Virginia: America’s Old World It doesn’t get the media coverage that California does, but Virginia is tipped to be the next big thing in American . Jason Tesauro picks out the varieties and producers that are bringing the area to wider attention, at home and abroad

A dashing Dutchman emerges from his slick the midpoint between Bordeaux and Napa Valley. travel trailer to pour three , including his ‘Very simply,’ said Steven Spurrier during a 2012 visit, own. The 2008 Château Léoville-Barton (£65) will ‘Virginia makes the kinds of wines I like to drink.’ mellow, but in its adolescence, the second growth is standoffish. Flanking it, a voluptuous 2008 Colgin Then… IX Estate Napa Valley Red Wine (£330). Standing Virginia’s wine timeline begins in 1774, when between these classic examples of Bordeaux Italian viticulturist Filippo Mazzei planted clippings austerity and California opulence, an elegant yet from France, Italy and Spain at Thomas Jefferson’s juicy wine from a rising star and rocky hilltop one . The 19th-century blight and hour west of Washington, DC. Rutger de Vink’s RdV Prohibition (1919) wiped out the wine culture until Lost Mountain 2009 (£50) wins the day. Italy’s Zonin family founded Barboursville (1976) Not surprisingly – I later learn – and ushered in the modern renaissance. scored it 18/20. In the 1980s, plantings shifted from French Virginia wines are coming of age at the moment hybrids to vinifera, and the 1990s saw and when American palates are doing the same. Despite bulldozed in favour of , CANADA Wine regions of Virginia Toronto NEW California’s global rise in the 1970s, the US of yore and Bordeaux varieties. Great YORK 1

Photograph:Leonard Phillips /Thomas Jefferson Foundation Monticelloat www.monticello.org.wine. Map:Maggie Nelson Detroit Lakes 2 Shenandoah Valley AVA still treated wine as a cocktail and fast food as a Winegrowers fine-tuned their terroir thanks to a 3 Northern Virginia treat. Enter the era of slow-food consciousness and strong oenological and viticultural research PENNSYLVANIA 4 Chesapeake Bay USA go-local fetishism. After years of high-octane wines programme at Virginia Polytechnic Institute, plus New 5 George Washington Birthplace AVA Washington York 6 Eastern Virginia – and one heck of a hangover – open-minded support from the tourism industry, Department of ‘The English want to like OHIO D.C. 7 Hampton Roads WEST 8 Central Virginia N drinkers who have tired of the density, oak and Agriculture and, most importantly, a kind of VIRGINIA 9 Monticello AVA alcohol often found on the west coast are now open-door collaboration unheard of in Europe. ‘We Richmond 10 Southern Virginia American wine, and Virginia KENTUCKY showing interest in Virginia’s delicacy, stainless try to work collectively, not protect trade secrets,’ VIRGINIA Chesapeake 11 Blue Ridge Highlands Bay 12 Heart of Appalachia steel and food-friendliness. says Matthieu Finot, winemaker at King Family. consistently delivers finesse NORTH Ironically, since New World obsession never By the late 2000s, Virginia had emerged as the CAROLINA MARYLAND caught on in England, UK critics touted Virginia fifth-largest wine-producing state in the US, and elegance’ SOUTH Atlanta CAROLINA even before America’s own mainstream wine press. thriving outside of California’s shadow alongside Bartholomew Broadbent, US-based wine importer Washington Atlantic Ocean GEORGIA Charleston Winchester D.C. Michael Broadbent, for instance, reported on his Washington, New York and Oregon. Chesapeake Bay first ‘seriously good wine’ from Virginia (the 1998 Arlington 3 Potomac Octagon 3rd Edition) in …and now three harvests later, RdV is regularly named among SHENANDOAH MOUNTAINS River 0 100 200 2 8 2001. Thus, 400 years after the Jamestown As a predominately warm region, Virginia’s long the state’s best producers. kilometres 1 9 Experiment, the Brits have a new Virginia outpost. growing season combines with varied exposure, ‘Soil is first and climate comes second,’ says Luca Tappahannock 5 Charlottesville ‘The English want to like American wine, and altitudes and soil types to ripen most varieties. It’s Above: Rutger de Vink, Paschina, winemaker and general manager at Rappahannock KENTUCKY Richmond 4 River Virginia consistently delivers finesse and elegance,’ far from love at first sight, however. Striking out on who spent three years Barboursville, Virginia’s benchmark winery. ‘My 6 APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINSRoanoke 7 says Broadbent’s son, US-based wine importer his own after an apprenticeship under famed investigating RdV’s terroir number-one advice for each grower is to gain a 8 Hampton Bartholomew Broadbent. Virginia winegrower Jim Law, Rutger de Vink devoted better understanding of their soil. Some are still 12 VIRGINIA 11 Norfolk ‘They are a perfect bridge between the west three years and 100 test holes to identifying RdV’s Top: Monticello, where planting what grows in the market, instead of what Danville 10 Virginia Abingdon 7 coast and Europe,’ says Jennifer Knowles, sommelier stone-ridden sweet spot of poor soils where high- Virginia’s wine story began grows well on their site.’ De Vink says: ‘We set out to Beach at the famed The Inn At Little Washington. It is fate: vigour vines perform best. A soil scientist first continue what Luca had done, what Jim had done at TENNESSSEE NORTH CAROLINA the heart of country lies practically at identified it as ‘nothing but a pile of rocks’. Only Linden Vineyards, the pioneers of Virginia.’ ➢

