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National WATS: 800-328-0205 In Minnesota: 800-392-0334 FAX: (612) 452-4298 Toll-Free FAX: 800-548-9304 VOLUME 15, NUMBER 6 JUNE 1991 A Technique HOROLOGICAL For Efficient Use of the Lathe 36

Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute ALICE B. CARPENTER 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE JOE CROOKS 6 BENCH TIPS Vibrating Arm For Those HENRY B. FRIED 8 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS Edouard Richard Pocket Watch Rough and FRED S. BURCKHARDT 16 ROCK QUARRY Saved by a Pendant Watch Worn HENRY B. FRIED 18 SELF-WINDING WATCHES DA TRON, Part 4 Pivots • • • ROBERT D. PORTER 24 HOW TO REPIVOT CLOCK WHEELS ON YOUR DRILL PRESS 42 JOHN A. NAGLE 28 HODGE PODGE LODGE A Means to an End JOHNPLEWES 30 CLOCKS INSIDE & OUT Cutting Glass for Clock Cases

RICHARD C. DREIBELBIS 34 TELECHRON 8851 TIMER J.M. HUCKABEE 36 TURNING BETWEEN CENTERS A Run-down ARCHIE B. PERKINS 42 TECHNICALLY WATCHES Antique Watch Restoration, Part L.XVI on Crystals MARSHALL F. RICHMOND 46 PICKLE BARREL 50 Flat or Bead Diamond Settings JAMES ADAMS 49 NOVICE WATCHMAKER Expand Your Skills WES DOOR 50 SHOPTALK Watch Crystal Management, Part 3 DEPARTMENTS

DAVID A. CHRISTIANSON 52 TIMELOCKS Up Front/4 Sargent & Greenleaf AWi Bench Courses/14 Timelock Movements, Part II Material Search Network/39 ROBERT L. MACOMBER 56 A JAPANESE CUCKOO Bulletln Board/40 Ask Huck/55 MIKE NEVILLE 60 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING AWi Project Extend/61 Oklahoma State University Association News/62 New Members/63 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the Am¢rican New Products/64 Watchmakers' Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for $40.00 per year ($4.50 News In the Trade/67 per copy in the United States and $50.00 per year; $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.). Second class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: .Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, Claeslfled Ads/68 P ~O. Box f1011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/72 Advertisers' lndex/72 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording), FAX: (513) 661-3131. George Daniels OHOROLOGICALr.J™ Henry B. Fried Josephine F. Hagans FELLOWS •Orville R. Hagans * * Harold J. Herman u Dc=JC3~ OF THE AMERICAN Gerald G. Jaeger EXECUTIVE AND EDrrORIAL OFFICES WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Robert A. Nelson •Hamilton E. Pease AWi Central Milton C. Stevens P.O. Box 11011 Marvin E. Whitney 3700 Harrison Avenue *DeceaMd Cincinnati. OH 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 Fox: (513) 661-3131

Milton C. Stevens: Co-Editor Michael P. Donner: Co-Editor IS ANYBODY OUT THERE LISTENING? Regino Stenger: Assoc/ate Editor Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor or those of us who were not at the Donna Boos: Production Director Fannual meeting in Cincinnati in June 1988, letmerecapareportgiven by Charles F. Jomes Lubic: Technical & Educational Barnes, Chairman of the Publicity and Public Services Manager Relations Committee. Margie M. Brofer: Circulation Manager It was noted that we needed a public Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager relations program to change the negative self­ Mory Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator image of watchmaking on a national level. The fact that the cost of a national advertising TECHNICAL EDITORS: campaign was prohibitive was also noted. The enterprising Publicity and Pub­ James Adams Wes Door lic Relations Committee members, along with Robert F. Bishop Henry B. Fried MiltSt:evens and Mike Danner, met with a Jomes H. Broughton Ewell D. Hortman public relations firm to talk about what was available that we could afford. Fred S. Burckhordt Robert A. Nelson They were given a proposal that would give us national exposure by using Charles Cleves Archie B. Perkins the talents of an experienced journalist who would research and write Steven G. Conover Marshall F. Richmond media articles and market them, and plan awards programs for members Joe Crooks Marvin E. Whitney and market them. All of this would be done under AWI control. It was decided that AWI would .prepare releases for members. A WI OFFICERS: Instructional articles on why and how to use these appeared in Horological Times. The articles were to educate and interest the public, to present Alice B. Carpenter. CMW, CMEW: President safety and human interest articles, and to give historical background. Wes Door, CMW: First Vice President The next report of the Publicity and Public Relations Committee Jomes Adams. CMW: Second Vice President came six months later at mid-year, February 1989. They reported that the Fred S. Burckhordt: Secretary advertising agency had been at work and had drafted several magazine Marvin E. Whitney. CMW, CMC. FAWI: Treasurer articles. One was titled "The Power of'I'ime," and another was "The Future of Time." A brochure was prepared titled "Care of the Modern Watch." A WI DIRECTORS: Several spots were prepared for suburban newspapers. Several articles were prepared for "fill-in" spots for local radio stations and also TV William Biederman, CMW stations. And these are good articles. I particularly liked the one titled Robert F. Bishop, CMEW "Watching Over Your Watch." (I wish some of my customers would read it!) Jomes H. Broughton, CMEW Copies of these and others were sent to AWI and were placed in Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW the packets of the board members. At the end of each, the advertisers Henry Frystak, CMW stated where and how many times the articles had been used and also how Ewell D. Hortman, CMW and where the radio spots had been used. Gerold G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI At a board meeting, Milt Stevens asked the board members if we Donald R. Lake had heard or read any of these. We were asked to ask our local guilds if Robert L. Macomber, CMC THEY had heard or read any of these. To date, he has only had three people Marshall F. Richmond, CMW to respond. Why have no others responded to the request to Jet AWI know if Poul D. Wadsworth: Affiliate Chapter Director they have heard any of the radio spots or read any of the articles? Arnold Van Tiem: REC Director We really need your input. We need to know whether we are Robert F. Bishop, CMEW: Immediate reaching our objectives. To do that, we need to know if the radio and TV Past President spots are being seen and if the articles are being read. Drop us a note to let us know ... ifanybody out there is listening! Milton C. Stevens, FA WI: Executive Secretary Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director

Reprinting and reproduction IS prohibited without permission from the American Watchmakers lnstl­ Me. Copyrlght©1991 by the American Watch­ makers Institute. ON THE FRONT: Jack Goldstein, a new member of AWi, sent us this.slide of Long Island Beach, New Jersey. Mr. Goldstein is a resident of Cranford, New Jersey. Last month's front cover of the azaleas ("Springtime in Virginia") by Josephine Hagans 2 Horological Times/June 1991 was taken on the campus of Sweet Briar College in Sweet Briar, Virginia. JANICE WILLIAMS Senior Technical Assistant Janice Williams came to mechanical. Her current ages 8 and 6 - plus sew­ Eveready Battery Company, Inc. Eveready 5 years ago with responsibilities include ing, bQwling and regular Technology Laboratory Westlake, Ohio a degree in Microbiology both. Outside of work, workouts at a gym near from Penn State and a love Janice's interests revolve the plant. for things scientific and around a son and daughter,

The attributes of Lithium vironment because moisture make it an important ele­ inhibits proper battery opera­ ment in current and future tions. Consequently, the Eveready® watch battery tech­ skilled hands of Janice nology. Its use has given a Williams and her team re­ new definition to the word ceive material from a "dry "care': Lithium must be room" and assemble experi­ handled in a totally dry en- mental batteries in a "dry

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FAXING TECHNICAL REQUESTS have to install another fax line and service fee of $5 for each request or the Many members are making good use of employ a clerk to do nothing but fax donation of a vintage watch movement the fax machine in their business opera­ responses. for the Movement Bank. Our purpose tions. It's quick to order material from Another good reason: Many was twofold: we wanted to keep the suppliers, and it's quick to request tech­ responses are multiple pages which take Movement Bank stocked with desirable nical information. AWI speeds up tech­ time to feed into the machine. Often the vintage movements, and we wanted to nicalrequestsitmustmakefrommanu­ information is in a book or some type of discourage members from routinely facturers when the requested informa­ bound or folded material. This has to be tion isn't on file by using the fax ma­ sending their material needs to us with­ chine. It eliminates about 10 days on photocopied so we can feed individual out having first attempting to locate the overseas requests and four or five days sheets into the machine. When this items themselves. Unfortunately, we are on domestic transactions. happens, you get a fax copy of a photo­ finding more and more members revert­ More and more members are copy, and often critical details are lost. ing to the latter situation of sending requesting that the response to their We are happy to return your their material order to us without hav­ technnical requests be faxed back to request by fax when the need is critical, ing attempted to place the order them­ them. This does have several drawbacks, provided the appropriate fee, which rovers selves. This is obvious because when we and therefore we have implemented the the phone call and the expense involved put the items out on the network, 60- following policy regarding responding in special handling, accompanies the 70% of the firms faxed have the item(s) to requests by fax: request. When the need is not critical, in stock. And these are the same people Minimum service charge $3 =1or2 pages you automatically have saved two or who routinely ignore the required fee, $5 service charge =S to 5 pages three days by faxing the request to us. even though details of how the service is 50 cents service charge for each page The quality of your copies will be far to be used has been published a number over5pages superior ifwe mail originals or one-time of times in Horological Times (see De­ copies to you. cember 1990 for the most recent expla­ nation). No responses will be returned by fax MOVEMENT BANK/ Up to now, we have not delayed unless appropriate Visa or MasterCard MATERIAL SEARCH NETWORK the search process pending receipt of charge information is given with the REQUESTS request. the fee. We have placed the member on Why the service charge for this The service provided by the Movement the honor system to send the fee or service? Mainly it is done to discourage Bank/Material Search Network was movement in. The problem has become the use of the return fax service when designed to assist members in finding critical; some routinely phone or fax the request is routine. If every member items they need after they have ex­ their needs to A WI just as they would with fax capabilities asked for every hausted all of their resources. Just as place an order with their material house. request to be returned by fax, we would with the fax service, we established a They make no provision for paying the fee required, and many items can rou­ tinely be found from conventional sources. A WI does not stock or sell material. We • Modular construction-power do attempt to help locate difficult-to­ generator. find items. • Field serviceable-solid state. Because this abuse has reached • High-reliability lead-zirconate the critical st.age, we will no longer process titanate transducers. a Movement Bank/Material Search • Quiet, efficient. Network request unless provision for • Self-tuning to match workload paying the fee is addressed when the and solution level. request is made. We will delay the proc­ • Steel cabinet with polyurethane ess until such provisions are made. finish for cleaning and durability. Members enhance their chance • Includes cover and free bottle of finding what they need if they will ultrasonic concentrate. supply parts numbers with their re­ Model #HTT1 .9C • 0-60 minute timer. quest. Members can avoid a delay if • Corrosion-resistant 1/2 gallon they will give charge card information Sale Priced $245.00 stainless steel tank. when they place their request by fax or with heat $275.00 • Dimensions 7"L x 7.S"W x 8"H. phone. Requests by mail should include a movement for the Movement Bank for each item requested, charge card infor­ mation, or a check for the appropriate amount. It is unfortunate that an in­ creasing number of members have abused this valuable service. D

4 Horological Times/June 1991 IONIC CLEANING IS HERE! SPEED BRITE IONIC SYSTEM

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June 1991/Horolof[ical Times S I r>enc.h Tips

Joe Crooks

Vibrating Arm

This tip ts from Mel Kaye of Short Hills, NJ. enced watchmakers was: "Yep, that's a real prob­ lem." I tried to assemble the parts holding the watch ere's a little technique I developed out of des­ upside-down. I suppose that it could be done that Hperation, trying to assemble an old Elgin way, but I couldn't do it. pocket watch. It is the "2nd model," manufactured in I finally arrived at this very simple solution: I 1894, according to the serial number. coated the two little set wheels with a tiny dab of a The setting wheels of this particular move­ sticky grease, and then put them in place on the ment are carried by a little bridge that swings back bridge. When the bridge was inverted for assembly and forth as it goes from the set mode to the winding into the watch, both wheels stayed right in place! mode. The problem is that the two wheels mount on In my opinion, that little bit of grease did no the underside of this bridge, and while the bridge is harm, and probably did some good, so I left it there. being inserted into the movement, the wheels fall off! This illustration is from an old Elgin parts The best comment I could get from expert- catalog that shows the setting wheel bridge in ques­ tion.

(Fi'i Precision u .. Mel, you must be a "new" watchmaker. The LfSJ Crystal Cutting Co. watch you are describing ts a 6 size Elgin, Model 2, Grade # 11 7. Elgin calls thfs bridge a vibrating arm. Illlnofs, HamUton, and Waltham call Lt a yoke. The "For All Your Watch Crystal Needs" Swiss call it (more appropriately) a rocking bar. Us "old-timers" call it a "wig-wag"for slang. How Elgin ever came up with the name "vi­ SAME DAY brating arm" ts .beyond me, but then Elgin did have some strange namesfor some watch parts. The dumb watchmaker who came up with SERVICE 'Yep, that's a real problem" didn't know what you were talking about ... or wasn't old enough to know SATISFACTION GUARANTEED ON ALL WORK himself. That little dab of grease you used didn't do Supplies of Expert Crystal Cutter much harm. Maybe it set up a wee bit offriction, but All Major Crystals With 10 yrs. Experience I doubt it. That would affect the timekeeping of the watch. LOWEST Mainspring oil wUl hold the winding wheels in place to assemble the bridge, but don't grease the Prices in the Country minute wheel. D

SHIP TO SEND YOUR TIPS TO: Precision Crystal Cutting Reference & Price List Jingle Joe 23940 Eureka On Request c/ o Horological Times Taylor, Ml 48180 P.O. Box llOll Cincinnati, OH 45211 (313) 287-3480 • FAX (313) 374-2927 (24 hrs.)

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Edouard Richard Pocket Watch

I am enclosing some pho­ I am hoping you can pro­ Q tos of a watch that a cus­ Q vide some information on tomer of mine brought in with many the watch shown in these photos. questions. The watch is in good I am looking for information such condition overall, with the excep­ as age, manufacturer, etc. Here is tion of a broken mainspring. The the information I've been able to name printed on the dial is "Ed­ find: ward Richard Lode." I made a D.D. NEVEREN - London drawing ofthe stamp on the inside Movement: 52mm diameter dustcover. The watch is 18Kgold. Case: 58mm diameter Stamped inside case is: s 9 ~8. 7- <&> ALLECHORT J lf- David S. Aalund Kingwood, Texas 19

Andrew Guentert Your watch, marked Edou­ Valparaiso, IN ard Richard, Locle, was A I have examined the photos made about 1880. It is a very nicely of your watch and have finished movement, with screwed­ A records of having examined three in goldjewel settings, isochronal, Breguet hairspring, and special spring stud. While Edouard Rich­ ard has no listing-due most likely CaseCo. ciffthen] 15MaidenLane). to being later than the (published The trademark ts of that company. book) for "antique watches"-! can The Dueber-Hampden has one judge that it ls of the 1880 period. similar but not exactly as the one The regulator patent of 1877 stamped 'in your case. The Shiebler ls very much that licensed by cases had the 18 or 14 straddling Agassiz and used in similar high­ the monogram as in yours. Due­ grade watches. ber's cases used a similar one but The watch case ts an Ameri­ instead cif the apparent "J" they can-made product of the Andrew had an anchor and used the mark R. Shiebler & Son (American Watch of gold:fllled cases.

8 Horological Times/June 1991 Borel Quartz Crown Assortmen Borel has assembled the 45 most common dustproof and waterproof types used on today's quartz watches, which SWISS require smaller sizes and taps. Includes diameters: 2.50, 2. 75, 3.00, 3.25, 3.50, 3. 75 and Taps 10, 11, 12 & 13 MADE This new updated assortment includes tap 13 sizes, more WP sizes and more tap 12 crowns than previous assort­ ment. 1 each yellow and white of 40 numbers, 60 bottle .Hnrcl plus 5 Blue Stone Crowns, yellow only. cabinet. Total of 85 Crowns, in 60 bottle cabinet. No other replacement crown approaches Borel Crown in quality, looks or effectiveness. Borel Crowns are ma~f by the top Swiss producer of crowns for new-watch production. Borel stocks the complete range Newly updated of sizes, styles, types, tap sizes, post lengths, and tube openings. You'll find exactly the crown you need. 751/2 Asst. sgo Design Tap10 Tap11 Tap12 Tap13 Dustproof Type 2.75mm • 652/10 652/11 652/12 3.00mm • 656/10 656/11 656/12 3.25mm • 660/10 660/11 660/12 660/13 3.50mm • 664/10 664/11 664/12 3.50mm • 666/10 666/11 Diameter Tube Post Design Tap10 Tap11 Tap12 Tap13 Waterproof Type 2.50mm 1.50mm Flush lliiiiiiib • 752/10 752/11 752/12 752/13 2.75mm 1.60mm Flush • 754/10 754/12 3.00mm 1.60mm Flush -a • 756/10 756/11 756/12 3.00mm 1.80mm Flush - • 758/10 3.25mm 1.80mm Flush llilID • 760/10 760/11 3.25mm 1.60mm Flush • 762/10 762/11 3.50mm 1.80mm Flush -llillill • 764/10 764/11 3.50mm 1.60mm Flush Giiiiilll 766/11 766/11 766/12 766/13 Assortment, now, includes 5 • Blue Stone Crowns DP 3.00, 3.50mm 2.00mm Flush OilID 768/10 768/11 768/12 3.50, 4.00 and WP 3.00, 3.50. • 3.75mm 1.60mm Flush miiiill • 770/10 770/11 Borel has put together this unique assortment of crowns styled as those used on the popular Japanese brand watches: Seiko, Japanese Pulsar, Lorus and Citizen. Includes 48 numbers, most of which are the waterproof type with gasket, diameters from 2.5mm to 5.5mm. Total 96 crowns, 1 each of yellow and white of 48 Style Crown numbers. Refills available. 60 bottle cabinets. Asst. Some of the numbers in the assortment are: J-32M29 J-506-2254 J-25N02 J-35E09 J-30E02 J-35M 10 J-40M 17 J-506-2614 J-40M32 J-45M30 J-50005 J-35003 J-35N57 951/2 Asst. sgg J-506-2847 J-40M24 J-45001 J-45W29 J-35M82 J-35M68 Jules Borel & Company, 1110 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64106 National Order Desk - 1 ·800·333·4646; FAX Order 1 ·800·333-4083 Borel & Frei, 712 South Olive, Los Angeles, CA 90014 .llttrel National Order Desk - 1 ·800·654·9591 .llttrel Otto Frei - Jules Borel, P.O. Box 796, Oakland, CA 94604 National Order Desk - 1·800·772-3456 watches .from Holland. Allechort Ulysse Nardln was.first ap­ QUESTIONS & ANSWERS prenticed to hisfather Leonard and (Continued.from previous page) was probably the casemaker-­ French, Dutch, or Flemish. I would later to the care of William Dubois, date this watch as the late 1 Bth considered to be the best watch­ century I early 19th century. maker of his time. In 1846 Ulysse established the firm which to this day still bears his name. Soon he Our family has kept a pock­ became known as a first-class Q et watch over the years from horologist, winning the "Prize one of our grandparents. I was Medal," the highest award given at hoping that our jeweler could give the Universal Exhibition in London us details about the history of this (1862). Hence, it was notlong until watch. However, he suggested that his deck, pocket, striking, and I write directly to you. complicated watches, along with The watch is a IBysse Nar­ pocket/ marine chronometers, be­ din Lode and Geneve; the move­ came not only well known in Swit­ ment number is: zerland, but also abroad. 657522 Shortly after the Swiss H6 government set standards of per­ The case number is 7 43752. On formance for the testing of marine the back of the watch is: chronometers at the Neuchatel Property of Corps of Engineers Observatory in 1868, the firm of U.S.A. Ulysse Nardin began submitting No. 5950 chronometers for trial, and imme­ Our questions probably are diately won the first two prizes. endless. But briefly, the questions Suddenly in 1876 Ulysse we were hoping that you could died, and the operation of thefirm answer are: 1) When was the watch jell on the shoulders of his son made? 2) Do you have a brief his­ Paul, age 20. He, like the other tory about the watch and manu­ members of thefamily, was a very facturer? 3) Is there any way of fine craftsman, and at the time of receiving more information about his father's death was working as the issue of the watch to the Corps a chronometerfinisher. n.vo months of Engineers? after the passing of his father, young Ray Anger Paul was awarded the Gold Medal Drexel Hill, PA at the International Timing and Adjusting Chronometer Competition Your letter to Mr. Fried was at Geneva. A forwarded to meas he ls [at When the war became the time of this printing] out of the imminent in 1940, the U.S. Navy country.

others by the same maker. While the watch has a London marking, nevertheless it ls obviously made in Holland. There were no English hallmarks as required by law at that time. The balance bridge use rather than the employing of a bal­ ance cock shows this to be of the dutch style. Neveren probably was a native of Holland who settled in London but probably brought his

10 Horological Times/June 1991 ' Here's ttie deal: buy l,QO Ma'clockmakers and col- as found on your watch. A tos [not shown] that the label This type qfwatch was used underneath the clock states that it by the Signal Corps, Corps ofEngi­ was made by Fred A. Wilson of neers, and the U.S. Navy. Those East 2nd Street in Brooklyn, NY. I that saw service with the Navy lived on East 2ndfor over 10 years were known as comparing, deck, up to 1950. Mr. Wilson's design or torpedo-boat watches. The Gov­ was never patented but registered ernment began purchasing these at the Patent Office. Therefore, there watches in 1905 and continued. to would be no patent for this ciga­ do so until about 1927, the great­ rette dispenser. Furthermore, it est quantity being purchased. dur­ appears that this was to be merely ing the war years (1914-1918). a reminder to the user when and During my tenure at the U.S. Naval how often he desired to smoke. Observatory in the early 1940s, a There is no slot for a coin which few of these watches came infor would release the cigarette. repairs. In my opinion, this was a It is very doubtful that the pilot model, and from the photos, Corps ofEngineers could shed any appears to be one-cif-a-kind and additional light on your watch. While rather interesting. A search through doing research work on my book three volumes on horological pat­ Military Timepieces, which is near entsfails to reveal anything by this completion, Ifound it nearly impos­ Clock is 12-1/2' at base, 15' tall, has a New inventor or such a clock. · sible to find anyone or material in Haven dial, balance wheel 'time only' move­ Henry B. Fried ment, no marks. Note the two levers at lower front the various service branches and/ and the tray on the side. D

12 Horological TUn.es/June 1991 _9l(cfi

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June 1991/Horological Times 13 AWi BENCH COURSES

JULY 1991 FEBRUARY 1992 7 Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair--Orlando, FL 16 Intro to Quartz Watch Repair--Albuquerque, NM 13-14 400-Day Clock Repair--Buffalo, NY 22-23 400-Day Clock Repair--Albuquerque, NM 20-21 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair--Minneapolis, MN 22-23 Cuckoo Clock Repair--Orlando, FL 20-21 Repair of the Atmos Clock--Rapid City, SD 23 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair-­ 21 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair--Den­ Ellisville, MS ver, CO 23 Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--San Diego, CA 27-2B 400-Day Clock Repair--Nashville, TN MARCH1992 AUGUST1991 29 Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Bay Area, CA 16-18 Intro to Clock Repair--Atlanta, GA 17-18 Repair of the Atmos Clock--Kansas City, MO 17-18 400-Day Clock Repair--Boston, MA 17-18 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair--Indianapolis, IN 18 Intro to Quartz Watch Repair--Salt Lake City, UT COURSES AND INSTRUCTORS 18 Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Rochester, NY 18 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair--Mil­ Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair waukee, WI Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW 24-25 400-Day Clock Repair--Scranton, PA Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Robert Bishop, CMEW SEPTEMBER 1991 & 15 Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Pittsburgh, PA Retrofitting, Casing Coil Repair 15 Intro to Quartz Watch Repair--Minneapolis, MN James Broughton, CMEW 14-15 400-Day Clock Repair--Denver, CO Introduction to Clock Repair 21-22 Repair of the Atmos Clock--Salt Lake City, UT James Lubic 22 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair--Port­ Advanced Clock Repair land, OR Roland Iverson, CMC 'lB-29 400-Day Clock Repair--San Diego, CA Repair of the Atmos Clock Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI OCTOBER 1991 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair 5-6 400-Day Clock Repair--Richmond, VA James Adams, CMW, FBHI 18-20 Intro to Clock Repair--Marquett, MI Introduction to the Watchmaker's Lathe 19-20 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair--Denver, CO 20 Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Minneapolis, James Lubic MN Cuckoo Clock Repair 20 Useful Techniques:Mechanical Watch Repair--Boston, James Williams MA 400-Day Clock RJ!pair 20 Intro to Quartz.Watch Repair--Kansas City, MO John A: Nagle ETA Quartz Chronograph NOVEMBER 1991 James Broughton, CMEW 9-10 400-Day Clock Repair--Charlotte, NC 9-10 Repair of the Atmos Clock--Houston, TX 10 Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Atlanta, GA 10 Intro to Quartz Watch Repair--Oklahoma City, OK 16-17 Cuckoo Clock Repair--Albuquerque, NM 16-17 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair--Boston, MA To register for these course~, please send along with 16-17 Intro to the Watchmaker's Lathe--Kansas City, MO your request a registration fee of$25 per instruction 30-Dec.1-400-Day Clock Repair--Savannah, GA day (for A WI members) to: A WI Central, P.O. Box JANUARY 1992 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211.PLEASENOTE:Reg­ 19 Intro to Quartz Watch Repair--Atlanta, GA istrations are limited and will be selected by the 19 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair-­ earliest postmarks. You may register by Fax if you Albuquerque, NM 25-26 Cuckoo Clock Repair--Phoenix, AZ wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard 25-26 400-Day Clock Repair--Austin, TX number, card expiration date, and signature. FAX: 26 Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Phoenix, AZ (513) 661-3131; INFORMATION: (513) 661-:}838.

