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March 2018 SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY

AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- INSTITUTE CHRONOSCOPE-X1 (G3) WITH MMC AUTOMATIC MICROPHONE

STOCK # DESCRIPTION TS-CHRONOSCOPE-X1 SIX POSITION CHRONOSCOPE, CALCULATES GRAVITY POINT OF THE BALANCE WHEEL. FOUR SCREENS (SHOWN BELOW)

DIAGRAM DISPLAY MODE VARIO DISPLAY MODE TRACE DISPLAY MODE SEQUENCE DISPLAY MODE

JULES BOREL & CO. PHONE 800-776-6858 FAX 800-776-6862 WEB JULESBOREL.COM

HT Ad 3-2018.indd 1 2/9/2018 5:08:14 PM IN THIS VOLUME 42, NUMBERissue 3, March 2018

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March 2018 Editor's Forum Large-Scale SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY By Donna Hardy Manufacturing Facility Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute page 4 Planned in Arizona By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 EXECUTIVE & EDITORIAL OFFICES American Watchmakers- Vice President’s Message page 30 Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) By Aaron H. Recksiek, CW21 701 Enterprise Drive page 5 Tourneau Is Acquired by Harrison, OH 45030 European-Based Bucherer AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) Executive Director’s Message By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE or 513-367-9800 By Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 page 32 Fax 513-367-1414 page 5 [email protected] • www.awci.com www.facebook.com/MyAWCI Cover Image: Affiliate Chapter Highlights Education & The men in the image are thought to Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 By Jim Zimmerman, CMEW, CMC, CMW21 be a father and sons taken between Executive Director page 39 Certification 1890 and 1917 in Good Hope, West Ext. 310 [email protected] AWCI Educational Calendar Virginia. It was one of 539 glass Donna Hardy Affiliate Chapter News page 6 negatives given to Ken Nichols’s Managing Editor father in the 1980s. All the images Ext. 305 [email protected] page 42 Education & Standards are now part of the Regional History Kathy Ortt New Members/ELM Trust Committee Center at West Virginia University in Editor Morgantown, West Virginia. [email protected] Contributors/Memoriam page 8 page 46 Photo Courtesy of Ken Nichols. Janette Torres-Gomez Graphic Designer & Assistant Technical Support Book Review Classifieds Ext. 302 [email protected] Technical Discussions Antique Watch Restoration Buy, Sell, Trade, and Tom Schomaker, CMW21 Cuckoo Vol. III Watchmaking Instructor Reviewed by Robert Loomes, FBHI Employment Opportunities Ext. 309 [email protected] page 49 Bellows Repair page 10 Mike Carpenter, CC By Paul Corn Director page 13 [email protected] AWCI Directory Rob McLeod How to Select and Maintain Columns Education & Certification Coordinator Advertisers’ Index a Lathe Suited for From the Workshop page 51 Ext. 303 [email protected] Part 1: How to Select a Lathe By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI CHRONOSCOPE-X1 (G3) WITH MMC AUTOMATIC MICROPHONE Maureen Seals By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 page 35 Industry Advisory Board Membership Coordinator & page 22 Technical Support Members STOCK # DESCRIPTION Ext. 301 [email protected] page 51 TS-CHRONOSCOPE-X1 SIX POSITION CHRONOSCOPE, CALCULATES GRAVITY POINT OF THE BALANCE WHEEL. FOUR SCREENS (SHOWN BELOW) HOROLOGICAL TIMES ADVISORY COMMITTEE Bob Little, CC, CW, Chair DIAGRAM DISPLAY MODE VARIO DISPLAY MODE TRACE DISPLAY MODE SEQUENCE DISPLAY MODE Daniel Benson, CMW Paul Corn OUR VISION: Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 AWCI’s vision is to have an educated and passionate horological Dale LaDue, CMW21 community practicing the highest standards and with the resources Hannah Mancill Brock McKee to provide quality goods and services. Matt Schloemer, CW21 Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written OUR MISSION: permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Setting service standards and educating the horological community. Institute. Copyright © 2018 by the American Watchmakers- Clockmakers Institute.

Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly Like us on Facebook! Follow us on Twitter! Follow us on Instagram! and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers-clockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes www.twitter.com/AWCInstitute www.instagram.com/americanwatchmakers Subscription price for the public is $175.00 per year Like us on Facebook! Check out our educational videos! JULES BOREL & CO. ($15.00 per copy). Members subscription is $99.00 which is included with annual dues of $175.00. Periodicals post- www.facebook.com/MyAWCI www.youtube.com/awci/videos PHONE 800-776-6858 FAX 800-776-6862 WEB JULESBOREL.COM age paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and additional entries. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Horological Times, 3 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030.

HT Ad 3-2018.indd 1 2/9/2018 5:08:14 PM E d it o r ’s I enjoyed reading the efit of either prior context or active ref- Forum recent article concerning erence—for example: “changes were cuckoo clock repair by made to the AWCI bylaws and con- Paul Corn. stitution.” It would be helpful to have I have been repairing those changes stated, since it seems cuckoo clocks for 31 years. such an important underlayment for (I It was nice to read an article assume) all that follows. that took a step-by-step ap- Likewise, I found alarming the proach to the adjustments statement “all forward momentum of and repair of the clock that the Education Committee has all but many repair people consid- been extinguished,” and, once again, er junk. With a little educa- more confusing than enlightening as tion and practice, I believe a lead-in to what followed. It would people would find this area be helpful then if the goals 1-3 could of clock repair very lucra- be clarified with concrete examples Adjusting Roof- tive. I look forward to reading future of how any of them could work if in- Mounted Music articles by Mr. Corn. stituted in real shop operations, and Boxes in Cuckoo how would the relationship of those Steve Skibicki Clocks, by Paul Corn East Coast Clock Repair shops to AWCI work? Of all the material presented, Goal #4 seems Hello Paul, The New Education & straightforward enough, although no Once again, nice article on cuckoo Standards Committee mention whatsoever is made as re- clock repairing. I had the same model gards the clockmakers. as in your article, but in worse shape Hi Donna, Seeking clarification, not simplifi- (cosmetic wise). The tip (Figure 12) I read with interest Aaron Recks- cation, was most helpful with the wood tooth- iek’s “Projects and Goals of the New Andrew Baron pick. I will try that next time. Great Education & Standards Committee Santa Fe, NM idea for that adjustment. 2018” on page 7 of the January HT, I personally leave the bird or zither as I am on the AWCI certification  player attached to the door(s) and re- path and consider well-organized and Andrew, lease these from their perch (rods). I high-standards education and certi- Thank you for your interest in the bend wires as little as possible. I may fication to be the primary value of projects and goals of the Education & mark their position on the perch with AWCI to me. Standards Committee. Let me clarify a black marker before taking off. I was disappointed, however, to some of the questions you have about Keep up the good work! find that far from clarifying the posi- the committee report. tions, the ideas set forth left me more Sincerely, Robert Mohr in the dark about the workings of The changes made to the these processes than before. A number AWCI Bylaws were passed at the of statements were made without ben- April teleconference call of the

continued on page 47

Writers for Horological Times can earn between $300 and $875 or more per article. It depends on the length of the article (25 cents per word). Earn a 10% bonus for submitting assigned articles early or on time. If you’d like to write for Horological Times, email [email protected] for guidelines.

4 March 2018 a message from the a message from the vice president executive director AARON H. RECKSIEK, CW21 JORDAN P. FICKLIN, CW21

this magazine arrives in he American Watchmakers- As your mailbox, the Board TClockmakers Association of Directors will be preparing to participates in a program that travel to Harrison, Ohio, for the connects us with volunteers annual Midyear Meeting on March who can complete some proj- 9 and 10. The Midyear Meeting is a ects that might otherwise not critical time for board members to get completed. For the past sev- meet in person to discuss big proj- Aaron H. Recksiek Jordan P. Ficklin eral months, AWCI has been [email protected] ects and make meaningful decisions [email protected] blessed to have Roy Wesselman with the purpose of improving the future of the institute. working at our headquarters. He has helped us with It’s typically a very productive weekend as the constraints various projects. This month I want to recognize his hard of conducting business over conference call are replaced by work and encourage our members to look at some of face-to-face interaction. the work he has done to benefit our membership. Recently, the board received an email from a member Some of you probably received a phone call from with his ideas to increase membership and to expand on the Roy. After Christmas, Roy started calling members who benefits we provide. Communication from members to the had not yet renewed their dues to offer them a friendly board is vital to our success. We need to know what you are reminder to pay their dues. experiencing in your shops and what you are talking about In 2016 we made all issues of Horological Times, in your social circles of fellow horologists. Please feel free which began publication in 1977, available on our to reach out to me, or you can contact the board directly at website. Now, because of Roy’s work, you can also [email protected]. view nearly every edition of AWI News and the HIA One of the major topics the board is discussing now is Journal! AWI News was published monthly from 1960 how we can include the general horological community in through 1977. We have copies of the HIA Journal what we do. Many of the current benefits we offer at the starting in 1946 and running through 1960 when regular membership rate are not applicable to the collec- HIA merged with UHAA to form AWCI. We may tor or hobbyist. The magazine is fantastic, but do we have be missing one or two journals. If you have a copy enough content to attract that audience for a magazine-only of one of the missing AWI News or HIA Journals, we subscription? We have introduced a “build your own watch would love to have it so we can make our collection course” where we teach an introduction to watchmaking complete. You can find all of the journals by click- along with putting together a watch you get to wear out of ing on Horological Times Archives under the Member the classroom. It was marketed toward collectors, and it has Center tab in the menu at www.awci.com. received more interest than many other courses we have of- To support the Education & Standards Committee fered over the years. We are also currently evaluating the in their efforts to develop an apprenticeship curriculum, Affiliate Chapter system with the aim of getting more horo- Roy has also scanned the curricula of several horologi- logical groups involved in what we do. cal institutions. This should help streamline the work of A message I have been advocating for quite some time the committee as they develop lesson plans. now, including when I ran for the board, is inclusiveness. We I have always been fascinated by the historical need to expand our pool of possible members and bring any- supply catalogs. Roy is painstakingly scanning some one with an interest in horology to our table. The brands of these old catalogs from Paulson, C. E. Marshall, continued on page 48 continued on page 48 Editor’s Note: President Joe Cerullo has been ill and has asked Vice President Aaron Recksiek to write a message this month.

Horological Times 5 educational calendar

Plan Ahead! Sign Up Now for Classes! Reserve your spot today. Contact Rob McLeod at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303. Prices reflect member’s discount! Contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests.

This class is perfect for anyone thinking about entering the profession of March WATCH 100: $595 watchmaking or the individual who wants to gain a better appreciation of the Introduction to WatchmakingUT art of watchmaking. Learn basic skills and techniques used by the modern Instructor: Aaron Recksiek, CW21 watchmaker. Before attending, students are recommended to study Theory of 16-18 AWCI Headquarters, SOL Harrison,D OOhio Horology and be familiar with the basic nomenclature of watchmaking.

WATCH 240: $1,095 This intense 5-day course will help you refine your escapement adjusting April Servicing the Lever Escapement skills. The course covers all of the adjustments for the Swiss lever escape- Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 ment, hairspring, and balance. Also covered is the ETAchron system. 2-6 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio

WATCH 375: 2 CEUs $595 Learn the standard operating procedures (SOP) for disassembly, service, and April Separate Function Case Course for re-assembly of Rolex , featuring the separation of functions bezel Rolex Watches including water testing. You will gain hands-on training with the proper Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 tools and with multiple case designs. 18-19 New York, New York

Get certified today. The CW21 Exam is a 3-day examination covering topics in $2,495 April the AWCI Standards & Practices. If you are interested in becoming a Certified CW21 Exam Watchmaker for the 21st Century please contact Rob McLeod, AWCI’s Educa- AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio tion Coordinator for possible availability 866-367-2924, ext. 303. An exam 23-25 application and a notarized affidavit is required at time of registration.