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Michael Shaps, winemaking consultant for more degree in infectious diseases – and the frosts, Viognier, which can show tremendous structure than 30 Virginia wineries, tells clients: ‘I can’t just droughts and rains that came with the job and depth here. ‘We’re trying not to get it too ripe,’ Virginia at a glance wave the magic wand. Put your money into entrusted to her by her British parents. explains Finot. His 2011 is generously aromatic, vineyards, not me.’ Old World regions cannot Veramar winemaker Justin Bogaty says: handled in 70% stainless steel with the remainder The state has 230 wineries across nine Shenandoah Valley Region expand, but the New World can, if only as fast as its ‘We become better from challenging years.’ in neutral oak, French acacia barrels and concrete regions and seven American n Shenandoah Valley AVA (22 vines. Gesturing to a denuded hilltop where he has Veramar’s 2011 Cabernet Franc (12.7% alcohol) eggs. Around the state, vinification varies, but top Viticultural Areas (AVAs – see below). wineries): the state’s largest AVA. cleared 16 hectares, George Hodson, general shows classic tartness and smokiness, examples undergo sur lie ageing in steel or neutral Central and northern regions represent Bounded by Blue Ridge to the east and manager at the family-run Veritas Vineyard & though it’s a tad thinner than in drier years. ‘Not wood to preserve the nose, freshness and nearly 80% of production. Piedmont is to the west. Winery, says: ‘Until we get significant investment in bad for 36 days of sunshine,’ Bogaty quips. He’s a UC minerality. Those with ample acidity even hold up characterised by well-draining red clay; vineyards, we’ll be a novelty.’ Davis graduate making everyday wines – with to cellaring. Barboursville’s rare eight and ten-year- the north features low-vigour silt loam Chesapeake Bay Region Virginia’s tasting rooms are filled with accents, whole-cluster fermentation and gentle tannins – in old show honeyed hues, silky textures over crumbling granite; Shenandoah n Northern Neck George Washington and not just from international visitors. Nearly 40% part because there’s no empty space in his cellar for and plenty of life. Valley is known for its limestone skeins; Birthplace AVA (11 wineries): Peninsula of the state’s winemakers are French, Italian, South ageing: ‘I haven’t got a corner to tuck it into.’ There’s nearly twice as much in the east and along the coast, sandy between Potomac and Rappahannock African or Spanish expats, imported for their passion, planted, though it shares Viognier’s leaner loam is common. rivers on the Chesapeake Bay. patience and minimalist approach. Matthieu Finot, Calling cards tendencies, with most wines either eschewing wood winemaker at King Family since 2007, studied in ‘Virginia is innovative enough to grow Petit or evincing Burgundian restraint. Elsewhere, According to the Virginia Wine Board, Eastern Virginia Region Côte de Nuits, Bandol, Jura and elsewhere. He says: Manseng, but traditional enough not to reinvent Thibaut-Janisson Winery introduced major Chardonnay is the most popular n Virginia’s Eastern Shore AVA (three ‘We’re used to bad weather and can adapt to what’s the wheel,’ explains Pelton. Paschina adds: ‘We have méthode Champenoise fizz to VA, while Sauvignon variety, followed by Cabernet Franc. wineries): Atlantic to the east, happening. A California winemaker will not know to make wines that are excellent, not just very good. Below: King Family’s Blanc, Vermentino and sophisticated stickies made Chesapeake Bay to the west. Sea so well how to handle rain and vintage variability.’ That means we should know our varietal limits.’ Matthieu Finot says from Petit Manseng and Moscato demonstrate Central Virginia Region breezes and sandy soil. Hodson’s sister, Emily Pelton agrees. As winemaker Investment in lesser-known varieties and Europeans can handle bad aptitude and even mastery, but the number of plots n Monticello AVA (38 wineries): The at Veritas, her skills weren’t forged at UC Davis like Bordeaux blends is paying off with world-class weather better than is still tiny. Foggy Ridge Cider is also moving the ‘classico’ of Virginia. Foothills along Blue Ridge Highlands Region many American oenologists, but via a Masters recognition. Virginia’s white calling card is Californian winemakers needle with outstanding estate ciders from eastern slopes of the Blue Ridge n North Fork of Roanoke AVA (two resurrected heirloom varieties that would please Mountains. wineries): Summer heat tempered by VA forefathers and the mother country alike. cool, foggy mornings. The defining red of Virginia is Cabernet Northern Virginia Region n Rocky Knob AVA (two wineries): Recent vintages Franc. Francs here are medium-bodied and earthy n Middleburg Virginia AVA (24 Well-drained loam and gravel. with black fruits and high acidity. Andrew Hodson, wineries): 50 miles west of Very good. Record early bud break led to early ripening. Producers Veritas’ patriarch, highlights delicate tannins Washington, DC, with Potomac River Southern Virginia, Hampton Roads, 2012 who pruned performed very well. reminiscent of Chinon and Burgundy: ‘It should to the north and mountains on the Heart of Appalachia Three regions almost be called Pinot Franc instead of Cabernet other three sides. dotted with a dozen wineries; no AVAs. Uneven. Whites fared well, reds from northern regions ripened Franc.’ Bartholomew Broadbent declares that 2011 better than central producers who endured much September rain. ‘Virginia makes the best Cabernet Franc in the world’. It has become the litmus test for site Below: Barboursville Excellent. One of the driest vintages. Warmer-than-average summer selection and winemaking talent: if someone’s Best of both worlds Vineyards, the state’s led to early harvest. Balance/finesse for those who didn’t pick late. Franc is plonk, don’t blame Virginia. To be taken seriously, the real meter sticks for 2010 benchmark winery, was Around the world, is consigned to a Virginia are its Bordeaux blends. Whether to founded by Italy’s Zonin Outstanding. Wet spring, followed by a dry summer and beautiful minor role in blends to boost acidity, tannin and express terroir or compensate for variation, ‘blends family in 1976 2009 September; hurricanes dodged in October. An even and ideal colour. ‘It eats oak alive,’ says Pelton, and its are a huge tool for us,’ says Finot, and the driver is season destined to become a classic. backbone and inky hues enliven VA clarets, but its : elegant, St-Émilion-like and more consistent dill, violet and raspberry are producing complex than . Very good. Long growing season. Diligent canopy management monovarietal wines too. Spurrier is wowed: ‘I’m And besides being half the price of a St-Émilion 2008 and late harvest led to elegant, ageable wines. surprised Virginia can create that elegance in such premier grand cru classé B, you also get to drink a short time with Petit Verdot.’ them sooner. Boxwood Winery’s 2010 Boxwood is ➢