14 Horological Times/June 1991 Cartier, Breitling, Omega, Ulysse N ardin, Zenith, Dunhill, Vacheron Constantin, Rolex and every other watch of quality manufacture in the World ...

are shown in detail, discussed in depth and 1 presented in a full color glossy bi,monthly magazine for the Watch Industry, Collector, ~nd Enthusiast. Subscribe now and get your first issue FREE

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Fred S. Burckhardt

Saved by a Pendant Watch

t's always nice to hear from old friends. The other watch that had belonged to her mother. When the Chief saw it I day as I was taking inventory of hairspring stud pins, he took it off her neck and held it up to his ear. Delilah saw who came walking in my shop but my pal Alfonso Schemmer­ her chance and told the Chief if he would untie her she would horn. Many years have passed since we worked together in a show him how it worked. He told one of the braves to cut her little shop in Madagascar. After the usual greetings, we started loose. She went over to the Chief, took the watch from his to talk about the old times. hand, and opened the back so he could see the balance wheel Alf was always a cutup. I reminded him of the time oscillate. He was fascinated by what he saw. Delilah promised he found an old oil lamp clock at the bazaar. He really liked to show him how to take it apart if he would free her. The the thing and kept it burning all day long. Everything was fine Chief said okay. until one day he ran out of oil. Being impatient, he decided to It took almost a year before the Chief became adept fill it with gasoline. Then he lit a match and touched it to the at taking the watch apart and putting it together again. During wick. That sucker took off like a rocket, circled the room four this period, the Chief and Delilah became very fond of each times, and then smacked one of the clockmakers in the fore­ other. But then the day came when Delilah had to leave. She head, imprinting the hours from one ear to the other. Alf told gave the Chief the watch as a keepsake. To honor her, he me the guy is now traveling with a carnival as a human sun­ changed his name to Chief Stemwinder. dial. He only works when the sun shines. He lays his head You're probably thinking this is the end of the story, back, sticks a cigarette in his mouth, and his companion calls but it isn't. Delilah made her way west to California and be­ out the time. came the best woman watchmaker in the West. But the Chief Alf came from a long line of horologists. Probably missed his chance at fame. Let me tell you how it happened. the most famous was his uncle, lsse/bach Dinglehammer. I'm One day all the Indian Chiefs had a pow-wow. They sure many of you recognize the name. He was the one who de­ discussed the possibility of all meeting to defend their land signed the stem with the twisted square. I spent many an hour from the dreaded "Golden Hair," better known as Custer. trying to straighten them out before I was told they were sup­ Their plan called for them to meet at the riverbank in two posed to be like that. moons. Chief Stemwinder returned to his camp and repaired Of all the stories about Alf's relatives, the one I liked all the watches and clocks he could find, which weren't too the most was about his uncle's grandmother, Delilah Dingle­ many. Not only did he not watch the moon's passing, he for­ hammer. She came to this country as a young girl and decided got where the tribes were going to meet. to head west. In order to make enough money to catch a There's no sense in going into the story of what wagon train, she worked in a watch repair shop. Fortunately happened to Custer and his men. What is important is what for her, her father insisted all his children learn the trade. Any­ happened to Chief Stemwinder. For three years he and his way, when she made enough money, she packed up her stuff, braves waited at Big Little-horn which was several miles away threw it in a wagon, and joined the first train west. After sev­ from that other place. eral months they started to pass through Indian territory. Fighting the Indians became a daily occurrence. In two weeks' time, many of the men had been picked off. * * * Then it happened: Delilah was captured, along with several of the other women. They were tied with rope and After reminiscing with me most of the day, Alf had made to walk behind the horses-very carefully, I might add. to leave. He was on his way to a new job. It seems he received When they reached the Indian camp they were tied to stakes a grant of three million dollars from the government to see if and made to stand in the hot sun. he could teach spider monkeys to make balance staffs in a The next day the Chief came out of his tepee and k~ I walked over to the women. This is where a twist of fate en­ As for me, I'm heading down to the carnival. They ters the picture. Delilah happened to be wearing a pendant advertised some joker called the "Human Sundial. " O 16 Horological Times/June 1991 . - . ~ STEEL $3,000 - $6,500 i STEEL & 14K $2,500 - $4,500 - 14K $5,500 - $6,500 18K $6,500 - $7,500 EXACT PRICE DEPENDS ON DIAL & CONDITION ' ' . WANTED - RO LEX PARTS ~ CALL DON MEYER _. DIALS, CROWNS, BEZELS, NEW CRYSTALS ~ 1·800·833·315 9 ' VINTAGE TIMEPIECES WORLDWIDE CASES, MOVEMENTS, PARTS 12900 PRESTON ROAD, SUITE 500 DALLAS, TX 75230 214/392-4281 - BANDS· & BRACELETS - FAX 214/392-4283 ALL WATCHES ARE GUARANTEED TO BE PAID BROKEN, COMPLETE OR NEW OLD STOCK FOR THE SAME DAY AS RECEIVED BY CASH, CASHIER'S CHECK, BANK WIRE OR CHECK. SS • S&G 14K • S&G 18K • 14K • 18K BANK REFERENCE: NORTH DAUAS BANK, MILDRED DUNCAN, VP 214/387-1300 - SHIPPING INSTRUCTIONS - •Polk securely and shi11_ via federal Expms, UPS (red or blue only) or Post OlfKe by Expi~ or Registered Mlil. Please indude ~ phone number end w Will cal yCHJ upoa t?ceipl lo finofize a. price. 99% of our offers are ace led.

June 1991/Horological Times 17 SELF-WINDING WATCHES

Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC

DATRON: Movado's Self-Winding, 36,000 VPH Chronograph-Calendar PART 4 (Conclusion)

igure 41: 10. Replace the detent spring (445) long and 953/4-short); then set the longest of the screws Fand the tube for the detent spring (445/1) which at the 2 o'clock position and the shortest at the 4 o'clock fixes the hour hammer spring (8730). position as seen from the movement side. 11. Grease the pivoting points of the following 16. Now secure the bolt screws (5934).17. Place parts and then set them in place: setting wheel for the watch on the timing machine and regulate. 18. Oil minute wheel (451), minute wheel (260), minute wheel the friction spring for the chronograph runner (8290). bridge (462). Then fasten the screws. The long screw Figure 43: 19. Fit the blocking lever (8200), must be placed in the tube for the detent spring (445/1). grease it with Syntax, and fasten its screw. 20. Fit in the 12. Test the three functions of the detent. 13. sliding gear (8100). Do not oil its pivots or the pivots of Test the freedom of the train. the sliding gear. However, the support pin which works Figure 42: In the movement, reassemble the with the sliding gear must be lubricated with Syntax. pallet fork (710), the pallet bridge (125), the balance 21. Replace the minu te-recordingrunner (8020) (721), and the balance bridge (121/3). Remember to oil and the minute-recordingjumper (8270)--do not oil its the jewels of the shock absorber. Do not oil the pallet pivots. Fit the chronograph runner (8000); its long jewels! pivot must be lubricated using Synta-Lube. Slightly 15. Slightly loosen the bolt screws (5934). Grease grease the friction point of the jumper against the teeth the working surfaces of the extension pushers (953/2- of the minute-recording runner (8020).

Figure 41 Figure 42

18 Horological Times/June 1991 Figure 43 Figure 44

22. Insert the pawl winding wheel (1488), but the chronograph hammer (peens) that contact the hearts; first oil its lower pivot and the pivot of the saw-tooth hammer support against the sliding gear; slot of the wheels with Synta-Lube. 23. Fit in the chronograph hammer which works with the pin of the blocking lever; hammer (8220) and grease its post. support of the flyback lever (see Figure 44) against the 24. Grease the following: frictional surfaces of hammer.

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June 1991/Horological Times 19 Figure 44: 25. Replace the chronograph bridge (8500) flyback lever (8180) and grease its collet. Also greasethe and fasten its screws. 26. Grease the post of the pillar underside and top of this lever where it contacts the wheel (8070); replace it and secure its screw. 27. Insert bridge and the operating lever. Use Syntax lubricant the sole for the pillar wheel jumper (8358). 28. Having here. greased the underside of the switch (8640) and its stud Figure 45: 31. Replace and secure the screws of with Syntax lubricant, replace both pieces. the following parts: the operating lever (8140)--grease 29. Put in the sliding gear spring (8345) and its screw (58140) and its bearing shoulder, the pillar fasten its screw. This spring goes around the banking wheeljumper (8355), the operating lever spring (8335), eccentric for the coupling clutch (8401). 30. Replace the and the hammer spring (8350). 32. Use Syntax to grease the following: the Figure 45 support of the hammer spring on the hammer and the function between the pillar wheel jumper and the pillar wheel; the support of the operating lever spring against the stud of the operating lever hook; and the support of the operating lever hook on the bridge using Syntax lubricant. 33. Replace the coupling clutch (8080) and se­ cure its maintaining screw (58080). Set the coupling clutch spring (8320) and fasten its screw, greasing the parts of the coupling clutch in contact with the main­ taining screw and the spring. Figure 46 (also refer to Figure 45): 34. Replace the driving wheel (8060). 35. Oil the upper pivot of the pawl winding wheel (1488) and the chronograph runner (8000). 36. Grease the pivoting point of the reduction gear (1481). 37. Fit the reduction gear (1481). Slightly loosen the reduction gear bolt screw (51525) and then push the bolt (1525) towards the reduction gear and refasten the screw (51525).

CHRONOGRAPH MECHANISM 38. Depthing the chronograph gears: Check the driving wheel (8060) and its meshing with the coupling wheel which is pivoted in the coupling clutch (8080). Also check the coupling wheel's engagement with the

Figure 47 Figure 46

20 Horological Times/June 1991 chronograph runner (8000) shown in Figure 45. Figure 25 (Horological Times,April 1991 issue, page 25) shows how the eccentrics (8400) and (8401) can • ! be adjusted to bring about the correct depthing between these wheels. Function of the chronograph finger: Depthing the chronograph finger in the wheel of the sliding gear ~t/oe~f!!Yj (8100), Figure 31 (Horological Times, May 1991 issue, page 55) can be regulated by acting on the eccentric Wholesale Jeweler & Watchmaker Supplies · (8406) shown in Figure 25. 456 West Columbus Drive Function of the hammer (8220), Figure 43: When the return to zero is accomplished, the hammer Tampa, Florida 33602 must lock the heart of the chronograph runner, but it must not completely block the minute-recording runner DUSTGUNZZ heart (8020). There must be a slight angular shake. Figure47: 39. Replace the hour hammer (8680) Remove dust, lint, and foreign and the endshake screw (58680). Using Syntax lubri­ particles from watches and delicate cant, grease the support of the hammer on the plate, the devises with a burst of this dry, inert hammer head (peen), the parts of the hammer which gas. Reaches the most remote touch the hour hammer spring (8730), and the end­ areas and leaves no residue. Best of shakescrew (58680). 40. Set the conveyor (8610) in place all, this canned air is safe for the and fasten its pivoting screw (58610) and the endshake ozone. Our Price screw (58610/1) previously greased. Lubricate the fit­ ting of the conveyor wheels. Set the conveyor spring #234.555 $6.'S (8720) in place and fasten its screw. Grease the support <:::> of this spring against the conveyor. List Price $8.95 Dust Gun 22 41. Put in the release lever spring of the date indicator (2633). 42. Replace the friction spring for the m hour-recording runner (8760) and grease its support on the hour-recording runner (8600) using Syntax lubri­ cant. 43. Oil the two pivots of the hour-recording runner and put it in. 44. Set in place the hour recorder Shipped according to D.O. T. regulations. bridge (8620) and fasten its screws. 45. Be certain that the hour hammer, conveyor, and hour-recording run- YELLOW SCREW LUG

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June 1991/Horological Times 21 Figure 49 Figure 50

ner are absolutely free and verify the functioning of the corrector screw and secure it. 56. Replace the hour hour recorder. wheel (255) and slightly grease its fitting on the cannon pinion. CENTER WHEEL FRICTION Figure 50: 57. Check the instantaneous calen­ Figures 48 and 49: 46. Grease the friction dar change mechanism. 58. Check the working of the between the center wheel (206) and the cannon pinion quick date setting. 59. Replace the dial and secure it. 60. (245), and set the cannon pinion in place taking care not Insert the hour and minute hands, making certain that to mar the minute wheel teeth. 47. After greasing its the date jumps at midnight. pivoting point, replace the release lever of the date 61. Replace the second hand and the hour­ indicator (2632) and fasten the screw. recording hands. 62. Replace the chronograph hand. 48. Repla~ the release lever spring of the date The chronograph hand must be driven on very tightly. indicator (2633) and grease its support against the pin Support the pivot during this replacement. of the release lever. Also grease the sides of the release 63. Remove the stem (401) and case up the lever which contact the date finger (2552), using the movement. 64. Replace the casing clamps (166) loosely lubricant shown. threading the screws (5166) into the plate. 65. Put the 49. Insert the date jumper (2576) after having winding stem (401) in place, center the movement, and greased its pivoting point. Fasten the endshake screw then fasten the casing clamp screws (5166). (52576) and grease its contact point with the jumper. 66. Where three-piece cases are concerned, fit 50. Replace the bolt of the date indicator (2576/ the bezel. 67. Lubricate the ball bearing of the oscillat­ 2) after greasing its pivoting point with the same lubri­ ing weight (1143) as indicated. Set it into the movement cant (Syntax), then fasten its screw. and fasten the oscillating weight screws. 68. Check the 51. Replace the date jumper spring (2575); grease freedom of the oscillating weight and the functioning of its support against the date jumper and fasten its screw. the automatic winding. 52. First grease the pivoting points of the following pieces, then replace them: date indicator driving wheel FINAL CONTROL CHECK LIST (2556), date finger (2552), and double calendar setting Check: a. the manual winding; b. hand setting wheel (2542). Then fasten their screws. and instantaneous calendar jump; c. quick date sett ing; 53. Fit in the date indicator (2557) and secure d. starting a:nd stopping the chronograph hand; e. the four endshak.e screws (52557). Under no circum­ return to zero of the three hands; and f. jump of the stances should the date indicator be oiled. minute-recording hand. 54. Check the freedom of the date indicator (2557). 55. Replace the pinion (2544/1) and the date This concludes the series on the Datron: Mova.po 's Self­ corrector (2566/1). Then oil the shoulder of the date Winding Chronograph Calendar. O

22 Horological Times/June 1991 OBITUARY EDWIN H. PARKHURST, JR. YOUNG-NEAL COMPANY, Edwin H. (Ned) Parkhurst, Jr. died at his residence in INC. Lancaster, PA on April 12, 1991. Mr. Parkhurst had been ill for some time; he was 79 years of age. 1838 Elm Hill Pike, #116 An avid collector of timepieces, Mr. Parkhurst served as President of the NAWCC 1971-73. He became Nashville, TN 37210 interested in sponsoring a student at the Bowman Techni­ cal School in Lancaster, PA; this interest in the school INFORMATION ORDERS: $10 Minimum eventually caused him to purchase the school in 1964 after (615) 889-0060 (800) 251-8580 the death of Charles Bowman. Mr. Parkhurst had oper­ ated the school ever since. & Parkhurst became interested in AWI in its early We accept MasterCard Visa days and served as Chairman of the A WI Research and Education Council. During this time he teamed with Ha­ Selling only rold Herman and presented a program designed to help watchmakers improve their efficiency, productivity, and EVEREADY WATCH CELLS profits. at competitive prices! Mr. Parkhurst's profession was that of a mechani­ cal engineer, and he held patents in engineering. He was a native of Oeveland, Ohio, and began his career in 1933 in the designing department of the Auburn and Cord Motor Our Crystal Fitting Services Company and the White Motor Company. In 1939 he Are the Very Best. founded Park Manufacturing Company, Inc. in Cleveland where he designed and manufactured hydraulic brakes Offering in Most Cases Same Day for truck trailers. Edwin Parkhurst, Jr. is survived by his wife Melanie Service. If You Haven't L. Ruffins Parkhurst of Lancaster, PA. Also surviving are 'fried Us, You Should. a daughter, son, stepson, six grandchildren, and a sister.

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June 1991/Horological Times 23 HOW TO REPIVOT CL.OCK WHEELS ON YOUR DRILL PRESS By Robert D. Porter, CMW ©1991. All rights reserved by the author.

orn pivots are encountered on nearly every Figure 2 Wclock repair job. Figure 1 illustrates a typical pivot condition. If the pivot is not too badly worn, it can be restored by grinding and polishing. Badly worn pivots must be replaced. The worn pivot on this wheel has been removed by grinding in Figure 2. Figure 3 shows the use of a simple drillingjig to drill a hole into the end of the arbor so that a new pivot can be pressed in. Figure 4 is a view of the drill at work through the bushing and into the end of the arbor, to a depth of about a quarter inch. The wheel must be sup­ ported in a manner that is square to the pivot drill. It is also important to use plenty of oil to lubricate and cool the drill, and to remove the drill from the work often to remove chips. Figure 5 is a sketch of the drill bushing and how the 60-degree cone (formed with a center drill) centers the work for drilling. The hole we have just produced in the end of the Figure3

Figure 1

24 Horological Times/June 1991 SA VE $4.55 on ARY SPECTACLE LOUPE

Easily adjustable ta any frame, thick, thin, round or modern. Completely eliminates distracting side lights. The four holding clamps are rubber covered and easily bent to fit any Figure4 ~::~;~i~;c;;;'.~~a. ll~ · l ·i .9.~t...... ················ SALE s334Q

1492A/1 1/2R 1492A/1 1/2L 7X 1 Yl" 1492A/2R 1492A/2L 5X 2" Figure 5 1492A/2 1 /2R 1492A/2 1/2L 4X 2Y2" 1492A/3R 1492A/3L 3.3X . 3" 1492A/3 1/2R 1492A/3 1/2L 3X 3Y2" 1492A/4R 1492A/4L 2.5X 4" The Finest! 1OX TRIPLET DIAMOND LOUPE REG. $25.00 s199s Designed to provide large clear field of vision. l 8mm lens. Metal body. Leather case. EL-961-Black EL-963 Chrome EL-965 Yellow TOLEDO JEWELERS 245 Twenty Third Street Toledo,OH 43624 Sale ends June 30, 1991. 24 Hour Toll Free Ordering 1 800 537-0260 Order Now... Fax (419) 241-4594

June 1991/Horological Times 25 Figure 7

Figure 6 The drill bushing holder is made from 3/4" thick aluminum and is 4-1/4" long by 1-1/2" wide. The thick­ ness of the front portion is 1/4". The hole for the drill arbor is shown in Figure 6. The wheel has been cleaned bushing is threaded 1/2-20. It is important that the and is ready for its new pivot. bushing holder be clamped in position to the base while A new pivot that is 0 .002" (0.05 mm) larger than the 0.5005" post hole is drilled and reamed through both the drill used to drill the hole has been turned on a pieces to assure parallelism and squareness between watchmaker's lathe in Figure 7 and is being tested for components. The post is epoxied to the base. The bush­ fit to the arbor. A slight taper was turned on that portion ing holder should be a smooth sliding fit to the post. of the pivot that goes into the arbor so that an effective The lock screw is made from brass with a 1/4-20 press fit can be achieved. thread by 3/4" long. The knurled part is 7/8" in diame­ The new pivot has been tapped into the arbor ter by 1/4" wide. with a brass-headed hammer in Figure 8 to complete the The drill bushings are made of 5/8" diameter oil job. The wheel is now ready to go back into the clock. or water hardening drill rod, 1/2" overall length, threaded Figure 9 is a sketch of the drill jig. The dimen­ 1/2-20 x 5/16" long. The 5/8" diameter edge of the sions are as follows: bushing can be knurled for easy assembly and removal. The base is a piece of3" wide x 6" longx 3/4" thick Three sizes of plain type American standard aluminum. The top and bottom surfaces must be paral­ combined drill and countersink (commonly called cen- lel. The vertical post is a piece of 1/2" diameter drill rod 6" long.

