Issue 08

Correspondent

SPRING 2015 y er ll a d G ree d ims S

CASHMERE CRAFTSMANSHIP SimS Reed Gallery SPRING 2015 Fashion N.Peal Bridget Riley Colour Rhythms St James’s Correspondent SPRING 2015

ST James’s Correspondent

SPRING 2015

20 EDITOR’S LETTER COLOUR RHYTHMS 03 To having friends in all 12 Looking for seasonal fashion the bright places. picks from St James’s? We’re on the same wavelength. RESIDENT’S COLUMN 04 Nicolas Payne Baader o H MAILLE! doffs his cap to ’s 18 A mustard boutique? other square mile. C’est chic.

C OMMUNITY FRESH PERSPECTIVES 05 Progress is key 20 A little bit of Floris magic says St James’s from the olfactory floor. 11 Conservation Trust. o N GOOD FORM 06 ARCHIVE 22 Luxury joiners reveal 05 Back to the future with more than a grain of truth London’s leading digital on the future of British Editor’s letter Customers return not only for exceptional art gallery. manufacturing. A break for convention goods but for the experience, the expertise and the familiarity. It’s an appreciation N.PEA L ou R NEW WEBSITE of personal service that you will struggle 06 Proving there are 26 Your complete online guide With every break in the clouds, you can to find with such consistent quality as no scapegoats when to St James’s. feel London’s spirits lift. Every ray of in St James’s. it comes to luxury sunshine ignites an exclamation of pure Sometimes it’s easy to forget in the cashmere production. TEAM ST JAMES’S joy as it moves from crowd to crowd. West End that shopping shouldn’t be a 18 27 From shopkeepers to It’s a little touch of kindness; a reminder feat of will power, but luckily St James’s CALENDAR the keeper of shops, that the winter will eventually abate and has a way of turning that quick pit stop 10 Events sure to put meet a new member from we will begin to see our city differently, into a journey of enlightenment. a spring in your step. The Crown Estate. more positively. That’s why we had to change our Over and over again in putting this website. If you’re not aware, there’s a NEW ARRIVALS PROPERTY latest issue together, we’ve been reminded destination website for St James’s – with 11 St James’s shops who’ll 28 Home to The Crown Estate’s how the same power can radiate from up-to-date news, events and new articles soon be just ‘like the boys’. property availability list. individuals and experiences. In the every – which has heretofore been a poor BRIDGET RILEY day, it’s the bright and cheery postman, relation to the newspaper. Taking a leaf 11 Profile on Sims Reed the umbrella lent by a friend, or even that out of the local book, it was time to revisit gallery and their rare event: a warm welcome-back smile our own brand experience. So after a ‘Op’portune new exhibition. from the maître’d. spring-clean and more than a lick of paint, Most recently, it has been the positivity please pop by and make your introduction. and generosity of our contributors. It We also suggest signing up to our was the team from the old family-owned newsletter. For regular visitors and locals, joiners who enthusiastically (and patiently) it is a monthly reminder about exhibitions explained their mind-bendingly complex in the area, some of the best bits from the technical draughts. It was the luxury website to catch up on and places to visit cashmere specialists who let us beg, that may well just make your day. borrow and re-borrow item after item for different photography shoots. It was [email protected] stjameslondon.co.uk the supremely smiley team of mustard messieurs who replied to such bland questions as “so what actually is in Dijon mustard?” with answers of brilliant Dover Street Bond Street insight and pithy piquancy. Completing our second year and eighth stjameslondon.co.uk publication as St James’s local newspaper, Piccadilly [email protected] @_stjameslondon it’s been a timely reminder that we Piccadilly Circus are representing something very special Green Park Commissioned by here. St James’s is in many ways a

Regent Street St James’s St Street Regent

Duke Street St James’s St Street Duke

Bury Street St James’s St Street Bury St James’s London

St James’s St Street The Crown Estate collection of supremely talented, world-

Haymarket 16 New Burlington Place Mason’s revered businesses who have founded London W1S 2HX Yard their company’s model, and found great thecrownestate.co.uk success with the repeat order.

Green Park Cover photo by King Street Charles II Street Ivan Jones

Design and editorial by dn&co. St James’s Square Place Waterloo

Pall Mall Marlborough Road

Carlton House Terrace Charing Cross (5 mins)

The Mall St James’s Park Photo: Mariona Vilarós Photo:

02 03 St James’s Correspondent VILLAGE NEWS Illustration: Lucille Clerc Illustration:

