• THE NEXT STEPS • ENGAGE YOUNG CONSUMERS • VS SYNTHETICS

A leather international publication

In association with TFL Eco Solutions Leading technologies for the environment

www.tfl.com In association with Contents

Cover image: Natural . Courtesy of • THE NEXT STEPS Issue 1 Zenda Leather • ENGAGE YOUNG CONSUMERS • LEATHER VS SYNTHETICS

ADVISOR Advisor Michael Redwood [email protected]

EDITORIAL Editor Martin Ricker Tel: +44 (0) 20 8269 7787 [email protected] Editorial contributors Michael Redwood Andy Seawood Dietrich Tegtmeyer Richard Smith Juan Diego Casaretto Martin Ricker

A leather international publication SALES In association with Sales manager Jeremy Skinner Tel: +44 (0) 20 7936 6943 [email protected]

PRODUCTION AND DESIGN Designer Karen Townsend Production Lisa Busby West +44 (0)208 269 7927 [email protected]

Mission Statement To establish and enhance leather as an affordable premium material in the mind of consumers. To identify leather in terms of quality, luxury, performance and value for money – the purchase of an asset rather than a disposable item. To position leather as a durable and sustainable material that is a good material to use from 08 12 an environmental point of view.

To support all those making and using leather. To provide guidelines and support material to present leather as a premium quality and sustainable material. 04 Introduction 06 The next steps To assist the industry in avoiding leather becoming seen Michael Redwood, Advisor to Dr Dietrich Tegtmeyer of Lanxess as a commodity material or having its brand values debased by the use of incorrect claims or poor Leather Naturally! says that as the outlines the next steps for the environmental standards. campaign gathers momentum it is campaign and poses some Online and social media becoming a movement within the important questions that have to Further details can be found at leather supply chain. be considered. www.leathernaturally.org and can be followed on Twitter, Facebook and LinkedIn.

08 Leather needs a voice 10 Oxymorons Andy Seaward looks at what Richard Smith of fair organsiers Leather Naturally! should aim to APLF discusses how genuine achieve from the perspective of an leather should be promoted © Global Trade Media Ltd 2010 Global Trade Media 2010. All rights reserved. No part of international brand. compared with synthetic materials. this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system without the express prior written consent 12 The next generation 14 What leather do we want? of the publisher. The contents of Leather International are subject to reproduction in information storage and Juan Diego Casaretto of Zenda Martin Ricker of Leather retrieval systems. Leather North America says that International magazine asks what The paper used in this magazine is obtained from there is a need to engage and kind of leather should the industry manufacturers who operate within internationally recognised standards. The paper is made from Elementary promote leather to the younger ben making and how can we Chlorine Free (ECF) pulp, which is sourced from generation. promote natural leather to the sustainable, properly managed forestation. consumer.

Winter 2010/11 www.leathernaturally.org | LEATHER NATURALLY! 3 In association with Leather Naturally! | Introduction

Leather Naturally! A movement

Michael Redwood is Visiting Professor in Business Development in Leather, University of Northampton and Teaching Fellow, Marketing, University of Bath