Figure 9 Figure 8

26 Horological Times/June 1991 ter drills) are recommended to form the 60-degree cen­ tering cone: SALE!

Size Body Drill Drill Overall SALE! QUARTZ MOVEMENTS Dia. Dia. Length Length #l 1/8" 3/64" 3/64" 1-1/4" Y481 Y482 2035 2025 6-3/4x8 #2 3/16" 5/64" 5/64" 1-7/8" 6-3/4x8 6-3/4x8 6-3/4x8 #3 1/4" 7/64" 7/64" 2" $6.95 $6.95 $7.75 $7.75

Y588 V237 V238 3N20 Typically, while the drill bushing is being tnachined in 5-l/2x6-3/4 5-l/2x6-3/4 5-1/2x6-3/4 5-1/2x6-3/4 the lathe, the countersink drill is used first to form the $9.50 $9.00 $9.25 $9.95 centering cone. It is then replaced with a twist drill of the desired size to complete the hole through the bush­ 2Y51 FE6320 FE6820 PUW500 ing. This assures concentricity between the cone and 5-l/2x6-3/4 6-3/4x8 5-1/2x6-3/4 5-1/2x6-3/4 the pivot drill hole. The bushing should not be removed $9.95 $6.75 $9.95 $9.95 from the lathe (cut oft) until all machining operations are complete. PUW510 PUW211 202.001 280.002 The smallest pivot twist drill that can be used 5-1/2x6-3/4 3-3/4x6 3-3/4x8-3/4 3-3/4x6-3/4 with a #l countersink, for example, is 3/64" (0.0469", $9.95 $26.95 $21.50 $22.95 1.191mm). Try a machinist supply house for center and 578.004 561.001 561.101 PC21A twist drills ifyour regular supplier does not stock them. 5-1/2x6-3/4 6-3/4x8 6-3/4x8 6-3/4x8 Some fractional inch and number size drills in $9.75 $9.50 $9.50 $11.95 a useful range for this device include: We carry a complete line of: ETA, Pulsar, Miyota, FE, ISA, PUW, Seiko, Harley, Ronda, Rernex, Orient, Morioka, Shiojiri, DRILL DECIMAL MM Citizen, Ebosa (Blue Bird), etc. SIZE INCH 3/64. 0.0469 1.191 55 0.0520 1.321 "ROLEX" STYLE CROWNS 54 0.0550 1.397 53 0.0595 1.511 9 1/16. 0.0625 1.588 SIZE. 4.5 mm SALE:each $2. ~. 52 0.0635 1.613 5 •5 mm T 51 0.0670 1.702 6.0 mm 18 PC Asst: 50 0.0700 1.778 7.0 mm (2 PC each size & color 49 0.0730 1.854 Asst.# RTC18 -- $44.95 48 0.0760 1.930 I 5/64. 0.0781 1.984 47 0.0785 1.994 4 SIZES NOW OFFERED (Yellow & White) 46 0.0810 2.057 45 0.0820 2.083 44 0.0860 2.184 SLIDING CLASP SIS ...... $2.50 ea. 43 0.0890 2.261 Yellow ...... $3.00 ea. 42 0.0935 2.375 18 PC Assortment: 3/32. 0.0938 2.383 ••,\& ~:;i~!\J (2 pc. each size and color) 41 0.0960 2.438 Ass't #SC18 .... $34.95 40 0.0980 2.489 39 0.0995 2.527 Color: Yellow/ Stainless Steel 2.578 38 0.1015 Size: 6, 7, 12, 15 mm 37 0.1040 2.642 36 0.1065 2.705 7/64. 0.1094 2.779 35 0.1100 2.794 34 0.1110 2.819 SONG'S TRADING & 33 0.1130 2.870 32 0.1160 2.946 SUPPLY COMPANY 31 0.1200 3.048 1/8. 0.1250 3.175 Information & Inquiries: (213) 622-3966 30 0.1285 3.264 Fax: (213) 622-3018 *Suggested drill buslllng starter set. 404 W. 7th St., Suite 203 Los Angeles, CA 90014 The shank end of twist drills can also be used NATIONWIDE TOLL-FREE: to make replacement pivots when odd sizes are needed. When precisely made and used oorrectly within 1-800-441-1042 its useful range, this device will be found to make pivot TEXAS BRANCH OFFICE replacement an easy task. D TEXAS ONLY 1-800-927-7664

June 1991/Horological Times 21 G{]@[Q)@~ [¥)@@@~ [b@[Q)@~

John A. Nagle

A Means to an End A Different Method of Repivoting

n extremely worn or broken pivot often sends mined the length of steel that would be needed. Ashockwaves through many timid clock repair­ After facing off the end of the pivot wire, I men who haven't practiced their lathework. Imagine turned a slot in it (Figure 2). This will enable you to snap how they must feel when they run into a situation off wire after you have soldered it to the arbor. pictured in Figure 1. It can be an interesting situation, As with repivoting, brazing or silver soldering and can become even more interesting if proper proce­ has been well covered in the past, especially in back dures are not followed. issues of the Horological Times (see "Hodge Podge It is very important that the arbor be firmly Lodge," October 1988). It is a fairly simple procedure held. Our situation also requires some form of support and is an easily developed skill. This is how I went about since we are holding this assembly by the pivot. You it: could remove the wheel and get a more solid positioning I set the wheel in an asbestos block. I had drilled of the arbor. This would be necessary ifboth pivots were a hole into the block to allow room for the arbor so that worn or broken. the block supported the surface of the wheel. It is very Much has been written on repivoting and I don't important in soldering to properly heat the item. You do intend to discuss the actual procedures in this article. I not want to hold it in a vise or set it on a bench block, will, however, throw in a tip on locating center. After because the heat is absorbed by these items, and it facing off the end of the arbor, run the lathe in reverse, makes soldering more difficult, if not impossible. You and bring your very sharp, pointed graver to the center also want to be sure that the surface to be soldered is free of the arbor from the opposite side of the lathe bed. This of grease, oil, etc., and is clean. In this case you want the allows you to view the whole surface area and gives you arbor and the piece of pivot wire to be clean. You can use a better chance of picking up the center. You only want steel wool, fibre glass brush, or grit pads to clean the tc,cut a light dot that can be picked up by a small drill. pieces to be soldered. After cutting my center point, I check to see if my mark Apply flux to both surfaces. This prevents oxida­ is true by placing the point of a needle into the center tion while soldering. I use Dandix Flux and get pretty point while the lathe is running. If the needle point good results. After flux is applied I add a piece of silver appears stationary, fine; your mark is on center. solder Gust a little square; you don't need much). Occasionally, despite your best efforts, the hole Now line up the arbor with the piece of pivot is going to be off-center after drilling. This recently wire. You can use a third hand or hold it with a pair of happened to me. Sometimes you can bore out the hole to tweezers. Figure 3 illustrates our setup. get a centered hole ready to receive a new pivot. Unfor­ Using an acetylene torch, I evenly applied heat tunately in this particular instance the wall of the arbor until solder flowed. I then removed the flame and waited would have been so thin that I didn't feel comfortable for the piece to cool. I cleaned the piece in a soapy water/ installing a new pivot into it. I was faced with the job of ammonia solution and let it dry. As with soft-soldering, making a new arbor. it is important to clean the soldered item to prevent As I was sitting there looking at this off-center future corrosion. hole, I decided to try a short cut. Those of you who read Sinceweuseanoversizedpieceofsteel we didn't my articles know I like to use silver solder, and this have to be too fussy about our positioning. Chuck up the situation gave me another chance. i started by facing off pivot in the lathe, use some form of arbor support, and the end ofthe arbor to remove·any burrs produced by the snap off the pivot wire. It is an easy job to turn down the previous drilling. I then selected a piece of pivot rod that oversized arbor to correct size. Cut and polish your was a good deal larger than the arbor. Then I deter- pivot, and your job is finished. It requires very close in-

28 Horological Times/June 1991 spection to see the repair. It is a strong fit and you have a repair in which you have maintained the original parts, which is always the way to do it!

Figure 3. Wheel set up Figure 1. Chewed-up pivot. to be soldered.

Figure 2. Pivot wire prepared for soldering.

0

FOUNTAIN PENS WANTED I WISH TO PURCHASE PENS BY PARKER & WATERMAN WITH FILIGREE METAL OVERLAY & MOTHER OF PEARL INLAY MADE BETWEEN 1900-1930 ALONG WITH OTHER HIGH-GRADE UN­ USUAL OLDER PENS. PENS MUST BE IN EXCELLENT CONDITION FREE OF CRACKS & DENTS FOR THESE PRICES. DAMAGED PENS ALSO WANTED ALONG WITH PARTIAL PENS AT LOWER PRICES. ISP!>

PAYING $7,000 +UP FOR .PARKER OR L.E. WATERMAN SNAKE PEN

PAYING $1,000 +UP FOR PARKER #31 OR #41 LARGE SIZE FILIGREE OVERLAY PEN

CLEVES & LONNEMANN JEWELERS STORE: (606) 261-3636 Charles Cleves 319 FAIRFIELD AVE., BELLEVUE, KY 41073 HOME: (606) 491-0354

June 1991/Horological Times 29 By John Plewes ©7991 CLOCKS ht~ide & Outl All rights reserved by the author.

Cutting Glass for Clock Cases

lthough some people look upon cutting glass as a bear in mind, however, that glass defeats even expert Amethod of making unusable triangles and strangely professionals now and then. The only thing to do is to grab shaped polygons of the stuff, it doesn't really have to be that another piece, proceed carefully, and keep at it; your way--most of the time, anyway. It is some consolation to technique will improve as it gets better, as you might say,

Figure 1 6 WHEEL GLASSCUTTER

STEEL CURTAIN TRACK 9•5 LONG

0 0 0 \\

COTTON SPOOL

COATHANGER WIRE

CHOP, TAPPED 8-32 NC

=-=-:..!!===... , = ---:::t=-=~= =::r

WASHER CHOP

SUCTION PAD

30 Horological Times/June 1991 and in due course you will be busting less glass. A circle of glass is commonly required for clock *ATTENTION WATCHMAKERS* cases, and as it is relatively easy to cut, it is a good shape to start with; however, we must first make or buy a suitable circle cutter. As not too many models are available and some of them are too small, it makes sense to make your GRAND OPENING own, upgrading to six wheels at the same time. The common 6-wheel glass cutter can easily be SPECIAL!!! adapted to cut circles, as shown in Figure 1 . Firsttake a 9.5" length of steel I-beam curtain track, and drill eight or nine holes (No. 18 size) 1 " apart in the center of the web. From • CLEAR GLASS CRYSTALS TO FIT 5" of coat hanger wire, form a U-shape, 1/2" wide, that will SEIKO (FANCY & ROUND) fit snugly in the curtain track. Some 5/8" up from the bottom FOR ONLY $8.00 EACH of the U, bend both legs 90°. Now, with a No. 18 drill, make a hole in the glass cutter as shown in Figure 1, and screw •GOLD DECAL GLASS CRYSTALS TO FIT the U-wire to it using a washer and lock nut. Make two mild-steel chops 1/8" x 1/4" x 3/4" and SEIKO FOR ONLY $10.00 EACH drill a central hole in one ofthem with a No. 18 drill. Drill the other with a No. 29 drill and tap it out 8-32NC. Clamp the • SONY SILVER OXIDE WATCH BATTERIES limbs of the U-wire between the chops as shown in Figure 1; this makes possible a fine adjustment of the cutting AT VERY-VERY LOW PRICES: radius. Obtain a small, circular rubber suction pad, about TEARSTRIP BUBBLE PACK MINERAL GLASS 1.5" in diameter (a map fence for a car dash is a good # 321 .38 .37 ROUND CRYSTALS source) and embed the head of a smooth-shafted 8-32 364 .28 25 $15.50/DOZEN screw in it so the shaft points upwards. Slide a washer of MINIMUM (ASSORI'ED NUMBERS) 377 .36 .33 less than 1/2" OD down the screw shaft. As a hold-down for lOOPCS. EACH the suction pad and curtain track (Figure 1), use a wooden 379 .43 .37 cotton spool or a 1 " length of 1" diameter birch dowel with 2fl2. .24 23 a hole (No. 16 drill) in it. :NJ .37 .35 To use the cutter, set up the suction pad inthe hole in the curtain track closest to the required radius, and set AND MUCH-MUCH MORElll the cutter up on a thick pad of newspapers. Make two wheel marks 180° apart and measure their distance (the diameter of the circle). Loosen the chop screw to adjust the U-wire until the correct diameter is obtained, and then tighten the • COMPLETE CRYSTAL FITTING screw again. Now dip the cutter wheel into a little kerosene AND CUTTING SERVICE to facilitate its action and all is ready. Put your glass on a G.S. - B.B. PERFIT - sue & GENUINE

• WATCH MATERIAL • TOOLS • CROWNS

Figure 2 • GASKETS • MOVEMENTS

• HANDS • SPRING BARS

SMITH SUPPLY HOUSE 706 S. HILL ST., #580 ( LOS ANGELES, CA 90014 (213) 622-1687-8 FAX: (213) 488-0922 OUT OF STATE, CALL TOLL FREE 1 (800) 23-SMITH 1 (800) 237-6484

FORMERLY R.T. SMITH JEWELERS SUPPLY

June 1991/Horological Times 31 good thickness of newspaper laid on a clean, flat bench and glass, and then select its best straight edge. Lay the glass - set the cutter in place. Press the suction cup down via the on a thick layer of newspapers, say 40 thicknesses, with a hold-down and keep it there; now cut the circle using firm suitable inter-column printed line on the top sheet. Shift the pressure on the cutter. Do not allow the cutter to overlap the glass around until your chosen straight edge is parallel to start of its cut, as a single clean cut runs through the glass and 8" from the printed line; that is, both ends of your cut­ best. Hold the glass with your fingers outside the circle to to-be are 8" from the edge of the glass. Now take a straight produce a small tension across the cut and tap gently yardstick or other straight edge and set it parallel to the around the cut with the handle of a screwdriver or the printed line, allowing for the offset of the 6-wheel or other handle of a small hammer. See that the cut has run as cutter you will be using. Holding the straight edge firmly intended, completely round the circle, and only then should thus, dip the cutter in kerosene and make a continuous cut, you make a few tangential cuts to free the circle from its using a steady pressure over its full length. The glass can surrounding glass as shown in Figure 2. now be separated by tapping as before or breaking from Other shapes commonly used in clock cases are one end over a 1/4" wooden dowel or pencil. (Long ago, the 4- and ~sided pieces found in kitchen and school clock being apprehensive, I once applied the tip of a 60w solder­ doors, both of which involve straight cuts rather than curved ing iron to the underside of a long cut and worked it along ones. Larger, rather narrow pieces of glass are found in the slowly--and supposedly--safely!) sides and doors of Vienna wall clocks; hbwever, the Similarly, small pieces of glass can be cut by principles of c~ing straight edges apply to them all. positioning them over accurate outlines drawn on paper or One advantage of glass is that you can see through cardboard. Composite pieces, curves, and straights com­ it, so it is very helpful to use the inter-column lines in news­ bined can also becutthisway. One of the more difficult jobs papers to measure where you wish to cut. Such lines are is reglazing the dial door of a break-arch longcase. It is usually straight, but this can be checked out by simply essential to first make sure that the door is flat and true. A looking along them. Suppose you wish to cut a strip of glass warp is sometimes powerful enough to break the glass or a• wide, you first check for scratches and blemishes on the to bend the glass over a period of time.

Figure 3

r' Ii /~

32 Horological Times/June 1991 - Cut the three straight edges first and then lay the glass in the door frame with its top slanting out upwards. Now trace the break-arch outline on the glass with a red or black wax pencil, but do not try for too small a radius at the breaks of the arch; it is better to remove a little wood, as required, from the frame. The glass is then turned oveF and cut from the other side by hand, keeping the cutter directly over the waxed pencil line. Push the cutter away from you over the curve and lean forward to see that you are following it. Note that continuity is essential here--gremlins are always waiting to jump into any gaps in the line! Separation is best achieved by gently tapping the under­ side (wax pencil line) of the glass, working outwards from the middle of the arch. When cutting glass, small pieces are sometimes left on and have to be removed. This can be done with glass pliers or with the more versatile 'shanks' shown in Figure 3. SHORT DROP SCHOOLHOUSE Glass shanks might well be called "glass whittlers," for they This popular Octagon style short drop schoolhouse enable glass to be whittled or crumbled away until the clock is solid wood with a rich mahogany finish. Large desired configuration is obtained. They are especially easy to read cream colored Arabic dial has a 1o 1/ 2" useful for taking off small amounts of glass which are brass finish bezel. 23" high and 1 s· wide with a 31 day hour and half hour strike. The bottom door with otherwise difficult to remove. They are cabable of shaping regulator glass shows the plain brass pendulum. All certain odd curves and of breaking the razor sharp edge left this for only $67.50. by a cutter. A shanked edge of glass is rough and granular 149339 ...... $67.50 rather than sharp and jagged, and is therefore somewhat safer to handle than a cut edge. Figure 3 shows the layout for a typical pair of shanks. The dimensions are not critical as long as the proportions are maintained. The measurements given will suit a fairly large hand; the loops may be reduced a little to fit a smaller hand. To construct the shanks, first make up the twin blades of Figure 3. Care with hole placement is essential, as the blades are to be reversed and interchanged when worn. Remove any burrs and sharp edges. Construction of the shafts is by means of a good, firmly mounted vise and a little gentle persuasion with a hammer. First, bend the curve nearest to point A in Figure 3 and then follow on with the bottom curve. Before closing up the loops, groove the end ofthe rod with a 1/4" round file. This improves the appearance and makes a better frt. With SCHOOLHOUSE CLOCK WITH SIDE the loops hammered into place, check the 11-3/4" dimen­ SCROLLS sion of Figure 3. File both sides of the shafts flat at their free The schoolhouse clock with a flair! Standard, popular 23" x 12 1/2 " size with an oak finish. Sides of drop are ends until they are about 1/8" thick for the last 1/2" or so, the fitted with 5" additional patterned scroll. Lower beveled flats being in the same plane as the loops. Taper off these "Regulator" glass, 31 day hour and half hour strike two 1/2" long flats for a further 1/2" or so and then bias the movement, brass colored R & A grid pendulum, a• dial ends to conform with the side view of Figure 3. This also is with Roman numerals and brass colored bezel. An done by hammering and bending in the vise. Note that the excellent copy of an original. two shafts with their loops are not handed left and right, but 149340 ...... $64.50 each are identical in every respect. Now curve the top inch or so, as shown in Figure 3, to allow the top 1/4" or more of one to overlap the other. On the center line of the flats and some 3/16" from S. (fTalioSe~lnc. Worldwide Distributors to Horologists the ends of the shafts, drill a hole which is a very free fit for the 1/2" long nail section. Temporarily screw the shafts '~:S I U?;;/ together with the 2-56 screw and nut and with the two 234 Commerce Place, P .0. Box 21208 blades held at their correct position between the shafts, Greensboro, N.C., 27420, U.S.A. check that the shafts are parallel and touching the blades Phone (919) 275-0462 along their entire 1-1 /2" length. Adjust the top curves in the FAX Number 1·800-537-4513 (Please turn to page 35)

June 1991/Horological Times 33 replace the obsolete 1 rpm M547. I reduced the length of the output shaft on the new rotor to clear the wheel TELECHRON MODEL 8B51 below it, and with a standard .1250 in. reamed hole in the pinion, I got just the right press fit between the shaft HOUSEHOLD TIMER and pinion to eliminate any need for set-screws, etc. The Replacing a Missing Pinion---How I Did It pinion was positioned along the shaft axis so that its thickness was centered on the mating sweep second wheel. by The timer is a really handy item, being capable of a single or multiple "on-off' increments as short as 15 Richard C. Dreibelbis minutes, merely by pulling out the "Stops" which sur­ round the dial. Time of day for the occurrences are selected by the hour characters adjacent to the stops used. Output is a standard 115 VAC receptacle. At the 'm sure that there aren't a lot of folks out there end of a control cycle, all stops are returned to their "off' I clamoring for the pinion details that worked out positions. A toggle switch at the bottom of the case well for me, but for the few that might be, I submit the provides an override so that, if desired, the output following: receptacle is always "hot." These photos show the timer, as well as the I determined that the motor pinion required to M3506 rotor with the new pinion pressed in place. match the center distances and RPM requirements should be a basic duplicate of the driven wheel that is on the sweep second arbor. To keep noise transmission down, and for ease of machining, I selected "Celcon" as a material, and ended up cutting the pinion to the following specs:

Pinion 0.D. 15mm No. of teeth 36 Cutter module .25 Pinion thickness .125 in. Tooth depth .785mm Since the rotor that was in the timer was appar­ ently the original (due for replacement), and because the shaft had a left-hand thread, the tap for which I didn't have, I elected to use an available M3506 rotor to Figure 2. Motor M3506 with Celcon pinion.

Figure 3. Motor (rotor) and field assembly.

Figure 1. Model 8851 household timer (Telechron).

34 Horological Times/June 1991 Finally a word or two of caution when dealing with CLOCKS INSIDE & OUT glass. Do not be in a hurry--take your time. Quick move­ (Continued from page 33) ments may embed a tiny sliver more deeply than will slow movements. Glasses or goggles are advisable to protect your eyes. In addition to glass chips, shanking, for ex­ shafts to achieve this parallelism, for it is important. Check ample, also generates fine, smoke-like wisps of fine glass that the bias still conforms to Figure 3 side view. These dust, and these are decided no tonic for your lungs, so adjustments are facilitated by temporarily holding the two avoid their inhalation. The occasional use of shanks a few shafts together with a 2-56 screw and nut rather than the times a year will cause no problem, but prolonged use over nail section. many years will cause disease akin to silicosis of the lungs, With the two blades carefully in place, accurately so a mask is a wise precaution if there is much shanking to mark out the positions on the shafts for the 4-40 clearance be done. To stop the unwanted distribution of glass chips, holes which correspond to the tapped holes in the blades. it is as well to shank into a container such as a carton or a Remove the blades and drill the two holes in each shaft with plastic garbage bin large enough to accept both shanks and a #32 drill. Care should be taken to get these holes parallel glass and your two hands. and central in the shaft thickness. Screw the blades firmly When cut to size, glass can be held in wooden in place and file smooth any protruding 4-40 screws on the doors by means of 3/16" square-section wooden strips mating surfaces. Ensure that these surfaces are in contact pinned in place with 1/2" or 5/8" long thin finishing nails. along their entire lengths. Rather than hammering them, such nails are best pressed Remove the 2-56 screw and replace it with the in with large pliers or the special purpose tool used for a 1/2" long nail section and the two 4-40 washers as shown similar job in picture framing. Care is necessary to avoid in Figure 3 side view. Rivet both ends of the nail section (the breaking your new, hard-won piece of glass, and it is as well nail head may be used for one end) so that the resultant to bear in mind that only a very limited nail penetration is joint is loose and free. It must not even approach being possible when hardwoods such as oak are involved. O tight. It is essentialthataveryfreefit be maintained; in fact, it must be sloppy enough to enable the blades to pass each other side by side. With this admittedly horrible pivot achieved, it only remains to file off any vise marks and to render a final rub with fine emery cloth. The action of glass shanks is unlike that of scissors or of pliers, and it accordingly requires practice. The blades have a cross-grinding action, rather like a cow chewing cud. SATISFACTION A close approximation is to set the thumb on the tip of the THE bent index finger and then run it down the side of the finger GUARANTEED to its base, raise, and repeat. Try this a few times freehand, 6-month warranty. WATCH BAND moving both fingers and thumb, and then try it with the We pay postage on all shanks. Although an unfamiliar movement at first, a !little prepaid orders. COMPANY practice will give the requisite cross-grinding motion to the 702 OVERLOOK AVENUE blades--a motion which necessitates the unusual amount CINCINNATI, OH 45238 of play in the top joint. (513) 921-7832 Take a small piece of glass, say 2" x 3", and try out phone & fax the whittling action of the shanks. The glass can be steadied by resting your left thumb on the upper shaft ofthe 0240 1Bmm BRN _ _ PCS. x $3.00 shanks about 1" above the blades, or by resting your 20mm BRN -- PCS. x $3.00 fingers against the lower shaft or blade. The glass must be 1Bmm BLK PCS. x $3,00 20mm BLK PCS. x $3,00 dry and clean for best results. Note that only the top corner ~5 of the upper blade bears on the glass and virtually all the 16mm BRN __ PCS. x $4.00 wear occurs at this point. As this wear progresses, ex­ 1&nm BRN PCS x $4.00 changing, reversing, or inverting the blades will enable all 5622 1&nm BRN __ PCS. x $4.00 the corners to be used in turn, hence the careful hole l&nm BLK __ PCS. x $400 positioning advocated above. Glass can be attacked from GOLF 12mm LADIES __ PCS x $2 50 • either side according to which side crumbles most readily. 16mmGENTS __ PCS x $2,50 • Certain ceramics may also respond to this action. 1&nmGENTS __ PCS, x $2.50 Odd though it may seem, glass can also be cut 0130 10mm BRN _ _ PCS. x $2 50 roughly to shape with ordinary scissors under water. This 12mm BRN __ PCS. x $2.50 18mm BRN __ PCS. x $2.50 is apparently due to the water's dampening effect on the Smm BLK __ PCS. x $2.50 destructive vibrations set up by the cutting action which 10mm BlK PCS. x $2.50 14mm BU< _ _ PCS. x $2.50 would otherwise shatter it as expected. Incidentally, I was TOTAL young and somewhat disbelieving when I learned of this, SUGGESTED RETAIL $12-$16 but interested enough to bike a few miles to see it done!

