is a ly educated, but it helps bring the watchmaker out phenomenal teacher. You will quickly learn what it of the back closet and into the forefront. “Tip #15: takes to be a Watchmaker.” Watchmakers are not second class citizens.” Collec- Anthony L. is a very experienced watchmaker, tors will benefit greatly from this book, not only in but he doesn’t rub it in your face. I don’t detect a how to relate to and connect with a watchmaker, but semblance of arrogance. He tells it like it is, which also how to understand their watches better. “Tip may rub some people the wrong way, but I think that #32: How to run your own quality control check on plays a big part in his authenticity. an automatic watch.” For salespeople, the informa- Disclaimer: If you are sensitive to harsh or tion contained in this book can improve the rela- crude language, please read with discretion. The tionships between them and the watchmakers they book is meant to be humorous, politically incorrect, work with. Many of the same tips that are useful to and a fun read. collectors are also useful to salespeople. You can view Anthony L.’s online content on I have no doubt that this book will also in- Instagram @nobswatchmaker, or on his website at crease the number of people who are interested in https://nobswatchmaker.com.
watchmaking as a career. There are tips on how to Aaron Recksiek is an independent watchmaker in Salt Lake City, Utah. He is a graduate of the 2008 WOSTEP class at the Lititz Watch Technicum.
Horological Times 29 Column: From the Workshop From the Workshop By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI
Is the Mainspring Barrel Really Sealed? ones previously used, they significantly changed the re- Many years ago, I learned that it was best to avoid dis- placement market for mainsprings within a few years. cussing religion and politics to keep conversations civil. Old-timers have told me that many watchmakers That same advice can be extrapolated to discussing lu- were not happy to see a profit center of their business brication or mainsprings with a group of watchmakers. wiped out by the new technology. Instead of replacing I will preface this article about barrels by saying that the mainspring each time the watch was serviced, the the observations presented here are my own without unbreakable mainspring could be cleaned by wiping any supportive documentation, primarily because very with a tissue followed by wiping with an oil-dampened little documentation exists. tissue. Many companies recommended annual cleaning Blue steel mainsprings, which were the industry and oiling of their movements. Unless the unbreakable standard until a few years after World War II, were mainspring failed, it could be reused again and again. both low in cost and reliable. Because they were low Soon the mainspring manufacturers developed a dry cost, the watchmakers of that era bought them in quan- lubricant coating for the mainspring, thus eliminating lu- tity and replaced them every time the watch was ser- bricating oil on the mainspring itself. Quick Fit listed six viced. The additional charge for a new mainspring with improvements on every mainspring package, Figure 1. every service helped those watchmakers increase their meager earnings. I call them reliable because a watch- maker could rely upon them to either break, set (lose their resilience), or rust—thus necessitating a small but continuous source of revenue. To lubricate those mainsprings, the watch manufac- turers often recommended wiping the mainspring with a tissue dampened with watch oil. Immediately after the war, the three existing American watch companies of that era feverishly worked to develop new mainspring alloys that would not easily break or set. Each of them, almost simultaneously, brought out their own version of what was called the unbreakable mainspring. Elgin had its Durapower, Hamilton the Dynavar, and Waltham made Permaforce. Additionally, Swiss, French, and German mainspring factories also developed their own alloys for mainsprings. These new alloys were silver in color, highly resistant to breakage while in service, and rust resistant. In addition, they were antimagnetic. Because these main- springs had a far longer useful life than the blue steel Fig. 1. Improved mainspring.
