Mountaineers Basic Alpine Climbing Course 2021 Student Handbook
Contents Introduc on 3
Gradua on Requirements 3 Class Mee ngs/Lectures 4 Field Trips 4 Basic Experience Climbs 5 Mountaineers Wilderness First Aid 5 Mountaineers Wilderness Naviga on 5 Stewardship and Low Impact Recrea on 5 Gradua on 6 Pending/Condi onal Gradua on 6 Extensions: Second Year Status 6
Physical condi oning 7
Clothing and equipment 7 Required Equipment Matrix 9
Seminars 9 Club Standards 10
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Mountaineers Basic Alpine Climbing Course 2021 Student Handbook
Introduc on Welcome to the Sea le Basic Alpine Climbing Course! The course is a combina on of classroom and field instruc on to equip you with the skills and experience required to safely climb most rock, snow and glaciated mountains in the Pacific Northwest. Once you graduate, you are eligible to par cipate in basic club climbs, alpine scrambles, and winter snowshoe trips. You are also eligible to apply for the intermediate climbing course (which teaches you how to lead climbs) and more specialized climbing courses.
To be successful and have fun, consider these ideas:
1. Don’t be afraid to ask ques ons or for help. Your instructors want you to succeed! 2. Get in the best shape you can. Being in the mountains is safer and much more fun when you’re not struggling to breathe while carrying a heavy pack over uneven terrain. Knowing you have the reserves to move faster in terrain that sees rockfall keeps everyone safer. 3. We are a volunteer-run club, not a guide service. See something you want to make be er? Offer to help fix it. Wish you had be er guidance on something? Get help figuring it out and write up something you can share with your peers (and future students!) 4. Comple ng Basic successfully will take more me than you think it will. You may look at the schedule and plan around it, but there will be all those extra prac ce nights, SIG events, suppor ng courses, more condi oners, etc. Set realis c expecta ons at home. You will be gone. A lot. Maybe even most weekends and some weekday evenings. 5. Climbs will get cancelled or turned around. Weather changes. Forest fires happen. Unexpected circumstances take place. There’s nothing you can do to change that. Accept it and move on. Learn what you can, and get on another waitlist. 6. Check and pack the day before. No ma er how exhausted, hungry, stressed or red you are. Make a packing list and adjust it through the season. Trying to find your headlamp at 2:45am so you can arrive mely at some Park & Ride at 3:30am is no fun.
(Thanks to Gunnar K for permission to use his wri ng)
Gradua on Requirements 1. A end all class mee ngs. These include: ● Five class mee ngs/lectures (Classes 1 & 2 were hosted in 2020 while the rest will be hosted in 2021 on Zoom) ● Seven field trips – some of which have a Pass/Fail outcome (Field Trips 1 and 2 were hosted in 2020. We encourage you to review and prac ce these skills with your SIG. The rest will be in-person and hosted in 2021 following the COVID guidelines) 2. Par cipa on in Google Classroom -- invita on will be shared via email. 3. Membership in a small instruc onal group (SIG) with its own mee ngs, ou ngs and prac ce sessions. 4. Complete in a safe and competent manner at least one rock and one glacier climb. Passing the fitness test is a prerequisite to ge ng on climbs. 5. Possess a valid Mountaineers Wilderness First Aid cer fica on when you apply to graduate. 6. Possess a valid Mountaineers Wilderness Naviga on cer fica on when you apply to graduate. 7. Possess the Low Impact Recrea on badge.
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Mountaineers Basic Alpine Climbing Course 2021 Student Handbook
8. Perform a qualifying stewardship service ac vity. 9. Complete and submit a gradua on applica on – see link on course page.
Class Mee ngs/Lectures Class mee ngs will feature speakers and presenta ons on a variety of climbing-related topics, as well as gear demonstra ons. Unless otherwise noted, these will be held from 7:00 – 9:00 PM at the Mountaineers Program Center. Please consult the course lis ng on the website for details including dates and required reading assignments.
