the guide. north-east victoria Matt Preston roams through Victoria’s Alpine Valleys, a picturesque region of historic towns and mountain vistas, with plenty to offer food-lovers. WORDS MATT PRESTON PHOTOGRAPHY MarK roPer Could this be Australia’s best food region? beechworth marsala sauce, or Port Lincoln jewfish with The locals shyly tell you it isn’t, but they’d peperonata. You’ll also find interesting be hard-pressed to name an area with as where to eat local and international wines in their store. many fine producers, great wines and Wardens Food & Wine 32 Ford St, Beechworth, (03) 5728 1377. notable restaurants. Drive from historic Chef Douglas Elder, who built a reputation Beechworth, past Myrtleford and Bright to at Villa Gusto in Buckland, has joined Rocco GiGi’s oF BeechWorth scenic Mount Beauty and visit them all, as and Lisa Esposito at Wardens. Rocco Aspirations are high since owner Alan you wind up the valleys into this hidden provides assured professionalism on the Parker arrived at this Beechworth stalwart corner of Victoria that bumps between the floor, while Douglas delivers dishes such as last year. After working at some of Noosa’s ski fields and the mighty Murray River. chargilled quail with fennel sausage and best places, he’s put a funky polish on 54 delicious. View from Myrtleford’s award-winning range restaurant. Clockwise from left: smoked trout with horseradish creme fraiche on grilled piadina at Gigi’s of Beechworth; the region’s rolling hills; peaceful Bouchon at Botanicals in Beechworth; banquette dining at Gigi’s; rocco Esposito of Beechworth’s Wardens Food & Wine; pumpkin, feta and thyme tortellini at waddington’s of Kergunyah, and its gardens; strawberry friands at Wardens. Gigi’s Italian dining room. Chef Megan the ox and hounds Ben Kraus’ brewing equipment. For Chalmers pays similar attention to dishes Cow Hill winery’s Katherine Sullivan and something heftier, try an ale-spiked pie, all such as spiced pigeon, rocket, truffle and Andrew Doyle opened this simple bistro washed down with Ben’s pale ale or a pear salad; or Angus sirloin with salsa with French leanings late last year. Start the longneck of his French-style country brew. verde butter and duck fat-roasted kipflers. weekend with croissants, come for lunch Tanswells Old Coach House, 50 Ford St, 69 Ford St, Beechworth, (03) 5728 2575. and enjoy oysters shucked to order, or opt Beechworth, (03) 5728 2703. for dinner with a bottle of their 2002 pinot, Bouchon at Botanicals the duck liver parfait and a tarte tatin made the Green shed Bistro The secluded garden tables and book-lined with apples from neighbouring Stanley. James Loveridge and Therese Shanley’s rooms feel a million miles from the seething 52 Ford St, Beechworth, (03) 5728 2123. casual restaurant is popular for its throng of Beechworth’s Goldfields-era no-nonsense manner, open fires and main drag. Try a croque monsieur, French BridGe road BreWers unpretentious food such as braised lamb tart, or anything with co-owner Barbara For something a little earthier, try Maria with polenta, or roast pork belly with a Sibley’s rhubarb chutney. 38 Ford St, Frischmann’s pretzels at this craft brewery. carrot, coriander and almond salad. Beechworth, (03) 5728 2455. Sit outside, or in the old coach house with 37 Camp St Beechworth, (03) 5728 2360. the guide. where to drink Other options include The Stone Cottage Plump harvest Produce At family-run Smith’s Vineyard (27 Croom (6 Tanswell St, Beechworth, 0411 324 797), This large, sleek cafe and sourdough bakery Ln, Beechworth, (03) 5728 2364), Sarah a cute one bed cottage set in a pretty garden, has well-made Illy coffee and sandwiches Smith and Will Flamsteed run a chic little priced from $160 per double. Or just out of for the steady stream of cyclists, but it’s cellar door where you’ll find a notable Beechworth, try Black Springs Bakery (464 Danielle Brooke’s pastry that really puts it chardy – the 2006 vintage is a cracker – and Wangaratta Rd, Beechworth, (03) 5728 on a pedestal. Go for elevenses, and then an elegant shiraz worth laying down. 2565, blackspringsbakery.com), a converted back for tea to indulge icannoli or a Pennyweight is a slightly ramshackle stone barn in Provence-style gardens that chocolate and hazelnut tart. Her raspberry old winery and cellar door with organic oozes country charm. It’s priced from $220 tart – sharp with fruit and rich from almond certification (Pennyweight Ln, Beechworth, per double, including breakfast provisions. paste – may be the best in the state. Great (03) 5728 1747). Here the Morris family has Alpine Rd, Myrtleford, (03) 5752 2257. created one of the region’s more notable MYRTLeFORD, BRIGHT pinot noirs, an excellent sherry and some AND SURROUNDS the Butter