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Home , Bagan, Etiquette in Myanmar, Hsinbyume Pagoda, Intha people, Kuthodaw Pagoda, Kyaikpun Buddha

MYANMAR The Insiders' Guide

There’s more to than hot air balloons and misty sunrises. Contents Overview Kyaiktiyo Contents Overview 3 32 Top 10 Experiences in Myanmar 3 33 Climate and Weather 6 34 Where to Stay 7 Getting Around 9 and Cuisine 11 Central Myanmar 35 Cultural Highlights 13 Bagan 36 and Faux Pas 16 38 Safety and Scams 17 District 39 Visa and Vaccinations 19 41

Yangon and Adventure in Myanmar 43 Bagan Southern Myanmar 20 Hiking and Cycling 44 Yangon 21 Caves 46 Bago 23 47 Hpa An 25 Beaches to Explore 27 Essential Insurance Tips 48 Adventure Our Contributors 50 Mandalay and See Our Other Guides 50 Northern Myanmar 29 Get a Quote 51 Mandalay 30

2 Welcome! Myanmar isn’t all about temples and sunsets. Hike to rural villages in Hsipaw, slurp delicious shan on the streets of Yangon, discover secluded beaches in the south, and crawl through limestone caves in Hpa An. Choose your method of transport wisely, and enjoy

Myanmar’s secrets while they’re… secret. Contents

Hsipaw Monywa Mandalay Our Pick of the Amarapura Top 10 Experiences Bagan Inwa Mrauk U Inle Lake

in Myanmar Overview Naypyidaw

Witness a Bagan sunrise hefty price-tag, there Watching the sunrise over the temples are plenty of temples

of Bagan is a highlight for most travelers, that offer stunning Bago but there are two ways to do this. Either vantage points, and Yangon Hpa An

you choose to take the luxury method can be conveniently Yangon of a hot air balloon ride, or watch from reached by e-bike (US the top of a temple. $5–$10/day). If you’ve got your heart set on ballooning, know that it’s pricey – Cruise along the around US $300 – and needs to be Mandalay booked well in advance. Balloon rides Trade the hustle and bustle of also only occur between October– sightseeing on land for a leisurely boat March. For those who travel outside ride upriver from Bagan to Mandalay. of this period, or can’t quite afford the Cruising this route may not seem like the most obvious choice – buses make the trip in six hours, compared to 12 on the river – but it’s the best way to Bagan discover rural life along the river banks. If you’ve Many boats make afternoon stops at riverside villages, like Yandabo, an got your historic town known for pots and other heart set on goods made of river clay. From the ballooning, Adventure deck, see kids playing and bathing in know that the river, farmers tending their fields, it’s pricey – and fishermen reeling in their catch-of- around US Bagan

Pete Rojwongsuriya the-day. $300.

3 Chasing waterfalls and hot springs in Hsipaw Set at the foot of snow-capped mountains and alongside the Duthawadi River in northern Myanmar, take a hike through paddies to find ancient payas, natural hot springs, and rushing waterfalls in Hsipaw. Contents Ask your guesthouse owner for a map, and take an easy two-hour hike through the jungle to find Nam Tuk waterfall – a moss-covered cliff, towering over a bubbling pool below.

There are a few hot springs around Overview Hsipaw that are an easy day-hike from the center of town. If you go there

late in the afternoon or early morning, Will Hatton you’ll meet locals who are often relaxing in the warm water. check out. A highlight is Sutaungpyei

pagoda on top, which has several Yangon Meet the one-legged Dotting lookouts where you’ll be rewarded fishermen on Inle Lake Inle Lake with panoramic views. If you’re chasing Dotting Inle Lake are the famous one- are the sunsets in Myanmar, this is a spot to legged fishermen, who steer their famous add to the list. boats by wrapping one leg around the one-legged Mandalay oar. Their impressive balancing skills fishermen, Trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake will leave you wanting to sign up for a who steer If bucket showers and squat toilets yoga class. Enjoy their catch-of-the-day their boats aren’t your thing, skip this multi-day- at one of the stilt-restaurants that rise by wrapping trek. Still got your attention? Great. above the lake. one leg A trek to Inle Lake from Kalaw will around put you in the heart of Myanmar’s Take a hike up the oar. wilderness, and take you back to basics. Bagan Walking up Mandalay Hill will take Heading west out of Inle Lake, you about 30-45 minutes, without can trek directly to the former British stopping. If you choose to walk, keep Hill Station of Kalaw. While this trek an eye out for snakes – especially after has become popular, there’s a chance dark. If you’re not a fan of working up you won’t see any other tourists on the Adventure a sweat, get your driver to take you to path. Hire an English-speaking guide the top. who’ll be able to translate for you once This popular site has you reach the Pa’O, Palaung, Taungthu, several and to and Danu villages.

4 Food in Yangon There’s also a lot of skewered meat to General try on most street corners. Accompany Cost Guide a stick of pork, chicken, fish, or shrimp It’s not difficult to with a small curry, and you’ve got explore Myanmar on a budget, but yourself a cheap and delicious meal. you should still be Always check the stall before you savvy with your order, making sure cooking surfaces cash. are clean. Remember, the busy stalls Street food in a Contents are always your best option – the locals small town: US $1 know best. Street food in larger cities: Long journeys equal big US $2-$3

Explore Sadan Cave in Hpa An rewards on Myanmar’s coast Western dinner:

Hidden away in the mountains around Take a 16-hour bus from Yangon to US $10-$15 Overview

Hpa An are several impressive caves, to escape the tourist trail and Dormitory bed: which can be easily explored over two kick back in tropical Myanmar. To reach US $20/night days. The most remarkable of these is truly untouched beaches and fishing Private room in the colossal Sadan Cave. It spans the villages, you’ll want to rent a motorbike a hostel: US $30-$40 entire underside of the mountain, and to explore the Dawei peninsula. Take Luxury takes you right through to the other the journey (1.5 – 3 hours from Dawei) Yangon accommodation: side via a network of dimly-lit tunnels to reach Grandfather’s, Sin Htauk, and US $100/night and cavernous chambers filled with beach. One-way bus depictions of Buddha. ticket for a 6-8 On the far side, you’ll discover a secret Get a super-soaker and hour journey: US $15-$20 lake covered in water lilies, where a small experience Water Mandalay wooden canoe will take you back under Festival Long distance trains: the mountain. Myanmar’s answer to ’s US $15-$25 Songkran Water Festival, the Thingyan ATMs are readily Sample Water Festival is held during Burmese available in major on the streets New Year (usually around mid-April) and cities and tourist Hands-down, Yangon is the best place to is a major Buddhist celebration in the towns, although functionality Bagan try street food. With so much to choose country. cannot be relied from, you can eat on the curb every day The festival is basically a massive upon 100%. It’s a for a year and still have more to try. Be water fight, where people throw water good idea to carry back-up funds, sure to try the south-Indian-inspired at each other from any vessels they can and attempt sandwich, the tasty quail egg find. Some use super soakers, some use withdrawals in snack lin ma yar, and classic shan pots from the kitchen, and others have advance. Adventure noodles. Finish off a day of food delights massive water cannons! It’s easy to join If you want to use with a sticky-rice and shaved coconut. In in the fun – you can hit the streets with US dollars, bills will need to be in Mandalay, don’t miss mont , which is your water-weapon of choice, and start pristine condition. thick with chickpea flour. soaking everyone you see.

5 Climate & Weather The best time to visit Myanmar is between November–April when it’s sunny, dry, and cooler – but most importantly, it’s festival Contents season. Before you pick a time to go, keep in mind the balloons over Bagan only fly between October–April. If this

is on your bucket list, you’ll Overview need to plan accordingly.

Buddhist shrine

Cool season ImagesSpaces During the cool season November– February the climate offers warm This isn’t actually all that bad, as you’ll

temperatures with relatively dry air. still have a few dry days here and Yangon Just remember this is peak tourist there, less crowds, and much lower season, so expect larger crowds and prices. Trekking, however, can be hit higher prices for accommodation. and miss during monsoon season, Always book in advance: don’t leave it with the rain often turning the muddy to chance! paths into slip-and-slides. Mandalay

Hot season It’ll be hot between March–May, with Book a Trip to Suit Your Style temperatures reaching 85ºF (30ºC). Where to go for adventure Multi-day treks offered from Kalaw to Inle Lake are sure to satisfy This is still a great time to travel if you adventure junkies. Although a fairly easy trek, the views offered and can stand the heat – as there’s less authentic experiences at the homestays will make it all worth the chance of rainfall. Choosing to travel in blisters. For a more off-the-beaten-track experience, Hsipaw and Hpa Bagan An also offer unreal trekking adventures and otherworldly views. the hot season just means you’ll need to pack appropriate, quick-dry clothing, Where to go for spirituality There’s no shortage of spirituality in Myanmar, but the Shwedagon stay hydrated, and use plenty of insect Pagoda in Yangon has got to be one of the most impressive and repellent. spiritually uplifting places of religious importance. Adventure Where to go for history Monsoon season With over 2,000 temples and pagodas on the Bagan plains, and the If you choose to travel during remains of over 10,000 temples and monasteries built between the 11th and 13th centuries, a trip to Bagan will no doubt be in order monsoon season, June–October, for anyone that loves a bit of history. expect there to be plenty of rainfall.

6 Where to Stay Once upon a time, there was a shortage on accommodation, but now there’s a range of options to suit every budget from backpackers to luxury Contents vacationers and everything in- between.

Hostels and guesthouses

Hostels and guesthouses are a great Overview place to socialize and meet like- minded people from all over the Pan Pet, Kayan State globe. Myanmar doesn’t have a huge backpacker hostel scene, but it’s definitely growing – especially in Bagan, stopping at ethnic minority villages, or

Inle Lake, and Yangon. opting for a cultural experience with a Yangon You can snag a dorm bed for as little local family instead of the hostel crowd. Homestays as US $5 – however, this can rise to US But, is a homestay right for you? are an $15 in high season, especially if you want The accommodation and facilities important a room with air-conditioning. Hostels are usually pretty basic in homestays. source of predominantly cater for foreigners, so You’ll either sleep on a bamboo mat income Mandalay you don’t have to worry about squat with a mosquito net, or a thin mattress for locals toilets, or using the bum gun (bidet). with no mosquito net. You share the looking to Guesthouses are usually just as social bathroom, and could potentially have preserve as hostels. If you’re traveling with a to bathe with a bucket of water, rather their way of buddy, it’s often cheaper or around the than an actual shower. life, instead same price to get a private room. You'll Homestays are an important of moving find a double-fan room with shared source of income for locals looking to the cities Bagan bathroom facilities for as little as US $10. to preserve their way of life, instead in search of The majority of guesthouses and of moving to the cities in search of work. hostels are pretty basic, so don’t expect work. Don’t let the lack of modern hot water, 24-hour electricity, or Wi-Fi facilities deceive you. It’s a rewarding everywhere you go. experience. They’re a particularly great Adventure option as the money goes directly Homestays to the local family, rather than a big The majority of travelers experience a corporation owned by the ethically- homestay in Myanmar while trekking, questionable government.