● Lecture #0 - Meet & Greet (5-8pm) ● Lecture #1 - Course Introduc on, Top-rope Belay, Rope Ascending (Review Materials will be posted on Google Classroom) ● Lecture #2 - Rappel, Belays, Climbing & Anchors (Review Materials will be posted on Google Classroom) ● Lecture #3 - Alpine Rock (Zoom Session - March 3) ● Lecture #4 - Snow Travel, Avalanche (Zoom Session - March 31) ● Lecture #5 - Glacier Travel (Zoom Session - April 28)
Field Trips There are usually op ons for several different dates for each of the field trips (except for field trips with your SIG). You must successfully complete each field trip before progressing to the next. Field trips with an evalua on component have a Pass/Fail outcome.
● FT #1 : Top-rope Belay & Lowering, Rope Ascending (review and prac ce these skills with your SIG) ● FT #2 : Rappel, Belays, Belay Escape, Anchors (review and prac ce these skills with your SIG) ● FT #3 : Rock Skills Evalua on ● FT SIG Rock : Rock Climbing, Belay, Rappel, Anchors ● FT #4 : Snow Travel - Ice Axe and Crampons ● FT SIG Snow Overnight : Snow Anchors & Belays, Crevasse Rescue, Snow Camping, Roped Travel ● FT #5 : Crevasse Rescue Evalua on
Some ps for the Field Trips:
● If you have schedule constraints which limit your choices, register early while all the dates s ll have openings. ● If for some reason you cannot make any of the sessions, consult with your SIG leader as soon as you find out to see if someone can volunteer to organize a make-up session or have space to accommodate you on a different trip, especially if it is a SIG Rock or SIG Snow trip. ● Register for only one session at a me. You may register on the waitlist for another session you prefer, but please cancel your original registra on immediately if you get in. ● If you will be late or must cancel due to illness or other unforeseen circumstances, email, text, or call the Field Trip Leader. Contact info is in the website ac vity lis ng. ● Prepare for field trips like you would for a climb and be on me; if you come ill-prepared you may not be allowed to par cipate. ● Treat instructors and students with respect. If you feel that you are not being treated well or taught appropriately, please see the Area Leader or Field Trip Leader.
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Mountaineers Basic Alpine Climbing Course 2021 Student Handbook
● If you observe something that you believe is unsafe, immediately bring it to the a en on of the nearest Instructor. ● Bring food and water; these will be long days. O en there will be no official meal breaks, and you will have to eat and drink between ac vi es.
Basic Experience Climbs A er a ending all class mee ngs and successfully comple ng all field trips and evalua ons, you may sign up for actual basic experience climbs and begin applying your skills. There are three categories of basic climbs: Rock, Glacier, and Alpine. Basic Alpine climbs typically include sec ons of both rock and snow climbing but without sustained roped climbing in either. To graduate, you must complete two climbing trips in a sa sfactory manner - one of which must be rock, and one which must be glacier.
Many students find that they have to sign up for several trips (and waitlists) before achieving a successful summit. Climbs are very weather-dependent, and early season climbs especially (before July) are o en cancelled due to weather or unfavorable condi ons. It might also look like all climbs are full – so sign up for the waitlist lists! There is o en quite a bit of movement on the roster. A few days before the climb, email the leader(s) to let them know that you could be packed ready to go at the last minute – and then go if the opportunity arises!
Mountaineers Wilderness First Aid A current backcountry First Aid cer fica on is required for gradua on. The easiest way and what most students do is to take Wilderness First Aid (WFA) through the Mountaineers. The course consists of a weekend Wilderness First Aid course and an evening prac cal Scenarios session. See the mountaineers.org ac vity lis ngs for “First Aid”. Sessions are offered throughout the year but space is limited. Students who wait un l mid-season o en find they cannot get into an WFA session before the October gradua on. Get your first aid cer fica on ASAP.
Other more advanced cer fica ons may also sa sfy the first aid requirement - Wilderness First Responder (WFR), Wilderness EMT (WEMT) and Remote Medicine for Advanced Prac oners (RMAP) are accepted. You will need to supply a copy of a valid and current cer fica on; addi onally, you may need to complete a Wilderness First Aid evening Scenario session (at no cost) to receive the Wilderness First Aid badge. But do not wait un l the last minute to ask, in case your cer fica on does not sa sfy our requirements!
Front-country medical cer fica ons do not provide sufficient training to handle remote medical emergencies. Basic CPR, Red Cross First Aid, training as an M.D. or R.N. or equivalent do not meet the gradua on requirement.
