Topo-Kalymnos.Pdf
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MUNICIPAL TOURIST ORGANIZATION OF KALYMNOS. ( fin October 2005 ) KALYMNOS Rock climbing sectors & routes. LOCALISATION TO MOST OF MAIN SECTORS The white cubic pilars, along the main road, indicate the beginning of the paths to most of the climbing sectors. They also have useful information how to proceed the climbing area such as walking time and color used for marking the path. The stars * indicate the quality of the routes. * good ** very good *** excellent. USEFUL TELEPHONES. 22430 29301 Police 22430 24444 / 29304 Port Atithorities 22430 23025 / 166 Hospital 22430 50300 Taxi Station 22430 59056 Tourist Information. 22430 59445 Climbing înfo desk ATTENTION. Rock climbing on Kalymnos is under your own responsibility. Climbers are responsable for taking all necessary safety precautions. SECTEURS DE KALYMNOS ( Du nord au sud ) Styx Emborios SYKATI Kreissal SYKATI Thalassa 1- Baby house Palace Skalia pillar 2- Ghost kitchen 3- Cave 4- Nenuphar 5- Archi & balcon helvetic RINA Grey zone Sea breeze 6- Summer time 7- Kasteli (fort) 8- Odyssey 9- Ocean dream Iliada Muses 10- Jurassic park 11- Spartacus Afternoon 12- Grande grotta Panorama Kalydna Ianis Poets Zeus Gerakios Eros St constantine Telendos north Mystere Ouriana Symblegades Petres 13- Austrians Mantres 14- Monastery St Fotios Prophet Ilias Dodoni Sea Museum Paradise beach Rina Cross 1) STYX . Access : 100m to the left of « François Guillot ». Use the 4) SOPHIE . same path. Access : The same as for Kreissaal and a few minutes to the Routes : right, kastri (fort). 20min total time 1. Inuendo œ 6c 22m *** Routes : 2. Waiting for the sping œ 6b 22m *** 1. Project œ 30m 3. Leningradcowboys of America œ 6b 22m 2. Sophie œ 6a 20m 3. Fatolitis œ 7b 25m 4. Project œ 25m 5. Betty Bop œ 6c 32m 2) EMBORIOS . (françois Guillot) Access : At the last turn beforethe village of Emborios, you 2) SYKATI . ( except. Abyss-cave, without rouf) meet the white pillaron right which indicates the biginning of Access : (Same departure as for Skalia pillar) In the direction the path to « kreissaal ». Follow the red marks for 15 min of emborios, 200m after Skalia, take the dirt road on the you first meet Kreissaal (close to an ancient wall) continue right until uphill. walking to your left for 10 min (south facing wall with To the top and towards a kind of little church, you will have corners and chimney). a panoramic views on turkey and the islands north. Routes : Continuing downwards for about 400m to the first major 1. Coloria œ 6c 27m *** switchback, you will see on the left the U-bay of sykati with 2. I love kalymnos œ 6b 27m *** it‘s lonely beach. Let your locomotion near the farm- 3. Guillot corner œ 5c 45m ** enclosure. From that place it‘s about 30/40min to the abyss- 4. Music of rock œ 6b 25m ** cave. 5. Loutraki œ 6c 25m *** Looking the sea, you will find, on your left (NorthWest), 3 6. Select œ 6c 30m ** old houses stayed in place from the last war. 7. Andros œ 6a 30m ** Reach the third-one. You still need to cross two ridges by staying at the same level and following the red points on the dirt track. The descent in the hole is done by the seaside short lips (20m 3) KREISSAAL . œ 4a œ rope using) Access : The first part of the access for françois Guillot. Routes : (south facing wall with horizontal cracks). 1. Où est l‘équipe œ 7b 25m *** Routes : 2. Laurent…Y‘a quelqu‘un ? œ 7c+ 40m Left part (très engagé) 1. In the mood for love - 6b 18m *** 3. Lolita œ 45m 2. Little Leo - 5a 30m *** 1t SL œ 7a 25m Main wall 2d SL œ 8a 20m 3. Lea-5a 30m *** 4. MorganAdam est une Andalouse œ 75m 4. Ovulation œ 5c 30m 1t SL œ 7c 25m 5. Climax œ 6a 30m 2d SL œ 8a 7m 6. Embryo œ 6a 30m 3d SL œ 8b 43m 7. Tamangur - 5c+ 20m ** 5. Project 8. Supernanny Ingrid - 5c 30m ** 6. Les pirates de Sykati œ 45m 9. Bossa Nova œ 5c 30m ** 1t SL œ 7a 30m 10. Para ti Ursula œ 6a 30m ** 2d SL œ 7c+ 15m 11. Liloh œ 6a 25m * 7. Adini œ 5c 25m 12. Dzodzet Connection œ 5b 13. Jassu Stephanie œ 5c 20m * 14. For Sue œ 5c 25m ** Kastri 15. Kazonis œ 5c/6a+ 13m ** 16. Enchanted Kastle œ 6b/b+ 25m ** 17. Principessa Giulia œ 6c+/7a 24m *** 18. Tower staircase œ 5a 13m * 19. Dragon‘s Lair œ 6c 22m * 4. Hallroom œ 5c 18m ** 5. Mia‘s place œ 6a+ 25m *** 6. King suite œ 7a+ 25m ** 