7 Key Burmese Phrases Master these Burmese phrases to impress the locals you meet while traveling around Myanmar.

Hello/Goodbye: Contents Mingalaba My name is___ (male): Ja nor na meh ___ ba My name is ___ (female): Ja ma Overview Bungalow on Inle Lake nau na meh ___ ba What’s your name? Nah meh Hotels lack of common areas for socializing. be lou kor d’le Budget hotels start from US $10, Alternatively, AirBnB is starting to How are you? Neh but you can find a decent hotel with catch on in Myanmar, and it provides a kaun la?

lovely modern amenities and facilities great opportunity to find high quality I’m well: Neh kaun Yangon ba deh from US $20. apartments at a decent price. Thank you: Cezu tin Check online for the best deals. ba deh You might find that hotels are more Free accommodation Sorry: Wun neh expensive when you walk in and and camping bad eh book a room at the reception desk. If you’re trying to save money on

Please: Kyeizu Mandalay Sometimes, it’s worth the extra few accommodation, you can sleep pyu yue dollars for a little more comfort, for free at Buddhist monasteries. Yes: Ho de especially if there’s a pool! The major You’ll be sleeping on the hard No: Ma hob u downfall with staying at a hotel is the floor, and have little security for Help: Keh ba your belongings – but it’s a unique Where is the experience waking up to Buddhist bathroom? Ein tha

be ma shit ha le? Bagan prayers and chanting. If your travel May I take a partner is of the opposite sex, you’ll photograph? Da have to follow and poun yai lo ya mala? sleep in separate rooms. How much? Be lau Camping is illegal in Myanmar. le? Some trekking tours offer camping Very expensive: Adventure within their packages. If you do Zei mya de choose these packages and go Can you reduce the price? Nae nae camping, your insurance won’t cover htat shot pay par oo

Will Hatton you, as illegal activities are excluded.

8 Getting Around Getting from A to B in Myanmar might prove to be a trickier task than expected. First thing’s first: don’t underestimate long Contents distances or the language barriers you’ll face. While the locals will always be happy to help out, these distances can be massive – and if you’re Overview traveling on a budget, you might be limited to local Yangon transport or hitchhiking.

a place to charge your phone, and the

Bus travel ticket includes a pillow, blanket, snack, Yangon Trains aren’t Public buses are great for exploring and water bottle. just a great cities like Yangon and are dirt cheap. If We’d recommend paying an extra way to get you can figure out the public transport few dollars (US $2-$3), and traveling by system, you’ll save a heap of money on long distance VIP bus – as opposed to around, getting around. the local bus. they also Mandalay Long distance VIP buses are make for an probably the most comfortable mode Trains enjoyable, of long distance transport. They are Trains aren’t just a great way to scenic ride. air-conditioned, have reclining seats, get around, they also make for an enjoyable, scenic ride. You’ll pass through so many rural areas, so be sure to get yourself the window seat. Bagan Of course, this all depends on what type of train you’re on. All personal space goes out the window in lower class. You’ll share a hard wooden bench with the locals, Adventure which can become very crowded. However, it has its rewards. You’ll get to know your neighbor very well on Yangon train station long journeys, and may pick up a few

9 A Cheap and Nasty Bus Trip from Mrauk U to Bagan I tried to save a couple of bucks traveling from Mrauk U to Bagan, and it backfired big Contents time. I was stuck on a bus with no reclining seats, air- conditioning, or legroom, traveling along a bumpy dirt

road through the Overview Mountains for 11 hours.

Myeik It was 104ºF (40ºC) outside and the windows were tips of what to see and do. e-bike to explore the temples. You’re open, filling the bus with dusty Upper class is only a couple supposed to bring the bikes back at Yangon air and blinding of dollars more, and far more night, but if you tell them you’re into my eyes. I was comfortable with reclining seats. astrophotography you might be able breathing in dirt, While you won’t get the same local to score a 24-hour rate – leaving you and sweating something fierce, experience as you would in lower class, free to head out into the wild on an as they crowded it’s definitely the better option for overnight adventure with your bike. more and more Mandalay longer journeys. people onto the already full bus. Taxis A long distance bus Scooters and motorbikes Taxis are reasonably cheap in Myanmar, is uncomfortable Probably the best way to explore the however travelers are often scammed enough, there’s no south of Myanmar is by motorbike. in tourist hot-spots like Bagan. To need to torture Rent a bike in Dawei to explore avoid getting scammed, always ask the yourself like this

just to save a Bagan untouched beaches like Po Kyauk. driver to use the meter, or agree on a couple of kyat.

You’ll pass through remote villages and price before taking a seat. – Will Hatton, see kids running to the road waving, The Broke Backpacker screaming mingalaba (hello). Just Boats make sure you’re properly licenced at Boats are only available in peak season, home and in Myanmar. If you’re not, however most short-distance ferries Adventure and you have an accident, your travel are available year-round. The slow boat insurance won’t be able help with your from Mandalay to Bagan is well worth medical bills. catching, and it is probably the most In Bagan, it’s a good idea to rent an interesting way to do the journey.

10 Cuisine Burmese cuisine may not have struck the international food scene yet, but that doesn’t mean foodies can’t rejoice at the plethora of taste-bud-tingling options to try in Myanmar. Contents

Street Food Street food is a big part of the food scene in Myanmar, and meals on the curbside are not to be missed.

Always take a look at the stall Overview before you order and check the cooking surfaces to make sure they’re Fiveday Market, Inle Lake clean. Keep your eyes peeled for busy food stalls – the locals know the best spots to eat! among backpackers in Myanmar. It’s

In Yangon, make sure you try the cheap, delicious, and filling. The dish Yangon south-Indian-inspired dosa sandwich, consists of thick, round rice noodles, the tasty quail egg snack mont lin ma topped with chicken, fish cake patties, yar, and classic shan noodles. bean sprouts, with a sliced hard-boiled In Mandalay, don’t miss , egg on top. which are thick rice noodles with Mandalay chickpea flour. There’re a lot of skewered meats to try on most street This is typically a dish, but corners. you might be able to hunt one down

Curries There are so many different types of Best Locations to Try… Bagan curry in Myanmar that you could order Seafood curry: Check out the Green Elephant Restaurant in Bagan a different curry every day, and each for delicious and spicy curries of all sorts – their seafood curry is to will have a unique flavor and spice to die for. There are also locations in Yangon and Mandalay. it. Add a different protein (fish, egg, Street food: Yangon is the best place to try street food. With so shrimp, pork, chicken, mutton) and much to choose from, you can eat on the curb every day for a year, and still have more places to try. you’ll have enough combinations to Adventure Kay kyi hnyat: This dish is best tried in the south of Myanmar. If you outlast your 30-day tourist visa. love , you’ll love the Burmese version too.

Dessert: Be sure to finish off a day of food delights with a tasty Nangyi thoke sticky rice with shaved coconut in Yangon. This dry dish is a favorite

11 You really can’t go wrong with a nice slab of pork, chicken,

fish, or Contents shrimp on a stick! Overview Pete Rojwongsuriya for lunch or dinner. It’s basically a on a stick! Accompany it with some hearty made with rice noodles, rice and a small curry, and you’ve got

a spice-and-herb-based , and yourself a cheap and delicious meal. Yangon often finished off with crisp banana tree pith. Flavors of Myanmar Kat kyi hnyat The flavors in Myanmar’s diverse dishes have been influenced by many different cultures, including Chinese, Mon, Shan, Thai, The Burmese version of pad Thai, this and Indian. The ingredients used in Burmese cooking are often Mandalay tasty rice noodle dish is typically found highlighted in a way that showcases one ingredient, while mixing in the southern coastal areas of the others to form a well-rounded flavor profile. country. It’s made with a variety of There are plenty of spices in Burmese cuisine that combine to make meats, seafoods, raw bean sprouts, amazing flavors. Many are typical Indian spices like curry, mint, and chili, but you’ll also taste pickled tealeaves, , and kaffir lime. beans, and fried eggs. One unique flavor that may stand out to those not used to it is . This is a salty, fermented fish or shrimp paste, used in everything from Bagan Burmese and to condiments and main courses. Ngapi is considered Biryani is a rice dish that finds its the cornerstone of Burmese cuisine, and although it may not sound very appetizing to a western palate, when added with other spices roots in , but the Burmese have and ingredients, it truly enhances the dish (think in a Pad perfected their own version using Thai). tasty , as well as the typical Dishes are typically served with some sort of starch, and, more often Adventure veggies, spices, and meats. than not, this will be either rice or rice noodles – which is no surprise, given that Myanmar is the sixth largest producer of rice in the world. Meat on a skewer The more Indian-influenced dishes may have bread as the You really can’t go wrong with a nice starch,like aloo (puffed bread with potato), which is typically served with curry. slab of pork, chicken, fish, or shrimp

12 Cultural Highlights

Get a dose of culture at one of Myanmar’s vibrant festivals, see traditional life in rural

villages, and experience age- Contents old religious practices at one of many pagodas or temples throughout the country.

Festivals Overview Thadidyut Festival of Lights takes place during full moon in the month balloon festival of Thadingyut (October), and marks the end of Buddhist Lent (). At this time, the country is at its wettest, candles, lights, and oil lamps – bringing

the rivers are at their fullest, and to life many pagodas, monasteries, and Yangon Myanmar’s they celebrate a bounty of harvest, banyon trees throughout the country. fresh water, and the coming of cooler During the festival, travelers can answer to weather. witness zat pwes (Burmese musicals) Thailand's The Thadingyut Festival is known and free stage plays on streets across Songkran as “The Festival of Lights” because it the country. You may hear some Water Mandalay celebrates Buddha’s return to Earth firecrackers going off while you walk Festival, the from the heavens. To symbolize the around the streets sampling street Thingyan enlightening power and radiance of food, and being entertained by the Water Buddha, the Burmese light millions of spectacle – both on the stages and in Festival is the streets. held during The Thadidyuy Festival is best seen in Burmese larger cities like Mandalay and Yangon, New Year. Bagan but you can also witness quieter versions in small villages, as the entire country celebrates. Myanmar’s answer to Thailand's Songkran Water Festival, the Thingyan Adventure Water Festival is held during Burmese New Year (usually around mid- April), and is another major Buddhist Thingyan Water Festival celebration in the country. This time,

13 the water is meant to cleanse the soul from sins, and from the second day onward, it’s complete mayhem. The festival is basically a huge water fight, where participants throw water at each other from any vessels they can find. Some use super soakers, some use pots from their kitchen, and others Contents have massive water cannons! It’s easy to join in the fun – you can hit the streets with your water-weapon of choice, and start soaking everyone you see. If you can make it, try to be in

Yangon or Bagan during April. Overview

Pagoda festivals Phaung Daw Oo There are well over a dozen Pagoda Festivals held at different times at different pagodas (holy places of in Yangon each The World-

Buddhist worship) throughout the year. The event takes place in March Famous Yangon country. Some of these celebrations (Tabaung) every year. Thousands of Burmese Beautifying continue for more than 20 days, and candles are lit, and the city comes alive Balm pilgrims from all over the country travel at night. Travelers can join the crowds Thanaka is a long and difficult journeys to attend and enjoy the incredible ambiance yellowish-white them. throughout Yangon. paste made from the ground bark Mandalay The Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Festival of a Thanaka tree. is one of the largest of its kind in Local tribes It's been used by Myanmar, and it takes place on Inle Traveling or trekking to remote villages Burmese women Lake. Spectators can cheer on boats and meeting local ethnic groups is a (and many boys and young men) full of men and women who showcase great cultural experience, and Myanmar since the 14th the incredible feat of balance of is hands-down the best country in century. It’s applied traditional one-legged rowing. Images Southeast to meet with tribes that in various designs Bagan on the face, from of Buddha are placed in an incredibly still live a traditional existence. circular patches ornate, gilded vessel, and are paraded In recent years, ethnic minority on each cheek, to around the lake by a series of long groups in Myanmar have been struggling more ornate, leaf- boats manned by countless one-legged to protect their culture. Sustainable shaped patterns. This cooling paste Adventure rowers. can play a huge role, by provides protection If rowing competitions and parades helping to protect a tribe’s identity and, from sunburn, on Inle Lake aren’t your thing, hopefully, future initiatives will enable and is said to have various beautifying consider checking out the Shwedagon the people of Myanmar to benefit from properties. Pagoda Festival, which is held at the the influx of tourist dollars.

