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Home , Marano Lagunare, Monrupino, Mortegliano, Moruzzo, Muzzana del Turgnano, Province of Pordenone

HOW AND WHERE 01

To the discovery of the flavours of a unique region unique a of flavours the of discovery the To FOOD AND AND FOOD

Among gentle hills

Capriva del , Cormòns, , , , Gradisca d’Isonzo, Oslavia Rosazzo, Ruttars, , San Floriano del Collio, , Villanova di Farra 06

04

Regione 03 Among gentle hills

AUSTRIA AUSTRIA A land of famous all over the world, the Col-

Arta Terme lio features stretches of gentle hills covered in vines.

A23 Nature has created a unique scenery: the Isonzo river 02 to the east, the Judrio river to the west and the Julian Gemona to the north. del Friuli Europa Situated in the extreme eastern part of the region - in the - a few kilometres from Slo- San Daniele Cividale Piancavallo del Friuli del Friuli Regione 01 venia, the Collio is one of the best wine production Friuli Venezia Giulia SLOVENIA areas, one of the first that in 1968 obtained the De- Italia nomination of Controlled Origin. GORIZIA A28 A4 Aeroporto FVG The quality of the wines produced is the consequence A4 Ronchi dei Legonari of a perfect microclimate for the development of 05 VENEZIA highly qualified vine-growing: a mild and temperate SLOVENIA Lignano Grado climate, thanks to the presence of slopes that extend Sabbiadoro almost uninterruptedly along an ideal east-west line, All this allows to cultivate nearly two thousand hec- featuring wide areas facing south; moreover, the tares of specialized hillside vineyards that produce HOW TO GET THERE proximity of the Julian Pre-Alps constitutes an effec- wine of excellent quality, such as Pinot Grigio, Pinot tive shelter from the cold northern winds, while the Bianco, Friulano, Sauvignon, Ribolla Gialla, Caber- By car By plane By train proximity of the Adriatic coast - which on average is net Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Collio Motorways Regional Airport of Trieste www.trenitalia.it about twenty kilometres far - favours the summer Bianco (a DOC blend of grapes, which today is simply A4 Torino - Trieste 40 km from Trieste and Udine Call Centre 89.20.21 temperature ranges. called “Collio”). A23 Palmanova - Udine - Tarvisio 15 km from Gorizia A28 Portogruaro - Conegliano 80 km from Pordenone www.aeroporto.fvg.it

Design and Creation: Five Zone Udine _ Cartography: LAC Firenze _ Printing: La Tipografica - Basaldella _ English edition printed in march 2011 _ Texts by Agenzia TurismoFVG 07 Translation by: D’Agostini Organizzazione Dipartimento linguistico Dagoservice _ Photographs: Archivio TurismoFVG, Beltrame, N. Brollo, P. Bumbaca, A. Castiglioni, E. Calice, E. e S. Ciol, F. Gallina, M. Lavazza Seranto, M. Milani, L. Tessaro, M. Verin.

TOURIST INFORMATION

AGENZIA TURISMOFVG Villa Chiozza - Via Carso, 3 I - 33052 (UD) 01 Among gentle hills tel +39 0431 387111 / fax +39 0431 387199 02 [email protected] Along the 03 In the heart of Friuli 04 The enchanted valleys 05 The valleys of ancient flavours Discovery Card 06 A large village… 07 Trieste and the Karst