Archive guarantee that each would Cybernetic be perfectly happy for an hour

Photo: Kate Peters Kate Photo: without you having to lift Serendipity, 1968. a finger to entertain them?” Community The piece that caused the It is 1968: Prime Minister biggest stir was by artist Bruce St James’s Conservation Trust Harold Wilson has just Lacey. A participatory piece, delivered his famous “white the viewer climbed into a sort Conservation trusts have often come to building from the usual carbuncle of air heat of technology” speech at of capsule, where they were be associated with typewriter-wielding conditioning units, flues, power plants the Labour Party conference; shown what Lacey called Luddite stereotypes with a vitriolic and the like – to paving stones. Britain’s biggest computer “non-specific erotic images” stranglehold on beautiful places of They championed Jay Jopling with manufacturer ICL has just while being rocked and tilted changing community needs. But, if we’re the construction of White Cube in formed, and the Institute like a fairground, and to take our St James’s Conservation Trust Mason’s Yard, and also fully supported of Contemporary Arts (ICA) massaged and prodded with as an example, not only is this stereotype his bureaucratically-convoluted wish to is devoting their inaugural red rubber rollers and soft out of date but the term ‘conservation’ replace the black tarmac with the beautiful exhibition at their new Nash vibrating objects. According seems woefully inaccurate. cobbles we now associate with the gallery’s House site in St James’s to the to reference from the time, Resident’s column “Everyone expects us to be NIMBYs. private views and drinks out the back new Computer Technologies. women liked the piece more But our ambitions are clear: protection of Chequers Tavern. Cybernetic Serendipity, than men. Although Princess Nicolas Payne Baader and enhancement. And enhancement They are also at the frontline for curated by Jasia Reichardt, Margaret, on visiting the is equally, if not more, important.” preserving our high quality of life in was a groundbreaking show. exhibition, only dared to Working in and feeling a part of St James’s perfectly formed a St James’s dress code manner, but just where they are still lived, The trust’s secretary Peter Heath is Westminster. As pressure mounts with It introduced the works of watch her then husband Lord is an unusual thing. Despite growing up for men, and that it is actually the dress from shopkeepers who know their products keen to point out that their work is about the number of late license applications, over 130 participants from Snowdon brave the device. in London and being no stranger to the code on which ‘English Style’ is built. back to front – whether they are selling helping create positive change for the they temper helping local businesses around the world, including Since Cybernetic West End throughout my youth, St James’s From the bottom up, it is a perfectly a toothbrush, a Dutch Masterpiece or a progress of St James’s. This is evolution flourish with ensuring that St James’s engineers, artists, Serendipity, the ICA has was an area that I never really frequented polished, very old but amazingly well bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape – to where not conservation. doesn’t turn into an all-night knees-up. mathematicians, composers continued to explore the much. There was the occasional trip or made pair of loafers or English brogues, the visitors book has William Hague below With a trust made up of active residents Heath describes St James’s as “one and poets. The aim was to relationship between art and two down to Jermyn Street, when my suit trousers with hems that perfectly Johnny Depp. and international businesses, most of the country’s most important historical demonstrate and “manifest” technology. Artist Ivan Pope teenage self was convinced that the cravat hover above, never touching, to show off It has been about six months since of their work is actually, perhaps assets”, adding, “it needs care and attention, artists’ involvement with constructed the world’s first was surely due a comeback, and of course an exact centimetre of brightly coloured I last got off my bike on King Street, to unsurprisingly, proactive. With intimate but we’re well aware that keeping an asset science, and scientists’ cybercafé in the ICA theatre the slightly begrudging trips walking woollen sock. wheel it down Crown Passage and through knowledge, vested commercial interests, going means making it viable. Living involvement with the arts. in 1994, while in 2001, uncomfortably slowly with a Great Aunt Up top is a cotton shirt, normally the back entrance of Lock & Co. where I and personal experience (they have seen heritage is the best way to protection.” The result was a menagerie a month-long festival, What around the front of Buckingham Palace, starched, and coupled with a striped was marketing manager, and being gone what’s worked and what hasn’t), they Bending the ear of Westminster City of strange and wonderful Do You Want To Do With It? but it wasn’t until I started working in necktie. And sometimes those suit jackets is a strange feeling. There is no other provide a service: local reports of good Council or working with landlords like contraptions, from sound- examined developing aspects St James’s at 17 that my eyes were opened that are so well constructed it would area like St James’s, and although it took practice, a sounding board for initial The Crown Estate, they are a trust in making and composing of digital technology. And and I began to appreciate that it is a real appear that they could almost stand up a while for me to appreciate it, as I write design ideas, and those treasured letters whom we can trust. “We aim to give computers, to painting now, nearly 50 years on, when area and one that holds more meaning on their own, but that also means that it now I realise how much I already miss it. of recommendation. They are a local options that are non-contentious, and machines, early robots, and computers seemingly touch and history for many than possibly any won’t wear out in your lifetime – or your voice, sometimes of concern, but also helpfully identify matters early so that light-responsive mobiles. nearly every part of our other square mile in Britain, including future generations’. of endorsement. A boon for planning. they might not come to conflict.” A truly For such a first-of-its-kind everyday lives, the ICA the Square Mile. In the winter, there is always the covert They wish to see that the future benign approach that Heath hopes will show, it was immensely presents the cutting edge I never realised that the big buildings coat and a brown hat, occasionally slightly development of St James’s is done right. turn around that old “we-never-thought- successful, luring people who of visual culture in this lining either side of St James’s Street too small because it’s seen the pouring But defining ‘done right’ can be tricky. they-would-go-for-it” attitude. Far from would never have normally expanding field, continuing were actually gentlemen’s clubs, or that rain a few too many times. It is the only It is, in the first instance, a matter of the clatter of typewriters, check out their dreamed of attending an to transport visitors far into gentlemen’s clubs were something that area where ‘casual Friday’ still means a practicality; ensuring buildings are not new website in the quiet of your home ICA exhibition. Over the visions of the future. actually existed. Neither had I realised tweed blazer and brogues, and the only too high to block light from the street, in the coming months, for new reports two-month run, 60,000 that walking around any given side street area where you can see men with two or advising tenants how best to channel and an education on St James’s as a piece queued for a glimpse into the in the area will expose you to almost as peerages and four last names returning new restaurant food fumes below away of living heritage. future. As an Evening Standard many artistic masterpieces of every genre to get their coat trustingly mended. from existing flats above. journalist commented: than walking through any room at the St James’s though, with all of its It is also about appropriateness. That “Where in London could you take ICA , SW1Y 5AH National Gallery. Neither too had I realised idiosyncrasies, is an important keeper carefully won balance between embracing a hippy, a computer programmer, ica.org.uk that there is so incredibly, distinctly, and of traditions. Not in a pretentious or false @nicolasbaader the new and preserving the best of the old. a ten-year-old schoolboy and @icalondon Their reports cover everything from St James’s Conservation Trust