14 of tourism, it’s recommended visiting The Karen , Bagan these communities in small groups. People, Don’t bring foreign items like alcohol, Between Myanmar & cosmetics, and energy drinks with you Thailand into the villages. live between Myanmar Monasteries and temples and Thailand in small mountain Bagan is the largest archaeological villages. The Contents zone in Myanmar, home to over 2,200 long neck Karen temples, pagodas, and ruins. Rent women, known as an e-bike for the day to explore the Padaung, attract tourists from thousands of temples scattered across around the world. The are a large ethnic the plains. Women stack their group in Myanmar, and they live in The shimmering gold Shwedagon neck with brass Overview rings, which give remote areas close to the Indian and Pagoda is undoubtedly one of the the long-neck Bangladeshi border. The H’mong most iconic sights in Myanmar. While illusion. people are known for their beautiful you’re in Yangon, visit Botataung Karen mythology textiles and weaving, and are in the Pu Pagoda overlooking the Yangon River, claims the tradition Dao region. The tribe, or sea Chaukhtatgyi Buddha Temple to see a arose to prevent tigers from biting gypsies, in the Mergui Archipelago are giant 66m , and check Yangon their necks! This no doubt one of the most fascinating out Buangdawgyoke Pagoda – the sadly has given rise cultures in Myanmar – unfortunately snake temple. This fascinating, lesser- to ‘long neck zoos’. their way of life is under threat, known temple is home to about 50 When visiting tribal with the government attempting to massive Burmese pythons. groups, use your gut – if something assimilate their culture into society. In Mandalay, Kuthadow Pagoda is

feels wrong, it Mandalay The are one of the largest known as the world’s largest book, with probably is. You ethnic groups in Myanmar, however 729 inscribed marble slabs of Buddhist should aim to meet tribal groups much of the is still restricted teachings. The Shwenandaw on their terms, in due to ongoing conflict between tribal is made of finely-carved teak wood, their villages, and groups and government forces. Karen located next to the Mandalay Royal in a manner where people live between Myanmar and Palace. It’s also on the same grounds they will directly

benefit from any Bagan Thailand in small mountain villages. as the Atumashi Monastery, which is money exchanging The long neck Karen women, known as bursting with intricate woodcarvings. hands. Padaung, attract tourists from around Venturing beyond the major cities, the world. a trip to Hpa An would be incomplete When you visit Myanmar, it’s without visiting the Bayin Nyi Monastery. extremely important that you try to It has its own natural hot spring, and was Adventure engage in ethical tourism, and, if you built into a cave. If you go to Mrauk U, choose to visit tribal groups, please do find Kothaung – the temple of 90,000 so in a responsible way. To reduce the Buddha images, Shitte-thuang, and environmental and cultural impacts Htukkanthein Temple.

15 Etiquette you’re visiting rural communities, not Public taking a beach holiday – so leave some displays of & Faux Pas things to the imagination. affection Affection between After years of political isolation, Photography etiquette loved ones should the presence of foreigners can only be shared in The locals are extremely curious about private. You’ll even still fascinate and occasionally foreigners, so don’t be surprised if you see trains displaying offend the locals, as their have a line of locals wanting to take signs that read, “No kissing”. Contents prominent Buddhist beliefs are photos with you, and claim you on challenged by travelers who Facebook as ‘my new friend!’ Even the didn’t quite get the memo on play tourist at popular sites, taking these etiquette tips… photos of one another on their phones. There are plenty of insta-worthy

Etiquette in the homestay locations in Myanmar, and you’ll definitely Overview Although the thin mattress on the floor be tempted to snap pictures of the locals may not be the comfiest, don’t sit on your in their traditional clothing and thanaka pillow to try and cushion your behind. In makeup. But before you take photos of Burmese culture, the head is considered others, simply ask if it’s okay first. the most sacred part of the body, while The locals are incredibly friendly, and

the bottom… not so much. in most cases will be happy to pose Yangon Every household will have a family for you. Taking photos of mediating shrine: be mindful of how you’re monks, however, is considered especially positioned when sitting around it. It’s rude. Snapping Buddhist images is also considered disrespectful to point your considered disrespectful, so put your feet – which are considered impure – camera down inside religious places. Mandalay towards the shrine, other people, and at images of Buddha. Shaking hands Speaking of feet, shoes should also be As you travel through Myanmar, you’ll The taken off when entering a household – so come across friendly monks who will be locals are wear matching socks. eager to practice their English on you. If extremely you’re a female, don’t try to shake their

curious Bagan Dressing appropriately hand. Monks are not allowed to touch about While visiting places of religious females, so your outstretched hand will importance, dress respectfully by be left hanging. foreigners, covering your shoulders and knees. Beat so don’t be the heat by donning a traditional Giving gifts to children surprised if that the majority of the locals wear – it’s a Giving gifts to children is not encouraged. you have a Adventure traditional piece of cloth that resembles a Your assumed good deed of giving the line of locals sarong and is super comfortable. kids a notepad and pen will actually wanting to Be mindful of your clothing when encourage them to pursue a career in take photos visiting villages too. As the locals say, begging. with you.

16 Safety & Scams When it comes to crime in Myanmar, it’s a good idea to be on your guard for touts, pests, and petty theft in the larger Contents cities. For those of you venturing off-the-beaten track, research the destination carefully to avoid any restricted areas.

Scams Overview When traveling through Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan or Inle Lake, vendors Yangon City will likely increase their prices, trying to scam tourists into spending more than they need to. However, in remote areas, stay there.” This is almost certainly a lie.

the prices stated are fair, and the locals Remember that these touts make Yangon Standard will be transparent about costs and their money by collecting commissions safety recommendations. from the hotels they direct visitors to. measures If you know where you want to go, Touts politely but firmly tell them, and they’ll should be When touts approach tourists to back down. exercised in Mandalay recommend a hotel, they’ll do anything Myanmar, to dissuade you from your pre-booked Crime such as accommodation, probably suggesting Pickpocketing and purse snatching keeping “That hotel is no good, foreigners can’t is rare, likely due to strict penalties valuables imposed on criminals. Police presence is concealed prevalent, with many stations boasting and a firm large signs in English that read, “May I grip on you Bagan help you?” bags. Standard safety measures should be exercised in Myanmar, such as keeping valuables concealed and a firm grip on your bags, just in case. Adventure The Myanmar–Thai border can be a hazardous location due to army presence and drug trafficking, but Kyat Banknote police don’t allow foreigners to visit

17 areas where there’s a significant risk of violence. Burmese people know that tourism is a very important part of the economy, so they are doing everything they can to keep tourists safe.

LGBT safety While it’s still illegal to be gay in Contents Myanmar, the culture is far more accepting than other countries in Asia that ban homosexuality completely – including Malaysia, , the Maldives, and India.

LGBT travelers who stay on the fairly Overview well-trodden tourist trail (Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake, Yangon) will find the locals are so accustomed to tourists, Suu Kyi, the pro-democracy that you’ll experience no problems activist, and now the country’s leader, here. In rural areas, the locals are not has spoken out against Myanmar's

used to seeing LGBT people, but you antiquated anti-gay laws. There have Yangon may find they are curious and simply been pride festivals and film festivals — want to know more. but on a very small scale. Myanmar is a devoutly Buddhist country, so all couples should avoid Travel Restrictions public displays of affection (this goes • The ministry of hotels and tourism is in charge of making restricted Mandalay for straight couples too!), and always areas known to the public. For up-to-date information, visit: dress modestly, covering knees and http://www.myanmartourism.org/index.php/tourist-information/ shoulders – especially when visiting permitted-areas. temples. • There are numerous restrictions for travel in the north of Myanmar. It’s a good idea to research these areas before going too far. These include the Region, Kachin Region, some areas of the Shan State.

Border Crossing Tips Bagan • Get all your kyat changed to US dollars or Thai baht before leaving Myanmar, as you’ll find it extremely difficult to find an exchange place willing to exchange Myanmar kyat. • Double check you have your exit stamp before arriving or departing Myanmar.

• Check to see if you will require government permits before you reach Adventure the border crossing. • To enter Myanmar, you’ll require a printed copy of your approval letter, and a photocopy of your passport. If you do not have these documents printed, they will turn you around at the border. Will Hatton

18 Visas & Vaccinations There are no legally-required Finding vaccinations to enter Myanmar, unless Vaccinations proper you’re coming from a country like healthcare Planning your trip to Myanmar Gambia, where Yellow Fever is rife. will require a few tedious But, it’s better to be safe than sorry. is rare in tasks – namely sorting out Check with your doctor to make sure Myanmar, your visa, and getting those your routine vaccines and disease and local Contents vaccinations in order. preventions are up to date against healthcare Hepatitis A and B, Diphtheria, Polio, facilities Visas Tetanus, Japanese Encephalitis B, should It’s far easier these days to obtain a Rabies, Tuberculosis, Yellow Fever, only be visa for Myanmar, thanks to the new Typhoid, and Malaria. used out of online e-visa system. It takes about desperation. Overview 3-4 business days to process your Health and hygiene visa, after the payment is made. Finding proper healthcare is rare You can enter either by land in Myanmar, and local healthcare through the , Myawaddy, facilities should only be used out of and checkpoints, or by desperation. Your best luck is in Yangon

plane through Mandalay or Nay Pyi or, better yet, over the border. It’s best Yangon Taw airports. to be prepared with medications from Over 100 countries are eligible for home by packing your own medical an e-visa. To view a full list of e-visa kit, and avoid buying over-the-counter countries, visit: https://evisa.moip. medication in Myanmar altogether. gov.mm/. Some nationalities, such as Check your mattress for bed bugs Mandalay Iranians, are required to obtain their along the seams after turning on the visa for Myanmar directly from the light, and before placing any of your embassy. belongings on the bed or sleeping in it. Both e-visa and consulate visas for Avoid drinking tap water, and water Myanmar cost around US $50, and with ice at all costs. Sealed bottled are valid for 28 days. Make sure you water is cheap in Myanmar, but try take passport-sized photos and US to take a water purifier to avoid Bagan currency with you to the consulate. contributing to plastic bottle waste. Find the closest Myanmar embassy to There is no reason to completely you here: https://myanmarvisa.com/ avoid street food stalls, as food is mynembassylist.htm. usually cooked to order in front of you. Unfortunately you can’t extend But use caution when food has been Adventure your e-visa or Tourist visa in sitting around, such as in a buffet. Eat Myanmar. Overstaying will cost US $3 only fruit that has a skin that can be a day, but we wouldn’t recommend peeled, and vegetables that have more than 14 days. been cooked.