30 February 2018 C&E Marshall even claimed that their mainsprings were followed with a wipe from an oil-dampened tissue in case lifetime lubricated, Figure 2. Those advertised improve- the coating had worn away. ments were not hyperbole but represented significant im- Alessandro emphasized that ETA, as well as many provements in the quality of the product after World War other manufacturers, are so concerned with the quality II. Although these mainsprings were called unbreakable, of the mainspring and barrel assembly that rather than they did occasionally break or sometimes develop bumps install the mainsprings in their factory, they send their along their length, necessitating replacement. empty mainspring barrels to the mainspring manufactur- er for installation, lubrication, and quality control. At the manufacturer the mainsprings are inserted into the bar- rel (automatic barrel walls are lubricated there), the barrel arbors are lubricated, barrel cover fitted, and the arbor endshake checked. Each barrel’s power output (torque) is then tested to be certain it conforms to the factory standards. The barrels meeting quality control standards are returned to the watch manufacturer for use in a new movement or as a genuine, replacement part. From the 1950s through the 1970s, some watch man- ufacturers were installing “sealed” barrels in their move- ments. Manufacturers such as Bulova, Longines, and Zodiac were among those that used sealed barrels. One rationale for using such a barrel, as told by Henry B. Fried to me, was that the manufacturers considered it better practice to just reuse the old barrel, without cleaning or lubricating it. They assumed that an unopened, used bar- rel would perform better than one that was improperly serviced and reused. If any component of a sealed barrel failed, it had to be replaced with a new barrel complete. Fig. 2. Lifetime mainspring. The manufacturers did not supply any components for If a used mainspring is not broken, bumpy, or dis- their “sealed” barrels. Those barrels are now obsolete. I torted, can it, or should it, be reused? There seems to am unaware of any company having used that terminol- be no clearly defined answer to that question although I ogy since the 1970s, yet the concept is still alive and well have heard varying answers from authoritative sources. now because many watch manufacturers have stopped Alessandro Betti at ETA’s Customer Training Center in supplying barrel components. They only supply a barrel Grenchen said to me during a class that if a used, un- complete. For all practical purposes they are sealed with- breakable mainspring was visually good, it was probably out being marked as such. safe to reuse it. He did state that it should not be cleaned Were those old barrels really sealed? In most cases with any solvent (may react with the self-lubricating coat- the answer is no. Almost all, with a few exceptions, could ing or the metal itself) but only wiped clean with a tissue be opened and serviced as any other mainspring barrel
Horological Times 31 Column: From the Workshop
that was not so marked. When those watches, now 40 Although a past generation of watchmakers thought to 60 years old, need a replacement mainspring, it may the mainspring replacement business was going to disap- not be available because many of those old barrels had pear with the advent of the unbreakable ones coming to unique mainsprings that were never available from the market, they did not foresee today’s repair environment. material distributors. To get the correct mainspring, you In those days, mainsprings cost 30¢, Figure 3, and per- need to obtain a barrel complete, but there are very few haps the watchmakers resold them for a dollar, which remaining new ones in any supply house. they considered a decent markup. Today a mainspring Although most “sealed” barrels could be serviced, may cost anywhere from $15 to $50 or more, and a barrel some automatic models (Zodiac and Girard Perragaux complete will be more costly. Watchmakers still buy and come to mind) had barrels that were difficult to open and resell mainsprings so that market has not disappeared. nearly impossible to close again. These covers of those As an illustration, we recently needed a mainspring for barrels were secured in place by a burnished edge that a highly collectible watch with an automatic movement was easily damaged when the barrel cover was pushed off that sells for thousands of dollars. Of course, there was and further damaged when trying to reinstall it. That was no replacement mainspring ever sold for that model so no problem when those old companies were in business. we searched for a barrel complete (sealed one, of course). The watchmakers just ordered a new barrel complete. Al- That barrel complete was available and we paid $195 for though those brands still survive, they no longer support it and thanked the vendor for having it in stock. Those the old products made by their predecessor firms. Those days of 30¢ mainsprings are long gone. barrels were truly “sealed.” When one is servicing any watch movement, the most foolproof method of mainspring service is to replace the barrel complete with a genuine part during each service intervention. That guarantees a known standard of quality in the power supply for any movement. Many manufac- turers now only supply complete barrels for their models so that a genuine replacement mainspring is not an op- tion. In other cases when the used barrel appears to be in good condition, and a genuine replacement mainspring is available, then a new mainspring is a good choice. Ei- ther way, the watchmaker is assured that the power supply will be adequate for the movement. Even though a used mainspring may look good visually, it could be defective in several ways. Perhaps it is an incorrect replacement in- stalled during a previous service. Even if it is the correct mainspring, it may no longer be able to deliver a constant power supply to the train and there is no way to deter- Fig. 3. Mainspring prices from 1935. mine that visually. Numerous major brands specify, as a Jack Kurdzionak, watchmaker and watch material special- minimum, a new mainspring with every service just to ist, owned a Boston-area watch sales and service shop for 40 years. He has a BS (Northeastern University, 1967) and eliminate any power supply problem with a repair. has studied at ETA, WOSTEP, BHI, SGUS, and AWCI, and works for Eckcells Watch Materials.
32 February 2018
AWCI News: Affiliate Chapter Highlights Affiliate Chapter Highlights Horological Society of New York (HSNY) By Edwin M. Hydeman, Executive Director of Horological Society of New York
OUR NEW SLATE OF OFFICERS, ELECTED ON DECEMBER 13, 2017, IS AS FOLLOWS:
OFFICERS Nicholas Manousos, President Christa Chance, Recording Daniel Mooncai, Trustee Luke Cox-Bien, Vice President Secretary Karen Ripley, Trustee Edwin M. Hydeman, Ex Officio Benjamin Clymer, Trustee Kiran Shekar, Trustee Charles Salomon, Treasurer Michael Friedman, Trustee Brett Walsdorf, Trustee Michael Osnato, Archivist William Massena, Trustee
STAFF
Edwin M. Hydeman, Executive Vincent Robert, Director of Dan Gottesman, Videographer Director Traveling Education John Rokosny, Sound Technician Kathleen McGivney, Director of Luke Cox-Bien, Director of Trevor Darling, Instructor Operations Horological Studies Bethany DeBlander, Instructor Brett Walsdorf, Director of Ryan Jewell, Director of Vadim Finkel, Instructor Special Events Fundraising Briana Le, Instructor Steve Eagle, Director of Christa Chance, Librarian Nathan Mosquera, Instructor Education Atom Moore, Photographer
was a good year for the Horological Our traveling education classes were held in 12 cities with 2017 Society of New York. We began the 240 attendees. The enthusiasm for these offerings is nothing year with a new president with the election of Nicholas short of amazing. We were also very pleased to announce Manousos, who served as vice president, as Edwin Hydeman our Henry B. Fried Scholarship Award of $5,000 that was stepped down after serving as president for eight years. In awarded to Justin Schellenberg, a student at Lititz Watch April, we celebrated our 151st anniversary with a gala and Technicum.* We ended the year with a very special class auction. As of this writing, we have had eight horological and lecture by Roger W. Smith, the protégé of George lectures. We held 65 horological classes with 350 attendees. Daniels. Visit our website, www.hs-ny.org.