Along the Tagliamento Along the Tagliamento Among gentle hills

Food and wine 02 Friuli Venezia Giulia contains many microcosms, differ- But other excellent products will delight your palate: To discover these delights you can leave from Dolegna To the discovery of the flavours of a unique region ent as to morphology, traditions, language and dialect. the sweet ham from Cormòns, smoked in the fire of del Collio, a land of great wines, and reach Cormòns, And, as far as the cuisine is concerned, special and cherry and laurel wood, that is then left to “rest” for a nice Habsburg town, situated at the foot of Mount A journey to Friuli Venezia Giulia, a land of borders, where every year some of Europe’s best white wines unique seafood dishes are prepared. Your palate will be twelve months in suitable rooms, kept open all day Quarin characterised by a medieval maze of narrow mountains, hills, lakes and sea, combines the pleasure are produced. Some of the most renowned wine delighted with the farmed fish from the lagoon ofMa - long, or, a speciality for few, the red radicchio “Rosa alleys overlooked by splendid seventeenth-century of good food and wines with blooming, varied and farms and wineries are to be found from the slopes rano, among smooth clams, grey mullets, gilt-heads di Gorizia”, to taste the radicchio in its two varieties: and eighteenth-century buildings, around which the welcoming nature, with the addition of an age-old of Mount Bernadia, in Ramandolo, to the Karst stony breams, seabasses and eels, raised at low-density. the “Canarino”, canary yellow in colour and sweet, town centre develops. history, rich in languages and traditions ground, from the Tagliamento to , up to delicate but crunchy, and the “Rosa”, deep red in col- and preserving an important artistic heritage. the Malvasia vines that are reflected in the lagoon of Leave from the resurgence lands where the clear our with pinkish variegations and slightly bitter and During this tour make a detour to visit Ruttars and All this in one region. All this in a territory where, Marano. Along the Stella river flows, as far as the lagoon of Marano: in crunchy. Trussio that, from their castles, offer a panoramic in a few hours, you can pass from contemplating A territory of twenty thousand hectares, cultivated the lagoon water game is proposed, whereas view over the valley of the Judrio river. the horizon on the sea to admiring the magnificent with love by 1,500 farms that every year produce eighty in , in addition to fish, you will also find Moreover, thanks above all to the meeting of the cu- From Cormòns you can also reach San Floriano del mountains or the amazing view of endless stretches million valuable bottles. Here you will have the chance Tagliamento specialities based on goose. Among all these loca- linary traditions of Austria, Friuli and Slovenia, you Collio, passing through Oslavia, both municipalities of gentle hills covered in vineyards. to taste the Friulano and the Ribolla Gialla from the tions, you should definitely stop in Muzzana, which in From here you will enter a world where time seems will find dishes like goulash, blecs, zlikrof (a kind having microclimates favourable for vine growing. In It is a special land and the people here are unique. hills from Gorizia to Cividale, the Vitovska and the November stages Trifule in fieste, a festival entirely to have stopped, a paradise for bird watching enthusi- of stuffed ravioli), bread gnocchi, kipfel (small fried particular, San Floriano is rich in farms that produce There are some places where people are more from the Karst, the , the Pinot, the dedicated to the precious white truffle picked in the asts: the nature reserves of the Canal Novo valley and half-moons made with a dough similar to that of and export their wines throughout the world. reserved and other places where people are more Chardonnay and the Sauvignon that have been planted Ariis, , , , , , woods of the area. of the Stella river mouth. gnocchi), the repa garba and other typical sweets and Going back south, you will cross extrovert, but everywhere you will find the genuineness since the end of the nineteenth century. Passariano, , Rive d’Arcano, Rivignano, , Valeriano, cakes, such as putizza, pinza, strudel, krapfen and (visit the castle of Spessa with its magnificent park) and the respect for one’s own origins. Those who love red wines will find bottles of , palacinke Mossa Gorizia These values are the pride of Friulian people. Schioppettino, Pignolo and Tazzelenghe. Slightly more to the west there is and then The latter can be reached only by sea and unveils (an omelette that can be sweet or savoury, and to get to , called the Adriatic Nice And to discover the secrets of this land you will Lignano Sabbiadoro, the kingdom of relaxation and fun a surprise of extreme beauty: a village of reed and of old Greek- origin, then passed to the Austro- at the times of the Habsburgs. These places can boast food and wine products unique definitely have to taste the Ramandolo and the Picolit, A river that has marked the history of Friuli Venezia along their natural conductor: the Tagliamento, which where summer is more colourful than ever. Besides wood “casoni” huts, built as a shelter for fishermen. Hungarian tradition through ). Here, a powerful castle dominates the city, charac- in the world. You will be spoilt for choice. Among sweet two dessert wines, which are also considered