Michael Redwood,

movement. A grass roots movement. That is perhaps textiles and high quality plastics have become really good – and the best description of Leather Naturally! In a way it have top-notch promotion. Ahas been bubbling for some decades. When Guy Reaks In all this jungle of conversation where has the leather was deeply involved in the International Council of Tanners he industry been? Sadly we have been silent. An old rule says it is used to turn up at major meetings and pull out a pair of ladies dangerous to engage in battle unless you are sure to win. Up tights to demonstrate a product where the makers had until now the leather industry has not had the solidarity among developed something that responded to consumer needs, which its stakeholders to see such a programme through. But now it did the job they were sold for perfectly, and were very perfectly seems to be different. marketed. From every continent and every sector and every part of the Why, he would argue, can other industries escape from supply chain Leather Naturally! has received support. There is being product obsessed while the leather industry remains in the will, there is the determination to redress the balance and its shell and fails to promote the features and benefits that are promote the one thing that ensures success. Our invaluable so important to such a wide range of consumers? Why can product. Leather. Leather Naturally! industries as varied as milk and wool successfully build Because Leather Naturally! has come from a groundswell it reputations for their products that resonate with customers and has moved quite far before the traditional industry keep their articles top of mind? organisations have become involved. Also support has come The answer was, of course, that we were too fragmented to from meat packers, global brands, trade fairs and chemical grapple a common issue. Protecting our patch by hunkering companies who do not fit within the current leather industry down was the strategy adopted. You could not say it was a structure. And if one suggestion for a payment structure based temporary tactic: it was the fundamental philosophy of whole on one or two cents a is generally adopted a lot of money swathes of the leather industry for decades. We need to protect is involved so the industry is nervous that this will be our corner; we do not have time or money to promote or even mishandled. defend the material that gives us our living. Discussions on structure and finance look likely to take But times have changed. We have come to live with a new another six months while all parties get comfortable. At the geographical order and we talk more of luxury and fashion moment the strongest support is for a full service international markets than we do of just sheepskin clothing leather or advertising agency to be hired and to report to one or two key vegetable tanned bellies. At last the industry has found a individuals working within or in conjunction with the common cause. International Council of Tanners. But these are early days. This is why Leather Naturally! has come from the grass Getting up to date market research data to identify attitudes, roots, from comments and feelings arising during meetings, the language to use, and the weak links in the purchase cycle is seminars and trade shows. Industry members at all levels also important. Most of all at this stage the idea is for Leather realised that we were watching how designers, brands, Naturally! to be as inclusive as possible. No one currently retailers and consumers use our products. In business parlance involved is seeking work or employment from the campaign; we have become much more market oriented, and in doing so activity to date has all been self-financed and voluntary. No have realised that we have a common cause. organisation has been given exclusive rights in any way and Yet our discussions with users have been bittersweet. ideas and suggestions for the way forward continue to be Consumers have a natural affinity with leather; understand it to sought. What does seem clear is that there exists enough be a versatile, beautiful, natural material. But some fashion committed support for a programme of activity to start in the schools will not teach leather as a material. Staff are concerned second half of 2011. Precise funding will decide its scale and about meat eating and what they have heard about processing nature. leather. Young people – our next generation of consumers – Leather Naturally! is not just another ‘initiative’; it is a have been brought up as city folk and do not have their parent’s movement. Leather is not just another commodity; it is a inborn understanding for natural materials. And technical unique, sustainable, versatile material.

4 LEATHER NATURALLY! | www.leathernaturally.org Winter 2010/11 Ensuring a healthy future.

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Leather Naturally! the next steps

Written by Dr Dietrich Tegtmeyer, Vice President, product development and application, Leather Business Unit, Lanxess