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the cellar straight from bed to give it a punch-down or pump-over.’ While Boxwood is decidedly hands-on, famous Johnny-come-latelies like Donald Trump and Steve Case (of AOL Time Warner) are planting their flags and their wallets, delivering not sweat equity but capital investment and industry buzz. ’s SP Brut Rosé is already garnering more ink than the boss’s pink ties. Virginia’s emergence is promising for Old World-leaning oenophiles sometimes caught between waiting for classified crus to mature and the vain act of pairing young fruit bombs with a meal. In that context, Virginia’s quality-to-value proposition is more in line with Old World wines. ‘There’s pushback,’ says de Vink of his £50 wine, yet every RdV sells faster than you can say ‘first of original 13 colonies’, so some might even argue for a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot Above: George, Patricia raising the price. pinnacle of earthiness, perfume, leather and and Andrew Hodson, and Then again, didn’t a quibble over the price of tea freshness that could use five years, but doesn’t Emily Pelton, at family-run once land us in hot water? At least we’ve finally require 20. Boxwood also layers those atop Veritas Vineyard & Winery returned… with wine. D early-picked into perhaps Virginia’s best dry rosé. Executive VP Rachel Martin, who studied Award-winning drinks writer Jason Tesauro is oenology in Bordeaux, says: ‘You can’t help but feel author of The Modern Gentleman, and contributor to connected to the wine when you have snuck into The New York Times and Sommelier Journal