great Giulia. And also its culture, lifestyles, language. One can be seen in all its beauty from the mount of Muris grilled squids and strigoli (a kind of pasta) with scampi, Among the many seafood specialities that are the re- terized by suspended atmospheres typical of a border and savoury food, wines and liqueurs, your senses will “meditation” wines. thing is certain: the large Tagliamento river will never di , enriched at its southern slopes by the you will also have the chance to taste the sarde in saôr. sult of a century-old experience, don’t miss the bisato These delightful products of the territory can be city. Central European influences are translated into have an unforgettable experience. The regional vine-growing and wine-producing stop amazing you due to the patterns it creates with castle of S. Pietro. Don’t miss Aria di Festa, the great in spèo, the eel on the spit. found in the restaurants of the province, in the cosy confectionery specialities, shared with Trieste, such From the Alps or from the coast: you choose where to territory comprises eight DOC (Denomination of its loops, its wide river bed, the vegetation that en- festival of the San Daniele ham that takes place on A labyrinth of islets of fascinating beauty introduces And then the brodetto, a dish in which fish is boned inns, in the characteristic privade that in spring open as favette, presnitz and putizza. start from. Friuli’s cuisine consists of local ingredients Controlled Origin) areas, Colli Orientali del Friuli, riches it. It flows through territories in which the food the last weekend of June in the town centre. the lagoon of Marano, which preserves a very pretty and sifted. their doors for the tasting of the new wine or the tast- enhanced by the ancient skills of people who, in the Collio, Carso, Friuli Isonzo, Friuli Aquileia, Friuli and wine tradition is characterised by dishes based Venetian-style old town centre. ing of the old wine or at one of the town festivals that To best enjoy the beauty of the Collio, the best solu- kitchen, had to do what they could in certain periods of Annia, Friuli Latisana and Friuli Grave and two DOCG on pork meat and sausages, by the delicious ham In Villanova you will find the“Regina di San Daniele” enliven the region from May to September. tion is to cross it renting a Vespa scooter, thanks to history. Wits sharpened by need have given life to such (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin) from San Daniele del Friuli, by excellent cheeses and (Queen of San Daniele): a trout bred in the fresh and the “Collio in Vespa” initiative that allows to discover good flavours that are still today’s protagonists, just as areas, Ramandolo and Picolit. by the smoked trout. oxygenized waters of the Tagliamento, then hand- this wonderful area on two wheels. they were yesterday: Friuli Venezia Giulia is a garden of boned and smoked. delights for all gourmets. Plenty of tasty products not Your journey into taste can follow the most varied Leave from Venzone, where the local dairy produces From here westwards you will see gentle stretches Going south, you will get to the plain crossed by the only on your plate, but also in your glass. itineraries, depending on the season, on the climate, on excellent cheeses, ice cream and ricotta: in October, of hills: in Arcano Superiore a fascinating castle waters of the Isonzo, that gives the name to the ho- The territory of Friuli, in fact, is a large vineyard your wishes and on your curiosity. You will be surprised for the Pumpkin Festival, the town’s paved alleys and watches over a borough where organic wine and oil monymous DOC (Denomination of Controlled Origin) lying between the mountains and the sea, a paradise by special places and a special welcome. the palaces enriched by double lancet windows shine are produced. area; a territory that, thanks to the existing microcli- with a special light, that seems to come from the Mid- mate, favoured by the proximity of the sea, is particu- dle Ages and from the Renaissance. In Codroipo, in the hamlet of San Martino, there is an larly suitable for vine growing. interesting collection of period carriages from all over Going downhill and passing with the hill that Europe and in Passariano the splendid Villa Manin, Passing through the Slavic-speaking municipality of features a national monument fortress, you will skirt the residence of the last doge of . d’Isonzo you will reach Gradisca d’Isonzo, the Nature Reserve of the Cornino lake, where the a fortress-town built by the Venetians at the end of magnificent griffon vultures nest. Passing through , rich in fas- the fifteenth century to stem the menace of the Turk- cinating rural boroughs, you will reach Varmo, where ish invaders. It is a fascinating town, to be crossed You will then get to San Daniele del Friuli, the land of dishes enriched with the herbs of the Tagliamento preferably on foot to enjoy its sights and boroughs, the homonymous ham. Its deliciousness is due to the are proposed, and Rivignano, where you can taste the where you can find small antique shops and old inns meeting between the fresh mountain air and the mild fried fish from the lagoon. In these areas you will also and wine bars, among which the Regional Winery “La air coming from the , which get mixed have the chance to taste game and fowl. Serenissima”. DOP San Daniele ham DOP Montasio cheese DOP Tergeste olive oil 03 04 05 06 07