June 1991/Horological Times 35 Turning Between Centers The Ultimate Technique For Accuracy, Speed, and Simplicity

By

J.M. Huckabee CMC,FBHI

urning between centers is almost a lost art, yet Tit is one of the mo;t areurate methods of lathework known. This article deals with clock-size work of simple turning and pivot polishing fixtures. These are easily scaled up or down for other piece sizes. A little piece of 1/8-inch brass rod, a 1/16-inch rod, and a small piece of broomstick are the resources required. Let's begin. Cut a piece of broomstick about 5/8 inch long, drill a center hole, and insert a 2-1/2-inch length of 1/8- inch rod tightly in the hole. Set this in a #32 collet, true up all surfaces of the wood disc, locate a conical center in the brass rod, and drill several 1/16-inch holes in the wood disc. Cut a variety oflengths of the 1/16-inch rod in a range of 1/2 to 2 inches long. This should result in pieces that look somewhat like those in Figure 1. Inspect Figure 2. Each time the tool is used, the center should be re-cut. This will give perfect truth to !Figure 2. A female center, a wood disc, and a pin is suitable for most the center. Now try your new tool in the lathe with a work. typical clock wheel. Refer to Figure 3. The drive pin should just pass through our wheel window. Select a suitable pin length and hole location. You may find a crank-type pin will be needed as illustrated in Figure 4. Pins should fit snugly in the

Figure 1 . This simple fixture is needed for turning between Figure 3. Select a drive pin that extends through the wheel window. centers. 36 Horological Times/June 1991 disc hole, and ends should be finished without burs. It's The new QTM 901 is the most complete prudent to make the pins as needed; we can never guess diagnostic test meter on the market. all the possible sizes. In this illustration, our wheel is held in a female tailstock center. The one depicted is It is designed by a watchmaker, for a watch­ made of brass and fits the taper of the tail runner. maker, and is watchmaker affordable. Mark the window used for driving: Try running The QTM 901 tests: this slow, fast, remove and reinsert the wheel, etc. Not 1) Magnetic pickup of coil. only is this faster than a collet, it returns to the lathe in 2) Battery and circuit output voltages. perfect position. This is the setup I use to turn the hub 3) Current consumption. of an escape wheel when installing a new wheel. How do 4) Coil resistance. 5) Watch mechanically. I drive the arbor ifthere is no wheel? Make up another It has a variable voltage power supply, is easy to use (one 1/8-inch rod without the wood disc, let it extend about a 7-position switch), and video tapes are available for 1/2 inch out of the collet, and cut a true center. Place the demonstrations. Available from most material supply arbor in position and wind a little piece of tape around houses. the joint line between the arbor and the headstock THE BEST PART! center.A little piece of transparent tape on two oil-free All this for only $395.00! pieces will work wonders as a drive coupling. Some brands of tape hold tighter than others; choose one that adheres well to metal. Now turn your attention to Figure 5. Let's use For information, our setup as a pivot polisher: The tail runner of this call or write: FINN TIME PRODUCTS, INC. 200 Lake Avenue Suite202 Lake Worth, FL 33460 (407) 533-11 03 G BERGEON Machine to shape patterns for cutting watch glasses. Figure 4. A crank-shaped pin is used with larger wheels. Tailstock uses a female center. With this machine one can manually produce a precise and geometrical pattern, using the watch case. Easy to use.

No.6648

Sale through specialized dealers. BERGEON & CIE SA CH·2400 LE LOCLE Tools from A to Z ; Figure 5. A wood dowel in the tailstock makes an excellent pivot polishing fixture. June 1991/Horological Times 37 Figure 6. A small dowel makes this pivot polishing setup one of the Figure 7. A collet-holding tailstock is the perfect tool for holding a half­ best. open center.

Figure 9. Tail adapters (left to right): For steady rest; Unimat lathe; taper spindle watchmaker's lathe; and for #50 collet. Crank pins are Figure 8. A drill chuck is a popular tool for holding pivot polishing centers. easily made.

lathe has a diameter of 7 /16 inch. This means that for a Permanent beds are made of brass in graduated sizes, few cents we can abtain a wood dowel for a substitute and used in the same lathe setup. If your lathe has a tail runner. This one was drilled to approximately pivot collet-holdingtailstock, you have the perfect tool for the size, and then cut away as illustrated. Cut depth was small pivot beds. Look over Figure 7. This is a perma­ such that about 25-30% ofthe pivot diameter is exposed. nent brass pivot bed held in a #32 collet. The raw Our pivot is in a trap, yet accessible to be worked with material for this piece was a 1/8-inch brass rod. a pivot file, stone, burnisher, etc. Lube the pivot and Fortunately, our job lends itself well to other polish with most any of the tools suitable for pivot work. holders as we find in Figure 8. Most small lathes that are This wood runner has another pivot size on its opposite not of the watchmaker type would use this method. end. We have other options found in Figure 9. These The half-open center is also commonly called a adaptors support pivot beds in the following tools: polishing bed. The previous one is excellent, but lathes Looking at the photo left to right, the first fits into a built to metric dimensions will not accommodate readily steady rest; next is dimensioned for the Unimat tail available wood dowels. Let's explore another method. runner. The third fits into the tapered bore of most Study the tail runner in Figure 6. This runner watchmaker's lathes, and the last is sized for a #50 has a 1/8-inch hole about 5/8 inch deep and a clamping collet. screw. I make my polishing beds from 1/8-inch wood Spend a few minut~s and make these tools. It dowel in pieces about 1-1/2 inches long. Drill the wood, adds a whole new dimension to lathework needed by our and cut away the section indicated with a pocket knife. trade. A custom polishing bed is made in a couple of minutes. D 38 Horological Times/June 1991 AWi WO STEP Material Search Network 25YEARS OLD

EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to work in conjunction with the AWi Movement Bank. If you can 1991 marks a quarter of a century since WOSTEP supply any of the items listed here, please send details to (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational the Material Search Network. Do not send the items. Program) first started running advanced watchmaker Members requesting these items will be advised of their training courses in Switzerland. Lasting 20 weeks and availability and will contact you direct. given in English, the WOSTEP basic course takes place twice a year and offers those familiar with basic repair techniques a unique means of acquiring a more thor­ 54 Universal 42 Set Bridge, Part #445/1004. ough knowledge of how to repair, overhaul, and service Swiss mechanical and electronic horological products. 56 Seiko 1520B Center Wheel, Part #224150. Alongside the basic course, WO STEP now runs a special course devoted to complicated watches for students who have already followed the basic course. If you can supply any of these items, please contact: A WI Since it was founded, WOSTEP has organized Material Search Network, A WI Central, P. 0. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211; Fax (513) 661-3131. D courses for students from 55 countries, of whom a large number now hold positions ofresponsibility in different sectors of the watch trade in their own countries. WOSTEP's 25th anniversary, coinciding with the 700th anniversary of the Swiss Confederation, is to be celebrated by a stimulating program of professional and social events in Neuchatel in September to which all past and present WOSTEP students are being invited. This will precede Neuchatel's traditional wine festival, Maryland Jeweler Switzerland's biggest, and will be followed by visits for participants to leading Swiss watch factories. Reports Robbery Any former students who have not already re­ ceived details are requested to contact WOSTEP at: 1 rue des Tunnels, 2006 Neuchatel, Switzerland. Tel. (038) 30 48 30; Fax (038) 30 35 89. D A major break-in occurred at a Maryland jewelers in recent weeks with a great many items stolen. These items are marked with the national registered mark:

21 !:::. HK

Readers are requested to report any items displaying this mark to AWI Central. We will then check to see if A CAREER WITH A FUTURE it might be one of the stolen articles. Items for which there is a special interest in recovering include: ~~Q . ~

Man's Wristwatch--lSK yellow Patek Philippe ~~ "'~o l~._~~~ PLACEMENT FINANCIAL Man's Wristwatch--18Kyellow Cartier FOR AID engraved with Love Mom & Dad 5 I 11I84 GRADUATES .,~o. c(o AVAILABLE ~~~ Call or Write ~~ ~~~ 16/S Illinois ~..t ..~G GEM CITY COLLEGE 4ifl ,.. 700 STATE • QUINCY, ll 62301 ., 16/S Hamilton 217-222-0391 D

June 1991/Horological Times 39 holes, one above each column, obviously for finials. BULLETIN The case measures 12 inches x 32 inches; there are no identifying marks as to the maker on either the case BOARD or the movement. It has a typical tall case narrow movement. Mr. West seeks suggestions, photos, or sketches A. NEW REQUESTS as to what the top of this case may have originally looked like. ELGIN WATCH SERIAL NUMBER 00,000,002 Chester Gilbert, Morens Valley, CA, has a 20/0, 15 GREINER MM-1 OPERATOR'S MANUAL jewel Elgin, First Model 492 ladies' wristwatch cased Dewy Clark, Glen Arm, MD, is seeking a copy of the in an 18K case. This watch has the following markings operator's manual for a Greiner MM-1 timer. If you on the movement: can supply, we will copy and return yours to you.

Elgin USA: 15 jewels: 00000002 MECHANICAL CLOCK TIMER MOVEMENTS FOR 24-HOUR RECORDERS The case is marked: Frank Borges, Waterford, CT, is looking for clock timer movements suitable for 24-hour recorders, e.g. Cased and Timed by Elgin National Watch Co. temperature recorders with an output ofone R.P .D. It J. Milhening Inc. should be spring-driven. He has used one made by m Pandux of Germany in the past and would like to 18K locate an agent for this company or a similar clock movement. Speculation is that this was an early "test market" piece. Can anyone, perhaps a former Elgin employee, explain this extremely low movement number? B. RESPONSES EARLY AMERICAN CLOCK CASE 2-MOTOR SESSIONS CLOCK Kenneth West, Groton, CT, has the clock shown below Additional information has been rereived from a null).ber for restoration. The top portion of the case has two of sources during the month. It seems that the strike and chime mechanism of the 2-motor Sessions clock that Sam Tipton has operates exactly as the mechani­ cal version of the Sessions clock. Several references were mentioned, one by Steven Conover which ap­ peared in Horological Times in April 1982. It now appears in Mr. Conover's book Chime Clock Repair. The other article was originally printed as a response in Henry Fried's "Questions & Answers" column in the October 1977 Horological Times. We are repro­ ducing an edited version of this response in Section D of the "Bulletin Board." Robert Peischl, Rio Linda, CA also has provided three pages of instructions which are very complete and helpful. RONDA STEM SYSTEM CHART Jim Lindon, Glendale, AZ, has been seeking a chart to identify stems in a Ronda assortment of 664 stems.. We have received this information from Barry Baker, Louisville, KY; Gene Lawson, Harrodsburg, KY; and Steven Gerpele, Moncton, NB, Canada. This just reinforces the motto "AWI is horologists helping hor­ ologists."

HOW TO TRAIN A CUCKOO CLOCK In the last issue we requested a copy of the booklet How to Train a Cuckoo Clock. We now have a copy and can once again loan copies from the library. METHODS FOR CLEANING WATCH DIALS Several have responded with suggestions. One was by rubbing the dial with a potato. We haven't tried this yet, but wonder if others have used this method. The other method recommended is one I per-

40 Horological Times/June 1991 sonally used and found to be very effective but it is Originally, the time portion of the Sessions VERY DEADLY if not used with caution and good Westminster was driven by either a Hammond biscuit sense. Most of you "old-timers" probably used it as motor or a small motor unit that looks a lot like an well. This involves a quick dip into a weak cyanide early Waltham electric product. Later, Sessions pro­ solution and then quickly into a rinse of cold water. vided a conversion kit that used its own motor such as Pat the dial dry. Cyanide is EXTREMELY DEADLY was found on all Sessions electrics (Banjos, Tambour and the fumes should not be inhaled and it should not timepieces, etc.) in the 1940s, 50s, and 60s. All ofthese come into contact with any skin openings. --Editor are obsolete. There is a Hansen-Syncron motor-Z12RA (30 RPM) available from most motor suppliers. This motor C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED is a fairly easy installation on most Sessions Tam­ bours-Westminster Chime or hour and half hour strike SCHEMATIC FOR L&R 430G that have the case depth to accept it. ULTRASONIC CLEANER The job requires the removal of the 15-tooth R.W. Dietzel, Albuquerque, NM, seeks a schematic brass pinion gear from the original motor unit. It must and technical manual for the L&R ultrasonic cleaning then be drilled for a press fit on the new Hansen motor machine. Ifyou have such information to share with shaft. The Hansen motor shaft must also be shortened us, please send it to the "Bulletin Board." We will approximately 1 I 8 inch so it does not hit the nearby photocopy it and return your copy to you. gear in the time train. Then the motor is located in its properly depthed position and three ofthe four mount­ QUARTZCHRONCLOCK ing ears on the motor can be marked for drilled and James Campbell, Lowell, NC, is looking for the maker tapped holes in the clock plate. I usually find that the ofa quartz clock movement which has" Quartz Chron" 3 I 56 screws are sufficient to hold the motor in place. on the back. He needs a replacement movement and Three washers I spacers about 1I16 inch thick are also would like to know who the suppliers in the U.S. required to hold the motor above the clock plate might be. enough to clear some pivots that extend through the clock plate. ODD-SIZED CROWN GASKETS What you wind up with is a self-starting Ray Cherry, Relay, MD, is interested in older watches electric Westminster with a currently available and and is interested in solving the general problem of replaceable motor unit to drive the time train. I seldom obtaining odd-sized crown gaskets. Specifically, he have any trouble with the constant demand motor would like to know if anyone can name a source for used for the chime and strike unless someone has gasket material from which he can fabricate an 0- pulled the coil wires out ofthe coil. In this case, a little ring; or does anyone have a source for assorted sizes unwrapping of the protective paper usually exposes of replacement 0-rings for crowns? Also, can anyone the tiny wires and they can be soldered to new leads. share information about how they install replacement Ifthe coil is totally dead or the wires cannot be located, 0-rings in crowns? I know of no replacement coil that will work. My purpose in writing to you on this is that I EUREKA CLOCKS do many of these transplants every year and I am Rodney Councell, Greensboro, MD, writes: certain that other shops must be called upon to do I have two Eureka clocks in for repair. One is these from time to time and the preceding infonnation serial number 1696, and the newer one serial number might make them more willing to accept them for 7985. I have made new pin contacts and fixed contacts repair. These movements usually also require clean­ for both, plus the normal cleaning and general re­ ing and oiling and often considerable rebushing if pairs. The newer clock has a coil resistance of 18 ohms they have been neglected or run under very dusty and the older is 19 ohms. I have set the gap at minimal conditions. The end result is a completely serviceable and have the contacts opening and closing at the and functional electric Westminster clock that will proper time in regards to the swing of the balance. give many years of additional service. I have never Both balances are free in their travel. On the newer found another electric or other Westminster that has Eureka, as the contact closes you can hear the snap of the tone quality of a Sessions. They have a unique the coil pull to the base plate. sound of their own that is most pleasing. The older clock, even though all adjustments,etc. Fred Bausch appear to be the same, itjust does not have the snap or San Carlos, CA magnetic pull when the contacts close. The balance will just run (approximately 20 degrees) at best. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Do you have information regarding this month's requests? Do you need information about one of D. SUPPLEMENTAL INFORMATION this month's responses? If so, send a self-ad­ dressed, stamped business-size envelope and I recently joined A WI and I am enjoying the Times. In your request to: "Bulletin Board," c/o A WI Cen­ one issue you answered a question regarding a coil for tral, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211. a Sessions Westminster electric. I have had much 0 experience in "heart transplants" on these clocks.

June 1991/Horological Times 41 TecWATCHES ©1991

Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author)

Antique Watch Restoration© 1991 PARTLXVI Maintenance of Watch Train Wheel Pivots

he proper maintenance of train wheel pivots is Figure 1 shows some examples of correct and Tan important part ofantique watch restoration. incorrect pivot conditions. This series of articles will Many of the older watches did not have jewels support­ show different methods that can be used to correct ing the pivots; therefore, the pivots were more likely to abnormal pivot conditions. Views A and B show cor­ become damaged by wear. When a pivot is supported by rectly shaped pivots. The pivot that is shown in View A a brass hole, grit gets imbedded in the brass around the is a regular train wheel pivot and View B shows a long hole and grinds a groove in the pivot. The groove can pivot which is used to carry a second hand. View C usually be removed and the hole closed or rebushed to shows a regular train wheel pivot which is bent, and correct the situation. Other conditions may also exist. View D shows a long pivot for a second hand that is bent. View E, Figure 1 shows a worn pivot which is usually caused by a grit buildup in the pivot hole. View Figure 1 F shows an incorrectly shaped pivot which has a front taper. This condition was created by someone while repairing the watch in the past. A pivot shaped in this manner will usually have too much side shake, espe­ cially if there is too much end shake on the pinion or arbor. View G, Figure 1 shows a pivot which has back taper. This pivot will usually have too much side shake in its hole due to the fact that the pivot hole must be A c large enough for the end of the pivot to go into. This B D makes the hole too large for the smaller part of the pivot. View H shows a pivot with both front and back taper. This leaves the pivot barrel shaped which could cause the pivot to have too much or at least variable side shake. These last three conditions are not usually created by wear but by a careless or unskilled repairer. Another pivot condition which is not shown is a broken pivot or one that is almost worn off. In either case, the pinion must be replaced or the pinion repivoted. E F STRAIGHTENING BENT PIVOTS G H Figure 2 shows a method that can be used to straighten bent pivots. When this method is used, the bent pivot is chucked lightly in a good true wire chuck, as shown,

42 Horological Times/June 1991 Figure2 Figures

j

with the bend lined up with the outside edge of the hole tweezers to straighten a pivot, the pinion is first chucked in the chuck. Then the fingers are used to manipulate to up true in the lathe. Then the lathe iS turned by hand straighten the pivot. A very light touch is needed when until the bent pivot points upward as shown. Now, moving the pinion in the straightening process. The warm the tweezers and apply them to the pivot as lathe should not be turning during the straightening shown. The tweezer jaws are closed on the pivot and, at process, but it can be turned slowly to check the truth of the same time, the pivot is pinched downward to straight.en the pinion. When the pinion runs true, the pivot should the pivot. The lathe can then be turned slowly to check be straight. the pivot for trueness. Another method that may be used to straighten pivots is shown in Figure 3. With this method, the pinion TURNING DOWN ROUGH is chucked true in a wire chuck as shown. Then, a thin OR WORN PIVOTS brass rod which has had a hole slightly larger than the When a rough or worn pivot is found in a watch that is bent pivot drilled into its end is used over the pivot to being restored, it can usually be refinished if it is not straighten it. Sometimes a piece of bushing wire with a damaged too badly. The worn pivot can usually be small enough hole can be used for this.purpose. To use turned down with a sharp polished graver if it doesn't this method, one would chuck the pinion true, then turn reduce the pivot so much that it makes it too weak. To the lathe by hand until the end of the bent pivot points be safe, a pivot should not be reduced more than 15% of upward as shown in Figure 3. At this point, the drilled its diameter by this method. If a pivot needs to be rod is placed onto the pivot where the bend starts. Then, reduced more than 15% of its diameter, it would be the end of the rod is manipulated downward with the better to repivot the pinion or make and fit a new pinion. fingers to straighten the pivot. After this has been done, the lathe is turned slowly while the pivot is checked for truth. This process may need to be repeated to finally make the pivot run true. NOTE: It is advisable to warm Figure4 the brass rod over an alcohol flame before its use on the bent pivot. This is so the chill will be removed from the pivot to help prevent it from breaking when it is being straightened. A very light touch is needed on the rod when it is used to help prevent overdoing the operation. Another method for straightening pivots is shown in Figure 4. When using this method, a pair of brass or nickel silver tweezers is used to straighten the pivot. It is a good idea to warm the tweezers also before using them to straighten a pivot. The tweezers can be an old pair that has become stubby by years of use. The jaws are prepared by filing them square at their ends. Then, theinsidesofthejawsarefiledflatsothey~ometogether flat and parallel as shown in Figure 4. To use the

June 1991/Horological Times 43 Figure 5 shows a pivot being turned down in the lathe the shoulder on the pinion. It is very important that the with the graver. It is very important that the pivot runs top of the grinding slip be absolutely flat. This is done absolutely true before one attempts to turn it down or with a fine flat hand file. The file is moved diagonally finish it; otherwise, the pivot will not come out round. across the top of the slip making it flat and leaving fine Less work will be needed to finish the turned-down lines on the surface to hold the grinding compound. This surface ifthe graver used is smooth and polished. When needs to be repeated occasionally to keep the slip flat. turning the pivot down, one should avoid cutting into The grinder is rested on the index finger when it is filed. the shoulder of the pivot. The graver should remove The grinding material used on this slip is a mixture of material very slowly from the pivot. The material re­ fine Arkansas oilstone powder and clock oil. The two are moved from the pivot should be in the form of very small mixed together on the plate of one of the compartments shavings or dust. A carbide graver is best to use for of a polishing block. An exploded view of the polishing turning down pivots since it holds its shape better on block is shown in Figure 7, View A. Usually the lower hard materials. compartment ofthe three compartment block is used for oilstone and the other two compartments are used for METHODS USED TO GRIND finer grinding and polishing materials. The grinding AND POLISH PIVOTS materials are mixed and crushed up on the plate with a One method that can be used to finish pivots is shown in spatula. The spatula is shown in View B, Figure 7. The Figure 6. In this method, one uses grinding slips and spatula is shown being used in View C, Figure 7. A piece grinding compounds to remove any graver marks on the of clock mainspring can be used to make a spatula by pivot, then a hard steel burnisher is used to smooth and shaping it and fitting it to a handle. The length of the surface harden the pivot so it will resist wear. The pivot spatula blade should be about 1 inch and its width is given the final polish with a boxwood slip and Linde should be approximately 3/8 inch. A or diamantine. This is an old method used by watch­ To grind a pivot with the iron grinding slip, one makers for many years and was the method taught at would apply some of the grinding compound to the top the Elgin Watchmakers College. of the slip near the undercut edge of the slip. Then the View A, Figure 6 shows the iron grinding slip slip is placed underneath the pivot (flat against the being used to grind the pivot smooth. An end view of the pivot) with the undercut edge squarely against the grinding slip is shown at "a" in View A. The iron shoulder of the pivot as shown in View A, Figure 6. The grinding slip is made from a horseshoe nail if it is grinding slip should rest flat on the index finger. This available, or it can be made from a regular nail. The nail helps one to guide the slip and to keep it flat against the is hammered out on an anvil to approximately the pivot. The slip is moved back and forth on the pivot proper shape, then it is shaped with a file. Note that the square with the pivot until all of the graver marks are edge of the slip that goes against the shoulder of the ground out. The shoulder of the pivot should be ground pivot is undercut at approximately 10 degrees. This flat at the same time that the pivot is being ground. allows one to grind a sharp corner where the pivot joins After the pivot has been ground with the iron

Figure 5 Figure6 D

~ a

ecu.· BOX- WOOD SLIP

son IRO N

A B c 0

44 Horological T&nes/June 1991 Figure? Figure 8 D

B grinding slip, it can be given a smoother finish by using the surface of the pivot and the shoulder of the pivot. a bell-metal grinding slip with a finer grinding com­ The burnisher will also produce a smooth polish on the pound. The bell-metal slip is shown in View B, Figure 6. pivot and its shoulder at the saine time, especially if the Note that the edges of this slip are curved. The purpose burnisher is finished correctly. The cross lines can be of the curve is to assure that the shoulder of the pivot made on the burnisher by pulling it across a small sheet will be ground flat in case the slip is not held square with of fine emery paper while the paper is supported on a the pivot during the grinding operation. This same smooth flat surface such as a piece of plate glass. If the curved shape can also be made on the iron grinding slip emery paper is not held flat, the surface of the burnisher as well as the pivot burnisher and boxwood slip. The is likely to become out offlat. The burnisher is less likely grinding compound used on the bell-metal slip can be to become out of flat ifthe emery paper is stretched over the coarser grits of diamantine (Number 1 or Number a smooth, uniformly curved surface. This surface can be 2). Number 1 is the coarsest and Number 3 is the finest a block of wood which has been shaped with a curved for polishing. Linde C or Linde A may be used in place surface that has a six-inch radius. To form the cross of the diamantine if one desires. Linde C is coarser than lines, the burnisher is pulled squarely over the curved Linde A. Linde B is the finest. The diamantine is mixed surface ofthe emery paper with the curve of the surface. with watch oil on the metal plate of the middle compart­ The undercut edge of the burnisher is cross-lined also. ment of the polishing block. The spatula is used to mix To use the burnisher, it is first wiped clean. Then a thin the compound. Make sure that the spatula is clean and film ofoil is applied to the surface ofthe burnisher before free of the oilstone paste mixed previously. The fine it is used to burnish the pivot. The burnisher can be kept grinding compound is used on the bell-metal slip in the clean and lubricated by applying the oil to a piece of same manner as the oilstone compound was used on the paper towel and by wiping the burnisher occasionally iron grinding slip. The top of the slip must be dressed with the oily paper towel. The oil may be watch oil, or occasionally to keep it flat the same as the iron grinding thread-cutting oil works very well. The steel burnisher slip. is used in the same manner as the grinding slips.

