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The Ancient Glaciers of the Sierra. John Muir

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The Ancient Glaciers of the Sierra. John Muir University of the Pacific Scholarly Commons John Muir: A Reading Bibliography by Kimes John Muir Papers 12-1-1880 The Ancient Glaciers of the Sierra. John Muir Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarlycommons.pacific.edu/jmb Recommended Citation Muir, John, "The Ancient Glaciers of the Sierra." (1880). John Muir: A Reading Bibliography by Kimes. 192. https://scholarlycommons.pacific.edu/jmb/192 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the John Muir Papers at Scholarly Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in John Muir: A Reading Bibliography by Kimes by an authorized administrator of Scholarly Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. '\ .. ~ ... \~~. ~' · 55° THE CALIFORNIAN. which she had arisen perfectly forgetful of me, my father's voice that I hear chiming always in of her marriage, of all but the haunting con­ my ears, eager and imperious? And in your scioiisness of a roo ted sorrow. Her father had face there is a look I have only observed late­ j died abroad, and her mother and sister returned ly, when you come to sit by me, that rem inds to find that the estate had melted away in the me of some one I have seen before. Who is .k . settlement, and now they were taking scholars. it? Who can it be?" Neil seemed to understand their position, but I fixed her eyes with mine. I will.ed her to any intellectual employment distressed her si nce know me, now at this supreine moment, with her iilness ; so, with the influence of her father's the passion of prayer. friends, she had taken up her present occupa­ "Look at me," I whispered, bending over tion. She clung to our little house as her home, her. and they rented two of the sunniest rooms for A strong shudder ran through her frame; she her. She was fading rapidly; was unfit for any recoiled, putting up her hand as if to ward off work, especi~lly for the con finement of sewing, a blow, and then bent her eyes upon my face but she would not relinquish the pleasure of with a terrible frown. adding something to the family treasury. I de­ "You have been here a long time ! " she gasp­ termine.d that she should have rest; and, brav­ ed, seizing her head hard in her hands. "And ing the black looks and hatred of her family, I could not-wait,. wait one moment- it is all bent my pride to persuade them of my affec· coming back to me. Ah, Berkeley! my hus­ tion and repentance, and to beg that my wife band." should be given back into my keeping. I took She strained me to her in her emaciated what employment I could get-not elevated nor arms. I laid her clown dead. elevating-and put my poor girl into more se­ She lies there among the reel flowers that she cluded and commodious rooms; and, with a )oved so. "The white wreaths make me cold," physician's aid, strove to bring her back to .life she once said. "vVhen I am dead at last, bury and memory. She seemed to know that she me with reel flowers, half- faded, fiery blossoms, could not live long, but deprecated whatever full of bitter summer." I was done for her, imagining all to be the work The fine lips press restfully upon each other, of her mother and sister, and they never· tried the shadowy lids, so slow ~o close in sleep, are to make her comprehend my return; but I wait­ quite drooped. And the great, true heart is ed in patienGe, with an aching heart. At night, still, and the flame of the abounding life that I when she slept, I used to sit by her bedside, had so prodigally wasted, burned out as con­ watching her by the pale lamplight. She was sumed with desire of Death's strange eyes. worn and wasted, and the heavy shadow of grief And I rave impotently, 0 my well beloved! lay on her purple eyelids. One night as I lin­ while your untamed, long-imprisoned soul re­ gered near her, and it was almost dawn, she joices to spurn its cage and be at liberty. You awoke, and our eyes met. have been ~tretched out upon the rack of this "You know people say shells echo with the tough world, but the torture is over. The cry lost sea," she said, quietly, as if we had been of my heart is as old as the sin of the world: talking. "My mind echoes with such a sound; "My punishment is greater than I can bear." it is the voice of some one I have lost. Is it PHILIP SHIRLEY; THE ANCIENT GLACIERS OF THE SIERRA. All California has been heavily glaciated, the beneath whose heavy folds all the present land­ broad plains and valleys so· warm and fertile scapes have been molded; while on both flanks now, and the coast ranges and foothills, covered of the Sierra we find the fresher and more ap­ with forests and chaparral, as well as the bald, preciable traces of the individual glaciers, or rocky summits of the Sierra Nevada, swelling ice- rivers, into which that portion of the ice­ high in the cold sky. sheet which covered the range was divided to­ Go where you may, throughout the length ward the close of the glacial period. and breadth of the State, unmistakable evidence No other mountain chain on the globe seems is everywhere presented of the former existence to be so rich in emphatic, well preserved gla­ of an ice-sheet, thousands of feet in thickness, cial monuments, easily seen by anybody capa- THE ANCIENT GLA CJERS OF THE SIERRA. 