The valleys In the heart The enchanted of ancient A large Trieste of Friuli valleys flavours village… and the Karst

Anduins, , , , , Fiume , , , Aquileia, , Cervignano, Chiopris Viscone, Clauiano, Colloredo di Monte Albano, , Godia, , , Colloredo di Soffumbergo, , , Porzûs, , , , Camporosso, , , , Malborghetto, , , Duino Aurisina, , , Opicina, Pieris, Prepotto, , , Poffabro, Pordenone, San Giorgio della Richinvelda, San Martino al Tagliamento, Grado, Manzano, , Palmanova, San Martino, Strassoldo, , , Udine Ramandolo, Spessa, , , , , Tarvisio, Tolmezzo, , , Sistiana, Trieste , , , Spilimbergo, Valvasone, Vito D’Asio,

In the heart of Friuli The enchanted valleys The valleys of ancient flavours A large village… Trieste and the Karst

Let’s take the geographic centre of the region, follow- The Natisone and the Torre: two watercourses that From here, going in the north-east direction, you will These are places to be discovered with the slow reveals a charming world: a large “village” Fruit, then, is used for homemade specialities, such as Trieste is a charming city, a pearl on the Adriatic with ing a route that starts a little north of Udine, to dis- create charming patterns in the valleys to the north- reach the caves of Villanova, ’s largest caves of rhythms of the life of the past. with seven valleys that furrow the , on the syrups of sea-buckthorn and of dandelion, apple juice Piazza Unità d’Italia, Europe’s largest square overlook- cover Friuli’s typical cuisine. east of Udine, on the border with Slovenia. their kind, an authentic symposium of stalactites and Because Pordenone and its valleys are expressed border with Austria and Veneto. and jams. And don’t forget the borlotti beans from ing the sea. The region’s chief city, a world suspended They cross magical woods, they accompany the baths stalagmites thanks to which you will get to know the with a unique mix of rural buildings, clear waterways, Carnia, the Formadi frant, the Garlic from Resia, the between the past and the future, with contrasts and We can begin, for instance, from an irresistible of the Krivapete, the witches with rearward feet that bowels of the earth. picturesque towns and green woods, to be admired Typically Friulian fragrances, flavours as ancient as Ont (melted butter), mushrooms, wild fruits, moun- peculiar characteristics, such as its food and wine cheese delight: frico. Of very ancient production, populate the legends of the Natisone valleys. through ever-changing glimpses depending on the the seven valleys that characterize this verdant re- tain honey, the polenta cornmeal from Carnia and the heritage, its well-established science research activity it comes in the crunchy or soft versions, in which it They follow the course of the seasons, witnessing the Always watched over by the Musi Mounts you can observational perspective. gion, Carnia, with its cuisine born out of the poor and savôrs, a tasty mix of minced vegetables packed in and also its bora, the wind that on some winter days takes the form of a pie prepared with potatoes, apples birth of the products of the land that the local cui- almost get to the border with Slovenia, discovering The alluvial soils, similar to steppes, are mainly stony genuine ingredients of the mountains, with which glass jars. Many are the routes to be followed to dis- blows at a speed of 120-150 Km/hour. or herbs as well. You can taste it in Tricesimo, a little sine has always used wisely. For instance, wild herbs, towns that look like Nativity scenes, such as , and gravelly. They are called Magredi, because they already in the past the Carnic housewives used to cover the cuisine, art and history of this territory. north of Udine, surrounded by towns rich in castles, mushrooms, truffles, chestnuts and apples, with or places where important historical events resound, are made up of poor (magro) soil, poor in nourish- combine, through peculiar matches, spices, nuts and Leaving from the eastern part of the city of Trieste, historic villas and boroughs immersed in the green of which tempting strudels are made. such as those of the partisan fights of the Second ing substances and very dry. In fact, in spite of the oriental aromas. just on the border with Slovenia - you can visit Mug- charming stretches of hills, such as , Trep- World War in Porzûs. high concentration of rain, the great permeability of gia, a town characterised by an old town centre sur- po Grande, Buia, and Fagagna. the ground causes the immediate dispersion of the Travelling in these lands that have preserved colour- rounded by medieval walls, dominated by the Castle Here, besides a tasty cheese, the curious pestât is In Colloredo di Monte Albano, then, there is the fa- And then go down to Attimis, with the Medieval Ar- water that resurfaces downstream, in the area of the Here specialities are born, which are the result of an- ful folklore and charming nature unspoilt, it will seem (built in 1375) and the basilica of the Assunta (10th also prepared: a dressing made with scented herbs mous castle in which Ippolito Nievo wrote “Le Confes- chaeological , and Faedis, areas featuring resurgences. This