Dr Dietrich Tegtmeyer

lobal trends, such as increased urbanisation, where as genuine leather and what is a synthetic ‘non-leather’ more and more people will relocate and live in cities and substrate? This sounds easy and is an easy answer for grain G urban areas, in my view, will automatically lead to a leather, but what is our position, when it comes to split leather, higher consumption of many consumer goods including articles leather board based on recycled shavings, heavy coated leather, made from leather. I believe that the more synthetic surroundings etc. I am not in the position to give an answer right now, I just of people’s lives will create a greater demand for more natural raise the question and I believe that this needs to be answered products such as leather. This is, in principle, a positive up front. perspective for our industry! A natural product However, after searching the web and looking for general An article cannot be included within a campaign heading that comments about leather and the leather industry, the general uses the word ‘Naturally’, if the manufacturing process is not results of the search should alarm everybody in the industry and compatible with modern sustainability standards and not in those of us closely connected to the product. harmony with nature. The campaign should promote the There is a need to start a communication and promotion transition process to best available technologies, only a product, campaign for the material leather and this is being discussed which can be manufactured under sustainable conditions, should positively within the various national and international be called ‘Naturally’. associations and forums. I believe there is a common sense One umbrella approach being taken by many people across the supply chain I am convinced, that a campaign can only be successful, when it such as, tanners, chemical suppliers, meat packers, leather article works as an umbrella covering the entire industry supply chain producers etc. We have to change something. The leather that produces ‘leather’; regardless which operation is the industry has to do more when it comes to education and base for the transition of the hide into the leather. The campaign promotion of their final product as it used to in the past. I am should evenly support chrome tanning, vegetable tanning as well convinced that a professional campaign can help to stop the as all chrome-free technologies, if certain sustainability criteria deterioration of the image of leather and can maintain leather as are fulfilled. a highly valued article for decades to come. Full support The two main purposes of such a campaign in my opinion It needs to be a campaign in line and agreed upon with the would be as follows: interests of all leather associations, other initiatives and legal To respond in a professional way to all the false and incorrect bodies supporting our industry. Competition has to be avoided. information surrounding leather being a dirty business or a It should be not a one-off campaign and should become a material that uses harmful components. continuous promotion of leather, designed to meet the interests of To train consumers about the value of leather, especially the consumers from different continents, countries and regions. younger generations, who grow up in cities where they have Therefore we have to agree somehow on a continuous funding never even been in contact with agriculture or livestock! process, where all stakeholders within the industry give their fair In order to make a campaign successful, many things need to be contribution. addressed and managed properly from the beginning, and I The next steps would like to point out a few of them, while we are in the For such an ongoing organisation we need to think about a discussion phase of such a campaign: manageable set-up with clear roles and responsibilities, which guarantee a democratic involvement of all the interests of Campaign definition stakeholders and that manages the fundraising and spending of Before we can talk about a Leather Naturally! campaign. It needs the finances properly. to be clearly defined, what is covered under the definition Finally, I also feel that we should think of finding interested ‘leather’, and what is not. We have to be absolutely clear, where ‘VIP’ or celebrity sponsors/endorsers, known to the younger exactly is the boundary between an article, we still consider generation, who would support the campaign and give a positive being leather and another that is not. What would be considered spirit and image to articles made out of leather.

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&RQVLVWHQF\ 6WDUW WR )LQLVKΠIn association with Leather Naturally! | Voice for leather Realisation that leather needs a voice

Written by Andy Seaward, Materials Manager, Clarks International

Andy Seaward

hen I decided to attend the dinner in Shanghai to Apart from the aesthetic appeal of leather we have the W launch Leather Naturally! at the end of August 2010 it exciting work going on within the industry regarding was with some scepticism. Would this be another environmental issues. The work of the Leather Working Group is initiative that would come to nothing? Worse still would it be just a case in point, this needs to be publicised to the wider audience, a ‘talking shop’ with ultimately no end result? As I began to listen however we also need to keep our feet on the ground, we need to to the various speakers there was a dawning realisation that encourage area’s that need improvement. We should not hide there really was a need for a voice to be heard for leather. Not an away from these problem areas if we are to represent the leather aggressive anti NGO platform but a quietly thought through industry as a whole and need to understand everything, warts forum that could represent the various justified claims of the and all. leather industry. A positive approach rather than being caught on These are just a couple of reasons why I think the Leather the back foot and feeling we have to defend ourselves, but rather Naturally! concept makes good sense, representing leather in a a platform that could help educate people in the qualities of real positive way, not decrying synthetics, who have there place, be it leather. for technical reasons or for price. Synthetics and leather can live As someone who has been in the shoe trade for over 40 years together in harmony. and specifically involved with leather for the last 20 years, it is For the many companies who have leather as a core material easy to take leather for granted yourself and assume everyone the Leather Naturally! initiative will help to promote their else understands the unique qualities of leather, the handle, the products as premium using a material that has unique qualities; aesthetics, the smell and even the sound of a real veg tan leather. it is beautiful to handle and to look at, the Leather Naturally! But from my own experience people do not understand leather, initiative will for the first time project a positive image to the take for example variation in look or colour, this is a hot topic in public and I am sure it will prove a successful vehicle. many markets, however within sensible criteria I see variation as a positive not a negative and I find that when I have the time to have a discussion with customers on the reasons for the variation it is met with extreme interest and finally understanding that leather is indeed unique and should be looked upon in this way.