Illustration: Lucille Clerc Illustration: skylines – how to mask the top of your sjctrust.org

04 05 St James’s Correspondent N.PEAL

N.PEAL

From Mongolia to Piccadilly, a gentle introduction to cashmere craftsmanship

On our corner of Piccadilly Circus, as Piccadilly begins its grand promenade westwards, you will find a place of surprising calm: the new store from luxury cashmere specialists N.Peal. Neat stacks of soft sweaters line the shelves, arranged in spectrums, sometimes in pinks – putty, heather, magenta, berry – other times in neutrals – ivory, blonde, tan, conker. And we are introduced to a mellifluous list of greys, pulling out pieces in dark charcoal, silver grey, pewter, petrol, a grey-green called ‘Serpentine’, and the grey of grand stone civic buildings

called ‘Derby’. N.Peal of Courtesy Photo:

06 07 St James’s Correspondent N.PEAL

There is something so deeply comforting Softly, softly. from every kilo of fibre. And to put that about being enveloped in soft cashmere into perspective, 5,400 metres go into that it brings London outside to a hush. The quality of cashmere is assessed every one of their women’s classic sweaters. And stepping into this small shop is according to a set of strict criteria, namely The yarn can then be dyed, ready for much like entering a beautifully curated length, colour and fineness of the fibre. knitting. Though each section is knitted version of your own winter closet. The N.Peal has set itself even stricter standards, by machines – drawing in thousands of smoky ‘Fumo’ grey carpet too is so soft however, limiting fineness to 15.5 microns threads and spitting out the final material that every step is captured in perfect, (a 15th of a millimetre) and a minimum like a huge inkjet printer – they are sewn incriminating footprint. length of 38mm. and finished by hand, a beautiful detail In order to fully introduce N.Peal, The hairs are combed out during to consider when next in the shop. there are a couple of strands of enquiry spring, when the goat would naturally to follow to unpick what goes into shed its winter protection. From Patterns of behaviour. making this luxury brand so special. individual herders, the hair then goes through a process of refinement and The garments at N.Peal generally fall Stepping out. manufacture. It is first sorted, separating into two types – classic and seasonal. out short fibres – which are more The classic range provides variations on Our story begins in the vast, cold steppes susceptible to piling as part of a garment the theme of the sweater, mixing elements of Mongolia. In fact, we’re specifically – or any darker hairs that are unable to like colour, type – crew, v, roll neck – or talking about the coldest and most absorb dye. knit – cable, ribbed, Aran. There are also inhospitable parts of this strange landscape, The raw cashmere is then scoured, Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter for N.Peal has an established relationship where it is washed in a series of hot tanks collections, which offer more experimental with this area – or aimag – its nomadic that cover a length of 100 metres, to or trend-led, up-to-date options. herders and its very special goats. remove the natural oils, or lanolin, from The new Spring/Summer collection will Essentially, cashmere is made from the natural fibres. Next, the de-hairing be available at the time of publication. spun goat hair. Grown during the winter, line is a mechanical version of the Accessories are the focus of the new a goat’s coat is split into two parts – a thick traditional carding process, where fleece St James’s shop, with hats in chunky protective overcoat and a soft, warm is combed into uniform long strands. cable or fine ribbed knit, rabbit fur mittens, downy undercoat. Hair for cashmere is The cleaned, straight, uniform fibres and woven cashmere scarves. There taken from the undercoat grown around are then spun into an even yarn. A difficult is a particular men’s hat in lamb leather the neck and spine – where the hair is at process by hand or machine, so N.Peal and racoon fur, which with every wear its longest to protect from the arctic winds only uses the top-spec mule spinners by stimulates the same devotion you have

and temperatures that plummet to -50°C. Italian firm Bigagli, creating 27,000 metres to your duvet on cold Sunday mornings. Mariona Vilarós Photo:

N.Peal only uses the top-spec mule spinners by Italian firm Bigagli, creating 27,000 metres from every kilo of fibre – 5,400 metres go into every one of their women’s classic sweaters.

Tying it all together. Princess Diana, Princess Grace of Monaco their commitment to cashmere of the and the Duchess of Cambridge. highest quality. Take a moment of respite N.Peal opened in 1936, the same Peal’s journeys to the Eastern Seaboard from Piccadilly Circus, and prepare for founding year as the red telephone box, of the United States not only attracted a warm welcome. the speaking clock and the Spitfire annual brochure subscriptions totalling airplane. Not to mention it was the year 18,000, but brilliant press reports. One in Prince Edward ascended to the throne particular describes Peal as the “sweater – breaking protocol by watching the king of England…a jolly, talkative chap proclamation from a window in St James’s and in the matter of sweaters has no peer.” Palace with Wallis Simpson – and the year Ever the raconteur, the article goes on to he abdicated. detail Peal’s retelling of the story of Percy An entrepreneurial young man called the Piccadilly Poltergeist. Norman Leapman, later Nat Peal, opened Admiring the small store and its as a cashmere specialist in Piccadilly’s cascades of colourful cashmere, N.Peal famous – the same is so suitable for St James’s that it almost store as today. But when the war shipped feels familiar. Some of that déjà vu him to the Shetland Isles, Peal formed may come from the level of quality a great and direct relationship with endorsement that has come from its high local woollen craftsmen there, sending profile patrons and its association with beautiful high-quality sweaters back film, most recently with the Bond to London and providing luxury items franchise. But it is also its well-rounded

in a time of few home comforts. St James’s character – the experience of N.Peal of Courtesy Photo: With the return of international its heritage, the knowledge of a specialist, trade, N.Peal soon began to build so fine the discipline of consistent quality, a reputation that success was garnered and the value they place on reputation. from British to Hollywood royalty, A reputation won by the pluck of its with admirers including Ava Gardner, entrepreneurial founder, but – as with N.Peal 217 Piccadilly, W1J 9HN Marilyn Monroe, Cary Grant, current director-owners Adam Holdsworth npeal.com