Mountaineers Wilderness Naviga on Naviga on using map, compass and GPS is a cri cal mountaineering skill. You must have a naviga on badge before gradua on which you get by taking the Mountaineers naviga on course. The course includes two online components, one evening workshop, and one full-day field trip. Naviga on badges are valid for three years, so if you already have a current one (eg. fulfilling this requirement as part of the alpine scramble or snowshoe courses recently), you do not need to repeat the naviga on course.
Stewardship and Low Impact Recrea on The Mountaineers is the Northwest’s largest outdoor ac vity club. We have a great impact on the wilderness
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Mountaineers Basic Alpine Climbing Course 2021 Student Handbook environment we love and use, and we want it to be a posi ve one. As Mountaineers, it is important that we become stewards of the wilderness. This means using “Leave No Trace” travel and camping techniques and ac vely contribu ng our labor to environmental projects.
Toward this end, Basic Climbing students complete a day of volunteer stewardship as a gradua on requirement. The defini on is rather broad, so you may choose an ac vity that appeals to your interests and fits your schedule. Usually it is one day of volunteer physical labor, and preferably it will relate to places used by The Mountaineers. Typical ac vi es are trail work, habitat restora on, tree plan ng, or invasive species removal. Other types of ac vi es may be accepted. If you have a project in mind and your SIG leader is unsure if it qualifies, please contact b [email protected].
You can find stewardship ac vi es here : h ps://w ww.mountaineers.org/conserva on/stewardship Or contact the following organiza ons directly: ● Washington Trails Associa on: w ww.wta.org ● EarthCorps: w ww.earthcorps.org ● Mountains to Sound Greenway Trust: w ww.mtsgreenway.org ● Volunteers for Outdoor Washington: w ww.trailvolunteers.org ● Washington Wilderness Coali on: w ww.wawild.org
You can earn the Low Impact Recrea on badge by watching short videos created by the Mountaineers and taking an online quiz. These address topics such as camping on durable surfaces, management of human waste in different outdoor environments, on- and off-trail e que e and food management, including food storage techniques, avoiding microtrash, and not feeding wildlife.
Gradua on Submit your gradua on applica on as soon as you have completed all of the gradua on requirements. The gradua on ceremony, our annual Climbers Reunion, is typically scheduled in late October or early November. File your applica on by mid-October to ensure that you are recognized at the ceremony – it’s a fun event and you will want to be up front celebra ng with your classmates!
Pending/Condi onal Gradua on If you have completed all gradua on requirements except Wilderness First Aid, Naviga on and/or stewardship, go ahead and apply for gradua on, but note which of the three requirements you lack. You will be graduated condi onal upon comple on of those missing requirements, and you will be recognized at the Climbers Reunion. However, you may not par cipate in club ac vi es requiring basic graduate status un l all requirements are sa sfied. Pending graduates have seven months to complete everything.
Extensions: Second Year Status Basic Alpine Climbing is intended to be a one-year course, but can be completed in two years if circumstances require. Extension requests should be submi ed via gradua on form itself. Your applica on should state how far you have progressed in the Basic Course and why you could not finish this year. Specifically: ● How many of the field trips did you successfully complete?
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Mountaineers Basic Alpine Climbing Course 2021 Student Handbook
● If you summited any basic climbs, give the peak name, date, and leader's name for each. ● Have you completed first aid, naviga on and stewardship? ● What circumstances kept you from comple ng the course?
You may apply for an extension at any me when you realize you will be unable to finish the course, but the deadline is November 1st. We do not allow extensions beyond the second year. If you do get extended, you must complete Wilderness First Aid within seven months of the normal gradua on date for your class.
Physical condi oning You need not be a compe ve athlete or marathon runner to succeed in this course, but being in the best shape you can will increase your chance of success and maximize your enjoyment in the alpine. A climber in poor condi on may slow the party enough to prevent ever reaching the summit, or even jeopardize party safety. Inadequate condi oning also can contribute to a loss of alertness and an inability to respond properly to the demands of the environment.
You will learn far more during the climbs and field trips if you can focus your a en on on mastering technical skills taught in the course, rather than worrying about catching your breath. Expect to carry a 30 pound pack and cover 10 miles while gaining 4,000 feet of eleva on on day trips or a 40 pound pack and cover six miles per day, while gaining 3,000 feet on overnight trips.
