Portrait of the Artist
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
EVENING STANDARD FRIDAY 19 SEPTEMBER 2014 101 Travel DETAILS: ESSEX Constable’s Constable: The county: Willy Making of a Lott’s House as Master seen in the Hay (September 20 to Wain (inset), January 11 2015), his most vam.ac.uk famous picture Milsoms and Maison Talbooth have Constable in Dedham breaks from £100 and £165 respectively per night B&B with three-course dinner, Constable map and entry to the Munnings Collection, milsomhotels. com ■ Visitessex.com PORTRAIT OF THE ARTIST IRDS twitter and the layers of As a new exhibition flanked by fields lies Flatford Mill, a landscape artist Thomas Gainsbor- ham. The parish church of St Mary is green — fields, hedgerows and sprawling redbrick structure also ough, Constable liked to include real home to an original Constable, The ancient trees — are dewy in the re-examining the owned by Constable’s father. It lies working people the land in his paint- Ascension, one of only three religious early morning sun. This adjacent to Willy Lott’s House — this ings. paintings to have been commissioned B unspoilt patch of north Essex paintings of grade I listed thatched cottage, named And although you could hold up for churches in his native Stour Valley. countryside, rubbing shoulders with after the tenant farmer who lived in it, many of his works and see the view is You can walk in and view the painting neighbouring Suffolk, is the area Constable starts at is now used as accommodation for field pretty much the same as he painted, hung modestly above a side door. known as Constable Country — after studies students. Constable liked to tinker with the truth, I stop for a long lunch at Le Talbooth. the Romantic painter John Constable, the V&A tomorrow, Several paintings immortalise this often removing or adding trees and There is no need for guilt among all who was so inspired by the bucolic rural corner including Flatford Mill figures. In the V&A exhibition you can this gluttony as Constable, like Gains- landscape of his childhood. It’s an Jo Fernández from a lock on the Stour, Scene on a spot the final version of the Hay Wain borough, wasn’t your classic impover- Essex far from the usual lairy cliché, Navigable River (Flatford Mill) and The lacks the boy on a horse (which can be ished artist. I’m sure he would have but just an hour from London. explores the Essex Hay Wain — Constable’s best-known seen on the full-scale oil sketch) while approved of the three-course feast I You could be in any century, as there work. The Leaping Horse sees the tree in the ate, sitting outside on a terrace by the is little of the modern world — bar the idyll that inspired It is worth remembering that before full-scale oil sketch move from the right river fringing the manicured grounds odd jutting pylon — to ruin the views of Constable the countryside was not to off-centre. (the low rumble of cars on the A12 qui- grassy meadows, chocolate-box much of his work considered to be an acceptable subject Dedham, a designated area of out- etly audible, but not detracting from villages and rolling farmland. Maison for serious painters, with set rules on standing natural beauty, lies at the the experience) involving crisp tem- Talbooth, a pleasingly pink 12-bedroom Bridge Cottage, once owned by his how nature should be depicted. Con- heart of the area where the artist grew pura of soft shell crab with a tangy Victorian country house in the heart father and then by the National Trust sidered by some to be dull and garish, up, walking to the town’s grammar pickled ginger and sardine dressing of the Vale of Dedham, affords us pam- since 1943, houses a small exhibition his work wasn’t popular for a long time school each morning alongside the and lemon meringue cheesecake. pered guests views across the very (mind your head on the low beams) but — except in France — he was only made River Stour from his family home in I find myself rolling — like the sur- fields and rooftops that Constable fea- is expanding this along with renova- a Royal Academician at the age of 53. East Bergholt. rounding countryside — to the car, tured in many of his paintings. Named tions to take the building back to how Undeterred and inspired by fellow local Many of his paintings feature Ded- ending my tour with a drive to Castle after English poets, lavish suites it would have been in his era. House. This lovely part Tudor/part include the spacious ground-floor Stand on the bridge here, across the Georgian pile was owned by artist Sir Keats with a terrace (dogs are allowed) River Stour that laps at the edges of Alfred Munnings, also the son of an graced with a hot tub and children’s much of this region, and survey all that East Anglian miller, who referred to it room with Xbox and PlayStation. inspired the artist, including Flatford as the “house of my dreams”. The warmest of staff whisk guests by Lock and the well-trodden footpath A lover of landscapes, inspired by Range Rover to its sister restaurant, Le stretching across the meadow to childhood visits to Flatford and the Talbooth, which appears in Constable’s Dedham (a 40-minute walk). work of Constable, he moved to Ded- The Vale of Dedham (and in my tour The adjoining teashop is now a well- ham in 1919. A prolific artist, after his of Constable sights later), which hangs designed glass box with a terrace open- death his wife opened the vast house in the Scottish National Gallery detail- ing onto the lock providing an almost and gardens to the public in 1961, ing the view from Gun Hill, where Le Disneyish effect in the sunlight with the revealing a body of some 650 pieces Talbooth is located, towards Dedham twitter of birdsong. Although I’m sure with subjects ranging from racehorses church near his father’s watermill (now many of the tea-drinking retirees here to war to Cornish coves. flats). This prompted Constable’s elec- were here as much for scone of the But this corner of England will forever tion to the Royal Academy. month — with delicious apples and be associated with Constable, revealing Nearby is the hamlet of Flatford, blackberries plucked from the hedge- landscapes that have changed little which features in much of Constable’s rows — than for the view. over 200 years. Nature has almost work. Cutely thatched 16th-century Further along the gently curving lane Fine art fare: Le Talbooth restaurant appears in Constable’s The Vale of Dedham stood still..