Photo: Mariona Vilarós Photo: Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor, and Nick Folkingham – also assured by @npeal1936

08 09 St James’s Correspondent CULTURE

CALENDAR THE HEART OF THINGS CONTINENTAL LOSS: THE QUEST TO DETERMINE Summer events March 10 – April 4 ANTARCTICA’S CONTRIBUTION Jermyn Street Theatre TO SEA-LEVEL CHANGE 16b Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6ST BRIDGET RILEY: April 21, 6:30pm PRINTS 1962 – 2015 With elections looming, it is once The Royal Society again time to re-engage in the 6–9 Carlton House Terrace, February 25 – March 15 political world. Giles Cole’s SW1Y 5AG Sims Reed Gallery The Heart of Things takes place 30 Bury Street, SW1Y 6AU over a weekend in May 2010 Professor Matt King discusses following the general election current thought on Antarctica’s This is a rare chance to see deadlock. As the political contribution to sea level. brilliant artist Bridget Riley’s parties tussle over who will For the past 50 years this major mesmeric prints. Encompassing form a coalition government, ecological crisis was an issue around 40 works, from the first a disillusioned English teacher of intense disagreement within selected events prints she made in 1962 to her and election volunteer returns the scientific community. The most recent output, this show home to the Norfolk coast underlying question: is the ice Joan Miró: Eight Sculptures focuses on the complete sets, to take control of his own life. sheet growing or shrinking? including Fragments, 19 Greys, But like the unpredictable Advances in data analysis and Coloured Greys, Elongated manoeuvring in Whitehall, there computer modelling in 2012 Triangles and Arcadia. Hung are no easy solutions to his showed clearly that Antarctica together in one place for the troubling family situation. With is contributing to sea-level rise. first time, this is a unique themes of identity and ambition, Professor King explains the key demonstration of how Riley love and loyalty, it appears that developments that led to the explores colour and form even the smallest of events can findings and examines the through the subtlest of lie at the heart of things. fascinating insights Antarctica alterations. Often arrived at reveals about Earth. A journey through making studies for Tel. +44 (0)20 7287 2875 that transports you from paintings, these prints, notably jermynstreettheatre.co.uk hundreds of miles above Earth’s Fragments, also started her @jstheatre surface to hundreds of miles interest in the possibilities below, and from the present-day of seriality. Expect walls of ice sheet to the ice sheet of perceptible transition and YDESSA HENDELES: 20,000 years ago, and even dazzling beauty. FROM HER WOODEN SLEEP… possibly into the future.