BURNISHING THE PIVOT POLISHING THE PIVOT The next operation in finishing the pivot is to burnish its The pivot is finally polished with a boxwood slip which surface. This is done with a hard steel burnisher which has some diamantine applied to its surface. The box­ has fine cross lines. The burnisher is shown in View C, wood slip is first made wet with clean denatured alcohol, Figure 6. The purpose ofthe burnisher is to work harden then the polishing compound is applied to the surface of (Please tum to page 48) June 1991/Horological Times 45 Pickle Barrel

Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

A BEGINNER'S COURSE IN JEWELRY CRAFTING & REPAIR Flat or Bead Diamond Settings

lat settings using beads to hold the diamond in place that you should be familiar with are the jewelers saw, files, and Fwere at one time the most popular way to set a the usual hand tools, including a flex shaft tool for drilling and diamond. It is still probably the most secure setting. This is using with setting burs. Setting burs and their use were ex­ because the diamond is set below the surface of the edges, and plained in last month's article. The setting bur in the flex shaft so before the beads can wear off the edges must wear down. tool will cut the seat for the stone in the flat setting. The shape of the point cuts a tapered seat that allows the girdle of the FLAT SETTINGS diamond to fit it and seat well if the correct diameter bur is used. F1at settings are probably the most difficult to set ifstarting from Figure 1 shows the necessary gravers, beading tools, beading a flat plate. There are now flat setting plates available from your block, and a milgrain tool without handle, but it can use a handle findings supplier, of which there are several different types. similar to the graver or beading tool handles. Figure 2 shows the Some have slightly elongated beads already formed which will steps in laying out and making the setting and the stone setting allow for a variation in diamond size. Others have a bar from process. These illustrations will be referred to in these step-by­ each comer to the center; these can allow a great variation in the step instructions. size of the diamond by drilling the center hole larger but slightly smaner than the diameter of the diamond to be set, allowing Figure 1 room to cut a seat that is the exact size of the diamond. These pre-made settings do not require the skill in setting due to them being pre-brite cut and the edges already milgrained--even though the beads have to be formed and pushed over the edge of the stone. Having the knowledge and skill to do hand engraving is a big plus when doing diamond setting. This is especially true when doing flat settings. Anyone having learned it already has the feel of hand gravers and knows how to use them in relief cutting as well as in making brite cuts and milgrain edges. I D know of a school which highly recommends that anyone want­ ing to take their course in diamond setting first take their course F in hand engraving.

TOOLS NEEDED I am now going to lay out step-by-step instructions on making a flat setting and setting the diamond. First I want to say a few words about the special tools that are needed for setting the ,/-"-- diamond and egraving, as well as for brite cutting and milgrain­ G ing the edges of the setting. The tools for cutting out the plate

46 Horological Times/June 1991 Figure 2

STONE SIZE -- MOUNTING SIZE square is sawed from the plate or any time until the diamond is The first step in making the setting is to consider the size of the in place to be beaded in. stone and the size of the mounting that the settingg will be The next step is to mark for the beads in the comers. attached to. The overall size of the square can be much larger Either one or two beads can be used in each comer, although this than the diameter of the stone, but the larger the setting with a is shown with one bead to the comer, even though Figure 2D is smaller stone the more metal must be cut away with the hand laid out for two or one bead to the comer. Using the round gravers around the stone. Also, the thickness should be consid­ bottom graver shown in Figure lB, metal can be pushed up ered, which also can be judged by the size of the stone. (I've (shown in Figure 21), which will put enough metal tight against made settings for stones up to one carat with white gold plate the edge of the diamond to hold it in place when it looks like approximately 1-1!2 mm thic.k., which seemed to be adequate.) Figure 2E. After the thickness bas been determined, a square Figure 2J shows the next step in bringing the metal should be laid out and marked with a scribe and with the over the edge of the diamond. This requires a lot of pressure with jewelers saw cut out, keeping the edge lines straight and square­ the graver, so iftbe ring is being set, it needs to be held securely sided. After this is done, lines from comer to comer can be in a ring clamp.or other holding device. I use an engraving block marked with a scribe and center-punched for drilling where the because it will hold the work securely and can be maneuvered lines intersect in the middle of the plate (see Figure 2A). Using with one hand while using the graver with the other. Figures lD, a drill about 2/3 to 3/4 the diameter of the stone, drill a hole E, and F show a beading tool with a handle, and a beading tool through the plate (Figure 2B). With a setting bur, the exact on a beading block. This is how the dome shape on the beading diameter of the diamond to be set in the flex shaft tool, cut a seat tool is maintained. With a lot of pressure against the bead in the for the diamond to set in. The depth should be .4 mm to .6 mm, beading block and a twisting motion, the end of the tool will be and the stone can be tried in the seat and removed to cut it deeper burnished to shape. Place the end of the beading tool on the if necessary and repeated till the depth is satisfactory (Figure metal that has been prepared (shown in Figure 2K) and exert 2C). As the setting will be mounted on some type of mounting pressure while rocking the tool toward a vertical position, which with white gold solder, it should be done before the diamond is will form a bead like the one shown in Figure 2L. set. In fact, it can be attached to the mounting as soon as the When all beads have been formed and burnished to the

June 1991/Horological Times 47 desired dome shape, using magnification, check to see that all stone over the stone to be formed into a bead (with beading the beads are tight. Also check that the diamond is set level in tools). This setting is the most versatile and can be used for a the setting and see that it is ready to be engraved and the brite large range of stone sizes where the pinpoint setting is limited cuts made. Figure lB shows a flat bottom graver; this can be to a few points larger or smaller stone than it is made. Small ground away as shown in Figure lG, and then sharpened. The stones (such as five point or less diamonds) are often set in bead cut-away can be done on a coarse emery wheel which will leave settings even though they are not actual flat settings. Fishtail or only about half the metal to be removed when sharpening on an pinpoint settings are usually used when the smaller stones are India or other similar sharpening stone. used as side stones or in cluster or multi-stone settings. These When the chisel point has been sharpened, there is are all set similar to flat settings because the stones are secured often a slight bur left. This can be removed by pushing the end with beads or prongs over the edge of the stone. Sometimes the of the graver in a hard wood, such as the filing block. Then the end and side beads are actually prongs, and when pushed over bottom or belly of the graver should be polished using 4/0 buff the edge of the stone are cut off with a jewelers saw and formed or emery paper cemented to a glass. The belly of the graver can into beads by use of beading tools or cup burs. be polished by pulling it over the buff paper with enough Cup burs can be used to an advantage if the metal to be pressure for the abrasive to polish it. used for a bead is over the stone and tight against it if it does not The engraving can be done by cutting the metal away require the down pressure of a beading tool, because it can cut from the beads. Two ridges can be left between the edge or away surplus metal as well as burnish it to the shape of a bead. girdle of the diamond and the edge of the setting (see Figure 2G). The last cuts should be made after re-sharpening and In the next article, setting stones of different shapes polishing the belly of the graver, which will leave the metal with and sizes will be discussed. O a mirror finish (the brite cut). The last step is to put the milgrain edge on the two ridges left (Figure 2H). Figure lH shows a milgrain tool without a handle that can be used to apply the milgrain edge. The little wheel in the end is made up of small dome impressions all around the wheel. By rolling this over the ridges, it leaves a line TECHNICALLY WATCHES of the small beads across the top of the ridges around the edge (Continued from page 45) of the setting--and in case of the one illustrated, two ridges. If room between the edge of the diamond and the edge of the setting will only permit one ridge, it is adequate. However, if a the boxwood slip. The slip is used back and forth smaller diamond or a largerr setting is used, more than one ridge underneath the pivot the same as using the grinding can be cut with the graver. I have seen as many as three ridges slips and steel burnisher to give the final polish to the milgrained, because with the room, it takes less cutting with the pivot. The boxwood slip is shown in View D, Figure 6. graver than if only one ridge is used. SECOND METHOD USED TO OTHER SETI'INGS FINISH TRAIN WHEEL PIVOTS This is only one kind of a flat or bead setting, but it is by far the Another method that can be used to finish pivots is to most difficult to set. There are flat settings in triangle shapes, use a sapphire burnisher to grind and burnish the pivot, pentagon, hexagon, and octagon, as well as square shapes. The thus eliminating the need to use the grinding slips and triangular can be set with three beads--or better yet, use two to the steel burnisher. Then, the pivot is polished with the each corner for a more secure set. The hexagon shape can be set boxwood slip and Linde A or diamantine. The sapphire with six beads; this is one bead to each angle. The octagon with burnisher cuts fast and leaves a smooth-polished sur­ eight beads also is one bead to each angle. These are all flat bead face. The surface ofthe sapphire burnisher is kept clean settings which are set in about the same manner as the flat by wiping it with a piece of paper towel which has had square. cutting oil applied to it. This method is shown in Figure Other bead-type settings are the pinpoint settings. 8. Th~ burnisher is shown being used in View A and the These are where the beads are already formed in the plate, the boxwood slip is shown in View B. NOTE: The burnisher plate is already polished, and Lbe setting only requires cutting a must be held flat on the the pivot as it is moved back and seat with a setting bur, then pushing the beads over Lbe edge of forth on the pivot; otherwise, the pivot will wind up the stone with beading tools. Sometimes the metal that is left is having front or back taper to it or it could tum out too heavy, and some metal must be cut away on the side of the having a barrel shape. This also applies to using the bead opposite the girdle of the stone. This is in order to weaken grinding slips. it enough so that it can be bent over the edge of the stone. The other flat setting has raised bars from comer to comer and can "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next be used from any size stone larger than the hole already drilled month. for a center to almost the edge of tbe plate. These plates are also pre-finished; therefore, when a seat is cut, a flat bottom graver 0 can be used to bring metal from the bar at the edge of the 48 Horological Times/June 1991 James Adams, CMW, FBHI

Expand Your Skills

ama bird says ... my young one ... it's time. .. the cream of the practical nuts and bolts professionals Mtime to test your wings ... fly, fly away to your actually working at our craft. This is hard-nosed, first­ destiny. My little birdy . .. shall we fly? Why not? You can class, can-do instruction. So, if you feel you could use do it. Maybe not far the first time, but you can soar on some inspired teaching, take part of your vacation time your new-found wings ofprofessionalism. and come to Cincinnati and get your smarts. Remember, You are probably in the hardest part of your what you learn today will be with you from now on. career as a budding watchmaker. I'll stand corrected, To the adventurous soul, let me say, study and you ARE in the hardest part of your career. Before you master the grand complication timepieces also taught at stretches the great unknown. You feel you are only the AWI Project Extend School in Cincinnati. This in­ partially trained for the task ahead. And you know ... cludes minute repeaters, quarter hour repeaters, per­ you are right. So, let me preach atcha, OK? Listen up! petual calendars, and so on. Now my little nestlings, The world of time machine fixers is much broader than fresh from exercising your wings, this will start to bring just quartz. If you limit yourself to that, you are not you into a select, small group of watchmakers which going anywhere. inhabit the cloistered Halls of Valhalla. To do these To be a well-rounded fixer oftime machines, you grand complication timepieces puts you in the position need a good, firm base in mechanical watch repair. A to restore the true and venerable timepieces oferas gone firm foundation in the lathe will start to push you by--the antiques. Now your services are going to be beyond the "mill run fixers." Starting to appear on the sought after by high-roller collectors, dealers, and horological horizon are complicated movements in the museums. I kid you not. mechanical mode, hand-wind chronographs, self-wind So, you see, my little bird, there before you lies chronographs, along with a few mechanical regular self­ a large, bright future for the "young in talent today." It winders. If you wish to capitalize on this aspect of our does demand, thm~gh, hard work and maybe even a few trade, you need a firm ground in escapement work-­ tears, but what a lusterous career for you. setting up the escapement, truing the balance spring, One of your best sources for help and informa­ and the art of adjusting the pallet fork and arbor--along tion is to associate with the old line watchmaker. Listen with all the other myriad tasks the mechanical pres­ to him and learn his ways. Too many so-called profes­ ents. Once you've mastered the basic mechanical and sionals fail totakeadvantageofthiseducational wealth. quartz techniques, you are now capable of the everyday I've talked to guys so wrapped up in quartz, they repair problems confronting you the watchmaker. couldn't see beyond their self-imposed importance. That Remember, I used the word "mastered." is sad. They are cheating themselves badly. Most watchmakers stop right there. That's fine I don't like to preach, but you think about what if you keep up with the changing technology of the I've said. If 100 read this and only one sits down and at times. Here is where AWI comes into the picture. As a least ponders the message, my "preaching" will not have member of AWI, you have at your disposal bench courses been in vain. and seminars to attend to keep you abreast of what's The more you know and can do in our diverse new and techniques not so new but as valid today as profession, the more you will get of three things: (1) yesteryear. For the advanced novice or new watch­ pleasure and acclaim, (2) a boost of the old ego, and (3) maker, AWI now has inhouse, five-day intensive bench handsome financial rewards. Number 3 wouldn't be too course training in Cincinnati at no Oet's say that again) hard to take, huh gang? Be talkin' atcha. NO tuition charge to members. These are taught by D

June 1991/Horological Times 49 SHOPTALK

Wes Door

Watch Crystal Management Part3

s we continue our discussion on crystals, it is im­ PKH ("Pocket Watch Round Crystals")-­ Aportant to know about all of their available These crystals go on from where the PHDs leave off. shapes and sizes. Then we can decide which ones we They are numbered from 39-1/2 through 70. I carry need now and which ones we can live without. On one these too but just through number 56. hand it is really nice to say to our customer that we have PA ("Known as the PA Series, these are the crystal for their watch right there in our stock. We round crystals for specific watches.")--These in­ like to carry a good stock so we can service the cus­ clude magnifier, flange, lip flange, and tens~on styles. tomer's watch now. We could ask them if they'd like to They number from PA 100 through PA 600. These come wait or come back in a few minutes. with a crystal catalog showing actual size pictures of Yes, it is nice to give this service, and sometimes each crystal. I carry at least one of each of these, and of we can fit this crystal at that moment, or at least in a course, I continually reorder when one is sold. Ifwe are very short time, if we have a complete stock. Of course doing repairs on lots of old watches, then we will have sometimes we need to order the correct crystal and our a need for these. customer must wait--but hopefully for only a short time. PK ("Low Dome Rounds")--For thin watches. These are made from 8.4 mm to 12.7 mm and size 1/4 to 39. I have one of each but not used too much. STOCKING ROUND CRYSTALS KT ("Kleer Tite")--Sizes 3 through 32. Great Until I wrote this article, I had no idea of the number of for round LCD watches. Nice looking with a beveled crystals that I stocked. The followingGermanow-Simon edge, but do not use them very fast. Yes, I have one of Company's terminology and abbreviations will be used each from size 8 through 32. to explain the types of crystals, with a notation of the TT ("Thin Tite")--Sizes 15.0 mm to 36.0 mm. ones I stock. These crystals come with one white and one yellow AT ("Angle Tite")-Available from 15.1 through reflector ring. These have a flat top and beveled edge. I 35.0 mm These come with one yellow and one white have one of each. reflector ring(tension ring). I stock one of each of these. TR ("Thin Ringless")--Sizes 15.0 mm to 36.0 We don't use too many but this style seems to be used mm. Like "TT" except without reflector rings. I have one more lately. With a thick beveled edge, it is a nice­ of each. Do not use very many since I also have the "TT looking crystal. Thin Tite" assortment. EW ("Extra Wide Reflector Rings")--Sizes DT ("Diver Tite")--Sizes 24.5 to 34.9 mm. These 14.0 to 35.0 mm. These are not crystals, just wide come with one white reflector tension ring. I have one of reflector rings, one yellow and one white. These fit all each of these, although I do not sell very many. types of reflector ring crystals. Although not used too ET ("Ever Tite")--Sizes 24.5 to 34.5 mm. These often, they can be a lifesaver when we need this extra come with one white and one yellow reflector ring. I wide ring. I stock one ofeach ofthese numbers; however, stock numbers 26.3 through 33.6 mm. This is an excel­ there are a lot of slow-moving ones in this assortment. lent one to stock with one each. PHD ("Plastic High Dome")--Available from FT ("Flat Top")--Sizes 8.4 mm to 16.7 mm. 8.4 mm to Number 39 (in round crystal terminology). These are for small round ladies and is a good assort­ Listed in millimeters from 8.4 through 12.7, and then ment to have if we are taking in a number of older sizes 1/4 through 39. I carry 1/4 dozen ofeach ofthis very watches. We are not using as many lately but we do have popular number. this assortment. We stock one of each number.

SO Horological Times/June 1991 Figure 1 r PKH for POCKET WATCHES CFT LADIES XHO EXTRA Hl-OOllE PK LO-DOME PHO/LT w1lh slep lor easy ltlhng -FLAT TOP lor c ro wned dials ''ulh Slep tor tor Ihm watches H DOME/LOK~ITE PKH 39 1/J lo 70 CFT 8 •mm lo ] 0 Jmm l!'Hy Mhng w 1lh sll!'p lor e"1 s y "111ng with "'HI 101 easy 1+111no With Slep For Easy Filling (37 7 lo 57 1mml PHO 8 4mm lo 12 7mm XHO 18 to 35111 PK 8 4mm lo 12 7mm Wider Sidewall PHO 11• 10 43 f12 8 lo 40 Omml f24 1mm IO JS 2mmJ {PK 'I• lo 39 (12 8 lo 37 4mm) PHO/LT 8 4.43 (84 mm to 400 mm) - 8 , HC lor HUHTIHG CASE COE (SAVONFTTE) DIAMOND EDGE HC 15 to 52 MT MAGNl-TITE COE A •mm lo J• 6mm with nngs 122 2mm lo 45 7mm) ~ E~lra Large Magml1er while & yellow OT OIVER-TITE WATEAPl100F TT 15 Omm to 36 Omm <:- ::> DOUBLE. tt-t lCK w1lh rings f I t tOmm 9radu•hons1 @ W MICON WAIE.RPROO~ while & yellow ET EYR·TITE ro, q11uqv5 PT PRISM-TITE with ru~g WATERPROOF MT 27 5mm lo 35 Omm OT 24 Smm 10 )4 9mm W8 IO 100 11 / IQmm graduationsl IO ;6l'mm1 w1lh rings 11 : 10mm gritduahonl) 11 11,.,..m ~•t>P <.lylt> 11n9s ~ w1lh corresponding cenlerposl while & yellow wholt> & vellow dis lances ET 150mm to 360mm PT IS()mm IO J60mm " A" WATERPROOF CRYSTALS ST ITEJI. TITE {1 tOmm graduahons1 t 1 10mm g•adual•Ot'ISI WATERPROOF FOR SPECIFIC WATCHES w1thstep rmgs whole & yellow ..., ~,,,-====--...~ 1 mm Thin ST 150mmlo345mm ~ MAGNIFIER FLANGE VT VERl-THIN EW EXTRA-WIDE RINGS f1 J1 0mm graduahonsl ~ CLEAR lor Ullra Thin 14 Omm lo 35 Omm ~r,,,.---..., watches VT J lo J2 Fils all GS ring slyle cryslals LIP FLANGE (14 6mm ro JJ Omm) Use where wide ring is FOR RING STYLt 1 6mm Thin 0 required While and yellow G A F FLAT F!VICY KT KLEER-TITE CLEAR tor Thm QI without side walls. AT ANGLE-TITE Round walches SEIKO STYLE ~ KT31o32 Flar 1 op-Angle side ~ TR THIN-RINGLESS MG MINERAL GLASS WT WIDE·TITE ~~330mm) CT CURV-TITE step style rings W1!h e .. 1ra wide lor very Thin watches Slight dome w1lh polished For Super Thin Watches while & yellow While & yellow rings nol requiring rings bevel edge MG 120mmlo360mm AT 15 Omm lo 35 Omm 1 Wre!!:J5mm lo319mm TR 15 Omm lo 36 Omm TMG THICK MINERAL GLASS CT18 Orrim lo .l60mm (in / 10 mm gradualioos) 11 10mm gr1dual1onsl (1 110mm graduahons) (2/ 1Dmm Graduations) TMG 26 0 - 36 O in .5mm graduations (2t 10mm graduahons) 1 mm lhin I 0401

Illustration courtesy of Germanow-Simon Corp.

CDE ("Diamond Edge")--Sizes 8.4 mm to 16. 7 hand clearance. By placing a drop of oil on the end mm. These have a faceted apppearingedge. Ifwe choose of the minute hand, and turning the crown, we can ob­ this (instead of the "flat top" crystal), then we must be serve the oil mark on the crystal; that is, if it is rubbing. sure to have enough hand clearance. Some of these do Sometimes we can hear the hand rubbing as we turn the not have enough clearance. The old "Electro Seal" hands. Incidentally, we'd better put a drop of oil on the Company probably had the best clearance in this style center (cannon pinion) area also, and check for an oil ccystal, but they are not making these now. Both "Stella's mark on the center of the crystal, which would indicate Diadem" and "G.S. CDE" are nice-looking crystals, but our crystal is too low. do not have much hand clearance in this one style These above round crystals are the ones I carry crystal. in stock, which cover most of the round crystals that are Of course, if these were a quartz watch, there available from this G.S. chart shown at Figure 1. would probably be no clearance problem. MG ("Mineral Glass")--Sizes 12.0 mm to 36.0 STOCKING FANCY CRYSTALS mm, with 1/lOth mm graduations. These are round F ("Flat Fancy")--The fact that these are "flat" glass (not plastic) crystals. These are nice to have, as indicates they are for quartz watches. We could stock they fit many of the quartz watches. I stock one of each. one each of these, or we coµld choose to order as needed. I would suggest (if not one· of each) that you ask your They come in various sizes and shapes. We used to be supplier to send you one each of the best numbers. able to lay the old crystal over the crystal pictured in the TMG ("Thick Mineral Glass")--Sizes 26.0 to G.S. catalog and select the correct one, as the illustra­ 36.0 mm. Some of the new quartz watches (that do not tions were actual size. However, this is not always true. take the "MG"s) use this thicker crystal. These come in Other plastic "Cylinder Fancy Crystals" are .5 mm graduations, so we might want to stock all of available, and may be selected from a very large crystal these. Any "skips" would leave a 1 mm gap between catalog. They fit older styles. I stock one ofeach of these, numbers. which seems important since we se_rvice lots of older HC ("Hunting Case" Crystals)--Sizes 15 to watches. We are not.using as many now, but still, I stock 52. These thin plastic pocket watch crystals are de­ at least one of each. signed to fit hunting style watch cases, I have this assortment and use only when the original glass crystal FACTORY CRYSTALS is not available, and the customer has put their stamp Generally, a favored method is to buy and install genu­ of approval on the change. Height is very important in ine crystals ifavailable. Many are not, so we need these these, as we need enough height for hand clearance, and "generic" crystals. at the same time the crystal must fit under the "case Crystals can be a big portion ofour business and dome" and allow the dome to properly close. very profitable if our crystal department is handled This is a good place to use the old-timers' test for properly. Good luck! D

June 1991/Horological Times Sl TIME LOCKS

David A. Christianson, CMW, CMBHI Copyright ©1991

SARGENT & GREENLEAF TIMELOCK MOVEMENTS PART II S & G NEW MODEL, SMALL TYPE

he very latest standard timelock Tmovements used by Sargent & Greenleaf (now of Nicholasville, KY) are the new model, small type AR152-1, and the 1990 model. Both movements are used in timelock cases similar to the one in Figure 1. The timelock cases vary depend­ ing on the size and type of unlocking mechanism employed, but the movements used are the same. Both movements are Swiss-made. The #AR152-1 was manufactured in the early 1980s (Figure 2); the 1990 model is the most current movement available (Figure 3).

DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURES Disassembly is the same for both types of the new model movements: 1. Remove the two screws on the clear plastic escapement cover and re­ move the cover. Thedialpointerwillcome off with the cover (Figure 4).

figure 2A. S &G new model movement #AR152- Figure 3A. S & G new model movement, 1990 1 , Swiss made and manufactured in the 1980s. model, Swiss-made, with no identifying model number. The number 8911 appears on the upper plate, which may or may not be an identifying model number.

Figure 1. The Series 6300 Sargent & Greenleaf timelock case and its unlocking mechanism with three movements. Figure 28. Side view of the AR152-1 . Figure 38. Side view of the 1990 model. 52 Horological Times/June 1991 Figure 5. Removing the escapement platform Rgure 6. #AR152 movement disassembled and (retaining screws are under the bottom plate) revealing a 5-wheel train (excluding the escape while holding back the train with fingers. wheeQ. Figure 4. New model movement with dial and cover removed and escapement exposed.

2. Remove the dial screw and dial (Figure 4). 3. Loosen the platform escape­ ment mounting screws (located on the back of the lower movement plate) one half tum each. 4. Hold back the main train of wheels with your thumb while holding the movement between your thumb and fore­ finger (Figure 5). 5. Remove the platform mount­ ing screws and slide out the platform es­ capement. 6. Let the movement train run down by controlling the speed release with your thumb braking on the fifth wheel (Figure 6). Note these trains have five train wheels not counting the escape wheel. 7. Remove the mainspring by removing its three mounting screws. Hold­ ing the winding arbor in a bench key, rotate the barrel clockwise to disengage Figure 7. Rear view of the AR152 model showing the inner terminal of the spring from the the brass mainspring barrel. winding arbor (Figure 6). 8. All five train wheels can now be removed and inspected for any wear or This wheel must be removed and Figure 8. Rear view of the 1990 model showing possible damage to pivots, teeth, or pin­ "drycleaned" only in order for the friction its plastic mainspring barrel. ions. clutch to function properly. If cleaned 9. Remove the mainspring from ultrasonically, the wheel will function the barrel. properly for a while and then suddenly REASSEMBLY PROCEDURES 10. Remove the balance from the allow the movement to rapidly unwind. Reassembly is quite straightforward and platform for cleaning. Both movement types 2. The plastic mainspring barrel will not present any surprises. A quality have "shockproof' balance jewel assem­ of the 1990 model must not be cleaned watch lubricant should be used on the blies which must be disassembled for in­ ultrasonically. The barrels can deteriorate balance and escape wheel pivots. Three or spection, cleaning, and pegging. in the ultrasonic solutions. four escape wheel teeth should be lightly Care must be taken to completely oiled with watch lubricant also. The pallet CLEANING PROCEDURES disassemble these movements and thor­ fork pivots need not be lubricated. The rest The cleaning procedures on these move­ oughly peg all pivot holes. of the train should be lubricated with a ments follow standard acceptable watch The· wheel teeth pinion leaves light clock oil; the mainspring lubed with cleaning practices with two very notable and pivots should be passed through pith­ a light clock mainspring grease. ~ubricate exceptions: wood to remove any lingering contami­ the ratchet wheel click with a touch of 1. The unique third wheel (fric­ nant that is not always readily visible. mainspring grease also, but do not lubri­ tion wheel clutch) of the AR152 move­ Don't forget to clean and wipe dry the cate the pressure spring on the third wheel ment must not be cleaned ultrasonically. mainspring. (friction wheel clutch).

June 1991/Horological Times 53 Figure 9. The 1990 model movement showing its 5-wheel train and escapement. Compare with the AR152 in Figures 6 and 10. Figure 10. AR152 movement revealing the inno­ vative third wheel.

COMPARISON STUDY 9), but the most interesting feature is the OF THE MOVEMENTS third wheel in the AR 152-1 model (Figure Flgure11. AcloserviewoftheAR152thirdwheel, A quick look at the two movements re­ 10). Figure 11 shows the lower side of this apparently designed to protect the train from a veals two pieces that are the same size third wheel. The pressure springs allow sudden release of power, as in a mainspring and design yet entirely different. The this wheel to slip safely if a mainspring breaking or a train wheel pivot breaking. AR152-1 (Figure 2A) has a different regu­ suddenly breaks or if a train pivot breaks. lator arm. The 1990 model (Figure 3A) Apparently this innovative design be removed before the vault is locked up uses a microscrew adjustment on its regu­ feature wasn't as important as first thought, for the night. lator. The AR152 has a brass mainspring because the newer version doesn't have To remove an overwind, simply barrel (Figure 7); the newer 1990 model this feature (Figure 9). hold back the main train of wheels with uses (what else?) plastic (Figure 8). your thumb and forefinger as in Figure 5. Looking on the inside we see the TO REMOVE AN OVERWIND Remove the platform escapement and al­ perforated wheels of the 1990 model (Figure If all the movements are accidentally wound low the train to run down by releasing further than the desired opening time, the power by braking your thumb against the vault will open later than wanted. If this is fifth wheel (as when releasing power) until going to be a problem, this overwind must the train runs down and the dial pin stops any further release of power (dial indicat­ ing less than zero) (Figure 12). Replace the platform escapement and wind to the proper opening time.

RESERVE POWER Setting up the reserve power on these new models of Sargent & Greenleaf is different than most other timelock movements. With the dial removed and all power released from the movement, re­ place the dial and position it so that the indicator points to zero (Figure 3A). Wind the movement so that the dial indicates about 18 hours (Figure 13). Remove the dial and reposition it so that it indicates zero hours. When the movement runs down (i.e., the dial pin stops the movement from running down any further as in Figure 12), the moveme.nt will still have a reserve wind on the mainspring of several hours. This will provide enough kinetic energy .to: (1) start the movement once an initial wind is put on the movement, and (2) trip the unlocking mechanism of the timelock Figure 12. When the dial indicates zero, the mechanism in order to allow unlocking of movement is still running but the dial pin (shown the safe or vault door. next to the winding arbor) is in a position to unlock the timelock mechanism. In this photo the dial in· Next time we'll see how this un­ dicates less than zero running time. At this posi· Figure 13. When setting up reserve power on locking of the vault door occurs and what tion a stop pin under the dial engages a pin on the these new model movements, one winds the these timelock mechanisms look like in upper plate and the movement stops running, movementto about 18 hours and then repositions the door. O although there is still power on the mainspring. the dial to indicate zero hours running time.

54 Horological Times/June 1991 CLOCKMAKING BITS By J.M. HuckabH CMC, FBHI Aobat...

LANTERN PINIONS and EYE LOUPES & MAGNIFIERS

Q. Where can I obtain material to repair lantern pinions? Q. I'm having trouble seeing my work. What Is a How arethe old wires removed and what holds the new ones good vision aid magnifier for the clockmaker? In place? Is It necessary to harden the new pieces? A About 50 years ago I posed the same question to an A Let's discuss the lantern pinion and how to rebuild old watchmaker. He said, "The one you can see through the one. These pinions run many years without serious wear. Clocks best." Today I know no better answer. showing significant wear may have other problems--possibly an What is available? A multitude of aids, each one is the abrasive dust, rust, a fly-fan too tight on its shaft, an overpow­ best if you can see and work best with it. I'll relate some of my ered recoiling escapement, etc. experiences. I wear trifocal glasses, but am blessed with being When the pinion is otherwise sound and if space able to read without glasses. permits, I like to move the pinion, or companion wheel, to engage I have the Behr Spectacle Loupe with dual lens, a head a new position on the pinion wires. visor with dual power lens, a special lens in the upper left side of I remove wires with strong needle-nose pliers. Catch my eyeglasses' left eye, a multitude of single and double plastic the wire and push it out via its entry hole. Measure a sample to eye loupes, and a coupie pair of drugstore close-up reading determine what the replacement is to be. Most old American glasses for older folk like me. In addition, I've been through the clocks used soft wires, while some more expensive clocks used trials of many more devices. So what do I use? Mostly nothing. harder wires. We should try to use materials comparable to the When doing lathe work I use the lowest power plastic lens drug­ original pieces. store glasses to keep oil and chips out of my eyes. They only Bulk pinion wire assortments may be purchased from magnify very slightly and work great! various sources. Often you will find soft pinion wires arethe same For a bit more magnification, I use a three or four inch diameter as a paper clip; a harder wire is easier to work. focus plastic loupe. I cut away most of the plastic sides so that I I slip the bulk wire in a lathe chuck with about 1-1 /2 can look through or around the lens without removing it from my length overhang and cut a ring around the wire at required length. eye. For the most part, I'm able to see everything through a Advance the stock and cut additional rings. We now have a stick seven power glass, even to the smallest watch parts. of six or eight pieces. Load the pieces in a shroud hole and break So my case Is probably not typical to any other 69-year­ away the stick. The bulk material serves as a handle to insert the old workman. Again, "the one you can see through best" is the individual pieces. Moderately hard wire will break easily and one I recommend. Among my friends in the craft, no two use the really offsets any reason for using the softer material. same visual aids. Individual wire length should be such that it bottoms in One of the most important aids is to learn what to look the distant shroud and ends in the midregion of the near shroud. for, how to look, and what not to look for. Read the work like a The near end must be below the surface of the near shroud. book, line for line. Do not be concerned about the areas that are . The job has been easy up to this point. We must now out of focus and keep the workpiece in motion to capitalize on close the mouth of the entry hole of the near shroud. It's probably light reflections. best to support the shroud over a "V" notch in a large bench block Making a recommendation, I would urge you to try­ to stake the holes closed. The objective is not to close the hole before-you-buy if at all possible. Observe what others use, and but to raise up a burr in the hole mouth to retain the wire. It doesn't possibly examine their aids. There will be a unique glass that is require very much force to slip the shrdud on the arbor and spoil just right for you. O our job. I use a three-sided punch, as found in most watchmak­ ers' staking sets, and strike in the hole. This gives three small burrs which are sufficient to secure the wires in place. Be cautious to duplicate the original wire diameter. Very slight diameter error can result in serious gearing problems. If you have a subject that you would like J.M. Huckabee to Use of the "stick of wires" technique makes repair of address In a future article, send It to: •Ask Hutk, • c/o lantern pinions much easier than most workmen ever imagined. Horological nmes, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211. It's really an easy job that naturally turns out a nice result.

June 1991/Horological Times 55 A JAPANESE CUCKOO

BY ROBERT L. MACOMBER, CMC, CMBHI

or many clockmakers, the cuckoo clock is plate thickness is one millimeter as is usually found Fone which they really don't care to repair or on modern-day cuckoo clocks. The time train differs restore. In fact, many shops refuse to take in these from a typical cuckoo clock only in the escapement clocks for repair. Yet in the last few years, the retail which has pin pallets. On the other hand, the strike price of cuckoo clocks has soared. For example, a train design is unique and will be described in detail. one-day cuckoo which could be purchased for about $75.00 in the United States several years ago now coststheconsumerabout$150.00to$200.00. When the replacement cost is pointed out to the customer, Figure 1 he or she is often willing to spend a considerable amount in repair. Many times the clock has a senti­ mental value to the customer who either purchased it overseas or was given the clock by a member of the family. Thus, it behooves the modern-day clock shop to reconsider their policy of not repairing cuckoo clocks. Another reason for reconsidering is that AWI has an excellent bench course on cuckoo clock repair. So, technical training is available and repair income can 'be increased by repairing these clocks. There are three different types of cuckoos usually encountered in the repair shop--the tradi­ tional German design with musical, quail, and ani­ mation variations; the Russian cuckoo; and the Japanese cuckoo. To the consumer, the most obvi­ ous difference between these types is the striking sequence. Most familiar is the German design with its "bong-cuckoo" strike sound. The Russian version is usually "cuckoo-bong," while the Japanese ver­ sion is just "cuckoo." Generally, the three types described above follow a traditional movement design; that is, two trains held in place with two plates and four pillars. Recently a Japanese cuckoo was brought into the shop for repair which had a rather unusual movement design. It had two trains and two plates, but only two pillars, one of which was hollow to carry the center wheel shaft! Made by Ml-KEM Clock Manufacturing Co., Ltd. of Japan, it had a very well­ made case with a gloss lacquer finish (Figure 1 ). The 56 Horological Times/June 1991 Figure 2

MOVEMENT PARTS IDENTIFICATION GW-T - Great Wheel, Time After disassembly, the parts were laid out as shown CW&S - Center Wheel & Shaft in Figure 2. Each part is identified by the letters in P&CA - Pallet & Crutch Assembly the white circles. Starting at the left and going down, SW - Second Wheel, Time the parts are as follows: EW - Escape Wheel PS - Pendulum Suspension First Column BH - Bird Holder Fifth & Sixth Columns MW - Minute Wheel BP - Back Plate RH - Rack Hook DCA - Double Cam Assembly LL - Strike Lift Lever B - Butterfly PH - Pendulum Hanger UL - Unlocking Lever with Spring SLLA - Strike Locking Lever Assembly Second Column GPW - Gathering Pallet Wheel IW - Intermediate Wheel GP - Gathering Pallet R - Rack SSW - Strike Stop Wheel HW&S - Hour Wheel & Snail F- Fan GW-S - Great Wheel, Strike Third & Fourth Columns LBLA - Left Bellows Lift Arm FP - Front Plate RBLA - Right Bellows Lift Arm June 1991/Horological Times 57 Figure 3

DESCRIPTION AND FUNCTION OF CRITICAL STRIKE COMPONENTS A detailed description of certain strike train compo­ nents and their functions will be helpful in under­ standing the strike operation.

Strike Locking Lever Assembly (SLLA) As shown in Figures 2 and 3, this assembly consists of four parts--A, B, C, & D. The lower Part A has a notched section on the left of the mounting hub and a gradually larger section with a rounded end on the right. The rounded end is of double thickness to provide extra weight. Part A is mounted on the center shaft behind the butterfly (B) as shown in Figure 3 Figure4 and is held in place with an E-clip. Part B is a connecting wire between Parts A & C. Part C is an adjustable connecting arm and Part D is a shaft, shown in Figure 3 is the right angle portion of Part F threaded on one end and containing a lift lever on the which extends into the strike train. When the train is other end. Part D goes through the movement from in the "stopped" condition, this right angle portion front to rear and is held in place with an E-clip at the gets in the way of the pin on the strike stop wheel rear plate. (SSW). At the ve:ry top of the unlocking lever (UL) is The function of this assembly is to lock the another right angle portion which pushes the bird strike train in the running condition until the correct holder so that the bird door opens during striking. hour count has been completed. The unlocking lever (UL) is mounted on a stud on the rear plate and is held in place with an E­ Butterfly (B) clip. A small spring is mounted on this stud and its This part, of rectangular shape, has two lift pins in arms hook onto the unlocking lever and the move­ each end as shown in Figure 2. The center hole is ment plate. This spring is critical for proper opera­ used to mount the butterfly on the center shaft tion of the unlocking lever. where it is held in place with a hex nut to allow The function of the unlocking lever (UL) is to adjustment of the strike train. unlock the strike train and push the bird holder so The function of this part is to lift the unlock­ that the bird goes through the door. ing lever (UL) and allow the strike operation to start. HOUR STRIKE OPERATION Unlocking Lever (UL) The center wheel and shaft (CW&S) has a single This lever is shown most clearly in Figure 3. It lifting stud on the rear of the center wheel. This stud consists of Parts E and F. On Part E, which is the raises the strike lift lever (LL) which in turn raises the lower section, there is a weighted circle on the rack hook (RH) allowing the rack (R) to drop onto the bottom and a lift lever on the top. Part E is connected snail for the correct hour count. Simultaneously, as to Part F with a rivet which allows Part E to pivot on the rack (R) drops, the strike locking lever assembly Part F. (SLLA) is released so that the notched section of Part Part F has a limiting pin which projects A is raised. The front view of the movement shown in through the hole in Part E, as shown in Figure 3. Also Figure 4 shows the· lift lever, rack, and snail.

58 Horological Times/June 1991 Reassembly of this clock does not require any special placement of the wheels of the two trains. All adjustments are done after assembly by loosening and tightening the hex nuts described in the article. This is best done on a movement stand with power on the strike train. There are other versions of the Japanese cuckoo which more closely resemble the German design. The MI-KEM design, however, is unique and quite easy to repair. O

Figure 5

On the rear of the center shaft (Figure 3) is the butterfly (8) and the strike locking lever assembly Support (SLLA). The butterfly releases the unlocking lever (UL) allowing the strike train to start. There is no warning. At the same time the strike locking lever The AWi-ELM TRUST assembly (SLLA) is activated, the limiting pin on the unlocking lever (UL) falls into the notch on Part A of SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM the strike locking lever assembly. This holds the unlocking lever in a position to allow the strike train to run. During the run, the gathering pallet (GP) is BY SENDING YOUR gathering up the rack (R) as the hours are counted. As the hour count is completed, the rack (R) pushes OLD WATCH BATTERIES Part D of the strike locking lever assembly (SLLA) which in turn raises the notch clear of the unlocking TO THE lever (UL) limiting pin. The unlocking lever (UL) then drops into the path of the pin in the strike stop wheel (SSW), thus stopping the strike operation. AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE HALF HOUR STRIKE OPERATION 3700 Harrison Avenue The half hour strike is similar to the hour strike se­ Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 quence except the rack (R) is not activated. The but­ terfly (B) releases the unlocking lever (UL) and the strike train starts running. However, Part A of the strike lock:mg lever assembly (SLLA) is not raised to catch the limiting pin on the unlocking lever (UL), Has Your Address Changed? therefore only a single strike occurs for the half hour Please Notify "cuckoo." AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE 3700 Harrison Avenue BELLOWS OPERATION Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 The shaft of the gathering pallet contains the gather­ ing pallet on the front of the movement. The shaft ------extends through the rear plate and is threaded on the end. Mounted onto this threaded shaft is the OLD ADDRESS double cam assembly (DCA) which is held in place with a hex nut to allow for adjustment. As the strike train operates, the double cam revolves moving the City, State & Zip ______left and right bellows lift arms to activate the bellows. The lift arms each have a roller which rolls on the double cam, alternately raising and lowering the NEW ADDRESS bellows tops to produce the "cuckoo" sound. The bellows of this clock do not contain Address------weights on their tops as is the case with the German City, State & Zip ______and Russian versions. Instead, the bellows close with a spring as shown in Figure 5. L------J June 1991/Horological Times 59 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAI(ING Mike Neville