Prices Vary April Only available to past examinees needing to take just a portion of the CW21 Retakes CW21 Exam. For additional information, contact Rob McLeod, AWCI’s 26-27 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio Education Coordinator, 866-367-2924, ext. 303.

WATCH 175: 5 CEUs $1,350 Today’s luxury watch consumer demands perfection. This course is April 30- Case & Bracelet Refinishing (Includes polishing kit) perfect for the watchmaker or dedicated refinisher. It will help you Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 achieve the different finishes on modern watch cases. Also covered is May 4 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio disassembly and assembly of common watch cases.

WATCH 300: 5 CEUs $1095 This course includes the complete servicing of a caliber 3035 timepiece June Advanced 21–Rolex 3035 from de-casing through quality control; including identifying counterfeits, Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 pre-cleaning, service, regulating system, automatic system, calendar system, 18-22 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio polishing, casing requirements, water testing, and more advanced concepts.

6 March 2018 WATCH 100: $595 This class is perfect for anyone thinking about entering the profession of July Introduction to Watchmaking watchmaking or the individual who wants to gain a better appreciation of the Instructor: Aaron Recksiek, CW21 art of watchmaking. Learn basic skills and techniques used by the modern NAWCC School of Horology watchmaker. Before attending, students are recommended to study Theory of 16-18 Columbia, Pennsylvania Horology and be familiar with the basic nomenclature of watchmaking.

WATCH 475: 5 CEUs $1095 July 30- Restoration & Construction Learn the techniques involved in vintage restoration and the con- Techniques struction of “kit” watches used by high-end manufacturers. Instructor: Henrik Korpela Aug 3 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio

WATCH 190: $1,095 Evaluate your skill set in this course by exploring the fundamentals of August 21st Century Watchmaking Standards modern mechanical watch repair, including cleanliness, lubrication, endshake Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 adjustment, and may include the verification and analysis of escapement 6-10 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio function.

WATCH 220: $1,095 August Modern Mechanical Chronograph— Brush up on your chronograph skills before taking the CW21 Exam with this ETA 7750 class on the modern mechanical chronograph. It focuses on the service and Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 adjustment of modern mechanical chronographs, such as the ETA 7750. 20-24 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio

Get certified today. Start or continue the process of completing all 4 com- $2,495 ponents of the CW21 Exam. This exam is conveniently scheduled just after August our Modern Mechanical Chronograph course so that you can take the exam CW21 Modular Exam right after taking the course—while all of the information is still fresh in your 25-26 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio mind. You can also take any of the other components you wish, as long as you can fit them into 2 days.

WATCH 210: $1,095 Expand what you know to increase your profit! Quartz watches can be one September Quartz & Quartz Chronograph of the most profitable sectors of your business. This course reviews quartz Service Procedures & Diagnostics watch repair and quartz chronographs, including the various important elec- Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 tronic tests, giving you the skills you need to be faster and more consistent at 17-21 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio servicing quartz watches.

Austin, Texas October 10-13, 2018 Join us at our NEW Horology Fair! This event will be open to the public and October American Watchmakers–Clockmakers Institute AWCI Horological Gathering ALL are welcome to sell their horological wares. For additional information go to page 20. H Austin, Texas O G R IN 10-13 OL ER OGICAL GATH

Become the go-to watchmaker for modern automatics in your area by WATCH 200: $1,095 learning the fundamentals of mechanical automatic watch repair that are November Modern Automatic Wristwatches most prevalent in today’s market. In this class you’ll investigate how to Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 perform the various components: cleaning, assembling, adjustments, dialing, 5-9 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio and casing.

For additional details about specific courses in comprehensive syllabi form, including complete tool lists, visit: www.awci.com/classes or contact Rob McLeod, Education & Certification Coordinator, at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), x303. For additional calendar events visit: www.awci.com/calendar.

Horological Times 7 Education & Certification: Education & Standards Committe

Education & Standards Committee

he Education & Standards ing input from current certification there a stigma attached to any one TCommittee has been hard holders. Ultimately, the CW21 cer- of these titles? What proficiencies at work tackling Goal 1: Revising tification belongs to the watchmak- should be considered for inclusion the Standards & Practices. The ers who have achieved that desig- in the Certified Master Watchmaker committee met on January 18 to nation. We would like to know if certification? AWCI does not want discuss and vote on small chang- CW21s think the lathe component to cheapen any watchmaker’s cur- es to the Standards & Practices and/or staffing component should rent certification, but that may be that can be viewed in the new be requirements on the CW21 a side effect of redefining the title document on AWCI’s website. Exam. Preparation for the micro- of “watchmaker.” The Education The changes were voted on and mechanical portion of the exam & Standards Committee is looking passed unanimously at the meet- has been difficult for some candi- for creative ways to answer these ing and will be sent to the Board dates, and the materials available questions and best serve CW21s of Directors for final approval. for us to test with have been less and all AWCI members. The committee plans to meet at than ideal. In general, the aver- One of the solutions the com- AWCI headquarters in March to: age working watchmaker does not mittee is considering includes struc- 1. Review the theory portion have regular access to a lathe or turing the exam into a modular of the CW21 and CC21 certi- have the need to cut out balance system. Certain modules must be fication exams. staffs. When sitting for the exam completed to achieve Watchmaker 2. Review the micromechan- and performing a strange task in certification, Watch Technician cer- ical portion of the CW21 cer- a strange place with unfamiliar tification, and Master Watchmaker tification exam. tools, satisfactory results are rarely certification. 3. Begin a full revision of the attained whether that task is turn- Other completed modules will Standards & Practices docu- ing out a balance staff or making a be added to these certifications as ment. bushing. Exam results have prov- endorsements, or endorsements can 4. Begin building the frame- en this to be true. It has become stand alone, such as the refinishing work and curriculum for the evident that the micromechanical endorsement. Legacy CW21 will Watchmaker Apprenticeship portion of the exam should be be redefined as Watchmakers with and the Appren- revised to better serve the watch- a micromechanical (or restoration) ticeship programs. making community at large. endorsement. Other endorsements 5. Discuss current Master The problem of differentiating could include refinishing, water- certifications and revised ex- between certifications arises with proofing, mentoring, and so on. ams or pathways. changes to the exam process. This All committee members are became evident as watchmakers Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 planning to attend. shared their views at a special Watch Section Head Education & Standards Committee The committee submitted a sur- meeting during the 2017 annual vey via email to all current Watch- convention. Does a modern watch- makers of the 21st Century (CW21) maker need to know how to ade- in February. The goal of this sur- quately use a lathe? Is the watch- Andrew DeKeyser is the owner of HCP Watchmaking in Sisters, vey is to evaluate any changes maker who does not own a lathe Oregon. He graduated from the Lititz Watch Technicum with made to the certification by seek- considered a watch technician? Is WOSTEP education.

8 March 2018 After taking the classes ‘21st Century Watchmaking “Standards’ and ‘Modern Mechanical Chronograph—ETA7750,’ I gained a great deal of knowledge as well as respect for the art of what we call watchmaking. Tom is an amazing instructor who is full of knowledge. I only wish I had more time to spend at AWCI because there truly is a limitless amount of knowledge to be found within the walls of AWCI. ~Sarkis Semerdjian ” TIME IS MONEY Increase the quality and quantity of your work and become more profitable with classes from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. We offer refresher and advanced courses designed to help you sharpen your skill set and stay current with the latest service techniques.

ARE YOU CERTIFIED? Invest in yourself by taking your skills to the next level, and becoming a Certified Watchmaker of the 21st Century (CW21). Becoming certified demonstrates your high level of expertise to your customers, elevates your store above the competition, and enhances the brands you carry. Start the process today by registering for our 21st Century Standards Course. Not sure which course to sign up for? Log onto our website and fill out our experience questionnaire or contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests.

Call or email our Education & Certification Coordinator today for more information: [email protected] or call 1-866-367-2924, ext 303 Book Review: Antique Watch Restoration, Vol III Antique Watch Restoration, Vol. III By Archie B. Perkins Published by American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute 256 pages Reviewed By Robert Loomes, FBHI $84.99 ($76.50 for members) ISBN: 978-0692983652 When I was a young man, I knew repairers who be- is simply introduced. Then slowly the techniques lieved in the “art and mystery” of watchmaking. If a required for the job are brought to life by both stranger walked into the watch workshop, then ev- his enthusiasm and by the splendid illustrations or eryone would put down their tools and sit there, un- photographs. moving. Their trade was top secret. The textbooks The opening section on hairspring work is tru- were dry and long. Often our books were, and still ly superb. There are good, if challenging, works on are, triumphs of pomposity, written by those who hairsprings by writers like Henry Fried, and there wanted to show off not just how much they knew, are good sections in books by Hans Jendritski or but how very, very difficult it all is. The message George Daniels. Perkins, however, delivers a 14- was: “You might read me, but you would be a fool to part, 78-page masterclass. try to reach my level of greatness.”

The Bulova School of Watchmaking Training Manual broke this mold in the 1940s. For a start, it was written in as plain a language as possible, and, to boot, it was published with superb illustrations and photographs. This training manual, designed for US servicemen returning to work after the war, made absolutely plain, perhaps for the first time in print, that most people can do this work. Perkins continues this new American approach. This is the third of his excellent volumes. Rather than being episodic, this collation of topics comes in no particular order. As with Volumes I and II, each chapter is complete in itself, and each describes one element of watchmaking or repairing. One topic

10 March 2018 It requires surprisingly little by way of mathemat- I rather liked that many drawings showed not just ics and physics, yet is copiously illustrated through- the component in a chuck but also where and how out with over 200 drawings of hairsprings. The to hold a graver to form the sections. Other chap- reader (or student is how you feel) is guided through ters include regulators, hands and dials, stems, mo- how to make, form, and repair almost every kind of tion work, truing and poising, the mainspring, blade spring. Fried-like, Perkins teases us through how to springs, and screws. repair the most awful, tangled nests that repairers If I found fault, it was only that, whilst most sec- sometimes find, illustrating both where and how to tions of the book seem very modern, there was scant bend and with which sorts of tweezers. mention of the watchmaker’s timing machine. The Perkins covers making hairsprings from the chapter on truing and poising balance wheels, whilst rolling of the wire to the pinned, completed article. beautifully photographed and illustrated with line With more superb line drawings he illustrates the drawings, seems a little old-fashioned in this century. methods for making spring winding boxes and then If I leapt for joy, though, it was for the overall on to making, slotting, and transverse drilling the number of line drawings and photographs. I cannot inner collet. think of any other book that, frame by frame, illus- Most elements of overcoiling are covered, includ- trates the turning of a balance staff from scratch, ing the double overcoil as used by a number of mod- how the pivots are cut and then ground to size and ern manufacturers. The theory is easily explained, as shape, and finally lapped with boxwood. The photo- is the practicality of forming the coils. Each section graphs demonstrate exactly which cuts to make and ends with a comprehensive bibliography, and it is ob- from what angles. Every topic has this same atten- vious that Perkins had a very clear working knowl- tion to detail. edge of the canon of texts on watchmaking, coupled If you wanted to do something with this one vol- with significant experience “at the bench.” ume, you could seriously improve an ordinary pocket The second and larger half of the book is split watch. Perkins would help you to refine the balance into 10 distinct chapters, each going into great de- complete, perhaps introducing an overcoil of your tail. One, for example, on bushing stem holes and own choosing, and chasing chronometer standards. making a new stem describes a variety of techniques You could then make all the Maltese-cross stopwork for bushing and then an exemplar of how to make a to ensure you used only the best section of main- replacement stem. It also is superbly illustrated, and spring. It would be a very fine watch, indeed.