*Editor’s Note: See page 37 for information about HSNY’s expanded scholarship for 2018.
34 February 2018 Stephen Forsey, Co-Founder of Greubel Forsey, lectured at HSNY.
Justin Shellenberger, winner of the 2017 HSNY Henry B. Fried Scholarship (left), with Steve Eagle, HSNY Director of Education (right).
William Massena, Managing Director of TimeZone.
Ben Clymer, Founder & CEO, Hodinkee.com (left) with John Reardon, Senior Vice President and International Head of Christie’s Watch Department (right).
At left, Jordan Ficklin, Executive Director of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute, shares a laugh with Justin Shellenberger, recipient of the HSNY Henry B. Fried Scholarship (center), and Nathan Bobinchak, student at Lititz Watch Technicum, at right.
Dr. Rebecca Struthers, FBHI, DGA, MA, FRSA, PhD, AFHEA, Watchmaker & Co-Founding Sophie Rindler, Head of RedBar Miami, attended one of our traveling education classes Director, Struthers London, Research Associate and Visiting Lecturer, Horology, Birmingham hosted by FP Journe in Miami, Florida. City University.
Horological Times 35 AWCI News: Affiliate Chapter Highlights
The 2017 HSNY 151st Annual Gala: (left to right) Walter Pangretisch, Recording Secretary, HSNY; Charles Salomon (hidden), Treasurer, HSNY; Karen Ripley, Trustee, HSNY; Edwin Vincent Robert, Director of HSNY Traveling Education Department, instructed a class in San Hydeman, former President and now Executive Director, HSNY; and Laura Petite, Interior Francisco, California. Design Specialist at Rolex.
John Reardon, Senior Vice President and International Head of Christie’s Watch Department (left) and Nicholas Manousos, President of the Horological Society of New York (right).
After many years in a variety of occupations, Edwin M. Hydeman graduated from the Joseph Bulova School in New York City in 1995 and worked for Tiffany & Co., Richemont, and Rolex, USA. He joined the Horological Society of New York while attending watchmaking school and has served as vice president and president, and is now serving as executive director.
36 February 2018 AWCI News: Henry B. Fried Scholarship Watchmaking Students’ Opportunities Expand as HSNY Quadruples Its Henry B. Fried Scholarship By Donna Hardy
hile many watchmaking schools are tui- a full-time watchmaking school in the US are eligi- Wtion-free, students still need to defray their ble. To apply, students should email a letter to HSNY living expenses while attending. Many watchmaking at [email protected] that includes a brief biography and schools are not accredited, meaning student loans explanation of their motivation to study watchmak- are not possible. Watchmakers are in demand, and ing. Any student who has been accepted or is current- more watchmakers are retiring than are graduating ly studying at a full-time watchmaking school in the from schools. The Horological Society of New York US is eligible for the Henry B. Fried Scholarship. For (HSNY) wants to increase the number of students more information, go to www.hs-ny.org/scholarship. studying at full-time watchmaking schools in the HSNY’s president, Nicholas Manousos, says, US by offering the Henry B. Fried Scholarship. Es- “We are planning to use the rest of the donation tablished in early 2017, the Henry B. Fried Scholar- for more scholarships. We are working to contin- ship was awarded for the first time last year to Justin ually expand the scholarship program as much as Shellenberger, a student at the Lititz Watch Techni- possible.” The Henry B. Fried Scholarship will be cum. (See page 34.) awarded annually on March 1. There will be a dramatic expansion of the Henry About Henry B. Fried B. Fried Scholarship in 2018. A generous and anon- Henry B. Fried (1907- ymous donation of $100,000 was made to the fund 1996) was vice president shortly after Roger W. Smith’s lecture at HSNY in of the Horological Insti- December 2017. Consequently, the Henry B. Fried tute of America (a pre- Scholarship will quadruple from one award of cursor to the American $5,000 to two awards of $10,000 each. The applica- Watchmakers-Clock- tion period is open now through March 1, 2018, and makers Institute), presi- the scholarships will be awarded at HSNY’s annual dent of the Horological Henry B. Fried Gala & Charity Auction on April 18, 2018. Students Society of New York, president of the New York who are either studying at or have been accepted to State Watchmakers Association, and a prolific au-
Horological Times 37 AWCI News: Henry B. Fried Scholarship
thor. Fried authored 14 books on watchmaking that working watchmakers in New York. Today, HSNY continue to be in high demand. He was the first is a member- and sponsor-supported 501(c)(3) non- American to receive the Silver Medal of the British profit focused on education. See page 34 for more Horological Institute. The New York Times described information about HSNY.