Oklahoma State University Okmulgee, OK

"We're in the business of building watchmakers-­ Jarochowski is a native of Poland who fled his from scratch." homeland 10 years ago for freedom in the United States. Beginning with a variety of untested base materi­ He is an engineering graduate of the Warsaw Technologi­ als (students), Wit Jarochowski's challenge is to critically cal College of Precision Mechanics, and was employed in shape, refine, and polish those students into skilled and the micro-instrumentation industry for 15 years before competent craftsmen, i.e., watchmakers. fleeing. He holds several engineering patents. Jarochow­ Jarochowski supervises the watch and micro­ ski is now a naturalized U.S. citizen. instrument repair program of study at Oklahoma State "My engineering background influences my teach­ University in Okmulgee. His six-semester, college-level ing," Jarochowski admits." Although my background is in program focuses upon the entire spectrum of watch/ instrumentation, I am intrigued by the watchmaking pro­ clock/ micro-instrumentation repair technology. fession. I try to instill in my students some of the excite­ "Seldom do we ever enroll a student with any ment I discover in the engineering mechanics of watches previous watch repair experience," he says. "So the course, and clocks. Understanding the basics of engineering helps of necessity, begins with the fundamentals." students become even better watchmakers." "I introduce students to their new career by first OSU I Okmulgee's watch repair curricula offers teaching them to use the micro tools of this industry," courses in horological technology, general watch repair, Jarochowski noted. "After developing some expertise, advanced watch repair, electronic watch repair, compli­ students progress in measured, calculated steps to learn cated watch and micro-instrument repair, and clock re- diagnosis and repair of multifunctional watches and so­ pair. phisticated instrumentation," Jarochowski says. First semester students develop basic skills re­ Blended with the technical courses in watch re­ quired in this industry--hand and power tool operations, pair/micro-instrument repair are courses in computer­ sharpening, polishing procedures, safety practices and aided design, information processing, marketing, busi­ hazardous materials handling. ness principles, business management, and a typical slate "I work with each student to develop his or her of collegiate general education requirements in English, critical eye/hand coordination," Jarochowski says. "Course math, science, and humanities. projects begin with fairly large-scale mechanical projects OSU /Okmulgee's watch repair program, founded to develop dexterity. Each succeeding project then is in the early 1950s, has evolved from a series of basic watch smaller in scale." repair courses into a comprehensive, collegiate program. In subsequent semesters students learn the theory Today, graduates enter the work force with a and function of various escapements (antique, cylinder, variety of skills that meet employers' needs in a highly duplex, and lever), hairspring manipulation, jeweling, diversified market. automatic mechanisms, quartz and electronic watches, "I'm convinced the quality technical education we tuning fork watches, chronographs, stopwatches, and are offering today is what industry seeks, and that our repeaters. Some students prefer to concentrate on clock graduates are well prepared to meet those challenges," repair. Jarochowski reports. "In my last conversation with Ernest In micro-instrumentation courses students are Moody, one of Oklahoma's most respected jewelers and introduced to a variety of micro-instruments found in an enthusiastic supporter of this watchmakil\1g program industry. before his recent death, he told me, 'You produce gradu­ · This Fall Jarochowski will teach a new instrumen- ates with 10 years' experience.' tation course especially for electronics technology stu­ "I accepted that as a positive affirmation of OSU I dents enrolled in the college's new avionics technology Okmulgee's program from a nationally recognized leader program. in our industry." "I am fortunate that the college continues to up- 60 Horological Times/June 1991 date our instructional inventory," Jarochowski explains. "Just recently I ordered the latest mechanical watch ana­ PROJECT EXTEND lyzer to complement other test equipment in the lab. Our graduates must be familiar with new technologies and PROJECT EXTEND PROVIDES SELF-HELP EDU­ new analytical and test procedures if they are to be an CATIONAL OPPORTUNITIES FOR: 1) The newly asset in this industry. trained individual seeking to gain speed and profitabil­ "Video tapes produced by AWI also are impor­ ity. 2) The marginal or self-trained individual seeking to tant instructional aids we use extensively in the classroom fill gaps in their training. 3) The experienced craftsman and labs." seeking to extend skills in certain specialties. An added plus for OSU I Okmulgee watch repair In order to provide access to a maximum num­ students is the jewelry manufacturing/ repair program ber of A WI members, there will be no tuition for the that is adjacent to the watch repair labs. programs offered at the A WI Extension Development "Many of our watchmaking graduates enroll in Center. Attendees will be responsible for their transpor­ jewelry courses, and jewelry students study watchmak­ tation and room and board. Motel rooms are available ing, a sensible educational approach for students consid­ for approximately $50 per day; most courses last five ering working or eventually owning a retail jewelry busi­ days. A limited number of gronts will be available for ness." those who need help with room and board. To update his own skills and knowledge, Jarcr chowski recently traveled to Switzerland to visit with PROJECT EXTEND'S TENTATIVE SCHEDULE faculty at the famed Watchmaking of Switzerland Train­ The course schedule presented here is TENTATIVE. ing and Education programme (WOSTEP) sponsored by However, those interested in specific programs are the Swiss watchmaking industry. encouraged. to register now. Class sizes are limited and "The support the Swiss government and the watch­ registrations will be accepted by earliest postmark or making industry provides that institution is oveiwhelm­ fax date. Each class requires a registration fee of $50 ing. Watchmaking there is considered an art, and watch­ which will be refunded when you attend the class. For makers regarded as craftsmen. I will be pleased when the specific course and registration details, please contact: United States acknowledges this nation's watchmakers AWI CENTRAL, 3700 HARRISON AVE., CINCIN­ with that much reverence." NATI, OH 45211; (513) 661-3838; FAX (513) 661- In Switzerland, he also toured the internationally 3131. renowned watchmaking firm of Patek Philippe and the ETA watch factory. 1991 "Both manufacturers were interested in what we were doing in Oklahoma and agreed to send us some Sept.16-20 Jewelry Repair Marshall Richmond movements and technical manuals." Sept. 23-27 Clock Repair III David Christianson (restoration) What excites Wit Jarochowski most about teach­ Sept. 30-0ct. 4 Clock Repair I James Lubic ing? "Every day I can see progress in my students. That's (beginners) my greatest reward." Oct. 7-11 Clock Repair II Roland Iverson Jarochowski says there are several ongoing les­ (advanced) Oct. 14-18 Clock Repair VI John Nagle sons he feels strongly must be reinforced throughout the (striking & chiming clocks) curricula. Oct. 21-25 Quartz I (beginners) Gerald Jaeger "First, I am concerned that students continue to Oct. 28-Nov. 1 Quartz II (advanced) Robert Bishop develop more precision in workmanship as they progress. Nov. 4-8 Watch Repair I James Lubic (staffing, poising, and timing) I stress they must acknowledge.cleanliness and accuracy Nov.11-15 Watch Repair II Harold Herman as ever-present agents in their quest to become a watch­ (hairspring vibrating and finishing) maker. "i teach the process of troubleshooting as per­ 1992 formed by highly skilled technicians, systematically learn­ Jan. 13·17 Clock Repair V James Lubic ing to conduct appropriate research and review docu­ (prep. and completion of CMC exam) mentation before charging blindly into an unfamiliar watch Jan. 20-24 Watch Repair VII James Lubic movement. (prep. and completion of CMW exam) "Students also must learn that a true craftsman is Feb. 10-14 Quartz III Alice Carpenter (prep. and completion of CMEW exam) equally curious about determining why a part failed as in Feb. 17-21 Watch Repair III James Lubic replacing the part. (complicated) "But most importantly, I teach ethics," farochow­ March2-6 Lathe I (beginners) James Lubic ski says. "Our customers must trust us. What happens March9-13 Lathe II (advanced) Archie Perkins March 16-20 Watch Case Repair Marshall Richmond between the time a technician opens and closes a watch March23-27 Clock Case Repair James Williams case is a matter of conscience between the watchmaker and himself. But, I believe the best watchmakers are ethically sound." o

June 1991/Horological Times 61 ASSOCIATION NEWS I

ARIZONA Friday afternoon a full house was on hand to The Arizona Clockmakers & Watchmakers Guild met hear Scott Chou of Seiko speak on the AGS System and on April 16, 1991 for their last meeting ofthe fiscal year. other subjects. Friday night the annual auction was Guests were Nancy Wessels and G.E. (Robby) Robinson. held. The following officers were elected for the 1991- On Saturday the programs included Paul W. 1992 year: Tom White, president; Jim Phillips, vice Nordt III of Guertin Brothers, Marvin Whitney, and president; Sal DiStefano, secretary; Bernard Guhin, Virginia and Bill Davis of Davis Supply Co. A tour ofthe treasurer; and Tom Baggett, Jim Pickard, and Bob Guertin Brothers Plant was held in the afternoon, Richard, directors. followed by the Horological Association ofVirginia (HAV) The program for the evening was a talk by Board of Directors meeting. The newly elected officers Representative Nancy Wessels of the Arizona House of for the HAV are: Wayne Simpson, president; Herb Representatives. Hollander, first vice president; Rodney Graves, second vice president; Rick Finks, secretary; and Stan Palen, treasurer. A social hour and banquet was held that eve- ning. NEW JERSEY Archie Perkins presented a program on Antique At the April meeting of the Watchmakers Association of Watch Restoration Sunday morning, followed by Jim New Jersey, Inc., Albert Stone from the New Hermes Harding's presentation "Clock Pivots From Start to Company brought and demonstrated a computerized Finish." engraving machine. He explained in detail how this Next year's convention is tentatively scheduled machine can take care oflarge and small engravingjobs for the first weekend in April in Richmond, VA. on any kind of material. The annual anniversary meeting was held on May 14th. After a short business meeting, the main events were a buy, swap and sell, as well as a catered buffet and an auction. The annual dinner dance is scheduled for UPCOMING CONVENTIONS November 16 at the San Carlos in Lyndhurst, NJ.

North Carolina Watchmakers Association Annual Convention NEW YORK May 31 - June 2, 1991 Jonathan Frankfort, Senior General Manager of the Holiday Inn North -- Charlotte, NC Material Department ofCoserv-Seiko Watch Company, addressed The Horological Society of New York on the topic "Seiko Material Sales" at their April 1, 1991 Nebraska & South Dakota Jewelers Association meeting. 86th Annual Convention In his talk, Mr. Frankfort painted a broad August 23-25, 1991 picture of the administrative aspects of the Seiko opera­ Kearney Ramada Inn -- Kearney, NE tion which includes all ofits affiliate companies--Pulsar, Lorus, Jaz, and Lassale. He distributed a series of technical sheets on bracelet sizing, battery guide, re­ New York State Watchmalrers pairing tools, and battery charts. Annual Convention The meeting was concluded with a floor discus­ October 4-6, 1991 sion and the distribution of four valuable door prizes. Waterloo, NY

Morida State Watchmakers Association VIRGINIA Annual Convention The 199 ljoint convention ofthe Horological Association October 25-27, 1991 of Virginia, Inc. and the Virginia Jewelers Association Ramada Hotel -- Fort Myers, FL took place April 5, 6 & 7 at the Roanoke Marriott in Roanoke, VA.

62 Horological Times/June 1991 NEW MEMBERS

ADAMS, Charles--Palm Beach Gardens, FL GOLDSTEIN, Jack--Cranford, NJ NOVAK, James J., Jr.--Bolt, MD ALBERTS, Samuel--Salt Lake City, UT GONZALEZ, Rosendo J.--Encinetas, CA Sponsor: Gerald D. Kincaid--Bolt, MD Sponsor. Larry Kolby--$alt Lake City, UT GOODPASTURE, L.H.--Roswell, NM OCKEY, Gary--san Francisco, CA ALLRED, L.arry--Salt Lake City, UT GROSE, Richard--Gastonia, NC OLSON, Ron W.--Eugene, OR Sponsor: Larry Kolby--Salt Lake City, UT GROULX, Thomas A.--Gladwin, Ml Sponsor: J.D. Olson--Eugene, OR ALMOND, Mark--MeafQrd, Ontario, Canada GRUMBLING, Ray, Jr.--Bellefontaine, OH OSTRAAT, Rick--Portland, OR ANDERSON, Dean--Redlands, CA GUNNARSON, Jeffrey A.--Modesto, CA PEQUEGNAT, Paul--Ontario, Canada ANDERSON, Zachery T.--Canonsburg, PA GUNNARSON, Kathy--Modesto, CA PHAM, Thomas-Minneapolis, MN ANDREW, Mark L--Lansing, Ml HARRIS, Keith--Minneapolis, MN PHUNG, Xuan Ngoc--San Rafael, CA ARAND, William T., Jr.--Harrison, OH HAWK, Ronald L--San Bernardino, CA RASMUSSEN, Robert--Redwood City, CA BAKER, Buddy--Theodore, AL HAWKINS, James N.--Clyde, TX RAZI, Javad--Dubai, UAE BARCAK, Ronald P.--Beasley, TX HEALY, Lue--Denver, CO Sponsor: Amjad Ali--Dubai, UAE BARISCHER, Wayne F.-Catonsville, MD HENDRICKS, Eugent--Tucson, AZ REMINGTON, William--Oak Park, IL Sponsor: Daniel A. Spath--Ellicott City, MD HIBNICK, Melvin--Sarasota, FL Sponsor: Lloyd Posavec--Forest Park, IL BENSON, Carl J.--Reading, PA HOPKINS, Harry E.--Mason, IL REYNOLDS, William N.--Winston-Salem, NC BEIANU, Val--S. Pasadena, CA HUGUELET, Theodore L--Sylva, NC ROBBINS, Ronald F.--Headrick, OK Sponsor: Bruce Garbe--S. Pasadena, CA JAKIN, Joseph--Pittsburgh, PA ROBINSON, Gregory J.--Kimball, NE BERGER, Jim--Vista, CA JENKINS, B.H.--Seattle, WA ROMA, Thomas H.--Orlando, FL BINGHAM, Steve--Denton, NC JOHNSON, Brad--Richfield, MN ROPP, Mel--Garland, TX BOCOCK, Richard--Austin, TX KIRKPATRICK, Don L.--West Chester, PA ROST, Richard W., Jr.--Ft. Worth, TX BOHLAND, Rudolf--Hillsborough, CA KLINGELE, Alan P.--Glendale Heights, IL ROTHE, W.A.--Clifton, AZ Sponsor: Karen Spahr--Gilroy, CA KOHL, Fred--Greeley, CO ROWE, Dennis--Johnson City, TN BRADLEY, Lawrence L.--White Oak, TX KOLBY, Lawrence A.--Salt Lake City, UT RUIZ, Dennis R. Vega--Jayuya, PR BROWN, R.E.--Gulf Breeze, FL KOLBY, Michael L.--Salt Lake City, UT SCHLEUSENER, Roland--Antioch, IL BUNGAY, Clare--Tacoma, WA KRUEGER, Jerry--Hearne, TX Sponsor: Alvin Howell--lndependence, MO BYRNES, Neil--Summerville, SC LANTZ, Stone J.,111--San Bruno, CA SEGASTURE, David J.--Kirkwood, MO CARPENTER, Cathy--Rochester, NY LARMORE, Linda--Roseville, MN SMITH, Douglas--Waltham, MA CARTWRIGHT, Jerry L.--Muncie, IN LEMONS, Scott--Greensboro, NC SPECKER, Thomas--White Bear Lake, MN Sponsor: Larry Lezenlehner--Fairborn, OH LINCOLN, Scott $.--Maitland, FL STANLEY, Gordon L.--Warren, Ml CHAVEZ, Linda Lopez--San Jose,CA Sponsor: Steve Callihan--Orlando, FL STANLEY, Walter T.--Winthrop, ME CJERCITO, Oliver--Eno, Ontario, Canada LIONE, Michael R.-Tunkhannock, PA STIEGLITZ, Henry--Carrboro, NC COBB, Winnie--Gardenville, Guaynabo, PR MANCINO, Michael--Bay Port, MN STRICKLER, James 0.--Marblehead, MA CONDON, Patrick--EI Segundo, CA MANDEL, Henry--san Diego, CA SUND, Lawrence D.--Seattle, WA CROWE, Roy L.--Downey, CA MASSUCCI, Anthony--Pasadena, CA THOMA, James P.--Seattle, WA CRUZ, Marcos--Visalia, CA MASTRO, John J.--Wilton, CT TIDBALL, Ronald R.--Denver, CO Sponsor: Uilis Volpato--Visalia, CA McCORMACK, Dan--Green Valley, AZ TORRES, Remon--Baton Rouge, LA DANIELS, Gordon--Salt Lake City, UT McLAUGHLIN, Robert D.--Norwalk, CT TRAN, Tung Dai--Oklahoma City, OK Sponsor: Larry Kolby--Salt Lake City, UT McLEESE, David--Regina, Sask., Canada TLITTLE, George--San Bernardino, CA DEAN, B.J. --Carthage, TX Sponsor: Robert Strahan, Regina, Sask., Sponsor: Ivan Godwin--Running Sprgs., CA DeCORTE, Donald B.-Mt Clemens, Ml Canada VANDIVER, Gary--Abilene, TX DePAOL.A, Theodore C.--Waterbury, CT MEARS, Donald D.--Florence, SC WAALEWYN, Jeffrey--Winter Gardens, FL DER-MOVSESIAN, Berj--Pasadena, CA MEETZE, Daniel Boyd--Gaffney, SC WAGNER, Ronald S.--Tacoma, WA DLITTON, John--Ft. Lauderdale, FL MERKEL, Frederick D.--W. Milford, NJ WEINTRAUB, Randy--Brooklyn, NY FALK, Murray R.--Calgary, Alberta, Canada Sponsor: Henry Frystak--Unden, NJ WESLEY, Howard E.--Murrell's Inlet, SC FIGHT, Tom Lee-VanBuren, AR MILLER, Bill--Mansfield, OH WONG, Valentina--New York, NY FLAHERTY, James--Petaluma, CA MONROE, Robert--Seattle, WA ZELDIN, Karla--Denver, CO FORSLUND, Jeffrey J.--Oconomowoc, WI MORTON, Ray A.--Moreno Valley, CA ZUKAUCKAS, Bill--Austin, TX GEMMILL, John--Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA NEITZERT, Ed--Denver, CO D June 1991/Horological Times 63 New Products

IONIC CLEANING use of Gem Sparkle is encour­ FROM DAVIS SUPPLY CO. aged as other solutions may not Ionic cleaning is here. A new be effective. Speed Brite System procedure for cleaning jewelry is not a stripping agent and is safe called the Speed Brite Ionic for soft stones. Emeralds and System has just been introduced opals are cleaned gentiy and to the industry. Developed and safely by bubbles rather than the produced in the USA, this system heat and pressure formed by is not designed to replace ultrasonic cleaners. ultrasonic or steam cleaning, but A one-year warranty is to act as a supplement that can included with purchase. Speed also be used in a different area of Brite and the Gem Sparkle the retail store. Because of speed solution are manufactured by Brite's safe and odorless Speed Brite Systems, Salisbury, operation at room temperature, NC, and is available through the the convenience of storefront ring Davis Supply Co., distributors. For Speed Brite Ionic System From Davis cleaning and inspection is not more information, contact: Davis Supply Co., Inc. only possible but desirable. Speed Supply Co., Inc., P.O. Box 1140, Brite will eliminate a trip to the Roanoke, VA 24006; (703) 345- ature clocks are now available ART SPECIALTV'S shop for conventional cleaning 8040; fax (703) 344-5153. from Kassay. One line features FLEXO LINE and draw traffic into the store. It is hand-molded, full lead crystal in The all-metal construction and a perfect way to build rapport with six shapes (the Grandfather heavy-duty detailing of Art the customer who is 'just looking.• SEIKO OFFERS NEW model has a swinging pendulum). Specialty Co. 's Flexo lamp line The principle function of COMPACT TRAVEL ALARMS Quartz movements guarantee has earned it the reputation as the this system is to degrease by Every woman will cherish Seiko's accuracy. lighting industry's true workhorse. reducing surface tension while exclusive new compact travel The other line has four Each lamp incorporates electrical current forms gases that alarms from its Passport Collec­ shapes and can be purchased pressure die cast zinc, alloyed rise to the surface as bubbles. this tion. Crafted in an elegant either sitver-plated or gold-toned. with magnesium copper and Ionic process floats away foreign gleaming gold-tone case, this These are striking replicas of aluminum, and heavy-duty steel. matter and polishes newly portable luxury is presented with a time-honored masterpieces. All Available in both weighted base cleaned metal, in contrast to an matching cream faux marble case have quartz movements. and clamp styles, the flexo line is ultrasonic which uses sound cover and dial. It is also available For further information ideal for any office or manufactur­ waves to bombard the surface, with chestnut case cover and contact: KASSOV, 16 Midland ing setting. driving rouge and soil deeper into antique white dial. Complement­ Avenue, Hicksville, NV 11801; 'The durability of the crevices. An ultrasonic cleaner ing its chic design, Seiko slips its (800) 4-KASSOV; in NV State Flexo line is far superior to any relies on heat to soften soil so new travel compact alarms into call (516) 942-0560. other lamps on the market today,' that a_steamer can blow it away, their own special pouches. Other said Win Waterman, marketing whereas Speed Brite causes important travel features include manager for Art Specialty Co. 'In deeply imbedded grime to float easy-to-read numerals and fact, we're so confident in the out of crevices and pores. The luminous hands and markers. construction of the line, that we proper balance of electrical The new Seiko watch guarantee these lamps for 25 current to a special formula and clock collection is available at years.' electrolytic solution, plus authorized Seiko retailers The versatile lamp is controlled time cycles, yields . nationally. named 'Flexo' because the results seldom seen with present flexibility of the lamp's arm allows cleaning methods. Tarnish is the user to extend the light source removed quickly from silver and as far as 34 inches. The line is gold. Fingerprinting is eliminated available in fluorescent and by purging pores of crevices of incandescent lamp styles, as well impacted compounds and as a unique lamp (Style 6108) polishing rouge. that combines both a fluorescent The cleaning concen­ tube and a standard incandescent trate, Gem Sparkle, is supplied in Seiko's travel compact atarm. bulb. a handy pre-measured dispensing Kassoy's miniature quartz clocks. 'We have found that the bottle in 8 oz., 16 oz., and 32 oz. combination of fluorescent and sizes. It does not contain acids or incandescent light provides ammonia and is odorless while KASSOV OFFERS lighting close to natural daylight,• performing the primary function of MINIATURE QUARlZ CLOCKS Waterman said. Flexo's internal degreasing and polishing. The Two full lines of handsome mini- torsion and compression spring

64 Horological Times/June 1991 mechanism in both the elbow and contact: BATT·TRONIC Corp., LA, TUV, m, and GS Mark, styling and similar features. The base hold the lamps in position, Battery Park, P.O. Box 10, reflecting a high degree of global suggested retail price is $135 even with vibration of nearby Orangeburg, NY 10962; nation­ compliance. (model PSX001S). equipment. This sturdy construc­ wide (800) 431 ·2828; NY State For more information For more information, tion, as well as the totally (800) 942-1944, 9am-7pm, EST, contact: L&R Corp., 7 Old contact: Pulsar Time, 1111 enclosed wiring, makes Flexo Mon.-Fri. Highway 28, Whitehouse Macarthur Blvd., Mahwah, NJ ideal for factories and workshops. Station, NJ 08889; (201) 534- 07430; (201) 529-2400. All lamps in the Flexo 4041; fax (201) 534-5023 line combine durability with attractive design, making them appropriate for office use. Colors include brown, gray, tan, black, or putty. Art Specialty is a leading American manufacturer of high-quality fluorescent, incandes­ cent, high-intensity, and halogen portable task lighting. Based in Free from Batt-Ironic with purchase of 200 Chicago, Art Specialty has over batteries. L&R 0140 ultrasonic cleaner. 50 years of experience producing 1 reliable and attractive lighting fixtures. Art Specialty products are L&R Q140 SETS THE available through office supply STANDARD FOR wholesalers, dealers, and ULTRASONIC CLEANING PULSAR'S NEW MEN'S catalogs, electrical and industrial L&R Manufacturing Company SPORTS ALARM Pulsar's sports alarm chronograph. supply distributors, and home ac­ recently introduced its new CHRONOGRAPH cessories stores. Ouantrex line of ultrasonic Pulsar Time has introduced a Cleaning systems. The 0140 can rugged, high-performance men's "ELAPSE, ECLIPSE, ELLIPSE" be easily placed on a countertop, sports digital alarm chronograph-­ WRISTWATCH FROM providing powerful cleaning while ideal for any sport requiring MOVADO WATCH CO. remaining amazingly quiet. When timing capabilities--and any man At the recent European Watch, used with L&R's specially desiring real masculine styling Clock and Jewelry Fair (Basel 91), formulated cleaning solutions, the coupled with timing accuracy. the Movado Watch Company 0140 cleans the most intricate This new selection is presented the 'Elapse, Eclipse, items, small parts, and instru­ available with a dramatic black Ellipse' watch, designed by the Flexo lamps from Art Specialty Co. ments with exacting results. dial accented by a gold-tone American artist James The 0140 represents a rotating bezel and black strap. Its Rosenquist. new generation of ultrasonics, and capabilities include measuring The wristwatch, FREE FLASHLIGHT AND 'AA' L&R's commitment to quality accumulated elapsed time and produced in a limited collectors' BATTERIES FROM begins with the industry's best lap time (will count to 90 laps with edition of 180, has three inde­ BATT·TRONIC CORP. warranty. The entire unit is 30 lap memory and recall); count­ pendent sets of mechanical Batt-Tronic Corp. is offering a free warranted for defects in material down timer with a warning signal movements and crowns as well as mini Krypton-lite flashlight with and workmanship for 2-1 /2 years; and auto repeat function for 29+ three dials on three levels, with each 200 watch batteries ordered the housing is warranted for 5 hours; a 30-hour stopwatch with domed sapphire glasses. It gives through June 30, 1991. The mini years; the tank-to-transducer auto start, as well as displaying the time from three different time Krypton-lite flashlight comes bonding is covered for 1O years. hour, minute, seconq, year, zones because, as the artist says, complete with two 'AA' super Most Quantrex machines also month, day, and date. he is basically orientated to three alkaline batteries. The approxi­ come standard with a drain. An Other features of this times, namely New York, Los mate retail value of flashlight and increased power package for multi-functional new sports watch Angeles, and Europe. The casing batteries is $12.95. greater cavitation in the tank, include: a compass on its rotating is made of silver. The dark blue The flashlight provides stainless steel tank and drain and bezel which determines general leather strap is studded with silver maximum lighting power yet is steel construction, 30 minute/hold direction; 24-hour and dual time stars. small enough to fit in the palm of timer which allows the operator to indications; tachymeter timer; The idea behind the the hand. It is ideal for carrying in preset the cleaning cycle duration built-in illumination and water creation of this watch is linked the pocket or purse, and can or select continuous clean are resistant to 100 meters (330 ft.). with the works created by easily be kept in a drawer or car included. All Quantrex machines Also introduced is a Rosenquist in 1988-89, Welcome glove compartment. have earned the following version with a silver-tone rotating to the Water Planet. One dial For further information, worldwide approvals: FCC, CSA, bezel, with equally distinctive 'Ellipse' represents the earth, the

June 1991/Horological Times 65 New Products

Germanow-Simon blue planet, as seen from outer glass, optical components, and space. 'Eclipse,' the middle dial, various opthalmic uses. is like a fiery red meteor, and Contact: Germanow­ 'Elapse' is an abstract concept of Simon Corp., P.O. Box 1091, the space of time, which finds its Rochester, NY 14603; (716) 232- expression on the dial of the 1440; fax (716) 232-3857. watch by means of many small dots of color. Rosenquist, however, constantly stresses that NEYCRAFT OFFERS A Individually boxed with the interpretation of his works is COMPLETE LINE OF instructions in many languages. left to the observer. PROGRAMMABLE FURNACES Tube size: 2Ve" x %" Every year since 1988 Neycraft, a division of The J.M. Contains 1/10 fl. oz. (3ml). Movado has commissioned a Ney Company, has introduced a complete line of fully program­ UV205C Display carton holds world-famous artist to create a 1 dozen individually skin packed timepiece. In 1988, the 'Andy mable burn-out and heat-treating tubes. Card size: 8%" x 2%". Warhol Times/5' by the Pop Art furnaces in two sizes. The Ney­ artist was first presented in Basel. craft Pro 2-525 Series II, the Ney­ Carton size: 8%"Wx23/.i"Dx8V2"H Then came the 'Rainbow craft Pro 6, and the Neycraft Pro Carton Shipping Weight: 7 oz. Collection' by Yaacov Agam, the 6-525 fiber muffles measure 9'W eminent exponent of kinetic art x 11'Dx 6.5'H. The larger and Op Art. In 1990, the neo­ capacity Pro 2-1350 and 6-1350A realistic painter and sculptor feature a firebrick muffle which Arman created the wristwatch measures 12'W x 12.5'0 x 9'H. 'The color of time.' All Neycraft furnaces are rated to All the art watches are 2012 F (1100 C). produced in limited editions, of All controllers feature which only a few specimens are the ability to control the rate of now available. The Movado art increase or decrease, tempera­ collections are on exhibition in ture, and elapsed time through separate stages. Another unique major museums around the world. Neycraft Pro 6 programmable fumace. feature is the Delay Start, which allows the operator to program the furnace to start a heating cycle up Swiss jewelry manufacturers were to 99 hours later. In addition, each slightly more numerous than last controller features permanent year. What they all had in memory and a power outage common was creativity, insistence return. Neycraft also manufac­ on impeccable finish, and tures the Neycraft Manual Fiber generous use of precious stones. Furnace, the Centrifugal Casting Most jewelry is still Waltham-'The style and spirit of Art Machine, the Neycraft Infrared fashioned in 1BK yellow gold, Deco• live on here: case and dial set Movado's 'Elapse, Eclipse, Ellipse' Soldering Machine, and ultrasonic although pink gold and especially with more than 3 carats of gemstones: cleaners from 2-quart to 35- white gold are gaining in impor­ sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and dia­ monds. The bracelet itself is enhanced GERMANOW-SIMON'S gallon, and a complete line of tance. There's also a definite with about 7 carats of diamonds. ULTRAVIOLET CURE hand pieces. trend to upping standards of Waltham lntematlonal SA, Champs­ GLASS GLUE For more information, 'material integrity' to the absolute Montants 16b, CH-2074 Marin-Neu­ Ideal for watch crystals and contact: Neycraft, 13553 limit. For example, 24K (100% chatel, Switzerland. glassware repair is Germanow­ Calimesa Blvd., Yucaipa, CA pure) gold and platinum are Simon's cure glass glue. It comes 92399; (714) 795-2461; fax (714) increasingly coming into their with a precision hypo-tube 795-5268. own. One newcomer is blue gold, applicator. The water-clear glue a stunning hue with a title of close cures in sunlight or with an SWISS JEWELRY to 21K. ultraviolet lamp, and will not turn DESIGNS AT BASEL FAIR yellow. It is good also for clock At this year's recent European crystals, arts and crafts, stained Watch, Clock, and Jewelry Fair, At right: Mondaine watches.