Horological Times 11 Book Review: Antique Watch Restoration, Vol III

Trained at the Elgin Watchmaker’s College, Perkins demystifies. He never tries to suggest Perkins went straight from being student to teacher. that watchmaking is in any way difficult or special. It is clear he had an extraordinary talent for leading He explains, step by step, how to do it and reas- the student or reader. Throughout the book, he is the sures you that, with practice, you will eventually guiding voice of a lifetime of experience, both teaching make perfect. and practicing. Frequently, he explains how to get out Volume III is, sadly, a posthumous work, as of trouble, or how to solve some of the simple yet Archie B. Perkins died during preparation for its frustrating problems a watchmaker encounters. He publication. It is probably the finest of the three can even foresee where you may go wrong and warn volumes for the hairspring section alone. you gently away. There are few horological authors Robert Loomes is the technical director of a traditional family business with a skilled staff of 12, both restoring and making clocks and watches. They are one of a tiny number of 21st-century who share their mistakes so generously. watchmakers who have created every component to make their own wristwatches, having mastered such obscure arts as hairspring making, jewel cutting, and enameling. He is the current vice-chairman of the British Horological Institute.

Antique Watch Restoration, Vol. III

NOW AVAILABLE! ONLY $76.50 for members! Plus Shipping & Handling www.awci.com/online-store/ Buy all Three for or call only 513-367-9800 $250 plus shipping & handling

“Antique Watch Restoration, Volumes I & II are comprehensive books that contain plenty of hard-to-find, useful, practical information. These are the first books I consult when searching for a solution to part-making in restoration.” Buy one, two, OR ALL THREE today! Henrik Korpela Korpela & Hofs Watchmaking Competence Centre www.awci.com/online-store/ Le Locle, Switzerland

12 March 2018 Technical Discussion: Cuckoo Clock Bellows Repair CUCKOO CLOCK Bellows Repair

By Paul Corn

hen an older cuckoo clock comes in for for repair. Under normal use, in time the leather will Wrepair, often the leather bellows have dry- break down and tear at the folds. The only time that rotted due to age or have torn from moving about the bellows are covered again with leather is during or from use, Figure 1. It is not uncommon for leather restoration of older antique clocks. This is usually bellows to be in useable shape until the clock is discussed with the customer during the restoration packed up, placed in a moving van, and travels for process because of the cost of the leather. In modern several miles. If the packing clips are not placed cuckoo clocks manufactured today, the bellows are on the bellows for shipping, the leather bellows will covered with Tyvek. become unusable due to tears caused by the jiggling Clock material houses sell Tyvek bellows paper of the moving van. In modern cuckoo clocks, the sheets, pre-cut Tyvek paper, leather material, and bellows are covered with Tyvek, which is a non- bellows tops covered with Tyvek. Some repairers porous, paper-like material. Tyvek eliminates the will attempt to cover the bellows with the Tyvek tearing and dry rotting, Figure 2. material used in the large envelopes that the postal Bellows repair can be done in two ways: re-cov- service sells. I have tried it in the shop and found ering the bellows or replacing the bellows tops. I will that the Tyvek of the postal envelopes is too thick to discuss both re-covering and replacing the bellows be used for the bellows tops. top. Older cuckoo clock bellows were covered with a Once the repairer learns to re-cover bellows, it is thin leather. These are what I normally see coming in almost as easy to re-cover the bellows as it is to replace

Fig. 1 Fig. 2

Horological Times 13 Technical Discussion: Cuckoo Clock Bellows Repair

the bellows tops as far as time goes, and it will save pre-cut bellows material, the only cutting tool you money. You might have to work on about three needed is a pair of scissors for the hinges. When sets of bellows before you get the hang of re-covering using pre-cut bellows papers, it is advisable to order them. If you use precut bellows paper, you don’t have a selection of them. You will have to sacrifice one or to do the measuring and cutting. Just find the right two of the smaller ones to use as hinges. size and do the gluing and folding. You could start After the bellows are removed from the clock, with a discarded bellows top and experiment using measure the height that the bellows will open from printer paper for the covering material so you don’t the bottom of the small piece of wood to half of the use up the Tyvek material while you are learning the top piece of wood. This measurement will be the basics of cutting and folding the paper. However, height of the paper, Figure 3. You could dot the top note that printer paper is not suitable material for bel- edges of the bellows with the marker near where the lows because it will soon tear. Use it only for practice. lifter pin and the bird tilt wire are located. This will Trapezoid bellows are re-covered the same as rectan- help you locate the area of the hole where the pin gular bellows. and wire are after the bellows is re-covered. Using the end nippers, remove the lifter pins and the bird Re-Covering the Bellows with tilt wire and set aside. While holding the complete Sheet Material bellows top and whistle in one hand, use the Dremel The first step is to have the tools and material at hand tool to sand away all of the old leather around both before you start. The tools you will need are a Dremel pieces of the bellows top. Do this outside or where rotary tool with a drum sander, end nippers, spring the dust won’t spread around the shop. After the clamps, a razor knife, a piece of glass, a straight edge, sanding and after all of the leather is removed, you scissors, a ruler, a felt-tipped marker, toothpicks or should have clean wood. Place the spring clamps on cotton swabs such as Q-tips, and glue of your choice. the bellows to hold them in order to glue on the I use contact cement. Note: If you will be using hinge, Figure 4.

Fig. 3 Fig. 4

14 March 2018 The hinges are cut from a piece of the Tyvek Fig. 6 the width of the bellows top and from the bottom of the small piece up halfway on the angle of the thicker top piece. Using a toothpick or cotton swab, place glue on the two wood pieces where the hinge is to go. You don’t need to use a paint brush to glue the bellows paper on; using a toothpick or cotton swab makes cleanup easier, Figure 5. Next, place the hinge and smooth it out, Figure 6. Do this for the

other bellows top. Fig. 7 Next is measuring, folding, and cutting the paper. Once the height is established, measure around the bellows to find total length. You could use a string to measure around the bellows or just use the measuring tools that you have to find the total length. When the height and length are found, cut two strips. Place the strips together and fold over. At the folded part make a dot with the marker one-half the length of the front Fig. 8 of the bellows. Do this for the other side also. Fold the back end of the two strips in half and place a dot at the fold, Figure 7. Place the strips on the piece of glass and, using a straight edge, cut from the back dot to one of the side dots, and do the same for the other side, Figure 8. When the strips are unfolded they will look like the ones in Figure 9.

Fig. 5 Fig. 9

Horological Times 15 Technical Discussion: Cuckoo Clock Bellows Repair

When applying the glue, it is crucial to only place Fig. 11 the glue on the sides of the bellows and not on the inside of the bellows. If glue is placed inside of the bellows, they will stick and not work well. By this time the glue on the hinges should be dry enough to re-cover the rest of the bellows. When the bellows are in the closed position, place glue on the front part of the bellows. Place glue on all of the bottom piece and only halfway up on the top piece. Open the bellows up and place the paper on the bottom Fig. 12 piece straight across and press down with your finger. Then, place the paper on half of the top piece and press down with your finger. Rub across both pieces to set the paper in the glue. It should look like Figure 10. Carefully place glue on the side of the bellows, both pieces, but only halfway up on the top piece. Holding the pointed end, bring the paper up on the bottom piece so it is all the way to the bottom of the bottom piece, and do the same for half of the Fig. 13 top piece. Press down and rub with your finger, Figure 11. Do the same for the other side of the bellows, Figure 12. Place some glue on a toothpick and rub the glue on the inside of both the pointed ends and press down with a clean toothpick so you don’t get glue on your fingers, Figure 13. The bellows top should look like Figure 14. Fig. 10 Fig. 14

16 March 2018 To start the folds, pinch both front sides of the Fig. 17 paper with your finger and thumb, and then push in with your finger on the front piece. Using the side of a toothpick, push inward on both sides, one at a time. At the same time, push down on the top piece and the folds will form, Figure 15. After the folds are formed, squeeze in a smooth jaw vice to set the folds, Figure 16. The bellows should look like Figure 17. Figures 18 and 19 show the completed bellows. Sometimes the paper that holds the weight in the recess is torn and/or the weight is missing. To make Fig. 18 a weight to replace the missing one(s), just wind up a piece of solid core solder and place it in the recess.

Fig. 15

Fig. 19 Fig. 16

Horological Times 17 Technical Discussion: Cuckoo Clock Bellows Repair

The bellows weights vary from one-day movements Fig. 20 to eight-day movements. If the replacement weight is too heavy, remove some of the solder until the weights lift and drop in a steady motion, Figure 20. Then, cut out a piece of wrapping paper and glue on the top of the bellows. Tip: I use wrapping paper from the jew- elry store because it is a heavier weight and there are different colors to choose from. Replacing the Bellows Tops

The bellows tops are sold in pairs, left and right, Fig. 21 Figure 21. As with re-covering, it is always best to replace both of the tops even if only one of the bellows is damaged. If you replace only one of the tops, the clock will come back soon with the other one damaged. Before you remove the tops from the whistle, look at the orientation of the tops as compared to the whistle. When installed in the clock, some of the tops face towards the front of the clock case and other tops face towards each other, Figures 19 and 22. Two different clocks are

Fig. 22

18 March 2018 shown to illustrate the different orientation of the Fig. 23 bellows tops. When a complete whistle and top need to be purchased to replace a missing one or one that is beyond repair, the orientation of the whistle and top is important to know. When replacing the tops, there are two styles of whistles that the repair person will encounter. The older style will be made all from wood, left, and the newer style will be of wood and plastic, right, Figure 23. Holding the whistle in one hand and the top in the other hand, snap the top off. Sometimes, once Fig. 24 the top is snapped off, there will be wood parts or old glue left on the top of the whistle. In my shop, I place the whistle up against the bench and, using a sharp wood chisel lying flat, scrape across the top of the whistle to remove old glue and debris, Figure 24. Removing the debris this way lessens the chance of cutting oneself with the chisel. Using a scrap piece of wood will help to protect the bench edge. Some repairers might prefer to use a scrap piece of wood on top of the bench and move the chisel in a down- ward direction. Work with one bellows at a time. Once the top is removed from one of the bellows, look at the hole pins in the new bellows tops, place the bellows tops in the old bellows top and match it with the hole up against the edge of the bench when pushing the in the new bellows top. Using a small drill in a pin pins in. This will provide a backup for the bellows vice, drill the holes in the new tops to match where tops to keep from damaging them. the lifter pins and bird tilt wire were in the old top. Using a toothpick, place contact cement or glue Don’t drill all of the way; just enough to start the of your choice on top of the whistle and on the bot- pin/tilt wire. Place the end nippers on the lifter pin tom of the bellows top around the hole where the next to the wood part of the old bellows top and bellows top will seat onto the whistle. Let the two gently pry to one side and pull the pin out. While pieces dry for a few minutes before putting them holding the pin in the end nippers, transfer the pin together. Do the same for the other bellows top and to the new bellows top. Do the same for the other whistle. Tip: Save the old bellows tops to practice top and the bird tilt wire. Tip: When pushing the your re-covering skills.