him as “the dean of American watchmakers.” Photos courtesy of Caryl Feldman and the Horological Society of New York.
About the Horological Society of Sources: Hodinkee.com New York www.hs-ny.org Founded in 1866, HSNY is one of the oldest Nicholas Manousos, President of the Horological Society of New York continuously operating horological associations in
the world. HSNY was started as a guild (union) for Donna Hardy is the managing editor of the Horological Times.
Henry B. Fried instructing a watchmaking class. Remembering Hans Weber 1932-2018
Hans Weber passed on January 6, 2018, at his home in AWCI convention until health issues limited his trav- Mahwah, New Jersey, with family by his side. Before el. He organized the WANJ 75th Anniversary Gala in retiring in 1998, Weber worked in watch and clock 2014. Weber was also an active member of HSNY for repair for local clock and jewelry stores, such as Sears, over 50 years. He was their oldest living member and Cartier, and Tiffany & Co. Hans Weber was a mem- was the only member to attend the 100th Anniversary ber of AWCI, the Horological Society of New York in 1966 and the 150th Anniversary in 2016. He was (HSNY), and the Watchmakers’ Association of New trustee for HSNY and was presented with the How- Jersey ( WANJ). ard Fass Award for “extraordinary dedication to the Weber was born in Hannover, Germany, 85 years Society’s ideals.” He received this award at the 150th ago and came to the United States in 1955. Weber was Anniversary event. a life member of WANJ. He was president of the as- The HSNY newsletter described Hans Weber as sociation for two terms. He also served as treasurer a kind man and a talented watchmaker. Dale Sutton, and chairman of their Board of Directors for 10 years. who knew him through WANJ wrote, “He was a He was WANJ’s affiliate chapter representative to the great mentor to younger watchmakers.”
HSNY’s treasurer, Charles Salomon (right), presents Hans Weber (left) the Howard Fass Award at HSNY’s 150th Anniversary Gala in 2016.
Horological Times 39 Affiliate Chapter NEWS
Minnesota Clockmakers Guild (MCG)
In January, George Fisher presented “Soldering Techniques for Small Parts and Assemblies.” The door prizes for the meeting were donated books from the estate of Bruce Robins. Terry Jones won
The Swiss Watch Repairer's Manual, by H. Jendritzki. Ron Widenhoefer won Repairing Cuckoo Clock Es- Susan Wood demonstrated a Rollimat pivot polisher on a capements, by Orville R. Hagans. Steve Robb won jeweler’s lathe. The Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking Training Manual by Bulova, and Richard Zielike won a book about quartz watches. For Show and Tell, Elroy Anderson shared a wheel holder he designed that aligns the pivot with clock bushings and holds the wheels together with a rubber band while polishing. Ron Widenhoefer shared an open-back watch case he made for a restored Caravel
automatic movement. Jeff Pomeroy shared a porta- Ron Saboe demonstrated a shop-built carbide wheel pivot polisher on a jeweler’s lathe. ble planetarium that can be set to the sky view for any given date. Richard Zielike shared an article titled “Benchmark Burnishing with Almen Strip for Sur- face Integrity,” from ScienceDirect.com.
Future MCG Meetings/Topics:
March 1, 2018 –Home Visits: What Do You Do on a House Call? with Richard Zielike
MCG OFFICERS President: Ivy Booth · 612-719-0161 · [email protected] Treasurer: Garth Antila · 715-386-3575 · [email protected] Richard Zielike demonstrated hand burnishing with Secretary: Dean Ziegenbein · 952-454-1247 · [email protected] various types of tools on a jeweler’s lathe.