Tel. +44 (0)20 7930 5111 Mar 25 – May 17 Tel. +44 (0)20 7451 2500 Ivan Jones Photo: gallery.simsreed.com ICA royalsociety.org @sims_reed The Mall, SW1Y 5AH @royalsociety des Garçons : Comme Courtesy Photos Report Ydessa Hendeles is a pioneering Christian Rosa: Put Your exponent of curating as artistic LONG ROOM DINNER: New Arrivals Eye in Your Mouth practice. Known for her large- VIÑO DE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO Sims Reed Gallery: scale, site-specific curatorial Opening soon 20 March – 23 May compositions that blur the line May 18, 7:30pm Bridget Riley White Cube between collector, curator and Berry Bros & Rudd 25 – 26 Mason’s Yard, SW1Y 6BU artist, Hendeles has fashioned 3 St James’s Street, SW1A 1EG La Martina her own unique space in the The gallery of Art – in the same year as Sir Peter Blake These works showcase Brazilian- contemporary art world. In Join Berry Bros & Rudd for an The full regalia of top-level and Frank Auerbach – Riley first worked born artist Christian Rosa’s From her wooden sleep… this entertaining wine dinner in the equipment, garments and leather Sims Reed specialises in prints and works as a teacher before achieving huge success instinctive approach to painting. German-born Canadian artist exclusive Long Room, situated accessories are now available on paper by the big names in 20th century in the ‘60s, with works that launched her Despite a nod to the ideals pulls together disparate and behind the shop and across at the exclusive polo outfitters’ Photo: Courtesy of Dickinson of Courtesy Photo: of high modernism, with clear charged cultural artefacts Pickering Place – London’s flagship London shop at art – think Caulfield, Doig, Hockney, trademark exploration of sight and the references to Wassily Kandinsky to choreograph an intimate smallest public square. Hosted No.23 Jermyn Street. Matisse, Miró, Paolozzi, Twombly and effects of shape and colour on the eye. and Cy Twombly, Rosa’s encounter for the audience. by Spanish wine specialist Javier January 29 – April 1 Warhol – and the leading lights in paintings are in fact personal A collection of 150 wooden Perurena, this dinner celebrates Just opened Dickinson voyages of discovery, where manikins – ranging from the the intriguing history of the contemporary art, with a gallery space at The accolades 58 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6LX isolated elements in primary 1520s to the 1930s – surrounds Camino de Santiago – the the bottom of The Economist Building on colour – lines, dots, squares, a lone figure that appears to be Christian pilgrimage to the Chutney Mary — and scribbles – drift against stuck in their gaze. shrine of the apostle St James the corner of Ryder Street and Bury Street. An ever-popular artist, Riley has also Selected from the Yorkshire Sculpture Park by Joan Miró’s a raw background canvas. the Great. Following the route, The restaurant that forever achieved worldwide recognition with grandson and great-granddaughter, these eight works are Also a skilled craftsman, Rosa’s Tel. +44 (0)20 7930 3647 you will taste local wines from changed the dining landscape is The reputation art prizes, including, early in her career, investigations harness the ica.org.uk Bordeaux and Piedmont, with on show for a final time before being sold to raise funds soon set to evolve again, moving being the first British contemporary inherent qualities of materials @icalondon some of the most beloved from Chelsea to St James’s for the Park. Created later in his life, Miró’s sculptures from the free vapour of spray tipples from Rías Baixas and Street and offering much more Established in 1995, they are known for painter, and first woman, to be awarded exude his signature irreverence and playfulness – found paint to the graphic nature of Bierzo. Along the way, Perurena than just their brand of fine their curatorial eye, with exhibitions the International Prize for painting at the pencil and paint. The results are TINA JENKINS will be on hand to tell the story Indian cuisine. objects collected on walks or items from around the studio consistently elusive – neither of the Camino. that display their extensive collection in Venice Biennale in ’68. Riley retrospectives that are combined with modelled clay elements. The fully formed nor unfinished, they March 30 – April 11 Opening Summer 2015 thoughtful and thought-provoking themes, are always highly anticipated and well results, once cast in bronze, have the allure of spontaneity question notions of success and Mall Galleries Tel. +44 (0)800 280 2440 and their client services, where they seek attended, most recently in London at failure of a painting and trust in The Mall, SW1Y 5BD bbr.com though formally considered works. Tree stumps and artist out special or rare prints on request. They the Serpentine Gallery (1999), Tate (2003) the unexpected. @berrybrosrudd COMME DES GARÇONS tools transmute with fragments of pottery and rocks In winning the coveted also put together excellent solo exhibitions, and National Gallery (2011). to make objects pushing at the boundaries of identity. Tel. +44 (0)20 7930 5373 Threadneedle Prize last year with Dover Street Market moves to as with their latest on Bridget Riley. whitecube.com her striking painting Bed Head, Royal Over-Seas League — Haymarket: the Japanese fashion The quote @_whitecube Tina Jenkins was awarded a Annual Music Competition label and lifestyle brand announce Tel: +44 (0)20 7493 0340 simondickinson.com showcase at the esteemed Grand Final plans to relocate their iconic The exhibition @simoncdickinson Mall Galleries. Jenkins’ body of multi-brand concept store into “Focusing isn’t just an optical activity; work probes deeper into the big 1 June, 7:00pm the beautiful old Burberry building. questions facing contemporary Queen Elizabeth Hall, Their first ever show dedicated to British it is also a mental one.” painters. How does a painter Southbank Centre Yet to be released artist Bridget Riley, this exhibition contend with the historical spans the artist’s fifty plus years of screen- The reason weight of painterly traditions? This St James’s club’s beloved printing, from draughts revealed at How does one redefine music competition is a key event Milos something defined so many in the capital’s music calendar. Riley’s debut show in 1962 to pieces only Don’t bluster on blur, but look sharp with times before? What is painting Listen to performances by the Opening in beautiful No.1 Regent 18 months off the drying rack. Expect to Sims Reed’s focused show on the works supposed to be today? Her winners of the string, voice, wind Street, this critically acclaimed discover her full career and witness its and workings of an Op Art illusionist and answer is a conscious diving and keyboard sections as they restaurant is known worldwide for into the painting process; “a compete for the prestigious Gold its cosmopolitan take on seafood, development from early black and white British artistic genius. seizing of the self within.” The Medal and first prize of £10,000. with daily deliveries fresh from optical tricks and experiments in grey, result: gorgeously hysterical A distinguished panel of judges the Aegean. acts of painterly affirmation. chaired by Gavin Henderson CBE to the damascene move into colour. will have the difficult task of Opening Summer 2015 Tel. +44 (0)20 7930 6844 making their final decision. The artist mallgalleries.org.uk @mallgalleries Tel: +44 (0)20 7408 0214 rosl.org.uk Born in London in 1931, Riley is from Sims Reed Gallery @rosl1910 For further information of new 30 Bury Street, SW1Y 6AU openings in St James’s visit a family of printers. Having studied at gallery.simsreed.com stjameslondon.co.uk Goldsmiths and then the Royal College @sims_reed

10 11 St James’s Correspondent FASHION

Colour comes in waves. Each colour has its own unique wavelength and frequency, making up the slow and quick parts of all light. Red is sluggish and yellow mellow, whereas deep blue and violet come in lightening quick bursts.

COLOUR RHYTHMS

Spring 2015

Photography Josh Shinner

Styling Poppy Waddell

Grooming / Make-up Camilla Hewitt & Diana Moar

12 13 St James’s Correspondent FASHION

This merry dance is something artist Bridget Riley explores in her eye-tricking, mind-bending geometric prints. Taking cues from the retrospective exhibition at Sims Reed gallery, we have composed our seasonal selects, arranging these other great works of art from the fashion brands of St James’s.

Previous: Tom wears white trench coat with black collar detail by Aquascutum.

Bridget Riley, Large Fragment screenprint, 2006

Far Left: Georgia wears pleated, yellow and black dress with asymmetric cut by Tiger of Sweden.

Above and Left: Georgia wears coral trousers with checked drawstring detail and camel painter’s smock from DAKS.