Horological Times 19 Technical Discussion: Cuckoo Clock Bellows Repair Join us at our Adjusting the Bellows for Proper Lift and Drop NEW Horology Fair! This event will be open to the public and ALL are welcome to sell their When everything is repaired and put back in place, horological wares. You will want to attend the Horology Fair if— it’s time to do the testing. Seldom does the bellows' ►► You have watchmaking or clockmaking lift and drop need adjustment. When they do need tools you want to sell. adjusting, you want the bellows to lift until they ►► You are new to horology and need to buy used tools at a reasonable price. are halfway open before they drop. Use the slot- ►► You have your own watch brand and want to ted bending tools to make this adjustment. Bend get it in front of an audience of watch lovers. the movement lifter(s) upward to make the bellows ►► You are a watch or clock collector with open higher before drop, or bend the lifter(s) down pieces you’d like to sell. to make them open less before drop. ►► You are a vendor of services for other horol- ogists or the general public. ►► You are ready to update your horological Paul Corn is an independent clockmaker and owner of Fine Clock Repairing in Waldorf, Maryland. tools and equipment and are looking for the very best you can afford. ►► You manufacture and/or distribute horologi- cal tools and equipment. ►► You want to learn more about horology and want to meet others who share your passion. Our prices make it easy for ALL to attend and exhibit! ENTRY FEES: TABLE FEES: • FREE for • $25 each for convention convention attendees attendees • $10 for AWCI • $50 each for Members the public • $15 for the public FULL REGISTRATION: (includes classes, keynote address, events, and more to be announced in upcoming months.) $479 Reserve your room today! $134/night includes breakfast 20 March 2018 Tour the Texas State Capitol. Just like everything in Texas,

it's BIGGER and BETTER. Austin, Texas October 10-13, 2018 American Watchmakers–Clockmakers Institute

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HOROLOGY FAIR

Set Up, Sell, Buy... share your passion ! www.awci.com/timecon Technical Discussion: How to Select and Maintain a Lathe Suited for Horology, Part 1 How to Select and Maintain a Lathe Suited for Horology

By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 Part 1: How to Select a Lathe History precision on a mass scale at a speed that cannot be Berner defines the lathe as a “machine tool for turn- matched by manual machines. ing and forming with a hand tool or with the help of a slide. With its many accessories, the lathe can be Safety used for the most varied types of work.”1 The lathe To avoid injury, these general safety precautions is an extremely versatile tool and has been used ex- should always be observed when operating a lathe.4 tensively in the horological field. • Wear appropriate safety glasses. Historians believe the ancient Egyptians invent- • Remove all entanglement hazards such as ed the first lathe around 1300 BC. Similar mecha- loose clothing, jewelry, etc. nisms have been found in ancient Assyrian, Greek, • Ensure the work piece is securely clamped and Roman areas at later dates. Initial primitive de- to the lathe. signs were operated by two people; one person rotat- • Remove chuck wrench immediately after ad- ed the work piece and the other used the cutting tool justing chuck. to form the work piece.2 Later evolutions used a bow • Use a barrier guard when operating the lathe to rotate the work and a foot pedal with a pole to in semiautomatic or automatic mode. power the rotation. These designs allowed the lathe • Guard all power transmission parts. to be operated by one person.3 • Remove all tools, measuring instruments, The lathe was the backbone of many machine and other objects from saddle or lathe bed factories, notably watch and clock factories, and before starting machine. played a pivotal role in the Industrial Revolution. • Keep all lathe cutting tools sharp. The lathe continues to be the cornerstone piece of • Stop lathe before taking measurements of equipment in modern watchmaking and clockmak- any kind. ing shops to this day. Smaller operations generally • Use a vacuum, brush, or rake to remove chips use manually operated lathes, while larger produc- only after the lathe has stopped moving. tion operations use computer numerical controlled • Keep working surface clean of scraps, tools, (CNC) lathes. CNC lathes afford a higher degree of and materials. • Keep floor around lathe clean and free of oil 1. G.-A. Berner, Illustrated Professional Dictionary of Horology (La Chaux-de-Fonds, Neuchâtel, Switzerland: Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, 1961), 869. and grease. 2. Ward Goodrich, The Watchmakers' Lathe (Fox River Grove, Illinois: North America Watch Tool & Supply Company, 1974), 8-9. 4. Safety, Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety (January 21, 2018), 3. Lathe, Wikipedia (January 21, 2018), wikipedia.org/wiki/Lathe. www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_haz/metalworking/lathes.

22 March 2018 The Basic Construction of a Lathe

A precision lathe has a headstock spindle and tailstock runner that are true, exactly in line with each other at all points of the lathe bed. The parts bearing the strains of op- eration are proportioned so that they will with- Fig. 1. The principal parts of the lathe. stand working strains without springing.5 The most basic construction of a lathe consists of a bed, headstock, and tool rest. The bed is the base of the lathe and must be

both accurate and rigid Fig. 2. Cone bearing headstock construction. because all other compo- nents of the lathe are built on the bed’s foundation.6 There are two ba- sic types of bearings used in lathe head- stocks: sleeve or cone bearings, Figure 2, and

7 ball bearings, Figure 3. Fig. 3. Ball bearing headstock construction.

5. Goodrich, The Watchmakers' Lathe, 21. 6. Donald de Carle, The Watchmaker's and Model Engineer's Lathe: A User's Manual (London, England: Robert Hale Publishing, 1998), 3. 7. de Carle, The Watchmaker's and Model Engineer's Lathe, 10.

Horological Times 23 Technical Discussion: How to Select and Maintain a Lathe Suited for Horology, Part 1

Larger lathes may use roller bearings, but the basic bearings should always be purchased as a matched set working principle is similar to ball bearings. because they are precision ground at the factory to Cone bearings support the spindle in the head- ensure the mating surfaces are perfectly flat. Preci- stock by means of cone-shaped bearings at the front sion ball bearings are sealed and need no additional and rear of the headstock housing. The front spindle lubrication, reducing foreign debris contamination. bearing directly contacts the rotating spindle. The rear bearing contacts a sleeve that rotates with the The Lathe to Meet Your Needs spindle to allow for assembly and disassembly of the The lathe is a tool with many accessories to accom- spindle and headstock. They are adjusted to have min- modate a vast range of operations. An entire watch or imal endshake and sideshake by means of a split nut clock can be made on a properly equipped lathe. This at the rear of the spindle. Endshake must be present makes the lathe an essential part of any restoration to allow the spindle to rotate. Sideshake is an unwel- or manufacturing workshop. Samuel Levin once said, come side effect of the cone bearing construction. As “The variety of jobs [the watchmaker] can do with the bearings wear, the adjusting nut can be tightened [the lathe] is limited only by the number of accesso- to keep the endshake and sideshake at a minimum. ries with which it is furnished.”9 So, when choosing a Cone bearings are most commonly made from hard- lathe, the type of work to be performed and what ac- ened steel or bronze for longevity. Both materials can cessories are available for that particular lathe that can be reconditioned or reground as outlined by Archie perform that work must first be considered. Perkins in The Watchmaker’s Lathe and How to Use It, Some restoration, repair, or manufacturing work is pages 83-87. 8 Cone bearings should always be oiled better accomplished by using a mill. Generally, a lathe and kept very clean. can be equipped to do most mill work (however, not Precision ball bearing headstocks use three bear- ideally in all situations), but a mill cannot always be used ings to suspend the spindle in the headstock with to perform lathe work. The major difference between no sideshake or endshake. The two bearings nearest these machines in their standard operation is that a the collet seat are known as angular contact bearings mill’s cutting tool is rotated; whereas the work piece is and are arranged in a preloaded condition to reduce rotated in a lathe. If the majority of your machine work premature wear and chatter in operation. The third consists of precisely locating holes, a mill would better bearing supports the tail end of the spindle in the suit you. However, if your work spans a variety of op- headstock. As these bearings wear, tightening the nut erations, a lathe will likely satisfy your needs. against the rear bearing can compensate for endshake, The size of the lathe is dictated by the size of but sideshake can only be corrected by replacing the the work you plan to perform. Precision bench-top bearings. Replacing ball bearings can be difficult and lathes come in a variety of sizes, so you must de- expensive but is also rarely needed. Angular contact cide what center height (or swing), bore diameter,

8. Archie B. Perkins, The Modern Watchmakers Lathe and How to Use It (Harrison, Ohio: American 9. Louis and Samuel Levin, Practical Benchwork for Horologists (Los Angeles, California: Louis Levin & Son, Watchmaker's-Clockmaker's Institute, 2003). 1942).

24 March 2018 and bed length, Figure 4, will best accommodate certain attachments, such as a pneumatic bar feed, the work you wish to perform. Center height de- Figures 5 and 6, should be considered. This is termines the largest diameter of stock that can be particularly advantageous in production environ- turned on the lathe. Bore diameter determines the ments. Certain collets are made so that the diameter largest diameter the work piece can be when pass- of the stock is greater than the spindle bore diam- ing through the headstock. When machining stock eter, Figure 7. Four-jaw chucks, Figure 8; three-jaw that extends out of the back of the headstock, chucks and six-jaw chucks/bezel chucks, Figure 9;

Fig. 4. Fig. 5. Hardinge pneumatic bar feed.

Fig. 6. Fig. 7. A collet with a larger-than- spindle-bore diameter on the left with a standard W20 collet on the right.

Fig. 8. Fig. 9. Bezel chuck and three-jaw chuck. Myford Super 7 four-jaw chuck.

Horological Times 25 Technical Discussion: How to Select and Maintain a Lathe Suited for Horology, Part 1

step chucks and ring chucks, Figure 10; and face- Lathes come with a variety of bed shapes that plates all allow clamping stock diameters larger than are sometimes proprietary to the brand. When con- the spindle bore diameter. sidering purchasing a lathe, a thorough inventory of any attachments already in possession should be made to ensure the bed style is compatible. Consid- eration for the types and availability of attachments that can be used on the bed style should also be con- sidered. Whenever possible, a single style for similar sized lathes should be used throughout the shop to make it possible to use accessories on all lathes mak- ing a more versatile machine shop. Common shapes Fig. 10. From left to right: ring chuck, step chuck, and midget step chuck. include Webster-Whitcomb or WW style, Figure 11; Geneva pattern, Figure 12; Schaublin prismatic, Fig. 11. Webster- Figure 13; or Hardinge dovetail, Figure 14. Whitcomb.

Fig. 12. Geneva style.

Fig. 13. Schaublin prismatic.

Fig. 14. Hardinge dovetail.

26 March 2018 Several collet designs and Fig. 15. A variety of collet sizes from left to sizes are available on the new right; ER 11, 6mm, 8mm, W8, 10mm, ER 16, W12, Myford collet, ER 25, 3C, W20, 5C. and used market. Shown in Figure 15 is a sampling of the sizes available. The most com- mon would be the 8mm, all ER sizes, and 5C. Some uncommon but use- ful lathe capabilities to con- sider when purchasing should include screw-cutting capabilities and bull-gearing In addition, power feed allows for very consistent sur- features. A screw-cutting lathe has a carriage and face finish. slide assembly that can be automatically advanced at Bull gearing allows a lathe to turn at very low speed a set rate in relation to the rotation of the spindle, and high torque. This is particularly useful when part- Figure 16. This allows the operator to cut very fine ing off a part, when cutting threads, or when per- and precise threads, such as those on a pendulum rod. forming any other precarious operation where a slower

Fig. 16. Myford Super 7 carriage assembly with lead screw visible under front edge of bed.