66 Horological Times/June 1991 News in the Trade

L&R PICKS YEAR-LONG from laboratory-irradiated green CONTEST WINNERS diamonds,' said Alice Keller, The 60th anniversary of L&R, an editor of Gems & Gemology. The industry leader in ultrasonic authors' examination of the stone cleaning systems, solutions and in Dresden resulted in a complete accessories, took place during documentation of the famous 1990, during which time L&R gem's physical appearance and sponsored a contest for all its gemological properties. They also dealers, based upon America's discovered information pertaining favorite pasttime--baseball. to the probable locations where The contest winners the diamond was mined and cut. were selected recently by Miss Other articles in this Ludwig Muller-This apparatus was New Jersey, Lynette Falls. Miss issue concern the diagnostic designed for all those who have any­ New Jersey was on hand to honor thing to do with complex mechanical features and heat treatment of watches. It allows spring-driven those companies whose random Kashmir sapphires, black mechanisms to be wound automati­ entries were drawn as winners. diamond jewelry, and "Emeral­ cally, sparing them the tricky job of The Grand Prize winners received dolite,' a new synthetic emerald resetting to the correct date and exact trips to Disney World, and many overgrowth on natural beryl. The Audemars Plguet-"Audemarine• is time watches that are not wound daily. other valuable prizes were It is powered by a rechargeable battery annual index to all 1990 Gems & Audemars Piguet's latest design for awarded as well. women. Its gracefully curved case lines with a minimum power reserve of four Gemology articles is also and smoothly articulated bracelet of weeks. A timepiece in the control box included. meticulously adjusted polished links monitors the drive system. A device To purchase the Winter form an elegant white or yellow gold (friction disks) de-couples the appara­ issue of Gems & Gemology, call tus when winding is complete. It can composition, with optional diamond, toll-free (800) 421-7250, ext. 201. sapphire, emerald, or ruby decor; also wind a series of watches mounted quartz movement. Audemars Piguet, collectively. Ludwig Muller SA, Rue Or wri.te: Gems & Gemology, 18 E. 4Bth St., New York, NY 10017; des Chaudronnlers 5, CH-1204 Ge­ P.O. Box 2110, Santa Monica, (212) 223-0099. neva, Switzerland. CA 90407-2110.

STAR STRUCK ACQUIRES J&S JEWELERS SUPPLY Lynette Falls, Miss New Jersey, and Robert Star Struck, Inc., a national J. Lazarus, Marketing Director of L&R. distribution company located in Bethel, CT, has recenijy announced their acquisition of GEMS & GEMOLOGY J&S Jewelers Supply. Star FEATURES DRESDEN Struck has been in the watch GREEN DIAMOND battery and jewelry findings The Winter issue of Gems & business for over ten years. Gemology, the Gemological They have the exclusive United Institute of America's quarterly States distribution rights for journal, contains a detailed article Sony watch batteries. In Gerald Gents (above)-Minute re­ on the legendary Dresden Green addition, Star Struck also distributes Eveready, Maxell, peater, perpetual calendar; 3.45 carats diamond, its history, locality of diamonds around bezel; 55.45 carats Breit/Ing-Fitted with a quartz elec­ Renata, Rayovac, and Varta of diamonds set into bracelet. Gerald tronic movement, Breitling's "Shark" origin, and properties. batteries, along with a complete chronograph is depth-tested to with­ The 41 carat diamond is Genta, Rue de Saint.Jean 19, CH- stand pressures to a depth of 100m. It line of watchmaker's tools. 1211, Geneva, Switzer/and 8. measures short times thanks to a cen­ the largest and perhaps the finest Star Struck has a 24- Mondaine Watch Ltd. (left)-Unveiled ter seconds coun(er, a center-posi­ green diamond known to have a hour toll-free number for service at the Basel Fair. All models pictured tioned minute totalizer, and an hour color of natural origin. or to get a battery cross totalizer. Watch also features: split­ are made by Mondaine's own case •Not only does the reference. They also provide manufacturing unit, Merit SA. These seconds function, a time readout to 11 10th second, small seconds hand and same-day shipping. timepieces are sold under the Mon­ Dresden Green have a fascinating date calendar, and a fast-action hour history that spans more than 250 . For more information, daine label registered worldwide or correction system that affects neither under private labels in over 30 coun­ years, it also offers the unique contact: Star Struck, 8 F.J. the minutes nor the seconds. Breit/Ing Clarke Circle, P.O. Box 308, tries. Water resistant to 30m. Mon­ Montres SA, Schlachthausstrasse 2, opportunity of adding valuable Bethel, CT 06801 ; (800) 243· daine Watch Ltd., Lesslngstrasse 5, CH-2540 Grenchen, Switzerland. data to help d.istinguish natural CH-8059 Zurich, Switzerland. 6144; (203) ns- 4925; tax caoo) 962-8345. June 1991/Horological Times 67 Classified Ads

REGULATIONS AND RATES

Ads are payable in advance $.60 per word, $. 70 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $25.00 per column inch, 2-1/4" wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all CORRECTION copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. In the May issue in the Copy must be received 30 days in advance (e.g. June issue closes for copy Tower Clocks ad on May lst). it was indicated that the Ayer Milt was located in Lawrence, ME. HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 The Ayer Miii is located Phone (513) 661-3838 Fax (513) 661-3131 In Lawrence, MA.

37 Years Experience in restoring and making DIAL REFINISIDNG CO. FAST SERVICE, parts for Platform Escapements and French FINFST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. and English Carriage Clocks. Balance staffs, Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit cylinders, repivoting, hairsprings, etc. JOHN the quartz movement. Send your works to: BARRS, 8442 N.E. 140th St., Bothell, WA KIRK DIAL OF SEA'ITLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., 98011; (206) 820-8288. Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. ANTIQUE CLOCK REPAIR AND RESTO­ RATION. All work guaranteed. Clock parts made. The most complicated work done. Euro­ Old Marine Chronometers and Carriage CUTI'ERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pin­ pean experienced clock expert. LEON BUYA­ Clocks serviced and repaired. Restoration ions_ Module 0.2 to 1.0. Constant profile pro­ NOVSKY, P.O. Box 060816, Staten Island, NY work undertaken. Call or write for shipping ducing traditional square bottomed teeth, 104 10306-0008; (718) 983-6948. instructions. Wanted: Old marine chronome­ sizes. Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven sizes), ters working or not. P. Howard, CMBHI, 4220 dead beat (set of four sizes). Ratchets 60° and Virginia Beach Blvd., Virginia Beach, VA 70°. All cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 High 23452; (804) 481-7633. Speed Steel and heat treated under vacuum. QUALITY WATCH CRYSTAL FITl'ING. Also cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. Fast service. Expert crystal fitting. New and Send for Information Sheet, prices, and order old styles. KIRK CRYSTAL CO., 4th & Pike HERSCHEDE forms to: P .P. Thornton (Successo.rs), Ltd., Hor­ Bldg., Suite 823, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 622- Factory parts and service. Refurbishing of ological Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, 7639. movements, dials, and weights. 541 Goethe Upper Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, Eng­ Ave., St. Louis, MO 63122; (314) 821-0129. land. VISa/MC $15.00 minimum.

CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, ------WATCH RFSl'ORATION and repair work. rebushing. REPAIRING: timers, aircraft ' Custom staffs, pivoting, and regilding. Ron clocks, pocket watches. ROY H. NIEGEL, DeCorte, Box 6126, Toledo, OH 43614; (419) CMC, CMW, 101 E. Saint Joe Drive, Spirit 381-1081 . Lake, Idah.o 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623- 12 ; 4330. 2 · l'RICISION 'I !\II -TH 11 S1.:nicc ;111d fl",1cn:111111i 11( l

June 1991/Horological Times 69 Classified Ads

WATCH REPAIR PERSON--lmmediate posi­ tion available. Experienced with mechanical •• .:_j TEXAS 1'STITI TE I IF watches, antique watches, and Bulova Accu­ .IE\\ ELlff TH "H\01,()(;, trons. Up to $1000/week. (313) 559-5329. :\ ll1n:-;1011 nl Pa1·1:-. .lu111

WATCH REPAIR PERSON to work as inde­ TEXAS US. pendent contractor in jewelry trade shop. I -800-441-1398 l ·800-232-5804 Contact Michael Carter at Micah's Jewelry (803) 552-2167. WAT~~DOWESil 705 Rimpau Avenue #101 . !JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL Corona, CA 91719 EXPERIENCED WATCHMAKER to work in well-established Southern California store. 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 11377 FAX: (714) 540-3512 Must know quartz, high-grade mechanical, and Phone (718) 424-2929 "DISTRIBUTORS WANTED" automatic-wind watches. Great opportunity. References required. Send resume to: Box Quality Instruction Since 1945 024 HOUR ORDER LINES ~1i 800-292-5522 6 HW56791, c/o Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. WATCHMAKING (17 months) WATCH REPAIR (9 and 13 months) JEWELRY REPAIR BASIC ELECTRONICS Retiring--Established business on busy Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation thoroughfare in Salt Lake City. Clock NATTS approved, BEOG available sales, clock repair, stained glass supplies, custom glass work, gifts. Business build­ WORK NEEDED: Recent graduate of Bates ing includes two bedroom, two baths, on Voe. Tech. Institute needs trainee position in large lot. Much more. Call for details (801) watch repair and/or jewelry bench worker in LEARNJEWELRYTECHNOLOGY 487-6190. Seattle/Tacoma area. Jeffrey Shantz, 4914 AND/OR WATCH REPAIR N.E. 22nd, Tacoma, WA 98422. Become a jeweler or watch repairer. Learn the art and technology to make and repair personal Complete trade business with accounts, 4 pick­ jewelry items or the ability to repair mechani­ ups and 6 mail-ins. All tools, supplies, equip­ SAN DIEGO JEWELERS-Do you need a cal and electronic watches. Develop technical ment, office supplies with computer and soft­ competent watchmaker? Box 979, Santa Ma­ skills and the ability to work with precious ware, and one month's accounts receivable to ria, CA 93454. metals and precision instruments under the help you get started. $55,000 firm. (717) 567- guidance of master instructors. Enroll in this 9560. internationally recognized program. Accred­ ited program earns college credit and the Asso­ ciate Degree. Residential campus. Financial Aid and Out-of-State Tuition Waiver Scholar­ ship available. For a free brochure contact: Small Business Occupations, Oklahoma State University, 1801 E. Fourth, Okmulgee, OK 74447-3901; or call (918) 756-6211, ext. 271 or toll free (800) 722-4471. CHIME CLOCK REPAIR by Steven G. WATCH REPAIR SCHOOL--JOHN O'CON­ ?onovei:: New! Detailed drawings and repair NELL COMMUNITY COLLEGE. Since 1938. ~nstruct1ons for New Haven, Junghans, Kien­ Free Tuition. 108 Bartlett Street San Fran­ mger, Hermie, Seth Thomas, and many more. cisco, CA 94110; (415) 550-4380. ' Also contains chime melodies, solutions to com­ mon problems, and the author's method for assembling and adjusting chime movements. LAURIE PENMAN'S Available only from the publisher, Clock­ CLOCK COURSE ANNOUNCEMENT makers Newsletter, 203 John Glenn Ave., Learn clock repair and clockmaking in a new Reading, PA 19607. Hardcover, 210 pages way--at home from a practicing clockmaker. ~e buy watchmakers tools, equipment, mate­ $28.50 postpaid.PA residents add 6% sales tax'. Laurie Penman's correspondence clock courses are different! After receiving the start-up pack­ rial, and related items as well as jewelers and age, YOU call up the next subject from over 40 clockmakers tools and watch collections etc. course books. We do not send you information Specialize in estate purchases. Call or ~rite you already have. Over 250,000 words on clock­ Tom Mister, Dashto Jewelers, 983 Providence making, prop-up cards of drawings and notes Square Shopping Center, Virginia Beach, VA for the bench, and personal answers to prob­ 23464; (804) 495-2471. lems. From an established maker/restorer of WATCHMAKER: Newport Beach California 8:ntique and modern clocks, a completely prac­ 1 WANTED: Unusual American pocket guild store seeking European school" tical approach to clockmaking whether simple "~ld watches/movements. I buy entire collections, watchmaker. Must have minimum 15 years or exotic. Stateside or Continental. Full details from USA Agent Steven G. Conover, 203 John estates, watchmakers' inventories. Over 30 experience with complicated mechanical years experience of honest and reliable confi­ watches as Patek, Audemars, etc. Call man­ Glenn Ave., Reading, PA 19607 or Laurie Pen­ man, 61 High Street, Totnes TQ9 5PB Eng- dential transactions. JON HANSON, Box ager (714) 644-8325. Moboco Fine Jewelry & 5499, Beverly Hills, CA 90210; (213) 826-7778. Gems. lapd. '

· 70 Horological Times/June 1991 We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any HAMILTON ELECTRIC· REPAIRMAN amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, seeks parts! Movements, balance completes, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment contact wires, etc. desperately needed. Want Watch~ Wanted return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: anything related to Hamilton Electrics. Rene AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King Rondeau, 120 Harbor Drive, Corte Madera, CA St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab­ 94925; (415) 924-9132. lished 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073.

WANTED: 16s B.W. Raymond Balance Com­ ATl'ENTION WATCHMAKERS! Small ad, plete; also Ham. 992. Thomas Watch & Jewelry higher prices! We need your vintage Repair, 503 Minor Street N.E., Huntsville, AL watches for our European customers. Top 35801; (205) 536-4671. prices paid for Patek, Vacheron, Rolex, Cartier, Movado, chronographs, and oth­ We desperately need for our retail ers. Buying all brands, new old stock. customers fine watches by: WANTED Buying mint boxed comic characters. Buying preowned modern Rolex and Car­ Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet, • Diamonds - all sizes, qualities; tier. Buying ladies enamels. National even chipped, old mine, single cut Watch Exchange, 107 S. 8th St., Philadel­ Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, Gubelin, etc. • Scrap watch bands - paying $12-$27 lb. phia, PA 19106. 1-800-43-ROLEX. 1-800- • Dead watch batteries (unsorted accepted) We are paying top prices for any high 562-6788. • Gold filled & gold scrap - filings , quality, unusual or complicated 10, 14, 1BK, buffing waste, etc. • Sterling & plated flatware Wrist or Pocket Watches • China, old watches - Rolex, etc. When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch CALL Unusual Pocket Watches & Wrletwatches Wanted. Call us Toll Free 1-800-842-862 5 TOLL FREE 1-800-426-2344 Especially Patek Philippe, Howard, llllnols, Waltham, Chronometers, Strikers, Moonphase, Tourblllons, Vir­ In Texas 1-214-902-0664 SPECIAL TY METALS gules, Karrusel, Musicals, Historical, and Solid Golds. Always prompt immediate payment! REFINING COMPANY Early American watches a speclalty. Need not run. Call 10 Bay Street TOLL FREE 1-8Q0.23J-BUNN or 913-383-2880. Maundy Wingate's Quality Watches Westport, CT 06880 International, P.O. Box 13028H, Overland Park, Kansas P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 66212. Members Jewelers Board of Trade Ron Fried Our 70th Consecutive Ad President

WE'RE INTERESTED IN YOUR COLOR SLIDES The American Watchmakers Institute knows that there is a wealth "of talent in its membership and that this talent is not only in the field of horology. There is seldom a gathering of a group of watchmakers and clockmakers where a camera is not also there.

Those of you who pride yourself in the beauty of your camera work can possibly participate in having your own picture reproduced on the cover of Horologi.cal Times. The covers of Horologi.cal Times are reproduced from color transparencies or slides. Remember, the format is scenery or nature and what you submit must be a color.slide. Color photos are not acceptable.

If your color slide is used, you, Will receive an 8-1/2 x 11 inch color photo. It will be framed and sent to you for your enjoyment.

Mail your color slide with description to: Horologi.cal Times, Art Deparbnent, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. All slides become the property of the American Watch­ makers Institute.

June 1991/Horological Times 71 Dates to Remember Advertisers' Index

JUNE 1991 17-18-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course American Perfit Crystal Corp...... 19 (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Kansas City, 2-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair MO.* Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instructor; Bergeon & ae ...... 37 Quad Cities.* 17-18--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course Borel Co ...... 9 (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Boston, MA.* 7-9-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); Roland Iverson, instructor; Jacksonville, 17-18-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench Cas-Ker Co...... inside back cover FL.* Course (AWi); Robert Bishop, instructor; Indian­ apolis, IN.* Charles Cleves ...... 29 8-9--Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Buffalo, NY.* 18--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Salt Davis Supply...... 5 8-9-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); Lake City, UT.* DRS, Inc ...... 7 James Williams, instructor; Denver, CO.* 18-Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench 8-9-400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Esslinger & Co ...... inside front cover John A. Nagle, instructor; Chicago, IL.* Rochester, NY.* Eveready Watch Batteries ...... 3 9-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench 18-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Re­ Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Phila­ pair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instruc­ Finn Time Products ...... 37 delphia, PA.* tor; Milwaukee, WI.*

9--ETA Quartz Chronograph Bench Course 23-25--Nebraska &South Dakota Jewelers Asso­ Gem City College ...... 39 (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Baltimore, ciation 86th Annual Convention; Kearney MD.* Ramada Inn; Kearney, NE. Hyde Park Group ...... 15 25-27-Research & Education Council Annual 24-25--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course Meeting; Radisson Inn, Greater Cincinnati Airport. (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Scranton, PA.* Contact AWi Central for more information. S. LaRose, Inc ...... 33 28-AWI Affiliate Chapter Meeting; Radisson Inn, SEPTEMBER 1991 Livesay's, Inc ...... 21 Greater Cincinnati Airport. Contact AWi Central for more information. 14-15--400-Day Oock Repair Bench Course (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Denver, CO.* Maxell Corp ...... 11 29-30-AWI Board of Directors Meeting; Radisson Inn, Greater Cincinnati Airport. Contact AWi 15--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Central for more information. Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Pitts­ Precision Crystal Cutting Co...... 6 burgh, PA.*

JULY 1991 15-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Ray Gaber Co ...... 4 Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Min­ 7-Retrofitting, Casing and Coil Repair Bench neapolis, MN.* Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Smith Supply House ...... 31 Orlando, FL.* • 21-22-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course Song's Trading & Supply ...... 27 (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Salt Lake City, 13-14--400-Day aock Repair Bench Course UT.* (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Buffalo, NY.* Toledo Jewelers ...... 25 22-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Re­ Twin City Supply Co ...... 13 20-21--Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench pair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instruc­ Course (AWi); Robert Bishop, instructor; Minnea­ tor; Portland, OR.* polis, MN.* Vintage Timepieces Worldwide ...... 17 28-29--400-Day Oock Repair Bench Course 20-21-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; San Diego, CA.* (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Rapid City, SD.* Watch Band Co ...... 35 21--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Re­ OCTOBER 1991 Witschi Electronics ...... 23 pair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instruc­ tor; Denver, CO.* 4-6-New York State Watchmakers Annual Con­ vention; Waterloo, NY. Young-Neal Co ...... 23 27-28--400-Day aock Repair Bench Course (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Nashville, TN.* 5-6--400-Day Oock Repair Bench Course (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Richmond, VA.*

AUGUSJ1991 · *For more information on AWi Bench Courses and Regional Seminars, contact AWi Central, • 16-18-lntroduction to Clock Repair Bench P.O. Box 11011, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cin­ Course (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; Atlanta, cinnati, OH 45211; (513) 661-3838; fax (513) GA.* 661-3131.

72 Horological Times/June 1991 Figures don't lie.

We ship over 97 % of Seiko material parts from stock.

We ship over 95 % of Seiko crystals from stock. We ship over 95 % of all orders the same day received, and 100% within 24 hours.

Above figures bued on audit of Nov. 19,1990. Includes Seiko, Pulsar and Lorus. Bands and band parts not included.

For the best service on Seiko, Pulsar and Lorus watch material, call Cas-Ker. 1-800-487-0408. Cas·~&(f(O. Quick and efficient service on all of your material needs.

2121 SPRING GROVE AVENUE P 0BOX14069 CINCINNATI OH 45250-0069 LOCAL PHONE (513) 241-7073 FAX (513) 241-5848 Your Watch Battery Specialist Plus FREE Shipping & Handling.

8807-19th Ave.• Brooklyn, N.Y. 11214 • (718) 266-3451 (800) 247-5651