19 Contents Overview Yangon Mandalay

YANGON HH and Southern Myanmar Bagan

xplore the bustling streets of Yangon, discover limestone caves and authentic charm in Hpa An, visit the ancient kingdom

E Adventure of Bago, and stumble upon secluded beaches in southern Myanmar.

20 YANGON AND SOUTHERN MYANMAR Yangon Myanmar’s largest city has something for everyone. Previously cut off to the outside world, there’s now more to Yangon than religious relics, with pristine parks, Contents modern bars, restaurants, and gyms being built to meet the demands of visitors and locals alike.

Shwedagon Pagoda Overview Shwedagon Pagoda is Myanmar’s symbol of national identity. Downtown Yangon

Undoubtedly Yangon’s greatest Anika Mikkelson landmark and top attraction, the 324ft (99m) high pagoda is best seen at Chauk Htat Gyi and sunrise and sunset, when natural light Nga Htat Gyi Yangon In the enhances the iconic artistry – believed Northeast of Shwedagon on heart of to be over 2,600 years old. Shwegondaing Road, two monumental downtown When visiting religious sites, it’s Buddha statues – Chauk Htat Gyi and Yangon, important to dress modestly, with Nga Htat Gyi – are situated across the shoulders and knees covered. street from one another. Mandalay and scarves are available for purchase The intricate designs on the soles is a beacon at the entrance to Shwedagon, and of Chauk Htat Gyi Buddha Temple’s that shines shoes are to be removed before six-story reclining statue, and the teak night and entering pagodas. carvings surrounding Nga Htat Gyi’s five- day. story seated figure, are testimonies to the fine craftsmanship of religious icons around the country. Bagan

Sule Pagoda In the heart of downtown Yangon, Sule Pagoda is a beacon that shines night and day near the city’s main Maha Bandoula Adventure Park. Its location is particularly interesting due to its proximity to Immanuel Baptist Sule Pagoda

Anika Mikkelson Church and Bengali Sunni Jameh

21 YANGON AND SOUTHERN MYANMAR

Mosque. This serves as a reminder more luxurious than ever, now that though a predominately Buddhist glistening views of the skyline and the Visit the country, Myanmar is home to a myriad iconic Shwedagon Pagoda. manicured of religions. Penthouse, YangonYangon, Eclipse, lawns and and Atlas Bars keep the party going to Dining out the wee hours of the night. Dress in mirrored From street food to upscale dining, style, and don’t make plans for waters of Yangon’s food options are expanding the day after a visit to one of these Kandawgyi Contents as quickly as an eager tourist’s waistline. rooftop bars! and Inya Chinatown’s 19th Street remains a staple Lakes for a for a night of cheap dining, with outdoor Kandawgyi and Inya lakes break from grills and plastic tables on the dimly-lit Visit the manicured lawns and mirrored Yangon’s street growing crowded at sundown. waters of Kandawgyi and Inya Lakes traffic.

For western eats and treats, for a break from Yangon’s traffic, and Overview opportunities are endless. The ever- enjoy a slice of serenity. Early morning popular Rangoon Tea House, Green is the perfect time for a jog around the Gallery, and House of Memories remain parks’ winding pathways, and as the sun staples in the Yangon Foodie diet. goes down, couples swarm the parks, Nawaday Street, just north of remaining hidden under the shadow of Tour the

Yangon’s Central Railway, and Pearl patterned umbrellas. Town Yangon Condo in Bahan Township, are home to a Several new companies are plethora of restaurants offering cuisines Maha Bandula Park and Dala popping up in an from around the world. Whether you’re township attempt to offer craving Mexican, Indian, or Italian, you’ll In the city center, Maha Bandula Park an insider’s view of Myanmar’s find exactly what you’re looking for at a is a common gathering site for families cultural capital. Mandalay range of prices. and festivals. Just south of Maha Unchartered Bandula, tourists can cross Yangon River Horizons arranges Bars to Dala Township for an overhyped tour. tours to the nearby town of Dala on Watering holes around the city are Better yet, skip the ferry; opt instead bicycle, while for a picnic at one of the quiet jetties Myanm/Art Gallery while watching boats take commuters offers single-day

gallery tours within Bagan to and from work. the city, in addition to their multi-day, Shopping in Yangon multi-city tours. Junction City is a state-of-the-art retail, Wired on 39 is an art gallery, which dining, and entertainment complex on invites visitors Adventure Bogyoke Aung San Road. into their studio Across the street, Bogyoke Market and takes groups sells local curios, antiques, fabrics, and on photo tours through interesting artwork galore. This covered market is a Chinatown, Yangon streets in Yangon.

Anika Mikkelson top pick for souvenir shopping.

22 YANGON AND SOUTHERN MYANMAR

Bago Sporting an ancient palace, a shining pagoda taller than Yangon’s infamous Shwedagon, and a slew of golden relics, the ancient Hanthawaddy Kingdom of Contents Bago is an easy visit from nearby Yangon.

Planning your visit Accessible by rail and road, a visit to

Bago can be arranged as a day trip, Overview weekend away, or stopover on the way to the country’s more northern cities.

With six morning arrivals and six Anika Mikkelson evening departures, tickets for the train between Yangon and Bago may Hinthagone Pagoda Getting

be purchased on the day of travel, with In the northeast corner of Bago, the Around Yangon Bago presentation of a passport. hilltop Hinthagone Pagoda offers a While it’s easy to The train’s calming sways provide panoramic view of the city, and easy get around by a slow-paced experience, taking access to the city’s palace. foot, motorbikes passengers through emerald fields, or private cars can and past villages dotted with golden Kanbawzathadi Palace be hired for the day, allowing for Mandalay pagodas. Upon arrival in Bago, visitors Since its original construction in the mid- quick trips between should inquire about return tickets 1500s, the once-stunning Kanbawzathadi Bago’s sites. to Yangon before leaving the train Palace has faced arson, heavy looting, To visit the city’s station. and now is home to few original details, main attractions, a 10,000 kyat, and a fungus growing as thick as the pack archaeological- of wild dogs overtaking the grounds. zone pass must be While it would be easy to be dissuaded purchased, along Bagan from visiting the palace, the museum and with an optional 3,000 kyat camera exterior details are well worth a look. pass. These passes can be obtained Shwemawdaw Pagoda at Shwemawdaw

Pagoda or Adventure Nearby, Shwemawdaw Pagoda is Kanbawzathadi undeniably the city’s most iconic Palace, and allow structure. Taller than Yangon’s own access to four of Shwedagon, the 375ft (114m) high the city’s main in Bago attractions.

Anika Mikkelson can be seen across the city.

23 YANGON AND SOUTHERN MYANMAR

The 53ft (16m) long reclining Buddha Mya Tha Lyaung lies draped

in a golden Contents cloak on the city’s western edge. Overview

Mya Tha Lyaung Anika Mikkelson

A walk around the pagoda can take smile and casual gaze were handcrafted an hour or more, as hundreds of smaller over a millennium ago, and only

surrounding and buildings adorn rediscovered in the 1880s. Yangon the grounds, and provide cultural and religious insights. Shwethalyaung Buddha While Mya Tha Lyaung remains exposed Mya Tha Lyaung to the elements, a short distance A masterpiece of giant proportions, the away lies a covered, reclining Buddha. Mandalay 53ft (16m) long reclining Buddha Mya Tha Shwethalyaung Buddha is just 6ft (2m) Lyaung lies draped in a golden cloak on longer than its outdoor neighbor, and is the city’s western edge. Once concealed accessible via an indoor pathway lined by overgrown jungle, the Buddha’s slight with excited artisans.

Bago Palace Kyaik Pun Between the reclining Buddhas and Bagan Bago’s railway station, a final stop at Kyaik Pun – literally translating to “Four Buddha” – is the perfect end to a busy day. These four 88ft (27m) high Buddhas have sat together, uncovered and back- Adventure to-back, since the 7th century. Nearby, a statue of the city’s iconic golden Hintha birds resting one on top of the other, can

Anika Mikkelson be found.

24 YANGON AND SOUTHERN MYANMAR

Hpa An Hot spring cave, Hpa-An Surrounded by dramatic limestone mountains and with a host of impressive caves to explore, Hpa An’s spectacular scenery and authentic charm make it a memorable place to Contents spend a few days.

Around town There’s little to see in the town itself, though its laid-back, friendly locals make it a pleasant base to explore the Overview surrounding countryside. With budget- friendly accommodation and limitless

opportunities to explore outside, Charlotte Rose it’s becoming a firm favorite among independent travelers. impressive caves, which can be easily The best way to explore is by explored over two days. The most You’ll Yangon renting a bicycle or motorbike from remarkable of these is the colossal discover a one of the shops in town, or, if you’re Sadan Cave. It spans the entire secret lake more comfortable on three wheels, underside of the mountain, and takes covered ask your hotel to arrange a tuk-tuk you to the other side via a network tour of the main sights. of dimly-lit tunnels and cavernous in water Mandalay chambers filled with Buddha images. lilies, where Explore Hpa An’s caves Once on the far side, you’ll discover a small Hidden away in the mountains a secret lake covered in water lilies, wooden surrounding Hpa An are several where a small wooden canoe will take canoe you back under the mountain with will take stunning views of the surrounding you back countryside. under the Bagan Other caves worth exploring include mountain. the impressive Kawgun Cave, which contains thousands of 7th century Buddha images. Indulge your inner Indiana Jones in the narrow tunnels Adventure of Yathaypyan, or take a dip in the steaming hot springs at the elaborate Bayin Nyi Cave. Kyauk Kalap Temple At sunset, visit the Bat Cave, where

25 YANGON AND SOUTHERN MYANMAR

Mount Zwekabin The rows of Buddha statues that surround the base of the

mountain Contents make for a breath- taking sight. Overview Charlotte Rose thousands of bats streaming out Alternatively, take a ferry from the

over the mountains make for a mind- jetty next to the pagoda and cross the Yangon boggling spectacle. river to Mount Hpar Pu, where a thirty- minute hike uphill will take you to a Climb Mount Zwekabin pagoda, where you can enjoy fantastic The steep, four-hour climb up views over the surrounding rice fields Mount Zwekabin is a popular Hpa An and limestone hills. Mandalay excursion – though it’s not for the faint-hearted. Wear proper walking Kan Thar Yar Lake shoes, leave at sunrise to escape the In the evenings, locals gather at the heat, and enjoy magical views of the serene Kan Thar Yar Lake on the mountains shrouded in mist. outskirts of town, where you can enjoy If that sounds like too much hard sunset views over the mountains with work, the rows of Buddha statues that a cold beer, and BBQ snacks served up Bagan surround the base of the mountain by various mobile vendors. make for a breathtaking sight, minus the effort. Coffee With a Conscience Conveniently located on the south side of Kan Thar Yar lake, Veranda Adventure Shweyinhmyaw Pagoda community café is a great spot to refuel with a light lunch and fresh After a long day of exploring, the coffee after a morning of sightseeing. riverside Shweyinhmyaw Pagoda in the The café operates as a social enterprise, with the proceeds going to support local youth. The friendly staff are always happy to chat and northwest of town is a popular place share little-known travel tips. to sit and watch the sunset.