Horological Times 27 Technical Discussion: How to Select and Maintain a Lathe Suited for Horology, Part 1

rotational speed is war- ranted. Reduction gears within the headstock reduce the rotation of the pulley to the spindle by as much as 10 times. Lathes such as the My- ford Super 7 and Schau- blin 102SV have this feature built in. Fig. 17. Myford Super 7 back gears and gearbox for controlling power feed Accessories for screw-cutting capabilities. Numerous accessories are available for a horolo- operator can machine with precision with an imperial gist’s lathe, and I will not attempt to make an exhaus- accessory and a metric technical drawing or vice tive list here. Donald de Carle,10 Samuel and Louis versa. So, pricing, availability, and preference be- Levin,11 and Archie Perkins12 detail a large sampling tween metric and imperial accessories should all be of accessories in their books. Before purchasing a considered when purchasing a lathe. particular lathe, learn what accessories are avail- In part 2 of this series, I will cover the best able for it so you will know all the possibilities that practices for buying a lathe secondhand. lathe and its accessories can create. The availability Works Cited of the desired accessories should guide the decision Berner, G.-A. Illustrated Professional Dictionary of Horology. Translated by M. D.-J. Gillam. La to purchase a certain lathe. Chaux-de-Fonds, Neuchâtel, Switzerland: Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, 1961. de Carle, Donald. The Watchmaker's and Model Engineer's Lathe: A User's Manual. 5th ed. London, England: Robert Hale Publishing, 1998. Metric or Imperial Goodrich, Ward. The Watchmakers' Lathe. Fox River Grove, Illinois: North America Watch Tool & Most lathes have options when it comes to the choice Supply Company, 1974. Lathe. Wikipedia, (January 21, 2018): wikipedia.org/wiki/Lathe. of imperial or metric accessories. This is an area of Levin, Louis and Samuel. Practical Benchwork for Horologists. 3rd ed. Los Angeles, California: operator preference that does not ultimately affect Louis Levin & Son, 1942. the end results that can be obtained from either Perkins, Archie. B. The Modern Watchmakers Lathe and How to Use It. Harrison, Ohio: Ameri- can Watchmaker's-Clockmaker's Institute, 2003. choice. Both metric and imperial measuring denom- Safety, Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety, (January 21, 2018), www.ccohs.ca/ minations can yield precise work and converting oshanswers/safety_haz/metalworking/lathes. between them is a simple calculation. Both systems Figures 1 - 3 are used with permission. The Watchmaker's and Model Engineer's Lathe, Donald de Carle, The Crowood Press Ltd. ISBN: 978 07090 9003 8 are based on denominations of 10 so the skilled

10. de Carle, The Watchmaker's and Model Engineer's Lathe. Andrew DeKeyser is the owner of HCP Watchmaking in Sisters, Oregon. He graduated from the Lititz 11. Levin, Practical Benchwork for Horologists. Watch Technicum with WOSTEP education. 12. Perkins, The Modern Watchmakers Lathe and How to Use It.

28 March 2018 The Modern Watchmakers Lathe And How to Use It By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FAWI, FNAWCC, FBHI AWCI members pay only $89.99 (plus shipping & handling)

Any course in watchmaking, clockmaking, and repairing would not be complete without adequate instruction and practice in using the watchmaker’s lathe as well as instruction and prac- “Columbia is home to one of the tice in using saws and files. When restoring antique watches and clocks, the restorer must be skilled in the use of the lathe, world’s only horology museums.” saws, and files to make and alter parts to fit the mechanisms. - Smithsonian Magazine This book will teach you these skills! With more than 400 pages and 548 illustrations, it is a powerhouse of information and in- The Smithsonian UPCOMING struction by one of the most extraordinarily talented teachers Magazine ranked CLASSES and authors, Archie B. Perkins. Each chapter includes a sum- Columbia, PA, among the mary, questions about material in the chapter, and a reference top 20 best small towns to guide for further reading. Watch Crystals visit in the United States, Get your copy today! in part, because of its March 29, 2018 strength in history. Not a member? Join today at Hairspring Adjustment The National Watch www.awci.com/member-center/membership-form April 28-May 1, 2018 & Clock Museum in Purchase your book online at Columbia includes Contact the Education Department 19th-century American at 717.684.8261, ext. 237 www.awci.com/online-store clocks and watches and or [email protected]. timekeepers from around Check out www.museumoftime.org the world. for more info.

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Horological Times 29 Industry NEWS

Large-Scale Watch Manufacturing Facility Planned in Arizona

By Aaron Recksiek, CW21

he announcement of a partnership between As part of the deal, FTS has also secured a part- Ta newly formed company, FTS USA, and nership with Indian watch brand Titan to “sell them the East Valley Institute of Technology (EVIT) in parts, share technical expertise, and use the venture Fountain Hills, Arizona, occurred at a small, unpub- to broaden the reach and familiarity of its products licized event on January 10, 2018. The plans include outside India.” AWCI reached out to EVIT about the the creation of a watch-manufacturing facility able announcement, and a representative from the com- to produce “about 30,000 movements and up to pany directed all questions about program details to 15,000 or so assembled watches in the first full year FTS. After contacting FTS, we were informed that of production.” Many of the speeches given during adult trainees will start late spring and high school the event included the theme “The rebirthing of the students will start in the fall. AWCI is planning to American watch-manufacturing industry.” EVIT will visit the facility when their operations are up and lease space on the new Fountain Hills campus to running. FTS, and in exchange FTS will provide education- The goals of FTS to manufacture watches in al opportunities to high school students and adults the Phoenix suburb began with ties its founder and related to the manufacture and assembly of watch CEO, Kunal Naik, has to the Zee Watch Group and components and complete watches. Presumably, the several small startup brands. The Zee Watch Group education offered will be to train individuals for is the only US distributor of Titan watches. Titan specific roles within the watch manufacturing pro- watches are made by Titan Company Limited, a sub- cess, and they will be offered jobs within the com- sidiary of the Tata Group, an Indian conglomerate. pany after completion of the training. Initial reports Kunal is the managing director of Zee’s Internation- are that the facility could employ up to 200 to 300 al Inc., and CEO and lead designer of watch brands people from the local community. Swisstek and Brillier.

30 March 2018 Along with his father, Santosh Naik, Kunal has However, it seems feasible that with enough cap- been trying to support and promote the “Made in ital investment and manufacturing expertise from a America” watch-manufacturing industry for sever- well-established watch company, the goals proposed al years. In promotional material, by the FTS announcement may be swisstekwatches.com, brillier.com, obtainable. Whether or not the mar- and zeewatchgroup.com express the ket will support a “Made in Ameri- desire of “…bringing the full crafts- ca” timepiece with enough quantity manship of watchmaking back to to justify the proposed $200 to $600 to America. … The assembly of price range is uncertain. The US The “Native Watch” of Brillier’s original timepieces in the USA is the first Kickstarter campaign. watch-manufacturing industry has Photo courtesy of Zee Watch Group step towards a 100% American watch- been rebuilding for some time; it’s making project spearheaded by Kunal Naik of Zee only a matter of time before a major player enters the Watch Group. With technical collaborations from field to push it to the mass-market level. leading global watch component manufacturers, an

aspiration that will soon become reality.” Sources: www.azcentral.com/story/money/business/2018/01/21/ Bringing watch manufacturing back to the United arizona-company-titan-partner-east-valley-institute- technology-watch-manufacturing/1008871001 States on this scale is an extremely ambitious project. www.brillier.com To realize the challenges they face, look no far- www.swisstekwatches.com www.zeewatchgroup.com ther than the unsuccessful Kickstarter campaign in en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Titan_Company November 2015 by Brillier watches. The goal of the en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tata_Group original Kickstarter campaign was to generate enough www.kickstarter.com/projects/brillier/ the-americana-project-by-brillier/description interest to fund the design, manufacture, and assem- bly of watches in the US. They attempted to raise $30,000 for production of the “Native Watch,” a

timepiece inspired by the American Southwest, but Aaron Recksiek is an independent watchmaker in Salt Lake City, Utah. He is a graduate of the 2008 WOSTEP class at the Lititz Watch Technicum. only reached $16,718.

Horological Times 31 Industry News

Tourneau Is Acquired by European-Based Bucherer

By Aaron Recksiek, CW21

February of 2017, we reported that America’s firmed that at the end of 2017 and into 2018 the retail In largest luxury watch retailer, Tourneau, was sales and service volume had notably increased. being shopped around by owners Leonard Green & The Bucherer Group, founded in 1888, operates Partners, a private equity firm. On January 31, 2018, 72 watch and jewelry stores (33 under the Bucherer it was announced that Bucherer, the leading luxury name) across Switzerland, Germany, Austria, France, watch retailer in Switzerland and Europe, had and Denmark, including the world's largest jewelry and acquired Tourneau. Financial details of the sale were watch store in the center of Paris with a sales area of not disclosed. more than 23,000 square feet. In a press release, According to a Tourneau executive, Guido Zumbühl, CEO of the Bucherer part of the terms of the purchase Group, said, “With this acquisition, was the desire to retain the man- we will immediately introduce the agement personnel of Tourneau. Bucherer brand to millions of The executive disclosed that the potential customers in one of the sale had been pending for sever- most important global watch and

C al months as representatives from a 0 jewelry markets. This is also a great r 0 l 0 F. 2 B A Bucherer had been visiting during that uch FB opportunity to firmly establish the Carl erer Caliber C time. The executive was excited about the sale and F. Bucherer brand in the US and introduce Bucherer expressed that this opportunity will serve to improve Fine Jewellery into the North American market.” In both brands and expand what Tourneau has to offer 1924, Ernst Bucherer (the second generation of the in the United States. Plans are also continuing to move family business), developed a relationship with Rolex forward to begin another class of students at the founder, Hans Wilsdorf, to become one of the first Tourneau Watchmaking School for New York City. retailers of Rolex watches. This relationship with After a sluggish sales year in 2016, it was also con- Rolex continues to this day as one of the strongest

32 March 2018 Bucherer store in Locarno, Switzerland.

partnerships Rolex has with any retailer. The group Sources: www.bucherer.com/da/node/3338 also owns Bucherer Montres SA, a watch manufacture www.bucherer.com/da/company/history en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tourneau in central Switzerland that produces the Carl F. Bu- www.tourneau.com cherer brand. Owned by the third generation of the Bucherer family, the group employs more than 1,500 Aaron Recksiek is an independent watchmaker in Salt Lake City, Utah. He is a graduate of the 2008 WOSTEP class at the Lititz Watch Technicum. people. In 2011, they had a gross sales estimate of nearly $800 million. Tourneau was founded in 1900 in Europe. In 1925, the Tourneau brothers immigrated to New York City and opened a small dressmaking shop and watch counter shortly after. Currently, the company has 26 locations nationwide, including the flagship store, the would you TimeMachine on 57th Street in New York City, and like to read the Tourneau Time Dome in Las Vegas. These are the two largest watch stores in the world at 16,000 square what makes feet and 17,000 square feet respectively. Tourneau is brits tick? the largest authorized retailer of timepieces in the United States with about 8,000 watches and 100 differ- The Horological Journal – published monthly without fail since 1858 – gives you exclusive ent brands. Gross revenue of the company is estimated technical articles and practical updates on clock and watch making. to be around $40 million. You’ll find news on the latest issue and how to get it at www.bhi.co.uk

Horological Times 33 ChronoMaster – unique & clever Plug-in! Connect the clever ChronoMaster easily with your PC or tablet. modular Application-specific functionality Distributed by: efficient Simultaneous testing in combination with the Micromat C ergonomic User-friendly operation using four buttons on the ChronoMaster convenient Plug & play! Making work a pleasure! www.casker.com

Curious? Your Witschi specialists are here to help you. www.julesborel.com

www.witschi.com

When you are not sure if you can get parts: Visit AWCI’s Brand Directory awci.com/brand-directory Creating our new Directory of Spare We do not list brands in this direc- We know that sometimes you will A link to the directory appears on Parts Policies was hard work. The com- tory until they have been given ample have an experience that conflicts the AWCI home page so that consum- mittee spent many long hours on the opportunity to respond to the survey. with what a particular brand report- ers can openly see which brands sup- phone with watch brands to get the Once we have recorded their respons- ed in their survey results. Use this port independent repairpersons. responses you see at awci.com—and es, the results immediately appear on directory as a tool. When you are told Brand representatives who feel their the work is not done. This directory our web page. Brands that decline to you cannot order parts for a brand company has been misrepresented is a dynamic list, and the committee participate in the survey will appear that has indicated they sell parts to should contact AWCI so that we can ac- continues to reach out to brands in an in the directory with a note indicating watchmakers, please take the time to curately report their company’s policies. effort to complete the list. their refusal to participate. explain to the representative that in When members of the watch-col- We hope this directory will be a recent survey they reported to the lecting community visit the directory, a valuable tool in your workshop. American Watchmakers-Clockmakers they will see critical information to When you see a brand that isn’t on Institute that they sold parts to watch- help them make an informed decision the list, we would like your help. makers. Mention the name of the indi- about purchasing a watch based on the A blank copy of the full survey is vidual who gave the survey responses. brand’s after-sales service and spare available at awci.com. Please take If you still do not get the same results, parts policies. As a member of AWCI, every opportunity to ask watch brands ask them if they would like to submit when you log in to the webpage, you to participate in the survey. Record new responses to the survey. Please will see the complete survey responses your responses and send them to AWCI report your findings to AWCI. and contact information. so we can update our directory.

