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NICE SURPRISE Known Highlights Will Show the French Thankfully, a Determined Group of 10 Centre to the Bellet Vineyards, but Pack Riviera Visitor

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NICE SURPRISE Known Highlights Will Show the French Thankfully, a Determined Group of 10 Centre to the Bellet Vineyards, but Pack Riviera Visitor destinationfrance 02 01 Le Negresco, a five-star hotel and Nice icon 02 Stop by Nice's port for some yacht spotting and antique shopping ttractions such as the sweeping more commonly served by waiters along sister-run Domaine de la Source. Château 01 Promenade des Anglais and the Cours Saleya. The urban location of de Bellet, with its atmospheric private atmospheric Italianate old this boutique appellation is unique in chapel-turned-tasting room, and Château town have long made Nice a France, yet its very existence remains de Crémat – allegedly the inspiration for Afavourite European escape in the sun. a well-kept secret from residents and Coco Chanel’s iconic interwoven ‘C’ logo Away from the waterfront, the city brims tourists alike. What was 1,000 hectares – offer two of the most comprehensive with an authentic charm that is lacking of vines in its 19th-century prime has visitor experiences. among her more glamorous neighbours, shrunk to 50 as contemporary real Monaco and Cannes, as these lesser- estate demands push land prices up. Good to know Bus 62 goes from Nice NICE SURPRISE known highlights will show the French Thankfully, a determined group of 10 centre to the Bellet vineyards, but pack Riviera visitor. producers are maintaining a viticultural your walking shoes as there are some tradition that includes the cultivation of distances to cover by foot. France’s fifth-largest city serves up some delightful off- DRINK Le Vignoble de Bellet two grape varieties not grown anywhere vindebellet.com the-beaten-track discoveries, as local resident Chrissie It’s the terraced vineyards of Bellet, else in the world (Braquet and Folle McClatchie shares. at the western edge of the city, that Noire). Sometimes that means wine is SHOP Le Quartier des produce the true local wine of Nice, not made in the backyard of the family home, Antiquaires the salmon-hued rosé from Provence such as at the charming brother-and- Juxtaposed against the sleek superyachts 74 signatureluxurytravel.com.au 75 destinationfrance destinationfrance 03 Château Saint-Martin & Spa, a luxury escape less than that line the docks of Nice port, the 30 minutes from Nice 04 The antique quarter is a treasure trove of charming fishing village of France’s most important astronomical Villefranche-sur-Mer 05 Nice’s souvenirs that tell a story, some even Italianate old town is a vibrant observatory in 1879. It’s a title that has small enough to fit in your suitcase. palette of pastel-coloured barely changed since, with a permanent Along with the more upmarket buildings 06 Château de team of 110 and an influence that is felt 05 Bellet’s pretty chapel-turned- boutiques that brim with statement tasting room around the world. Every Wednesday and pieces and one-off collectors’ items, Saturday afternoons the gates of the the real charm lies in browsing the 06 35-hectare estate are thrown open to Marché aux Puces (flea markets) on the public for a two-hour-long walking Place Robilante, where many of the tour. One of five cupolas, Gustave stallholders have spent up to two Eiffel’s main dome, may be closed for decades curating a collection of curios renovation until later in the year, but the to accompany an impressive assortment real stars of the show are the passionate of vintage chandeliers. In a lovely guides and that incredible view. meeting of old and new, the walls are decorated in colourful street art, Good to know The tours are in including the signature strokes of local French, but the guides can translate into favourite Patrick Moya. The art continues English along the way if required. at nearby Village Ségurane, where a oca.eu/fr blink-and-you’ll-miss-it entrance belies the Aladdin’s Cave of discoveries inside. STA Y Le Negresco This pink and white palace on the 03 Good to know At the Marché aux Promenade des Anglais has been a Puces, prices are displayed but gentle landmark of Nice since opening in 1913. bartering is accepted practice. 04 Each of its 100 rooms and 25 suites effortlessly blends the historic with the Where Place Robilante, rues Gautier, contemporary for a vibrant, ecelectic Ségurane, Philibert and Forestier. aesthetic. Its eccentric art collection is just as impressive, ranging from a EAT Restaurant Simon portrait of Louis XIV to Niki de Saint The 10-kilometre journey inland towards Phalle’s mosaic sculpture of Miles Davis. Restaurant Simon in Rimiez winds past and the menu is a lesson in regional VISIT Observatoire de la hotel-negresco-nice.com/en the Excelsior Régina Palace, Queen specialities done right; after all, they’ve Côte d’Azur Victoria’s address of choice during her had generations to perfect each recipe Surrounded by wild rosemary at the start Château Saint-Martin & Spa frequent visits to the French Riviera, here. Depending on the season, of the Grande Corniche, the highest Less than half-an-hour from Nice Côte and Les Arènes de Cimiez, where the classic dishes include les petits farcis of three parallel coastal roads that link d’Azur Airport in the hills of Vence, this ruins of a Roman amphitheatre sit (stuffed vegetables), beignets de fleurs Nice and Monaco, the purpose of Nice’s romantic château commands stunning alongside olive groves and the colourful de courgettes (fried zucchini flowers) observatory may be to study the sky views of the Mediterranean. While the originals that decorate the walls of and its signature petits ravioles maison above us, but from up here the views of 13.8-hectare estate dates back to the the Matisse Museum. In the shadow (handmade pasta), best enjoyed as an the city below are unbeatable. On clear 12th century and the Knights Templar, of Mont Chauve, the ‘bald mountain’ accompaniment to a rich, slow-cooked days the start of the Gulf of Saint-Tropez its design is chic and contemporary, that sits protectively atop the city, daube niçoise (beef stew). can be made out in the distance as, in and the 52 rooms and suites feature Restaurant Simon has been the table of the foreground, another plane comes those fabulous patterned textiles for choice for generations of niçois families. Good to know Save space for in to land at Nice’s airport. Charles which Oetker Collection is renowned. Whether seated on the vine-covered the array of indulgent homemade Garnier (of Paris’ Palais Garnier opera Michelin-starred cuisine and Spa Saint- terrace or in the sophisticated-yet-cosy patisseries; the selection changes daily. house fame) was the architect in charge Martin by La Prairie add extra touches of interior, the atmosphere is Sunday-best restaurant-simon.com of designing what was destined to be indulgence. oetkercollection.com 76 signatureluxurytravel.com.au 77.
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