soil has formed over the millennia cient skills that in the past had to manage everyday that you can still smell the scent of the spices of the cent.), which stands on the hill above the small har- and excellent lard. sioni di un Italiano”. charming castles and fortresses. Going east, you will from deposit material of the rivers Meduna, Cellina life without many resources. cramârs, the “door-to-door salesmen” of that time, bour and which features interesting Romanesque re- get to Cividale del Friuli, Julius Caesar’s Forum Iulii, and Tagliamento. who between the sixteenth century and the nine- liefs and frescoes. Among the many specialities worth Descending from Tricesimo towards Udine, a detour from which the name “Friuli Venezia Giulia” derives. The presence of the stones - the “grave” - which The pitina (also called petuccia, petina, peta) was teenth century crossed the Alps and reached the Ger- tasting in , the scampi a la busara, cooked with on the left will lead you to : in the And, in the capital city of Italy’s first Lombard duchy, get smaller as one approaches the seaside, ensures born in the nineteenth century from the need to pre- man-speaking countries to sell spices and textiles. tomato and Malvasia Istriana. hamlet of Ribis - like in Godia, in the Municipality of you will find lots of marvels to be discovered: from the constant climatic conditions, thanks to their natural serve the game meat that could not be eaten immedi- Here, wild herbs are used to enrich first courses, Before getting to Trieste, pass through the Rosan- Udine - it is possible to buy excellent white potatoes Lombard Temple to the National Archaeological Mu- aptitude to accumulate heat during the day to then ately. Meat balls were made and were then sprinkled omelettes and second courses to delight one’s palate. dra Valley, where it is possible to follow routes on ideal for gnocchi and soups. A curious aspect: in Fri- seum, from the Celtic Hypogeum to the Devil’s Bridge. release it during the night; an important factor for with polenta flour and put under the hood of the fire- foot to the discovery of wonderful landscapes and to ulian “potato” is also called “cartufule”, in assonance grape ripening. In fact this territory is rich in vines, place: juniper wood was used to smoke them. Delicacies to suit all seasons (and all tastes), sa- taste excellent products, such as the salmon from with the German Kartoffel. The town of Cividale is the location of the Consorzio grown by the peoples that, over the centuries, have Today sheep or mutton meat is increasingly used, voy and radic di mont (mountain chicory) in winter, Those who come from south, before getting to Tol- the Rosandra Valley and the famous Tergeste extra- dei Vini DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli (Consortium of come after one another in this wide plain. minced and mixed with salt, pepper and wild fennel. pumpkin in autumn, asparagus and sclopit in spring mezzo, by making a detour on the left will reach Ver- virgin olive oil, obtained from the cultivation of the On the edge of Udine is Tavagnacco, where delicious The cake that is the symbol of Friuli Venezia Giulia the DOC - Denomination of Controlled Origin - Wines The wines produced have peculiar characteristics: It can be eaten in many ways: sliced and eaten raw, and in summer. And even lavender and elder flowers. zegnis, a place where old legends resound. native Bianchera (survived to the 1929 frost thanks to white asparagus is produced; together with that of is born in the Natisone valleys: the gubana, made of from the Colli Orientali del Friuli), whose territorial fresh, fruity, elegant in the white varieties and round, grilled or cooked in polenta broth. Herbs are also used to prepare the cjarsons, a typi- the Karst farmers) that has recently led to the estab- Fossalon di Grado, it is celebrated in several spring leavened dough and featuring a typical snail shape. limit includes the hilly strip of the , full-bodied, scented in the red varieties. The “Grave” cal regional dish consisting of semi-sweet ravioli Don’t miss a visit to the lake, the Art Park and the lishment of the Tergeste DOP (Denomination of Pro- taurants it is possible to taste - at all times - various festivals. Its filling is very tasty, with raisins, pine nuts, walnuts namely, starting from north, the municipalities of give the name to the region’s largest DOC (Denomina- The Asìno cheese, on the other hand, from the area filled with various herbs or potatoes, with a mixture archaeological excavations: this town, in fact, is one tected Origin). The most suitable area for the produc- products such as the porcina (boiled pork coppa - a and, according to the different recipes, grappa, sliwo- Tarcento, Nimis, , Attimis, Faedis, the east- tion of Controlled Origin) area, which extends in the of and Vito d’Asio, is a white cheese made of raisins and sometimes even chocolate, which, after of the oldest in Carnia. tion of this oil is that of San Dorligo/Dolina, an area cut of meat from the neck) or Trieste’s cooked ham We are in the province of Udine and special attention Udine, now, is very