Decanter’s top Virginian wines available in the UK

Veritas, Viognier, Monticello but somewhat closed. The palate follows plummy aromas. Velvety feel with coulis 2011 16.75/20pts (89/100pts) through with lemon and apples and a great flavours and a hint of spice. Firm tannins, £19.50 Bedales, Prohibition Wines acidity. Good intensity. Drink 2013 Alc 13% good length. Drink 2013–2017 Alc 13.5% Attractive and somewhat restrained aromas of passion fruit Barboursville Vineyards, Veritas, Cabernet Franc, and lime, with a hint of smokiness Cabernet Franc Reserve, Monticello 2009 16.25 (87) and nuttiness. The palate is fresh, Barboursville 2010 17 (90) £18.50 Bedales, Oxford Wine Co, with a good structure. Crisp finish. £19–£20 Alfred the Grape, Bedales, The Good Wine Shop, Wholefoods Drink 2013 Alcohol 13% Chris Piper, Handford, Hercules, Vibrant on the nose with sweet Oxford Wine, Soho Wine, The Wine and plummy notes and hints of King Family Vineyards, Viognier, Society, Troubadour, Wholefoods floral. Ripe-berry flavours and Monticello 2010 16.5 (88) Beautiful aromas of sweet, cherry and cassis on the palate. £17.50 Oxford Wine Co, Selfridges, Soho Wine black cherries, coffee and cocoa Good intensity and elegant fruit. Supply and a hint of spice. The palate has Drink 2013–2015 Alc 13% Hints of peach and sweet pear. Nice oily a beautiful structure and a great texture with a slight salinity and lots of depth. Amazing length. Drink 2013–2015 Veritas, Paul Shaffer 4th Edition Petit weight, while keeping its cool freshness. A Alc 14.5% Verdot, Monticello 2010 16.25 (87) crisp, intense finish. Drink 2013 Alc 13.5% £22.50 Bedales, Oxford Wine Co, The Good Wine RdV Vineyards, Lost Mountain Shop, Wholefoods , Acte 12 2009 17 (90) Rich fruit, earthy tones and lots of spice. The of Sixteen Chardonnay, £50 New Horizon Wines palate is lovely and chewy with liquorice Williamsburg 2010 15.5 (85) Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and notes and bramble fruit. Firm tannins and a £19.99 Wholefoods Petit Verdot. Fresh and vibrant good length. Drink 2013–2015 Alc 14% The nose is buttery and smoky with notes of truffle and liquorice. with hints of toast and pineapple. Cherry and toffee flavours with a White Hall Vineyards, Petit Verdot, The palate has a streak of acidity good weight and hints of coffee. Monticello 2010 15.75 (85+) with rich fruit and is somewhat Fresh. Drink 2013–2017 Alc 14.5% £19.75 Christopher Piper, Prohibition Wines, yeasty. Drink 2013 Alc 13% Selfridges Boxwood Estate, Boxwood, Middleburg Red- and dark-berry aromas with a hint of Barboursville Vineyards, Viognier 2010 16.75 (89) leafiness. Slightly creamy, but nice acidity to Reserve, Barboursville 2010 15 (83) £26 Hercules Wine, Oxford Wine Co, Prohibition follow through. Drink 2013–2015 Alc 13% £17–£17.50 Christopher Piper, Handford Wines, Wines, Troubadour Wines, Selfridges, Wholefoods The Wine Society, Wholefoods Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit For full details of UK stockists, see p103 Honey hints and fruit blossom on the nose, Verdot. Restrained with blackcurrant and All wines are imported by New Horizon Wines

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