34 March 2018 Column: From the Workshop From the Workshop By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI

Bananas and Batteries ger shelf life than the silver oxide ones. Make certain all Batteries and bananas have something in common. current battery stock is fresh enough to sell. That is, they both have a limited shelf life. While a. Set up a stock rotation procedure. Obtain bananas have neither production date nor sell-by date a second battery cabinet to duplicate the one imprinted on them, their age is easily determined already in use. One battery cabinet is used ex- by their color change from green to yellow to black. clusively for retail battery sales and the sec- Batteries also slowly deteriorate with age but without ond is dedicated to battery storage. Divide the any apparent change in their color or physical existing stock roughly in half. The freshest appearance; however, like an overripe banana, they batteries go into the storage cabinet. The old- eventually become unsalable and need to be disposed est go into the sales cabinet. All batteries sold of properly through a recycling facility. should come from the sales cabinet. Produce managers do their best to sell all of their b. When a battery is out of stock in the sales bananas and dispose of as few as possible. They do cabinet, replacement stock from the storage this by: cabinet is transferred to the sales cabinet. a. Rotating their stock by selling the old- Make an entry in an order book or computer est bananas first. The oldest ones are on the indicating that battery needs to be reordered produce counter, and the newest ones are in from the vendor. When the new batteries ar- controlled-environment storage so as not to rive they go into the storage cabinet. Some accelerate their aging. batteries have a production date or sell-by b. Utilizing past sales data to stock only as date on the package, making it easy to deter- many bananas as they expect to sell in a giv- mine their age. For other new batteries that en time period. Having too many unsold ba- do not have a sell-by date or date code, mark nanas that will become rotten or not having the date they are received on that battery lot enough to meet the anticipated demand will before placing them in storage. That will pro- result in lost sales revenue. vide a baseline for the time they will have Watchmakers and jewelers who sell batteries should been in storage. care for their battery stocks as a produce manager does c. Store all unused batteries in a controlled for bananas by taking the following steps. First, care- environment by not exposing them to high fully check all existing battery stock by looking for any temperatures or excessive humidity, both of that are already past the recommended sell-by date. Re- which will prematurely age the batteries. move them and recycle them. Silver oxide batteries are d. Track battery purchases and sales. An ac- generally salable for two to three years after the date curate record of purchases and sales is needed of manufacture. Larger ones deteriorate more slowly to make certain the shop never runs out of a than smaller sizes. The tiniest silver oxide cells have given battery and seldom ever needs to dis- the shortest shelf life of all. Lithium cells have a far lon- pose of overage batteries.

Horological Times 35 Column: From the Workshop

e. A three-month supply of each battery in by wiping with a clean tissue and reused again. The the sales cabinet backed by a three-month barrel is not so easily dry-cleaned as the mainspring supply in the storage cabinet will assure that and when cleaned, even in a good ultrasonic watch batteries are sold within six months of their cleaner, it still may require further cleaning. In addi- purchase. As an example, a shop sells 100 tion, the stuff in a dirty barrel will contaminate the #377 batteries in a three-month period from cleaning and rinsing solutions. An alternate method the sales cabinet, which is refilled by transfer- involves pre-cleaning the barrel first in used clean- ring #377’s from the storage cabinet to the ing and rinsing solutions. Rather than disposing of sales cabinet. Make a notation in the order old, used watch cleaning and rinsing solutions, save book or computer that 100 more #377’s need some just for these special cleaning tasks. Put the to be ordered. When they arrive, they go di- dirty barrel in a small plastic or glass bowl and im- rectly to storage and the stock rotation cycle merse it in used watch cleaner. Float the bowl in the is complete. On the other hand, a slow-mov- ultrasonic tank that is used for cleaning cases and ing battery such as a #344 may take three bracelets, Figure 2. The ultrasonic tank is turned on months to sell five pieces. Keep a three-to- and, within a minute or two, the barrel is thoroughly six-month supply in inventory so you never cleaned. The ultrasonic action in the cleaning tank is run out of any battery, nor will they go be- powerful enough to loosen all the old contaminants yond their sell-by date. This way the stock in the barrel using only a few ounces of old cleaning level closely matches anticipated demand fluid. After a quick rinse in old watch-rinsing fluid, based upon previous usage. Grocers know the barrel is now ready to be cleaned along with the there is no profit keeping overripe bananas. rest of the movement, Figure 3. Watchmakers and jewelers know an outdated Fig. 2 battery is unsalable. Old bananas and old bat- teries become losses.

Dirty Barrels Mainspring barrels can be the filthiest part in a watch movement. They often appear as the one in Figure 1, loaded with some sort of black lubricant that liter- ally oozes out of the mainspring and barrel. If it is in good condition, the mainspring can be cleaned

Fig. 1 Fig. 3

36 March 2018 Diamonds in a Bezel Fig. 5 “Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend” was a song from the Broadway play Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. While they may be a friend to some women, they certainly are not a friend to the watchmaker when repairing a vintage watch that has a bezel fitted with diamonds or other stones. Very often those stones were loose- ly set into openings made in the bezel and secured by folding or burnishing the metal around the top of the opening to hold the stones in place. Because each stone is loosely fit in the bezel, Figure 4, these watches are prone to admit large amounts of dust around each stone, which then accumulates in the movement and on the dial, Figure 5. Fig. 4 Baselworld 2018 As you read this, I will be again at Baselworld as I have been for the past 25 years, but this year will be different than any other year I have attended. First, Terry Kurdzionak will be accompanying me as we celebrate our 50th wedding anniversary as part of the Swiss visit. Baselworld 2018 will be significantly smaller in size with 50% fewer vendors and will be two days shorter than it has been in recent years. Consequently, I will be shortening my time at Basel- It will not take long for these watches to load up world to reflect these changes and spending some with dust after servicing the movement and clean- extra days touring Switzerland with Terry. ing the case and dial, unless something is done to This year Baselworld unilaterally cancelled its prevent the dust from entering the case. I have had Technical Zone where one could meet with many good results servicing these watches by sealing the companies that supply watchmakers and watch man- bottom of each stone with a small application of clear ufacturers. I always found this to be the most inter- crystal cement (GS or SUC brands work well). This esting part of Baselworld and now it is gone. For the procedure will significantly slow down the infiltra- past several years, many of these suppliers have been tion of dust. Instead of being returned full of dust exhibiting at the EPHJ show each June in Geneva, within a few months, the watch will provide many and this year I will be heading there in June. Tough years of service before needing to be cleaned again. duty, but someone has to do it. While these diamonds may never be your friend, you Jack Kurdzionak, watchmaker and watch material specialist, can prevent them from being your enemy. owned a Boston-area watch sales and service shop for 40 years. He has a BS (Northeastern University, 1967) and has studied at ETA, WOSTEP, BHI, SGUS, and AWCI, and works for Eckcells Watch Materials.

Horological Times 37 For sale!

Used Witschi Watch Expert I ONLY $995! In Excellent working condition. Includes microphone, power supply, and dust cover. Contact AWCI at 513-367-9800

Show off Your Passion for Horology-and AWCI! Wear These with Pride! SHOP NOW www.awci.com/online-store while supplies last! Horology T-Shirt Become a member and save! Cotton/Polyester Blend AWCI Shoulder Bag Available in S, M, L, XL Regular $30 $25.00 – members get free shipping awci.com Members $27 The AWCI shoulder bag is the perfect companion to keep everything organized, secured, and readily accessible when away from the shop. Constructed with 600 denier polyester fabric for long-term durability, there is a roomy main compartment with pockets Patches and storage slots for electronic devices, Sew on your apron or lab coat pens/pencils, small tools, business cards, and $5.00 – Members Only supplies. Handy outside storage pockets can carry larger items. A key clip, durable snap buckles, and a removable shoulder strap add additional versatility. The AWCI logo is embroidered directly onto the Rocker $2.00 – Certified Members Only main flap, so it will remain visible for many, many years without peeling or chipping away. Membership Pin Check out our website $12.95 for these and other great items! If you need assistance, contact AWCI at 513-367-9800.

38 March 2018 AWCI News: Affiliate Chapter Highlights Affiliate Chapter Highlights WATCHMAKERS ASSOCIATION OF PENNSYLVANIA (WAOP) By Jim Zimmerman, CMEW, CMC, CMW21

PRESIDENT: GEORGE JONES VICE PRESIDENT: JIM ZIMMERMAN SECRETARY: GEORGE JONES TREASURER: GEORGE JONES

he Watchmakers Association of Pennsylvania Pennsylvania members, 180 were WAOP members. The T(WAOP) was organized in June of 1934, incorpo- early 1980s were a huge turning point for the WAOP. The rated January 4, 1951, and adopted February 9, 1951. The second annual state convention was held in Lancaster, earliest records state that from 1934 until 1951, the as- Pennsylvania. The Allegheny Guild members came from sociation went under one name, Allegheny the west, and the Delaware Valley Guild

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♦ Guild, which covered the south- College area of the state. In the years western part of Pennsylvania and the to follow, two more guilds were formed, Pittsburgh area, and the Delaware Valley Guild, which the Laurel Highland Guild, which covered the Johnstown covered eastern Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, area, and the Susquehanna Guild, which covered the and the Philadelphia area. Williamsport and Sunbury areas. During the mid-1980s In 1980, there were 6,775 American Watchmakers- through the 1990s, the WAOP had a total of six guilds: Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) members: 304 of those Allegheny, Delaware Valley, Central, Keystone, Laurel AWCI members were from Pennsylvania and, of those Highland, and Susquehanna.

Horological Times 39 AWCI News: Affiliate Chapter Highlights

• Allegheny Guild–first guild, 1934 until 1993, of the year on the third Thursday of the month in a broke away from WAOP and formed their local restaurant. Meetings consist of a social dinner own organization, Western Watchmakers along with a technical program, and one annual party Clockmakers Association (not associated with AWCI, still current). for family and friends. It takes a special person with many hours of vol- • Delaware Valley Guild–1978 until 1995, dis- banded and most members joined the New unteer and dedication to keep an organization going. Jersey Watchmakers Association George Jones, president of the WAOP, has done more for the association than anyone. The members and • Central Guild–1980 still current horologists of the WAOP would like to thank George • Keystone Guild–1981 still current Jones for his dedication and perseverance. Visit Watchmakers Association of Pennsylvania • Laurel Highland Guild–1982 until disbanded in 1990s on Facebook for information on upcoming meetings.

• Susquehanna–1984 until disbanded in 1997

The WAOP currently consists of two active guilds: Central and Keystone. Each guild meets eight months

Edgar Warble examines an armillary made by John Shultz of Lititz, Charlie Emsly photographs a wristwatch. Pennsylvania.