26 YANGON AND SOUTHERN MYANMAR

Beaches to Maungmagan Beach, Dawei Explore With 1,200mi (1,930km) of unspoiled coast and more than 800 islands to explore, the journey south to Myanmar’s beaches may not be easy, but it Contents sure will be worth your while.

Ngapali Beach While Ngapali is the most developed beach in Myanmar, it’s got nowhere Overview near the level of infrastructure that Phuket has – and let’s hope it stays

that way. Sergio Molino Aguado Tourism is flourishing in Ngapali, with many local agencies now offering past decade. cycling tours, guided hikes through At the end of the day, take a walk Step inside Yangon nearby mountains, scuba diving, along Ngapali beach as the sun to peer snorkeling, and kayaking. sets, and stop in at one of the local onto the If you’re looking for a taste of the restaurants to taste delicious seafood. busy streets local culture, hire a motorbike or If you’re catching a bus to Ngapali, bicycle and ride to the fishermen’s Thandwe is where you’ll hop off, and below like Mandalay village at the southern end of the up the northern end of the beach the Rajput beach. You’ll see their traditional way you’ll be able to find accommodation women of of life and get a sense that things for US $20/night. the royal really haven’t changed much in the household Chaung Tha once did. Sin Htauk, Dawei Chaung Tha is the most popular beach among locals. For a truly Bagan local experience, this is the place to go – plus you´ll find affordable accommodation. Chaung Tha hasn’t got infrastructure like Ngapali, but you’ll still be able to Adventure go snorkelling, horse riding, or cycling in the area. If you’re there on a national public

Sergio Molino Aguado holiday or long weekend, it’ll be

27 YANGON AND SOUTHERN MYANMAR far more crowded with locals from Getting Yangon who’ve ventured to Chaung to the Tha for a bit of relaxation. Beaches While it won’t be cheap or easy Ngwe to reach these Ngwe Saung is the closest beach to beaches, it’s the Yangon, where you’ll find mid-range inconvenience that has left them accommodation and white sand unspoiled and Contents beaches. secluded. The two Hire a motorbike and ride across main regions for Paradise beach, Dawei beach tourism in the long stretches of sand, stopping at Sergio Molino Aguado Myanmar are the local restaurants to enjoy some more Bay of Bengal and fresh seafood. bungalows with basic facilities (no Wi- the Andaman Sea.

If you venture to the southern end Fi, and no electricity – just solar power) By Bus Overview of the beach, it’s far more deserted, for US $20–$30/night. From Yangon, the most accessible and you might even have the whole beaches are beach to yourself! Mergui Archipelago Chaung Tha and If you’ve got a loose budget, boats The most convenient way to visit the Ngwe Saung, which will take and guides can be hired to explore Mergui Archipelago is by daily tours around 6–8 hours. nearby islands, where you’ll snorkel in from Myeik, which cost around US Yangon A bus to Myeik crystal-clear waters that are teaming $60–$100/day. will take with bright-colored fish. While you’re there, you’ll no doubt approximately 26 go snorkelling and scuba diving. Many hours, Dawei will take 16 hours, and Dawei cruises and yachts come from Thailand Ngapali around 14 Head to the Andaman Sea, where an and stay for a few days to enjoy unique hours. Mandalay unspoiled Myanmar awaits those who diving spots, full of untouched marine By Flight are willing to make the long journey life. Your most there. Dawei is the main city in this If you’d rather stay above the water, expensive and comfortable area on the banks of a river, but not far go kayaking through the mangroves, option is to catch from the coast. or trekking through the jungles of the a flight. There You’ll need to take a bus or hire bigger islands. are airports near

Myeik (Mergui Bagan a motorbike and ride half an hour This archipelago of islands is home Archipelago), before you reach the first beach, to the Moken people, one of the Dawei, and Maungmagan. many minorities of Myanmar who are Ngapali. If you’re feeling up for an adventure, informally referred to as “sea gypsies”. By Train take the journey 1.5–3 hours from These nomadic people live off the Trains aren’t well

developed in Adventure Dawei to reach a few of the most sea, jumping from island to island. these areas – and amazing beaches in Myanmar. Some of the Moken people can even if there is a train Grandfather’s, Sin Htauk, and Paradise see underwater, after years of diving line, it’ll take a Beach are among them. These beneath the salty seas to fetch their long time to reach the final stop. three beaches have a few bamboo food!

28 Contents Overview Yangon Mandalay

MANDALAY HH and Northern Myanmar Bagan

orthern Myanmar is quite the change of scenery – replace ancient pagodas with snow-capped mountains around Hsipaw, trek through rice paddies to find rushing

N Adventure waterfalls, or learn about spirituality and Myanmar’s past in and around Mandalay. A trip to the north will no doubt come with a bit of effort, but it’ll be well worth the long journey.

29 MANDALAY AND NORTHERN MYANMAR

Mandalay Mandalay Hill If the northern reaches of Myanmar interest you, you’ll no doubt arrive in Mandalay eager to hop on a bus and escape the city walls. Before you get away, take time to Contents see pagodas, find trinkets at the night markets, watch a marionette show, and go for a hike. Overview Mandalay Hill Mandalay Hill is a popular pilgrimage

site, with several pagodas and Hannah Logan monasteries to see. The highlight is Sutaungpyei Pagoda on top, which has several lookouts to see stunning Mandalay Palace is a large, walled Mandalay Yangon panoramic views – it’s especially complex that was originally Hill is a beautiful at sunset. constructed in the mid 1800s. Most popular Walking up the hill will take about of it was destroyed during WWII, pilgrimage 30-45 minutes without stops. If you however it has since been rebuilt. choose to walk, keep an eye out for Most of the buildings are open to site, with Mandalay snakes – especially after dark. If you’re visitors, including the watchtower several not a fan of snakes or working up a which is worth climbing for the view of pagodas and sweat, get your driver to take you to the palace grounds below. monasteries the top. to see. Mandalay palace This beautiful Buddhist monastery was once part of Mandalay Palace, but Bagan was moved to the base of Mandalay Hill. The building is known for the teak carvings, which depict famous Buddhist myths. Adventure

Mahamuni Buddha Temple This famous Buddhist pilgrimage site is said to be one of the five likenesses of

Hannah Logan Buddha made during his lifetime. Men

30 MANDALAY AND NORTHERN MYANMAR pay respect to the Buddha by applying become a dying tradition. It’s possible Markets gold leaf to the statue, which has to see one of these traditional shows of Mandalay distorted its shape over time. at the Mandalay Marionettes theatre. The Mandalay night market is To avoid disappointment, tickets made up of more should be purchased in advance. food stalls than This complex is made up of a large, trinket vendors, but it’s a great golden pagoda (which resembles place to grab a Bagan’s ), and more This gorgeous white pagoda was meal, meet some Contents than 700 ornate white stupas. modelled to resemble friendly locals, and experience the What makes this attraction so from Buddhist mythology. It was city life. unique is that together, all the stupas built by the king in dedication to his Another popular create the world’s largest book. Each first consort and cousin, who died in market is the Jade stupa holds a stone tablet ‘page’ from childbirth. market, which the Tipitaka, the Buddhist scriptures. deals jade chips, Overview and pieces of all Amarapura quality and sizes. See a traditional Twice throughout history, Amarapura marionette show was the Burmese capital. Today, Marionette shows are a historical it’s a township of Mandalay. There treasure in Myanmar. They were once are several interesting sites and

a revered art enjoyed by royalty and attractions, including the famous U Yangon common folk alike – but today, have Bein bridge.

Marionettes show Mandalay Bagan Adventure Hannah Logan

31 MANDALAY AND NORTHERN MYANMAR

Amarapura Amarapura sunset Better known for the famous U Bein Bridge, Amarapura makes for an easy day-trip from nearby Mandalay. While it no longer holds the of

royal capital, there’s plenty to Contents see and do.

U Bein Bridge Stretching 0.75mi (1.2km) long, this is the largest teak wood bridge in the world. While it’s beautiful at any time of Overview day, it’s certainly most stunning at sunset. For the best photo opportunity, get off the bridge in the middle and stand in the fields to capture the bridge’s silhouette against the fiery, orange-red sky. Pagoda Give Maha-

Local fishermen will be happy to take Pahtodawgyi was built in the early 1800s gandayon Yangon Monastery you out on the Taungthaman Lake by in the southern region of Amarapura, a Miss boat – for a small fee. Keep in mind that and modelled after the Mahazedi of Mahagandayon early morning and late afternoon are the Sri Lanka. If you climb to the highest Monastery is busiest times of day for local commuters. terrace, you’ll be rewarded with a included on panoramic view over the countryside. almost every tour, however there’s Mandalay good reason to This beautiful, white Mahar Wai Yan Bon Thar give it a miss. was built to model Monastery Tour groups in Bagan. It’s located near the U Don’t miss this five-story Buddhist will almost Bein Bridge, and best known for the monastery, which was built with the always arrive at the teaching frescoes decorating the interior and traditional tiered roofs featured in monastery right Bagan the Buddha statue inside – which is Burmese architecture. There are over on time to see said to be carved from a single block 20,000 wooden carvings in the temple, all the monks line up for lunch. of marble. 500 images of Buddha within the While this sounds grounds, and ancient manuscripts written like a cultural Weawsana Jade Pagoda on palm leaves within the library. experience, it’s

become too Adventure Just outside Amarapura, Weawsana popular, and you Jade Pagoda is made entirely of (you Amarapura Palace ruins might get the guessed it) jade. Its appearance gives it See the former splendour of the treasury feeling you’re an otherworldly feel – which has been building, watch tower, and tombs of two at a zoo – not a religious site. jokingly likened to kryptonite. of the kings.

32 MANDALAY AND NORTHERN MYANMAR Inwa Inwa was once the capital city of Burma, and to this day appears to be one of many hidden secrets in Myanmar. But is a day- trip to Inwa worth your while? Contents Sightseeing circuit Since Inwa is relatively large, there are locals waiting to take visitors around the typical sightseeing circuit in pony drawn carts. However, this method of transportation around the vast city does Overview limit your chance to explore on your own, and take your time. Travelers often report getting ripped off with transportation in Inwa, from the ferry to the carriage rides. Before you go, the Maha Aungmye Bonzan Monastery,

find out what the going rate is, and agree as well as other sites around Inwa and Yangon on a price before you take a seat. Amarapura too.