near: it will welcome you with its vitz, honey, candied fruit and almonds. The strucchi, ern zone of Cividale, , Prepot- western part of Friuli Venezia Giulia, from the pied- with cow’s milk. cooking, are seasoned with melted butter and cin- called breg, between the Rosandra Valley and the sea, accompanied by mustard or kren (horseradish root). should be given to pork and to its by-products: first ancient squares, the elegant palaces, the paintings by biscuits derived from the filling of the gubana, are to, , Buttrio, Manzano, San Giovanni al mont to the seaside, and is bounded by the course It owes its unmistakable taste to the process of salt- namon; each family and each restaurant can boast a After Tolmezzo, embellished by historic palaces and by on the hills that surround Muggia as well as in other One cannot fail to mention Piazza Oberdan, the arrival of all, the salami from Friuli, produced with selected Giambattista Tiepolo, the warm taverns where you can made here too. If matched to the magnificent native Natisone, Corno di Rosazzo, for a total of over 2000 of the Tagliamento river and by the border with the ing in the “salmuerie”, brine aged in wooden vats that jealously guarded personal recipe. the “Michele Gortani” Carnic Museum of folk arts and locations on the coast, up to the cliffs of Duino. point of the historic tramway line, whose track pro- meat mixed with lard and spices, on the basis of old drink a good glass of wine, in Friulian called “tajut”, sweet wines from the Colli Orientali del Friuli (Fri- hectares of vine-covered land. Veneto region. makes the product tastier. traditions, you will have a wide range of possibilities. vides a wonderful panoramic view over the gulf of Tri- recipes that every pork-butcher preserves with great and restaurants in which you can taste dishes that are uli’s Eastern Hills), such as Picolit and Ramandolo, In a few kilometres you will get to Trieste and the best este, which goes up the climb of Scorcola as far as the care, sausage, soppressa, bacon, lard, the Marcun- the expression of the cuisine of the whole province of even the hardest to please will be satisfied! After passing and Invillino with the ear- starting point is the hill of San Giusto, the location of of Villa Opicina where you can proceed dela (minced liver, spleen, kidneys and lungs), mu- Udine, from the San Daniele ham to the smoked trout, ly medieval parish church of St. Mary Magdalene, pro- the first Roman settlement, where the old Tergeste along a panoramic road, which can be followed on setto, usually matching the Brovada. from the cooked goose ham to the polenta with lard Delicious products are not obtained from grapes only: ceed towards to climb to Sauris, the highest lay, with the homonymous Castle that houses the foot only (commonly known as “Napoleonica” or “Vi- and ricotta. “Friuli DOC”, a real showcase of the whole from the olives picked on the gentle slopes of the municipality in Friuli Venezia Giulia. A green lake and Municipal Museum: from up here you will enjoy a centina”), that leads to Prosecco. Besides the meat, The Brovada is prepared in a particular way: the tur- regional food and wine offer, takes place in the centre Colli Orientali del Friuli hills, in fact, an extraordinary enchanting Alpine buildings introduce a valley where breathtaking view over the whole city, from the hills here, ask for the peoci, that is to say, mussels (those nips are carefully washed and arranged in layers al- of Udine on the second weekend of September. extra-virgin oil is obtained, the result of the pressing a language of German origin is spoken and where to the sea. The beautiful views continue: descending “a la scotadeo” are delicious), the caperozzoli (clams) ternated with marc coming from red grapes of the with millstones. the famous Sauris ham is born, smoked like the os- towards the coast, you will get to Piazza Unità d’Italia, and the sardoni (anchovies), the most widespread in region, left to ferment from one to two months and, Going south, on the other hand, you will find Pavia socollo, the culatello, the speck, the salami and the where you will be charmed by neoclassical buildings the gulf: try the “sardoni in savor”, fried anchovies finally, taken away from the marc, peeled, cut in chips di Udine. The location is enriched by wonderful villas Leaving from the Torre valleys, in Tarcento you will cotechino produced here. Going back, you will have next to elegant cafés, which in the past were fre- marinated with vinegar and onion. and cooked. with barchesse (outhouses), such as the seventeenth- be fascinated by the Liberty villas and by a charming the chance to discover the wide range of dairy prod- quented by outstanding personalities of the Central century Villa Lovaria, Villa Florio (in Persereano) and route on the Torre stream. ucts of the Val Tagliamento Dairy of and of European culture. Besides the famous literary cafés The wonderful area of the Karst is worth discovering Villa Beretta (in Lauzacco). the Val Degano Dairy of Ovaro. situated in the city centre, in the typical buffet res- along the road of the Terrano wine that, together with