40 March 2018 Martin Pulli speaking at our local guild.

Clock made by students of Thaddeus Stevens College of Technology.

Josh Joyce (left) and Emily Zimmerman (right) examine a great wheel. George Jones (left) and Jim Zimmerman (right).

Jim Zimmerman is a watchmaker and a clockmaker and owner of Zimmerman’s Jeweler’s in York, Pennsylvania.

Horological Times 41 Affiliate Chapter NEWS Minnesota Clockmakers Guild (MCG) In February, Mark Purdy led MCG members on a vis- it to Blackstone Manor Clock Repair for a tour, as well as a visit to a second storefront with gently used clocks for sale. For the January meeting George Fisher presented on soldering methods used in constructing model trains. Richard Zielike donated books for the door prizes. Ron Manger won The Mini-Lathe by Da- vid Fenner. Jeff Johnson won The Clock & Watchmak- er's Handbook, Dictionary, and Guide. For Show and Tell, A hand gas torch Fisher used. It has a trigger air pump to blow the flame in a small cone toward the material. Ken Danner shared a Roper Whitney hand punch and asked what it is used for. The answer he received was: punching holes in mainsprings. Chuck Sandager shared a six-LED-light accessory for an Optivisor.

Future MCG Meetings/Topics: March 1, 2018—Home Visits: What Do You Do on a House Call? with Richard Zielike May 5, 2018—Joint MCG/MWCA Symposium

MCG OFFICERS President: Ivy Booth · 612-719-0161 · [email protected] Treasurer: Garth Antila · 715-386-3575 · [email protected] Secretary: Dean Ziegenbein · 952-454-1247 · [email protected] Ken Danner shared a Roper Whitney hand punch.

George Fisher explained soldering methods, materials, Chuck Sandager shared this six-LED-light accessory for and techniques he used to build model trains. the Optivisor. It illuminates work for better viewing.

42 March 2018 Revolution Magazine. He has also worked on freelance special projects over the years and in a market- ing/PR consulting capacity for clients both within and outside the watch industry. He is the author of Cartier: Time Art, a catalog for the exhibition of the same name, which chronicles the history of watch- A multi-piece brass assembly was cut, rolled, and then soldered to form the boiler for a scale model locomotive. making and clockmaking at Cartier.

Horological Society of New York HSNY's 2018 Gala and Charity (HSNY) Auction The following information was obtained from The Horologist's Loupe, submitted by Christa Chance, Recording Secretary, HSNY, Copyright©2018. Published by the Horological Society of New York, Inc.; all rights reserved. The Horological Society of New York will celebrate The Essentials of Precision its 152nd year at the 2018 Gala and Charity Auc- Timekeeping tion on Wednesday, April 18, 2018. The annual gala Jack Forster, Editor-in-Chief, HODINKEE and charity auction is an opportunity to look back In the February HSNY lecture, Jack Forster discussed at HSNY’s accomplishments, recognize talented how and why precision timekeeping evolved. He cov- watchmaking students, and bid on incredible watch- ered the earliest water clocks, through the evolution es and ephemera. of pendulum clocks, the first watches, marine chro- HSNY OFFICERS nometers, and on to today’s precision wristwatches. President: Nicholas Manousos He explored how the modern watch has been shaped Vice President: Luke Cox-Bien by nearly a thousand years of technological and sci- Recording Secretary and Librarian: Christa Chance Treasure: Charles S. Salomon entific exploration, including certain fundamentals in mechanics and physics. George McNeil’s Potomac Guild Jack Forster is editor-in-chief of HODINKEE. For the February program, Jeff Meizlic presented on He first became interested in watches as a student restoring marble/slate clock cases. In January, David in graduate school and spent many years collect- Staib demonstrated bluing screws. Bluing tempera- ing and repairing vintage pocket watches as a hob- ture charts were sent out to members. by. His first exposure to online watch discussion was on Usenet newsgroups in the mid-1990s. He George McNeil’s Potomac Guild Officers has also been a moderator on the collector’s forum, PuristSPro.com. From 2006 to 2015 he was a part President: David Staib Vice President: John Enloe (Acting) of Revolution Press Ltd, first as group technical edi- Secretary: Barry Boling tor, and then as editor-in-chief for the US edition of Treasurer: Michael Oliva

Horological Times 43 AWCI News: Affiliate Chapter News

Capital Area Watchmaker and away as New York. Contact Roger Davis to put things Clockmaker Guild (CAWCG) for sale on the site. Donations to CAWCG are always Central Texas Affiliate Chapter - American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), www.cawcg.org welcome and there is no charge to list items. Remem- For the January CAWCG meeting, Pat Holloway ber CAWCG has a large library of books and training gave a historical lecture on Sears, Roebuck & Bunns. tapes available. Please contact Luther Lucko.

Program Speakers for 2018 CAWCG Board Members March–Rob Putney President: Glen Morehead · [email protected] Vice President: Terry Waldron · [email protected] April–Michael Webb Treasurer: Hugh Lindsay · [email protected] May–Mary Ellen Bell Secretary: Jay Holloway · [email protected] June–Glen Morehead July–Terry Waldron Rob Putney with August–Jay Holloway Mr. Mulholland’s daughter. September–Gene Galbraith October–Don Bugh November–Terry Palmer December–Christmas Party

Mulholland Award/Christmas Party

The Christmas Party was another fun outing for CAWCG members. Don Bugh was emcee for the Christmas party. Mary Ellen Bell presented members with her handmade snowflake ornaments. Thanks to Glen Morehead for working with Mimi’s to host the party. Lastly, a big hand for Rob Putney who was given the Mulholland Award. He has worked hard for many years to help CAWCG as vice president and president.

Miscellaneous

Reach out to missing members if you have not seen them lately and let them know we miss them. We are only as strong as our members who hold each oth- er up. Keep everyone connected. Our website has an area for listing items for sale. Members have said that they have sold their horological items to people as far

44 March 2018 The Horological Association of Virginia 2018 Annual Convention Staunton, VA

The Horological Association of Virginia is pleased to announce its plans for the 2018 Annual Convention.

Dates: April 20-22, 2018 Location: Stonewall Jackson Hotel and Conference Center 24 South Market Street Staunton, VA 24401 540-885-4848

Education & Guest Speakers: Convention Programs (see below)

Convention Chairman: John Polk [email protected]

[email protected] Convention Details: Complete convention details including itinerary and registration forms are available on our website www.havhome.org. Or contact the Convention Chairman, John Polk at [email protected], who can assist you with your registration requests or questions. 2018 Convention Programs Saturday, April 21 Spouse’s Program Robert Flood, CW21 Saturday, April 21 ETA 7750 Repair Issues - This technical program will examine the typical and unique things to be found during the service of a caliber 7750. It will include an in-depth discussion of the causes and the solutions for these issues to have a successful repair. Robert Ockenden, CMC Platform Escapements —A Bench Course - A hands-on presentation covering all the basics of servicing the platform escapement. Topics will include nomen- clature, service diagnosis, servicing, and adjustments as well as discussion on pallet one adjustment, escapement drops, locks and banking, poising and truing the balance wheel, hairspring manipulations, timing, and much more. Sunday, April 22 Dean Sarnelle Laser Welding in Horology Tour and Luncheon - Demonstration of the use and applications of laser welding machines in the Taylor and Boody Organ Builders horological craft. 8 Hewitt Road • Staunton, VA 24401 http://gmc.sonoma.edu/about_organ

Horological Times 45 AWCI Welcomes New Members

Brent Atkinson AL Kristopher Guyot ME Jeffrey Neal IN Kevin Barger OH Brian Harris FL Josh Noel CO Franklin Bernal IL Matthew Hicks CO Roman Oleynik CA Kenneth Buck VA Tadeh Isagholian CA Ruben Palazzo DE Aaron Chamberlain MI Leonard Jimenez NC Gregory Petronzi NJ Francesco Cilibrasi Italy Fillip Johnson AZ Faraidoon Pundole TX Marc Clodfelter NJ Jean Kaucz NC Roland Spriessler Switzerland Shaun Coates CO Richard Lynch TN Robert Tasse VA

Contributors to the ELM Trust

The ELM Trust of AWCI is a recognized 501(c)(3) charitable organization with a three-pronged mission as indicated by the acronym of its name ELM. The E represents our educational mission to assist schools and students of horology; the L represents our obligation to establish and maintain a horo- logical library; and the M stands for our purpose to establish and maintain a museum containing items of horological interest. The ELM Trust welcomes and appreciates your tax-deductible donation to help it fulfill its mission. Recent donors include the following:

Avo Antabelian Florida Watch & Clock Thomas M. Kovatch Kenneth B. Bosse Association Inc. Tung Lu Ronald Botterbusch Herbert T. Greenfield Charles R. Peck Wilbert G. Campos Adrian Hendry Ron Rider Brian Doughty Benjamin Ho Bill Rostiser Eckcells Supply Dale E. Huntington Herbert Sollenberger Matthew F. Kluesener Arnold Van Tiem

In Memoriam

Robert W. Gaines MI Melvin E. Robbins IN Claude E. Guyot ME Richard R. Schnabel NC Jack Kemmerer PA Julian J. Smith NC Ernest Parigian FL Hans Weber NJ Do you enjoy spending time with other watchmakers and clockmakers? Join Your Local Affiliate Chapter for more information log on to awci.com/about-us/affiliate-chapters Florida Indiana Minnesota New York Ohio Texas LWT Alumni Florida Watch & Clock- Indianapolis Minnesota Clockmakers Horological Society of Watchmakers-Clock- Capital Area Watch & makers Association, Inc. Horological Association Guild New York makers Association of Clockmakers Guild Association Fabio Rodrigues, CW21 Monique Baez, President Ivy Booth, President Nicholas Manousos, President Ohio Glen Morehead, President Aaron Recksiek, CW21, President President 612-719-0161 New York, NY Michael Gainey, CC21 Jay Holloway, Secretary 2064 Alysheba Drive [email protected] 801-580-7673 (C) 786-344-2840 Indianapolis, IN 46234 [email protected] President Pflugerville, TX [email protected] www.hs-ny.org 512-294-7371 317-374-3915 Dean Ziegenbein, Secretary Columbus, OH 4651 152nd Court [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Matt Hritz, CW21 Apple Valley, MN 55124-6801 New York State Watch- 614-833-0378 (B) www.cawcg.org www.lwtalumni.org 952-454-1247 makers Association Vice President [email protected] Mark A. Baker, CMW, CC21 Sarasota, FL Dale LaDue, CMW21 Virginia International Rep Massachusetts West Henrietta, NY Treasurer Horological Association 941-993-0514 Massachusetts Watch- 15852 ½ St. Rt. 62 [email protected] Missouri 585-424-1493 of Virginia makers-Clockmakers Metro St. Louis Watch- P.O. Box 292 John Polk, President Association, Inc. makers-Clockmakers North Carolina Damascus, OH 44619 116-C Ballast Rock Rd. Richard LeBeau, CMW21 Christopher Carey Association North Carolina Watch- 330-537-3939 (W) Powells Point, NC 27966 Treasurer Newton, MA Judit Katona, Secretary makers Association [email protected] 804-335-5006 Saint Petersburg, FL 617-244-3779 [email protected] 727-347-3758 [email protected] [email protected] Mack R. Shuping, CW21 [email protected] Treasurer Pennsylvania http://havhome.org The Chronometer Club Minnesota New Jersey Winston Salem, NC Watchmakers Associa- Michael Griner, CW21, President Watchmakers Associa- 336-287-8402 tion of Pennsylvania Wisconsin Chris Wiles, CW21 Midwest Watchmakers- Wisconsin Horological Panama City, FL Clockmakers Association tion of New Jersey 336-768-1857 (fax) George H. Jones Education Chairmen State College, PA Society 850-866-4303 239-671-3203 Fred Fischer, President Richard Cuny, President [email protected] Jeff Bergey, CMW, President [email protected] Hugo, MN Tom’s River, NJ 814-238-1668 (B & H) Oregon, WI [email protected] 651-429-3340 732-818-9460 [email protected] 608-835-3698 (W) [email protected] [email protected] www.wanj.us 608-843-7153 (C) www.thechronometerclub.org www.mwca.us [email protected]

