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Sunday Times Travel October 2018 OCTOBER 2018 Sunday Times Travel 141

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Sunday Times Travel October 2018 OCTOBER 2018 Sunday Times Travel 141 ✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I ARTY NICE See & DO l Of the must-see art museums in l CHIC The Musée d’Art Moderne STREETS Nice, Musée Chagall (musee-chagall. et d’Art Contemporain (MAMAC, Place The Musée fr; £8.50; 9 ) is spellbinding in both Yves Klein; mamac-nice.org; 1 on Chagall is in individuality and scope. The first map) is Nice’s temple to 20th-century Nice’s ritziest French national museum to be area. After your art. Every major player, including visit, walk uphill designed by the artist it represents, Andy Warhol (the collection features to the Musée it was styled by Chagall to best present his sad rejection letters from New Matisse and check his ethereal works. The purpose-built out the Norman York’s MoMA), is exhibited across space focuses on his Message mansions and 10 light-filled salons. The £9 ticket Arabesque Biblique series, an angelic sea-blue also gives you entry to every municipal villas as you go dreamscape that fills the walls. art museum in town for 24 hours, including the Musée Matisse 2 , the l Les Abattoirs (50 Boulevard Musée des Beaux-Arts 3 and the Jean-Baptiste Vérany; 10 ) used to Théâtre de la Photographie 4 . be just that. Now the city’s starkly capacious slaughterhouse hosts l Madame Augier, the nonagenarian dozens of artist workshops, plus proprietor of Hotel Negresco on the an enviable exhibition schedule. Promenade des Anglais (hotel- Expect vast installations over its negresco-nice.com; 5 ), was feted 2,000 square-metre main hall, as Nice’s artsy matriarch by Pablo with a focus on plastics, metals Picasso and Salvador Dalí. Gain access and urban sculpture. to her art-filled ‘museum hotel’ by taking tea at Le Relais bar, or dine at its AL FREscO l The Théâtre de la Photographie VIBE two-Michelin-starred Le Chantecler. Outside, it’s et de l’Image (1 Place Pierre Gautier; Head past the reception into the Salon pavement cafe museephotographie.nice.fr; 4 ) is the Versailles to spy Hyacinthe Rigaud’s central. Grab an ne plus ultra of photography galleries. espresso or an ice portrait of Louis XIV, one of three in the cream and settle Recent retrospectives include Steve world. The original is in the Louvre; the down for a spot of McCurry (of the green-eyed Afghan other copy by Rigaud is at Versailles. people-watching Girl fame) and Henri Cartier-Bresson (the street photographer who snapped l Rue Défly is the street to stroll romance and war in 20th-century along if you’re looking for high-end France). Look out for the 19th-century galleries, ateliers and antiquaries. Nice view: looking shots from Charles Nègre, who And happily, it connects MAMAC with out over the city’s captured the washerwomen and Baie des Anges and the chic pavement cafes of Place the promenade; street urchins of pre-tourism Nice. Garibaldi. Try Monsieur Edmond below, Calder instant (at No. 2; 6 ) for vintage globes and sculpture at the l Hush-hush after-hours visits to Musée d’Art carpets, Line Lischa (at No. 5; 7 ) for major museums, night-time art Moderne; Jacob’s escapes ceramics, and Librairie Rabelais (at Dream at the walks and pop-up exhibitions — No. 4; 8 ) for first-edition art books. Musée Chagall that’s how Botoxs, a contemporary art foundation, shakes up the city’s art scene for in-the-know tourists. Its Facebook page details previews in 12 2 10 offbeat galleries and inside artists’ 9 apartments. Many events take place at the seafront Galerie de la Marine Arty Nice (59 Quai des Etats-Unis; 11 ). This glamorous city razzles and dazzles, with art at its very heart NICE 8 6 l The sprawling red mansion that 16 7 1 is Villa Arson has represented the A century ago, Nice’s fabled 300 days of sun a year bedazzled Matisse 21 cutting edge of Nice’s contemporary and Chagall. Pals, including Picasso and Dufy, stopped by to take in 24 27 23 art scene since 1972. It’s an art 25 20 14 17 13 university alongside a thriving 28 the scene. Their legacy is a thriving hub of contemporary galleries and 19 15 gallery space and magical gardens 4 22 ateliers, not to mention more museums than any French city outside 26 11 (20 Avenue Stephen Liégeard; 18 Paris. It’s the picture-perfect weekend… By Tristan Rutherford 3 5 villa-arson.org; 12 ). Check the ongoing creations in metalwork, N glass, woodcuts, digital art and 0 400m much else from its six international artists in residence. > 138 SUNDay TIMes TraVEL OCTOBER 2018 october 2018 SUNDay TIMes TraVEL 139 ✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I