Leather in a key material for company’s like Clarks International

8 LEATHER NATURALLY! | www.leathernaturally.org Winter 2010/11

In association with Leather Naturally! | Non-leather materials

Oxymorons in the non-leather industry

By Richard Smith**

Richard Smith

n oxymoron is a phrase or figure of speech, which illustrates the importance and positive perception of leather in appears to make sense but contains an inherent the public’s mind. A contradiction. A couple of examples are ‘exact estimate’ In November 2010, Wolfgang Goerlich, President of the and ‘artificial grass’. An ‘estimate’ can never be ‘exact’ and Brazilian Center of the Tanning Industry (CICB), reminded us ‘grass’ cannot be ‘artificial’. However, such phrases are commonly about the application of the law in his country which was put on used in English and people incorrectly assume that they make the statute books in 2005. Article 8º of Law 11.211/05 states: ‘It is sense. Other examples are ‘plastic wood’ and ‘Astroturf’. prohibited to use the word leather and its derivatives to identify The oxymoron can also be found in the leather, or to be more raw materials and products not made from animal skins’. Hence, specific the non-leather industry. Currently there are many the oxymoron ‘synthetic leather’ is illegal in Brazil. materials, which can substitute leather in the manufacture of Goerlich who is also currently the President of the ICT bags and shoes, for example. These materials have their place in (International Council of Tanners) told me that this law, in spite of manufacturing but cannot be called leather. They are it having been sanctioned five years ago, has not been put into manufactured from petrol-based derivatives and have adopted practice and this is one of the problems, which concern the CICB. names to bring them closer to the material they compete with. In another episode concerning the misleading use of the word These materials came into existence with the advent of leather, the China Leather Industry Association (CLIA) has issued petroleum derivatives being manipulated to create Bakelite and a message of support for moves in the industry for consumer plastics in the 1930s. Technology has advanced to such an extent product labels to make a clearer distinction between genuine that more sophisticated materials have been manufactured to leather and synthetic alternatives. imitate and even replace natural or traditional materials which The Association said it had received a request from the formed part of everyday life. International Union of Leather Technicians and Chemists Such names range from pleather, synthetic leather, eco-leather, Societies (IULTCS) to make clearer the Chinese terms for the , simil leather (similcuero in Spanish) and bonded names of synthetic materials that misleadingly include the word leather to name the most obvious ones. All can be argued to be leather. A suggestion from the IULTCS was to use terms such as some form of oxymoron since they have little or nothing to do ‘synthetic material’ or ‘PU (polyurethane) material’ instead. with leather except in their applications. The only exception is (Information courtesy of leatherbiz.com). which could in reality be 30% leather shavings Since it may not be feasible to enforce artificial material bonded together by a petroleum derivative so it is not really manufacturers not to misuse the word leather in their product leather. All these products belong to the non-leather industry or, descriptions the Leather Naturally! initiative has a vital role to to put it another way, the artificial materials industry. play. The issue is not synthetic materials per se but the marketing The question is, why do these materials, if they are cheaper of them as leather. and more plentiful than leather, seek to imitate it? Such labels Leather Naturally! is an industry wide initiative, which is misrepresent leather and mislead the consumers who may gathering pace and support as the weeks go by. Its primary aims actually believe, as non-technicians, that synthetic leather are to defend the leather industry from wild allegations by animal actually exists. The use of the word ‘leather’ in what are rights NGO’s and the misrepresentation of synthetic materials essentially labels designed to mislead the public, is that materials being some form of leather. On a more proactive tack it aims to made from petrochemical derivatives want to masquerade as educate designers and manufacturers as well as youth and leather. Why is this so important for the manufacturers of these general public about the qualities and importance of leather as a non-leather products? beautiful and sustainable material, not to be confused with The answer is fairly simple. It is because the buying public synthetics such as PVC and PU. knows almost instinctively that quality leather means luxury, **Richard Smith is ex Commercial Manager of Leather beauty, elegance and sustainability. Thus, it is highly desirable to International magazine and currently marketing coordinator of ride on the back on these qualities when the genuine article is APLF fairs in Latin America. He writes on the future of the global not being offered and sells at a lower price. By inference it leather, footwear and leather goods industries.