Editor's Forum continued from page 4. tion Committee was an acknowl- continue to provide these updates edgement that, unfortunately, the from the committee to keep Board of Directors. The minutes committee had not accomplished the membership aware of our from that meeting can be found much in the last few years. I was progress. under the governing documents appointed to the committee in section of the AWCI website, or Aaron Recksiek, CW21 2013, and there have not been too go to this link: Chair, Education & Standards many meaningful projects during Committee https://www.awci.com/minutes that time. I have made a resolu- The changes mainly addressed tion to myself and the AWCI Lift Angle in the structure of the Education & membership that I would get the Calculating Amplitude Standards Committee, and rules committee back on track as one of One of our readers wrote in to share governing the eligibility require- the most meaningful and produc- some thoughts about an article from ments of committee members. I tive committees of the institute. July 2017 entitled “Amplitude Calcu- encourage you to attend future There is a lot of work that lations on Timing Machines,” by board meetings or download needs to go into these projects. Christopher Barthold. He had some the meeting minutes once they The details shared in the report concerns about Christopher Barthold’s become available on the website are starting points and, unfor- definitions and calculations of lift each month. tunately, I do not have answers angle. The statement about the for- to your questions as the decisions Lift angle can be a difficult topic ward momentum of the Educa- have not been finalized. We will to understand. It requires thorough

Horological Times 47 AWCI News: Continued— Editor's Forum/Vice President's Message/Executive Director's Message understanding of the escapement. Even Witschi recognizes the lack of Executive Director’s Message To complicate matters, The Theory of precision in using sound to measure continued from page 5. Horolog y provides no fewer than four amplitude. This is one of the reasons Swartchild, etc., and uploading them different definitions for lift angle. Witschi has developed their Wisio- to our website. If you have an old tool There are two definitions for lift Scope S, which measures rate, ampli- and you are trying to figure out what as defined by the travel of the roller tude, beat, and lift angle of a mechan- it is used for, consulting these catalogs and two definitions for lift as defined ical watch with the assistance of an might help you figure it out. Looking by the movement of the pallet fork. optical laser mounted on a traditional to identify a vintage watch? Trying to Generally, when watchmakers discuss microphone. find part numbers for vintage pocket lift angle they are referring to lift angle watches? These catalogs are great re- Note: This response was compiled as it relates to movement of the roller. with input from the author Christopher sources for that too. These two definitions are: Barthold, the Horological Times Com- We continue to try to expand our Total lift angle: angle during mittee, and Executive Director Jordan technical documents. While Roy was not which the impulse pin is in con- Ficklin. involved in the bulk scanning of 15,000 tact with the lever fork during its documents that we completed last year, passage between one banking pin he has helped us add more than 100 new and the next. tech guides we recently acquired for our Vice President’s Message continued database. If any of you have technical Virtual lift angle: the sum of the from page 5. documents you would like to share with impulse of the balance and the figured this out years ago: bypass the the horological community, we invite angles of total unlocking minus typical dealer network (or watchmaker) you to send them to us so we can include the run to the banking. and engage directly with the con- them in our growing database. The timing machine makes mea- sumer. Why are we still looking to Perhaps most importantly, Roy surements using sounds from the es- the brands for direction on how we brings an outsider perspective to our capement. Unfortunately, none of those reach the end consumer? We need to office. He has participated in discus- sounds correspond exactly with the build relationships directly with col- sions about how we can expand and true amount of time in which the roller lectors and make them aware of our better market our services. His per- is engaged with the fork, so the timing profession and our organization. Find spective is valuable, and he has devel- machine makes assumptions and cor- your local RedBar group chapter, oped an excitement for horology. rections to try to accurately represent horological association, or NAWCC I want to give a big thank you the amplitude of the balance. group. Those are the best places to to Roy and to all of our volunteers. The focus of Mr. Barthold’s article have those conversations. AWCI is only as strong as its volun- was to study and investigate how I would like to close this message teers, which, in this case, means we are timing machines use sound to measure by thanking the AWCI staff for all their pretty strong! amplitude. It was reviewed by our hard work. It is easy to forget some- committee of professionals who found times that their livelihoods depend on it to be educational and informative. the success and growth of the organiza- We stand by his article and its accuracy, tion. I am so pleased by the incredible recognizing that there are multiple group of professionals we have working confusing definitions of lift angle and behind the scenes to help realize the limitations in measuring capabilities. mission of AWCI.

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Horological Times 49 Classified Ads wanted to buy tradespeople 2018 CLASSIFIED POLICY AWCI HT classified advertising fees/rates and minimum Wanted: Chronograph Movements and Parts DENNIS KAYE Advanced Clock Repair Services schedule remain the same as last year. We request that Paying for Valjoux 69, 72, 88 up to $800.00, Venus 178 you put all classified advertising on a credit card. We $300, Longines 13 ZN, 30 CH $500.00, 108 Corgy Drive • Cary, NC 27513 accept MasterCard, Visa, American Express and Discover. Movado 90, 95 $300.00. Also buying high-grade Call 540-SERVICE (737-8423) movements and parts. Now Restoring Painted & Silvered Dials! If you require a physical invoice and 30-day terms, your Dean Sarnelle Porcelain Dial Restoration rates will be higher due to the additional costs incurred in 25 W. Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401 Watch • Pocket Watch • Clock labor, supplies and carrying charges. 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MAINSPRINGS Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 Advertising studies show it takes over 3 viewings for readers Clock and music box - All sizes. to recognize specifics in your ad. Custom made. Brass gear blanks. Deadline: 30 days before first of month for WANTED WATCH BOXES Timewise (formerly TANI Engineering) Ph: 330-947-0047, E-mail: [email protected] month you plan to run. Buy - Sell - Trade Note: If you place a recruitment ad on the www.awci.com We want most major brands. Career Center as a combo online/HT ad, there’s no need Also buying high-end jewelry brand boxes. to resend the ad to us. The website system is automatic. Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 services To Place Your Ad: Email: [email protected] Fax: 513-367-1414 or SERVICE/SALES OF TIMING AND Call: 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924)/513-367-9800 WE BUY WATCHES CLEANING MACHINES Rolex, Patek, Cartier, LeCoultre, Vacheron, Vibrograf, L&R, and Watchmaster Breitling, Audemars, Tudor and others. Over 20 years experience Modern or Vintage. Quick repairs & reasonable prices Doug Giard, 586-774-3684 www.timemachinerepair.com Dale Sutton 609-374-5880 or Horological Times Advertising Policy & Editorial Policy [email protected] Advertising Policy for the Horological Times The publisher reserves the right to approve all advertising copy and reject any advertisements not in keeping with the publisher’s standards. The publisher may, at the publisher’s sole dis- tradespeople ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE cretion and for any reason and without notice, decline to publish or republish any ad, in which case any fees submitted or paid for such ads shall be returned or rebated to the advertiser. The We are Factory Authorized Service for: publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. The advertiser and/or agency agree to assume lia- • Greiner VIBROGRAF bility for all content of advertisements printed. The advertiser will also accept responsibility for FENDLEY & COX WHEEL AND PINION SPECIALIST any claims or suits arising therefrom brought against the publisher. Printed articles may also be • TICK-O-PRINT & L&R used by the publisher without permission expressly sought, or payment made, on www.awci. 1530 Etain Rd., Irving, TX 75060 We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. com, the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Facebook page, or via other media. RICHARD COX, 972-986-7698/CMC, FNAWCC, CMBHI Editorial material and letters of opinion are invited, but reflect the opinions of the authors 190 Deepstone Drive San Rafael, CA 94903 only and do not represent the views of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute www.fendley-cox.com Used Equipment Bought & Sold (AWCI), its directors, officers or employees. AWCI reserves the right to edit all submitted mate- For Information rials and is under no obligation to accept any submitted materials for publication. The approval procedures are available from AWCI and at www.awci.com. The appearance, reference, or ad- 415-479-8960 vertisement of any product or service in this publication shall not be deemed an endorsement Watch Parts Fabrication: www.electronicinstrumentservice.com of such products, methods or services by AWCI, its directors, officers, or employees. I make all types of movement parts: Vintage to Publisher’s Standards AWCI makes a concerted effort not to publish any advertisement which promotes or depicts modern. MATT HENNING CW, 413-549-1950 DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, practices not in harmony with our professional Standards & Practices for Watchmakers & www.henningwatches.com FINEST QUALITY, Clockmakers. The advertisement of generic parts, tools, and materials is allowed when such advertisement does not possess any trademarked image, brand, or name. Advertisers can refer quantity works welcome. to the items by name, function, quality, size, and description. Genuine parts can be advertised Specialize on changing dial feet as such in accordance with the advertiser’s relationship and agreement with the manufacturer. We encourage advertisers to reach out to our members and market goods and positions to fit the quartz movement. services which will help them to professionally service their clients and repre- Send your works to: KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE sent themselves in a way which will “reflect positively on him or her, on the AWCI, and the entire watch and clock repair industry, including all of its participants.” 112 Central Avenue North, Kent, WA 98032 – AWCI Code of Ethics 253-852-5125

50 March 2018 awci directory ADVERTISERS’ INDEX BOARD OF DIRECTORS Fellows * Robert F. Bishop AWCI Courses Officers * James H. Broughton Fred S. Burckhardt 513-367-9800 6 Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: President Alice B. Carpenter British Horological Institute [email protected] David A. Christianson bhi.co.uk 33 Aaron Recksiek, CW21: Vice President * George Daniels [email protected] Wes Door Cas-Ker Co. Jack Kurdzionak, CW21: Treasurer and IAB Jerry Faier 1-800-487-0408 29 Director * Henry B. Fried Clocks Magazine [email protected] * Josephine F. Hagans clocksmagazine.com 20 Peter Pronko, PhD: Secretary * Orville R. Hagans [email protected] * Ewell D. Hartman Jules Borel & Co. * Harold J. Herman 1-800-776-6858 ...inside front cover * J.M. Huckabee * Gerald G. Jaeger NAWCC Immediate Past President Jack Kurdzionak nawcc.org 29 Fred T. White, CMW21 * Benjamin Matz [email protected] Renata * Robert A. Nelson 800-527-0719 ...back cover * Hamilton E. Pease Directors * Archie B. Perkins Witschi Electronic Ltd. Justin Harrell, CW21 Robert D. Porter witschi.com 34 [email protected] Antoine Simonin Craig Stone, CW21 * William O. Smith, Jr. * Milton C. Stevens [email protected] Dennis Warner Dennis Warner, CW21: Affiliate Chapter Director * Marvin E. Whitney [email protected] Peter Whittle *Deceased [email protected] American Watchmakers- Parliamentarian Clockmakers Institute Paul Wadsworth 701 Enterprise Dr. [email protected] Harrison, OH 45030 Ph: 866-FOR-AWCI 513-367-9800 Fax: 513-367-1414 [email protected] • www.awci.com

WE THANK THE IAB AWCI would like to thank our Industry Advisory Board members for their ongoing support of the institute and the industry.

Supply Co., Inc.

Horological Times 51 0318 HT NextGen Steamers_OL.indd 1 2/7/18 1:25 PM