Bridget Riley, From One to the Other screenprint, 2005

14 15 St James’s Correspondent FASHION

Aquascutum N. Peal 78 – 79 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6NP 217 Piccadilly, W1J 9HN Tel. +44(0)20 3096 1865 Tel. +44 (0)20 7499 6485 aquascutum.com npeal.com

DAKS Tiger of Sweden This page and opposite: 101 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6EE 210 Piccadilly, W1A 9HL Georgia wears pleated white Tel. +44 (0)20 7839 9980 Tel. +44 (0)20 7439 8491 skirt from DAKS, silk slip from Tiger of Sweden and daks.com tigerofsweden.com grey cashmere belted shawl from N. Peal. Hackett Tom wears cornflower blue 87 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6JD trousers, navy suede bomber jacket and navy leather Tel. +44 (0)20 7930 1300 brogues, all by Hackett. hackett.com Left: Sol Lewitt, Pyramids (Plate #2) aquatint, 1987

Right: Sol Lewitt, Pyramids (Plate #3) aquatint, 1987

16 17 St James’s Correspondent Shopping

Indeed, there are some very strange-sounding combinations, or certainly anachronisms to our modern palate. But the really strange thing is that they are all, well, delicious.

Oh Maille!

What is a mustard boutique?

Photography Mariona Vilarós

“A mustard boutique… what an unusual perspiration from ruining their make up. is still there today – in 1845, their third, idea!” This is the reaction store manager One of Maille’s newest re-releases another in Paris in 1996, and a relatively- Harry D Lalousis gets from visitors to – cocoa and raspberry – was inspired speedy fourth here in St James’s in 2013. Piccadilly. “And then they see the pumps…!” by the flavours that were served to Their collection of mustards also It’s true – a row of pumps on a bar by the Marie Antoinette and King Louis XVI, amasses over the centuries, when with window, surrounded by a library of which Harry recommends mixing with each spring and autumn they bring out different mustards, row on row of glass crème fraîche to serve with pancakes, new seasonal varieties, which, when pots in different hues from the dark or with ice cream. judged by their popularity, may make it brown of Branston Pickle to hot pink. Indeed, there are some very strange- into the permanent collection. It is with “We do a lot more varieties than people sounding combinations, or certainly the knowledge of this full back catalogue think, and the French have been pumping anachronisms to our modern palate. that Lalousis and his fellow bons vivants mustard for as long as they have beer.” Take one of their oldest recipes, coupling challenge customers to suggest any meal Maille will be familiar to a lot of you. Bourgogne specialties – chestnut, honey and they will pair it with an appropriate But the boutique’s mystique comes and gingerbread. But the really strange flavour – a final coup de grâce from the because we’re surprisingly unfamiliar thing is that they are all, well, delicious. must-haves of mustards. with the heritage of creativity of this The mustard seems to simply intensify beloved brand. Quelle surprise, we’re any added ingredients, whether it’s nuts, going to let you in on a few. mushrooms, herbs, fruits or legumes. The first is that Maille doesn’t grind Maille’s earliest records were lost in its mustard, they cut it. It’s still the classic the French Revolution with the burning Dijon recipe – white wine vinegar, salt, of the Bastille, so they take their date mustard seeds – but this method from the contract of their first boutique “changes the chemistry”, avoiding that in Paris in 1747. The moutarderie is up-the-nose flare of heat. Pardon my cliché, named after its founder Antoine Maille, but Maille really does cut the mustard. who set up the company to ‘still be around Maille was particularly coveted by the in a thousand years.’ He had grand Maille Boutique London Piccadilly Arcade, SW1Y 6NH crème de la crème of French aristocracy, ambitions of modest progress, opening maille.co.uk who wanted to prevent too-hot-a-mustard their second boutique in Dijon – which @mailleuk

18 19 St James’s Correspondent Shopping

Perfumery is surely one of the magic arts? The ledgers of exotic elements – esters, ethers and phenols – the secret blends, the coveted recipes.

And the process of identifying a new scent can be equally bewildering, bouncing from one perfume counter to the next. It is then with surprisingly educative vim that Floris dispels their own aromatic alchemy, listing the fragrance notes of its signature scents. Each perfume is split between top,

Fresh Perspectives heart and base notes. In essence, top notes make up that immediate whiff – strong but volatile, they often evaporate within minutes of application. 01 Elite 03 Soulle Ámbar Heart notes emerge next. Mellow and rounded, they balance the overall Top notes Bergamot (citrus fruit), Top notes Bergamot, galbanum (gum resin), enjoyment of a scent, allowing the base cedar leaf, grapefruit, juniper berry, pineapple, lentisque (pistachio family resin) lemon, petitgrain (bitter orange leaves) Heart notes Pink peppercorn, geranium, notes to mature, which come to the fore Heart notes Bay, fir balsam, lavender jasmine, melilot (sweet clover) from 30 minutes onwards to last the day. Base notes Amber, cedarwood, leather, Base notes Amber, vanilla, musk Here, we have annotated the composition moss, musk (boar hair), patchouli (mint family herb), vetiver (Indian grass) 04 Bouquet de Le Reine of some of their popular perfumes, hoping that by dispelling the individual parts 02 No.89 Top notes Bergamot, blackcurrant buds, we will reveal the true magic in the art peach, violet leaf Top notes Bergamot, lavender, neroli Heart notes Jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, of Floris’s perfumes. (bitter orange blossom), nutmeg, orange tuberose, ylang ylang and petitgrain Base notes Oakmoss, sandalwood, vanilla Heart notes Geranium, rose, ylang ylang (tropical flowers) Base notes Cedarwood, musk , oakmoss, Floris sandalwood, vetiver 89 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6JH florislondon.com

@florislondon Mariona Vilarós Photo:

20 21 St James’s Correspondent BUILT ENVIRONMENT

ON GOOD FORM

A family firm shows us how to make a great first and lasting impression

Photography Ivan Jones

If years of watching property TV shows have taught us one thing: invest in good labour. Their knowledge helps shape our plans, their skills shave off time, and their experience saves us from heartache. The eventual outcome rightly turns construction into artistry, and a design into a home. But can the same be said of new offices? And what’s the value of making something-to-last when it comes to the modern workspace? Following The Crown Estate as they develop their St James’s portfolio of office buildings, they invited us to take an aspect of a new development and examine its production. We chose the reception desk, as there seemed no better physical introduction to this line of enquiry. Our investigation would take us all the way to… West Hampstead.