Bagaya Monastery Tourist trap or must-see? Constructed in teak and incredibly well Some might say Inwa is more a tourist preserved, the Bagaya Kyaung Monastery trap than a day-trip. While the only way Take a Day- Mandalay is still in use today. around is by horse and carriage, these trip from Young monks use the Bagaya Kyaung horses look unhealthy and overworked. Mandalay Monastery as a place of learning, with When you ask to stop, it’ll cost you to Inwa elegantly-carved desks and eager additional kyat – on top of the carriage Only 12mi (20km) from Mandalay, students inside. Outside of the Bagaya fee – and when you do stop, you should Inwa can be Kyaung Monastery, there’s an impressive expect to be approached by dozens of reached by taking carving of a mythical creature, identified vendors, all trying to sell you trinkets. a bus, taxi, or Bagan motorbike from as half-woman half-bird. Mandalay to Myint See the ruins in Nge. Motorbikes Pagodas and villages Just 7mi (11km) north of Mandalay, catch tend to be faster, Explore Inwas’ many pagodas, see the old a small boat to the ruins of Mingun. taking only 30 minutes to reach Adventure city wall, and wander through the fields These ruins are far less-frequented by the rivers edge, and local villages to get a taste for the crowds of tourists and locals, and are where a small ferry slower pace of life. equally as impressive and unique. The transports you across the river to The Mandalay archaeological zone boat trip to reach Mingun is exciting, and Inwa. ticket (US $10) will give you access to feels like more of an epic adventure.

33 MANDALAY AND NORTHERN MYANMAR

Getting To Hsipaw and Around Set at the foot of snow-capped Hsipaw mountains and alongside the Most people will Duthawadi River in Shan State, come from Mandalay – six hours by bus. Hsipaw is surrounded by rice Bus paddies, ancient payas, natural Two services leave hot springs, and rushing from Mandalay Contents waterfalls. per day. Both take six hours, and cost

Waterfall in Hsipaw around 4,000–5,000

Little Bagan Sergio Molino Aguado kyat (US $3–$4). While Little Bagan might not be One leaves the comparable to the UNESCO-listed covered cliff into a bubbling pool. Mandalay bus terminal at 7am Bagan further south, it’s still well There’s nothing quite like a quick dip to Overview arriving at 1pm, and worth hiking from Hsipaw village to cool you off after a long day of hiking. the other leaves at see. You’ll find mini payas (religious It takes about two hours to walk to 3pm arriving at 9pm. structures) wrapped in vines, rushing Nam Tuk from Hsipaw town, and most From Inle Lake, for rivers, water buffalos feasting on guesthouses can give you an easy-to- 15,000 kyat (US $11) there’s a daily grass, and pass through rural villages follow map. departure from on your way there. Nyaungshwe that Yangon Natural hot springs departs at 5pm, and takes 14 hours. Visit Naloy village There are a few hot springs around Naloy village is a 30-minute walk Hsipaw that are an easy day-hike From Yangon there’s a bus that takes 14 from Hsipaw, where there was once a from the center of town. Ask your hours, costs 14,500 Taiwanese-run English school. If you guesthouse for a map, and head out to kyat (US $10.50), and Mandalay take a walk around town, say hello to explore for yourself. departs at 5:30pm. Note this service the locals – they might speak a bit of These are great places to meet the comes from , English thanks to the classes that were locals, who are often relaxing in the so you should book held there a few years back! warm water late in the afternoon or a day in advance to guarantee a seat. early in the morning. Nam Tuk Waterfall Train

Trains are the less Bagan Hike to this beautiful spot in the jungle, Multi-day trek to nearby popular option, but where water cascades down a moss- Shan villages leaves Mandalay at For a real taste of rural life in northern 4am, and arrives at Hsipaw station Myanmar, hire a guide to take you on Accommodation around 3:15pm. a multi-day trek to the nearby Shan Most people who visit Hsipaw stay at Mr. To take the train Adventure Charles Guesthouse. This little place feels like villages. Make sure your guide can from Yangon or a homestay, is in a convenient location, has speak English so he can translate for Inle Lake to Hsipaw, excellent hand-drawn maps, and the staff can you, and you can have meaningful you’ll have to stop help you organize multi-day treks to nearby and change trains at conversations with the people in the Shan villages, and homestays there too. Mandalay Station. villages.

34 Contents Overview Yangon Mandalay

BAGAN HH and Central Myanmar Bagan

atch a glimpse of traditional Burmese life at a local village, explore the temples of Bagan without crowds of tourists, take a boat trip

C Adventure down the Irrawaddy river, and watch the one-legged fishermen paddle around with ease on Inle Lake.

35 BAGAN AND CENTRAL MYANMAR Bagan As the UNESCO-listed Bagan becomes more popular among travelers, don’t fret – with over 2,000 temples to explore, it’s still easy to get off-the-beaten-path. Contents Witness a Bagan sunrise Watching the sunrise over the temples of Bagan is the highlight for most travelers, but there are two ways to do this. Either you choose to take the luxury method of a hot air balloon ride, Overview or watch from the top of a temple. If you’ve got your heart set on Bagan sunrise

ballooning, know that it’s pricey – around Will Hatton US $300 – and needs to be booked well in advance. Balloon rides also only occur separate towns (Nyuang U, Old Bagan,

between October–March. New Bagan) and over 2,000 temples in Yangon E-bikes are For those who travel outside of this the area, it would be impossible to see the best period, or can’t quite afford the hefty it all by foot. way to get price-tag of a balloon ride, there are Renting a car with a driver, hiring plenty of temples that offer stunning a push bike, or taking a horse and around and vantage points. carriage are all possibilities, however explore Mandalay you’ve got a lot of ground to cover, the area, Explore the temples and these rather slow options put a especially by e-bike limit on how far you’ll get. if you want Bagan is not walkable. With three E-bikes are the best way to get to get away around and explore the area, especially from the if you want to get away from the hoardes of hoardes of tourists. An e-bike can be tourists. Bagan rented for as little as US $5/day for the small size, and US $10/day for the larger size. By using an e-bike, you can explore the famous temples such as Ananda, Shwezigon, Dhammayangyi, Adventure and Sulamani – among other lesser- known and unmapped temples. Just be sure to check the brakes before you Cycling the temples of Bagan

Pete Rojwongsuriya ride off to the temples.

36 BAGAN AND CENTRAL MYANMAR

Ballooning Over Bagan Ballooning Over Bagan With a 5:30am pick-up and a 6am flight, companies brief all flyers with a safety talk before taking to the skies. Balloons take off on

the southern edge Contents of the plains and fly across a section, following the winds and promising spectacular views of some of the biggest and most iconic Overview temples. Although balloons are relatively high up, the sunrise combined with the endless views of temples, grasslands,

and other hot air Yangon balloons littering the sky is one of the most incredible sights. Catch a glimpse of Hire a private car, or get there by You’ll be up in the traditional Burmese life bus, and climb 777 stairs to reach the skies for one hour, Mandalay The temples may be the main monastery at the top. Before you start so you’ll have the whole day ahead to attraction, but take some time to talk the climb, you’ll have to slip off your explore the temples to the friendly locals in Bagan as well. shoes. up close, by e-bike Visit Minnathu Village to learn or foot. about the rural Burmese life, including Watch the sunset over Bagan Combining both learning how to make thanaka. Or Sunrise may be the big ‘must-do’ when experiences will give

you the best of both Bagan stop by one of the many lacquer ware in Bagan, but the sunsets are pretty worlds. shops, where you can see the process spectacular too. behind this artisan trade. It’s possible to venture out to one of the many temples to watch from Take a day-trip to the top, but another option is to take There’s enough in Bagan to keep you a boat cruise on the Irrawaddy River. Adventure busy for a few days, but if you want Several hotels will be able to organize to see something different, head to this for you, but there are plenty of Mount Popa – an extinct volcano about locals that’ll approach to see if you’re 1.5 hours from Bagan. interested as well.

37 BAGAN AND CENTRAL MYANMAR

Inle Lake Inle Lake Home to the unique floating gardens and villages comprised of stilt-houses, Inle Lake offers a tranquil view into the lives of the

Intha people – who base their Contents existence entirely on water.

Long tail boat ride Hire a wooden, long tail boat and discover the magic of Myanmar while floating along the lake, with views of Overview mountain ranges all around.

Cycle around Inle Biking around Inle is a great way to discover its beauty from a different from the larger Kayan tribe. Take a Trip

angle. If you’re hiring a bike, consider Weaving brightly-colored scarves, Along the Yangon Irrawaddy a trip to the Red Mountain Estate bags, and selling their handicrafts, River Vineyard, located on the lower slopes these women wear brass rings around Trade the hustle of the mountain rim, and offering their necks to give them the illusion and bustle for stunning vistas down the valley – it’s a of being elongated. The women are a leisurely boat worthy half-day activity. extremely friendly and encourage ride upriver from Mandalay photographs, just don’t treat this like Bagan to Mandalay. Cruising this route Local fishermen a trip to the zoo. Always ask politely may not seem like Dotting Inle Lake are the infamous before snapping photos, and do your the most obvious one-legged fisherman, who steer their best to say hello in the local language. choice – buses make the trip in six boats by wrapping one leg around their hours, compared to oar – their impressive balancing skills Trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake 12 on the river – but will leave you wanting to sign up to a Known as Myanmar’s trekking mecca, it’s the best way to Bagan discover rural life yoga class. and where most travelers begin their along the banks. Enjoy their catch-of-the-day at one journey to Inle Lake, Kalaw offers a Many boats make of the stilt-restaurants that rise above variety of options for exploration. stops at riverside the water lining the lake. The multi-day treks to Inle Lake put villages, like you in the heart of Myanmar’s natural Yandabo, an historic Adventure town known for surrounds, and takes you back to the The Padaung tribe pots and other Found in the Ywama village on Inle basics – if bucket showers and squat goods made of Lake, you’ll meet a group of women toilets aren’t your thing, then you’ll river clay. from the Padaung tribe – a subgroup struggle on this trek.

38 BAGAN AND CENTRAL MYANMAR

Monywa Thanbodday Pagoda District Not only is Monywa home to the world’s second tallest standing Buddha, the hills surrounding this sleepy riverside town are crammed Contents with ancient religious monuments and glittering pagodas – not to mention some of the most eccentric temples in the country. Overview

Since few visitors make the trip

here, you may even have them all to Charlotte Rose yourself. Be sure to give yourself two days to explore these must-see sights. Time your visit right, and you’ll

wander through its passages to the On the Yangon Thanbodday Pagoda sound of dozens of chanting monks – road from The brightly-colored Thanbodday though take care not to photograph Thanbodday Pagoda is famed for its astonishing them while they are meditating. Pagoda number of Buddha images, as well as On the road from Thanbodday its Disney-esque exterior complete Pagoda to Bodhi Tataung, stop off at to Bodhi Mandalay with candy-striped towers and concrete the row of small bamboo stalls selling Tataung, elephants. The temple’s maze-like local snacks. Menu items are limited stop off interior is just as impressive, with row to dried rabbit and pigeon meat, at the row upon row of glittering Buddha statues. while the beverage of choice is palm of small toddy made from sap, and collected bamboo by men who climb high into the stalls selling trees using narrow bamboo ladders. local snacks. Bagan The toddy tends to be sweeter in the morning, and becomes sharper throughout the day as it ferments.