ARTY NICE Eat ROOFTOP bars l Local specialities l Panoramic pours LU Fran CALIN (Mains about £9) AQUA Bar Because: Chef Daniel Silvetti’s local Because: Nothing shouts South of dishes include the likes of chickpea France like a bottle of wine in a rooftop chips with pistou dip. Travel’s tip: locale. One of the best places to do it Silvetti recently submitted a dossier to here is the amazing Aqua Bar, atop the Unesco to protect salade Niçoise and Hotel Aston. Travel’s tip: Its £4 slugs 90 other regional recipes. Ask and he’ll of pastis come with Niçois nibbles. point you to the 19 Cuisine Nissarde There’s a tiny plunge pool, too. restaurants across town. 5 Rue Francis 12 Ave Felix Faure; 17 . Gallo; 00 33 4 9380 8181; 13 . l Rosé-tinted views l Med with a Japanese twist LA Terrasse L’Ecole DE NIce (Mains all £15) Because: For more sip-in-the-sky Because: Japanese chef Keisuke action, take a lift from the first-floor Matsushima won the Légion d’honneur AL FREscO lobby of Le Méridien up to La Terrasse. FILMS for his painstaking interpretations of La Terrasse has its Travel’s tip: Grab a bottle of Château Niçois cuisine. Travel’s tip: All main own rooftop Sainte Roseline, a superb Côtes de courses cost £15, so the £24 set dinner, cinema with Provence rosé, and watch the jets deckchairs with a wow-factor entrée and dessert, and wireless glide into the airport. 1 Promenades is great value. 16 Rue de la Buffa; 00 33 headphones. des Anglais; 18 . 4 9381 3930, lecoledenice.com; 14 . Recent showings included the l Red hot rooftop Bardot classic l Gourmet bargain Et Dieu Créa Terrasse DU PlaZA LUna Rossa (Mains about £21) la Femme Because: The Terrasse du Plaza at the Because: In a rarefied salon adorned Boscolo Hotel serves smoked salmon with graffiti canvases, expect modern wraps (£12) with Divines Restanques Italo-Niçois cuisine such as creamy white wine (£5). Travel’s tip: Go for macaroni with white truffles. Travel’s the rooftop lunchtime special — two tip: Regular 20%-off deals appear courses for £25. 12 Ave de Verdun; 19 . online on sites such as thefork.com. 3 Rue Chauvain; 00 33 4 9385 5566; 15 . Stay l Matisse’s seaside escape l Royal approval Get ME THere l Space-age fine dining ASK THE l Hip hostel Hotel BeaU RIVage (Doubles Hotel Negresco (Doubles GO INDEPENDENT FlaVEUR (Three courses from £79) LOCAL VIlla ST EXUPERY Beach (Doubles from £68, B&B) from £178, room-only) BA flies from four London airports plus Because: The Tourteaux brothers, Gaël Julie Thébaut works from £45, room-only) Because: Henri Matisse checked in here Because: The Queen, the Beatles Manchester to Nice from £56 return. and Mickaël, scooped their restaurant’s at the Oreva France Because: Each communal dorm and at Christmas in 1917. These days, the and the Shah of Iran have all SNCF (voyages-sncf.com) runs trains travel agency second Michelin star for artful dishes, private double room is dedicated to a Beau Rivage offers pillow menus BEach stayed here; the hotel has 117 art- from London St Pancras to Nice, with a BARGAIN such as Tobiko flying-fish eggs on painter, with lashings of art on the walls. plus lobby art from Niçoise designer Beau Rivage splashed rooms. Travel’s tip: Don’t quick change in Paris, from £130 return; a seaweed ‘crisp’. Travel’s tip: The This award-winning hostel sits opposite Stéphanie Marin. Travel’s tip: Staying Plage is one of miss the 16,309-crystal Baccarat the journey takes 9hr 30min. menu is fixed, but don’t worry. Go Rue Droite is where Niçois the city-central department store three nights or more? The Beau Rivage Nice’s hippest chandelier in the Royal Lounge. It was beach clubs. Hotel hungry and enjoy — you’re in safe artists have their ateliers. Galeries Lafayette. Travel’s tip: Take now rents sea-view apartments where commissioned by Tsar Nicholas II, who GO PACKAGED guests can bag hands. 25 Rue Gubernatis; 00 33 4 Each is like an interactive art gallery its free walking tour, which calls at the Matisse painted and stayed, from £116 a a lounger and was executed before he could take Escorted rail tour specialist Great Rail 9362 5395, restaurant-flaveur.com; 16 . where you can meet the painter Bernar Venet sculpture on Promenade night. 24 Rue Saint-François de Paule; parasol for a delivery. 37 Promenade des Anglais; Journeys (greatrail.com) has a luxurious C I discounted £18 WRITER’S at work. Sylvie T (14 Rue Droite; 20) des Anglais, plus Matisse’s ochre hotelnicebeaurivage.com; 26. hotel-negresco-nice.com; 5 . seven-day trip to Nice and the Côte FOODIE TIP l Two-Michelin-starred delight Just up the road at creates beautiful watercolours of mansion on the Cours Saleya.
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