In the heart of Friuli The enchanted valleys The valleys of ancient flavours A large village… Trieste and the Karst

decades-long Goose Festival, celebrated in the same The wines produced in this area are the result of a If, on the other hand, you want to taste the cheese Then, going east, in Clauzetto you will have the Before getting to this town, however, in Raveo you can the Malvasia and Vitovska white wines, is a gem of sible to find some osmizze open: you will just have to period also in Lavariano di Mortegliano, and dedi- particularly favourable terroir, that is to say, the com- and smoked ricotta made in the malghe (shepherd’s chance to visit the Green Caves of Pradis, in Anduins taste the typical and crunchy “Esse” biscuits, called in the wine production of these lands. look for the leafy branches along the road. cated to new wine as well. bination of soil, climate, vine. The pedoclimatic con- huts) and see the sources of the Gorgazzo, north of the sulphur springs and, more to the north, the fas- this way because of their shape. The Karst soil mainly consists of limestone that, be- In Mortegliano, in the town with Italy’s highest bell ditions have allowed the cultivation of native vines, (that is also the location of the Museum cinating Tramontina Valley, where a peculiar special- cause of its permeability, has given rise to a unique In Monrupino, where cheeses are enriched with wild tower, the blave di Mortean is born out of native vari- which here have been cultivated since time immemo- of culinary art), you can leave from the pied- ity is made: the formai tal cit, prepared with chopped After , you will discover and Karst phenomenon whose most relevant aspects are fennel or with savory (zepek), a wild plant of the pla- eties of maize, coming from cobs selected manually. rial, as well as of other varieties coming from various mont, almost on the border with the Veneto region. cheese - coming from not perfectly amalgamated the Farie di Checo, a fifteenth-century blacksmith the dolinas and the caves. For this reason the Karst teau, taste the sheep’s milk ice cream. Moreover, the This flour constitutes the base for a delicious polenta, areas of Europe that have adapted well producing re- rounds of cheese - covered with milk, cream and nat- forge. Then Sutrio, renowned for wood working, and soil is dry and difficult and cultivating the vine means Monte Re cheese (Nanos in Slovenian) is born here always present on Friuli’s tables on holidays. And in markable results in terms of quality. Going up north you will arrive in Montereale Valcellina, ural flavours. Stirred until creating a thick cream, it , with its medieval Moscarda Tower. tilling the soil in order to make it fertile and, at the and today is produced in one dairy only: the tradition the past it was the only everyday “bread”. from which you will enter, precisely, Valcellina. You will was preserved in a stone container: the cit. Descending to Arta, let yourself be cuddled at the same time, favouring the development of the organo- of its preparation seems to date back to the Austro- In Villa Vicentina, on the other hand, you will have the The native vines cultivated in the Colli Orientali del therefore discover Barcis, with its lake characterised Spa with the sulphurous water of the Pudia spring, leptic qualities that differentiate these wines from the Hungarian period. chance to taste the dried cod and, going more south, Friuli area are Malvasia, Picolit, Pignolo, Refosco dal by emerald green reflections, , with its typi- Going downhill again, you will find Sequals, famous already known at the times of the ancient Romans. rest of Friuli Venezia Giulia’s production. you can visit Aquileia, a world heritage site owing to Peduncolo Rosso, Ribolla Gialla, Schioppettino, Taz- cal wooden balconies and the Ethnographic Museum, because – a world heavyweight cham- Visit the eighteenth-century Karst House, with the its precious Roman and early Christian finds. zelenghe, Tocai Friulano and Verduzzo Friulano. , one of the accesses to the Friulian pion from 29th June 1933 to 14th June 1934 – was Don’t forget, finally, to go toTarvisio , in the Canal Val- Thanks to the commitment of the tenacious local pro- interesting ethnographic museum. The tradition of Descend a little more and you will arrive in the town Nature Park, the largest park in the region, where you born here on 25th October 1906. ley, the most eastern town of the province. ducers, to the high planting density, to yield reduc- cheese production has given rise to a consortium of shaped like a nine-pointed star: Palmanova. A jewel Finally, Grado, where an elegant beach frames a pre- From Cividale, it will be very simple to reach the mag- From , follow the border as far as Tribil and can discover an unusual 300-metre rock pinnacle: the tion, to the wine fining in wooden barrels and to the producers called Moisir (from “moj sir”, “my cheese” of Friuli’s military architecture, it was fortified at the cious Venetian-style old town centre: don’t miss the ical Natisone valleys: in Pulfero stop to visit the cave- then reach Stregna, to taste dishes such as the me- Campanile (bell tower) of the Montanaia Valley. More to the south you will find Spilimbergo, a fas- Its territory comprises well-known ski facilities pedoclimatic conditions, the wines produced seem to in Slovenian). Most of these products are not pasteur- end of the sixteenth century by the Venetians to de- famous boreto a la graisana: it is not a fish soup but sanctuary of