10 LEATHER NATURALLY! | www.leathernaturally.org Winter 2010/11

In association with Leather Naturally! | Future consumers

Attracting the next generation

Written by Juan Diego Casaretto, Managing Director, Zenda Leather North America

Juan Diego Casaretto

ow can we attract younger consumers and help them is modern and at the same time classic, and that’s what makes understand the value of leather; its qualities and it appealing for all ages. H characteristics that make it such a unique, different and Leather is not an expense, but rather an investment that can valuable product? last a lifetime. For example, with reasonable care, the leather Before writing this editorial, apart from reading quite a bit and interior of your car will age beautifully with each passing day. thinking about how to address this issue, I did an informal survey Over time it doesn’t look like new, it looks better than new. – non-scientific – among young friends and former MBA Leather is a luxury easily obtained by young professionals that classmates located in different parts of the world. The goal was to carries with it a certain sense of status. In today’s world, find out what most young people know, and think about leather. dominated by technology, many are looking for ‘instant On one hand there is no doubt leather is associated with words gratification’ and it certainly satisfies that desire for many. like elegant, luxurious, stylish, premium and durable. On the other Leather is current and forward moving with new technologies. hand they think it is too expensive, that it scratches and gets Many of the perceptions young people have about leather; damaged easily making it hard to maintain. These misconceptions scratches, not easy to maintain and clean, are misconceptions are factors as to why they may opt not to purchase it. passed down from their parents or grandparents. We need to It caught my attention as I realised that none of them related explain that in the last 20 years, the advances on leather leather to a natural, and unique product. Rather than referring to finishing technologies have progressed very quickly in several leather as an investment, it was viewed as an expense by those aspects; giving solutions to issues seen in the past. polled. I have witnessed with admiration how Intel (supplier of an So, let’s talk about younger generations and how we can speak ‘unseen’ product for the majority of consumers) has built their their language. Young people tend to value brands, more so than brand to such a level that many customers feel comfort and other groups, especially if they are luxury products. Through confidence when they see the ‘Intel Inside’ label. brands they see a reflection of their desired lifestyle, their own It may not be easy for tanneries to replicate that, but definitely identity/personality and also a possible boost for their self-esteem. it is my dream for Zenda to grow our brand to be recognised In general they are the age group with a higher disposable income among the young consumer. So, that’s why I think the first and that allows them to indulge in giving in to luxuries. most important step is to work on the brand that glues us together: Leather®. If we are able to communicate the above Brand Leather points to our audience, we will definitely be on the right track. Leather®: This should be our starting point; we should work in We will avoid confusion that the younger generations face at the marketing the brand of our noble product, Leather®. There is point of sale with words commonly used by salesmen such as; already an advantage to our cause as brand awareness is without manmade leather, bonded leather, or that some ‘gurus’ categorise a doubt important among young individuals. leather as a commodity… As time goes by our guiding philosophy We need to understand our target audience, how they think will capture a loyal audience that will purchase more leather and value the product and accurately communicate to them our products. By having been better informed about leather our message in a clear and concise manner. consumers will be more willing to invest. Leather is a natural product. It is unique and there are The goal should be the same, but the ways and paths to different grades of leathers that can be made to fit into the advance in this area can be many, and very different depending fashion and luxury market. on the region of the world where those efforts are made. As an In nature only leather exists, there is no faux leather or example, in the US, celebrity endorsements are very effective. But synthetic leather. Regardless of the fact that these products are we should concentrate all our efforts on promoting leather as a manufactured with similar looks, we need to explain that only product that will stand the test of time, is versatile and at the leather is leather and the big differences between it and man- same time classic, natural and luxurious. In other words if we can made substitutes. change the perception of younger consumers to ‘leather is cool’ Leather is versatile, adaptable to different type of products. It we will have taken a gigantic step.