55 1 ble of lookin g. Every feature is more or less climate would now ~mel then occur which wo uld glacia l. Not a peak, ridge, dome, or mere bring the receding snouts to a stand -still, or rock, cmion, lake -basin, forest, or stream, but even enable them to advance for a few tens or in some way explains the past existence and h undreds of years, when they would again be­ modes of action of flowing, grinding ice. For, gin to recede. notwithstanding the post · glacial agents-the In the meantime the plants were coming on, ai r, rain, snow, frost, rivers, etc.-have been in­ the hardiest species establi shing themselves on . cessantly at work upon the greater portion of the moraine soils and in fissures of the rocks, the range for tens of thousands of stormy years, pushing upward along every sun-warmed slope, each engraving their own characters more and and following close upon the retreating ice, more deeply over those of the ice, the latter wh ich, like sh't'ecls of summer clouds, a t length a re so enduring and so heavil y emphasized, vanished from the new-born mountains, leaving they still rise in sublime relief, clear and legi­ them in all their main telling features nearly as ble, through every after inscription, whether of we find them now. the mighty avalanche, the torrent, or universal, It wi ll be seen, therefore, that the lowlands erodin g atmosphere. To-day, in higher lat i­ near the level of the sea, and the foothills, and tudes, the great glacial winter still prevaifs in the tops of the highest domes and ridges, were all it s cold, white grandeur. The unborn land­ the first to see the light, and therefore have scapes of North Greenland, and some of those been 'longer exposed to post-glacial weathering. of our own Alaska, are still being fashioned be­ Accordingly, we find that their glaciai charac­ neath a deep, slow-crawling mantle of ice, from ters are more worn and obscured than those of a quarter of a mile to more than a mile in thick­ the higher regions, though all are still legible n ess, presenting noble illustrations of the an­ to the patient student. cient condition of California, when· all its sub­ lime scenery was sealed up, or in process of GLACIER PAVEMENTS. formation. On the Himalaya, and the mount­ ains of Norway and Switzerland, and on most By far the most striking and attractive of the of those of Alaska, the ice -mantle has been glacial phenomena presented to the non: scien­ melted away from the ridges and table -lands, tific observer in the Sierra are the polished where it was thinnest, thus separating it into glacier pavements, because they are so beauti­ distinct glaciers that flow, river-like, through the ful, and their beauty is of so rare a kind, so un­ valleys, illustrating a similar past conditi on in like any portion of the loose, earthy lowlands. the Sierra, when every cm7on and valley was where people make homes and earn their bread. the· channel of an ice-stream, all of which may They are simply fl at or gently undulatin-g areas be easily traced back to where their fountains of solid granite, which present the unchanged lay in the recesses of the alpine summits, and surface upon which the ancient glaciers flowed, where some sixty-five of their topmost residual and are found in the most perfect condition in branches still linger beneath cool shadows. the sub-alpine region, at an elevation of from The transition from one to the other of those eight thousand to nine thousand feet. Some glacial conditions was gradual and shadow- like. are miles in extent, only sli ghtly interrupted by When the great cycle of cold, snowy years­ spots that have given way to the weather, while called the glacial period-was nearly complete, the best preserved portions are bright and stain­ the ice -mantle, wasting from season to season less as the sky, refle cting the ·sunbeams like faster than it was renewed, began to withdraw glass, and shining as if polished afresh every from the lowlands ·along the base of the range, clay, notwithstanding they have been exposed and graduall y became shallower.
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