Bodhi Tataung Adventure Anywhere else, the sight of 1,000 Buddhas sitting in a forest of banyan trees would be something to write Burmese boats, Monywa District home about. At Bodhi Tataung,

39 BAGAN AND CENTRAL MYANMAR however, they are overshadowed by Laykyun Sekkya Buddha the towering Laykyun Sekkya Buddha – the second tallest standing Buddha in the world. At 424ft (129m) high – almost 10 times taller than New York’s Statue of Liberty, and over 13 times taller than Christ the Redeemer in Rio – it’s a truly Contents jaw-dropping sight. Be sure to climb the 31 stories into the Buddha’s chest, though don’t expect scenic views. Each floor contains galleries of kitschy paintings depicting gruesome visions of hell, in Overview which sinners are tortured by demons in a variety of disturbing ways. If all that doesn’t satisfy your appetite for giant Buddhas, lower down the hillside lounges an Visiting Local Tribes and enormous 312ft (95m) reclining Yangon Respecting the Local Culture Buddha, while a massive seated Be sure to Locals are very polite and Buddha is under construction nearby – climb the 31 stories accommodating to foreigners. However, it’s colossal headless skeleton making sadly, there are plenty of visitors to for a curious sight. into the Myanmar who act without thinking. Buddha’s Always be considerate and ask before

taking a picture, this isn’t a photo shoot. Mandalay Hpo Win Daung Complex chest, Show them the photo once you’ve taken An hour’s drive from Monywa, this though it – better yet, if you’ve got a polaroid mysterious cave complex of 492 don’t expect camera, giving a photo as a gift will go a long way. Buddha chambers, carved between scenic If you bring a gift to break the ice, hand the 14th and 18th centuries, makes views. it over with your right hand, putting your for a fascinating visit. To get the most Each floor left hand under your elbow – it’s a sign of out of your trip, it’s worth taking a contains respect. Bagan guide who, as well as explaining the galleries Learn the local language: thank you or history of the site, will likely throw in hello in the tribe’s native tongue goes of kitschy a long way. “Tar Blu Pador” is Karen for a few entertaining tales of captured paintings “thank you very much”. princesses. depicting To reduce the environmental and cultural Adventure After a long day of exploring, gruesome impacts of tourism, it’s recommended complete the kitsch-fest with a visit to visions of visiting these communities in small Las Vegas – a tropical-themed eatery groups. Don’t bring foreign items like hell. alcohol, cosmetics, and energy drinks serving a fine mix of Chinese and Thai with you into the villages. dishes.

40 BAGAN AND CENTRAL MYANMAR

Naypyidaw Naypyidaw, capital city of Myanmar Cities don’t come more eccentric than Myanmar’s new, multi-million-dollar capital. Dusty, deserted, and entirely un-photogenic, Naypyidaw

may not be everyone’s idea Contents of a good time – but its post- apocalyptic streets and outlandish attractions make it one of the most surreal sights in Myanmar. Overview

Moving the capital Little more than a decade old, the city was unveiled as Myanmar’s new capital in 2005, after the government boasts twenty-lane highways, glitzy unexpectedly decided to move it from shopping malls, a Vegas-inspired hotel Attractions Yangon Yangon. The reason for this move zone, and no fewer than four golf may be remains a mystery: some believe courses – all plonked in the middle of few and far the new capital was a government the jungle. between, vanity project, while others speculate Attractions may be few and far that the nation’s then leader, Than between, but the sheer absurdity of but the Mandalay Shwe, was following the advice of an the place makes for a fascinating, if sheer astrologer. unconventional visit. absurdity Curious visitors will find no shortage of the place of eccentricities in the capital, which Life in the new capital makes for a When it comes to experiencing local fascinating life, there’s no better place than a visit. bustling capital city, right? Except Bagan Naypyidaw, which is less bustling capital and more empty ghost town. Officially, the city’s population is around one million, but many doubt this is anywhere close to the real Adventure figure. The vast highways are so quiet that you could easily go for hours without encountering any Irawaddy River life at all – aside from a few lonely

41 BAGAN AND CENTRAL MYANMAR street sweepers and the odd buffalo wandering outside the sprawling In the government buildings. evening, locals Things to do congregate When it comes to recreational at the water activities, Naypyidaw has little to gardens in offer except for a deserted gemstone the center Contents museum, and the colossal Defence of the city, Services Museum – simultaneously a water the emptiest and most well-cared-for fountain museum in the country. complex Even the golden Uppatasanti built for them wasn’t enough to protect which hosts Pagoda, a brand-new replica of the them from Naypyidaw’s blistering heat. Overview ancient Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, a musical In the evening, locals congregate at rarely sees a visitor. light show the water gardens in the center of the It’s worth hiring a driver for the each night. city, a water fountain complex which 45-minute journey to the Disney-esque hosts a musical light show each night. Naypyidaw Zoo, where you can hop The park itself is characteristically

on a safari tour bus and hang out with garish, but it’s a good place to meet Yangon the locals. Bizarrely, the zoo used to be local people – though expect to pose home to a group of penguins – sadly, for a lot of selfies. the air-conditioned enclosure that was Visit the man-made beach Few visitors to Naypyidaw know that Mandalay it has its very own man-made beach. Ngalaik Lake Gardens is a 165-acre recreational park that includes an eco- resort with water slides, a spa, and a beach on the shores of the lake.

Café Flight Bagan Feeling peckish? Café Flight is a restaurant built inside a salvaged passenger jet, which was written off in an accident and brought to Naypyidaw as an attraction for visitors. Adventure The food may be more budget- airline fare than fine dining, but eating in a plane is a great way to top off the bizarre Naypyidaw experience.

42 Contents Overview Yangon Mandalay

ADVENTURE HH in Myanmar Bagan

yanmar has long been known as the cultural and historical haven of , but if you take a sidestep off the otherwise well-trodden tourist

M Adventure trail, you’ll find yourself in thick jungles, remote villages, and stumble upon hidden waterfalls that can only be reached on foot, or by bike.

43 ADVENTURE IN MYANMAR

Hiking and Hiking in Kalaw Cycling If you love traveling on foot or pedaling your way around new places, from day-trips to overnighters, Myanmar has it all. Pack your hiking boots, Contents and check the weather before you go – you're in for a wild adventure.

Day hikes and cycling Overview around Inle Lake Set among rice paddies and Pa’O villages, Inle Lake is the perfect area to go for a day-hike or a peaceful cycle in central Myanmar. wonderland? You don’t really have to From the main town of follow a specific route on this day trip. Hiking and Yangon Nyaungshwe, follow the dirt path Simply grab a map (and a rental bike cycling south towards the Pa’O Villages if you’re cycling) from a guest house, around the on the east coast of the lake. After choose a few temples you don’t want temples of visiting a few villages, you can hop on to miss, and set off. a boat (around 6,000 kyat) to take you As the area is so large, you’ll be able Bagan is a Mandalay back across the lake. to see a lot more from a bike – but it’s must. Who You can also ride your bike (15 possible to walk too. Just know that it wouldn’t want minutes) or walk (55 minutes) from can be sweltering around midday, so to explore Nyaungshwe to the Red Mountain it’s recommended that you go early in this 40mi2 Estate Vineyard for beautiful views the morning or late afternoon. (104km2), over the lake, a tasty lunch, and Late afternoon is also the best time UNESCO- delicious Burmese wine! It’s best to for photographs, when the shadows listed, 11th Bagan only do a small wine sampling if you’re of the temples grow, and the sun century riding your bike home. lights up the clouds around sunset. temple wonderland? Day hikes and cycling Multi-day hike from around Bagan Inle to Kalaw Adventure Hiking and cycling around the temples If a simple day trek isn’t satisfying of Bagan is a must. Who wouldn’t enough for you, there are a few want to explore this 40mi2 (104km2), excellent, multi-day treks to conquer. UNESCO-listed, 11th century temple The trek from Inle to Kalaw is one

44 ADVENTURE IN MYANMAR

of the most popular, mostly due to Cycling around Inle the fact that it’s relatively easy to On the organize, and because it’s near Inle bike, the Lake – one of the main attractions in trip doesn’t Myanmar. have to be Heading west out of Inle Lake, you overnight, can trek directly to the former British but it’s Hill Station of Kalaw. Even though this still fun to Contents trek has become popular, there’s a sleep at the chance you won’t see anyone else on monastery

the path. Road the on Goats – so you It’s well worth hiring an English- may want to speaking guide to translate when every guesthouse in the village can leave late you reach villages, such as the Pa’O arrange day treks here. One of the Overview people, the Palaung, Taungthu, best is an overnight trek to a nearby afternoon and Danu. If you choose the more Palaung Village. You’ll likely spend on day one. challenging route between Baw Nin the night on the floor of a monastery Khone and Than Dang, a great place and wake up to the rising sun over to spend the night is at the Tithein sunflower-clad hillsides.

Monastery. Yangon

Cycle from Inle to Kalaw Some Useful Tips Before Planning This route is also possible to do by Your Adventure bike. There are a few outfitters in Inle • Accommodation on these treks is going to be very basic. You’ll likely be sleeping on the floor in monasteries on a thin mattress. Sometimes, and Kalaw who can set you up with a you’ll have a mosquito net, other times you may be eaten alive. Mandalay rental for the trip, and a guide as well. • Trekking and hiking in Myanmar is relatively new, so be aware that the On the bike, the trip doesn’t have to infrastructure isn’t as well established as other countries, such as Nepal. be overnight, but it’s still fun to sleep • Bring a hat to protect from the sun, and long, light clothing for the at the monastery – so you may want early morning and late afternoons when bugs are at their worst. to leave late afternoon on day one, • Always carry insect repellent and some sunscreen, and try to plan your and end in Kalaw the next morning. trekking and cycling in the early mornings or late afternoon, when the

air is cooler and the sun isn’t as strong. Bagan Multi-day hike from Hsipaw • Hiking is always free unless you decide to hire a guide, which shouldn’t to Palaung Village cost more than US $20–$25/day. Hsipaw has long been a well-known • A simple bike will cost around 1,500 kyat/day (US $1.10), while a mountain bike will cost as much as 15,000 kyat/day (US $5) – depending hiking and trekking destination in on where you rent it from, and the quality of the bike. Myanmar. Located just 6.5 hours Adventure • While you can do many independent hikes and treks around Myanmar, north of Mandalay, Hsipaw is a it’s always nice to have a guide – not only to show you the way, but to stunning mountain village that, help the local economy by putting money back in their pockets. Often their translations will lead to real interactions with the locals, and that’s despite a recent influx of tourism, still the best part. remains delightfully Burmese. Almost

45 ADVENTURE IN MYANMAR

Caves Take a break from temples and pagodas to explore beneath the surface of Myanmar, where limestone caverns lead to un-interrupted views of the