40 February 2018 Peter Speake-Marin.
Ron Widenhoefer demonstrated how to restore the cutting action of a graver with glass plate and abrasives. stems from Speake-Marin’s time as an antiquarian horologist in London working on antique pocket watches and vintage wristwatches. In his lecture, Speake-Marin addressed the technical points needed to understand modern brands, the finer aspects of independent watchmakers and the key points to consider when looking at caliber manufacturers. Speake-Marin also noted future goals for his website, including his interview series and macrophotography. Peter Speake-Marin, born in Essex, England, left school at 17 and discovered horology. Speake-Marin’s Elroy Anderson shared a wheel holder he designed that aligns the pivot for polishing with clock bushings. watchmaking career has touched on every segment of the watchmaking industry, from the antique world Horological Society of New York of restoration to modern complications, and from (HSNY) being a consultant to developing brands. The following information was obtained from The Horologist's Loupe, submitted by Christa Chance, Recording Secretary, HSNY, Copyright©2018. Published by the Horological Society of New York, Inc.; all rights reserved. HSNY OFFICERS President: Nicholas Manousos An Introduction to The Naked Vice President: Luke Cox-Bien Watchmaker Platform Recording Secretary and Librarian: Christa Chance Treasurer: Charles S. Salomon Peter Speake-Marin, Founder, The Naked Watchmaker, Switzerland At the January meeting of the Horological Society of New York, British watchmaker Peter Speake- Marin presented his new platform for watchmaking education, The Naked Watchmaker. The platform
Horological Times 41 Do you enjoy spending time with other watchmakers and clockmakers? Join Your Local Affiliate Chapter for more information log on to awci.com/about-us/affiliate-chapters Florida Indiana Minnesota New York Ohio Texas LWT Alumni Florida Watch & Clock- Indianapolis Minnesota Clockmakers Horological Society of Watchmakers-Clock- Capital Area Watch & makers Association, Inc. Horological Association Guild New York makers Association of Clockmakers Guild Association Fabio Rodrigues, CW21 Monique Baez, President Ivy Booth, President Nicholas Manousos, President Ohio Glen Morehead, President Aaron Recksiek, CW21, President President 612-719-0161 New York, NY Michael Gainey, CC21 Jay Holloway, Secretary 2064 Alysheba Drive [email protected] 801-580-7673 (C) 786-344-2840 Indianapolis, IN 46234 [email protected] President Pflugerville, TX [email protected] www.hs-ny.org 512-294-7371 317-374-3915 Dean Ziegenbein, Secretary Columbus, OH 4651 152nd Court [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Matt Hritz, CW21 Apple Valley, MN 55124-6801 New York State Watch- 614-833-0378 (B) www.cawcg.org www.lwtalumni.org 952-454-1247 makers Association Vice President [email protected] Mark A. Baker, CMW, CC21 Sarasota, FL Dale LaDue, CMW21 Virginia International Rep Massachusetts West Henrietta, NY Treasurer Horological Association 941-993-0514 Massachusetts Watch- 15852 ½ St. Rt. 62 [email protected] Missouri 585-424-1493 of Virginia makers-Clockmakers Metro St. Louis Watch- P.O. Box 292 John Polk, President Association, Inc. makers-Clockmakers North Carolina Damascus, OH 44619 116-C Ballast Rock Rd. Richard LeBeau, CMW21 Christopher Carey Association North Carolina Watch- 330-537-3939 (W) Powells Point, NC 27966 Treasurer Newton, MA Judit Katona, Secretary makers Association [email protected] 804-335-5006 Saint Petersburg, FL 617-244-3779 [email protected] 727-347-3758 [email protected] [email protected] Mack R. Shuping, CW21 [email protected] Treasurer Pennsylvania http://havhome.org The Chronometer Club Minnesota New Jersey Winston Salem, NC Watchmakers Associa- Michael Griner, CW21, President Watchmakers Associa- 336-287-8402 tion of Pennsylvania Wisconsin Chris Wiles, CW21 Midwest Watchmakers- Wisconsin Horological Panama City, FL Clockmakers Association tion of New Jersey 336-768-1857 (fax) George H. Jones Education Chairmen State College, PA Society 850-866-4303 239-671-3203 Fred Fischer, President Richard Cuny, President [email protected] Jeff Bergey, CMW, President [email protected] Hugo, MN Tom’s River, NJ 814-238-1668 (B & H) Oregon, WI [email protected] 651-429-3340 732-818-9460 [email protected] 608-835-3698 (W) [email protected] [email protected] www.wanj.us 608-843-7153 (C) www.thechronometerclub.org www.mwca.us [email protected] The Theory of Horology AWCI members pay only $188.96 (plus shipping & handling) This book has become the “bible” for schools, training centers, and even watch specialists. “Everything about the theory Is your watchmaker certified? of watchmaking under one Your watch is valuable.Why take chances? roof! Includes the latest elements of watchmaking Your local AWCI Certified watchmaker is dedicated to competent and in a very clear form.” ~Antoine Simonin professional service. AWCI Certified watchmakers are trusted by Director of WOSTEP watch brands & collectors worldwide! September 1999 Not a member? Join today at Find your local AWCI Certified watchmaker by visiting www.awci.com. American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute www.awci.com/become-a-member Phone: (513)367-9800 Toll-Free: (866)367-2924 * www.awci.com Purchase your book online at