San Giovanni d’Antro, taste the local derjauka (soup of matricaria) and the nettle gnocchi. cinating town enriched by the thirteenth-century ca- (in particular the famous “Di Prampero” ski run, on every year on 5th December in all the hamlets of the represent the determined and strong character of the ized to maintain the bacterial load intact and enhance fend the extreme eastern boundary from the Turk- a second course, made with turbot or with a mix of goat’s milk cheeses and the specialities of Slav tradi- Just outside Erto e Casso, overlooked by narrow and thedral and by the castle in which the painted Palace the Monte Santo di Lussari) that for some years has Tarvisio area, and an event dedicated to all gourmets, local inhabitants. the botanical richness present in the fodder used to ish raids. This location, like the near municipalities different fish. tion: palacinke, šlicinjaki (a kind of flour dumplings), From here, you should definitely stop in the medieval long houses, you will see the dam, which staged stands out. Here you will find traditional sausages been staging the Women’s Alpine Skiing World Cup. Ein Prosit in Tarvis, that for over ten years, at the end An example thereof is the Terrano, a red wine with feed the animals. of Aiello and Chiopris Viscone, is well-known for the štakanije (mashed potatoes and season vegetables). borough with the Sanctuary of Castelmonte, in the the well-known disaster of 1963. In these areas you and the salami “punta di coltello”, dried cod and of November, has been staging the élite of the wine low alcoholic content and marked acidity, not loved by production of goose specialities, such as salami, raw An opportunity to enjoy the unspoilt beauty of the la- On the other hand, going to Drenchia, climb on the municipality of Prepotto, a famous pilgrimage desti- can taste the filon, boned lean loin, rubbed with salt, sweet-and-sour green asparagus. And remember the best known folk festival: the fes- production and the greatest chefs of Europe. everyone but that wonderfully matches the food of the Besides the cheeses, on the plateau you can find the ham, cooked ham, speck and smoked breast. goon of Grado and all its typical products is the event panoramic ridge of Mount Kolovrat, which staged nation from which you can enjoy a breathtaking view. pepper and herbs and smoked with beech or juniper tival of St. Nicholas (and the Krampus) that is held local rural tradition, such as pork meat and the jota (a lamb, usually raised in the open air; thanks to the However, don’t forget that Laguna Golosa (Tasty Lagoon), which takes place in hard battles during the First World War. wood. The brusaula (or “pindulis”), on the other hand, Proceeding south, you will discover Valvasone, with traditional soup of beans and sauerkraut). Karst herbs it feeds on, the meat of the Istrian lamb (in the ) in November stages a the first week of September of every year. consists of strips of lean meat, cured and dried. its town walls and castle, its medieval houses and is very tasty. Do not miss a visit to the spectacular wonderful palaces. Following the road of the Terrano wine, you will arrive Grotta Gigante (Giant Cave): the largest tourist cave Getting back, after a visit to Maniago, the town of in Prepotto, where the Jamar cheese is produced, left in the world. cutlery works, enter the Colvera Valley: you will be You will shortly get to Casarsa della Delizia: you will to mature for at least four months on the bottom of a welcomed by the network of alleys and the wood and discover the town of ’s mother, in Karst cave (which in Slovenian is called “jama”). In Padriciano, on the other hand, you will have the stone houses of Frisanco and of Poffabro, which has a land that inspired the vibrating poems in Friulian chance to play on the greens of a panoramic Golf been ranked among Italy’s most beautiful towns. language by this great author. After Samatorza and going towards Sgonico visit the Club and in the Rosandra Valley you will follow routes Carsiana Botanic Garden, with over a thousand spe- that lead to the discovery of a Roman aqueduct and of cies of plants. This area is rich in farm restaurants amazing natural settings. and osmizze, marked by leafy branches hung along the road. Between Monfalcone and Ronchi dei Legionari, then, The word osmizza, osem, is of Slovenian origin and gourmets will enjoy stewed cuttlefish and spaghetti means eight, as eight were the days on which once with smooth clams. these facilities could be kept open for sale. In these small rustic paradises (that often overlook Going more east, past the coast characterised by the sea) one can taste, besides the above-mentioned white cliffs, you will find the fascinating castles of Dui- Jamar, the other products from the Karst: pickles, no and of Miramare. The latter was built by Maximil- raw ham from the Karst, typical cheeses accompa- ian of Habsburg between 1856 and 1870. The Prince nied by the Morello honey, widespread in the area, the lived there for some time with his consort Charlotte porcina, homemade bread... everything accompanied of Belgium before leaving for Mexico where, after be- by a glass of Terrano or of aromatic Vitovska, obtained coming Emperor, he was shot in 1867. The park that from the homonymous white grape vine. surrounds the castle is spectacular because of the Today the opening periods are less strict than in the variety of plants that make up an inestimable arbo- past and almost in every period of the year it is pos- real heritage.