22 23 St James’s Correspondent BUILT ENVIRONMENT

C.T. & S. Joinery is a family-run company created a kit of many parts and a joiner circular work now, whereas you would in its sixth generation. With buildings set constructed every complex intersection make a drum to stave it all. It was so around a steep yard between the area’s to finish the piece. This a particular time-consuming; it was unbelievable. leafy streets and the railway, they started challenge, as the desk is made from many It took days and days just staving a door. out in 1846 making coffins. Today, their different materials, from solid American But now, with modern machinery: it’s trade is split between high-end interior oak, oak veneers, ply, metal frame, leather, progress basically. It’s got a bit easier decoration and a much-evolved form of stone and an integrated lighting unit with with modern-day tools, but the process the original joinery business – think glass panels. is still the same. You still have to go back bespoke Burmese teak shelving systems The desk was constructed by John Crow, to the original setting out, marking out, for very smart home offices, or a joiner with over forty years’ experience machining and hand building.” made-to-measure windows for the at C.T. & S. Joinery: “I’ve been here since Shortly before publication, the desk interior team’s luxury property projects. I left school. The shop hasn’t really was installed. Solidly built, but fine and We arrive at lunchtime. The sun is changed since I was a lad: the layout is light in appearance, it is surrounded by streaming through the workshop’s wall just the same. You had a trial period for beautiful six-metre-high oak panelling of windows and across a row of six months, then a five-year apprenticeship. with integrated lighting – also completed workbenches covered in odd-shaped Originally, Simon Tavener’s grandads, by the firm. A “non-typical” piece and hand tools and timber of different hues Kenneth and Alec, were my bosses; “very modern”, as described by Thornton, and grains. Stepping into a cloud of fine so three generations of the Taveners. it is a triumph of contemporary design particles and the vapour of fresh warm The whole set-up was you were here to crafted from traditional expertise. It is sawdust, workmen are playing darts in learn. Times with Ernie, the old foreman, a tangible investment, full of those key the back room amid large arches and box he would have you cut every joint by St James’s qualities – patience, the mark frames that are ready to be primed for hand, and you wouldn’t dare put in any of the craftsman, and construction painting. Steve Thornton, Assistant filler or anything ’cause he would just complexity reduced to elegant simplicity. Manager, explains that work is roughly throw it away. You would repeat things.” True, in the grand scheme of things, it’s split between machinists and joiners. The workshop encapsulates a lot of the just one element. But it’s also a testament Machinists cut and form all the separate positivity of British skilled craft today. to how to go about making a good office, elements, and joiners (excuse the Every generation is represented, from a great office. ham-handed oversimplification) join fresh-faced apprentice to experienced them together. hand. Many are in fact the second or The reception desk we’re following is third generation of local families that for new offices at 11 Charles II Street. Its have worked there. Similarly, next design was sketched out by the building’s generation machinery joins traditional architects, 3M, which was then interpreted hand tooling. The new cutting machine by a CAD (computer-aided design) is only weeks old. Crow adds, “I wouldn’t C.T. & S. Joinery designer. This process took four weeks. say it’s easier to learn now. It’s more 188 Iverson Road, NW6 2HL ctsjoinery.com The result was an intensely detailed set developed. There’s more machinery 11 Charles II Street, SW1Y 4QU of drawings, from which the machinists involved. You know, there’s airbags for thestreettothesquare.com

It was so time-consuming: it was unbelievable. But now, with modern machinery: it’s progress basically. It’s got a bit easier, but the process is still the same.

24 25 St James’s Correspondent BUILT ENVIRONMENT

WE’RE CREATING THE NEXT GENERATION OF BRICKS AND MORTAR SOLUTIONS.

Taking the key principles of St James’s – like our quality, history, the reputation for retail and finance – St James’s Market will be a scheme of complete change, but also one that will still embody all the qualities of St James’s.

TWO MILLION SQ FT IS A VERY GOOD REASON WHY BRANDS SHOULD BE TALKING TO THE CROWN ESTATE.

It’s important because it shows the positive influence the portfolio can have on St James’s through our long-term investment. The change here – the new Restoration retailers, the pop-ups, the events – it’s Our new website a great story. I WAS PROUD TO SPEAK AT LONDON Forgive us a moment of self-promotion, And in many ways, it was easy. St James’s win excellent examples from St James’s COLLECTIONS: MEN. as we proudly introduce our new website, is a great place to make connections. great craftsmen. with online articles, prize draws and up- Jason Philips of Franco’s and Wiltons, We have an events section that details Our collaboration with Fortnum & Mason to-date news on food, fashion, art and for example, introduced us to shirtmaking exhibitions, wine tastings, concerts, etc., for LC:M was exceptional, with some very lifestyle in St James’s. We muse on how friends on Jermyn Street, who showed where you’re able to see what’s on today high profile members of the fashion world a fresh design can lead to refreshed us to galleries, who recommended or when you’re visiting next month. attending. These events are unique for a thinking, and how heritage brands can restaurants where they liked to take clients We have also integrated Instagram and property portfolio and are getting better engage a modern audience online. – on went a virtuous cycle, for this is the Twitter so you can keep tabs on progress and better. They show the strength and great interconnectedness of this central via live reporting from local events, depth to how we do business. It resonates The background London community. including our now established Jermyn with new brands, knowing they’ve Street St James’s presentation at London a landlord that will help them trade You may have noticed that St James’s is Time to refresh Collections: Men. successfully and a whole raft of tools changing. For us, we have that strange There is also a complete business for them and the place to thrive. sensation when you work closely This early iteration was an online directory, with opening times, addresses on a project, where you recognise that introduction to the uninitiated. But with and web addresses for everything from RETAIL’S ALWAYS BEEN IN MY BLOOD.