7. Balcony œ 6c 25m *** 9) SKALIA PILLAR . Access: Using the same dirt road for Palace instead of turning left continue upward until a big curve with a small gate to your right and "Skalia Pillar written on the left of the gate in red on. Walk through the gaie and downwards to an olive tree and from there continue for 6) THALASSA (SEA ) another 12 min strait ahead towards a super yellow Access : Five min left of baby house pillar. Routes : Routes: 1. Zestama œ 4c+ 20m 1 . Fakir Plaisir - 6c 35m** 2. Perdica œ 6a+ 15m 2. Razor Edge - 6b 33m** 3. Thalassa œ 6c 30m *** 3. Sea, sun and pain - 7b+ * * 4. Aroma œ 7a 32m ** (13 quickDraws) 4. The orange grove - 7a+ 30m 5. Dysi œ 5c+ 30m *** 5. Kaly Minogue - 6c 33m*** 6. Anatoli œ 5c+ 30m *** 6. Kaly Dream - 6c 33m*** 7. Anemos œ 5c 22m ** 7. Captain Koumantaros - 6c*** 8. Zymoto 6b+ 31m *** 9. Big Merci - 6a+*** 7) BABY HOUSE 10. Telhamas - 5c+*** Access : The following access is used for Palace and baby 11. Mammas Reporter - 5b house. After the village of skalia towards Emborios you meet 12. Video Clip - 5c*** on your left a small church and on the right a dirt road with a 13. Egeo TV - 5c** white pillar at the biginning on it. Followingthe dirt road for 200m turn left. After 50m you meet a gate. Afer 50m more, « Palace » on the right. 3min to the leftis Baby House. (South facing, wall, Overhanging). 10) GHOST KITCHEN (Seaside Kitchen) Routes : Access: l00m before Skalia village a large cliff on the 1. Leda œ 7a 20m *** right. 20min walk from the pillar following the red 2. Saïa œ 6b+ 20m ** marks. (South/southwest facing slab, wall). 3. Ifaistos œ 7a 25m *** Routes: 4. Totta œ 7a 20m *** 1. Joy in the garden - 6a+ 25m 5. Martina œ 7b 20m *** 2. Rigani 90m *** (3 pitches) 6. Silvia Melis œ 6b 25m ** 1t SL - 5c+ 30m 7. Hello baby yoyo œ 5c 30m *** 2d SL - 6c 30m 8. Misplaced childwood œ 6c ** 3d SL - 5c 30m 9. Gickelhamn œ 7a 3. Thribi - 6c 30m 10. Sting œ 6c 4. Achilles - 5c+ 15m 11. Freida œ 6a 5. Sisyphus junior - 7b 20m 12. Estia œ 5c 22m ** 6. Totenhansel - 20m 7a 13. Dimitra œ 6b 25m *** (or 30m 7a+ after the roof) *** 14. Hermes œ 7a 22m *** 7. Remember wadi rum - 25m 6c 15. Pikata œ 5c 18m *** 8. Dafhi - 7a 30m** 16. Pfermos œ 6a 18m *** 8. Elia - 7b+ 30m** 17. Andrea œ 6a 6m 9. Thimari - 7a+ 30m 18. Axel œ 6a+ 6m 10. Myrthe œ 5b 22m 11. Parasitos - 6a+ 18m* 12. Zyklop - 6a 28m*** 13. Persephone - 6b 28m*** 8) PALACE Access : The first part access of Baby House. (South facing with routes on wall, Overhanging and ridge). Routes : 1. Thermos œ 5b 10m ** 2. Room13 œ 7b 18m ** 3. The roof on fire œ 7a+ 18m ** 11) CAVE 10) BLACK FOREST Access: About 100m before Seaside Kitchen 5min Access: 600m after the pilar for Noufaro in the walk from the pillar following the yellow marks. The direction of Emborios. Follow the stone, stone man, name was given because of a cave witch is on the left and the red marcks for 15min. No white Pilar for the of the crag.(Southwest facing). 50m to your left you rnoment. (South facing). will find 6 more routes. Follow the mark to the Routes: "Upper Cave". 1 Dilldabbe - 5c+ 20m Routes: 2. Eieruhr - 5b+ 23m Upper Cave 3. Wunderfitz - 6a 25 m 1. Zicke œ 6b 18m 4. Schneckle mach Dir nid ins Hem - 6c+27m 2. Olympics 776 B.C.- 6a** 5. D' luft isch dusse - 7a 28m 3. Olympics 2004 - 7a 6. Bragele - 6b+ 18m 4. White Snake - 6a+ 7. Schofsackel - 7a 32m 5. Red Monkey œ 7a 8. S‘ Mauselchen - 6b+ 26m 6. White House - 6a 7. Grey Chili - 5c 8. Thyme honey - 5a 11) NENUPHAR Cave Access: After Arginonda about 600m you meet the 9. Legolas - 5c white Pilar for this sector . 10 min maximum walking 10. Pony Luz œ 4b following the red marks (South facing grey slab). 11. Saroman - 7a Routes: 12. Anthi œ 8a 25m *** 1. Kathrin island - 6c 25m 13. Eirini œ 7c+ 20m *** 2. Big back - 5b 18m 14. Florianoulos - 8a ** 3. Samba - 5a 25m 15. Sascha on the road - 7c ** 4. Blues - 5a 23m ** 16. Orea - 6a+ 25m *** 5. Boo-gie - 5b 25m 17. Mathitis - 5a 22m 6. Jive 5b/c 25m 18. Sto kalo 5a 18m 7. Ericstotel œ 6a+ 13m 19. Phidias - 5c 18m** 8. Twist œ 7c 15m 9. Cha Cha - 6b 25m ** 10. Rumba - 6a+ 25m ** 11 Tango - 6b+ 25m 12. Mambo -- 6c 25m 12) GALADANI (Halkiti Cave). 13. Salsa - 6c 25m ** Access: A white pillar about 1,5 km after Arginonda viIlage indicates the beginning of the path to this sector.