Supply Co., Inc. www.awci.com/online-store Regular price $209.95
42 February 2018 President’s Message continued from page 5.
manufactures sold parts through their material house are designed to train their students to work for them in channels, which made them available to all. There was their service centers when they graduate. These students even an office in New York City called WOSIC, Watch- are not prepared to work as independent watchmakers. makers of Switzerland Information Center, where you So, here we are in a new and uncomfortable situation, could get all the latest technical information from where we as an organization want and need the manu- Switzerland. factures’ support and contributions so we can fulfill our Those were the good old days. The times have changed obligation to our membership. It is a tightrope walk for all and now the independent stands alone. Brick-and-mortar involved. However, there are those who see the light. It jewelers are on the road to extinction. There is no longer is apparent that we are again an industry in the middle of any advantage to opening a store with all the overhead and change. Manufactures are now using new manufacturing trimmings to stock brand-name watches and jewelry. No techniques, and this means they are using new and excit- matter how you offer it, the consumer will find it faster ing materials like silicon, and carbon and graphite compo- and cheaper with free delivery, and then bring it to you for sition, not to mention various alloys of gold and ceramics. repair and sizing. Not to mention all the companies have With all these new products coming out, it is apparent that their own outlet stores or boutiques. The companies say we are going to need the companies on our side so we they want to promote after-sales services. However, their can help service their products. After all, they can’t send hands are tied by their corporate headquarters in Switzer- everything back to Switzerland for repair and keep their land. Even the schools they have opened here in the US customers happy!
Executive Director’s Message continued from page 5.
At the request of a researcher, I have been scanning There are so many treasures at AWCI, and I just want- some of the material. If you follow us on Facebook, Twit- ed to tell you about this treasure hunt as a reminder that ter, or Instagram, you may have seen some of the items AWCI has so much to offer. Call or visit us, and check out from this collection. some of our wonderful treasures.
The Watch Repairer’s Manual by Henry B. Fried This book is frequently used as the textbook for courses in watch and clock repair. It is ideal for individual study as well. Published in 1986, the 4th edition includes the six chapters on case settings and winding systems, motor barrels and jeweled main wheels, the verge fusee watch, repairing fusee chains, how to make a verge (staff), and the duplex escapement, which were not present in earlier editions. A total of 26 chapters comprise this 456-page book, along with a glossary, appendices, and over 550 illustrations. Written by Henry B. Fried, dean of American watchmakers, BHI Silver Medalist, and honored teacher, this book is the perfect reference for the beginner, the trade watchmaker, hobbyist, collector, or anyone interested in horology. $59.99 To order, go to the online store at www.awci.com. Recommended reading for CW21 certification
Horological Times 43 Classified Ads help wanted for sale for sale Bobs Watches Watch tool, watch parts and watches FOR SALE Come Join Our Team! Unique opportunity to buy tools, parts, watches New old stock Swiss made We have an immediate opening for a CW21 or SAWTA from serious watchmaker from 50s, 60s, 70s. Watch movements, cases and crystals or WOSTEP technician with experience in Rolex Inventory and pictures upon request. Thousands of Complete Manual Movements watches, and high grade movements. We are a well Richmond, Va. Excellent Price for everything Retired established leader in pre-owned watches and have a 703-201-8972 or Contact Saad Girgis at 972-632-6457 brand new, authorized, state of the art repair facility [email protected] [email protected] with the best tools and equipment. Our office facility offers a friendly business casual environment where teamwork is one of our many objectives. Email wanted to buy directly at [email protected] FOR SALE • Witschi Twin Analyser for Quartz and ATTENTION RETIRED WATCHMAKERS Mechanical Call us before you sell your parts, tools, and • Witschi Proofmaster watches. We have helped over 200 Both 3 1/2 years old. Seldom used. All documents, watchmakers in the last 15 years to dispose of accessories and original box included their accumulations. When you’re really ready Master Watchmaker to sell, we’re ready to buy! Gray & Sons Jewelers Horological Services Phone 229-928-9092 or 727-327-3306. Miami Beach, FL (610)367-7337 Ask for Jeff or Nancy. Master watchmaker wanted for the largest seller E-mail: [email protected] of fine pre-owned watches in the world. See www.grayandsons.com for watches we buy, sell, Our new 2016-2017 Catalog of Parts and repair. Minimum 10 years experience repairing Patek and Repair Supplies is now available... Philippe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Piaget. Experience in Free with any order! RETIRIN chronographs, perpetual calendars, auto movements & or call/write for your lathe work. $70,000 / year plus benefits. copy today... Buying