things have changed but you don’t fully growing recognition of St James’s the pharmacy and bank, to your nearest Mariona Vilarós Photo: appreciate the differences until you take position at the centre of luxury – in fields antique clock repairer. And a new I come from a family of shopkeepers, a moment to look at where it all started. as diverse as all-day dining, wine, modern publications section, where you can reread and my father had a shop in Bristol It all began with a booklet and map heritage fashion, technical clothing, out- all previous issues of The Correspondent or Team St James’s selling leather luggage and outdoor wear. – The Crown Estate’s foundation door pursuits, yachts, and contemporary download our local guides. Or even that I took this retail passion into my property documents containing a set of strategies art – we now herald a new and original booklet and map. Tim Webb career, where I’ve been responsible for St James’s. Strategies that marked representative website. We hope we can humbly say that we for redeveloping redundant and under- the beginning of a ten-year investment The Correspondent treads a careful line have given you an idea how the area has We talked shop with Retail Business younger brands are saying to us that utilised sites, often introducing new programme, and that would go on to serve between modern presentation and changed over the years. But really, it’s Development Manager, Tim Webb, for their brand values prevail here too. And retail as the driver for positive change. as a manifesto and quality yardstick appreciation for our heritage. But what only just begun. Visit the new website our latest interview with a member of with Comme des Garçons and Dover for the right kind of new tenants – shops, does this look like in a website? We liken to share, like or follow the future of the St James’s team, covering progress Street Market relocating to Haymarket, MY WEEKENDS ARE MANIC. restaurants, galleries – and the right types it to a gallery where you feel welcome St James’s as it loads. on their £500m investment in the area. they see these respected brands as of development. to look how and for as long as you like. guiding lights that are moving this way. I commute in from Somerset and we Part of that initial declaration included It’s a place to explore, to learn and to I’M RESPONSIBLE FOR NEW RETAIL have a busy family life ferrying between coming up with ways to communicate how engage with the riches of St James’s. ACROSS REGENT STREET AND ST JAMES’S. HOW WE SHOP IN LONDON IS CHANGING. (in no particular order) ballet, hockey, great St James’s is to the general public. after-school clubs, gymnastics, etc. We As an area, we suffered from a lack of New browsers I work with the two asset teams in shaping The ease and efficiency of purchasing go to Glastonbury every year, tune out of representation in any media, traditional their strategy for new retail. I meet new is only going one way, but brands normal life and tune into the kaleidoscope or new: The first website was born. The website is easily navigated by those brands, and keep abreast of established are looking to enhance the shopping of music and culture of the festival. It brought together the myriad strands same core strengths – food, fashion, art, brands and the new ways we are shopping. experience too. Retailers are rethinking of St James’s life, presenting them in lifestyle – with new articles filling each how they place themselves, choosing newspaper format; story following story, section, including a fresh feature entitled stjameslondon.co.uk YOUNGER BRANDS SHARE OUR VALUES. spaces that reflect their brand and are @_stjameslondon great example on great example of what The Prize Draw, where you are able to facebook.com/stjameslondon more about being discovered. This Tim Webb is Retail Business Development makes this area special. subscribe to our monthly newsletter and instagram.com/stjameslondon There’s always an interest from means the network of side streets around Manger for St James’s and Regent Street portfolios at The Crown Estate. international brands in an established Regent Street St James’s are becoming thecrownestate.co.uk market like St James’s, but increasingly, increasingly important. @timwebbretail

26 27 Property

A1 Retail Offices 11 CHARLES II STREET Eleven Charles 21,000 SQ FT II Street and 39 JERMYN STREET CHARLES HOUSE Simon Tann 428 SQ FT 5–11 REGENT STREET Tel. +44 (0)20 7747 0141 Ground Floor ST JAMES’S [email protected] David Bannister FROM 3,644 SQ FT Project Tel. +44 (0)20 7290 4569 Ben Orton dbannister@ Simon Tann Tel. +44 (0)20 7747 0144 The Crown Estate is pleased nashbond.co.uk Tel. +44 (0)20 7747 0141 [email protected] to announce the completion [email protected] of 11 Charles II Street John Lyons Hunter Booth with 21,000 sq ft of Tel. +44 (0)20 7290 4583 Roger Holmes Tel. +44 (0)20 7399 5162 Grade A offices. Along jlyons@ Tel. +44 (0)20 7747 0140 [email protected] with new restaurant Milos nashbond.co.uk [email protected] at No.1 Regent Street, Philippa Lambert this completes the Matt Hyland SAMUEL HOUSE Tel. +44 (0)20 3147 1299 restoration of this beautiful Tel. +44 (0)20 7152 5280 6 ST ALBANS STREET [email protected] and historic building, which matthew.hyland@ 2,975 SQ FT incorporates a new artwork eur.cushwake.com Chris Valentine by Lola Lely as part of the George Reynolds Tel. +44 (0)20 7087 5362 Ground Floor Project. Laura Harvey Tel. +44 (0)20 7522 8524 [email protected] Tel. +44 (0)20 7152 5998 [email protected] laura.harvey@ eur.cushwake.com Julian Leech Tel. +44 (0)20 7522 8525 [email protected]

Guy Milne Tel. +44 (0)20 7318 5042 guy.milne@ struttandparker.com

Percy Clarke Tel. ++44 (0)20 7318 5019 To contact the percy.clarke@ St James’s team:

struttandparker.com Tel. +44 (0)20 7851 5000 Charles House Samuel House Eleven Charles II Street Eleven

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