Factory very interesting fortifieds. Slow-foodie Naomi Ingleton and her mum, Tanswell’s Commercial Hotel (50 Ford where to eat Bronwyn, have turned this former butter St, Beechworth, (03) 5728 1480) used to be ranGe factory into a great cafe with a dedication Ned Kelly’s drinking hole, but it has a new Awarded two hats and Country Restaurant to local produce. Naomi brings in whole lease of life with Elizabeth Kraus in charge, of the Year by The Age Good Food Guide 2008, animals to break down, so pigs from while the wisteria-shrouded Stanley Pub the minimalist glass dining room at Range Wooragee may make pork and pistachio (1 Wallace St, Stanley, (03) 5728 6502) is also belies the excitement of the food exiting terrine, while Nug Nug kid is used in a worth the drive for its bar and beer garden. Michael Ryan’s kitchen. Local produce, tagine. At breakfast, try Black Range trout such as saltbush lamb, Murray Grey beef or with poached eggs, or baked eggs with where to shop Roberts Creek duck, shines. Co-owner chorizo, tomato and olives. They do dinner For local vegetables, fruit, nuts and saffron, Michael makes simple dishes sing, whether Thursday to Saturday, and yes, they churn see Pete at Goldfields Green Grocer (61 it’s his cleverly revised vitello tonnato with their own butter. 15 Myrtle St (Great Ford St, Beechworth, (03) 5728 2303). Or try air-dried tuna; or wild rabbit with peas and Alpine Rd), Myrtleford, (03) 5752 2300. The Beechworth Provender (18 Camp St, toasted orzo. 258 Great Alpine Rd, For simple French bistro fare, Poplar’s (03) 5728 2650), which has oils, jams, sauces Myrtleford, (03) 5752 2885. Restaurant (Shop 8, Star Rd, Bright, (03) and a selection of wines from vineyards 5755 1655) does the classics admirably well, without their own cellar doors, including siMone’s oF BriGht from a deeply flavoured French onion soup Castagna, Giaconda, Savaterre and Battely. Patrizia and George Simone’s warren of to impeccably light soufflés. For casual fish Visit the Beechworth Pantry (77 Ford St, dining rooms is another two-hat favourite and chips, eat in or take away at Roksalt Beechworth, (03) 5728 2456) for deli goods for George’s carefully chosen wine list, and (Shop 4, Camp St, Bright, (03) 5755 1515) – and slices of hazelnut meringue dacquoise the wonderful way Patrizia and son it may be far from the coast, but it’s good. with raspberries or plums. Anthony marry her Umbrian heritage with Keep an eye out for seasonal farm gate local game, wild greens, mushrooms and Food, Wine, Friends sales and roadside stalls, too. Head to nuts. Patrizia has an unrivalled nose for Teghan Ellis’ cafe is about the best place for Snowline Fruits (507 Stanley-Myrtleford produce so the antipasto is a must. Also try breakfast in Bright. While it’s hard to go Rd, Stanley, (03) 5728 6584) for apples, nuts, a pasta, then something earthy and past raisin toast from Milawa’s artisan apricots and berries, or High Grove autumnal – the signature braised goat bakery, you’ll also find the usual array of Orchards (Mt Stanley Rd, Stanley, (03) 5728 perhaps – but leave space for tiramisu. eggs – perhaps paired with Jim Jam Haz 6526) for berries and chestnuts. 98 Gavan St, Bright, (03) 5755 2266. Beans made in Stanley by tree-changing graphic designer, Steven Vandenbergh. where to stay Boynton’s FeathertoP Winery 6 Ireland St, Bright, (03) 5750 1312. 1860 luxury accommodation The arrival of Shaun McDougall from This log cabin was once a cattleman’s hut Range signals that Janelle and Kel Boynton Morrie’s ice creaMery until it was shipped to this quiet location. are serious about food at this modern cellar It may seem excessive to have ice cream for It‘s simple, elegant and comfortable with door, surrounded by terraced lawns. Try breakfast, even if Morrie’s does do flavours an open fire, double bath, king bed, kitchen global mezze – pancetta-wrapped Milawa like lemongrass and ginger, or wild river and verandah. From $245 per night (two- chicken breast, coconut-crumbed prawns plum made from freshly collected fruit. night minimum), including a breakfast or rare beef salad – with a Boynton’s pinot Instead, opt for a bacon and egg baguette, hamper. 4 Surrey Ln, Beechworth, 0408 gris, shiraz or pilsener. 6619 Great Alpine or waffles – with ice cream. 195 Great 273 783, 1860luxuryaccommodation.com. Rd, Porepunkah, (03) 5756 2356. Alpine Rd, Harrietville, (03) 5759 2612. 56 delicious. A selection of ceccanti Kiewa Valley wines. clockwise from below: pick your flavour at Morrie’s Ice creamery; sit by the fire at 1860 Luxury Accommodation; baked eggs with chorizo, tomato and olives at the butter Factory; organic winery Pennyweight; Pennyweight’s Frederick and emily Morris. delicious. 57 eco-friendly design at the buckland the guide.