Burmese countryside. Contents

Sadan Cave Located near Hpa An, this is one of the largest caves in Myanmar, dominated by dozens of Buddha statues, intrinsic wall carvings, and with bats hanging from Overview the ceiling. Bring a headlamp to help guide your way through the pitch-black

chambers to see marvelous stalagmites, Will Hatton stalactites, and sparkling crystal walls. Wear grippy shoes: the slippery rocks with murals covering the walls, and a Pindaya

make navigation a little tedious, and the vast collection of Buddhist statues. They Cave Yangon passageways are narrow – not the best if stretch across several terraces, boasting a Pindaya Cave is tucked away in the you’re claustrophobic! lovely view of the city below. highlands of the The pungent smell of bat feces fills the The caves are popular among Burmese southern region of air, and at times the bat squeals might be tourists, but you’re unlikely to see many Shan State, and is an easy jump from the deafening – but it’s all worth the journey travelers there. popular Inle Lake. Mandalay once you break through the massive cave Keep an eye out for boisterous Catch a pickup into and see the view from the other side. As monkeys – they will try to steal your stuff! the hills, and follow you emerge from the darkness of the in the footsteps of cave, you’ll be rewarded with views of a Kawgun Cave Buddhist pilgrims who, for hundreds lake. Stay a while and watch the sun set Kawgun Cave was constructed in the of years, have over the mountains in the distance. You’ll early 7th century, and is located near the journeyed from far feel like Batman as clouds of bats come town of Hpa An. This ancient cave is a and wide to visit this Bagan cave system filled storming out of the cave behind you. sacred site that attracts many Buddhist with over 8,000 monks, who come here to worship. Buddha statues. Po Win Daung The well-preserved cave has a mystical Keep your eyes West of Monywa, you’ll find one of the charm, with incredible murals and wall peeled: you’ll find most sacred caves in Myanmar. There carvings featuring thousands of images statues hidden in Adventure every nook and are around 950 caves carved into the of Buddha. cranny. These golden side of a cliff, which were built in the If you climb to the top of Kawgun Buddhas follow you 14th century as a dedication to Buddha. Cave, you’ll get a marvelous view of the with their eyes as you explore. Po Win Daung’s interior is decorated surrounding area from above.

46 ADVENTURE IN MYANMAR

Mrauk U Old Pagoda, Mrauk U If you’re looking for an authentic experience without hordes of tourists, visit ancient Mrauk U. Before you get too excited, know Mrauk U is

difficult to get to, and not an Contents easy day-trip from Mandalay.

History From 1430 to 1785, Mrauk U was the capital of the most powerful Rakhine

Kingdom in history. By trading and Overview plundering neighboring kingdoms with the biggest fleet in the region, Mrauk U built its rich empire. Many temples were erected during two golden centuries, where villages by boat. There, you’ll see the The Chin

Arakanese kings were protected by tattoo-faced women, and learn about People, Yangon samurais from Japan. their interesting history. There are On a visit to the The most remarkable temples only a handful of these women left: Chin villages, I spoke that still stand today are: Shite- in a few years, you’ll only hear their to one of the tattoo thaung Temple (the Temple of 80,000 stories, not meet them in person. faced Chin ladies. My guide translated Images), Htukkanthein Temple that to protect her Mandalay (Htukkan ), and the Life in Mrauk U from being stolen Koe-thaung Temple (Temple of When the Military Junta saw potential by marauders, her parents attempted 90,000 Images). in Bagan for tourism, thousands to make her “ugly of people who lived around and in and undesirable”. Things to do between the temples were displaced At the age of eight, You won’t need a motorbike to to new villages. her aunty tattooed

a spider web, Bagan In Mrauk U, people still live around explore the temples of Mrauk U, using a sharpened you can walk from temple to temple the temples, so you will see local bamboo stick, over without any trouble – unlike a trip to farmers, children playing in the fields, her face and even her eyelids. It took Bagan where you’ll need an e-bike and devotees going to pray. In Bagan, a week to finish or motorbike to get around. If you’d you’ll find tourists with selfie sticks her tattoo, and she prefer two wheels, your best option and pushy locals trying to sell you cried herself to Adventure would be to hire a cheap bicycle in anything they possibly can. sleep every night as the pain was so town. Perhaps a visit to Mrauk U might be unbearable. Take a simple day-trip up the Lay the cultural adventure you’re after, if Will Hatton, The Broke Backpacker Myo River from Mrauk U to the Chin a trip to Bagan was a disappointment?

47 Essential Myanmar’s medical infrastructure is still developing, without travel insurance Some covering you, it can be very costly Insurance Tips policies to get yourself the care you need, With the political situation can cover and even more so if you need to get still fairly uncertain, plus a evacuated to the nearest hospital – you if you lack of modern infrastructure so it’s a good idea to plan your trip travel to a in much of the country, accordingly. particular Contents there’re two main things Travel warnings also have region travelers need to bear implications on cancellation cover. that has a in mind while exploring While not all policies include cover government Myanmar: avoiding the for a change in government warnings warning numerous “do not travel” advising against travel, for those that against zones and Dengue Fever. do, it’s important to read through the travel, Overview exclusions. Events such as war and while other “Do not travel” zones terrorism are often general exclusions, policies Myanmar has experienced one of the and none of your expenses will be exclude any world’s longest-running civil conflicts covered if you can’t travel there, even if expenses (since 1948), with more than an it changes after you’ve bought a policy. that arise estimated 200,000 deaths as a result. Do your research before you buy to from your Yangon While the country has become much make sure there aren’t any surprises. travels more stable in recent years with the Common regions that many there. dissolution of the military junta and countries have flagged as "do not introduction of civilian government, travel" zones include: the military is still powerful. • Parts of including Mandalay In many areas of Myanmar, ethnic Maungdaw and Buthidaung townships tensions and armed conflict continues, (but not , or the resort areas at and this ongoing conflict can affect Ngapali Beach, and travel between your travel insurance coverage. the resort and Thandwe airport). Risks It’s important to read what you’re include armed civil unrest. covered for – before you end up off- • , parts of Chin State and the-beaten-track – as not all policies Northern and Central Shan State where Bagan are the same. there’s armed civil unrest and military Some policies can cover you if activity. you travel to a particular region that • The border areas with , , has a government warning against Thailand – including official border travel, while other policies exclude crossing areas, and the border areas Adventure any expenses that arise from your of and India where you travels there. This includes medical could be caught up among armed expenses and medical evacuation if civil conflict, drug smugglers, and you’re injured as a result of unrest. As landmines.

48 Dengue Fever Inle Lake A number of our travelers have reported contracting Dengue Fever after traveling to Myanmar, where it is found in various locations throughout the region. For most people, Dengue starts with flu-like symptoms, a high fever that Contents comes in waves, pain behind the eyes and/or severe headaches, muscle, joint, and bone pain, and a rash with red spots. If left untreated, it can progress to become Dengue Haemorrhagic

Fever (DHF) which can be fatal. Overview All of World Nomads' travel insurance policies can help cover your overseas medical expenses, including hospitalization if you’re traveling in the regions that your government, you need to call our assistance teams

or other official body (Centre of immediately. Our team can guide Yangon Disease Control (CDC) or World Health you to the most appropriate medical Organisation (WHO)) doesn’t restrict. facility, and in extreme situations, However, there are different limits evacuate you to suitable medical of cover that apply depending on the facilities. This may be to a close town policy that you purchase. Dengue can or city, nearby country, or back to your Mandalay see you end up receiving up to two own country. weeks' treatment, and the costs of As with all insurance, you won’t be care over that time period can add covered if you purchase a policy after up, so you may wish to consider that you begin to fall ill. Insurance is there before you buy a policy. to cover you for unforeseen illness – If you think you may have Dengue, not after the event. Bagan

All of the information we provide about travel insurance is a brief summary only. It does not include all terms, conditions, limitations, exclusions and termination provisions of the travel insurance plans described. Coverage may not be available for residents of all countries, states or provinces. Please carefully read your policy wording for a full description of coverage. WorldNomads.com Pty Limited (ABN 62 127 485 198 AR 343027) at Governor Macquarie Tower, Level 18, 1 Farrer Place, Sydney, NSW, 2000, Australia is an Authorised Representative of Cerberus Special Risks Pty Limited (ABN 81 115 932 173 AFSL 308461) and is underwritten by certain underwriters at Lloyd's. World Nomads Travel Lifestyle (Europe) Limited (CN 601852) markets and promotes travel insurance products of Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited (CN 601851), First Floor, City Quarter, Lapps Quay, Cork, Ireland. Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. WorldNomads.com Pty Limited markets and promotes travel insurance products of

Nomadic Insurance Limited (License No.1446874), at PO Box 1051, Grand Cayman KY1-1102, Cayman Islands. World Nomads Limited (05443592) is an Appointed Representative Adventure of Millstream Underwriting Limited (FCA Firm ref: 308584) at 52-56 Leadenhall Street, London, EC3A 2DX, United Kingdom. World Nomads Inc. (1585422), at 520 3rd Street, Suite 201, Oakland, CA 94607, plans are administered by Trip Mate Inc. (in CA & UT, dba, Trip Mate Insurance Agency) at 9225 Ward Parkway, Suite 200, Kansas City, MO, 64114, USA, with 24-hour and Assistance Services provided by One Call Worldwide Travel Services Network, Inc. and plans underwritten by Nationwide Mutual Insurance Company and affiliated companies, Columbus, OH. World Nomads (Canada) Ltd (BC: 0700178; Business No: 001 85379 7942 RC0001) is a licensed agent sponsored by AIG Insurance Company of Canada at 120 Bremner Boulevard, Suite 2200, Toronto, Ontario, M5J 0A8, Canada. World Experiences Seguros De Viagem Brasil Ltda (CNPJ: 21.346.969/0001-99) at Rua Padre João Manuel, 755, 16º andar, São Paulo – SP, Brazil is an Authorized Partner (Representante) of Zurich Minas Brasil Seguros S.A. (CNPJ: 17.197.385/0001-21) at Av. Getúlio Vargas, 1420, 5th floor, Funcionários, Belo Horizonte, State of Minas Gerais through the SUSEP Process 15414.901107/2015-77. All World Nomads entities listed above, including Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited and Nomadic Insurance Limited, are subsidiaries of nib holdings limited (ABN 51 125 633 856).

49 Contents

Yangon Overview

Thanks to our See our other guides contributors:

Anika Mikkelson Japan Insider's Guide Charlotte Rose With awe-inspiring Yangon Ed Salvato temples and world-famous Elisabeth Tuck cuisine, there’s plenty to love Emma Balmforth about Japan. Hannah Logan Mandalay Kristen Boatright Nepal Insider's Guide Nick Wharton From things to do in Pokhara and Nicola Donovan Kathmandu, to delicious dishes and trekking tips. Sergio Molino Aguado Taylor Lorenz

Will Hatton India Insider's Guide Bagan Watch the sunrise in southern India, or find solitude in the far northern Himalayas. Adventure World Cookbook Eat your way around the world with All images from iStock unless otherwise credited 22 delicious recipes.

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