You are required to pass a condi oning evalua on by the last scheduled field trip in May to be eligible to go out on real climbs. Climbing Condi oning Benchmark: At a minimum, be able to hike with a full day pack (greater of 25 pounds or 20% of body weight) up the Mt. Si trail (4 miles, 3400' gain) in under 2:00. Being able to do it twice is good prepara on for the more strenuous basic climbs.
The best condi oning for alpine climbing is hiking uphill with a loaded backpack. At least twice a month (working up to every week if possible), do hikes with significant eleva on gain. Gradually increase the amount of weight you carry in your pack, working up to at least your expected overnight pack weight. Helpful hint: load your pack with jugs of water - one gallon weighs 8 pounds and it doesn’t have to be carried on the way down. This should obviously be part of a more rounded condi oning program.
Clothing and equipment The following is a brief overview of required equipment. Your SIG leaders will also be a great resource for recommenda ons on equipment and local shops or online sources.
Climbing Helmets Your climbing helmet must be UIAA or CE approved. Bicycle, kayak, motorcycle, snowboard or other types of helmets are not acceptable because they are designed to specifica ons different from those needed by climbers.
Belay Device You will learn to belay with a fric on belay device and with the munter hitch. Each takes a specific piece of equipment. The munter hitch requires an oversized locking carabiner, a “pearbiner”. As for belay devices, there are plenty to choose from. Aperture devices such as the Black Diamond ATC and Petzl Verso are popular and
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Mountaineers Basic Alpine Climbing Course 2021 Student Handbook recommended.
Belay Gloves Specialized belay gloves are nice but costly. Any durable leather glove will serve; inexpensive work gloves are fine. Belay gloves are best carried clipped to your seat harness. If your gloves do not come with a achment loops, either punch holes in the cuffs or a ach small cord loops.
Seat Harness There are many seat harness designs available in climbing shops, and nearly all are acceptable for our class. You will be using your harness for both rock and glacier, so it should be designed for all types of climbing. A proper fit is cri cal. The harness must expand enough to fit over several layers of bulky clothing without binding, but when you have peeled down to t-shirt and gym shorts, it must be snug enough so you cannot fall out.
Comfort is important but there is a trade-off: padded models are easier on your body when hanging from the rope, but are rela vely heavy and bulky. Alpine style harnesses are made of unpadded nylon webbing, so are not as cushy, but lighter and less bulky in the pack. In alpine climbing, you will spend many more hours carrying the harness in your pack than hanging in it. Each type has its devotees; try on several. Also, be sure to familiarize yourself with the harness manufacturer’s instruc ons for fi ng and use. For general alpine climbing, it is convenient if your harness does not have fixed leg loops that you must step through because this is difficult with crampons.
Some climbers choose dedicated glacier harnesses for glacier climbs; these weigh less than an alpine or gym climbing harness.
Boots Get general alpine mountaineering boots s ff enough to accept crampons. These are not the same as hiking boots; they are much sturdier and have a less flexible sole. Try several brands to find the one that fits you best, and spend lots of me with the fi ng. Be fussy and take your me. If they don’t feel good in the store, they won’t get any be er on the trail.
Plas c boots and boots with completely rigid soles are great for glacier climbs, but not suitable as your only climbing footwear and are not required for the course.
Rock shoes are not needed for the basic course. Basic rock climbs are usually done in mountain boots, though rock shoes may occasionally be permi ed at the leader’s discre on.
Crampons Crampons must be suitable for alpine climbing. They may be aluminum or steel and have either 10 or 12 points, with the forward pair (the front points) protruding out in front of the boots. Select crampons a er buying your boots to be sure they fit well. They may be either step-in or strap-on. Step-in crampons require good welts and rigid soles. Strap-on crampons are more suitable for all kinds of boots and are a good choice for your first pair. Crampons with an -balling plates are strongly recommended.
Most students prefer aluminum front-point crampons (they are generally lighter even if less durable than steel).
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Mountaineers Basic Alpine Climbing Course 2021 Student Handbook
However, they are not suitable for high angle ice climbing, so if you go on to our Intermediate course you may have to rent or buy another set. Consider ren ng/borrowing crampons before buying.
Ice Axe Get help from an experienced climber when purchasing an ice axe. You want a general purpose alpine axe. Specialized ice climbing tools or super-light trekking axes are not suitable for this course. A length of 60 to 70 cen meters is right for most people, perhaps 75 cm for tall climbers who expect to do lots of glacier climbs. Buy spike and pick guards for safety when the axe is lashed to the back of the pack.