12 LEATHER NATURALLY! | www.leathernaturally.org Winter 2010/11 ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ GmbH & Co KG CHEMISCHE FABRIKEN

Max-Schwarz-Straße 3-5 · 56112 LAHNSTEIN / GERMANY · Tel. +49 (0) 26 21 / 12-173 · Fax +49 (0) 26 21 / 12-526 [email protected] · www.zschimmer-schwarz.com In association with Leather Naturally! | A natural material

What kind of leather do we want?

Written by Martin Ricker, Editor, Leather International magazine

Martin Ricker

ther writers in this supplement are asking the question; Sadly, upgrading poor raw materials usually means you end up what constitutes leather under the Leather Naturally! with a substrate that has lost much of its natural character. O banner? Are splits, leather board, bicast leather etc included? That is something that the stakeholders of this Technical specifications initiative will have to address. But I would like to make another A second reason why I feel leather can often be difficult to point, which I think has to be considered. distinguish from non-leather materials is due to the need to meet In my opinion this campaign should aim high and look to the every increasing technical specifications. I see this most often promote the very best of leather. All to often consumers have a in the mass-market white sports shoe and automotive upholstery real difficulty in being able to tell whether a product, be it a sofa, leather segments. hand bag, wallet or shoe upper is made from real leather or if it is All to often the upholstery leather in a typical car is so heavily made from a non-leather material. The problem, as I see it, is that finished it feels more like plastic than leather. The reason why it many products made today that are by international definitions feels that way is because car makers insist that their leather meet made from genuine leather but in reality are not easy to a plethora of technical specifications from fogging, abrasion, differentiate from non-leather materials. lightfastness, stain and scuff resistance etc, etc. Each new test Although I do not consider myself an ‘expert’, fifteen or so makes the leather less natural and more synthetic. years of work experience in the leather industry does mean that I Tanners and their chemical suppliers need find to solutions to know much more about leather than the average consumer. this problem and one of the objectives of Leather Naturally! However, I am often handed products from friends and family should be to educate the consumer that their car seats or shoe who ask; ‘Is it made from leather’? In many cases it is impossible uppers may have the odd natural defect such as a scar or scratch to tell unless you take a scalpel and cut through the cross-section mark and that is part of owning a natural material. and look at it under a microscope. Much of the leather made today is so heavily coated and ‘corrected’ that it is impossible to Consumers love leather separate from non-leather materials made to look like leather. Thankfully, most consumers still consider leather as a premium So what has caused this trend towards leather becoming a and sought after product. However, in their minds they think of more uniform but a less ‘natural’ material? the material as ‘natural’ like they do wood, wool etc. They like the feel, the smell, the way it wears and even the sound it makes. Natural defects Leather is a material many think gets better with age and wear. I Tanners have always complained that the overall quality of think consumers will accept leather with natural defects and with their raw materials is poor and that they would be happy to clever marketing may actually pay a premium for it. pay a premium for more first and second grade hides or skins. If the leather industry continues down a route where leather However, the reality is that raw material quality appears to be has to be defect free, uniform and highly coated then are we not getting worse rather than better in global terms. Raw materials just taking a natural raw material and turning it in something of the future look set to have more inherent defects such as synthetic and unnatural? scars, scratches, disease damage and defects caused by poor animal husbandry or butchering. It should be the reverse of It can be done this. Many companies that I know of around the world produce or buy Today, when the tanner is faced with a poor quality raw high volume leather that is able to reach end-use specifications material the tendency is to cover the defect with a filler, buff or yet maintain all the natural characteristics that are associated ‘correct’ the natural grain and cover with a finish to provide a with leather. As companies such as ECCO shoes and many others uniform grain surface. Embossing the surface with an ‘artificial’ have shown you can make a leather product that is reasonably grain completes the process. Patent effects, prints, foils and other priced, wears well and meets all the expectations of the customer. laminates are all used to ‘upgrade’ the low-grade raw material to It can be done and it is not something that is exclusive to makers something that is commercially uniform and sellable. of leather for only the high-end, international brands.

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