all parts Please fax or e-mail your resume. $5.00 postpaid and 305-865-9666 • Email [email protected] ✦ Watch Repair Tools & Supplies equipment ✦ Clock Repair Tools & Check out other Supplies... for American Help Wanted ads at and European clocks www.awci.com ✦ Horological Repair/ . Reference Books click on Browse through our 81 8 . Education/Careers Career Center inventory and order http://awci-jobs.careerwebsite.com on-line 24-hours a day!... Rolex Dial Wanted www.merritts.com Buying Rolex dials and parts. Top premium prices for vintage! situations wanted Daytona: up to $20,000 1860 Weavertown Rd, Submariner: up to $5,000 CLOCKMAKER/TECHNICIAN Douglassville, PA 19518 GMT: up to $4,000 CC21 Clockmaker is seeking employment in the 610-689-9541 FAX: 610-689-0567 Explorer: up to $2,000 greater Denver CO or Front Range area. Modern dials Gent's: $100 - $1,000 Please email: [email protected] Call: 617-742-0221 for resume and experience info. Email: [email protected] WATCHMAKER/TECHNICIAN Follow us on Twitter! Follow us on Instagram! 30 years experience www.twitter.com/AWCInstitute www.instagram.com/americanwatchmakers Horology School Graduate Like us on Facebook! Check out our educational videos! Please contact John: [email protected] www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes www.youtube.com/awci/videos
44 February 2018 Classified Ads wanted to buy tradespeople 2018 CLASSIFIED POLICY AWCI HT classified advertising fees/rates and minimum Wanted: Chronograph Movements and Parts DENNIS KAYE Advanced Clock Repair Services schedule remain the same as last year. We request that Paying for Valjoux 69, 72, 88 up to $800.00, Venus 178 you put all classified advertising on a credit card. We $300, Longines 13 ZN, 30 CH $500.00, 108 Corgy Drive • Cary, NC 27513 accept MasterCard, Visa, American Express and Discover. Movado 90, 95 $300.00. Also buying high-grade Call 540-SERVICE (737-8423) movements and parts. Now Restoring Painted & Silvered Dials! If you require a physical invoice and 30-day terms, your Dean Sarnelle Porcelain Dial Restoration rates will be higher due to the additional costs incurred in 25 W. Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401 Watch • Pocket Watch • Clock labor, supplies and carrying charges. Platform Escapement Repair 540-885-6064 Atmos Parts & Service HT Classified Rates for 2018: [email protected] Kundo / ATO Coil Repair For Credit Card Payments… For Paper Invoicing… Large Stock of Electric Motors • $1.10 per word • $1.20 per word and $$WANTED ANYTHING$$ All Types Clocks Serviced • Classified “Display” ads • Classified “Display”ads Rolex - Cartier - Patek - Breitling- Panerai - Prompt Reliable Service . . . Guaranteed™ with art borders: $47.50 with art/borders: $52.25 Le Coultre Vacheron - AP - Etc. Large Supply of Watch Movements & per col. inch (2.25” wide) per col inch (2.25”wide) Watches, Boxes, Dials, Links, Parts, Bands, Parts for LeCoultre, Wittnauer & Longines • Blind ads – add’l $15.00 • Blind ads – add’l $16.50 Movements, Crystals, Bezels, Crowns, Clocks, Signs, Call or Visit at dialrepair.com per ad per ad Posters, Catalogs, Instruction Books, Polish Cloths, Minimum Schedule: 3-Month Minimum Wallets, Hats, Shirts, Promo Items, ANYTHING! MAINSPRINGS Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 Advertising studies show it takes over 3 viewings for readers Clock and music box - All sizes. to recognize specifics in your ad. Custom made. Brass gear blanks. Deadline: 30 days before first of month for WANTED WATCH BOXES Timewise (formerly TANI Engineering) Ph: 330-947-0047, E-mail: [email protected] month you plan to run. Buy - Sell - Trade Note: If you place a recruitment ad on the www.awci.com We want most major brands. Career Center as a combo online/HT ad, there’s no need Also buying high-end jewelry brand boxes. to resend the ad to us. The website system is automatic. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 services To Place Your Ad: Email: [email protected] Fax: 513-367-1414 or SERVICE/SALES OF TIMING AND Call: 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924)/513-367-9800 WE BUY WATCHES CLEANING MACHINES Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, Vibrograf, L&R, and Watchmaster Breitling, Audemars, Tudor and others. Over 20 years experience Modern or Vintage. Quick repairs & reasonable prices Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 www.timemachinerepair.com Dale Sutton 609-374-5880 or Horological Times Advertising Policy & Editorial Policy [email protected] Advertising Policy for the Horological Times The publisher reserves the right to approve all advertising copy and reject any advertisements not in keeping with the publisher’s standards. The publisher may, at the publisher’s sole dis- tradespeople ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE cretion and for any reason and without notice, decline to publish or republish any ad, in which case any fees submitted or paid for such ads shall be returned or rebated to the advertiser. The We are Factory Authorized Service for: publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. The advertiser and/or agency agree to assume lia- • Greiner VIBROGRAF bility for all content of advertisements printed. The advertiser will also accept responsibility for FENDLEY & COX WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST any claims or suits arising therefrom brought against the publisher. Printed articles may also be • TICK-O-PRINT & L&R used by the publisher without permission expressly sought, or payment made, on www.awci. 