Packs You will need a backpack large enough to hold camping gear, food, clothing, and climbing equipment for a weekend. Generally this means something in the range of 50 – 75 liters, though you will see experienced climbers using 40-50 liter packs for overnight trips. Eventually you will also want a smaller pack for one-day climbs, but you can make do with just one large pack by choosing a model that cinches down smaller when only partly filled.
A good climbing pack has lots of external loops for lashing gear on the outside; it is especially important that you have a secure way to a ach your ice axe. There are many choices; be fussy about comfort. As with boots, no one pack is comfortable for all bodies. Some shops have rent-before-you-buy programs.
Sling (a/k/a Runner) & Prusik Material When purchasing the tubular webbing and perlon (non-stretchy synthe c cord, a/k/a accessory cord) ask that it be cut to exact length with the hot knife that climbing shops use – makes a nice neat end. For the runners, get three 5’ lengths, two 9’ lengths (or sewn runners) and one 8’ length which must be webbing. It is a good idea to get three different colors for the three different lengths. This helps you dis nguish between them when grabbing for a sling. You will need one addi onal 120cm sewn runner as your Personal Anchor System.
You may get sewn runners rather than lengths of webbing – see the equipment matrix. The trade-offs are that sewn runners are lighter and stronger but more expensive. Tied webbing runners are heavier but cheaper. Many alpine climbers carry at least a few ed webbing runners to leave behind or re e into a larger loop if needed.
The perlon for your four prusik loops may be either 5mm or 6mm. 6mm is stronger but 5mm grips be er and is adequate when used as a prusik loop. Opinions vary about which is preferable - perhaps a good discussion topic in your SIG.
Required Equipment Matrix See the course lis ng for a list of the items needed on a rock or glacier climb.
Seminars The Climbing Commi ee also offers seminars that are not part of the Basic Course but may be valuable adjuncts to your alpine educa on. Watch for them on mountaineers.org and the Climbing Highlights e-newsle er which all Basic students receive.
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Mountaineers Basic Alpine Climbing Course 2021 Student Handbook
The Climbing Code
Par cipants on all Mountaineers sponsored climbs must adhere to the climbing code:
● A climbing party of three is the minimum, unless adequate prearranged support is available. On crevassed glaciers, two rope teams are recommended. ● Carry the necessary clothing, food, and equipment. ● Rope up on all exposed places and for all glacier travel. Anchor all belays. ● Keep the party together, and obey the leader or majority rule. ● Never climb beyond your ability and knowledge. ● Never let judgment be overruled by desire when choosing the route or turning back. ● Leave the trip schedule with a responsible person. ● Follow the precepts of sound mountaineering as set forth in textbooks of recognized merit. ● Behave at all mes in a manner that will reflect favorably upon mountaineering and The Mountaineers.
Club Standards
All members of The Mountaineers, in order to a ain the club’s purposes—to explore, study, preserve and enjoy the natural beauty of Northwest America—in spirit of good fellowship shall subscribe to the following:
● To exercise personal responsibility and to conduct themselves on club ac vi es and premises in a manner that will not impair the safety of the party, or prevent the collec ve par cipa on and enjoyment of others. ● Private property must be respected. ● The use of alcohol and other drugs or medica ons, when incompa ble with The Mountaineers ac vi es because of their effects on ability and judgment, is prohibited when such use would affect the safety of the party or impair the collec ve par cipa on and enjoyment of others. ● To enter the outdoors as a visitor, leaving behind no debris, environmental scars, or other indica ons of their visit, which would reduce the enjoyment of those who follow. ● Pets, firearms, or any other items which will impair the safety or enjoyment of others shall not be brought on The Mountaineers premises or taken on club ac vi es. ● To obey those specific regula ons imposed by the Board of Trustees, Branches and Divisions of The Mountaineers, which are necessary to implement the above. ● To minimize the environmental impact on the outdoors by using campfires only in properly designated areas and ex nguishing them completely a er use; conduc ng human sanita on and washing away from watercourses; and carrying out all solid waste.
Members of The Mountaineers who deviate from this philosophy and from the specific club regula ons may be subject to disciplinary procedures of the club, including expulsion.
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