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. com, the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Facebook page, or via other media. RICHARD COX, 972-986-7698/CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI Editorial material and letters of opinion are invited, but reflect the opinions of the authors 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 only and do not represent the views of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute www.fendley-cox.com Used Equipment Bought & Sold (AWCI), its directors, officers or employees. AWCI reserves the right to edit all submitted mate- For Information rials and is under no obligation to accept any submitted materials for publication. The approval procedures are available from AWCI and at www.awci.com. The appearance, reference, or ad- 415-479-8960 vertisement of any product or service in this publication shall not be deemed an endorsement Watch Parts Fabrication: www.electronicinstrumentservice.com of such products, methods or services by AWCI, its directors, officers, or employees. I make all types of movement parts: Vintage to Publisher’s Standards AWCI makes a concerted effort not to publish any advertisement which promotes or depicts modern. MATT HENNING CW, 413-549-1950 DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, practices not in harmony with our professional Standards & Practices for Watchmakers & www.henningwatches.com FINEST QUALITY, Clockmakers. The advertisement of generic parts, tools, and materials is allowed when such advertisement does not possess any trademarked image, brand, or name. Advertisers can refer quantity works welcome. to the items by name, function, quality, size, and description. Genuine parts can be advertised Specialize on changing dial feet as such in accordance with the advertiser’s relationship and agreement with the manufacturer. We encourage advertisers to reach out to our members and market goods and positions to fit the quartz movement. services which will help them to professionally service their clients and repre- Send your works to: KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE sent themselves in a way which will “reflect positively on him or her, on the AWCI, and the entire watch and clock repair industry, including all of its participants.” 112 Central Avenue North, Kent, WA 98032 – AWCI Code of Ethics 253-852-5125
Horological Times 45 awci directory ADVERTISERS’ INDEX BOARD OF DIRECTORS Fellows * Robert F. Bishop AWCI Courses Officers * James H. Broughton Fred S. Burckhardt 513-367-9800 6 Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: President Alice B. Carpenter British Horological Institute [email protected] David A. Christianson bhi.co.uk 14 Aaron Recksiek, CW21: Vice President * George Daniels [email protected] Wes Door Cas-Ker Co. Jack Kurdzionak, CW21: Treasurer and IAB Jerry Faier 1-800-487-0408 14 Director * Henry B. Fried Clocks Magazine [email protected] * Josephine F. Hagans clocksmagazine.com 21 Peter Pronko, PhD: Secretary * Orville R. Hagans [email protected] * Ewell D. Hartman JB Hudson Jewelers * Harold J. Herman [email protected] 33 * J.M. Huckabee * Gerald G. Jaeger Jules Borel & Co. Immediate Past President Jack Kurdzionak 1-800-776-6858 ...inside front cover Fred T. White, CMW21 * Benjamin Matz [email protected] NAWCC * Robert A. Nelson nawcc.org 14 * Hamilton E. Pease Directors * Archie B. Perkins Renata Justin Harrell, CW21 Robert D. Porter 800-527-0719 ...back cover [email protected] Antoine Simonin Craig Stone, CW21 * William O. Smith, Jr. Witschi Electronic Ltd. * Milton C. Stevens [email protected] witschi.com 27 Dennis Warner Dennis Warner, CW21: Affiliate Chapter Director * Marvin E. Whitney [email protected] Peter Whittle *Deceased [email protected] American Watchmakers- Parliamentarian Clockmakers Institute Paul Wadsworth 701 Enterprise Dr. [email protected] Harrison, OH 45030 Ph: 866-FOR-AWCI 513-367-9800 Fax: 513-367-1414 [email protected] • www.awci.com
WE THANK THE IAB AWCI would like to thank our Industry Advisory Board members for their ongoing support of the institute and the industry.
Supply Co., Inc.
46 February 2018
Richemont owns several of the world’s leading luxury companies in the field of luxury goods, with particular strengths in jewelry, luxury watches and other luxury accessories.
We are seeking talented and qualified Watchmakers to work for our brands located throughout the United States and Canada in our Boutiques and Service Centers.
Responsibilities
Must be qualified to perform services which include Complete Maintenance and Quick Services on calibers that include o Quartz o Mechanical o Automatic o Chronograph o Complications Diagnosis Case Preparation Achieve and maintain Production and Quality Objectives
Qualifications
Accredited Certification Experience working with luxury brands preferred Strong attention to detail, with the ability to handle multiple tasks Ability to work in a fast-paced environment Strong diagnostic skills Good customer service and communication skills Knowledge of SAP System would be a strong advantage
We offer competitive compensation, on-boarding program, benefits and relocation assistance. To be considered, please submit your resume and profile on www.Richemont.com or by fax to 817-283-2304. HT Feb_OL.indd 1 1/16/18 4:53 PM